Omg. Awesome video man! I just got a V1 and I been stressing about the diff. I just purchased that bracket you showed and a rear bar to minimize the wheel hop and now I'm gonna get that bushing you said and clean the diff up! Thank you for this video!
GREAT explanation. Even a moron like me understood. Looking at a '05 CTS-V, stock everything only 63k miles...I assume the current health of the diff is based on previous owners abuse or lack thereof. Any way to check it? Other than lay under there and look for cracks? Also, the more solid bushing...will that translate into more felt road vibration?
Solve the wheelhop and the differential won't see the high-load spikes that is caused by wheelhop and breaks the Getrag diff. To solve the wheelhop, you have to get axles with a different (i.e. much higher) torsional spring constant to prevent the axle windup and release. I bought DSS axles and installed them on my '05 CTS-V (supercharged with an MP112 Magnuson supercharger and tuned to 472 rwhp) and had zero wheelhop. I could burn tires through 1st gear bouncing off the rev limiter and burn through 2nd gear. No wheelhop. No diff failure.
Question, shouldn’t the 05 CTS-V give more horsepower especially with a supercharger? The car comes with 400 hp so the supercharger only got you approximately 70 something hp. I thought they add 150-200 hp. That’s a lot of $ to spend for a seemingly minimal return. I’m looking into supercharging my V-1 is why I asked the question.
I have two V1 diffs, a Gen2 and a Gen4. Gen2 was making a bit of noise, and I couldnt get a brand new diff (none avail) Settled on a Used Gen4 which makes more noise than my Gen2. There is a lot of play. Any way to tighten it up, or is it garbage? $6000 9" is just too much money.
Obviously then there should have been two front mounting bushings instead of one. Cadillac forgot how to make cars decades ago when they decided they can reinvent the wheel. Of course that cannot be done.
Why tf would they design it that way? Offset the mounting point like that, just seems like a terrible idea, and what are you saving by doing so? Like an inch of incursion into the cabin?
there are a few different things that cause dif failure. this is case failure. you can take that mount peice you made or who ever make it and make it to put a mount on the other side( flip it) and add a mount to the chassie. also get some 3m 5200 poly urethane and inject the voids in the rear mounts and the front mount to add some anti twist to them.. you can also add a "pinion snubber" to the chassis to control wrap up. Gm is and isant at fault with this pos rear end. they are in the fact they bought it from the German company getrag/gkn . it is getrags fault they they built a euro rear end for American usage. we have more hp, we use our hp different than they do. this rear wasent made for drag racing it was made for tooling around Europe in a low torque car. the 2nd issue is the week side cover. it's about 1/3 - 1/4 as thick as it needed to be to control the ring gear deflection.like stated not a issue in europe style driving. many other rearends with side covers like have billet or hd side cover avalible for them to help with ring gear life. some even have brass pucks that are adjustable and positioned in the cover at the pinion location to barley tuch the back side of the ring gear to handle the deflection so the bearings dont have to( they cant) and ring&pinion life are greatly extended. the solstice /sky also have these rearends.and suffer form it. they even changed the mount....well added a 4 bolt side mount to the same side witch also is used on some for the troque link to the trans. they still break, possiably worse. IMHO if you add a pinion snubber to the under side of the car( braced of coarse) and in full slight compressed contact with the top of the diff(rubber or poly should do, but with all those casting ribs either filling them or making a full contact plate that also bolts on would be good but it needs to be ridges and in good contact with as many of the ribs as possiable on the top 1/8" back from the the pinion seal holder flange) you will see much better service life out of this junk greman touring car differential case. If possiable add the bolt on mount to the drivers side and fill the voids in all bushings with poly. filling the voids does not make it noisey. I even fill front suspension compliance bush's and motor mounts. they all much be CLEAN befor filling ad a backup tape or something to keep the poly from running out till it cures(24-48 hours with no movement, also h2o ( water)will make it set off faster so high humidity is good). as for the newer cts diffs with issues...I think they have cheep china bearings in them. the case is stronger for the most part, although the side cover is still shite. it wood bee nice if somebody made some cnc billet 6061t5 side covers , a bolt on billet rear mount ear for the side cover would make it eazer and cheeper.( not somuch wasted aluminum chips for the scrap yard recylcer).I wish I still had cnc machines at my finger tips!!! Im about to put a 3.73 gear in mine. the gears are also horiffic. they need massive deburring. but thats another issue for another tyme. I do wish there was some rebuild info for these rearends that all of you could have axsess to.but there aint.
@@jimwills2094 I havent a clue about the newer stuff, see if there is a car fourm for that car and ask there, they are usualy the first & some of the best sources of info other than a dealer or shop that specializes in them. Ive notlooked under any thing newer than a 09 to even see whats under them.
Its a stronger carrier case ,differential, with a tons if gear ratios. The bad news its it still hangs from the same squirrelly factory subframe in the same terrible mount locations (geometry). Stronger diff, still wheelhops.
I'd just like to rebuild my 06, it's getting a little sloppy and of course it whines. I've got all the CS bushings and I highly recommend them. Does anyone make a kit to freshen these up?
Not a kit, but I believe you can buy the shims to reset your gear lash. This diff is odd though, not something your everyday local car shop will be familiar with.
You’ll never break it that’s for sure. That’s definitely the most rare option out there, not many people have it. I didn’t know they still offered it. The creative steel 8.8 is more popular and you won’t have problems with it either.
@@markwoodruff2329 Good info here. So are all the V generation diffs interchangeable? What years did they change? Were there significant upgrades on the newer ones?
Finally someone actually tries to figure this out for us... geez
This was a real help...the 8.8 is lookin good for me
Great explanation. Thanks
Omg. Awesome video man! I just got a V1 and I been stressing about the diff. I just purchased that bracket you showed and a rear bar to minimize the wheel hop and now I'm gonna get that bushing you said and clean the diff up! Thank you for this video!
mine just melted tonight haha
Good vid bruh
I got rid of that factory junk system & put in A ford iRS 9" with 4:56 gears & A 1 piece drive line & no more problems
great explanation! Is this similar for the ATS model year 2013?
GREAT explanation. Even a moron like me understood. Looking at a '05 CTS-V, stock everything only 63k miles...I assume the current health of the diff is based on previous owners abuse or lack thereof. Any way to check it? Other than lay under there and look for cracks? Also, the more solid bushing...will that translate into more felt road vibration?
Solve the wheelhop and the differential won't see the high-load spikes that is caused by wheelhop and breaks the Getrag diff. To solve the wheelhop, you have to get axles with a different (i.e. much higher) torsional spring constant to prevent the axle windup and release. I bought DSS axles and installed them on my '05 CTS-V (supercharged with an MP112 Magnuson supercharger and tuned to 472 rwhp) and had zero wheelhop. I could burn tires through 1st gear bouncing off the rev limiter and burn through 2nd gear. No wheelhop. No diff failure.
Question, shouldn’t the 05 CTS-V give more horsepower especially with a supercharger?
The car comes with 400 hp so the supercharger only got you approximately 70 something hp.
I thought they add 150-200 hp.
That’s a lot of $ to spend for a seemingly minimal return.
I’m looking into supercharging my V-1 is why I asked the question.
I have two V1 diffs, a Gen2 and a Gen4.
Gen2 was making a bit of noise, and I couldnt get a brand new diff (none avail)
Settled on a Used Gen4 which makes more noise than my Gen2.
There is a lot of play.
Any way to tighten it up, or is it garbage?
$6000 9" is just too much money.
Obviously then there should have been two front mounting bushings instead of one. Cadillac forgot how to make cars decades ago when they decided they can reinvent the wheel. Of course that cannot be done.
So would this be the same diff as my 05 srx my rear diff clicks bad under moderate acceleration
What's a good car like the cts same price range and power?
Who is really at fault, GM or Haldex? Engineers paid to fail.............
Why tf would they design it that way? Offset the mounting point like that, just seems like a terrible idea, and what are you saving by doing so? Like an inch of incursion into the cabin?
Hello, my wife has a CTS 3.6 and we are getting whining from the rear diff. Is it the same as the V?
there are a few different things that cause dif failure. this is case failure. you can take that mount peice you made or who ever make it and make it to put a mount on the other side( flip it) and add a mount to the chassie. also get some 3m 5200 poly urethane and inject the voids in the rear mounts and the front mount to add some anti twist to them.. you can also add a "pinion snubber" to the chassis to control wrap up. Gm is and isant at fault with this pos rear end. they are in the fact they bought it from the German company getrag/gkn . it is getrags fault they they built a euro rear end for American usage. we have more hp, we use our hp different than they do. this rear wasent made for drag racing it was made for tooling around Europe in a low torque car. the 2nd issue is the week side cover. it's about 1/3 - 1/4 as thick as it needed to be to control the ring gear deflection.like stated not a issue in europe style driving. many other rearends with side covers like have billet or hd side cover avalible for them to help with ring gear life. some even have brass pucks that are adjustable and positioned in the cover at the pinion location to barley tuch the back side of the ring gear to handle the deflection so the bearings dont have to( they cant) and ring&pinion life are greatly extended.
the solstice /sky also have these rearends.and suffer form it. they even changed the mount....well added a 4 bolt side mount to the same side witch also is used on some for the troque link to the trans. they still break, possiably worse. IMHO if you add a pinion snubber to the under side of the car( braced of coarse) and in full slight compressed contact with the top of the diff(rubber or poly should do, but with all those casting ribs either filling them or making a full contact plate that also bolts on would be good but it needs to be ridges and in good contact with as many of the ribs as possiable on the top 1/8" back from the the pinion seal holder flange) you will see much better service life out of this junk greman touring car differential case. If possiable add the bolt on mount to the drivers side and fill the voids in all bushings with poly. filling the voids does not make it noisey. I even fill front suspension compliance bush's and motor mounts. they all much be CLEAN befor filling ad a backup tape or something to keep the poly from running out till it cures(24-48 hours with no movement, also h2o ( water)will make it set off faster so high humidity is good).
as for the newer cts diffs with issues...I think they have cheep china bearings in them. the case is stronger for the most part, although the side cover is still shite. it wood bee nice if somebody made some cnc billet 6061t5 side covers , a bolt on billet rear mount ear for the side cover would make it eazer and cheeper.( not somuch wasted aluminum chips for the scrap yard recylcer).I wish I still had cnc machines at my finger tips!!! Im about to put a 3.73 gear in mine. the gears are also horiffic. they need massive deburring. but thats another issue for another tyme. I do wish there was some rebuild info for these rearends that all of you could have axsess to.but there aint.
@@jimwills2094 I havent a clue about the newer stuff, see if there is a car fourm for that car and ask there, they are usualy the first & some of the best sources of info other than a dealer or shop that specializes in them. Ive notlooked under any thing newer than a 09 to even see whats under them.
@@jimwills2094 sounds like the rubber drive shaft joint has let go.
So can you explain a bit about the Ford 8.8 rear 4.10 and how t helps?
Its a stronger carrier case ,differential, with a tons if gear ratios. The bad news its it still hangs from the same squirrelly factory subframe in the same terrible mount locations (geometry). Stronger diff, still wheelhops.
I'd just like to rebuild my 06, it's getting a little sloppy and of course it whines. I've got all the CS bushings and I highly recommend them. Does anyone make a kit to freshen these up?
Not a kit, but I believe you can buy the shims to reset your gear lash. This diff is odd though, not something your everyday local car shop will be familiar with.
Could I weld another bushing mount to the other side?
Yes, and I offer a kit that does exactly that on my site.
@@markwoodruff2329 is the g force 9 inch worth buying
You’ll never break it that’s for sure. That’s definitely the most rare option out there, not many people have it. I didn’t know they still offered it. The creative steel 8.8 is more popular and you won’t have problems with it either.
I have a jerk in My rear-end in my Cadillac cts4 coup what is the problem is it a differential problem
Could be some extra lash as it’s wearing out. Could also be a failed diff bushing.
I need more info on this
Feel free to visit the website!
Do you think an 06+ with the bushing upgrade and brace can be a reliable burnout & drift car?
No. Please don't ruin a badass CTS-V by making it a piece of shit drift car.
That’s a SRX rear differential
What rear differential should I use because I don’t want mine to break
There are 4 generations of the V diff. Get a 3 or 4 and add my diff brace and you’ll be fine!
@@markwoodruff2329 Good info here. So are all the V generation diffs interchangeable? What years did they change? Were there significant upgrades on the newer ones?
Right, they are all interchangeable. Even diffs from an 07-09 SRX by just swapping the driveshaft coupler
Seriously.... it's the same diff as a Pontiac Solstice. Lame...
Add stsv to this video lol
I got rid of that factory junk system & put in A ford iRS 9" with 4:56 gears & A 1 piece drive line & no more problems
Ya 10grand minimum