I was gonna ask if you were from Wisco with that Sconnie accent. But then I saw Monona on your hoodie and read the bio on your page. Always nice seeing some locals on you tube
Lol is the accent that obvious 😂 thanks for the comment I have some cool Wisconsin specific stuff coming. One is a road trip and another is how i titled my bronco with no title.
I’m going to guess that you won’t want it hear it, but if want an engine that will last and run good you better have the that block board . It doesn’t look good to me. I have been in the game for 40 years and yeah you could hone it , clean it and throw it back together and that might be fine for a farm truck or derby car. My opinion is spend a little extra now and have a truck that is reliable and enjoyable for many years. Best of luck which ever way you decide to go!
I don't know what your financial situation is, but I can't believe you would put all that effort into pulling and tearing down that motor, plus seeing how crappy the previous work was done, and NOT have the block bored. Spend a few more hundred bucks and have it bored or machine honed at the very least and put eight new pistons and rings in it. Then you will have a TRUE overhauled engine that will serve you for many years to come. Now if you are just wanting to make it run and maybe put it into something to sell..... I'd say go for it. I in good conscience couldn't do that without disclosing what I found and did to the potential buyer. But that's just me..... Loved the Bronco tune video by the way!
Thanks for the comment. I’m hoping to have a reliable toque motor for a truck I’m building with my dad. I worked a highly specialized railroad job in my 20s and saved all my money. Now I just hang out in my shop with my dad and do welding and farm mechanical work. I have nothing but time.
That's what you call a "Craigslist rebuild" I bet you the feller that put that motor together was proud of his work too. Probably didn't do a proper break in either or reused the old lifters and didn't put them back in the order they came out which would explain the lifter wear. Once a lifter has established a wear pattern with a particular lobe they are "mated" and can't be swapped around or very rapid wear is likely to occur.
I’m completely convinced this motor never ran after the rebuild. I got a message from a previous owner saying he rebuilt it before selling it to the person I bought it from. I wonder how many people have been inside this thing.
@Notafordguy I gotcha. Thought I saw some carbon on some of the piston crowns which led be to believe it had some runtime. Well looks like you get to go through it now, make it right and then you will know what you've got afterwards.
Not sure what this motor is from. I’m having a hell of a time trying to get my feel planted. Pistons are supposed to be .030 over but only measure 4.036 explain that! Then need to be 4.080
Timelapse is a nice touch🤘🏻. 1 vote for Cummins swap haha
I was gonna ask if you were from Wisco with that Sconnie accent. But then I saw Monona on your hoodie and read the bio on your page. Always nice seeing some locals on you tube
Lol is the accent that obvious 😂 thanks for the comment I have some cool Wisconsin specific stuff coming. One is a road trip and another is how i titled my bronco with no title.
I’m going to guess that you won’t want it hear it, but if want an engine that will last and run good you better have the that block board . It doesn’t look good to me. I have been in the game for 40 years and yeah you could hone it , clean it and throw it back together and that might be fine for a farm truck or derby car. My opinion is spend a little extra now and have a truck that is reliable and enjoyable for many years. Best of luck which ever way you decide to go!
I have no problem boring it I just don’t want the walls to thin. I’m reading .040 is still safe
I don't know what your financial situation is, but I can't believe you would put all that effort into pulling and tearing down that motor, plus seeing how crappy the previous work was done, and NOT have the block bored. Spend a few more hundred bucks and have it bored or machine honed at the very least and put eight new pistons and rings in it. Then you will have a TRUE overhauled engine that will serve you for many years to come. Now if you are just wanting to make it run and maybe put it into something to sell..... I'd say go for it. I in good conscience couldn't do that without disclosing what I found and did to the potential buyer. But that's just me..... Loved the Bronco tune video by the way!
Thanks for the comment. I’m hoping to have a reliable toque motor for a truck I’m building with my dad. I worked a highly specialized railroad job in my 20s and saved all my money. Now I just hang out in my shop with my dad and do welding and farm mechanical work. I have nothing but time.
That's what you call a "Craigslist rebuild" I bet you the feller that put that motor together was proud of his work too.
Probably didn't do a proper break in either or reused the old lifters and didn't put them back in the order they came out which would explain the lifter wear. Once a lifter has established a wear pattern with a particular lobe they are "mated" and can't be swapped around or very rapid wear is likely to occur.
I’m completely convinced this motor never ran after the rebuild. I got a message from a previous owner saying he rebuilt it before selling it to the person I bought it from. I wonder how many people have been inside this thing.
@Notafordguy I gotcha. Thought I saw some carbon on some of the piston crowns which led be to believe it had some runtime. Well looks like you get to go through it now, make it right and then you will know what you've got afterwards.
that is an old fe trick to bloch the heat risers, those look like 360 heads.
It’s my understanding that 360 and 390 are the exact same except the crank. Is that the case?
Send it out for machining or get another engine.
I’m thinking .040 over should do the trick
the heads on my 72 390 and my dads 73 360 both f250s were definetly different my 390 had intake ports that almost fit the ports
Not sure what this motor is from. I’m having a hell of a time trying to get my feel planted. Pistons are supposed to be .030 over but only measure 4.036 explain that! Then need to be 4.080