Відео

And how will the parking brake work?

What’s the up date ?lol im about to do the same thing

But did you measure the venturi size. 1.14 area, but mine is 1.21, and it's also the Chinese carb, but I got mine from a truck shop on Long Island for $85, a couple years ago. And the 2150 rebuild kit fits it too. I was surprised to see them on Amazon.

I fixed a '76 F150 about 20 years ago. The front tires pigeon-toed terribly after a 4" lift. I used the steering link from '79 Bronco along with a drop pitman arm. 36x14.50 Super Swampers needed the dual stabilizer for control.

Where did you get those and can I still use my 4 wheel drive with those adapters

The dual shock front is to lessen wheel hop.

Got one off Amazon today, needed it to help with a troublesome motorcycle tire. Mine must’ve been an upgrade model. Only part I needed to attach was the black part and the gauge reads in psi. Maybe not the best thing out there but good enough for what I will need to do with it.

Good video I had mine together and just wanted to see what you thought of those stupid things on the front I scraped mine to

My 74 AMC Matador OEM carb is a 2150. I bought this carb for it. Only issue was the trans kick down is different. Otherwise found it a great deal.

I’m about to tackle the project myself for my food trailer converting from those mechanical brakes style to a electronic system. I would love to message to see if you can help me out, man!

Awesome job!

Autolite carb jets are different from Holley jets (the Holley jets won't thread in). You can get Autolite jets from Mike's Carburetors, along with a brass float and other carb parts/kits).

Just put one of these on a 400 in my 71 galaxie 500 2drHT, its overflowing pretty bad. Motor only has 17k on it and before it started overflowing it seemed to be running great

I’m from Northern Illinois. I would like to do some of these trails. Can you drop a link? What app did you use to track it?

Ope time for a new one

I just got one of these on eBay and the one I got is of better quality. Gauge is in psi. Came mostly assembled. Sticker makes sense. I’m having trouble making it work on riding mower sized tires. Keeps blasting them across my yard. I’ll get the hang of it one day. Just subscribed!

parts,right...anyone see coilsprings 7700 lbs or greater

Question is, how well does it launch a potato ;)

Beautiful Bronco

I recently used the same product to get the the seats started on Bridgestone Pillow Diameter tractor tires which are a ROYAL PAIN IN arse . Worked just like you showed.

Yep... Controversy! I love the dual shocks! Added them to my 1979 Bronco back in the early 90's and never looked back! Back then I built a good strong 460, so my engine was heavier. I love a good stiff ride and it does handle better! I also love the steering stabilizer! It absolutely helps! With that said I still learned a few things watching your episode, never knew that about the door seals! way to go Jr., keep up the good work!

Hi I have questions I did exactly like this but when I connected the wire from the brake, 1 is ground, the other one I connected to the red color in the junction box but every time when I make the left signal automatically the brake activated only on left turn signal and I changed the position and the brake not working just only work when I connected to red color can you explain why is that problem or any idea to fix the issue Other than that the lights work perfectly

Cool video, the old Fords are definitely worth fixing up.

I expected to hear about the steering design. I switched to the '78-9 design components immediately and recommend everyone does it.

Sorry to pop your bubble but all of the gripes you have about your truck come with the territory of owning an old truck. If you want turnkey ready, go, buy a new truck. After growing up in a body shop building and restoring classic cars, I have come to the conclusion that they should have a $100 bill slot on the dash. Every time you start it up, it needs $100 for something!! Nowadays with inflation, that's $250.

Hey, just found your channel. I have a 1980 302 with a C6 transmission. It shifts ok. I have added 3 packs of instant shudder fix and the tranny still shudders...in park, in neutral, in drive...at certain rpms. At some rpms it doesn't shudder. Do you think it could be the flex plate or torque converter...or something internal? I can remove the tranny and replace those two things, but hate to go through the headache and find out it is internal. I have read that sometimes when matching up tranny's and engines the wrong flex plate could be used and that would cause a vibration. I bought this used of course and the engine and trans are both transplants and I don't know any history. Thanks

good thing you used ear protection 😅😅😅

You just made me changed my mind from using the 5-pin to the 7-pin plug. Thanks for putting up the time to create this informative video, I really like it.

Which time knew what those two pieces of metal with the screws hanging out of them was for am I supposed to hang something on them or throw them away? Any help would be appreciated..

I put one on a 79 351m. Idled great. Ran like crap. Found it has 48 jets. My original carb has 54. Can't swap them because the threads are different. Thanks, China. Can't find 54 jets in 5/16-24 thread. Had to leave it alone. The biggest problem though was that float setting was WAAAAY low. Super low. I bent it up to roughly match the setting on the original and it runs fairly well. Still not right but driveable. I would NOT buy one of these again. Re-jetting is impossible.

How's it holding up in a quarter mile

Earlier grill? Looks good man

90% of the stuff you're complaining about is expectations, you act like you expect it to drive like a new car. It's not going to drive like a new car it's an old truck. While the add-on power steering system that they used on the 4x4 is up until 77 1/2 did suck just about everything else you've complained about is almost irrelevant. And as far as the hood hinges go your hood hinges are not adjusted correctly. It is a rather painstaking task to get them adjusted properly but that's all that needs to be done. Raising up the radiator support to raise up the front clip won't line up the rear with the cab it'll just make the whole hood sit up too high, loosen all three bolts on the side of the hinge and bring the whole thing down until the hood closes correctly when you shut it.

I bought one that is 10 gallon and it has so much power that I can barely stay up when I use it haha

Burnt hair sooooo sad

🎉🎉❤❤ love your Bronco videos, me n my wife here in Kansas, have a 78 n hers 79, on your Bronco what ,wheel spacer Ford 5 on 5 log to Chevy 8 lug conversion. did you use.?? JASON, WICHITA, KS

Do you know where to get the right starter bolts for this motor?

Hey, I would love to see more content about your dentside. Especially the door seals.

Just wired up my 28 foot sxs trailer. I used 2 junction boxes. One up front and one in the back.. tied all the rear lights in the rear box them ran main wires up to the front box. Front box I ran my electric brakes and my front 4 amber lights and breakaway into it.

Have had my fair share of old fords. If its got close to 100,000 miles, a new timing chain and gearset will generally make them more happy also. Double roller more better. Not hard to install at all. Stock they have nylon gears, no bueno

Nice!

It would have been nice to have a map shown with the sections of the trail you traversed

So ii bought one for my 2.8 liter v6 and I could not get it to come off 1500 rpms you have any ideas

THREE POINTS: 1. Actually, $10,000 is a good and fair price for the F150 you purchased. The 1973 - 1979 Ford "Dent Side" trucks including the second generation 1978 - 1979 Broncos sell for $40,000 - $65,000 plus in very good to excellent condition at all of the popular online sources. 2. @ 4:54 - Those appear to be Rancho (not Ranchero) 5000 series shocks. Definitely do not appear to be the Rancho 9000 series (I've had Rancho 9000 shocks)...don't see the small red adjustment knob. Furthermore, virtually all OEM shocks are junk compared to aftermarket shocks with one notable exception on new GM trucks...the Multimatic DSSV shocks (aka - dampers). However, for a long list of reasons, I would not own a Chevrolet or GMC 4WD truck newer than 1972. Not a fan of GM "Square Body" trucks and starting in 1988, GM went with IFS Axle and "low hanging" frame rails...not good on a Class 2 (2500) or Class 3 (3500) 4WD truck. IFS Axle is not as strong and trouble free as a Dana 60 Solid Front Axle...and low hanging frame rails greatly reduce the "Breakover Angle" which can and does cause the Chevrolet and GMC 4WD trucks to "high center" a small rounded knolls off-road...quite a sight to see....both hilarious and pathetic at the same time! 3. Parts Replacement comes with buying older trucks. It is hardly ever one part that fixes a particular problem on 40 to 60 year old trucks. It costs money to fix these trucks up correctly.....using NEW OEM parts in combination with some better quality aftermarket parts. LMC Truck out of Kansas City MO (Go Chiefs...ha!) is an excellent source for original OEM parts.

Built mine out of a 20 lb propane tank and 3/4 valve and pipe with a Fill coupler on a 1/4 line reduced from a 3/4 T in front of the valve. Works great. My UA-cam channel.

i need that torque converter do you have the part #?

$10,000!?!? I must be sitting on a gold mine with my '78!😂 these things were $4,000-5,000 new. For what you paid, it should have new paint...or run.

Hi man I,m the uk and have a 1978 f150 ranger...man do I love it

Bam!! 💥

Good video man, I have a 10" lifted lb7 I'm a fabricator and was just going to make one but when i drew it all up and priced the metal it was already $300 plus my labor so i been looking at getting one of these and making it better. I think i might chance it and get one of these at only $150