Class #10 - How to Remove a Walked Inner Race Without Damaging the Mainshaft
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Calling all BAKER Gearheads!
Class 10 is learning how to properly remove a walked inner race without damaging the mainshaft or any other component.
For any further questions please refer to your factory service manual or give us a call at 517-339-3835.
www.bakerdrivetrain.com
This saved me a lot of headaches. Once I opened up the gap and got the tool on the face came right off. This should be a note in the service manual.
Harley-Davidson does not want you to know that so that that way you can take it into the steelership and have them work on it. That's why it's not in the manual
Just the video I needed to install my race. Great job. Thanks
after you get that race off... don't install another one. Use the JIMMS primary bearing upgrade that takes the place of the race.
Using a die grinder, began to grind out a wide groove lengthwise to the the race, not all the way through, just enough to weaken it. Simply took a dull wide chisel and hit it with a 10 oz. hammer and the race split down it's length. Slipped right off, not difficult at all. Just take your time and go slow.
But isn’t that procedure side loading the bearing?
There's an easier way, Get a bearing splitter, Weld it to the old race, disconnect the battery 1st, the same tool you use for the puller you can use with the snap on bearing splitter, You don't need a lot of weld, just a couple tacks, I use the same splitter, i just knock the old race out,grind out the weld, and reuse
I wouldn't recommend to ANYONE out there to take s chisel and split it into two pieces for removal purposes. There are bearings on both sides of the transmission and will then become damaged as a result of the blow. Most hammer mechanics fail to get the proper tools which is all you need to do the job right the first time.
Spot on chap. Nice tip.
Split-coller same ID as bushing OD. Give a light sandblast to the coller ID. Slip-it over the bushing, crank-it down. Add a little heat to the bushing then use a conventional 2- jaw puller to remove.
IMHO cut that race a little over half way through at an angle and it will break like glass with a chisel , use the time saved not removing the exhaust, side cover and lid to put it all back together.
yep i have done this many times. works every time...
Hitting the mainshaft with the mallet doesn't do any damage to the side door bearing? The Harley factory service manual says to always replace the side door bearings if the shaft is pressed out. Hitting the shaft with a mallet to slightly move the shaft is ok?
What does the race do specifically.. when it goes bad..will it cause a leak?
Great video. Now instead of taking the transmission apart, can’t I put the pulley back on and install the tire so with the belt in place and the bike in gear, the main shaft won’t turn? I can then go to the other side, remove the clutch cable cover and do that procedure you’re showing us to bring the main shaft forward in order to expose the other side of the race. Am I on the right track? Thanks
What is the Part Number for the REMOVAL Tool ?
What about the RE-INSTALLATION Tool ? Part Number
Availability ?
Thanks
COOP
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pb blaster with heat works well
Swapped mine over to the sealed bearing got rid of that race roller bearing bs and big time difference. I got the tool to take it offand when i put the tool on and hit it with the rachet the whole shi bang just fell off. It was just barely on the shaft. Which is why i was losing so much oil. Can't send a pic here or i would.
Cant believe how easy it moved over with a small tap like that .. i have a bike and it wont move at all.. any ideas ?
How close should the race be next to the seal once you install a new one?
1/8 of an inch
nice !!!
That's how I've done it for 25+ years.
1994 Dyna 5th gear needle bearing has walked forward How do i push back to fit New 5th gear mainshaft oil seal ?
what is the proper position wen installing new inner race
There are about 10 easier & faster ways to get that done ,all from the same side.
ok great... so list a couple. I love these assholes that criticize but don't offer anything.
Ate there any symptoms of a bad mainshaft race?
@baker drivetrain I would like to know what I’m supposed to do after I’ve moved the shaft over and removed the race? What I mean is how do I move the shaft back over after race removal? Like my clutch basket is riding my primary cover hard so this is the third time im taking jt apart in the last couple weeks
Did you tighten the nut back up after you removed the race? If not that could cause that problem and definitely others.
and replace with the 1 piece bearing
BTW it's quite easy to cut the race PROPERLY if you're patient. I mask the other parts with plastic and painters tape to prevent abrasive dust intrusion then instead of just hacking like a dumbass I use a SMALL diameter fiber reinforced Dremel style cutting disk to make two shallow cuts about 180 degrees apart but NOT all the way through the race, and placed so I can start a SHARP NARROW cold chisel. Then it's easy to release the race.
The other way if you have a proper oxy-acetylene torch with a small tip (forget common propane torches, you want a NARROW flame you can focus, every mechanic should have an OA torch and the small oufits are fine) is to heat the race not the shaft and the factory puller or other correct style puller (if you're not familiar with proper puller use STUDY a bit instead of thinking it's all obvious because it's not) will free it easily. I replace the silly stock design with a Baker or Jims bearing. DO NOT FORGET YOUR QUAD SEAL ETC and take your time.
Doesn't work on 6 speed
Just quick heat it with a torch and just slide it off🤦♂️