i chanced upon this video when the small punch pin between the gas block and gas tube fell off , from a newly purchased mws mk18. your video save my life.
It’s a robust design to remove any barrel wobble or the barrel being off Center. It’s the age old problem if you use loctite people complain it’s hard to remove, if you don’t people complain that it wobbles and is loose through use. Both ways Marui loses.
so my mk18 - the front handguard has come ever so loose from the upper receiver? Only by a MM or so but its annoying. so I need to go through all of this including the tool to tighten it up? Thanks.
If youre having any slight movement such as twist to right or left, you would have to tighten the barrel nut. While trying to remove the damn flash hider, I ended up sightly loosening it as a result.
The factory flash hider on my tm mk18 is stuck on solid. I’ve completely ruined it from trying to pry it off with pliers - which is fine since I’m trying to change it out. Any tips on removing it?
If I wanted to change the handrail to say an URG-I, would it just be a case of removing handrail and longer outer barrel? I ask this because I’m going to get a Tm mk18 first time a gbbr and just in case I wish to change in the future, how easy/compatible is it with other handrails? TIA
once the barrel nut that is shown in the video is lose its just about to pull of the outerbarrel then you have access to the inner barrel there is no other way around then going through this process
@@jaypark5788 yes. Though you’ll need a large wrench or 26mm spanner to get on to it. Or drill through and fix a long rod to get purchase on it. Then use lots of heat. I did one the other day and tried just the m&p tool and no heat. It doesn’t work. You’d need to get very lucky with the amount of lock tight used. So use heat. And I really don’t like to put any more than a gentle tap on it. If it doesn’t come off, do more heat.
Technically they are correct there’s several versions and the one I got (from firesupport) needed the notches modding so they are smaller to fit the ring. FYI it’s not something I’ve attempted to source nowadays I’ve had the tool since removing a recce rifle rail years ago. G&p may not even make it anymore, and Firesupport has always been the best source for g&p since when time began. Failing that a machine shop like lcs engineering out post on Facebook will be able to make you one on request.
@@Eagle6Airsoft I got my g&p urx tool this morning, 20-30mins with a file and it fits fine 😎👍. Gunna get my heat gun out and give it a blast tomorrow I take it a “c” spanner (+heat) should sort the lower nut
@@ivanhartley4378 nice, glad you got it and are on the right track. You maybe find the nut comes off with both attached or separate, see how it goes, but certainly for refitting any c spanner / wrench tool + loctite for refitting
@@Eagle6Airsoft yeah I have some loctite m222 at home (medium strength thread lock, it should hold no probs .... and will be way easier to get off lol) just out of interest any idea of the temp you had to get up to? I went as far as 350 degrees on my heat gun last time (no idea of the rail temp etc) .... might have to stick my thermal camera on it see how hot I have to go!
And here's me thinking it would be any sort of a practical design. Owning a real Mk18, this thing just disgusts me. Is is more trouble than the real thing.
For real steel purpose I would agree but it’s airsoft and thus doesn’t need the perfect “alignment” Sorry I’m just ranting because of of how annoying this was to disassemble
![[MadDog] MK18 Conversion kit[For Tokyo Marui MWS M4 GBB Series][BLK]](/img/n.gif)
i chanced upon this video when the small punch pin between the gas block and gas tube fell off , from a newly purchased mws mk18. your video save my life.
why did Marui make it so hardy to unscrew the lock in the first place?
It’s a robust design to remove any barrel wobble or the barrel being off Center. It’s the age old problem if you use loctite people complain it’s hard to remove, if you don’t people complain that it wobbles and is loose through use. Both ways Marui loses.
so my mk18 - the front handguard has come ever so loose from the upper receiver? Only by a MM or so but its annoying.
so I need to go through all of this including the tool to tighten it up?
Thanks.
If youre having any slight movement such as twist to right or left, you would have to tighten the barrel nut. While trying to remove the damn flash hider, I ended up sightly loosening it as a result.
The factory flash hider on my tm mk18 is stuck on solid. I’ve completely ruined it from trying to pry it off with pliers - which is fine since I’m trying to change it out. Any tips on removing it?
Undo the grub screw. If that’s out then heat.
If I wanted to change the handrail to say an URG-I, would it just be a case of removing handrail and longer outer barrel?
I ask this because I’m going to get a Tm mk18 first time a gbbr and just in case I wish to change in the future, how easy/compatible is it with other handrails? TIA
Apparently you can use the mk18 inner barrel on a urgi, I am on aeg tho mate
@@alfiew9220 Ok thanks for the info 👍
Could you do another complete disassembly video
Have you discovered how to do it simply and effectively?
It’s just about getting it hot enough really.
put the order in on this tool today, no weapon vice but a strong brother whos up for holding the gun with a rag while i do it lol
How to change the inner barrel ?
once the barrel nut that is shown in the video is lose its just about to pull of the outerbarrel then you have access to the inner barrel there is no other way around then going through this process
What is the name of the cylindrical tool?
G&p urx tool or the m&p 15 tool
TACTICOOL22 - M&P 15-22 BARREL NUT WRENCH this??
@@jaypark5788 yes. Though you’ll need a large wrench or 26mm spanner to get on to it. Or drill through and fix a long rod to get purchase on it. Then use lots of heat. I did one the other day and tried just the m&p tool and no heat. It doesn’t work. You’d need to get very lucky with the amount of lock tight used. So use heat. And I really don’t like to put any more than a gentle tap on it. If it doesn’t come off, do more heat.
@@Eagle6Airsoft It really helped a lot. Thank you very much
@@jaypark5788 thanks for hunting this down. Ive been searching for this tool! Did you have any luck/success removing the barrel castle nut?
What a Hero
Thank you 🙏
is this the guns modfy mk18?
Is tokio
the g and p urx rail tool, i was told that it dosent fit by fire support!!!!
Technically they are correct there’s several versions and the one I got (from firesupport) needed the notches modding so they are smaller to fit the ring.
FYI it’s not something I’ve attempted to source nowadays I’ve had the tool since removing a recce rifle rail years ago. G&p may not even make it anymore, and Firesupport has always been the best source for g&p since when time began.
Failing that a machine shop like lcs engineering out post on Facebook will be able to make you one on request.
@@Eagle6Airsoft I got my g&p urx tool this morning, 20-30mins with a file and it fits fine 😎👍. Gunna get my heat gun out and give it a blast tomorrow
I take it a “c” spanner (+heat) should sort the lower nut
@@ivanhartley4378 nice, glad you got it and are on the right track.
You maybe find the nut comes off with both attached or separate, see how it goes, but certainly for refitting any c spanner / wrench tool + loctite for refitting
@@Eagle6Airsoft yeah I have some loctite m222 at home (medium strength thread lock, it should hold no probs .... and will be way easier to get off lol)
just out of interest any idea of the temp you had to get up to? I went as far as 350 degrees on my heat gun last time (no idea of the rail temp etc) .... might have to stick my thermal camera on it see how hot I have to go!
And here's me thinking it would be any sort of a practical design. Owning a real Mk18, this thing just disgusts me. Is is more trouble than the real thing.
It provides probably the straightest free float barrel alignments I have ever seen. It has its positives.
For real steel purpose I would agree but it’s airsoft and thus doesn’t need the perfect “alignment”
Sorry I’m just ranting because of of how annoying this was to disassemble
lol gasblock jut slide off, took a hammer to it and it never even budged….. took out the 2 screws and everything