My friend asked me how much I have spent on my layout (including locomotives, cars etc) a few months ago in front of my wife. I estimated about $50,000, she very quickly said try $100,000. I scoffed and started to add it up and realised she was closer to the mark. It is over 13 years though. It starts getting expensive when you add in a working car system, tortoise controlled points and locos with sounds! I am just lucky my wife builds and details structures and helps with scenery.
Lots of people say model railroading is expensive, but $1000-1200 is not much considering other hobbies. If you're into woodworking for instance, like I am, you can spend thousands on your power tools and as we know, wood isn't cheap anymore either. But in model railroading there are ways to do it on a budget by buying used track, buildings, locos and rolling stock, avoiding the overpriced Woodland Scenics products (there are lots of cheaper alternatives) and scratch building where you can.
I don’t use Canadian dollars when figuring out what I spend. For me it all converts into one layout. I’ve spent one layout’s worth. And no matter how much I spend it still adds up to one layout.
I couldn’t believe how much I spent on my first layout, close to $10,000! I never even finished it and had to tear it down to move across the country. I’ll probably need to spend another $1,000 to get all set up again in a different configuration. This includes locos and rolling stock in N scale.
5:41. I’ve had two locomotives from starter sets do this. Both times it was the motor, where the brushes touch the stator a gap had opened up causing an arc that scorched the stator and that residue was preventing the stator from getting power. So I scrubbed the stator clean, reset the brushes and off it went. If that sounds tedious, then the actual work was about twice as hard. Although I work on watches so I’m used to it
I've got a small 2.5'x4' layout in N scale. It's got two loops of track side by side, made totally with flex track. The only other track were the turnouts, of which I used 8. These were all peco code 55 electro frog. The little things make up a decent chunk. The wire terminals where I hooked up all my feeder wires, the actual wires that went to the controller stuff (at first I was DC and then I went DCC). I also got some feeder wires. I got a new, thinner thing of solder, plus flux paste, heat shrink tubing. I already had most of the tools to do everything, but if you had to buy a soldering iron or a saw, or screwdrivers or all that stuff, it can add up. I had never used caulk at my own home, so I needed the dispenser alongside the actual caulk. I ended up using a couple layers of pink insulation foam, which was around $50. Gorilla glue to get it all stuck together. I used hardboard as the base and around the fascia area. I bought a Stanley Surfoam (?) tool to cut the mountain and places where the ground drops down below. I used woodland scenics foam roadbed, had to buy 2 of them because I ALMOST had enough. A couple bags of ballast, all the glue to spread the ballast and grass. I ended up getting a static grass applicator just because. I've purchased 3 structure kits from Walthers. Then there's the bit of ground foam as well. I'm going for a fall look, so that's a number of fall colors to have some variety. It can skyrocket pretty quickly.
Nice one Jimmy but I think you provided the costs for the benefit of the better halves. Signals, street lighting, wiring and electronics spring to mind. Lumber and the details around that also do not come for free. Having bought a starter set for 245€ a couple of years ago I estimate I have spent about double what you have done and my layout is nowhere near finished. In terms of costs I have made the assumption that 1€ is about the same as $1.
Including a few unassembled structure kits, I've probably put roughly $1200 into my 1' x 6' switching layout. I also use Unitrack, but I went with #4 turnouts. As Jimmy mentions in the video, they cost a little more than the #6 turnouts. I bought more of them than I initially needed, and the final version of this layout has two fewer than the original plan (those came out because I decided to reconfigure a couple things). Now I'm planning a new layout, which will reuse most of the track I already have along with the existing benchwork. I will have to buy a few more pieces of track since it will run along two walls instead of one, but I estimate that at less than $100. I'm figuring probably another $100-200 to build the additional benchwork. But don't ask me what I've been spending acquiring new rolling stock, of which I have purchased a lot this year!
Hey Jimmy, Ever tried doing removal weathering? It's a very specific technique I learned using water mixable oil paints thinned down to create a base wash, then taking a few other brushes with water to then remove some of it leaving a residue, and creating the natural rain streaks and dust and rust build up like real trains tend to look. Looks great on some Steam locomotives. I'd like to see what you can do with this and show it to the model railroading community. (I will state that it can't be done in a day, it's definitely a week long project due to the dry time of the weathering) This is for HO Scale mainly.
I have over 70 Peco switches on my current layout which is coming down soon to start a new prototype layout, just bought another box of atlas code 80 and another 60 plus switches. I don’t even bother to try and figure it anymore, just buy what you can when you can and enjoy it.
Regarding dust: (1) A very soft bristle fan brush - say, size 10 - can be used to clean dust (and spiderwebs!) off of delicate parts, including trees and scenery. (2) Woodland Scenics makes a product called a Dust Dabber, which is a green gel. Pinch off a bead about the size of a hazelnut (it feels really gross!) and roll it across hard surfaces like sidewalks, rooftops, rolling stock, etc. (3) Finally, several manufacturers offer model vacuums - these are smaller and have less suction; but use carefully!
Thanks for the Answer to my question. I was watching the Podcast with Grant Eastman this morning. (Saw your channel name come up) Honestly I'm seriously wanting to 3d print my own rolling stock and start making some engines. Due to the era and location I want to model, trying to find that stuff in N scale is really hard. Also with what they ended up saying near the end about the unboxer modellers really got to me.
I built my layout many years And I bought all the track and switches at the same time it's a 4 by 6 plan at the time it cost me 360 bucks. If I built it today 1300 to 1500 It has 27 switches 4 and 6's and the track is box track. I didn't use flex at the time. It's all Atlas. The trains and building came one at a time. Speaking of Dcc-Ex the new motor shield is really excellent , I can run quiet a few trains. But I still fall back on DC. I buy most of my trains used found a couple of places I Ilike.
I am finally starting my layout, and track is so expensive. But like any hobby, if you really enjoy it. Cost shouldn't be a factor. I scratch build a lot of structures, and find used locomotives and repair them. Great show. Thanks
Let's say that you are a retiree on a fixed income, and you want to start an 8x4 layout. What purchasing steps would you take if you could only buy equipment (pieces for layout - track, buildings, etc.) once a month?
On a locomotive not working: attend a NMRA division meeting. You’ll almost certainly encounter people who can at least diagnose the issue and maybe even fix it. Membership will provide continuing (reciprocating) support no matter your level.
Best way to keep layout clean is if in basement , put something on the cieling. Dust comes down everytime someone walks upstairs. A drop cieling is the easyist. DO CIELING BEFORE LAYOUT FIRST. , just believe me , dont ask why.🥴
Concerning the "motor wont go" question... I'm a little late commenting but... I often have the problem where the lights turn on but the motor does not run. For me it is a consisting issue. I make my consists using NCE which automatically assigns the consist address. However if I delete the consist from NCE the loco will never move because it will never see the consist that was programmed. Some functions like the lights will respond either to the consist address or the loco address. However the motor will only respond to the consist address, which never comes. Tony
If you are going to do a video about boosters, you should also consider covering power districts and electronic breakers. Particularly for multi-user layouts, and troubleshooting, power districts and breakers are a must, so that one wiring error or equipment fouling a switch doesn't shut the whole layout down. Also this can prevent a big booster from doing things like melting loco trucks if they foul a turnout (ask me how I know). If you are using DCC for accessories (like controlling turnouts) they should be on their own bus and power district, so that if something shorts the layou, they will still be operable.
Another Question... will you do a Video on not just the affordable camera options, but of all the cameras you use for your videos! Would be awesome to get another perspective of video equipment.
On locos not working: I concur, it's probably a motor connection. Depending on what it is, you might need to solder a connection or reseat the decoder. I was having issues with a couple of mine glitching, soldered connections on one and was off to the races.
Could be worse - you could be spending that money on a race car! I know a fellow who races with Sports Car Club of America who, when asked what he spent on racing, answered, "I've been lying to my wife for so long about how much I spend that I'm not sure anymore."
A guy who owned the club layout (HO) had a huge roundhouse full of brass steamers. AC-9,10,11 and 12 GS-3 and other assorted SP steamers the whole point of the roundhouse was to hide his locomotives from his wife. I had been going there since the early 90s. I found this out recently after talking to other club members. To put this into perspective. His layout was built first and the house was put on top of it. He was one of the big names in model railroading in the country. He was a dealer for Athern and Walthers. He also sold alot of brass Locomotives. The thing that disappointed me the most was returning to NZ after 21 years in the UK. And his layout is now the club layout. Many buildings are missing and all the steamers have gone. His AC-9 is somewhere in the US.
Noooo... never contemplate that question too hard! LOL!! Also why buying second-hand layouts can be tremendously cost effective I might add. I bought my club's old N scale exhibition layout for $AU1500... would likely cost $AU25k to build.
"Never ask the queston of how much it cost!!!!" is a good rule, the cost is just part of having any hobby, model railroading is much less than any hobby. It all about how much pleasure you get out of it. 😂
How much did your layout cost? This is a pretty open-ended question, and I suspect that a complete accounting would stun us all. I started my most recent layout in early 2018, and I estimate that, since then, I have spent almost $20k on lumber, locomotives, rolling stock, kits, scenery materials, electronics, parts, tools, paint, supplies, etc. That ignores money I had already spent prior to 2018 (but it includes money I spent on a lot of so far unassembled kits and unused detail parts, decals, and scratch building supplies.) But when you express it as $370 a month, it doesn't sound nearly as bad! Regarding structures that you build yourself (or 3D print yourself), there is still expense: raw materials, details, paint, decals, and - if you're 3D printing - amortization of capital. In your case, Jimmy, perhaps you've made more from your Etsy store than you've spent on 3D printers and raw materials, in which case you're entitled to a free pass on your own buildings.
I’m somewhat new to your channel, having only subscribed recently. Maybe I haven’t seen enough of your videos but I don’t see that any of your rolling stock or engines are weathered (at least not in this video). Is this something you prefer not to do? Thank you! Great content and presentation!
Sadly here in NZ prices aren't cheap. Everything is imported. And the community here just isn't what it was in the 90s. The demise of model shops really hasn't helped much either. Recently I got the DPM 13 building kit. To get direct from WS was going to be over $500NZD but there was a site here selling it for $425 odd thing is they still shipped from the US... and it was far cheaper. As far as Kato I would rather just buy directly from Japan. I got stung with a Californina Zephyr set. It was meant to be new .. but ended up having a warped axle and melted truck. At a guess it was run on a DCC layout and derailed on a turnout. I have tried to find the replacement part from Kato but they are apparently renovating their website.
I have Ho and track. I plan to make a sand mine and cement plant. I will be using real play sand and cement dust. Any issues i need to be concerned with. Mine will be DC
Can we get the drawing file for your layout, I believe you are using Train Software. I love your layout and about the size I need, will be building in a bedroom.
A question on ballasting. I use Kato Unitrack like you, and you show how to ballast it. However, you and others only show how they ballast straight and curved track. How do you ballast the Kato turnouts? I had one I had to completely rip apart to get it to work again.
Cost is relative to interest. If I was to place specific dollar figures on values, I would probably scare myself. Some l9cos and rolling stock were bought new, some bought used, some acquired through gift and trade, how do you value that? Then add track, buildings, layout lumber, wiring.... the list goes on. Then add true real estate, for some, it is in your garden, others have garage space or a portion of a basement or bedroom. Add the cost to finish a room. I built walls, wiring, drywall, paint flooring etc. And we never truly "finish" a layout, tinkering, adjusting, adding. Value or cost is in the eye of the beholder or the user. Time invested cannot be measured. So what is the cost? Ask my estate on the day it has to be disposed of - then you will find your cost or value.😢
Can you program an address to a loco on the mainline? or does it have to be on a programming track? I have a DCS52 Digitrax system. I am trying to add an address for a Bachmann loco. Thanks Jimmy.
Two notes - 1) Cost per hour of enjoyment in bench building, wiring, figuring, modeling, programming, painting, socializing, running, operating trains = Cheap Entertainment. 2) I don't hide from my wife, we share our lives & hobbies, "in sickness and health" ❤.
My layout is 27 years old. When I amortize my investment over that period of time I consider it reasonable. The enjoyment I have experienced and knowledge gained is priceless. I’m at the point where I don’t need much so I enjoy scratch building and detailing. Sometimes I drool a little over new rolling stock and DCC releases but I don’t need them. Happy to pick up the odd train show bargain. I also try to support my local hobby and train stores when I can. @modelrailroader56 It’s a fantastic hobby!!!🤩 Thanks for sharing,Jimmy.
You kind of have to compare it to other hobbies. It's not all that terrible in comparison. Now, if you JUST don't have the money, there are other ways and things would end up more simple, but little by little surely is the way to go if you can't just drop it all at once.
I haven't watched this video yet, but right off I'm going tell you that you've broken one of the most sacred rules of men: never, NEVER! disclose how much your hobby actually costs. My gawd, what if my wife stumbles on this video and starts asking questions?
Fails to mention power packs, DCC , wiring , lumber, paint, adhesives , ground cover, ballast. His estimate is way low. His wife must watch his videos.
Please be careful with plastic covering, if it's a moist area or high humidity the plastic will draw moisture. Have know this since Boy Scouts 1958. On survival camping we would make solar stiles to collect water that's drinkable. So using plastic is a ify. Hate see corrosion set in on someone's layout.
A sock over the end of a vacuum nozzle works great for cleaning dust without sucking up bits of layout lol
My friend asked me how much I have spent on my layout (including locomotives, cars etc) a few months ago in front of my wife. I estimated about $50,000, she very quickly said try $100,000. I scoffed and started to add it up and realised she was closer to the mark. It is over 13 years though. It starts getting expensive when you add in a working car system, tortoise controlled points and locos with sounds! I am just lucky my wife builds and details structures and helps with scenery.
Lots of people say model railroading is expensive, but $1000-1200 is not much considering other hobbies. If you're into woodworking for instance, like I am, you can spend thousands on your power tools and as we know, wood isn't cheap anymore either. But in model railroading there are ways to do it on a budget by buying used track, buildings, locos and rolling stock, avoiding the overpriced Woodland Scenics products (there are lots of cheaper alternatives) and scratch building where you can.
I don’t use Canadian dollars when figuring out what I spend. For me it all converts into one layout. I’ve spent one layout’s worth. And no matter how much I spend it still adds up to one layout.
👏🏼 exactly
I couldn’t believe how much I spent on my first layout, close to $10,000! I never even finished it and had to tear it down to move across the country. I’ll probably need to spend another $1,000 to get all set up again in a different configuration. This includes locos and rolling stock in N scale.
5:41. I’ve had two locomotives from starter sets do this. Both times it was the motor, where the brushes touch the stator a gap had opened up causing an arc that scorched the stator and that residue was preventing the stator from getting power. So I scrubbed the stator clean, reset the brushes and off it went. If that sounds tedious, then the actual work was about twice as hard. Although I work on watches so I’m used to it
I've got a small 2.5'x4' layout in N scale. It's got two loops of track side by side, made totally with flex track. The only other track were the turnouts, of which I used 8. These were all peco code 55 electro frog. The little things make up a decent chunk. The wire terminals where I hooked up all my feeder wires, the actual wires that went to the controller stuff (at first I was DC and then I went DCC). I also got some feeder wires. I got a new, thinner thing of solder, plus flux paste, heat shrink tubing. I already had most of the tools to do everything, but if you had to buy a soldering iron or a saw, or screwdrivers or all that stuff, it can add up. I had never used caulk at my own home, so I needed the dispenser alongside the actual caulk. I ended up using a couple layers of pink insulation foam, which was around $50. Gorilla glue to get it all stuck together. I used hardboard as the base and around the fascia area. I bought a Stanley Surfoam (?) tool to cut the mountain and places where the ground drops down below. I used woodland scenics foam roadbed, had to buy 2 of them because I ALMOST had enough. A couple bags of ballast, all the glue to spread the ballast and grass. I ended up getting a static grass applicator just because. I've purchased 3 structure kits from Walthers. Then there's the bit of ground foam as well. I'm going for a fall look, so that's a number of fall colors to have some variety. It can skyrocket pretty quickly.
Nice one Jimmy but I think you provided the costs for the benefit of the better halves. Signals, street lighting, wiring and electronics spring to mind. Lumber and the details around that also do not come for free. Having bought a starter set for 245€ a couple of years ago I estimate I have spent about double what you have done and my layout is nowhere near finished. In terms of costs I have made the assumption that 1€ is about the same as $1.
Including a few unassembled structure kits, I've probably put roughly $1200 into my 1' x 6' switching layout. I also use Unitrack, but I went with #4 turnouts. As Jimmy mentions in the video, they cost a little more than the #6 turnouts. I bought more of them than I initially needed, and the final version of this layout has two fewer than the original plan (those came out because I decided to reconfigure a couple things).
Now I'm planning a new layout, which will reuse most of the track I already have along with the existing benchwork. I will have to buy a few more pieces of track since it will run along two walls instead of one, but I estimate that at less than $100. I'm figuring probably another $100-200 to build the additional benchwork.
But don't ask me what I've been spending acquiring new rolling stock, of which I have purchased a lot this year!
Hey Jimmy, Ever tried doing removal weathering? It's a very specific technique I learned using water mixable oil paints thinned down to create a base wash, then taking a few other brushes with water to then remove some of it leaving a residue, and creating the natural rain streaks and dust and rust build up like real trains tend to look. Looks great on some Steam locomotives. I'd like to see what you can do with this and show it to the model railroading community. (I will state that it can't be done in a day, it's definitely a week long project due to the dry time of the weathering) This is for HO Scale mainly.
I use an alcohol mist spray on my trees, it does remove the dust, and it looks good.
I have over 70 Peco switches on my current layout which is coming down soon to start a new prototype layout, just bought another box of atlas code 80 and another 60 plus switches. I don’t even bother to try and figure it anymore, just buy what you can when you can and enjoy it.
Regarding dust: (1) A very soft bristle fan brush - say, size 10 - can be used to clean dust (and spiderwebs!) off of delicate parts, including trees and scenery. (2) Woodland Scenics makes a product called a Dust Dabber, which is a green gel. Pinch off a bead about the size of a hazelnut (it feels really gross!) and roll it across hard surfaces like sidewalks, rooftops, rolling stock, etc. (3) Finally, several manufacturers offer model vacuums - these are smaller and have less suction; but use carefully!
Thanks for the Answer to my question.
I was watching the Podcast with Grant Eastman this morning. (Saw your channel name come up)
Honestly I'm seriously wanting to 3d print my own rolling stock and start making some engines. Due to the era and location I want to model, trying to find that stuff in N scale is really hard.
Also with what they ended up saying near the end about the unboxer modellers really got to me.
I built my layout many years And I bought all the track and switches at the same time it's a 4 by 6 plan at the time it cost me 360 bucks. If I built it today 1300 to 1500 It has 27 switches 4 and 6's and the track is box track. I didn't use flex at the time. It's all Atlas.
The trains and building came one at a time. Speaking of Dcc-Ex the new motor shield is really excellent , I can run quiet a few trains. But I still fall back on DC. I buy most of my trains used found a couple of places I Ilike.
I am finally starting my layout, and track is so expensive. But like any hobby, if you really enjoy it. Cost shouldn't be a factor. I scratch build a lot of structures, and find used locomotives and repair them. Great show. Thanks
the building I bought on etsy, the print job is truly excellent, one of the best I have seen, it will be a pleasure to add it to my layout.
Let's say that you are a retiree on a fixed income, and you want to start an 8x4 layout. What purchasing steps would you take if you could only buy equipment (pieces for layout - track, buildings, etc.) once a month?
On a locomotive not working: attend a NMRA division meeting. You’ll almost certainly encounter people who can at least diagnose the issue and maybe even fix it. Membership will provide continuing (reciprocating) support no matter your level.
Best way to keep layout clean is if in basement , put something on the cieling. Dust comes down everytime someone walks upstairs. A drop cieling is the easyist. DO CIELING BEFORE LAYOUT FIRST. , just believe me , dont ask why.🥴
Concerning the "motor wont go" question...
I'm a little late commenting but... I often have the problem where the lights turn on but the motor does not run. For me it is a consisting issue. I make my consists using NCE which automatically assigns the consist address. However if I delete the consist from NCE the loco will never move because it will never see the consist that was programmed. Some functions like the lights will respond either to the consist address or the loco address. However the motor will only respond to the consist address, which never comes.
Tony
I find keeping a small fan always running, seems to keep dust off. My room is dedicated and I keep the door shut, which seals the room.
If you are going to do a video about boosters, you should also consider covering power districts and electronic breakers. Particularly for multi-user layouts, and troubleshooting, power districts and breakers are a must, so that one wiring error or equipment fouling a switch doesn't shut the whole layout down. Also this can prevent a big booster from doing things like melting loco trucks if they foul a turnout (ask me how I know). If you are using DCC for accessories (like controlling turnouts) they should be on their own bus and power district, so that if something shorts the layou, they will still be operable.
Another Question... will you do a Video on not just the affordable camera options, but of all the cameras you use for your videos! Would be awesome to get another perspective of video equipment.
On locos not working: I concur, it's probably a motor connection. Depending on what it is, you might need to solder a connection or reseat the decoder. I was having issues with a couple of mine glitching, soldered connections on one and was off to the races.
Nice 4 layouts!
I am afraid to add it up. LOL Thanks for sharing.
This must be one of the most dangerous videos on UA-cam, imagine if our wives saw it and realized the real cost of this hobby 😱
Hahahaha!
My wife pays for everything for my layout. In the event that I die she won't get ripped off.
And I think he seriously underestimated total cost.
Could be worse - you could be spending that money on a race car!
I know a fellow who races with Sports Car Club of America who, when asked what he spent on racing, answered, "I've been lying to my wife for so long about how much I spend that I'm not sure anymore."
A guy who owned the club layout (HO) had a huge roundhouse full of brass steamers. AC-9,10,11 and 12 GS-3 and other assorted SP steamers the whole point of the roundhouse was to hide his locomotives from his wife.
I had been going there since the early 90s. I found this out recently after talking to other club members.
To put this into perspective. His layout was built first and the house was put on top of it. He was one of the big names in model railroading in the country. He was a dealer for Athern and Walthers.
He also sold alot of brass Locomotives.
The thing that disappointed me the most was returning to NZ after 21 years in the UK. And his layout is now the club layout. Many buildings are missing and all the steamers have gone. His AC-9 is somewhere in the US.
Noooo... never contemplate that question too hard! LOL!!
Also why buying second-hand layouts can be tremendously cost effective I might add. I bought my club's old N scale exhibition layout for $AU1500... would likely cost $AU25k to build.
"Never ask the queston of how much it cost!!!!" is a good rule, the cost is just part of having any hobby, model railroading is much less than any hobby. It all about how much pleasure you get out of it. 😂
How much did your layout cost? This is a pretty open-ended question, and I suspect that a complete accounting would stun us all. I started my most recent layout in early 2018, and I estimate that, since then, I have spent almost $20k on lumber, locomotives, rolling stock, kits, scenery materials, electronics, parts, tools, paint, supplies, etc. That ignores money I had already spent prior to 2018 (but it includes money I spent on a lot of so far unassembled kits and unused detail parts, decals, and scratch building supplies.) But when you express it as $370 a month, it doesn't sound nearly as bad!
Regarding structures that you build yourself (or 3D print yourself), there is still expense: raw materials, details, paint, decals, and - if you're 3D printing - amortization of capital. In your case, Jimmy, perhaps you've made more from your Etsy store than you've spent on 3D printers and raw materials, in which case you're entitled to a free pass on your own buildings.
Could you make a video talking about using Loconet along with DCC-EX and JMRI to control arduino-based servo motors for switch machines?
I’m somewhat new to your channel, having only subscribed recently. Maybe I haven’t seen enough of your videos but I don’t see that any of your rolling stock or engines are weathered (at least not in this video). Is this something you prefer not to do? Thank you! Great content and presentation!
It's not the cheapest hobby, but it sure is fun! I got about $1100 in mine
Wow... I spent that just on the controller!
@@warrenholmar1129 I used the prodigy dcc. Cost me $150. Works great for my 8x10
Sadly here in NZ prices aren't cheap. Everything is imported. And the community here just isn't what it was in the 90s.
The demise of model shops really hasn't helped much either.
Recently I got the DPM 13 building kit. To get direct from WS was going to be over $500NZD but there was a site here selling it for $425 odd thing is they still shipped from the US... and it was far cheaper.
As far as Kato I would rather just buy directly from Japan. I got stung with a Californina Zephyr set. It was meant to be new .. but ended up having a warped axle and melted truck. At a guess it was run on a DCC layout and derailed on a turnout.
I have tried to find the replacement part from Kato but they are apparently renovating their website.
I have Ho and track. I plan to make a sand mine and cement plant. I will be using real play sand and cement dust. Any issues i need to be concerned with. Mine will be DC
I don’t even have my layout built and I’m well over $600 just on programming and testing equipment!
Can we get the drawing file for your layout, I believe you are using Train Software. I love your layout and about the size I need, will be building in a bedroom.
good vid thanks lee
A question on ballasting. I use Kato Unitrack like you, and you show how to ballast it. However, you and others only show how they ballast straight and curved track. How do you ballast the Kato turnouts? I had one I had to completely rip apart to get it to work again.
Cost is relative to interest. If I was to place specific dollar figures on values, I would probably scare myself. Some l9cos and rolling stock were bought new, some bought used, some acquired through gift and trade, how do you value that? Then add track, buildings, layout lumber, wiring.... the list goes on. Then add true real estate, for some, it is in your garden, others have garage space or a portion of a basement or bedroom. Add the cost to finish a room. I built walls, wiring, drywall, paint flooring etc. And we never truly "finish" a layout, tinkering, adjusting, adding. Value or cost is in the eye of the beholder or the user. Time invested cannot be measured.
So what is the cost? Ask my estate on the day it has to be disposed of - then you will find your cost or value.😢
I have too many different things bought from so many different places that I could not possibly put a total together!
Vittoria in cold milk.
Love their coffee
Can you program an address to a loco on the mainline? or does it have to be on a programming track? I have a DCS52 Digitrax system. I am trying to add an address for a Bachmann loco. Thanks Jimmy.
You know, about how much we spend. “The Nile” is not just a river in Egypt.
Should never ask a question like "how much did it cost" 😅
The cost would pend on your limitations. How much or little you want
Two notes - 1) Cost per hour of enjoyment in bench building, wiring, figuring, modeling, programming, painting, socializing, running, operating trains = Cheap Entertainment.
2) I don't hide from my wife, we share our lives & hobbies, "in sickness and health" ❤.
What’s the best was to power multiple arduino nanos for the multi-block signal system?
Wanting to do a double dog bone z scale module layout with 2 reversing loops. Would it be good to have 2 arduinos to controlling the polarity changes.
What is a good dcc decoder for beginners?
What is your opinion on Walthers N scale locomotives?
You should get a cp rail locomotive
Do you have a link to the 3d printed scenery/buildings?
My layout is 27 years old. When I amortize my investment over that period of time I consider it reasonable. The enjoyment I have experienced and knowledge gained is priceless. I’m at the point where I don’t need much so I enjoy scratch building and detailing. Sometimes I drool a little over new rolling stock and DCC releases but I don’t need them. Happy to pick up the odd train show bargain. I also try to support my local hobby and train stores when I can.
@modelrailroader56
It’s a fantastic hobby!!!🤩
Thanks for sharing,Jimmy.
I don't want to know what I have spent on my collection but with over 150 engines and several hundred cars I could buy a nice pickup truck
That looked mighty like a kiwi car rego plate on the wall behind the 3D printer pan by....
You are very observant! I spent 2 months on the South Island in 2009!
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Toyota Corsa AX-X
You know better than to ask that question.
But my answer is " not as much as I would have spent on booze and gambling"😂🤣😂🤣😂
in france for the same layout, it's probably arount a tousand euros
Would you ever consider getting anything Australian?
Does anybody have experience in using Kato unitracks with a ESU Ecos to control the trains?
How much did MRR2 cost?
Are there any books you recommend for model railroads?
What audio video equipment do you use for your channel
Model railroading is awesome but it's expensive and requires space. I'll stick to trainz online.
Them: How much does your layout cost?
Me: Yes.
Just started, but... i assume there are two figures, one you tell your wife and the one which is much more and hope she never finds out
A model RR is something you can’t put a price on.
That price is not all that bad, honestly.
You kind of have to compare it to other hobbies. It's not all that terrible in comparison. Now, if you JUST don't have the money, there are other ways and things would end up more simple, but little by little surely is the way to go if you can't just drop it all at once.
For sure. I played competitive MTG before changing hobbies, my decks cost easily double or triple what he said here.
wow I have 70K in mine for 4 years
I haven't watched this video yet, but right off I'm going tell you that you've broken one of the most sacred rules of men: never, NEVER! disclose how much your hobby actually costs. My gawd, what if my wife stumbles on this video and starts asking questions?
hello
WHAT THE HECK ARE BOOSTERS??????
I think n scale not cheaper train. Hahahaha n scale players very rich man🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
I will not estimate the cost of my Model Railroad and I definitely will not estimate the cost of my MRR collection :)
Fails to mention power packs, DCC , wiring , lumber, paint, adhesives , ground cover, ballast. His estimate is way low. His wife must watch his videos.
4 layout here. Asking cost,sshhhhh! Don't talk like that in here😮😂aka rich man sport😢
Please be careful with plastic covering, if it's a moist area or high humidity the plastic will draw moisture. Have know this since Boy Scouts 1958. On survival camping we would make solar stiles to collect water that's drinkable. So using plastic is a ify. Hate see corrosion set in on someone's layout.
😂 $1,500.00?? Keep telling yourself that. 😂😂😂😂😂