Ender 3 V2 Bed Leveling : Quick Look at How to Level a 3D Printer Bed
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2024
- Today we talk about the Ender 3 V2 Bed Leveling and I show you a quick look at how to level a 3D Printer Bed. This is a short version of the more in depth video I did a couple years ago. Check that one out for even more content!
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Something to keep in mind to make things go a little faster. Try to position the nozzle directly above the screw that you're turning. This will eliminate any of the extra rise or fall you get from being off from the pivot point. If you manage to be directly above the screw/pivot point, you will also eliminate the effects the screw adjustment will have on the other three corners.
That's what he said in the video.
Great advice. Thanks
Sounds genius, but still to be tested, will give my Feedback on this later, thanks
I started this and on my first pass around discovered the right rear corner was almost 5mm higher than any other corner. After a lot of troubleshooting I discovered the x-axis support was not square with the bed or z-axis supports. turns out one of the rollers was bent. once I fixed that looks like the bed leveling was working
"Takes 5 minutes tops"
Me on day 6 still trying to get my bed leveled. . :')
Same here, I've spent quite a lot of time manually levelling the bed, even with BLTouch, there are always couple rebel circles when I run bed leveling print.. frustrating
Take a look to the excentric nuts on the botom of the bed, if yuo adjust , yuo change a little the geometry of the bed, resulting in a warpped or semi warped bed
What i do is use 2 pice of paper (not one), because i use 0.2 mm layer high, the point is use something similar to yuor layer high, for example, if yuo use 0.1 mm layer high, use just 1 paper(0.1mm paper)
@@noway8233 testing this now! .. will give updates.. i heard business cards are good also?
@@alexkurebis3907 i use a tipical pice of paper for printer, they mesere 0.1 mm aprox (yuo can check with a caliper), but for 0.2 layer high,i use 2 papers togerher, so the nozzle can touch them..when yuo fell some resistance, thats ok, the go to the other corner, always move a little cause when yuo change one corner, afect the others, so i do this a cople of time until they are more less the same(yuo can check the center too,and see how warped/flat is, an remenber, the eccentric can chage the geometry of the bed, good luck)
great information, I've been printing for two years and still reference this video every time I change my nozzle.
dude i love you, thank you. this shits easy with practice but beginners like me need these dumbed down "5 minute" versions. you make everything much more understandable for someone who has no knowledge and bought a 3d printer for fun :)
Absolutely fantastic bed leveling tutorial!! It's perfect for beginners like me. You don't talk down to us but you don't talk over our heads either. Thanks for taking the time to make this for all of us noobs!!
I agree Dustin.
Dustin I agree.
It’s 2024 and Dustin. I agree
at the end you talk about baby stepping to get that perfect first layer, but i wish you described what to look for and how to tell if you need to go up or down as it's starting. it's cool to know we CAN do minute adjustments, but we need to know what to look for to make a decision.
Imagine a cross section where the filament in a line is a slightly squished oval. That's what you are aiming for. If you look at the underside of your parts as you print more and more objects, you can keep dialling it in to get a nicer lower surface finish
I dont know why. I looked at many videos on leveling but i could not get it to work. Then I watched this video and I had it perfect after 30 min. Thank you!
After a ton of video on how to level my 3d bed................your the BEST, Thanks
Awesome! I'm glad it helped and I hope your printing good now!
Very handy! This isn't my first FDM printer but my previous one had auto-leveling so I never had to worry about doing it manually.
This is honestly my new favorite leveling guide.
I'm really new to 3d printing but my best tip is level right above the 4 screws first. (like in the video)
The skirt print helps as well. If it's thin the bed is too high, if it isn't squished but round, the bed is too low
Great video, re-set up my printer following this and now its printing perfect again, no more bed peeling !!
Pointed this out only couple weeks ago as not 1 video showed you need to load up the bed adjuster springs to begin with and next is to take the bed amd nozzle up to operating temps as heat makes them expand so then they are different measurements again , so firm up bed springs then heat then level , FIRM HEAT LEVEL jobs done 👍😊
I hadn't leveled my bed in a year (hadn't printed anything) and completely forgot how to do it, I got my bed leveled in less than 6 minutes (always was 10+ for me, as i want it perfect). Love the video!
The only tutorial that worked from the first time. Big thanks 🎉
Hi, I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this as I got a ender 3 v2 this Christmas but after I assembled it the bed wouldn’t level as the top of the printer would touch the bedding hand when I pull the bedding it would scrape. I think I found the problem as this video has helped so I thing the problem was that the x axis went down to low and as you showed that we could move up the stopper this is probably going to make the printer able to move around the bed comfortably, thank you for making this.
I'm glad it could help! I hope You love your printer! Thank you for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTechNo problem thank you !
@@TheEdgeofTech happy new year man, have the best year!
@@drazo691 You too! Happy New year!
@@TheEdgeofTech sorry to bother but I have a bit of a problem. When I start a print it always messed up by the print not staying on the bed when the printer moves. It’s starts the print and then when it moves the print moves with it and it’s not sticking to the mat properly, if you have any idea what’s causing this please tell me as I’m trying to print some stuff for my brothers birthday which is in 2 days.
I had been having issues getting a good level but your video helped. Now my prints are coming out a lot cleaner. Thanks
If you disable steppers, your z-axis will be free to drop down. Its better to leave it enabled and move XY with menu. And always move your nozzle right above springs, so you dont need to relevel 5 times.
it isnt going to drop because the z-axis rod is threaded
if you dont disable the steppers you are going to be putting wear on them and eventually burn them up
@@InZayne Thats not true. Do you think that z-axis stepper is disabled while you are printing? Its enabled whole time during print. And try to move the axis down with stepper disabled and you will be surprised how easy it is.
@@sviccc your z axis will not be able to drop down, because it is at lowest point possible due to the Z stop. Disabling makes bed levelling so much easier and faster, at least in my experience.
@@Mkayy9 i have bed leveled in one minute. When you drop your axis on endstop, you are actually beyond its switch point. And also putting stress on it...
@@sviccc autohome makes it touch the stopper.
1 minute with menu option? 😁 thats a lie, sorry. Or your bed has to be leveled at the beginning. If the bed is unlevelled you are risking to damage nozzel when setting it to move to other corner, because it would not stop when it starts touching the bed.
I read that disabling stepper motors can result in slight changes to the nozzle's z position when moving the head around the surface. That's why I use the move option and use the screen to move the nozzle.
This can happen, and a lot of firmware is now including the Leveling option to move the hotend to the specific points on the build plate for you! Thanks for watching!
This happened to me. Somehow when I disable the stepper, the z-axis motor turns a little bit and that really ruins my leveling. I use different method by the way. Once I do autohome the nozzle, I move z axis by 0.2 or 0.4, then instead of paper I use feeler gauge with the corresponding thickness between the bed and the nozzle.
Finally someone is showing how to do it . thank you
Followed your method a couple of times now exactly and its worked both times thank you.
My ender 3v2 right out of the box was an absolute beast. Easily my best prints to date. I then went and upgraded my springs, Bowden tube, couplers and added a BLTouch and I can't get the bed to level worth a damn. Ive tried different methods and firmwares and even if I get the first layer to go down OK, it ends up dying about halfway through. So unbelievably frustrating.
same for me
@@ImranKhan-lx3fi check your extruder for cracks. Mine ended up broke, which was the reason for my poor prints. I upgraded to a metal extruder and have had no problems since.
Oh my god thank you so much my friend and I were going nuts trying to level it LOL you are a literal lifesaver
UUUUUUUUUUHMMMMMMM you don´t have to loosen your Z-endstop. You leave the microswitch in the lowest position and screw the heating bed all the way down. Then you screw the heating bed back up until the distance between the nozzle and the printing bed fits perfectly with the piece of paper trick... AND THATS because during daily printing you never will check if the screws of the microswitch are still tighten. So what would happen if they are not and the switch isn´t in the lowest position? Right you destroy your printer....
Thankyou so much for this tutorial, i copied it step by step and was done in 4 mins tops.
I purchased an Ender 3 as my first printer. Never again will buy a printer that is not self leveling. I used a Bambu P1P self levelling printer last weekend and it was a dream. Fast setup with zero calibration. Yeah, more money but well worth it.
One of the best levelling tip
Best bed leveling video. I'm a newbie and your video made it super clear. Thanks!
thank you so much, this was one of the best tutorials i could find, keep up the good work!
There’s some cura prints you can get that’ll automatically position the nozzle over the four corners for leveling. POG
or use jyer's firmware
@@youraveragemetalhead226 whats that?
I was ready to trash my ender. Works like a charm now. Thx a lot!
OMG, thanks so much! I think my Z stepper thing on the side had come loose! I loosened one bolt and the whole thing fell off. I had been leveling and re-leveling but my prints were coming out in dots and splotches. Thank you for the easy step-by-step, very well done! :) Looks like it's working great again!
Trying this method now. My issue is that the z-stop cannot go any lower. the nozzle is nowhere near the bed when the z-stop is at its lowest possible point. I'm guessing this is because I still currently have the OEM bed springs, not the upgraded ones that you recommended in another video. Those will be here tomorrow, so I guess I'll try again when they get here
Update: With the yellow springs. this method was basically required as the yellow springs are slightly taller, the z stop needs to be offset up to match. Awesome, informative vids
BRUH!!! THANK YOU!!!! This is the best single advice ever for a brand new beginner!!!!
Thanks for the video. Got the printer leveled on my first attempt post you video. (failed twice before trying to do it by myself without guidance)
2 problems I came across and the solutions to save you some time.
1. When you hit the auto home button, one of the motors makes a loud Brrrr sound.
Solution: The bed is too low and it's hitting the Y-axis stepper motor in the back, lose up the wheels till you see some clearance or until you can move the bed back the farthest position without any resistance (until the you hit the limit switch)
2. You're going around adjusting all 4 sides but one of them doesn't raise the bed enough even when it's completely loose.
Solution: Keep going around doing the others and when you come back to the loose one it will be tighter because of the other adjustments.
Thanks so much. I've upgraded the springs using your video and after that my normal routine of leveling wasn't working out so I watched this video and it's perfect now.
I often come back to this video asnits very helpful. Never, ever has it taken me five minutes. I mean, it's still a great video, I may just be an idiot!
Just perfect thanks a lot for your time and well explaining lesson, Thanks a million !!!
I don't think disabling the steppers to do the leveling is a good method. When moving the hot end with your hand you can accidentally move the Z up or down, I get a much better result from using the move feature in the menu and let the motors do the real accurate movements. I have a gcode for it but you can manually do it also, Just set these z axis points to get directly above the screws. 1st screw is 30x30y , 2nd screw is 30x200y, 2rd screw 200x200y, 4th screw 200y30x
I also have Gcode that does this, but I wanted to show a quick method that can be done with nothing but the basic machine. But I do think it's a good idea to use the Gcode or leveling feature if it's built it I the firmware. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech question for you regarding the method you used in this video. When you use the "tune" feature to adjust the Z stepper. Does the SD card save that new number?
When I 1st got my printer I used your method to level minus using the tune to adjust the Z. Now a half a roll of filament later... when ever I use the paper to just lightly kiss the nozzle. When I go to print, I have to lower the bed during the 1st few passes as it is smearing the filament. I actually have to drop it quite a bit to get it low enough. All my prints stick fine but I get a flat and wide filament that first pass around. Some times I get no filament out at all its so close. I never had that at first and I'm doing nothing differently than I am now and actually going lighter on the paper tug than I did when I started out. I use to set it with a decent tug. Now I have to barely feel it.
If I go tighter with the paper now it makes it worse now. Why would that change? All stock 3v2 and I have the bed springs pretty tight to keep from moving and as low as possible to still be able to turn the wheels. I have new springs coming but I'm thinking I'll have the same problem.
Thanks You Sir you are a life saver ive been up 6 hours until i saw you video it level perfectly thanks you so much
Thank you, this was very helpful when I installed my magnetic build serface. 1st print seems to going very well.
Finally, I leveled it while it was printing. Back was okay but front left just didn't want to play nice.
Thanks so much I am New to 3D printing and i was having trouble levelling the bed on my ender 3 and after watch I was off printing again..
Very useful thank you it worked for my adjustment that was the issue I was having.
This tutorial is simply awesome, thanks a lot!!!
I have never touched the Z Offset control on my 3V2 and I always get good first layers, lucky I suppose :)
Awesome!!!
Thank you so much! I didn’t know I had to adjust the z axis stop
great levelling video, worked perfect. thanks a lot🤘
Excellent video bud. Been having problems with my z homing at different levels. I will give this approach a try before I by a BLtouch
Thanks for making videos man.
Glad you like them!
this helped me - thank you 🤖🤘
lefty uppy (loose) - righty downy (tight)
Forgot to thank you for your video, very helpful.....
Thanks so much for you time and efart into this video that helped me so much
Having huge issues now with my ender 3 v2 Bed Leveling, I get all 4 corners perfect (with bed heated and also without makes no difference) Middle always too high and doesn't stick at all, using Z-offset at -0.07 I get perfect first layer but every layer after gets closer and closer to the print and I have to set the Z-Offset to +0.15 then its perfect what am I doing wrong or is there a way to set this in Prusaslicer so its automatic
Hey thank you for this tutorial. Very much appreciated and very much needed.
Would you be able to do a video on the BLTouch for the E3v2. Start to finish. Install, Calibration, First Print for some one who is new to all this.
I've watched a bunch of BLTouch videos but it seems like things get skipped over in the videos that I've seen. I think a lot of this is due to the person who is making the videos already having it setup, level and ready to print.
They are always like, "mine is already set but you just do this" but don't really show you.
Thank you!
Great Idea!
I put one on my V2 recently and, yeah, between guides with people running 3rd party firmware, using random brackets and other mods, or skipping over vital steps like setting the z-offset, it can be a bit of a minefield. A straightforward, start to finish guide on stock hardware would be very valuable.
On my Ender 3 the wheels are marked "up' and "down", not tighten and loosen. As a total beginner I rely on accuracy in such things. I assume you meant to start by moving the bed all the way down 😁
Lefty lower ... Righty Raisey!
As a human use common sense. When you tighten the screws the bed gets lower and when you loosen the bed gets higher.
Thanks so much adjust the z stop for me helped a ton!!!
V helpful. Still not sure about adjusting z axis as you print!
Thank you for this video I’ve tried so many times to level my bed and this video got me there.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
thanks for your comment really works
Jim, If you were going to buy a 300x300 printer without any budget constraint which model would you buy?
Man that's a great question! Shoot me a chat or email and I'll think about it in the meantime! Thanks for watching!
I like your channel, and your voice
Thankyou for making this helpful video, liked & Subscribed, Thankyou, Kenneth
Hi, I have a problem with the printer. I am new to 3d printing and when I start a print the plastic moves with the printer as it moves. I have levelled the bed properly and whenever I start a print it just doesn’t go straight on to the bed and curls up and moves around with the printer and I’m really stuck at the moment so any help would be great.
Another way of saying it is when it starts a print it does no go directly onto the bed when the nozzle is so close to it and it just lifts up. When I was printing the calibration cube it would just print and then when the nozzle moves it would go with it and not stay down when I’ve gone round the bed levelling a lot.
To me it seems like you don't have the nozzle close enough to the bed. Also make sure that your build surface is very clean. If it's glass you can use a little soap and water on it and wash it really good. Also, isopropyl alcohol works very well. Make sure you're using 60° c temperature on the bed as well.
@@TheEdgeofTech I made sure the bed was close to the nozzle and cleaned the glass bed and then printed out a benchy and it came out fantastic! Thank you man you’ve saved me!
Thanks...Very helpful video... what's the bed you are using on this printer?
It's a TH3D bed of some kind
Like David said, it's the TH3D EZFlez 2 bed. I think I did a video on it in the Ender 3 V2 playlist. There are links there!
Thanks. I was able to get it level. I was going insane. Had the z stop messed up
I was trying to do this again but my end stop was already all the way down as far as it could go. Things got confusing from there.
Personally I don't like to disable steppers and move it by hand. I find that it adds the issue of slightly misalignment things with the force. I just use the move function and move the extruder like that. I'll go directly over each spring about 3 or 4 times around checking the center at the end
Thanks so much! This helped!
great vid! keep it up
Thanks for watching!
Hey guys, if you guys are having trouble leveling your bed check to see if it's wobbling. I was having issues with my leveling until I realized this issue. You can just look up "how to fix a wobbly printer bed on an ender 3" or something like that. Easy fix
I know this is a bit of an older video, but hopefully someone sees this comment - I've watched a couple videos like this with similar procedures, but even dropping the z axis as far as it can go, it doesn't come anywhere close to the bed to do what you're showing with the springs in roughly the same spots. I have to loosen them a LOT to get the bed to a point where it is even possible to meet the nozzle. I've done this and had a mostly successful first print, with a single support failing to adhere to the bed, but didn't seriously affect the result. I'm at a loss as to why my bed seems to be so much farther down than everyone else's with respect to the nozzle, though. If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them.
Thanks for the comment! I'm sorry you're having trouble!. Did you move down your Z End Stop?
Great Tips, Thanks!
makes me really appreciate my Sidewinder x1, thou i just purchased a ender 3 v2 for an additional printer
Hi, when you say paper dragging in-between the nozzle and build plate is it like a scratching feeling? or is that too much?
Yes, exactly! But not tight enough where you can't push it back in with one hand. So you should be able to slide it both ways back and forth without the paper wrinkling. If the paper wrinkles it's too tight. But it will feel like a light scratching between the nozzle and the paper.
What plate is that? Can you link it please
I find the bed becoming a tiny bit loose or tight over a 48 hour period, so every couple of days ill check my z offset. My dad always tells me measure twice cut once.
Simple and clear video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching!
Anyone else struggling like I was, I found I'd put the x-axis belt tensioner on backward. Sounds daft but it fits and looked right at the time. After correctly placing it, the prints came out beautifully.
We can put a vehicle on mars, but not make an auto level printer 🤦🏻♂️
Bl touch is auto bed leveling lol
Ikr. My back is hurting with all of this huhu
There are lots of auto-leveling printers. My other one, the EcubMaker ToyDIY has it.
Prusa????
@@nczioox1116 you still need to manually level the bed with that lol Thats what OP meant.
Well explained and easy to follow. Thanks!
Thanks! And thank you for watching!
I’m a little confused, at 1:09 are you turning them all the way counter clock wise ? Wouldn’t that be extremely loose to the point where the knob falls off ?
Thanks for a very clear and well described video, having spent over 6 hours now with no luck I am going to follow your video by the second. Im not new to 3d printers in fact this is my 5th but this one is a headache. As a point when I disable the steppers the head moves fractionally which I am unsure if this is right ??? Anyway will try tomorrow fingers crossed ;-)
That's just the wound tension in the rod being exerted by the motors being released. It's nothing to fret about.
Jim,
I installed a EZABL sensor on my Ender 3 V2, and have been experiencing frequent need to 'babyset' the z offset. I know you've done a video on the installation of this same Auto leveling technology. I followed the setup as specified in documents and an youtube video, including calibrating the sensor. I was wondering how your experience has been with the EZABL Sensor. Are you finding that the z offset has to be adjusted frequently?
Thanks
DT
Good question! I normally don't need to mess with it to much after doing it the first time. Are you saving the config on the printer after you dial in the baby steps? By that I mean going to control and clicking the save option. That should save the config and you shouldn't have to mess with it unless you move the printer or are still using springs that can move. I like using the solid bed mounts as them don't move and that's a variable that I don't have to worry about.
@@TheEdgeofTech Yes, I still have my upgraded "yellow" springs on the bed as insurance policy for me so if my print head come crashing down on it I'll at least some some accident forgiveness.. perhaps this is why I am experiencing my issues with leveling. I believe EZABL includes a STL file that has the solid bed mounts. I'll get to those today and give it another try. Another thing, I noticed that you are using a Magnetic printing surface from TH3D, how do you like it? I still have my original Ender Glass on my setup and I am seriously thinking about making the switch.
DT
Thanks for this video, man. Took me probably way too long but I was able to level my bed.
i loosened my z stop and when i tried to put it back on it didnt fit. prior to me trying this tutorial it did. what the actual fuck did i do wrong because i think following this tutorial lost me 300 dollars
Hello, just bought a ender 3 v2 (kinda late now ,I know) but when I lower the bed all the way it hits the y axis motor at the back. This means I can't follow the steps in the video, do you have any ideas what may be wrong? Or is this normal, its my first ender hahaha. thanks for your other videos about the ender 3 v2 theyre great!
For those struggling to do this, I tried it everyday for two weeks, got frustrated, left it for over a year, I'm doing it again, and still can't manage to do it, I looked at the bed from the side, they were too tight, I loosened them, until it looked straight and then decided to buy an automatic leveler. My lesson, just buy the solution 😃
Some thing I thought of just now:
Start your print but drop down the speed to 10 - 15 percent. While its printing, level the bed accordingly. This seems to be the best way so far. The paper method just isn't working for me maybe because the filament I'm using. Was using Red PLA and it worked 9 times out of 10 but orange.. has been the worst.
Edit: Another pointer: Adjust the speed if necessary. I think us builders need to come to the conclusion that each project is unique.
Thanks Jim! Setting Z Limit Switch helped a great deal! First level "heaven" now! Thanks again!
Good job. Since all I have are Ender 5's I had no idea how to level an Ender 3.
Hahaha It just about the same but not! Lol
Why say loosen & tighten? We need to know raise or lower. So do you turn clockwise to raise, and counter to lower?
I think I've done something wrong in assembly perhaps as when I tighten the front all the way I still have about 3.5mm before the axis is all the way down as if my bed sits a bit too high.
Tightening lowers the bed, also you may need to move your z-switch.
@@ndsrocks1 Yeah, I needed to move the axis up, ill have to do the same in the back as well.
Thanks again.
4 days trying to level bed seen this and job done I hope not printed anything yet
you must be drectly over the bead springs and make shur ganttre is levle to the frame first. i have a ender3 v 2 and dident get right till i did this. it makes sence because when your over the springs your over the pivit point of that corner. hope this helps sumone.
Wtf did you even say?
Regarding the z-offset how much should I keep it at? Also should I activate it only for the first layer?
What do you do if you can't get your nozzle close enough to touch the paper on the bed? I have my leveling screws as tight as they will go. I have no idea how to get the bed higher or the nozzle lower. my z stop is as low as it will go ad i still have a gap that is almost a quarter inch.
Did you back each leveling screw out four full turns?