The easiest way to level the Ender 3 V2 accurately!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- GCODE files download link: www.thingivers...
Finally got my first video up. Let me know what you guys think...
Lots of credit goes to CHEP for introducing me to the solution presented in this video! Please check out his video if you haven't already as he shows the actual levelling process in more detail: • Creality Ender 3- Easy... . My hope is, however, that my video explained a bit more about what the underlying problem is with the traditional way of bed levelling and why this solution works so well. I also made a few changes to his gcode according to what I've found to work best. Please also remember the tips I gave in this video, as they are crucial to make this method work!
Even though I rewrote the script like 7 times to make everything as clear as possible, conveying these ideas was still quite tricky for me, so let me know if I can explain anything further.
Also, I'm open to any critique! Let me know if the scripted voice-over didn't work for you, if my accent is weird or if you disagree with something I said :)
Some behind the scenes/rant about making this video - it was shot on a Huawei Mate 10 and the voice-over was recorded on the same device (although I put bed covers and any other material I could find against all the walls in the room to minimise reverb - wish you guys could see this!). Setting up the blue led strip behind the wood panel was a pain but I think well worth it. Getting all the light to not overexpose some part of my skin or underexpose some part of the printer or reflect off some part of the scene was quite a challenge - especially when just working with normal house lights. The editing took ages but I think what took the most time was writing the script. I don’t have a knack for explaining things, as I tend to overthink most of the stuff and focus too much on some small detail - so I rewrote it so many times to get to the one in the video. And with English not actually being my native language (Afrikaans is - yes, the one you always see at the top in google translate), I had to read it like another 100 times to get it flawless!
Music credit:
Werq by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/s...
License: filmmusic.io/s...
Newer Wave by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/s...
License: filmmusic.io/s...
There might be an issue with some versions of the Ender 3 V2 where the G-code is not compatible with the printer. I would have liked to look into this in more detail at some point, but I don't have time at the moment. If someone solves the problem, please upload it to Thingiverse and link to it under this comment!
For those still having trouble to level their bed, here’s a quick checklist:
- Binding rollers: I only discussed this very briefly in my video but it is super important for the rollers not to bind to get a good print. Basically when your rollers are too tight they bind and the z-height is only changed on one side, causing your x-axis to pivot. The problem and solution is better explained in Teaching Tech’s video: ua-cam.com/video/vW4DaWCd0Xs/v-deo.html
- Z-axis limit switch not secured: I suspect this will be a very rare problem, but if this switch is not properly secured you will level the bed to a different height each time and your print will start at a different height each time.
- Become friends with the z-offset setting: remember that most slicing software will start printing at a height of 0.20mm, so even if levelled at exactly 0.00mm between the bed and nozzle, you can select a z-offset of -0.10mm to really push the print onto the bed for the first layer. Experts might say this isn’t great technique but it helped me out a lot. Also, if your bed is curved like mine which has a low point in the middle, and you’re just printing something small in the middle, you may even have to select a much larger z-offset of like -0.35mm. Warning: go gradual on this setting as you’ll obviously damage your bed if taken too far and the nozzle jams into the bed.
Now, to address some comments:
- “Rather install firmware X.” I myself briefly looked into this to solve my leveling problems in my early days, but it looked like too much of a hassle for something I just bought. The gcode solution presented in the video is super simple, yet very effective and it’s for the people who don’t want to install other firmware for whatever reason. Keen to try other firmware out at some point though.
will this work with the new 1.0.4 firmware
thank you so much. this was so helpful since the original process wants a perfect outcome through an imperfect process (really stupid imo) so thank you man!
Tramming your bed, aka leveling, can be affected by the temperature of the bed and nozzle. When they are warm they expand causing them to be closer together. To prevent the filament from coming out, preheat the bed & nozzle, when they reach temp, hold the lever on the extruder so it allows you to pull the filament, pull the filament back a few inches at the extruder. This releases the pressure on the filament at the hot end so you won't have plastic oozing out. Now wipe off any excess, set the bed to home and proceed to tram the bed.
Thanks for your comment! I will change the gcode at some point to heat the bed automatically as there's no reason not to really, but as for heating the nozzle, I think I'll go one step further, and say it *might be too much trouble and *perhaps even unnecessary. The main problem leveling sorts out is getting all parts of your bed an equal distance from the nozzle - ideally 0 relative to the z-stop switch. Now when using paper or the back of a sticker to level you're introducing a (consistent) distance of about 0.07mm between the nozzle and the bed. I think it's possible that the little bit the nozzle expands when heated is close to this distance (0.07mm) bringing your nozzle actually closer to the desired 0 distance between the bed and nozzle. I might be slightly off here, but the point I'm trying to make is that heating or not heating the nozzle will only introduce a *constant z-offset across the whole bed, which may even be beneficial, and if not, can be remedied quickly by setting the z-offset. Note: I may be a tad biased here since I anyway need to set the z-offset always, depending on where I'm printing on the bed since my bed is badly curved, having a low area in the middle. Another note after re-evaluating my reply: I don't think your method is that much trouble, and it may even deliver more consistent results. Either way, I think it's up to each to choose the solution working for them.
Heated bed and nozzle doesn’t affect the bed levelling that much. See this video from CHEP where he tested it👍🏻
ua-cam.com/video/MNVCDNW0RoU/v-deo.html
Thank you! I have been trying to figure out why I couldn't level the bed, and I thought it was me (or a bad printer or something). What you explains makes perfect sense and now my bed is level and I can start printing again!
around 3 days dozens of videos i didnt mange to level my bed but thanks to your g code and your awsome explanation i done it thank you man i now understand how to make it
Thank you for this... i've had an Ender 3v2 for 2 weeks. one week of useful prints.. then 5 days of failures in the first few layers.... finally after your GCode, a good print is working...
You Sir are godsent! I just sold my CR-20 which had this function by default in the firmware. I "upgraded" to Ender 3 v2 so you can only imagine my frustration when I discovered, they removed the auto-bed level from the menu so they can sell their BL-touch nonsense. I am going to print a mini monument in your honor and place it centrally over my workbench!
THANK YOU EVER SO MUCH!
Spent quite a few hours trying to get the bed just right on my new Ender3 V2, I was using the disable steppers for quite a while until I found CHEPS original version of this gcode. This makes a lot of sense to why I had so much trouble at first !
I've had my Ender 3 V2 for 2 weeks. I have had some "hit and miss" printing results; the first 2 test prints (Cat and benchy) were beautiful and smooth using the white PLA that came with the printer! Then I started trying to print some D&D miniatures; disaster. Many UA-cam videos later (and assorted print results) and I see this one pop up - possibly the best explanation and on par with CHEP Filament Friday. Good work on your first video. Looking forward to your future postings.
A tip with miniatures is to back off the temperature a bit for a smooth finish and print at the lowest layer height you can like 0.1 mm. PLA normally prints around 180c, try 175c instead and make sure the parts cooling fan is on and is set to something kind of high like 60% or more and tell the slicer to print really slow like 20mm per minute. You should print at that lower temperature because the parts on a mini are small and overheat easily and melt and any excess hot material is pushed to the side leaving a rough surface and you don't want that. Also if you are using cura as your slicer set the number of top layers to a ridiculously high number like 600,000 and the printer will be tricked to put a good top finish on all the layers. Hope you have fun.
@@jeremiahembs5343 More great tips and much appreciated. Thank you!
Hey, same with my Ender 3 V2! The sample PLA printed beautifully, but now the printer wont behave, I have problems with first layer adhesion and the extrusion doesn't look as pretty anymore. Any tips to share?
Before I found this video, I had almost rage quit. I was going crazy trying to level my bed, sometimes making 10 attempts to level. This makes it easy enough to do in one try.
Thank you for the help!
I AM SO GLAD THAT THERE IS FINALLY A PERSON OUT THERE THAT CANT ***** LEVEL THE BED THE NORMAL WAY. thank you sooooo much for this.
This helped my prints straight away, Thank you I was stressing out thinking my printer was faulty but it was just bad bed levelling
The concept explanation in this video is spot on! The gcode file didn't work for me, but I was able to do the steps by manually using the X and Y move functions on the Ender 3 v2 to level my bed. This video is definitely going to be my recommendation for bed levelling.
Seems like you might not be the only one. I would like to look into this, but currently don't have the time...
It depends on the firmware you're on. I was on Marlin-2.0.1-BL-Touch - V1.1.1 and it wasn't working for me. The Z-axis wasn't moving down for some reason. Anyhow i downgraded to Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.0.2 (Factory Firmware) and it works perfectly now.
Just got my first printer and this was the first method I found for leveling and I'm glad I did. Never have had leveling hiccups, at least not serious ones.
There is simply people who is good making videos. You are one of those people.
Thanks, this saved my sanity. After rebuilding the printer from scratch and making everything square and tight i no longer had z binding issues and the x gantry was moving every time i leveled. (had perfect leveling before) Sooooo after making the printer better the levelling issues got worse until i stopped disabling the stepper motors, Now i'm leveling with a sheet of tin foil.
Your video, along with some helpful comments, made my bed leveling troubles melt away! I greatly appriciate your take on this, and I will be looking forward for more great videos!
Hi, I watched your video and your bed leveling script helped me! It makes the process just a bit more easy and fast.
Even though I already got the hang of levelling/tramming, this simplifies it a lot.
After a couple of days I added a bit of code to heat the bed and nozzle. It might help with the accuracy of leveling. The nozzle only to 150C to prevent filament drooping.
I used the code I normaly get when I slice a model with Cura and just added it to the start of the Gcode file after the title/aknowledgements. Here it is:
M140 S45 ; Set Bed Temperature
M105 ; Report Temperatures
M190 S45 ; Wait for Bed Temperature
M104 S150 ; Set Hotend Temperature
M105 ; Report Temperatures
M109 S150 ; Wait for Hotend Temperature
I love this! I've been Leveling my bed using the Move functions in Marlin rather than disabling the steppers for the exact reason you've so plainly explained here! Now I can use the Gcode you've created to make the process so much simpler!
Ironically enough, the BL Touch I bought will arrive today from UPS.
*sigh*
Great job!
I love the well reasoned explanation for your method, and the simple brilliance of the g-code script, I can't believe I didn't think to write my own g-code!
Thank you so much for this. In retrospect, it's obvious why disabling the steppers is a bad idea, but it hadn't occurred to me at the time, and is probably why I could never get the bed level. After following your advice it's good, it stays good, and most of the problems I've had printing have disappeared. I knew the bed wasn't level, but I was going crazy trying to level it. Using your gcode made it so much easier.
Excellent video. Great metodology, you answered one of question I had (How high must I lvl the bed?) and thanks for the gcode. I assembled my Ender 3 V2 yesterday. My 1st 3d printer experience. This videos would've been super useful.
Thanks a lot for the gcode. Its brilliant.
6 subs is an absurd. Your channel will grow a lot soon.
Thanks! Glad you found it useful! It's my first video, so I think youtube is still trying to figure out my audience... And I am figuring out youtube - the views went up a lot after I just added some search tags to the video.
@@3dprintingweirdness629 aged like wine. not milk though. it just got better. (41.3k views. 370 subs. 1k likes. Zero dislikes!)
Thank you so much for uploading and sharing that gcode file. I had been struggling with my printer for a few days and could not get the thing to level well. 1 attempt with your process and I finally have a successful print. I look forward to seeing what else you put out there.
May I know where can I get this gcode? thank you
ALRIGHT SIR, you just earned yourself a like and a sub. The Gcode file was extremely helpful and made the process a lot easier. Additionally, the suggestion to get paper under the extruder while maintaining friction was exactly what I needed to get the PLA to stick to the plate.
seriously, thank you from the bottom of my heart.
Thanks to youtube algorithms for giving me this video. And thank you for the gcode, I find it very helpful, bed leveling just got a lot easier and faster!
From a fellow South African, it was so cool looking for a Gcode instead of disabling of steppers to see that this was one of the top hit videos, well done dude!!! #3dprintingSA
this is amazing gcode, so far my first layer using this g code is going great. This almost completely eliminates the need for an 'automatic' bed level like BLtouch.
After couple of big failures with my print
I used the move function instead of desabling the steppers
The lvlong was perfect
Thanks alot for that information
Didnt even think about that
AMAZING!!
was having so many problems with levelling and the stepper motor mistake many times, thank you for the video and gcode!
This worked well for me, thanks! It's much faster than manually moving the extruder around too.
Dude! I love you! At last i'm able to print nicely! It was that Z axis that was messing up my leveling! Thank you!
Pure genius.
The moment of joy watching my 3 V2 automatically go from corner to corner and not having to carefully push and pull the bed and head.
I also made use of the CNTR file to check if my bed was warped.
Thanks.
yeah this helped me see that my bed was warped
Ive had mine for a week! (early fathers day present). Great video, my only add would be to check the rollers on the y axis. Mine were a bit loose, allowed the bed a bit of movement which was messing with me being able to acheive a good nozzle height. Super handy g code!!!!
Interesting, mine were too tight again at the beginning. But good to know the opposite is also problematic!
Using the original firmware on my newly purchased Ender 3 V2, but when I try to use this, it doesn't stop at each point and pause. It just goes to the first point, then back home. If I hit print again, it goes to the second point, then back home. It won't sit at each corner long enough to take any measurements with paper etc.
YOU . CHANGED. MY. WHOLE. LIFE. thank you so much ily
Amazing video, helped me solve a problem. I was having (Z height was changing when I was leveling causing me a lot of pita)! Keep more videos coming!
Amazing thought process there man. I’m sold.
Clear explanations and the knowledge is solid :) This was the method I've used before switching firmwares, only with a feeler gauge now, and setting z offset higher at the start and then lowering it back.
Hopefully you'll continue making videos ^_^
New user of Ender 3, glad I picked this as my first vid.
The good thing is that the print head will always be in the same position at all 4 corners.
Great video, thank you.
Great video! Finally gave me a consistent way to level. Thanks for the G-code, it saves so much time.
One thing I noticed is that using the thin sticker paper caused my nozzle to print too close to the bed. I configured my flow and extrusion rate a while ago so those shouldn't be the cause. Using thicker paper solved it though and gives me really flat first layers
Jyers firmware version will save your time hefty more than gcode. Check it out
@@CTZN1 so where do I go for the better one
i tried using the gcode in the description, and my printer was not giving me the option to pause the print once the nozzel was at the right height. anyway i could fix that?
Yeah, disabling stepper motors is actually a bad idea.
One thing I would suggest is to get those *yellow compression springs* , because it will make huge difference and will drastically reduce need for leveling. I was procrastinating this for a while, but as soon as I installed those babies... Life just got better.
P.S I don't use BLTouch.
so glad i watched this. I have a BL touch, and it's a nice feature. But nothing beats a properly well leveled bed.
Holy Crap man thank you!!!! Hopefully it still works well because I have been looking for a "simpler" way to level the bed!!!
Okay, that made things so much easier! Just wow! Now, I only wish it worked with my Aquila... I tried it out, and it just kept zooming around the bed, and stopped at random corners. Completely ignored me trying to manually pause it too. I'm sure it must be some little tweak I can administer, but at this juncture, I don't know enough of G-code to work it out. Haha! Amazing work, thank you so much!
Yeah, you can open the gcode in basically any text editor (Notepad++ works well) and make the changes there. The problem is most likely with the pause command. Search for what the g-code pause command is for your printer and do a find-replace in the gcode.
1..-ilion thnks Man u made my new (😅) year !!! this WORKED PERFECTLY 5min and u are done *no more adhesive or warping problems !!!!!!
*the best thing before BL-Touch ...and FREE
Greetings from Greece ❤
Thank you so much! you've made leveling that much quicker, accurate and easier for me! 🤩🤩
Most helpful video ever!!! Saved me from giving up on 3d printing
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for this! it helped me pull off my very first print!
the gcode is life i got it down even better than before video deserves more attention
You should tram the bed to the same parameters as printing; this includes heating the nozzle and bed to printing temps. The expansion of brass and the bed from heat is sufficient enough to undo the tramming process done on a cold system.
As for everything else, its excellent. You have to be careful when using disable steppers
Ay frllow south african 3D printer enthusiast, thanks for the tips
Instead of leveling the corners individually it is better to level the middle point BETWEEN the corners using two knobs at once turning them the same or opposite directions simultaneously until they provide even pressure. Start in the middle nearest you and you can move the print head just to one side or the other of that center line to check which knob, right or left, is the one that needs adjustment up or down and then turn them both opposite directions simultaneously until they are even. Do that again along far side of the printer and then along each side. It's much faster and you will approach a perfect level the whole bed more easily as the bed surface is tilting rather than creating a single pressure point at any one corner. This is especially important when using glass to prevent cracking. It's also more important to get the area near the center of the bed correctly gapped than the actual corners or edges because most of your printing will be done near the center of the bed. So the imaginary points you want to check most carefully should be along an imaginary square much smaller than the actual width and length build volume of the bed and more towards the center. Unless you are using the entire width and length of the bed the actual corners aren't very important, but the area near the center always is.
The problem with this is you as a human can't really turn both corners the exact same distance, nor can you know if both corners are at the same exact height to begin with.
@@Jorvalt Yeah that's true, but also why we use feeler gauges like a piece of paper or thin metal under the warm nozzle and bed between the nozzle and the bed. That resistance we can feel when moving the gauge under the nozzle helps us to feel the distance between the two with some degree of accuracy. The accuracy is enough to be within the movement tolerance of the machine which is theoretically no greater than 0.1mm and practically speaking is probably even less accurate than that.
this is awesome, had my bed level in no time, thanks.
Yes this was awesome!
I do something close to this.
I have the CR Touch, which I ended up using mainly to get a more precise z axis zero point relative to the x/y home point on the bed.
I then use the Move prepare function to adjust the x,y,z to what I want the gap to be.
I first move the Z until I get the necessary gap. I note this for my z offset, but don't set the offset yet.
Then i use the x & y move controls to each of the corners, raising the z first a bit so I don't hit the bed as I move, incase the bed is too high in a particular corner. Then bring the z down when I am at the corner, adjusting the level knob until I reach the target offset height based on a piece of paper.
You can then set your offset, fine tuning it as needed.
With paper as the gauge, indeed you have an actual 0.1 offset, but you can counter that with the offset setting.
I'm going to try setting the offset closer to zero from the bed and see if that improves prints at all or causes symptoms of being too close.
Question though: I am using eSun PLA+ filament and I can't get proper 1st level print when I use Cura at super quality (0.12) height thickness.even though the setting for that profile is supposed to print the first layer at standard 0.2. The ender display shows the beginning of the print is actually 0.1. I've tried compensating with z offset but if I go any lower than my original setting, it is clearly too low with extrusion smeared or missing. Any higher than found setting and it doesn't stick and I get pulling of laid down tracks at turns.
Ideas?
What you are suggesting works, however, I personally preheat, home and using the move option on the printer to move the printer to say X and y 20;20, 20;200, 200;200, 200;20, 110;110.... I do this with the z drive at 0.1 or 0.2mm (depending on the feeler Guage I'm using), I di this 3 or 4 times, and it's done..... maybe my way is wrong, but it works for me... I have many years of experience in the cnc field, routers, lasers, lathes, mills, and now printers.
I'm new to 3D printing, and initially, tramming was my biggest issue. Now, if my print fails, the first thing I do is tram, and the process takes less than 5 minutes. I last trammed 100 to 150 prints ago.
This fixed my printer. But i also discovered isopropyl alchol clean of the glass helps a little as well. +1 sub for the awesome video and file
Great video! It really helps me understand leveling well. There is one thing with my printer that I'm not sure about though, where the wheels/screws under the bed keep coming loose when I turn them clockwise. Is this normal or how do I fix it?
best leveling video on ender 3 v2!
Thankyou mate , its really work ,and i got lucky , the Gcode is working well with mine
You can also : preheat pla, auto home, rise the bed untill nozzle touches then move the z axis up 0.1, now use a feller gage 0.06 (0.1 if cold) to level. This way you will have true 0.0 home!!! Carefull tho, you will scratch your plate/nozzle if you move the axis while trully at 0,0 position.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
I always use the move command, didn't have any successful prints until I levelled it this way
Your comment highlights the exact problem I'm describing yes! And using the move command is much better! But the gcode just automates the process to make it a bit easier and faster to level the bed.
First class tried multiple videos on why first layer wasnt sticking leveled the bed multipule times no luck downloaded your gcode leveled the bed and bingo 1st time Thanks
Great explanation of the phenomenon, thank you for the video.
Great video, thanks for doing this.
I just tried your GCODE and found it didn't work on my Ender 3 V2. However I substituted " M0; M108;" for the "M25;" command and found it worked perfectly. The M25 command on my machine pauses then returns home
Great video and simple to understand , i want to see more video
Excellent video, thanks for this
im having this problem where my knob to level the bed just stops when i try leveling it down.
I cannot seem to get the paper method to work for me. It always leaves the nozzle way too close to the bed when printing. It's still way too close even if I fold the paper in fourths. It just squishes and burns the filament to the bed which is of course hard to get off.
Wonderful video. Instead of rehashing the same things that everyone says, using gcode to move the head and bed is a far better idea, and this is an excellent implementation. My only question is why didn't you preheat the bed first? If you intended for people to use the "Prepare PLA" option (or "prepare ABS"), then I'd agree with your comments about not having the hotend hot, lest filament ooze out, which means that this is not a good idea.
Just another comment: Works perfect for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Solved so many issues I had.
I found your g-code very helpful. However, when running, it always takes the nozzle back to the "home" corner of the bed (lower left). It goes to each subsequent corner, but never stays there. It always returns to the home corner before pausing. Has anyone else had this issue? I can still test with the paper, but I have to be quick before it heads "home". thanks
Yeah, I also have this issue
Good idea and well explained, though the music is a challenge.
Thanks for your video, always nice to see people willing to contribute and advise. That said.......if you only level the 4 corners how do you compensate for the centre where 'most' 3v2 users seem to have issues. My bed is warped in the centre, so levelling the corners does nothing for the centre where most prints are situated.
Nice comment! Granted, the method I show will not *necessarily result in a centre that is also level. I also have quite a warped bed (like a 0.3mm dip in the centre) and to me it seems that most warped beds have the "warpness"/dip in the centre only (I may be totally wrong here). Nevertheless, what worked for me (I'm sure there's a better way, but maybe not much easier) is to level the bed as in the video with the NRML gcode at the four corners (it's in my opinion still important to first get "radially symmetric warpness") and then run the CNTR gcode - now you can compare centre vs corners heights of nozzle above bed. If you find (like me) that the paper/sticker is quite difficult to move at the corners, but it doesn't even touch at the centre, set your z-offset to around -0.2mm (experiment with the number) if your printing only in the centre (I've even had great results with like -0.16mm with large prints that go to the edges).
I found this same problem! i have the V2 and it is my 1st introduction to 3d printing. It was a HUGE challenge to get my 1st print from bed leveling to the bed NOT STICKING AT ALL!!!!! I found a video from some dragon guy on here and it has a full 4 cycles of motion to get the paper under to level and it works great!! Then I tried a few glues and spays but nothing! I then used blue painters tape and have been printing all week...
I'm unable to stop the nozzle it just goes around with out stopping. I don't even have a second to press pause and when I do nothing happens
Huh, when running your gcode, my printer auto-homes, and then tries to move the Z axis lower than where the z-limiter switch is sitting, which ends up grinding against the plate. I think it cracked my z-limiter plate? What am I doing wrong here?
My problem is everyone's glass bed is clean and i cant get the old filament residue off mine
Thank you! Will definitely try this. Could you please make that video on the z-stop?
Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer.
I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while it's making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait that long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted.
Thanks in advance 🤗
i cleaned my plate with isopropal alchohal and my prints wont stick.
should i use hand sanitizer specifically because the residue serves the same purpose as glue used by others?
For some reason my printer slowly moves back after it should stop. How can i fix that?
So you level your printer cold? I've always heard to do it with the nozzle and bed hot. Any thoughts?
it doesn't work on my ender 3 v2. if i click print it goes to the place but instantly goes back to the starting position
I saw your video on this subject, i tried the gcode works for front left then back left it raises up and beeps at me 2nd issue back left i cant even get a piece of paper under the nozel with even the knob completely tight. any suggestions?
im having an issue where the head keeps going toward home after it goes to the area when i press start / pause. It centers to the area it should but immediately starts moving back towards home.
Subbed for this extremely helpful video.
3x3 mesh leveling is awesome for me now, the BL i sold :-)
Excellent procedure. Alternatively, for newbies unfamiliar with gcode installations, Would it be possible to leave the steppers enabled, unplug the bed stepper motor so it can move, and then proceed with the leveling?
Hmm, interesting suggestion - I'm always curious, so I'll test out unplugging the steppers (will have to be the x and y axes) when I get back to my ender 3v2 in bout 3 weeks (currently at university). That being said, I wouldn't word my procedure as a gcode "installation" - you simply put a file on an SD card and run it on the printer. It's even simpler than printing something as you don't have to slice the stl file to create a gcode file. But from a compatibility and perhaps simplicity standpoint it could prove a bulletproof method of levelling to just unplug the x & y steppers (after auto homing of course) - but as I said I will have to research and test it 👍
@@3dprintingweirdness629 Running the gcode is easier than I though if it's just executing it off of the SD. Either way, an interesting experiment. When my printer arrives next Wednesday I'll give both a try myself. My current delta printer won't help with this experiment unfortunately. lol Thanks!
@@3dprintingweirdness629 My idea to unplug the stepper motor was pretty dumb. Newb mistake. Running the gcode off of the card is very simple and straightforward. In case anyone finds it useful, I gave your code a try on my Voxelab Aquila and it didn't work quite right. Anyway, I like your idea of not disabling the Z stepper for the calibration. Thanks!
Thank you!!!!! This works great! Very easy.
My ender 3 v2 neo goes back to the first corner when paused, any solution ?
Fantastic video 👍👍👍
I would love to know, how printing quality changed for you after having your nozzle that low down compared to your leveling before that.
I can imagine, the nozzle digging into your bed, cause it can extend a fair bit if it's hot.
HELP please :(
I have an Ender 3 v2 and I can’t get a single perfect print. I’ve made a couple decent ones but they all have a weird mistakes on them but I’ve seen people with the same printer have better prints. I literally spend hours leveling the bed and it’s driving me crazy.
I’ll adjust one side barely and then each side is messed up and I keep repeating the 4 corners for an hour until it’s good enough, not even great.
Using the gcode you gave made it a little bit easier but it still takes forever. And worst of all every time I stop and think I’m done, I press print on the same Gcode again just to double check but the extruded pushes the paper all the way to the point I can’t move it so I have to do it all over again.
This is so frustrating and i can’t get a single good print out. I’ve had this printer for months so now i barely touch it.
I really hope I’m the problem and there’s some good explanation for this.
in both Gcodes i see the pause print option however my printer doesnt stop/pause. does anyone know how to fix?
wont work for me iv tried both files and it wont stop when i try pause it just goes back to home some reason, :(
I assembled the ender and took it apart twice and the hotbed side closer to the control panel is still higher than the other side
When I have leveled my bed and I want to start a print it automatically moves up
Great video, thank you.