So Matt, when you went to create the height of your concentric line, how do you know how far over on the bottom line to start your radial line? Did I miss that?
befmx31, sorry, that's not too clear in the video. At ua-cam.com/video/ykzQurvEqOo/v-deo.html I basically just 'wing it' by judging my tape is square to a chord line of the first arc. This might be hard to follow but I'll give it a shot. First draw a straight line on the concave side of the first arc... think of the arc as an archer's bow and the straight line (chord) as the bowstring. Find the center point of that line regardless of it's length and draw a 2nd line perpendicular to it from that center point. That perpendicular line is a 'radial' line that would continue to the center of the arc/circle. Do one of these as near to the ends of the first arc as you can. Measure the distance to the nail for the 2nd arc along that line. The closer you can make the midpoint of the chord to the ends of the first arc the wider/longer your 2nd arc can be drawn. I winged it for this whole process by 'eyeballing' the mark on my tape measure so that it was placed as a very short chord of the first arc. Hope this helps. Considering your comment I now wish I'd have included this process in the video. Best, Matt
@@befmx31 the method is basic geometry so you might find a better 'lesson' in a geometry textbook. BTW I've always felt a good grasp of geometry in general is a huge plus for carpenters since pretty much every aspect of building stuff is based on its principals. This is going to sound like bragging but decent knowledge of geometry has always given me a 'leg up' when working on any jobsite or with any crew. "In the land of the blind a one-eyed man is King! 😀😎 Best, Matt
Furniture designer and builder for over 35 years and i've never seen this method. This old dog has learned plenty of new tricks on your channel. Thanks Matt.
@@saywhaat8933 it can be a pretty rewarding career, but, like anything, has its drawbacks. But at least the work itself is usually the best part... Best, Matt
Marion, A friend helped me find some very old neglected comments hiding out on Next Level Carpentry... so a belated 'thank you' for your comment... hope you're still watching videos here? Best, Matt
Phil, thanks for commenting! I can imagine how helpful this could be for building scenery with the crazy variety of projects you must encounter. As with most of Next Level Carpentry tutorials the methods shown can be extrapolated to accomplish all sorts of radical applications. I've drawn very wide (+/- 10') , very shallow (6" or so) arcs with this method with great results but needed to use 4"wide strips of heavy gauge sheetmetal for the 'arms'. I might have used strips of 1/8" plywood but it only comes 8' long. The sheetmetal is stiffer, thinner and slides across the nails better than wood. . You get the idea, I'm sure. Have fun adapting and applying :-)
Mat, thanks for the reply and all the details concerning the Delta Unisaw guide fence. I have Powematic table say with an adequate Biesmeyer fence, but I like how the Unisaw is made. I wish it could adapt to my saw. Thanks again. Mike
Another excellent tip. One note when measuring the second set of points [5:11], the radial measurement being done is basically aiming at an imaginary center of a giant circle from its perimeter.
Very nice method. I'll use it for the gate I'm building now. And the tip at 5:05 saved me a headache--and some plywood. :P Thanks for another great video.
My pleasure, Ed! I appreciate that you're subscribed to Next Level Carpentry and add some of these videos to your Liked Videos playlist! I'm excited about an upcoming series showing how and why to build 3 types of sawhorses: "The Apprentice" the "Journeyman" and the "Master Carpenter"... hope you get a chance to check them out and/or comment when they're uploaded. Best, Matt
Mike, thanks so much for asking about this... I'd SO much rather be working on the sawhorse series instead of the current project I'm working on but just can't devote the time to producing the videos that it takes to complete and upload them. The first Apprentice Sawhorse video is about 80% complete but work and life are so fast-paced just now that I just can't seem to get the remaining 20% done. I really appreciate your patience on this and believe the videos will be well worth the wait in the end. You seem to be observant and so may have noticed NLC cleared 25K subscribers lately. That's very significant to me and gives me great hope that within the next 9~12 months I can make this Channel my primary focus and my carpentry business secondary... a very real possibility with 'dedicated' subscribers like you! Best, Matt
Thanks for the vote of confidence and for subscribing, Bruce! My goal is to share the 'quality knowledge' you mention but some get bucked off by this video: ua-cam.com/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/v-deo.html If you can hang on during that ride I believe you'll find other 'quality knowledge' at Next Level Carpentry
Lee, thanks for you assessment of the video... I certainly hope many others agree with you on its usefulness :-) Seems to me that some law of attraction comes into play with newfound knowledge like this and that, before long, you'll find yourself confronted with a project that requires you to put this to use. I predict it will go well for you!
Thanks Edward, for commenting, subscribing and adding Next Level Carpentry videos to your 'Liked Videos' playlist... that tells me you really DO think it's worth watching which I appreciate! I don't do a very good job of pointing it out but everything you see in videos on this Channel is stuff I use on a regular basis to earn a respectable living in my custom design/build carpentry business so you can be assured that it's not some contrived DIY stuff without value in the real world :-) Best, Matt
Hi Matt. Great technique. But what would be even more interesting is how you mortice and tenon the vertical slats into the underside of that curved rail. It's something I've been puzzling over for months.
Wish I had time to put that in a video Philip because it really is a sweet process. The secret, in a nutshell, is to do all your layout and mortising BEFORE you cut the curves. If you do the curve last, the rest of the joinery is greatly simplified... not easy by any stretch... but much simpler! Best, Matt
Thanks Tim... A friend helped me find some very old neglected comments hiding out on Next Level Carpentry... so a belated 'thank you' for your comment... hope you're still watching videos here? Best, Matt
This is a great technique to use/know. I've only used math/trammel/square etc., to loft arc's. Trust you've seen LeeValley small brass discs" used to loft lines in parallel to a pattern? A 7/8ths diameter "wheel" with a pencil in the middle....rolls along a pattern and draws a line 7/16ths out from it (as an example). Useful in many instances. Great video!
Neal, I like the idea of using those discs for drawing parallel/concentric lines... I've seen them but have always used a different method, generally a small block, for the same purpose. A block is easy to cut to exact length but is awkward to use on convex curves and inaccurate for concave ones... I'll add this to my bag of tricks for future use! Matt
You'll love the LeeValley little drafting discs, especially since they are round, lofting in total parallel is guaranteed. I've made large (thin) plywood disc. for bigger offsets when I could not easily re-swing a radius--using the same principal.
I have just come across this video and it has brought me such joy that you use such a simple system to achieve something very complicated. . You should have many more views and subscribers that you have! You also presented it in such a friendly manner. Thank you so much for sharing this and I look forward to watching all the videos on your channel
Marios, Glad you found Next Level Carpentry and liked this video. It takes such an effort for this dyed in the wool carpenter to record, produce and upload videos that you can bet any content that makes it through that wearying process is something I'm passionate about :-) This arc drawing method is an example of one 'trick' that is invaluable to me and my work. If you DO end up browsing NLC for more videos may I recommend 'How to Draw an Elliptical Curve Without Math or String': ua-cam.com/video/Jjh_ZRhfnDY/v-deo.html&index=16&list=PLh_GOwrHv4WU14QGS5xvTgiyvT0FWMn8a and the fun but less pragmatic 'How to Draw a Circle... With a Square!?': ua-cam.com/video/xZaGCUeSQAM/v-deo.html A large part of the 'views and subscribers' thing you mention is that I struggle with the technology it takes to build a more dynamic online presence. The last thing I want is artificially produced traffic generation because I personally think it leads only to illegitimate, watered down content. That being the case I GREATLY appreciate any activity viewers like yourself generate. Best regards, Matt Jackson
I appreciate your video most of the arcs I do are in furniture and I can just use my beam compass for them but I’ll remember this method if I have to make a large one
Peter, Any time you can get a compass to work it's a lot more straight forward, isn't it? One thing I like about this method is that I don't have to know the radius ahead of time and can just use width and rise of the arc to get it drawn... quick and easy. Not that finding radius is so difficult but I like simple when possible. Best, Matt
Peter; Thank you muchly! With 45+ years in carpentry and about 4 in video production the 'very well presented' part of your compliment is the most gratifying :-) Tips are EASY compared to the struggles I encounter with video production :-) Best regards, Matt
Thanks, Rick! Unfortunately, I don't have anything showing the mortising process. A good friend of mine has an excellent Powermatic hollow chisel mortiser in his shop and generously allows me to use it whenever I ask. It makes quick and perfect work of chopping the numerous large, deep mortises that make these gates so sturdy and durable. I think I mention in the video that there's quite a bit of Next Level Carpentry involved in building the gates and would really love to do a build video for them someday. I'm afraid though that it won't happen unless and until I have some sort of video production team in place because, sadly, as I've said in other comments, it takes me MANY more hours to produce a video than it ever does to do the actual work. I do have aspirations for getting to the point where this channel can justify and support a production crew so that I can focus on just doing the work part without the distraction and exasperation of video production. Good news is that with activity from engaged viewer/subscribers like you taking Next Level Carpentry to the next level is a real possibility! WHEW... that's a long answer when a simple 'no' might have been sufficient :-) Matt
Tried the bending a thin wood strip thing...works in a pinch but can be inaccurate, moreso when the bend is tighter. This is a much better method! Thank you Sir.
I know what you mean Brandt... the bent stick usually makes an arc with flattened ends. Have fun with this one... after you use it a time or two it goes really quick! Best, Matt
Thanks, Willy, Yours is the sort of comment that keeps me energized for building this channel... I'm guessing we both learned most of what we know (plus everything we've already forgotten :-) by watching, learning and doing. Thanks... keep working smart and safe!!
Hi Matt you bet I will It was a long time I know there was a method of doing it but ne er found out how. Thanks to you now I do . So thanks again and keep up. The interesting things you do. I’m sure they also bring personal satisfaction I know I do . Cheers. Dave
Thanks David... Not only do interesting things bring personal satisfaction but sharing those things with appreciative people like you brings at least an equal measure! Best, Matt
Been there, done that too, Ted! Always nice to stumble across a better, faster, more accurate... and less embarrassing way to do things, isn't it?! As always, thanks for commenting... Best, Matt
Thanks for sharing. Just went to my brother in law recently to learn how to cut an arch. Wish I had found this before then. I got it done but would have like to have tried this method...lol
You're welcome, Wanda... I'll look forward to hearing how it goes when you go back to bro-in-law and show HIM how to cut an arch... could be interesting, right? 😁😎 Best, Matt
wow very cool jig! also liked the pencil sharping video...great channel... thank you so much sir for paying it forward and taking my skills to the next level... cheers! tim providence, r.i.
acusticsix, Glad you like and anticipate using some Next Level Carpentry stuff for your skillset... knowing it's getting used is reward for sharing it... thanks!
I don't have a video specific to making the arch from that template but it's the same process you'll see me use if you search out the video how to cut decorative ends on pergola joist at Next Level carpentry. I basically Trace out the Curve on the piece of wood and then band saw or jigsaw it to rough shape and then finish up by using a router with the template to cut the curve profile perfectly. Hope that helps.?
So Matt... I just thought of this... if, for example, the width of the arc, is the same as the width of your sticks, will it come out right if you just moved the pencil to the outside of the sticks and draw another line? Just wondering. Thanks.
Interesting idea Raul... Great comment!! Thinking about here and now it makes me think it would work great! Might take a little planning to get it the right width but the concept gets me thinking that it might work to add an extra stick of some sort to the center point because it would be faster and more accurate than re-setting the nails and sticks... Best, Matt
Hi Matt Follow and enjoy all your great videos I was just checking if you have any details available for the gates used in your How to Draw Arcs for woodworking projects as these would look great on our new home in Australia Thanks again & keep up your great content Best Regards Mark Read
Hey Mark, are you a SketchUp user by any chance? If so I could send you a copy of the SketchUp file I used for designing/planning these gates. Other than that I didn't do any video work of the actual build. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Hi Matt Thanks for your prompt reply The sketch up file would be great Just so I could work out material size’s & a cutting list, height of side rails & profile of the rounded tops Much appreciated and Thanks again We’re looking forward to more great content 👍🏻👏👏👏 Best Regards Mark Read
Instead of 1/2 lap short block can be added cross them. Also the stick butting up to the other one needs to be cut on sharp angle so inside corner can be created
Two follow-on questions: 1. What's your recommended method for actually creating the template (material, tools, etc.)? 2. Which bit(s) do you recommend for routing the stock? Many thanks, as always, Matt.
Sure, John: 1. I create most all my pattern-routing templates using the same process that I do making the template and pushsticks in this video: ua-cam.com/video/8h4OJHhSH8A/v-deo.html which is pretty much layout the template, cut slightly proud of the line and then dial it down using sandpaper. With a little practice you might be amazed at how quick and accurate this is BTW I thought I read something in your comment earlier about your switching to CNC for templates... looks like you edited that out but it's a great point so I'll respond anyways. With easy access to a CNC fabricator it's pretty tough not to justify the relatively minor cost for CNC templating for this sort of stuff and, I'd guess, it's more cost effective and accurate. This is a great alternative in a pinch or even if you just want to stick with rotary dial phone technology to shake it up a bit 🙄😁😎 2. I use the monster 1/2" shank TOP bearing flush trim bit used in the Pergola Joist video: ua-cam.com/video/0TI7AV8HdXI/v-deo.html or something very similar. Takes a pretty robust, sharp bit and serious router for profiling 1 1/2" stock like the gate rails but it's totally doable. I like to use Whiteside router bits for most things but included a link to a similar flush trim bit on the Next Level Carpentry Amazon page to give you an idea of what I'm talking about here. www.amazon.com/dp/B0006G82J4/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d Hope this helps... Best, Matt
Thanks Sean! I don't have a video for building these gates but if you check out my Professional Pushsticks video you'll see the templating method I used to make the curved rails on the gates. You may be surprised by how LITTLE sanding is involved! I mention in other videos how much I hate sanding and show methods I use to avoid it. BTW check out the How to Make Wide Coves video too, if you have time, as it shows how to make custom sanding blocks for sanding special curves. Best, Matt
Awesome guidance. Thanks. I'm planning some gates with a dip (bulge) much like you've depicted, but I'd like to have the wood continue after the dip across at a right angle on each side of the gate to where the top hinges will be mounted. My theory is that having a single monolithic piece of wood bearing the hinges and then defining the arc might help with strength and to resist sagging. Does my idea hold water? Or, is it best simply to face the arc'ed pieces against the vertical wood that bears the hinge? I have a picture of what I want that I could email if that helps.
How can I search for a specific how to do for example of full ellipse not just the half. Or how to cut an unequal picture of for instance. Do you have a search box where we can type in
Unfortunately I'm not that organized John... answers to some of your questions are given in other videos here at Next Level Carpentry but no content inventory is. Best, Matt
Hi Matt again it's John heckmeister can you please do me a favor and provide me something that shows me how to cut an unequal pitch roof say an 812 intersecting into a 1012 like building up of a corner and shifting the hip instructions there's several other ways of doing it and I'm confused common roofs common hips all day long every which way but for some reason shifting The hip throws me way off including the cuts on the jack rafters one being steeper one being shallower where's all that math come from 90 of course but I'm getting mixed up please help
@@johnhachmeister5281 all I have to address that sort of questions is this three-part series I did using SketchUp on The Digital Jobsite, my other Channel on UA-cam: ua-cam.com/video/we-BHy7ANY0/v-deo.html It might help you understand factors at play in that complex roof configuration you're asking about. Good luck! Best, Matt
Matt, l find that your guide fence for your table saw is quite unique. My question is did it come with your saw or did you purchase it as an additional peace of upgrade? Mike
What you see on my table saw is a Delta unifence that came with the saw when it was brand new in 1982. It was a real game-changer for rip fences compared to the old models that slide back and forth on a pipe but has since been upgraded to the Biesmeyer Style that is so prevalent today. It's a very accurate fence with excellent features but I think if I was replacing it I would probably go with a different design that has the two sided raill rather than one side only like what I have. Best, Matt
Garrett, Almost like cheatin', isn't it? There's a couple variations on this method shown on videos by others but it's a tough method to beat! Hope you get a chance to apply it to one of your projects soon...
Next Level Carpentry haha right?? There is a trick I learned in my algebra class with string and two nails but it would be all wonky with a large arch/ellipse such as this. The sticks, I imagine, are inspired by this, no? Great stuff sir!
Garrett, I'm sure there's a mathematical correlation between the nails & string and sticks somewhere... my high-school math teachers would be disappointed to know I've forgotten anything they taught me about it though :-( The principal of using a string, in theory, (string theory for carpentry?!) is valid although in practice any stretch in the string makes for unsatisfactory results. I've thought that in a pinch if a piece of thin wire was used it might avoid some inaccuracies compared to string but would likely just cause others. That's why I tend to stick with sticks
You made a 4' arc. You noted how long your sticks would be to get a 6' or 8' arc. Could you just move the 4' pattern to the left and right to scribe an 8' arc?
SJH, Don't wait until you find something to make with an arc in it... just find a scrap sheet of something and draw some arcs on it :-) Nothing like running through the steps to cement the trick into your memory for when that arc project arrives!
+Next Level Carpentry I'm tempted! Keep up the great work, have enjoyed learning from you so far, many thanks (ps really keen to get a magnetic upholstery hammer now!)
SJH, In this world of ubiquitous air nailers, brad nailers, staplers and such it's noteworthy that there's STILL a place in the shop for that little magnetic hammer, isn't it? Keep an eye out at garage sales or in Grandpa's old toolbox for one of the little gems. Failing that, here's a bit of shameless self-promotion: you'll find an option for just such a hammer on the Amazon Influencer's page in the video description... juss sayin' :-) Either way I've found that a bit of filing on the split/magnetic end of the hammer is sometimes necessary. It can make all the difference in its usefulness by making sure that the flat surfaces of the split head are co-planer. Make sense? You'll wonder how you ever did without one... Regards, Matt
+Next Level Carpentry I quite agree Matt! I've had my grandad's hand-mitre saw for 10 years now, and have used it for every angled cut in our flat (skirting board included), not as precise as a machine and five times the effort but hey! And nothing wrong with a bit of self-promotion, you deserve all the props you get :) Best, Sam
Right you are, Gerald! Even though I can easily pull a radius measurement from a 3D SketchUp design model it's much easier to lay them out using this method than using a 2x1 to draw it. Best, Matt
Hi Gerald, It would be difficult to control a router set up on the 1x4 because cutting action would make the router move forcefully in the cutting direction. In the video I cut the pattern with a bandsaw and rough out the workpiece on the bandsaw also. The final step is to use a router with a flush trim bit that follows the pattern and shapes the piece. Even though there's a few more steps it is very accurate, pretty simple and actually very efficient for limited production applications. Best, Matt
I like the way you think, Gerry! Gotta make it easy on yourself because no one is gonna do it for you, right? BTW This video shows how the flush trim router bit works when used with a similar pattern: ua-cam.com/video/0TI7AV8HdXI/v-deo.html Best, Matt
Brilliant ,totally agree with all the positive comments already posted..thanks ,I will go to sleep tonight a little less stupid than when I woke up this morning...
TFA... thanks for commenting here and congrats on starting your own channel! I suspect you'll find more inspiration on the content shown on Next Level Carpentry than from the actual channel itself or my video production so I especially appreciate your subscription! Best. Matt
Thanks for the info. This is a much more refined approach to this trick than I was taught. Half lapping the prices is genius. How did you cut the angles on the end to meet the styles. And how did you do the joinery for the Pickett pieces that run into the curve. Thanks.
Terry, Wish it would have worked out to do a build video of these gates because it was such a cool project... BTW you can see pictures of the actual project by following the Pinterest link from the NLC Channel home page. I cut angles on the ends of the curved stiles and their beefy tenons BEFORE cutting the curves... that makes it pretty straightforward geometry/woodwork. To keep costs down I didn't mortise/tenon those pickets. I just did a half-lap joint top and bottom of the milled down 2x4's and screwed them to the back face of the gate panel. The vertical panel pieces are tenoned top and bottom to fit a dado in the bottom and middle straight stiles. Hope that makes sense. If you're interested I could upload a few more pics of the gate joinery to Pinterest, just let me know... and thanks for subscribing!! Best, Matt
Jerry, Thanks for commenting and adding this to your 'Liked Videos' playlist! Hope you get to put the trick to use because it really is 'awesome' to use :-)
I laid them out almost the same BUT I just used a very thin piece of wood. Put the center outside the center nail and the ends inside the nail and simply draw along the slip of wood. From there it is simple to offset a line to get the width needed.. Easy enough to check for constancy also, just measure out some spacing, say 3 or 4 inches but both sides of center must be the same. Simply measure from the baseline to the arc at each point 90 degrees off the baseline. Each side from the center line to the arc should be the same at each point for a true arc. For something free form approximating a true ark just nudge the stick a bit one way or the other as needed. Obviously the 2 sides from center wont be equal.. For arcs under 3 feet simply do the above with a flexible yardstick. Thing is no matter how long you have been making sawdust theirs always a new trick that can be learnt.. :)
John, Thanks for commenting on this video... The method you describe is probably quicker and easier and is certainly 'good enough' for many applications. The main difference in the two methods (and the reason I demonstrate the two stick method here) is that using 'sticks' like I show makes arcs with a consistent radius from end to end. Using the bent stick approach leaves 'flat spots' at each end where the thin piece of wood straightens out near its ends where they rest against the nails.... it all depends on the demands of the project at hand...
So Matt, when you went to create the height of your concentric line, how do you know how far over on the bottom line to start your radial line? Did I miss that?
befmx31, sorry, that's not too clear in the video. At ua-cam.com/video/ykzQurvEqOo/v-deo.html I basically just 'wing it' by judging my tape is square to a chord line of the first arc. This might be hard to follow but I'll give it a shot. First draw a straight line on the concave side of the first arc... think of the arc as an archer's bow and the straight line (chord) as the bowstring. Find the center point of that line regardless of it's length and draw a 2nd line perpendicular to it from that center point. That perpendicular line is a 'radial' line that would continue to the center of the arc/circle. Do one of these as near to the ends of the first arc as you can. Measure the distance to the nail for the 2nd arc along that line. The closer you can make the midpoint of the chord to the ends of the first arc the wider/longer your 2nd arc can be drawn. I winged it for this whole process by 'eyeballing' the mark on my tape measure so that it was placed as a very short chord of the first arc. Hope this helps. Considering your comment I now wish I'd have included this process in the video. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you for the lengthy explanation and you were right......it is hard to follow. For me any way. Thanks again.
@@befmx31 the method is basic geometry so you might find a better 'lesson' in a geometry textbook. BTW I've always felt a good grasp of geometry in general is a huge plus for carpenters since pretty much every aspect of building stuff is based on its principals. This is going to sound like bragging but decent knowledge of geometry has always given me a 'leg up' when working on any jobsite or with any crew. "In the land of the blind a one-eyed man is King! 😀😎 Best, Matt
@@befmx31 have you tried to do it , sometimes it won't be clear till you have your hands on it
Furniture designer and builder for over 35 years and i've never seen this method. This old dog has learned plenty of new tricks on your channel. Thanks Matt.
There's no higher compliment... you're most welcome!
I didn't know that one either!
Thanks!
DCS: You know more than a few tricks about drawing/cutting circles and arcs too, my friend, so I'm extra glad to share something 'new'!
I'd love to be a furniture maker and designer full time! That'd be my dream job
@@saywhaat8933 it can be a pretty rewarding career, but, like anything, has its drawbacks. But at least the work itself is usually the best part... Best, Matt
Matt really is an amazing teacher, I think UA-cam algorithms under rate his channel
You're too kind!
Your skill as a master carpenter is only surpassed by your calm and humble demeanor. Thank you for sharing your art with such simple excellence.
Marion, A friend helped me find some very old neglected comments hiding out on Next Level Carpentry... so a belated 'thank you' for your comment... hope you're still watching videos here? Best, Matt
simple and elegant. thank you!
Great video! Super nice gates there. Thanks for sharing your idea.👍🏼☮️
The simplicity of your jig is outstanding!
I have never learned how to do that. Simple and precise explanation made it a lot more understandable.
It's a pretty slick trick that's surprisingly accurate for how simple it is... hope you get a chance to put it to use Ted! Best, Matt
That’s a very slick trick. I’ve never seen it done like this before. I think this one is a KEEPER!
Your videos just keep getting better.
I'll keep on tryin' if you'll keep on watchin', Robert!
i've been building scenery and fine homes for 30+ years and never heard this one!! Great tip, I already have a project in mind!
Phil, thanks for commenting! I can imagine how helpful this could be for building scenery with the crazy variety of projects you must encounter. As with most of Next Level Carpentry tutorials the methods shown can be extrapolated to accomplish all sorts of radical applications. I've drawn very wide (+/- 10') , very shallow (6" or so) arcs with this method with great results but needed to use 4"wide strips of heavy gauge sheetmetal for the 'arms'. I might have used strips of 1/8" plywood but it only comes 8' long. The sheetmetal is stiffer, thinner and slides across the nails better than wood. . You get the idea, I'm sure. Have fun adapting and applying :-)
This is an outstanding method. I'm so glad I found your channel. Keep up the excellent teaching. 🙌
Hi Matt, simple and precise, excellently described. Another door has opened. Thank you.
Whether a door opens (or a gate) it's always a good thing to expand our horizons, right? You're most welcome Robert! Best, Matt
Thankyou, I benefitted from your presentation. . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England
Thanks, this channel was the most useful.😃
Thanks, that was clever. No stretchy strings involved.
EggZACTly Peter! 😎
Mat, thanks for the reply and all the details concerning the Delta Unisaw guide fence. I have Powematic table say with an adequate Biesmeyer fence, but I like how the Unisaw is made. I wish it could adapt to my saw. Thanks again.
Mike
Love this ! Thanks you for showing the methods.
Very simple explanation. Thank you.
Awesome technique. Thanks man.
This worked out so nice and so fast, I will be watching you !! Thank You
Lots more where this came from on Next Level Carpentry Allan... thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
That was pretty slick. Definitely stashing this vid for future use.
Another excellent tip. One note when measuring the second set of points [5:11], the radial measurement being done is basically aiming at an imaginary center of a giant circle from its perimeter.
Thanks for adding this, CyberGolem, great explanation for better visualizing what's being shown at that point on the timeline...
Best, Matt
Very nice method. I'll use it for the gate I'm building now. And the tip at 5:05 saved me a headache--and some plywood. :P Thanks for another great video.
Genius. Thanks mate.
Great stuff and so simple. Thanks again Matt.
My pleasure, Ed! I appreciate that you're subscribed to Next Level Carpentry and add some of these videos to your Liked Videos playlist! I'm excited about an upcoming series showing how and why to build 3 types of sawhorses: "The Apprentice" the "Journeyman" and the "Master Carpenter"... hope you get a chance to check them out and/or comment when they're uploaded. Best, Matt
Matt, did you ever make the videos on the three different types of sawhorses? I didn't see them in your posted videos? Thanks.
Mike, thanks so much for asking about this... I'd SO much rather be working on the sawhorse series instead of the current project I'm working on but just can't devote the time to producing the videos that it takes to complete and upload them. The first Apprentice Sawhorse video is about 80% complete but work and life are so fast-paced just now that I just can't seem to get the remaining 20% done. I really appreciate your patience on this and believe the videos will be well worth the wait in the end. You seem to be observant and so may have noticed NLC cleared 25K subscribers lately. That's very significant to me and gives me great hope that within the next 9~12 months I can make this Channel my primary focus and my carpentry business secondary... a very real possibility with 'dedicated' subscribers like you! Best, Matt
No problem. I look forward to watching it and all your videos. Congratulations on reaching 25K.
This is quality knowledge you won't be getting from too many people these days. I'm all in with Next Level Carpentry...(;-))
Thanks for the vote of confidence and for subscribing, Bruce! My goal is to share the 'quality knowledge' you mention but some get bucked off by this video: ua-cam.com/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/v-deo.html
If you can hang on during that ride I believe you'll find other 'quality knowledge' at Next Level Carpentry
Thanks for sharing. Very useful!
Wow. That's got to be the most useful video I've seen on you tube. Hope I get to use this at some point. Thanks
Lee, thanks for you assessment of the video... I certainly hope many others agree with you on its usefulness :-) Seems to me that some law of attraction comes into play with newfound knowledge like this and that, before long, you'll find yourself confronted with a project that requires you to put this to use. I predict it will go well for you!
Holy, I was clicking in thinking you will show me that you will use a thin board and bend it curve and trace it. This is worth watching!!!!
Thanks Edward, for commenting, subscribing and adding Next Level Carpentry videos to your 'Liked Videos' playlist... that tells me you really DO think it's worth watching which I appreciate! I don't do a very good job of pointing it out but everything you see in videos on this Channel is stuff I use on a regular basis to earn a respectable living in my custom design/build carpentry business so you can be assured that it's not some contrived DIY stuff without value in the real world :-) Best, Matt
So cool. Thank you yet again.
Éste viejito si que sabe Men estoy sorprendido aprendo mucho de este viejito gracias por los Videos
Hi Matt. Great technique. But what would be even more interesting is how you mortice and tenon the vertical slats into the underside of that curved rail. It's something I've been puzzling over for months.
Wish I had time to put that in a video Philip because it really is a sweet process. The secret, in a nutshell, is to do all your layout and mortising BEFORE you cut the curves. If you do the curve last, the rest of the joinery is greatly simplified... not easy by any stretch... but much simpler! Best, Matt
Great channel. Nice to see someone sharing the technics
Thanks Tim... A friend helped me find some very old neglected comments hiding out on Next Level Carpentry... so a belated 'thank you' for your comment... hope you're still watching videos here? Best, Matt
Magnificent work!
Great technic Matt
Thanks for sayin' David, hope you find it useful. Best, Matt
This is a great technique to use/know. I've only used math/trammel/square etc., to loft arc's. Trust you've seen LeeValley small brass discs" used to loft lines in parallel to a pattern? A 7/8ths diameter "wheel" with a pencil in the middle....rolls along a pattern and draws a line 7/16ths out from it (as an example). Useful in many instances. Great video!
Neal, I like the idea of using those discs for drawing parallel/concentric lines... I've seen them but have always used a different method, generally a small block, for the same purpose. A block is easy to cut to exact length but is awkward to use on convex curves and inaccurate for concave ones... I'll add this to my bag of tricks for future use!
Matt
You'll love the LeeValley little drafting discs, especially since they are round, lofting in total parallel is guaranteed. I've made large (thin) plywood disc. for bigger offsets when I could not easily re-swing a radius--using the same principal.
I have just come across this video and it has brought me such joy that you use such a simple system to achieve something very complicated. . You should have many more views and subscribers that you have! You also presented it in such a friendly manner. Thank you so much for sharing this and I look forward to watching all the videos on your channel
Marios, Glad you found Next Level Carpentry and liked this video. It takes such an effort for this dyed in the wool carpenter to record, produce and upload videos that you can bet any content that makes it through that wearying process is something I'm passionate about :-) This arc drawing method is an example of one 'trick' that is invaluable to me and my work. If you DO end up browsing NLC for more videos may I recommend
'How to Draw an Elliptical Curve Without Math or String':
ua-cam.com/video/Jjh_ZRhfnDY/v-deo.html&index=16&list=PLh_GOwrHv4WU14QGS5xvTgiyvT0FWMn8a
and the fun but less pragmatic 'How to Draw a Circle... With a Square!?':
ua-cam.com/video/xZaGCUeSQAM/v-deo.html
A large part of the 'views and subscribers' thing you mention is that I struggle with the technology it takes to build a more dynamic online presence. The last thing I want is artificially produced traffic generation
because I personally think it leads only to illegitimate, watered down content. That being the case I GREATLY appreciate any activity viewers like yourself generate.
Best regards,
Matt Jackson
I appreciate your video most of the arcs I do are in furniture and I can just use my beam compass for them but I’ll remember this method if I have to make a large one
Peter, Any time you can get a compass to work it's a lot more straight forward, isn't it? One thing I like about this method is that I don't have to know the radius ahead of time and can just use width and rise of the arc to get it drawn... quick and easy. Not that finding radius is so difficult but I like simple when possible. Best, Matt
Thank you young man
Great tip and very well presented.
Peter; Thank you muchly!
With 45+ years in carpentry and about 4 in video production the 'very well presented' part of your compliment is the most gratifying :-) Tips are EASY compared to the struggles I encounter with video production :-)
Best regards,
Matt
Another great video. Do you have a video on mortising the pickets into the arch
Thanks, Rick! Unfortunately, I don't have anything showing the mortising process. A good friend of mine has an excellent Powermatic hollow chisel mortiser in his shop and generously allows me to use it whenever I ask. It makes quick and perfect work of chopping the numerous large, deep mortises that make these gates so sturdy and durable. I think I mention in the video that there's quite a bit of Next Level Carpentry involved in building the gates and would really love to do a build video for them someday.
I'm afraid though that it won't happen unless and until I have some sort of video production team in place because, sadly, as I've said in other comments, it takes me MANY more hours to produce a video than it ever does to do the actual work. I do have aspirations for getting to the point where this channel can justify and support a production crew so that I can focus on just doing the work part without the distraction and exasperation of video production. Good news is that with activity from engaged viewer/subscribers like you taking Next Level Carpentry to the next level is a real possibility!
WHEW... that's a long answer when a simple 'no' might have been sufficient :-)
Matt
Wow this is good stuff, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Excellent tip... thanks for sharing!
You're welcome Chip... have fun with it! Best, Matt
Thank you - this is just what I needed to know to make two table supports like over-lapping brackets )(
Great example of extrapolating a techhique... it's exactly the method I'd use for the project you describe. My compliments to you! Best, Matt
Tried the bending a thin wood strip thing...works in a pinch but can be inaccurate, moreso when the bend is tighter. This is a much better method! Thank you Sir.
I know what you mean Brandt... the bent stick usually makes an arc with flattened ends. Have fun with this one... after you use it a time or two it goes really quick! Best, Matt
If you wanted to make a tool that you could use many times, do you think it would work to join the two sticks with a carriage bolt and a wing nut?
Very nice man, and well done. Love the channel, been framing for 25 years and never seen this method. Love it and keep up the great work
Thanks, Willy,
Yours is the sort of comment that keeps me energized for building this channel... I'm guessing we both learned most of what we know (plus everything we've already forgotten :-) by watching, learning and doing. Thanks... keep working smart and safe!!
Hi Matt you bet I will It was a long time I know there was a method of doing it but ne er found out how.
Thanks to you now I do .
So thanks again and keep up. The interesting things you do. I’m sure they also bring personal satisfaction
I know I do .
Cheers. Dave
Thanks David... Not only do interesting things bring personal satisfaction but sharing those things with appreciative people like you brings at least an equal measure! Best, Matt
what kind of playwood did you used it for the cut?
Great information
Beautiful
Thanks for the tip. This looks so much simpler than taking my plywood and a 20' stick out to my customer's driveway!
Been there, done that too, Ted! Always nice to stumble across a better, faster, more accurate... and less embarrassing way to do things, isn't it?! As always, thanks for commenting... Best, Matt
Thanks for sharing. Just went to my brother in law recently to learn how to cut an arch. Wish I had found this before then. I got it done but would have like to have tried this method...lol
You're welcome, Wanda... I'll look forward to hearing how it goes when you go back to bro-in-law and show HIM how to cut an arch... could be interesting, right? 😁😎 Best, Matt
Subscribed! Some mad skillz going on here!
I'm all about 'mad skillz' dude :-) Thanks for the sub!!
Thx for all the good Tricks so far!👌
wow very cool jig! also liked the pencil sharping video...great channel... thank you so much sir for paying it forward and taking my skills to the next level... cheers! tim providence, r.i.
acusticsix,
Glad you like and anticipate using some Next Level Carpentry stuff for your skillset... knowing it's getting used is reward for sharing it... thanks!
Great method
Thank you I am making a 34 in stair nosing and this just helped me do it.(tread nosing)
Kudos to you for using this method for a unique application!
Best, Matt
That was worth watching!
Glad to hear it... and thanks for taking the time to comment :-)
Hi Matt, any vids on how to create the arch from the template ?
I don't have a video specific to making the arch from that template but it's the same process you'll see me use if you search out the video how to cut decorative ends on pergola joist at Next Level carpentry. I basically Trace out the Curve on the piece of wood and then band saw or jigsaw it to rough shape and then finish up by using a router with the template to cut the curve profile perfectly.
Hope that helps.?
Great ideas, many thanks!🇬🇧🇬🇧
You're welcome, Graham! Hope you're able to put this to use on a project you're doing too... Best, Matt
So Matt... I just thought of this... if, for example, the width of the arc, is the same as the width of your sticks, will it come out right if you just moved the pencil to the outside of the sticks and draw another line? Just wondering. Thanks.
Interesting idea Raul... Great comment!! Thinking about here and now it makes me think it would work great! Might take a little planning to get it the right width but the concept gets me thinking that it might work to add an extra stick of some sort to the center point because it would be faster and more accurate than re-setting the nails and sticks... Best, Matt
Hi Matt
Follow and enjoy all your great videos
I was just checking if you have any details available for the gates used in your How to Draw Arcs for woodworking projects as these would look great on our new home in Australia
Thanks again & keep up your great content
Best Regards
Mark Read
Hey Mark, are you a SketchUp user by any chance? If so I could send you a copy of the SketchUp file I used for designing/planning these gates. Other than that I didn't do any video work of the actual build.
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry
Hi Matt
Thanks for your prompt reply
The sketch up file would be great
Just so I could work out material size’s & a cutting list, height of side rails & profile of the rounded tops
Much appreciated and Thanks again
We’re looking forward to more great content 👍🏻👏👏👏
Best Regards
Mark Read
@@Mark-d6p6u Pls send me an email request to matt@nextlevelcarpentry.shop so I can forward that SU file?
It worked like a charm!
Glad to hear it, Frank! Please consider subscribing to Next Level Carpentry and I'll do my best to share more stuff you'll find useful :-)
Best,
Matt
Done!
Nice layout trick Matt. I had to reproduce a 54" radius porch handrail years ago and this would have been easier than the method I used.
Instead of 1/2 lap short block can be added cross them. Also the stick butting up to the other one needs to be cut on sharp angle so inside corner can be created
Helpful hints for a helpful tip, Ivo... thanks for adding! Best, Matt
Thank you very helpful
Two follow-on questions:
1. What's your recommended method for actually creating the template (material, tools, etc.)?
2. Which bit(s) do you recommend for routing the stock?
Many thanks, as always, Matt.
Sure, John:
1. I create most all my pattern-routing templates using the same process that I do making the template and pushsticks in this video: ua-cam.com/video/8h4OJHhSH8A/v-deo.html
which is pretty much layout the template, cut slightly proud of the line and then dial it down using sandpaper. With a little practice you might be amazed at how quick and accurate this is
BTW I thought I read something in your comment earlier about your switching to CNC for templates... looks like you edited that out but it's a great point so I'll respond anyways. With easy access to a CNC fabricator it's pretty tough not to justify the relatively minor cost for CNC templating for this sort of stuff and, I'd guess, it's more cost effective and accurate. This is a great alternative in a pinch or even if you just want to stick with rotary dial phone technology to shake it up a bit 🙄😁😎
2. I use the monster 1/2" shank TOP bearing flush trim bit used in the Pergola Joist video: ua-cam.com/video/0TI7AV8HdXI/v-deo.html or something very similar. Takes a pretty robust, sharp bit and serious router for profiling 1 1/2" stock like the gate rails but it's totally doable. I like to use Whiteside router bits for most things but included a link to a similar flush trim bit on the Next Level Carpentry Amazon page to give you an idea of what I'm talking about here. www.amazon.com/dp/B0006G82J4/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
Hope this helps... Best, Matt
Absolutely genius, Thank you for sharing!!
Awesome tip. Do you have videos on how to sand the curve (I’m a novice) and build those gates?
Thanks Sean! I don't have a video for building these gates but if you check out my Professional Pushsticks video you'll see the templating method I used to make the curved rails on the gates. You may be surprised by how LITTLE sanding is involved! I mention in other videos how much I hate sanding and show methods I use to avoid it. BTW check out the How to Make Wide Coves video too, if you have time, as it shows how to make custom sanding blocks for sanding special curves. Best, Matt
Awesome guidance. Thanks. I'm planning some gates with a dip (bulge) much like you've depicted, but I'd like to have the wood continue after the dip across at a right angle on each side of the gate to where the top hinges will be mounted. My theory is that having a single monolithic piece of wood bearing the hinges and then defining the arc might help with strength and to resist sagging. Does my idea hold water? Or, is it best simply to face the arc'ed pieces against the vertical wood that bears the hinge? I have a picture of what I want that I could email if that helps.
Not sure if I can answer your question but feel free to add a photo link from Dropbox or Pinterest and I'll take a look...
Oh that's bloody amazing, been wondering how you make large arcs for literally years! :D
very good ...thank you for sharing
Thanks cold spring... hope you get a chance to put this to use for better results faster on projects you're doing! Best, Matt
Excellent. It sure beats a couple of nails and a stretchy loop of string.
Geometry gurus . . . how do you calculate the angle from the center of a hypothetical circle if you know the rise and the arc length?
How can I search for a specific how to do for example of full ellipse not just the half. Or how to cut an unequal picture of for instance. Do you have a search box where we can type in
Unfortunately I'm not that organized John... answers to some of your questions are given in other videos here at Next Level Carpentry but no content inventory is. Best, Matt
Hi Matt again it's John heckmeister can you please do me a favor and provide me something that shows me how to cut an unequal pitch roof say an 812 intersecting into a 1012 like building up of a corner and shifting the hip instructions there's several other ways of doing it and I'm confused common roofs common hips all day long every which way but for some reason shifting The hip throws me way off including the cuts on the jack rafters one being steeper one being shallower where's all that math come from 90 of course but I'm getting mixed up please help
@@johnhachmeister5281 all I have to address that sort of questions is this three-part series I did using SketchUp on The Digital Jobsite, my other Channel on UA-cam: ua-cam.com/video/we-BHy7ANY0/v-deo.html It might help you understand factors at play in that complex roof configuration you're asking about. Good luck! Best, Matt
Good idea man
Matt, l find that your guide fence for your table saw is quite unique. My question is did it come with your saw or did you purchase it as an additional peace of upgrade?
Mike
What you see on my table saw is a Delta unifence that came with the saw when it was brand new in 1982. It was a real game-changer for rip fences compared to the old models that slide back and forth on a pipe but has since been upgraded to the Biesmeyer Style that is so prevalent today. It's a very accurate fence with excellent features but I think if I was replacing it I would probably go with a different design that has the two sided raill rather than one side only like what I have.
Best, Matt
This guy is awesome
Well thank you for saying so Chaca! Much appreciated! Best, Matt
Sweet lord that’s awesome! I’m an engineer and there is no way I could math and lay it out as fast as you just did. Lol
Garrett,
Almost like cheatin', isn't it? There's a couple variations on this method shown on videos by others but it's a tough method to beat! Hope you get a chance to apply it to one of your projects soon...
Next Level Carpentry haha right?? There is a trick I learned in my algebra class with string and two nails but it would be all wonky with a large arch/ellipse such as this. The sticks, I imagine, are inspired by this, no? Great stuff sir!
Garrett,
I'm sure there's a mathematical correlation between the nails & string and sticks somewhere... my high-school math teachers would be disappointed to know I've forgotten anything they taught me about it though :-(
The principal of using a string, in theory, (string theory for carpentry?!) is valid although in practice any stretch in the string makes for unsatisfactory results. I've thought that in a pinch if a piece of thin wire was used it might avoid some inaccuracies compared to string but would likely just cause others. That's why I tend to stick with sticks
Nice & easy thanks
A.A, You're welcome... simple things tend to be the best, don't they?
Extremely helpful. Thanks.
You're welcome! It has been a beneficial trick for me over the years and hope you find that to be true too!
Best,
Matt
Wooooow😮 wonderful
Thanks for this techniques sir.....
You made a 4' arc. You noted how long your sticks would be to get a 6' or 8' arc. Could you just move the 4' pattern to the left and right to scribe an 8' arc?
You can definitely do that as long as you use sufficient care to maintain accuracy...
Makes me want to make something with an arc in it! How satisfying
Wish I'd seen this when I was making curtain pelmets, oh well :)
SJH, Don't wait until you find something to make with an arc in it... just find a scrap sheet of something and draw some arcs on it :-) Nothing like running through the steps to cement the trick into your memory for when that arc project arrives!
+Next Level Carpentry I'm tempted!
Keep up the great work, have enjoyed learning from you so far, many thanks (ps really keen to get a magnetic upholstery hammer now!)
SJH, In this world of ubiquitous air nailers, brad nailers, staplers and such it's noteworthy that there's STILL a place in the shop for that little magnetic hammer, isn't it? Keep an eye out at garage sales or in Grandpa's old toolbox for one of the little gems.
Failing that, here's a bit of shameless self-promotion: you'll find an option for just such a hammer on the Amazon Influencer's page in the video description... juss sayin' :-)
Either way I've found that a bit of filing on the split/magnetic end of the hammer is sometimes necessary. It can make all the difference in its usefulness by making sure that the flat surfaces of the split head are co-planer. Make sense? You'll wonder how you ever did without one...
Regards,
Matt
+Next Level Carpentry I quite agree Matt! I've had my grandad's hand-mitre saw for 10 years now, and have used it for every angled cut in our flat (skirting board included), not as precise as a machine and five times the effort but hey!
And nothing wrong with a bit of self-promotion, you deserve all the props you get :)
Best,
Sam
Some people are very very clever,Then theres me.I have failed so many times trying to draw a arc,Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
lain,
Hope you're able to draw an arc with this method next time you need to and that it is the first in a long line of successes!
Regards,
Matt
Brilliant, no need to set up a long 2x1 and try to guess the radius
Right you are, Gerald! Even though I can easily pull a radius measurement from a 3D SketchUp design model it's much easier to lay them out using this method than using a 2x1 to draw it. Best, Matt
AH is true, but sometimes difficult to get nice paper and scale rule on a site. but i get it
how do you cut it after, coud a router be set up on the 1x4?
Hi Gerald, It would be difficult to control a router set up on the 1x4 because cutting action would make the router move forcefully in the cutting direction. In the video I cut the pattern with a bandsaw and rough out the workpiece on the bandsaw also. The final step is to use a router with a flush trim bit that follows the pattern and shapes the piece. Even though there's a few more steps it is very accurate, pretty simple and actually very efficient for limited production applications. Best, Matt
thanks Matt. was thinking that would be the only way. just being lazy and trying to find the easy way. gerry
I like the way you think, Gerry! Gotta make it easy on yourself because no one is gonna do it for you, right? BTW This video shows how the flush trim router bit works when used with a similar pattern: ua-cam.com/video/0TI7AV8HdXI/v-deo.html
Best, Matt
thanks, i think i seen the method for a oval shape on youtube also, ?
Brilliant ,totally agree with all the positive comments already posted..thanks ,I will go to sleep tonight a little less stupid than when I woke up this morning...
Cool... any day that you can say that is a good day...
That is a very nice piece. I just started my own channel so I subscribed to yours to get inspiration.
TFA... thanks for commenting here and congrats on starting your own channel! I suspect you'll find more inspiration on the content shown on Next Level Carpentry than from the actual channel itself or my video production so I especially appreciate your subscription!
Best.
Matt
Thanks for the info. This is a much more refined approach to this trick than I was taught. Half lapping the prices is genius.
How did you cut the angles on the end to meet the styles. And how did you do the joinery for the Pickett pieces that run into the curve.
Thanks.
Terry, Wish it would have worked out to do a build video of these gates because it was such a cool project... BTW you can see pictures of the actual project by following the Pinterest link from the NLC Channel home page. I cut angles on the ends of the curved stiles and their beefy tenons BEFORE cutting the curves... that makes it pretty straightforward geometry/woodwork. To keep costs down I didn't mortise/tenon those pickets. I just did a half-lap joint top and bottom of the milled down 2x4's and screwed them to the back face of the gate panel. The vertical panel pieces are tenoned top and bottom to fit a dado in the bottom and middle straight stiles. Hope that makes sense. If you're interested I could upload a few more pics of the gate joinery to Pinterest, just let me know... and thanks for subscribing!! Best, Matt
thanks. cant wait to show this off at work haha
This is a awesome trick ty
Jerry,
Thanks for commenting and adding this to your 'Liked Videos' playlist! Hope you get to put the trick to use because it really is 'awesome' to use :-)
Thank you!
You're welcome, Ro!
You're amazing....Thanks
I laid them out almost the same BUT I just used a very thin piece of wood. Put the center outside the center nail and the ends inside the nail and simply draw along the slip of wood. From there it is simple to offset a line to get the width needed.. Easy enough to check for constancy also, just measure out some spacing, say 3 or 4 inches but both sides of center must be the same. Simply measure from the baseline to the arc at each point 90 degrees off the baseline. Each side from the center line to the arc should be the same at each point for a true arc.
For something free form approximating a true ark just nudge the stick a bit one way or the other as needed. Obviously the 2 sides from center wont be equal..
For arcs under 3 feet simply do the above with a flexible yardstick.
Thing is no matter how long you have been making sawdust theirs always a new trick that can be learnt.. :)
John,
Thanks for commenting on this video...
The method you describe is probably quicker and easier and is certainly 'good enough' for many applications. The main difference in the two methods (and the reason I demonstrate the two stick method here) is that using 'sticks' like I show makes arcs with a consistent radius from end to end. Using the bent stick approach leaves 'flat spots' at each end where the thin piece of wood straightens out near its ends where they rest against the nails.... it all depends on the demands of the project at hand...
ingenious
Amazing tkx
really thanks gian