That neoprene "washer" is called a backer ring. Its primary purpose is to allow for the o-ring to handle a higher pressure. There are other reasons but increase pressure is the main one. Good video. You put in a lot of work making this series.
I haven’t read all the comments but there is an easy way of disconnecting and reconnecting the fork linkage from the valve at the bottom through the drain plug hole.
Just finished rebuilding my hydraulic pump. Just wanted to add that a good sharp wood chisel made it a breeze to scrape original gaskets right off the valve bodies. Very little wire wheel brushing needed, and an occasional shot of brake cleaner helped to loosen and no dust.
31 Ford Yeah sometimes I wonder if I should get too in-depth but then I think about those that may never have done it so I'll go into detail more. These Fords always attract the newbies probably more then any make or model so I try to help them. LOL
Looks good! Very cool to see how that pump works! I remember doing the top shaft on the 5610 lot more linkages and alot more to be afraid of lol! The bushings on the newer style slide right in not to big of a pain but the shaft is 2 1/2 inches round and the lift brackets are a pain to get lined up. Very cool project to follow along with! Its gonna work like a top when its all done!
To help with installation of the bushings...............Put then in the freezer for a few hours. That will shrink them and they will slide in much easier.
I didnt have them in the freezer but I had them sitting outside for a while. The temps that day were in the low teens with a bad wind chill. Didn't help. The replacement bushings were about .010 fatter then the originals which wa probably the main problem. I actually took some material off of the bushing to help get it in there. Enough off to help get in but once cooled down would not rotate i the housing. I don't go in to all the detail in the videos because it would be way too long. Most people don't replace these anyway. These really didnt need done but I figure I would just for the video
My 3 point of my 8n would go up if the pto was engaged but wouldn’t go down Even if I used the draft control .... Pulled the side cover off. Found the control valve and lever laying in the bottom of the reservoir.... Dropped the pump.... the casting had broke where the control valve lever pins into the pump body casting Mine was an aluminum pump so I couldn’t weld it .... (I can weld cast iron pretty good ) not aluminum.... I would up making a bracket. Drilling and taping both pieces And screwing the broke casting back together..... took it plowing the next day ....... Now I need to rebuild the steering system and find out why the engine only runs smooth on half choke Thinking it’s either Carb or timing/distributor ...
Glad to hear you are getting it doing. The pumps crack due to water and it freezing for the most part. What year is your 8N? I just changed my 1948 8N steering gear box to the later style gear box. There are a couple of simple modifications to do but it's well worth it. I'm going to try and make a video of what I did soon. Check your manifold and gaskets for leaks. You may be getting too much air sucked in and the choke is compensating for it.
Jason1Pa mine is a 47. And it showed signs of having water in it. There was a rust line about 3 m” above the bottom of the reservoir. I needed get a new manifold A new steering gearbox New tie rod ends And drag links. And possibly a new carb or distributor....
My lower pump pistons were different (probably original) so after tearing it apart and playing rubix-cube I finally got the correct positioning. Then I took my Dremel tool and marked the 2 pieces that had to align so that when I went to place new gaskets I would know which way they had to go back together.
I want to know how you got the lift shaft and the bushings out......... My lift shaft is way too tight in the housing and bushings to even turn by hand and I'm not sure why........ I didn't do anything to it to make it tight. And it's never been apart. And I think one of the bushings is turning in the housing......
This particular tractor fortunately came apart real easy. The bushings came right out by hand. Getting the new ones in was a tricky job. Is the top part already off of you tractor? If so I'd put it up on its side and heat it up and spray some PB Blaster down in there. Was it always fine then suddenly got stuck? Was the tractor sitting a long time?
Would of worked. I don't have anyplace close by that sells them that big I don't think plus it was a quick fix and didn't have to run to go get anything. The integrity of the lift was not in harm just to do a little grinding
Thanks for the fast reply! And that’s my fault I worded it wrong, the linkage its self did you just pull the linkage arms away from the control valve ?
@Anonymous-dt6dq Yes. It can be tricky. It helps if you have both inspection plates off and a helper on the other side. I can really say there is a procedure to use. Sometimes it goes together easy Sometimes not. Just make sure there is enough tension on the linkage to squeeze the control valve or it will pop off. Just squeeze the linkage together when disconnected to get it springy enough.
@Anonymous-dt6dq They get stuck pretty good. If it is the original gasket they are extremely hard to get off. I personally get a angle grinder and a wire wheel to clean it off.
Hey, I'm not sure if you still look at the new comments, but I've noticed that you are very knowledgeable about these tractors. If you have time, I would ask for your input. I have an 8n. Draft control seems to work perfect. My issue is with the position control. The lift shaft arms will almost go 70-90 degrees up, in the up position. When I flip the lever down, the arms only drop by about 20 degrees or so. The actual arms are too high to even be parallel to the ground. What would you suggest checking and possibly replacing?
Yes I always check comments. First I would try adjusting the lift control lever. There are 4 bolts that need loosen to make the adjustment. You might get more travel with the lift arms. If that doesn't help I'd take the whole top plate off (what your seat attaches to) and check the small pin that rides on cam looking piece. If there is any were on that small pin they can give you a lot of issues.
Jason, Great infomation man. Could you elaborate on how to remove just the lift arm with out removing the whole assembly. Horseshoe broke trying to take one side off to weld horseshoe. Any suggestions? I have heated, soaked in oil and vinegar. This is a 1948 Ford 8N. Thanks in advance. Bill in SC
Oxygen and acetylene torch. Moved the heat around to heat up the entire area where the arm is seated to the shaft, trying not to heat the shaft. Not sure how hot it needs to be but it was hot to the horseshoe end. It just will not budge. Bill, SC
Payerl Sailing Hmmm?? Seems your doing everything right. They can be miserable. This particular one on the video came off real easy. Can you weld the broken piece while its on the tractor? Or worse comes to worse take off the whole top part then weld the piece. I know its easier with it off but.....
Payerl Sailing Just thought of something.. If you would take the whole top part off you would be able to put it on its side to put your choice of penetrating oil right into the splines and it would run down in. Especially heating and spraying and letting it sit and soak would have to help
@@ricardoaguiar3584 Tengo un 8N también. En el video, el tractor es un Ford 2N. Muy similar pero también diferente. Desearía que mi español fuera mejor. Mi esposa es de venezuela. Ella habla español perfecto. ¿Vives en Uruguay o vives en los Estados Unidos?
Hi Jason, my Dad who past away this year, unfortunately broke the seat of the tractor off and cracked of the hydraulic top where the seat mounts. My question should I have it welded or replace the part and were do I get this part?
It would be probably be easier to have it welded if possible or get a whole complete assembly off of a parts tractor so you don't have to worry about changing out the lift arms. They can be a real bear getting them off the splines.
Gerald Giles Because I am going to strip it down to the bones and paint it with a good automotive paint with base clear. I don't want to spend big money on a paint job then test the tractor out. I wouldn't want to mess it up if I had any issues and take it apart again. Also it was winter time and I don't want to paint in the building I was in. The other building doesn't have heat at this time.
Generally a whole kit will be in the 100 to 200 range. You can buy parts individually which is actually better because most of the parts never need replaced. Are you sure you are actually needing a pump? Most of them out there have probably never been rebuilt.
My 3 point wasn't going up ,sent it in for repairs, I think the guy did more damage...... need a few parts now that he broke and lied about. Anyone got a parts tractor 9n that I can pick a few things from? PA, MD,WV ,Del, I'll travel if need be . I want my baby fixed
@@Jason1Pa Jason thanks for replying I was hoping you would, I believe the stupid mechanic didn't disconnect the arms before taking off top cover. I believe I need the arms protruding from the pump. He called it a rockshaft but he's hey John Deere guy. I can look in my manual and get you Parts numbers. Guy told me that yesterday tractor Steiner's and New Holland didn't have the part. It's going to require me to split the tractor and I'm not prepared for that no cherry picker or anything
@@tomr3074 I wouldn't be able to help you with the parts unfortunately. Yeah your going to need to find the original part from someone junking a tractor. They don't make that part new cause it's not something that goes bad. It is considered the "Lever Assembly" part number 9N504B I hope fork that attaches to that (part number 9N540) isn't damaged either. If he pulled it up with out disconnecting it the control valve probably broke to. Actually I would think that would break before the the fork would break but who knows?? You don't need to split the tractor when doing any kind of hydraulic repair. The top cover is heavy but probably more awkward then anything. If two people lift up on it it's not too bad.
@@Jason1Pa thanks Jason , I'll put a add on cl and rejoin yesterday's tractor ,maby kirk or someone has what i need .kirk usually has weights too for sale. Thanks a million for your time and knowledge.
@@tomr3074 yeah he seems to have a lot of parts. If he doesn't let me know I have a few guys numbers that have a good bit of parts too. Where you live exactly? I have a couple numbers of Ford guys out east in Pa.
Tour the best
That neoprene "washer" is called a backer ring. Its primary purpose is to allow for the o-ring to handle a higher pressure. There are other reasons but increase pressure is the main one. Good video. You put in a lot of work making this series.
I haven’t read all the comments but there is an easy way of disconnecting and reconnecting the fork linkage from the valve at the bottom through the drain plug hole.
I've tried that before and didn't find it any easier. Sometimes they go on easy and sometimes not.
Thanks for the video and the correct orientation on the valves.
Thanks for watching
Just finished rebuilding my hydraulic pump. Just wanted to add that a good sharp wood chisel made it a breeze to scrape original gaskets right off the valve bodies. Very little wire wheel brushing needed, and an occasional shot of brake cleaner helped to loosen and no dust.
Man that was a thorough video! I cant wait to see her all together and running.
31 Ford Yeah sometimes I wonder if I should get too in-depth but then I think about those that may never have done it so I'll go into detail more. These Fords always attract the newbies probably more then any make or model so I try to help them. LOL
Great series, lots of good info thank you for your hard work. I would have loved to have seen this 3 years ago, when I did mine.
Glad you enjoyed it!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for another excellent video, Jason.
jerryf609 Thank you again Sir.. Appreciate the compliments. Stay tuned. Two more parts to go. I hope
Excellent video Jason!!! I've learned alot from your videos, thanks for making them!!! Keep Rocking it out!!!
Your Welcome Pat I'm glad you have found them helpful. That's why I made them.
Looks good! Very cool to see how that pump works! I remember doing the top shaft on the 5610 lot more linkages and alot more to be afraid of lol! The bushings on the newer style slide right in not to big of a pain but the shaft is 2 1/2 inches round and the lift brackets are a pain to get lined up. Very cool project to follow along with! Its gonna work like a top when its all done!
Ford Farmer I sure hope it works good. I'm always nervous during any restoration. LOL
Jason1Pa I sure know the feeling! When I did the hydraulics on the 5610 I was scared if it was all gonna work!
Any help as to how you got yours apart would be very appreciated.
To help with installation of the bushings...............Put then in the freezer for a few hours. That will shrink them and they will slide in much easier.
I didnt have them in the freezer but I had them sitting outside for a while. The temps that day were in the low teens with a bad wind chill. Didn't help. The replacement bushings were about .010 fatter then the originals which wa probably the main problem. I actually took some material off of the bushing to help get it in there. Enough off to help get in but once cooled down would not rotate i the housing. I don't go in to all the detail in the videos because it would be way too long. Most people don't replace these anyway. These really didnt need done but I figure I would just for the video
My 3 point of my 8n would go up if the pto was engaged but wouldn’t go down
Even if I used the draft control ....
Pulled the side cover off.
Found the control valve and lever laying in the bottom of the reservoir....
Dropped the pump.... the casting had broke where the control valve lever pins into the pump body casting
Mine was an aluminum pump so I couldn’t weld it .... (I can weld cast iron pretty good ) not aluminum....
I would up making a bracket. Drilling and taping both pieces
And screwing the broke casting back together.....
took it plowing the next day .......
Now I need to rebuild the steering system and find out why the engine only runs smooth on half choke
Thinking it’s either
Carb or timing/distributor ...
Glad to hear you are getting it doing. The pumps crack due to water and it freezing for the most part.
What year is your 8N? I just changed my 1948 8N steering gear box to the later style gear box. There are a couple of simple modifications to do but it's well worth it. I'm going to try and make a video of what I did soon.
Check your manifold and gaskets for leaks. You may be getting too much air sucked in and the choke is compensating for it.
Jason1Pa mine is a 47.
And it showed signs of having water in it. There was a rust line about 3 m” above the bottom of the reservoir.
I needed get a new manifold
A new steering gearbox
New tie rod ends
And drag links. And possibly a new carb or distributor....
Jason1Pa I checked the manifold first. It had two cracks I welded and jb welded over them ... but I’m sure it’s still leaking
My lower pump pistons were different (probably original) so after tearing it apart and playing rubix-cube I finally got the correct positioning. Then I took my Dremel tool and marked the 2 pieces that had to align so that when I went to place new gaskets I would know which way they had to go back together.
antuan734 Good idea!!
I want to know how you got the lift shaft and the bushings out.........
My lift shaft is way too tight in the housing and bushings to even turn by hand and I'm not sure why........
I didn't do anything to it to make it tight.
And it's never been apart.
And I think one of the bushings is turning in the housing......
This particular tractor fortunately came apart real easy. The bushings came right out by hand. Getting the new ones in was a tricky job. Is the top part already off of you tractor? If so I'd put it up on its side and heat it up and spray some PB Blaster down in there. Was it always fine then suddenly got stuck? Was the tractor sitting a long time?
Can’t wate to get started
I would replace those four boots that hit against the new casting with allen head bolts
Would of worked. I don't have anyplace close by that sells them that big I don't think plus it was a quick fix and didn't have to run to go get anything. The integrity of the lift was not in harm just to do a little grinding
Great video, how did you manage to get the pins out of the linkage? I’m having a lot of trouble trying to get them out
I'm not sure if I'm following you? Which pins?
Thanks for the fast reply! And that’s my fault I worded it wrong, the linkage its self did you just pull the linkage arms away from the control valve ?
@Anonymous-dt6dq Yes. It can be tricky. It helps if you have both inspection plates off and a helper on the other side. I can really say there is a procedure to use. Sometimes it goes together easy Sometimes not. Just make sure there is enough tension on the linkage to squeeze the control valve or it will pop off. Just squeeze the linkage together when disconnected to get it springy enough.
Thanks a lot man I got it ! Now I’m fighting with the cover to come off lol
@Anonymous-dt6dq They get stuck pretty good. If it is the original gasket they are extremely hard to get off. I personally get a angle grinder and a wire wheel to clean it off.
Hey, I'm not sure if you still look at the new comments, but I've noticed that you are very knowledgeable about these tractors. If you have time, I would ask for your input.
I have an 8n. Draft control seems to work perfect. My issue is with the position control. The lift shaft arms will almost go 70-90 degrees up, in the up position. When I flip the lever down, the arms only drop by about 20 degrees or so. The actual arms are too high to even be parallel to the ground.
What would you suggest checking and possibly replacing?
Yes I always check comments.
First I would try adjusting the lift control lever. There are 4 bolts that need loosen to make the adjustment. You might get more travel with the lift arms. If that doesn't help I'd take the whole top plate off (what your seat attaches to) and check the small pin that rides on cam looking piece. If there is any were on that small pin they can give you a lot of issues.
P.S. video #7 in the Ford 2N series shows about that adjustment I'm talking about.
Jason, Great infomation man. Could you elaborate on how to remove just the lift arm with out removing the whole assembly. Horseshoe broke trying to take one side off to weld horseshoe. Any suggestions? I have heated, soaked in oil and vinegar. This is a 1948 Ford 8N. Thanks in advance. Bill in SC
Payerl Sailing Well Bill it sounds like your doing the right thing. They can be very stubborn. What are you using to heat it up?
Oxygen and acetylene torch. Moved the heat around to heat up the entire area where the arm is seated to the shaft, trying not to heat the shaft. Not sure how hot it needs to be but it was hot to the horseshoe end. It just will not budge. Bill, SC
Payerl Sailing Hmmm?? Seems your doing everything right. They can be miserable. This particular one on the video came off real easy. Can you weld the broken piece while its on the tractor? Or worse comes to worse take off the whole top part then weld the piece. I know its easier with it off but.....
Payerl Sailing Just thought of something.. If you would take the whole top part off you would be able to put it on its side to put your choice of penetrating oil right into the splines and it would run down in. Especially heating and spraying and letting it sit and soak would have to help
WATCHING ONE OF YOUR OLD VIDS ON 9N REPAIR WHAT DID YOU USE TO GET LIFT ARMS OFF
Would you tell us what the acceptable clearance between the pump piston and the valve chamber bore is?
So sorry for the late reply. None of my manuals give a measurement. Simply says if you see scratching or wear to replace parts
Necesito saber como armar caja de cambios para que ande lijero es un Ford ni modelo 47
Espero que estos videos puedan ayudarte. ¿De donde eres?
Hola de nuevo soy de Uruguay tengo un Ford 8 n la máquina
@@ricardoaguiar3584 Tengo un 8N también. En el video, el tractor es un Ford 2N. Muy similar pero también diferente. Desearía que mi español fuera mejor. Mi esposa es de venezuela. Ella habla español perfecto. ¿Vives en Uruguay o vives en los Estados Unidos?
Hi Jason, my Dad who past away this year, unfortunately broke the seat of the tractor off and cracked of the hydraulic top where the seat mounts. My question should I have it welded or replace the part and were do I get this part?
It would be probably be easier to have it welded if possible or get a whole complete assembly off of a parts tractor so you don't have to worry about changing out the lift arms. They can be a real bear getting them off the splines.
Why didn't you clean and paint it before you reassembled it
Gerald Giles Because I am going to strip it down to the bones and paint it with a good automotive paint with base clear. I don't want to spend big money on a paint job then test the tractor out. I wouldn't want to mess it up if I had any issues and take it apart again. Also it was winter time and I don't want to paint in the building I was in. The other building doesn't have heat at this time.
Because the customer was a cheap bastard and this job was low balled.
How much is a pump kit
Generally a whole kit will be in the 100 to 200 range. You can buy parts individually which is actually better because most of the parts never need replaced. Are you sure you are actually needing a pump? Most of them out there have probably never been rebuilt.
My 3 point wasn't going up ,sent it in for repairs, I think the guy did more damage...... need a few parts now that he broke and lied about. Anyone got a parts tractor 9n that I can pick a few things from? PA, MD,WV ,Del, I'll travel if need be . I want my baby fixed
What are you needing?
@@Jason1Pa Jason thanks for replying I was hoping you would, I believe the stupid mechanic didn't disconnect the arms before taking off top cover. I believe I need the arms protruding from the pump. He called it a rockshaft but he's hey John Deere guy. I can look in my manual and get you Parts numbers. Guy told me that yesterday tractor Steiner's and New Holland didn't have the part. It's going to require me to split the tractor and I'm not prepared for that no cherry picker or anything
@@tomr3074 I wouldn't be able to help you with the parts unfortunately. Yeah your going to need to find the original part from someone junking a tractor. They don't make that part new cause it's not something that goes bad. It is considered the "Lever Assembly" part number 9N504B I hope fork that attaches to that (part number 9N540) isn't damaged either.
If he pulled it up with out disconnecting it the control valve probably broke to. Actually I would think that would break before the the fork would break but who knows?? You don't need to split the tractor when doing any kind of hydraulic repair. The top cover is heavy but probably more awkward then anything. If two people lift up on it it's not too bad.
@@Jason1Pa thanks Jason , I'll put a add on cl and rejoin yesterday's tractor ,maby kirk or someone has what i need .kirk usually has weights too for sale. Thanks a million for your time and knowledge.
@@tomr3074 yeah he seems to have a lot of parts. If he doesn't let me know I have a few guys numbers that have a good bit of parts too. Where you live exactly? I have a couple numbers of Ford guys out east in Pa.