Perfect Veneer Seams!
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2021
- I use a regular 10” table saw and a unique, shop-made "veneer sled" to create perfect veneer seams. The straight edge (which is anchored down & parallel to the miter slots) guides the sled through the blade. (Here, the blade I’m using is a Forrest WWII) to create perfectly tight veneer seams straight off the table saw...ready for glue! And of course...I share tons of woodworking tips along the way. This will also be in my upcoming Ebook volume II, Tricks of the Trade. Much thanks.
Check out volume I Tricks of the Trade:
ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/...
Visit my website for woodworking plans, fixtures & tutorials:
ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/
On Instagram: / ramonartful
Oak end grain veneers available from: certainlywood.com/
Darren Oates UA-cam channel (sandpaper/glue/better seam trick) Thanks Darren!
/ @darrenoatesfinefurnit...
I'm Ramon Valdez...I've been doing woodworking for several decades. I'm passionate about sharing my processes & techniques and I'll show you quick & easy solutions to many woodworking related projects. Join me on this journey as I build this channel, let me know what topics you'd like to see, do me a huge favor and click that subscribe button! I can guarantee that you'll learn something! Thank you tons!
Thanks for the great tips and showing your setup Ramon!
Thanks Tye...I appreciate the feedback!
Good stuff Ramon !
Thanks Kendrick!
‘Sliption’ and ‘gription’ have now been added to my vocabulary. Excellent as always Ramon 👌thanks
Ha ha... yeah, my teachers you always say...”tell me in your own words”! 😆. Much thanks.
Thanks for putting these videos out. I learn something new every time I watch your content.
Also I recently found your podcast and am enjoying that as well!
That is fantastic to hear...I simply love showing/sharing what works for me! Thanks for the good words
There are so many woodworking channels on YT and you can spend, as I did, a whole weekend going through them and working out who is going to add value to your work whilst doing it in a professional way. I’ve been woodworking for 45 plus years and think I can tell the difference from a chancel and someone who knows what they are doing.
This channel is one of those relatively few (6 or 8 max) who I follow assiduously. There is not a single thing done that I don’t agree with and learn from. Some of the products may not be in a style to my taste - but the client obviously does like them and, as they say, style is personal whilst skill is universal.
So, I really suggest you watch these videos. You will learn and be entertained. I’ve no connection whatsoever with RV. I live in the UK, never met RV and, probably, never will. Just a recommendation from a satisfied viewer
Dang man…I sure do appreciate the good words and positive feedback. Means a lot to me. Much thanks. 👊🏼
Love it. Great idea.
It works so well! Glad you like
Ramon, just started watching you videos, and was thrilled to see the veneer sled working better than the way I was taught. I hope you would be proud that someone is going to use your idea and build one .
I learned different ways that I always thought were slow. Veneer saw, straight edge and saw or router, shooting sandwiches …nothing satisfied me. But my veneer sled? It works amazingly well. And, I have an awesome idea for when I make a new one. It’ll be a YT vid. Much thanks!
Hey Ramon, another excellent video and thanks for the mention, all the best from Australia
Thanks a ton Darren. I appreciate the watch and feedback 👊🏼
Ramon, I just discovered your channel recently and I must say it has become one of my favorite channels. You come up with some insanely creative ways of doing things. This is such a simple, yet genius solution to cutting veneer. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I appreciate the good feedback!
You are the best none hype popular ww UA-cam channel, love your work and your educational videos.
I really appreciate that...much thanks
Awesome idea! Had wondered at first why you didn't just use the miter slots but the straight edge is key to getting the range you need for the "rip" cuts. Definitely gonna make this. Thanks!
Yes…you’re correct! This thing works so well that even though I have a slider, I prefer this set up! Much thanks.
I really want to give veneering a serious try, thanks for sharing
You should! It’s an incredible world with nearly unlimited possibilities whenst working with wood!
I so wish I lived around you so I could just come hang out and Learn your ways....amazing!
😊Thanks so much...I do have fun in my shop
Ramon, just wondering if you plan on making a video on how to make a veneer slide or how to use this veneer sled to make a radial match
I do plan on making another veneer sled that will be even better than this one. And this one is awesome! 😆
I have another simple shop made device that would also help. I’ll share that in the new vid.
Are you in a hurry to see this? I may have video on Instagram that shares that. LMK via IG and I can steer you there. Or is you can wait a bit…thanks
Solid Video Again!👌
A suggestion for sled cleats/runners
I've been using baltic birch stripes for my cleats for my cross cut sleds. Then paste waxed for easier sliding. It's been working well for me.
That’s a great option for sure. Very stable. Thanks for the input!
@@ramonartful Your very welcome!
Thank you for a great video. I'm trying to figure out if what you refer to as conversion varnish here and regularly in the woodworkers podcasts is what we call acid catalyst lacquer in the UK. I think it probably is. Ours is mixed about 10:1 with the a/c hardener and has been our industry standard furniture finish for decades, it being harder than a, basic precat lacquer.
Yes...I’m assuming that is the same thing. Harder and more durable than regular precat lacquer and the most important difference is that it holds up to moisture! Thanks a ton for checking it out.
Hi Ramon, Been learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share! I noticed you use pre-cat lacquer and conversion varnish quite a bit. Can you share your experience with brands that you use?
That’s great to hear…thanks! And with the CV and lacquer, I’ve only used Sherwinn Williams brand for both.
Hi Ramon. Have you done any videos demonstrating a 4-way book match? I can do a simple book match but I'm stumbling with the 4-way. Thank you. Vince.
Hello! I don’t have any videos of that. I have done them for small boxes. It’s a fun process…essentially creating a book match and an end match. What specifically is your stumble?
I do plan on making a video on my simple but hugely effective process for a starburst pattern. I’d probably add a four way match…but don’t know when that would be. So many things to do! 😆 thanks
@@ramonartful The order of the steps. Seems like you need to worry about 2 center seams, then the ends. Do you simply create 2 book matches and follow that with a single end match? I'm using some burl (an experiment) so it seams that after making the book match, I'm chasing the next match. I must be over complicating it....
Oh gotcha. I’d have all the pieces cut close with the grain aligned. Then I’d glue a pair of end matches. Then slice those sets & trim perfectly…then connect. Hope that makes sense
@@ramonartful Thank you.
Not sure why this dude isn't one of the top woodworking UA-camrs.
That’s what I’m wondering! 😬 I need more subscribers, because it’s a ton of work! Anyway, much thanks
@@ramonartful while I have you. We have a siding table saw at my work and I hate using it. My biggest problem is ripping full 8 or 10 ft long sheets in wide (30" plus) pieces. Do you have any tips for this. Crosscut fence in the front and table fence all the way extended is how they taught me.
@@misterfee6467 Yeah, I remember that can be a bit awkward for one guy. It's sometimes hard to push the sheet through, past the blade at the end of the cut...is that what your'e meaning? We had a long outfeed table...about 8' long past the saw and about 8 feet wide. So it wasn't too bad.
@@ramonartful we also have large out feed, I often get binding toward end of cut I think it's the front fence and table fence combination or I'm posting in the wrong spot/ direction. Do you put pressure mostly down or toward the fence
@@misterfee6467 sorry...I don't see these comments/replies on my phone.
I'd say it's a combination of downwards pressure and slight pressure towards the table fence...all the while pushing forward. I like TopCote or GlideCote as its now called to reduce friction on the table saw and outfeed table.
Para plásticos debe ser fantástico, solo una duda ¿el tipo de disco?
Now, the english version: That sled seems to me like a fantastic way for cut plastics, only one doubt, the type of disc.
Thanks for sharing Ramon
Gracias or compartir Ramon
Sí, funcionaría bien con plásticos. Probablemente con esta misma hoja de sierra. 🙏🏼
Thanks. I like it, and great info. I haven't done much veneer work but have an upcoming project that will require a veneered door. What saw blade are you using?
Glad you liked it. The blade is a Forrest WWII which I absolutely love and have four of them. The ATB grind severs the fibers cleanly for perfect cuts! (Even though it’s a rip blade!😆) I didn’t have a link to the saw blade but I believe I stated that in the description. Thanks
I love your channel and have learned a lot. I will definitely build this jig. One thing that I see in this video is your method of joining the veneers. It looks like you are gluing the edges together which is different than almost all other seam instruction that just have you holding them together with tape and relying on the tape and back glue to hold the seam together though I have seen this method before. I tried it with some oak veneer and wound up with a visible seam - a dark line. Could you give some tips on how to use this method or maybe even a video? I searched your channel and couldn't find any. Thanks!
Thanks…I’m thrilled to hear that you’ve learned from my videos!
Oak, in particular (amongst many species) should make an invisible seam. I’m not sure why yours showed a dark line. Of course, the quality of the two adjoining edges must be perfect. Not only dead straight but also square or at least corresponding angles if any.
I know that traditionally, seamed were only taped as you mentioned.
This never made sense to me and I’ve never just taped them without glue. If the two adjoining pieces don’t get tight whilst in the bag or however the veneer is being clamped, glue can migrate through the gap(s) and then show up as a dark or glue line.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m working on a project now that will have veneer seams. I’ll show my process. Thanks
A nicely designed jig Ramon. Thanks for sharing.
About the zero clearance aspect: Do you cut the sandpaper with your blade? Also, not sure how much effect the "top zero clearance" has as the blade is always cutting through the veneer from above with or without the top plate. The top plate is certainly useful in compressing the veneer pieces and holding them in place for a clean cut.
Paul
Hello Paul! I should have been more clear. You’re correct... the top sacrificial board isn’t really a zero clearance...but it is absolutely necessary for getting a clean cut. And no, I don’t cut through the sand paper. I made the cut, then adhered the sand paper right up to the kerf edges. Thanks a ton for checking it out and for the feedback.
Brilliant jig mate! Do you think this is a good way to cut veneer for a chess board especially in figured timbers or burls to minimize back end tear out? Using a spacer/reference fence to keep the strips even in width of course. I could cut it using an exacto but it's all burl walnut and birdseye maple I'm concerned with tearing grain out.
It would work for that. The key would be a sharp blade (I prefer an ATB grind) and a good way to sandwich the veneer really tight. Like a braced board on top held down with a clamp.
If you have any issues, you may try lightly misting the veneers with veneer softener. Especially if they’re wavy...they must be flat prior to working them. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the tips. I've got a brand new blade waiting for it and thankfully the veneer is very flat. I'll give it a shot!
Great video! Why not just use the mitre slots on the saw?
Thanks. The miter slots work well for something smaller/shorter...and I do have a small sled that rides in them. But for longer veneers...the long length of the straight edge will improve accuracy.
@@ramonartful Thanks! That makes sense.
I know you said the company where you got your phenolic straight edge is out of business but where can I find phenolic material. I’ve had no luck at all finding any. TIA
Actually, there is a company that sells these now. For a long time, their max length was 96” but I see they have longer ones now! Check out DK Hardware
CRL SEP144 144" Phenolic Straight
I’m not sure about phenolic material. I do know it’s expensive! Thanks
How are you keeping your pencil on your shirt?
With incredible magnets! I’ve been doing this for nearly 25 years. I use two of em…one inside and one on the outside. They’re 1/8” thick x 1/2” round. It always initiates conversation when in public 😆
What type of sawblade are u using. 80?
You may be surprised…I use a Forrest Woodworker II with fantastic results! It’s actually a rip blade but the tooth configuration (ATB) means that it slices cleanly through the veneers. Thanks
It’s a 40 tooth blade
No pun intended on 9.27
Yes…pun intended! 😬👊🏼
Smash that button???
Yes…the subscribe button! 😬