I always liked these standing pilot furnaces. They always start quietly with the big whoosh and the hissing sound from the burners. The power vent on the current furnaces are loud.
This is the most informational video on old furnace , I came across an unit like it today and it make me a little bit nerves, so I wish I could learn it before I went to the field. Thank you TY.
By far the best video on UA-cam when it comes to these old style furnaces. Best video BY FAR!!!! One question. Maybe I have to watch the video again to see if you mentioned it but why does the collector box have an opening on the bottom? What purpose does that serve? Thank you
Thank you! The idea is for delusion air and back draft. As the gasses travel up and out it would pull heat away from the heat exchanger making the furnace less efficient. By adding delusion air is slowed the exhaust gas draft leaving more heat in the heat exchanger longer and moving slower for better heat transfer. Second, if a back draft or windy day occured and the flue gas came back it would divert out of the furnace section (draft diverter). The idea that's better than it pushing the flame back into the heat exchanger and out into the burner section burning the wires and why ever else the flame may touch. Great question!
00:00 AFUE 2:00 door safety switch/ door interlock 2:30 filter 3:00 cut away and first view of the heat exchanger 5:30 draft hood collection box 5:50 first view of combination gas valve 7:08 lighting pilot 11:10 firing the furnace 11:34 flame burning onnthe heat exchanger 21:00 pulling the blower assembly 24:00 removing the blower from the housing 31:20 blower wheel 33:0 blower bracket 44:50 top section of the furnace 35:00 combination gas valve, removing burners 38:00 lighting the pilot, clear view 41:15 igniting the burners out of the heat exchanger 43:12 pilot assembly 46:20 combination gas valve manifold spud orfice 49:38 burners 52:00 fusible link 53:00 Fan, Limit switch 56:00 wiring and wire diagram 1:10 pulling the heat exchanger
Well done, thank you for taking the time to post a great piece of information. I have an old P75 pioneer unit that's pretty similar, and your video was really helpful. TY
I appreciate your support. Please do not use 3in 1 3 in 1 oil isn't really oil, it's a lubricating solution that has oil in it, among other things such as corrosion protection and rust prevention. None of which has anything to do with lubricating motor bearings. It's known to gum up inside the motors
I have an old Johnson Air ease model HAS130 that quit yesterday ( it was 5⁰ ). I tested the thermocouple, went from 11mv down to 5 so as soon as the store opened this AM got a new one, installed , lit pilot and got it operating watched it awhile then I found your video - my furnace has the gas on for a min. or so then goes back to pilot with motor still running, then about a min. Later flames back up and repeats. I noticed you mentioned that in your vid so I checked the fan- limit switch and observed it doing as you said - twists around them back turning on / off the flames . I then removed the inlet filter and blew alot of fine dust out thinking perhaps the air flow is restricted not allowing enough airflow through the duct side of the exchanger causing an overheating problem making the limit switch operate . When I put the air filter back in I noticed the pilot had gone out -? It shouldn't have but I relit the pilot and tested - same situation with the limit switch. I just looking for some advice - now I am thinking perhaps the combustion exhaust vent might have a dead bird or something in it seeing the vent pipe goes up the old coal boiler chimney (1940 house). It does bother me that while I was blowing out the air filter , the pilot went out. ... Thanks for your videos, I hope you see this and can advise . Charles in Cheyenne Wyoming
Hello Charles First and foremost make sure you have a low level CO monitor in the living area and each bedroom. NOT an alarm but a LOW LEVEL monitor. Big difference in operation. There is usually second limit switch in the furnace. This is a also fusable link. Typically probably and wired in series to the thermocouple at the CGV. Check to make sure that is in good shape. Ohm it out. Use a mirror and look in the heat exchanger for any cracks or metal fatigue. Pull the blower and look up and the heat exchanger for any metal fatigue. It can also be Heat exchanger or flue cloged up. The alignment of the thermocouple in the flame. The thermocouple itself, even new ones can be bad. The pilot light office cloged not burning a correct flame. The gas valve dirty or clogged. The gas valve has worn out. Gas pressure to low coming in. House in negative pressure. I have a good friend that lives in Cheyenne but they don't do HVAC.
It’s the new systems that worries me more because they are so cheaply made the heat exchangers will leak within a few years the old ones were designed more solid I haven’t seen any old heat exchangers go bad except I see a ton of the new systems with bad heat exchangers that’s scary to me
These older furnace lasted and were relatively easy to work on but man after 50+ of other tech rigging things up, it could get irritating. apartment maintenance
Can you explain how a gas’s oven with a electrical heat element works (this element looks like the gas valve is in series with the element) Looks like the hot elament ignites the gas when the gas valve opens. Am I correct or is there more to this oven system. This is a caloric gas oven.
I guess the real question is why would you need to dilute the combustion gases? If that collection box was sealed then it would just vent out naturally wouldn't it? And you wouldn't have to worry about a backdraft pushing all that combustion air back and out of that wide open collection box. I'm confused of why even dilute the combustion gases to begin with
If you did not the gass would be hotter and lighter, traveling up faster. This would pull more heat from the heat exchanger and draft more heat out the flue. By diluting the flue gases more of the heat can stay in the heat exchanger and transfer into the home.
I have question; I am HVAC tech and many times I faced pilot furnace and lots of Rust from heat exchanger and no heat . I tell client to replace furnace and even show the client that rust separated from heat exchanger not good but client starts to harrass me and says he wants heat . Personally I dont like to fix standing pilot because of safety but customers think that I want to sell furnaces to them but unfortunately I don't work for myself and work for company;otherwise i would not accept these kind of customers . If you make video how to deal with these customers;it will be great . Thanks a lot
That's a great point. I will add that to the list. It's a touchy subject for sure. There are a lot of people that love standing pilot and keep repairing them regardless of the condition. On the other hand there are some that are actually in good shape and people cond them. More important than anything is the natural draft and how wind and home conditions such as running an exhaust fan can put the home in negative pressure. I will eventually do a class on this as well. What I did was perform a combustion anylaysis from start up to run. It's one of the best ways to show a faulty heat exchanger. Then I would document with pictures the burners and heat exchanger. I would weigh the amount to rust I removed and note that on the invoice. I would also have the home owner sign a separate paper releasing from all liability of the furnace. They acknowledged the risk of running the furnace. I also left a pamphlet about CO and the importance of a Low level CO monitor and why it's needed more than a co alarm. After all that I felt comfortable leaving the old furnace in place. As long as I informed them of the risk involved it was their lives at risk and their choice to make. I will try to make some more videos on all this this winter.
Dismantling, not desmantaling. I’m not saying this to pick on you but rather to help people find your video more easily when they type in the proper spelling.
Yeah. Old. Inefficient. Still works. The old man throws some oil on it, scrapes the flame sensor, brushes the burners. Still runs after 40 years. Blows hot air at the register. He kicks it up to 68° F or what Boomers call room temperature. Turns it down to 65° F at night. It kicks on once during the night if the temperature is above 30° F. Twice if it's below 30° F. My 90+% efficiency furnace? Can't oil it. Constantly service and replacing parts. Feels like a warm breeze at the register. Kicks on quite often at any temperature setting. Maybe twice an hour if set at 72° F or Gen X room temperature. Kicks on even more at 68° F to the point it might as well run constantly. Runs better at 72° F. Probably going to spend $7,000 next year to replace? It's been 15 years since installation. Which one is better again? Ohhhhhh... The one that keeps people employed.
They stoped making standing pilots 27 years ago. The old stamped steel heat exchanger expanding and contracting every cycle leads to cracks. Moisture in the air over time causes rusting more every year will just not last for ever. The heat exchanger separates the fumes of combustion from the air in the house. Carbon monoxide killes 430 people every year and 50,000 people to the emergency room. It's not worth a life just because someone wants to save a little bit of money.
What Netflix and Movie streaming? This is all the you should need to be watching! Loving these videos. I watch them twice usually just to make sure!
Great voice, Well spoken, look for manufacturing spokes person work, videos on new equipment etc.
Thank you!
I always liked these standing pilot furnaces. They always start quietly with the big whoosh and the hissing sound from the burners. The power vent on the current furnaces are loud.
This is the most informational video on old furnace , I came across an unit like it today and it make me a little bit nerves, so I wish I could learn it before I went to the field. Thank you TY.
When you see these old furnaces be sure the customer has a low level CO monitor.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.ITS SOO NICE EXPLANATION ANG GREAT KNOWLEDGE. HELPED ALOT ABOUT FURNACE.
PLEASE KEEP POSTING VIDEOS.
I knew all this but you explained it well so I gave it a thumbs up👍🏻
By far the best video on UA-cam when it comes to these old style furnaces. Best video BY FAR!!!!
One question. Maybe I have to watch the video again to see if you mentioned it but why does the collector box have an opening on the bottom? What purpose does that serve? Thank you
Thank you!
The idea is for delusion air and back draft.
As the gasses travel up and out it would pull heat away from the heat exchanger making the furnace less efficient. By adding delusion air is slowed the exhaust gas draft leaving more heat in the heat exchanger longer and moving slower for better heat transfer.
Second, if a back draft or windy day occured and the flue gas came back it would divert out of the furnace section (draft diverter). The idea that's better than it pushing the flame back into the heat exchanger and out into the burner section burning the wires and why ever else the flame may touch. Great question!
@@love2hvac
Thank you. Love all your videos. Please keep putting them out!
thank you very much! you inspire
Great video,as always
Great video
Very useful and detailed. Really, I love it. Thank you
00:00 AFUE
2:00 door safety switch/ door interlock
2:30 filter
3:00 cut away and first view of the heat exchanger
5:30 draft hood collection box
5:50 first view of combination gas valve
7:08 lighting pilot
11:10 firing the furnace
11:34 flame burning onnthe heat exchanger
21:00 pulling the blower assembly
24:00 removing the blower from the housing
31:20 blower wheel
33:0 blower bracket
44:50 top section of the furnace
35:00 combination gas valve, removing burners
38:00 lighting the pilot, clear view
41:15 igniting the burners out of the heat exchanger
43:12 pilot assembly
46:20 combination gas valve manifold spud orfice
49:38 burners
52:00 fusible link
53:00 Fan, Limit switch
56:00 wiring and wire diagram
1:10 pulling the heat exchanger
The effort!
These are fantastic videos!!
Well done, thank you for taking the time to post a great piece of information. I have an old P75 pioneer unit that's pretty similar, and your video was really helpful. TY
I really appreciate that.
Thank you for another amazing video. i have been watching your videos. will 3in1 oil work instead of turbine oil?
I appreciate your support.
Please do not use 3in 1
3 in 1 oil isn't really oil, it's a lubricating solution that has oil in it, among other things such as corrosion protection and rust prevention. None of which has anything to do with lubricating motor bearings. It's known to gum up inside the motors
I have an old Johnson Air ease model HAS130 that quit yesterday ( it was 5⁰ ). I tested the thermocouple, went from 11mv down to 5 so as soon as the store opened this AM got a new one, installed , lit pilot and got it operating watched it awhile then I found your video - my furnace has the gas on for a min. or so then goes back to pilot with motor still running, then about a min. Later flames back up and repeats. I noticed you mentioned that in your vid so I checked the fan- limit switch and observed it doing as you said - twists around them back turning on / off the flames . I then removed the inlet filter and blew alot of fine dust out thinking perhaps the air flow is restricted not allowing enough airflow through the duct side of the exchanger causing an overheating problem making the limit switch operate . When I put the air filter back in I noticed the pilot had gone out -? It shouldn't have but I relit the pilot and tested - same situation with the limit switch. I just looking for some advice - now I am thinking perhaps the combustion exhaust vent might have a dead bird or something in it seeing the vent pipe goes up the old coal boiler chimney (1940 house). It does bother me that while I was blowing out the air filter , the pilot went out. ... Thanks for your videos, I hope you see this and can advise . Charles in Cheyenne Wyoming
Hello Charles
First and foremost make sure you have a low level CO monitor in the living area and each bedroom.
NOT an alarm but a LOW LEVEL monitor. Big difference in operation.
There is usually second limit switch in the furnace. This is a also fusable link. Typically probably and wired in series to the thermocouple at the CGV. Check to make sure that is in good shape. Ohm it out.
Use a mirror and look in the heat exchanger for any cracks or metal fatigue. Pull the blower and look up and the heat exchanger for any metal fatigue.
It can also be
Heat exchanger or flue cloged up.
The alignment of the thermocouple in the flame.
The thermocouple itself, even new ones can be bad.
The pilot light office cloged not burning a correct flame.
The gas valve dirty or clogged.
The gas valve has worn out.
Gas pressure to low coming in.
House in negative pressure.
I have a good friend that lives in Cheyenne but they don't do HVAC.
It’s the new systems that worries me more because they are so cheaply made the heat exchangers will leak within a few years the old ones were designed more solid I haven’t seen any old heat exchangers go bad except I see a ton of the new systems with bad heat exchangers that’s scary to me
These older furnace lasted and were relatively easy to work on but man after 50+ of other tech rigging things up, it could get irritating. apartment maintenance
I had a furnace just like that in a House built in 1978 I dont remember if it was a rheem or ruud except it was a beigh color
Can you explain how a gas’s oven with a electrical heat element works (this element looks like the gas valve is in series with the element)
Looks like the hot elament ignites the gas when the gas valve opens. Am I correct or is there more to this oven system. This is a caloric gas oven.
Im not familiar with ovens but it sounds similar to a hot surface ignitor on an 80% furnace.
ua-cam.com/video/_sLNEmM5RRw/v-deo.html
I guess the real question is why would you need to dilute the combustion gases? If that collection box was sealed then it would just vent out naturally wouldn't it? And you wouldn't have to worry about a backdraft pushing all that combustion air back and out of that wide open collection box.
I'm confused of why even dilute the combustion gases to begin with
If you did not the gass would be hotter and lighter, traveling up faster. This would pull more heat from the heat exchanger and draft more heat out the flue.
By diluting the flue gases more of the heat can stay in the heat exchanger and transfer into the home.
I have question;
I am HVAC tech and many times I faced pilot furnace and lots of Rust from heat exchanger and no heat .
I tell client to replace furnace and even show the client that rust separated from heat exchanger not good but client starts to harrass me and says he wants heat .
Personally I dont like to fix standing pilot because of safety but customers think that I want to sell furnaces to them but unfortunately I don't work for myself and work for company;otherwise i would not accept these kind of customers .
If you make video how to deal with these customers;it will be great .
Thanks a lot
That's a great point. I will add that to the list. It's a touchy subject for sure. There are a lot of people that love standing pilot and keep repairing them regardless of the condition. On the other hand there are some that are actually in good shape and people cond them.
More important than anything is the natural draft and how wind and home conditions such as running an exhaust fan can put the home in negative pressure. I will eventually do a class on this as well.
What I did was perform a combustion anylaysis from start up to run. It's one of the best ways to show a faulty heat exchanger. Then I would document with pictures the burners and heat exchanger. I would weigh the amount to rust I removed and note that on the invoice.
I would also have the home owner sign a separate paper releasing from all liability of the furnace. They acknowledged the risk of running the furnace. I also left a pamphlet about CO and the importance of a Low level CO monitor and why it's needed more than a co alarm.
After all that I felt comfortable leaving the old furnace in place. As long as I informed them of the risk involved it was their lives at risk and their choice to make.
I will try to make some more videos on all this this winter.
@@love2hvac
Thanks a lot for advice.
Great point 👍
If h.e. is 👍 keep it y replcace
Dismantling, not desmantaling. I’m not saying this to pick on you but rather to help people find your video more easily when they type in the proper spelling.
Yeah. Old. Inefficient. Still works. The old man throws some oil on it, scrapes the flame sensor, brushes the burners. Still runs after 40 years. Blows hot air at the register. He kicks it up to 68° F or what Boomers call room temperature. Turns it down to 65° F at night. It kicks on once during the night if the temperature is above 30° F. Twice if it's below 30° F. My 90+% efficiency furnace? Can't oil it. Constantly service and replacing parts. Feels like a warm breeze at the register. Kicks on quite often at any temperature setting. Maybe twice an hour if set at 72° F or Gen X room temperature. Kicks on even more at 68° F to the point it might as well run constantly. Runs better at 72° F. Probably going to spend $7,000 next year to replace? It's been 15 years since installation. Which one is better again? Ohhhhhh... The one that keeps people employed.
They stoped making standing pilots 27 years ago. The old stamped steel heat exchanger expanding and contracting every cycle leads to cracks. Moisture in the air over time causes rusting more every year will just not last for ever.
The heat exchanger separates the fumes of combustion from the air in the house. Carbon monoxide killes 430 people every year and 50,000 people to the emergency room.
It's not worth a life just because someone wants to save a little bit of money.