Campervan ELECTRICAL System Breakdown : COMPREHENSIVE | Ford Transit Conversion
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Ford Transit Van Build Australia | Vanlife Australia
We now have a website where you can access all our van 3D models, diagrams and complete cost breakdowns as well as Van Build Consulting
Visit our Website saltyvanventures.com
▬ FULL ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM tinyurl.com/mrxt3r9h
▬ 3D Models tinyurl.com/yckurw7e
▬ Cost Breakdown tinyurl.com/y8kkh6cr
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
▬ SHARE WITH US ▬
►Instagram: @salty_vanventures
/ salty_vanventures
►► CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE bit.ly/3afTJbu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remember to leave a COMMENT if you have a QUESTION and I will create another video dedicated to answering all your questions!
VIDEO CORRECTION The DCDC charger is limited to 25v input max (not limited by current as stated). Each panel produces around 22v so connecting in parallel was the only option as connecting in series produced 65v. Also the inline fuse located just before the cut of switch is actually 30 amps (not 10 amps as stated)! Apologies for the confusion. This has been fixed in the available diagram.
More from us!
Ford transit van build episode 1 ► • FLOOR INSULATION (and ...
Chile Van Build ► • Vanlife South America
NZ Van Tour here ► • VAN TOUR | DIY Stunnin...
PARTS USED SO FAR
Here is the list of parts and items used in this video. These are affiliate links for which I may be compensated if you purchase from the link. Buying from these links help supports this channel.
FROM THIS EPISODE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Electrical
Circuit breaker amzn.to/3ah2iWz
2000w Pure Sine Wave inverter amzn.to/2P231Dr
DCDC 50amp charger amzn.to/3vS6B3x
Battery Monitor amzn.to/3cbsfrR
Double Pole GPO outlet ebay.us/zwtLYs
12v Switch Panel amzn.to/31r1z3M
Isolator switch amzn.to/3v01Vr9
70 Amp Fuse amzn.to/32TOLnb
135Ah Lithium Battery amzn.to/3NmzVrq
Blade fuse box amzn.to/3xgz1Fo
Wire connector kit amzn.to/3EYDnU9
100m wire roll 12AWG ebay.us/VOijcB
Split loom wire protector amzn.to/3nUtbal
30Amp relay amzn.to/3tHIlQ8
In line fuse holder amzn.to/3meQwSc
12v LED downlights amzn.to/3lH7NCh
Dc-Dc 12v To 5v convertor amzn.to/3AePbRN
12v USB charging port amzn.to/3G0sQsR
Solar Setup
100w solar panel ebay.us/N3rl0G
Large panel solar panels ebay.us/sWUKuw
Solar Cable Entry Housing Mount amzn.to/2QrvliZ
Solar Inline fuse amzn.to/2SZB15t
Solar Cable Extension amzn.to/3gZFPQj
Blue Sea GUIDE TO WIRE AND FUSE SIZING:
www.bluesea.com/resources/1437
0:00 Intro
1:45 Battery and Monitor
6:09 Distribution
6:55 Solar Power
9:44 Alternator Power
12:05 DC Loads
16:16 AC Loads - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for this video mate. I will be asking you questions when I get to this stage, which is not too far away. It is good that someone in Australia has done this video, for us locals it make is easier. Great jog mate.
Glad I could help
You are really good with what you do. Just figure it out. One of the best van conversions I've seen. ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL 🥰🥰🥰
Wow, thank you!
You are a hero - such a good video!! Your diagram is amazing and extremely helpful, thank you!!
Thanks so much. Glad it has been helpful!
Thank you for putting together such a detailed and informative resource for the community.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant!! At last a description I can understand. Well done. Thanks a heap. Keep it up.
Glad it helped!
Incredibly good quality video, loved the info! Thanks so much!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey champ, absolutely loving your content and I’ve been following along to the best of my abilities. Literally learning as I go along and I have you to thank! I had a question in regards to your electrical diagram; is it correct, that there’s no fuse in between your your house battery and positive busbar? Looking at your video and your layout under the seat, it looks like the positive goes from battery to shut off switch to fuse, then MPPT controller? I’m just on this stage now and I want to be certain before I hook it all up, thank you 🙏🏻 Love your work
Amazing video, thanks so much for putting it together, cheers
Glad you enjoyed it!
If I had friends or family, I would share it with them. You’re killing it
hahaha thanks!
Thank you so much for your video …we are converting a ford transit aswell and your videos are been soooooo helpful!! I have only one question …I bought 2 200w solar panel with 11.7amp short circuit and 1 100w 5amp …one the 100w the 10 amp inline fuse it’s ok ..but wtb the 200w ? Thank you again
Amazing! Thank you so much
You're very welcome!
Unreal mate, you’re a legend
I’ll take that! Cheers
Hi, where in the system do you earth the leisure battery? Do you earth it from the shunt, P- or your negative bus bar?
Great video and we'll explained
Thanks.for taking the time to post it
So glad I came across this channel. Any chance you could explain the storage area above the drivers seats? Like how you did that. Cheers, love your work
The platform was stock with the van. All i did was frame around the around the outside to hold the plywood and add a plywood bottom in the metal shelf as the metal one was uneven.
Thank you so much great video
You are so welcome!
Also important to add: The DC>DC controller you are using allows DC and solar connections via the same unit. If you buy a new MPPT charge controller, this alone does NOT allow for connection from the alternator. I made this mistake and am now upgrading to this model you have shown. The other option was to run a seperate DC>DC specific controller that is cheap, but just gets clumsier setup wise.
Cheers mate, I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos and used them a heap when building my camper.
Yes. Precisely why I bought this particular unit. They are a great combo and take up less space and complications that seperate units. The renogy units are also well priced in my opinion
Thanks I have loved all your videos. Just on series versus parallel, isn’t series adding voltage together , while parallel is adding amps. Also you have different panel sizes, so parallel is the perfect choice for your situation.
Yes, you are completely right. I have gone and got my brain wires twisted. The circuit runs at around 20v and 22amps. The DCDC charger has a maximum input voltage of 25v so yes that is why I have to connected it in parallel. Good pick up thanks!
+1 to this, you may need to increase the common fuse size to account for addition of amps too.
Looking neat otherwise!
I was just about to write the same thing about parallel/series! Great video though!
Hi again Marcel. Downloaded your wiring diagram and noticed that your wiring is much ‘beefier’ than others. Is that because of new regs since Nov 23, or are you just more cautious ? 😁
Hey Marcel, this was a really helpful video. Thanks for putting it together.
My understanding is the Renogy inverter has a “UPS function” that allows you to charge the battery thought mains. Do you know much about this function, and have you had a chance to test it out?
Hi, Yes it does have that feature but we have never used it. Nor do we every really plan on using it so i can't comment on it sorry
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
hi! Question: Do you use wall sockets to protect your sockets behind the walls?
This video and the links are so helpful! Was just wondering how many of each things you used, such as the circuit breaker, fuses etc. just want to make sure before I place my order. Thank you so much!
You should be able to work it out from the electrical diagram. I have made it exactly like my design. If you want to count the cheap blade fuses, just count how many many 12v utilities you will need. The fuse block holds 12 or 14 fuses i think.
I see that! Thanks man
What gages of wire did you use for what?
Hi Saltyvanventures. This is incredible, thank you. Are you a person who has always dabbled in things or are you just incredibly talented? If you factor in your time what did it cost you to make your cargo van into a camper here in Oz? Cheers, Mary in Tassie
Both haha! It's very hard to factor in the time as literally hundreds of hours went into it. Ill be making a video very soon with the total cost break down so hold on for that!
Excellent vids Marcel, where did you connect the signal wire for the MPPT charger, I have the van as you? Thanks in advance.
I believe i connected it to the ignition fuse with a back to back fuse. Its located under the front steering wheel
Thanks for a great instructional video, Can I ask which software do you use to design the cabinets and cupboards, many thanks Alan.
I use sketchup
Great video super helpful and clear. I’m just about to plan out my electrical system. The link to your wiring diagram isn’t available anymore… do you have it shared anywhere else? Thanks
So sorry about that. The link is working now
Thanks for the videos they r amazing.. question from solar to Renogy dc charger u have 8 gauge wire but all the inline fuse boxes I can find are only 10 gauge any suggestions?
It is pretty negligible. The reason i used 8 gauge for connecting the solar to the dcdc charger is to reduce the voltage drop over the length of cable.
What software are you using to draw up your wiring diagrams?
Hey! Great video, super helpful! Looking into buying the battery you linked here - is it still going okay 10 months down the line?
Yes it is still going strong and doesn't seems to be loosing any life at all. Very happy with the purchase.
Thanks for the video. Question: Does the b2b charger also allow the van's starter battery to be topped up by the solar panels? Thanks.
No i don't believe it does.
Also both positive and negative wires from the solar panels should be simultaneously disconnected. Not just the Positive wire...
Hey mate, love your videos and all that. Just wanted to say, I think you mixed up series vs parallel with the solar panels setup. It seems like you are running series but say you are running parallel. Series will add the voltages and keep current the same (which is what you say you have).
I am an amateur, so please correct me if I am not u derstanding?
The wiring diagram is in parallel. Not advisable to combine different size solar panels if you want efficiency.
Great video mate. It was so helpful.
Is there any chance I can get a copy of your electrical diagram? The link isn’t working for me
Sorry about that. The link is working again now
how much did it cost?
can you do a video on legal process? i’m planning to do the conversion and can’t see many videos on that
I have! ua-cam.com/video/Tzg0ifsxY-g/v-deo.html&lc=UgxYRCLNq8TzjNQnLzl4AaABAg&ab_channel=SaltyVanventures
I thought parallel connection has same voltage and amp is higher. Series conneciton added voltage and amp remain the same.
True. Check the description!
Sorry if I missed it but where did you connect the ignition fire from the renogy controller? Ive got a transit too and im a little confused as to where I need to run that
I piggy backed it off an ignition positive fuse in the fuse box under the dash. Use a test light or a multimeter to find a fuse which is 12v when ignition is on and use a piggy back fuse to wire it up
Am i able to have 2 of these fuse boxes next to each other and if yes how do i wire them to be connected? Thanks
I don’t see why not. Just wire a connecting wire between the two terminals
i just bought your wiring diagram, i was just checking before I bought the wiring, you have 1 piece of 4 gauge positive wire from the dc-dc charger to the 75a fuse then to the positive busbar, is this correct? The negative from the dcdc charger is 6 gauge ? Awesome work mate, you give us all hope cheers....
Hey mate great pick up. Yes they only both need to be 6ga. A maximum of 50amps over that distance only requires 6ga
Just wasted $20. You can get more accurate details on the internet for free...
Hey mate, regarding your brass bolts as bus bars…where do you mount them please…? Cheers, Steve
I mounted the them to the plywood board I mounted all the electronic components too
@@SALTYVANVENTURES Thanks Marcel. As others have said, it's great to follow someone who is familiar with Oz conditions and regs. Up till now, I have been trying to adapt what I see on Brit or American sites.
Hey mate, Great work on all the vids, very informative! I'm about to start my own build, just a quick question: What were u running that caused your inverter to flip the breaker?
I'm attempting to setup a gaming pc in a van. Cheers!
I was using a heat gun on max heat for too long which caused to breaker to trip. I think it was 1800w so i'm not too surprised it tripped.
Hi Marcel, the diagram for the wiring diagram is not there on the link you have provided.
It’s available again now!
Hey mate, the 200 W panel's Voc is 27 V, but the 50A MPPT DCDC max charge voltage is 25V. Wouldn't that burn out the charge controller? Just worried about doing damage as I have a 200W panel and the 50A charger too, cheers
I think you're asking the wrong person.
Hows the Renogy inverter going? Performing well/to capacity?
Yeh mate it hasn't missed a beat! So good for the price
Thanks so much for this! Super helpful!! I just completed the setup today using all Renogy kit and this video. Yay!!
I did leave out the switches between DC to DC and the car battery, and between the lithium battery and +be busbar. Do you think this is an issue? Everything is VERY close together.
I installed the cut of switches purely as a means to isolate the entire circuit if required for maintenance or if there is a fault to deal with. I almost always have both switches on.
Hi mate does your renogy battery monitor flash when power is going in ? Renogy say I have mine wired up incorrectly but it’s not. Negative from battery goes to the B then the p goes to ground.
You can turn that feature off. I'm pretty sure you hold the top or bottom button and it will disable it. I leave it off as its a bit annoying and also keep the backlight off.
@@SALTYVANVENTURES yeah I’ve got that turned off but wasn’t sure if yours did that as well. If so it’s a stupid feature
Where did you guys get your thicker guage wire in Australia? Also do you know where I can find that shorter distance guage chart?
J car sell it all
Did you put the panels in Parallel because the voltage would be too high for that mppt charger?
I have the same charger and have 2x 175W panels and wondering if my VOC will be too high
Thanks
Yes exactly as that DCDC charger MPPT has a max 25v input.
@@SALTYVANVENTURES thanks mate 👍🏿 love the videos
I have noticed in your diagram you did not ground the shunt P- to the chassis as always recommended standard practice.. Why?
It is grounded. The P- goes to the negative bar which in connected to the negative starter terminal and chassis ground
@@SALTYVANVENTURES All good mate well designed.
So clear! But definitely confirmed we don't have the know how to do it ourselves lol - can we pay you to do ours?! :P
Haha, Stay tuned as i will be releasing something very cool in the coming weeks that might help you out.
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road. We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
9:15 Isn't this incorrect? I've only just started researching this stuff so I could be wrong but I thought that wiring the panels in parallel would increase the amperage while keeping the voltage the same.
Yea you are correct. Check the description for the amendment
@@SALTYVANVENTURES Oh I didn't see that, thanks for the reply
You say you connected your solar panels in parallel because you wanted your amps to be low but connecting them in parallel adds the amps together.
What’s the alternative option?? 👀
Does the fusebox shown in this video not also double as a bus bar? Can somebody please tell me why you need to put in a seperate busbar?? 🤞
Yea it can be however it’s is only a low amp buss bar. Running the battery, inverter and other high amp appliances require a beefier bar. Hence while I’ve used a single large brass bolt
@@SALTYVANVENTURES thanks for the reponse, that helps 👍 this would be a good moment to thank you because we've taken a wealth of knowledge from your videos and website. We always try to purchase through your links 👍 thanks mate!
Thanks so much. Appreciate it!!!
Invaluable video man. We'll done. Do we need to engage an auto,/electrician or plumber here in Australia for certification or can you do it all yourself?
Thanks man! You don’t need an auto electrician for 12v. You need a plumber if your setting up gas appliances as they will need to supply you with a gas certificate and plate. You only need an electrician if you are dealing with 240v, ie shore power input or inverter) and only if the invertor is going to be supplying power around the van like my system rather than just plugging a appliance directly into the inverter, in which case you wouldn’t need to contact an electrician! Hope that helps
@@SALTYVANVENTURES Thanks man. Enjoy your travels & the pride you feel over your awesome van. We'll deserved for such a nice guy. Thanks for sharing the experience & passing on your knowledge to us Aussie's thinking of doing the same.
Thanks Ken an Salty Adventures, that was my question too. Best electrics video I've seen so far, and loving the Australian specific content. It's really helpful.l Thanks again!
@@juliewright6889 My Pleasure Julie. I aim to please :) Agree all his video's are very informative. Where are you based in Aus?
@@kjs1069 Sunny Melbourne. Still in the planning stages of my van build.
1. Wiring solar panels in Series will ADD their Voltages together while their Amperages stay the same.
2. Wiring solar panels in Parallel will ADD their Amperages together while their Voltages stay the same.
Solar panel installation can be a trap for inexperienced DIYers.
Oops that should have been " I have the same van as you". Also, when can we be enlightened by the contents of your new website?
the new website is a matter of days away! its been taking me a lot longer than i hoped!
Thanks for all the info, Marcel!
I've actually got most of these components, & have figured out how they connect together - but I'm still a bit confused about the busbars. This is now my second time watching this video, and after the first time, I decided to add the Renogy battery monitor. (I used your link, too!)
At this point, I understand about needing the busbars so that the shunt works. But are these just bolts that you put into your electrical panel, as common connection points? Or does the negative busbar attach to the vehicle metal body (as I have seen in some videos)?
Also, I'm trying to figure out exactly how you have rewired that switch panel & fuse-box (which are the exact same ones I have). It makes sense to only have one fuse per appliance, and to have all the fuses accessible in one place. I have figured out how to remove the fuses in the switch panel - but did you also remove the positive wires connecting all those switches together? (If you didn't, everything would shut off if one of the appliances overloaded - but that is how normal house wiring is done, after all!)
A buzz bar is essentially a hub for all the ports, like you said a common connection point. They are usually a brass block with threaded rods to allow terminal eyelet connections. I just used a large brass bolt and connected all the eyelets to one. In my design i didn't need to connect my buzz bar to the chassis (or ground) as the DCDC charger is already grounded to the negative battery terminal and hence the system is grounded. For the battery monitor to work you just need to make sure the shunt is the first thing directly off you negative terminal of your house battery. Yes so those switch panels come with an inline fuse holder for each switch. I didn't want my fuses there ( as they will sit behind the wall cavity, harder to access and you cant tell which fuse is blown without taking the switch panel out) so I ran additional cables from the fuze block to the switch to independently fuse each switched item from the fuze box. This way there are multiple positive wires going from the fuse box to the switch panel so no if one fuse blows only that switch/appliance will stop working, not the whole system. Hope that answers your question.
@@SALTYVANVENTURES Thanks heaps! I had figured some of this out, but you've filled in a few of the important holes... 😊
How much do you reckon your van is currently worth?
Hard to say in the current market. probably upwards of $70k
Hey Marcel. I'm going to send you a message through your website, my system is not too different to yours but i'd like to consult with you to design it properly. Cheers, Erin
I would ask an electrician or auto electrician. Some of this info is inaccurate or wrong. Eg. The solar cut off should be on both +ve and -ve. The cut off switch has a max voltage of 48 volts, where 65v is coming from the panels. Parallel adds Amps, Voltage stays the same. Serial adds Voltage, Amps stay the same.
Greetings from Southern California! I was under the impression it was a bad idea to mix solar panels of different wattages, because the bigger wattage would reduce its output to match the output of the lowest wattage panel, meaning your 200 W panels would only put out 100 W since the smallest panel is 100 W. Is that utter nonsense I’m hoping? Have you ever heard about this?
I have hear that too but after testing my solar system output, i'm achieving pretty much the designed output of the panels so i don't believe that to be true
@@SALTYVANVENTURES That’s good to hear! I’m about to build a wide roofrack for a ProMaster-I was impressed with your video tutorial on pop rivet assembly, thanks for that-The rack will carry a roof deck, so I’d like to pack the solar panels as tightly as I can around the vent fan, and not having panels all the same size would be helpful.
Different size panels is definitely an issue. But more complicated than just reducing to lowest panel. Check out a video from Explorist Life on the subject for more info. I am not sure of the specs of Salty Vanventures panels but I suspect he is losing out with this setup, probably get better results by just disconnecting the 100W panel.
I also wanted to pack my roof full even around the fans and ended up getting 3 x 200w panels and 4 x 80w panels, I then have 2 charge controllers for the different sizes.
@@andyjholloway Thanks for your input, I came across another van build with different sized panels and that’s what they did as well, they used two solar charge controllers, one for each size of solar panel. That seems like the way to go! I’ll check out the other source you mentioned, thanks!
@@spleerfloof Was that Jaz Morton (Jaz n Lori)? I was inspired by his panel layout.
Here's that video I mentioned :-)
ua-cam.com/video/jejro4zkl8I/v-deo.html
What did this setup cost?
I have a whole video devoted to that
You should point your viewers to a qualified person when installing solar panels. Running them in parallel as you have here may need fuses on each positive wire before the Junction. Incorrect installation can cause a van to burn to the ground...
Free comment to feed the algorithm 😊
Legend!
Was I dreaming or was this posted a few days ago?
Shhhh! haha