Good post, thanks. I had this same exact problem. Here are a few things i figured out while trying to find the correct video: (1) There are several versions (aka types) of this compressor. This seems to be the Type 5. It says it right after the model number on the tank label (C2002 Type 5). (2) Within the Type 5, there are three versions. One made in Taiwan, and two made in China (based on date made). There is another label on the back of the manifold that says where it was made. This is important because the piece you replace will vary based on the date and place of manufacture. (3) The bolt in the back that you removed with an allen wrench and then put back on with a wrench is really weak. I thought I thad to tighten it down hard since this is an air compressor and I snapped the head off. Be careful not to over tighten this piece. I would use the allen wrench.
*Construction seemed sturdier than other units I considered **MyBest.Tools** Noise level was reasonable. Good pressure and cfm capacity for a small reasonably light compressor.*
Best video I found to return my PC C2002 to normal operation! Mine had leaks from drain and the hose from manifold to pressure switch so would never reach 150PSI to shut off. I thought it was the pressure switch until I watched this video and read ALL the Comments. The Pressure Regulator also had stopped working. Here’s what worked for me: 1. Replaced the knurled drain since the rubber o-ring had disintegrated with an all metal 1/4” NPT T-valve from Ace HW. 2. Removed the Pressure Regulator knob and valve as shown in the video and cleaned it with WD-40 & 0000 steel wool. The valve was stuck all the way in high pressure position. Cean the valve piston very well and make sure it moves. I used a very light coat of plumbers grease on the piston and o-ring. Replaced the parts as in the video. 3. I tightened the factory hose clamp as shown in the video. Use a spray bottle with a cleaner that will show bubbles to check for leaks. I tested the compressor and it builds pressure to 150 and kicks on when the Tank pressure hits 120. I verified the Regulator pressure is fully adjustable. This video was very helpful as I only replaced the drain valve in this repair. Total cost: $7. $4.99 for the valve and $1.99 for pipe thread compound, all at Ace HW.
Thanks for posting this video. I was able to fix mine using this as reference. I didn't have to take the knob in the front off. I only removed the plastic cover and the rear assembly using a wrench. Found that the spring was compressed and stuck. A little WD40 and some twist and tugging got it free and I just put it back in and now the compressor works as it should. Took only a few minutes. Cheers!
Thanks. Mine is a Porter-Cable C2005 and had the same problem of a stuck brass piston. The outside appearance of mine is slightly different, but the regulator seemed to be exactly the same as yours. I cleaned up the brass piston and attached spring with a wire brush and fine sandpaper, then a drop of oil. While I was at it, I pulled out the black rubber piston/diaphragm on the front side, lightly fine-sanded the cylinder it moves in, and sprayed with silicone. Reassembled, and all is good. I've had this compressor for about 18 years, and lately it's been cycling on and off several times a day. Needed this repair for a while. . . I like your intro music, too.
I bought this same compressor at a pawnshop today. They wanted $80 for it but the compressor never shut off. I was thinking I either had to buy the manifold or the pressure switch. The guy at the pawnshop thought it was the manifold and said I could buy one for $40 so I told him I would buy it for $40 and he agreed. I've been searching for about 30 minutes when I found your video. My piston and spring were seized up just like yours. A little brushing and oil and it's good as new. I saved $25 bucks on the regulator kit and I have a great little compressor for $40 bucks. Thanks a bunch.
Big thanks I have modle c2006 type 3 and unable to locate new replacement regulator parts. After watching I had the frozen brass plunger component and was able to disassemble clean and fix. Many thanks I love fixes like this. Good for my wallet and the environment.
This is awesome. Thanks so much for posting this. I had the regulator apart 3 times trying to figure this problem out. Your video led me to the heart of the problem. It turned out to be the tiny “O” ring on the little bras plunger that slides in the little bread sleeve. It had dried out and wasn’t making good contact. When I went to remove it to inspect it, it just crumbled. Fortunately I had a suitable replacement on hand. After I replaced that tiny “O” ring it regulated great again. Thanks again!
thanks for the video - very helpful - when I took the 17mm off I pulled apart the valve from the back cap, silicone spray lubed it and made sure the check valve/spring could move freely. I re-installed and the leak is gone. Side note - when I took the regulator cap off I found a black plastic piece floating around - I discarded it before re-installing and it worked fine. Cheers!
Thank you, thank you! I was ready to scrap my pancake compressor since a new manifold/regulator was half the price of a new compressor. That little spring loaded valve on mine was gummed up. Cleaned it and applied a little mineral oil and the thing runs better than ever!
My man! This was the fix for me. The spring was totally seized up and the parts around it corroded. I hit it all with some steel wool and now back in business. I just wish I would have found this video before I bought a new pressure switch. I guess I have a spare now in case one breaks, so no big deal.
Just took mine apart cleaned the parts you took out sanded all the parts with 400 grit lightly. Put o- ring lube on the o- rings works great. Thanks for the video!
Very useful info. Took me 17 mm wrench (adjustable will work too), few drops of WD40, fine sandpaper, and 15 minutes tops to fix the leaking regulator. Now it is working as on day one. Saved me at least $25 and time. Make sure that you pull out the round plastic piece and clean it and inside the regulator with WD40 or silicone lube soaked felt. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks! I was pretty close but after watching your video, I got it apart. I cleaned up the current valve/spring assembly, and regreased. Works perfect.
Thanks a bunch!! I was about to trash my exact model, but decided to see if a fine good citizen made a video about repairing it. And I found you! Followed your instructions and now I have a perfectly good working tool. Thanks again!!!!
I didn’t have time to order the part so I removed the tiny rubber washer off the aluminum post under the brass fitting. I polished the post (had aluminum rust that was pushing out on the rubber washer). After that I replaced the rubber washer and the brass fitting and spring slid perfectly. Greased everything and put it back together and worked great.
thanks i used mine today and had to turn it down to 45 psi. the only trouble is when i did it went to zero and stayed there. set back scratching my head and it went back to working. and just before i was done it did it again never did work again. but after your video i cleaned it up and it seems to be working again. but still going to get a kit and keep it for a back up because we all know its going to di it again.
I think The big O ring should be shoved all the way far inside the big Black regulator twister (cap) before the final step to prevent air leakages.
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Your video is most helpful thank you However other failure points on a well used compressor 1.On/off switch failure 2.High pressure safety valve on manifold with pull ring corroded,not sealing 3.Gasket on cylinder head sealing aluminum output line broken-or missing 4.micro cracks in manifold assembly from harsh accidents Otherwise,you'll get 15 years out of the older ones made in USA
Hello ty for the help finding repair kit help An video . i would like to add if you have that excat confirmation shown in video you may not need big o ring behind black disk if you put it in an then pull black disk back out you will notice it falls in opening in housing at back. an o ring seems to be to big for opening. In diagram there is a whole valve assembly in front of it. Where as I an video maker don't .we have a spring an a black screw on knob. I left o ring out an it works perfectly. I may be wrong but thought I would say something ty again for video
I was taught in aviation especially with electro-mechanical hydraulic actuator to read continuity in the cannon plug pins that way you could tell if you had a bad actuator or if the wiring was bad. Changing a three hundred pound actuator to find out the there is nothing wrong with the actuator. Is it possible to read continuity on a pressure switch like E 108524 two wire two blade switch?
Should the pressure be backed off the spring when not in use to prevent spring from getting permanently compressed? I was thinking this may slow the wear on those parts.
Thank you for making this video! Do you know if that large o-ring is something added to the kit. Did you have that o-ring before you purchased the kit? Do you know the purpose of that o-ring? Think I need it? I'm not going to buy the repair kit. I have the exact model No. and mine doesn't have that large o-ring. I got the same problem with the back part corroded and froze up so I'm going to work it loose. Got it soaking in vinegar right now. Thank you again for the video.
I took mine apart, cleaned everything per your instructions, my spring was not seized. Put it together, and it still runs even thou the tank pressure shows 120, and regulator gauge shows approx 60. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Saludos cordiales desde Ecuador Estoy buscando repuestos para reparar el compresor porter cable de 6 galones motor 2.6hp con el del Video. Quiero repuestos como cilindro, pistón y sello del pistón? Puede ayudarme con link de tiendas para comprar repuestos
Well well. I just fix mine and no one of the videos help me. What I did was only with a pair of point players released the valve that is inside and oiled and come back to work the right way. But thanks for ideas and hope someone with same problem see my comment and try too
I had this problem too, what I was told is to not leave air in the tank for extended periods and the spring valve looses it ability to fully engage and you have leaks. It’s best to open the drain plug at the bottom to let all air and condensation out and leave it open until the next time you use it.
haha, the "knock test"? Never heard of that one. Something tells me that if you have soft spots in your tank you won't have to knock on them to find out...
Good post, thanks. I had this same exact problem. Here are a few things i figured out while trying to find the correct video:
(1) There are several versions (aka types) of this compressor. This seems to be the Type 5. It says it right after the model number on the tank label (C2002 Type 5).
(2) Within the Type 5, there are three versions. One made in Taiwan, and two made in China (based on date made). There is another label on the back of the manifold that says where it was made. This is important because the piece you replace will vary based on the date and place of manufacture.
(3) The bolt in the back that you removed with an allen wrench and then put back on with a wrench is really weak. I thought I thad to tighten it down hard since this is an air compressor and I snapped the head off. Be careful not to over tighten this piece. I would use the allen wrench.
Thanks for the great insight!
*Construction seemed sturdier than other units I considered **MyBest.Tools** Noise level was reasonable. Good pressure and cfm capacity for a small reasonably light compressor.*
Best video I found to return my PC C2002 to normal operation!
Mine had leaks from drain and the hose from manifold to pressure switch so would never reach 150PSI to shut off. I thought it was the pressure switch until I watched this video and read ALL the Comments. The Pressure Regulator also had stopped working.
Here’s what worked for me:
1. Replaced the knurled drain since the rubber o-ring had disintegrated with an all metal 1/4” NPT T-valve from Ace HW.
2. Removed the Pressure Regulator knob and valve as shown in the video and cleaned it with WD-40 & 0000 steel wool. The valve was stuck all the way in high pressure position. Cean the valve piston very well and make sure it moves. I used a very light coat of plumbers grease on the piston and o-ring. Replaced the parts as in the video.
3. I tightened the factory hose clamp as shown in the video. Use a spray bottle with a cleaner that will show bubbles to check for leaks.
I tested the compressor and it builds pressure to 150 and kicks on when the Tank pressure hits 120. I verified the Regulator pressure is fully adjustable.
This video was very helpful as I only replaced the drain valve in this repair. Total cost: $7. $4.99 for the valve and $1.99 for pipe thread compound, all at Ace HW.
Thanks for posting this video. I was able to fix mine using this as reference. I didn't have to take the knob in the front off. I only removed the plastic cover and the rear assembly using a wrench.
Found that the spring was compressed and stuck. A little WD40 and some twist and tugging got it free and I just put it back in and now the compressor works as it should. Took only a few minutes. Cheers!
Thank you! Zero cost fix...Cleaned the valve on the back side as you suggested and it worked. No more leaks.
Thanks. Mine is a Porter-Cable C2005 and had the same problem of a stuck brass piston. The outside appearance of mine is slightly different, but the regulator seemed to be exactly the same as yours. I cleaned up the brass piston and attached spring with a wire brush and fine sandpaper, then a drop of oil. While I was at it, I pulled out the black rubber piston/diaphragm on the front side, lightly fine-sanded the cylinder it moves in, and sprayed with silicone. Reassembled, and all is good.
I've had this compressor for about 18 years, and lately it's been cycling on and off several times a day. Needed this repair for a while. . . I like your intro music, too.
I bought this same compressor at a pawnshop today. They wanted $80 for it but the compressor never shut off. I was thinking I either had to buy the manifold or the pressure switch. The guy at the pawnshop thought it was the manifold and said I could buy one for $40 so I told him I would buy it for $40 and he agreed. I've been searching for about 30 minutes when I found your video. My piston and spring were seized up just like yours. A little brushing and oil and it's good as new. I saved $25 bucks on the regulator kit and I have a great little compressor for $40 bucks. Thanks a bunch.
Glad to help!
Ordered the kit about a month ago and replaced the broken plastic valve. Works like new, thanks again👍
I brought the parts from Amazon and did the fox simple and now it’s working thanks for the tip and video.
Glad to hear yours works again!
@@OnTheWorkbench thanks good video
Thanks! US Defense Contractor in Iraq and I bought a D51 replacement part and 20mins later its in. Well done!
Big thanks I have modle c2006 type 3 and unable to locate new replacement regulator parts. After watching I had the frozen brass plunger component and was able to disassemble clean and fix. Many thanks I love fixes like this. Good for my wallet and the environment.
This is awesome. Thanks so much for posting this. I had the regulator apart 3 times trying to figure this problem out. Your video led me to the heart of the problem.
It turned out to be the tiny “O” ring on the little bras plunger that slides in the little bread sleeve. It had dried out and wasn’t making good contact. When I went to remove it to inspect it, it just crumbled. Fortunately I had a suitable replacement on hand. After I replaced that tiny “O” ring it regulated great again.
Thanks again!
thanks for the video - very helpful - when I took the 17mm off I pulled apart the valve from the back cap, silicone spray lubed it and made sure the check valve/spring could move freely. I re-installed and the leak is gone.
Side note - when I took the regulator cap off I found a black plastic piece floating around - I discarded it before re-installing and it worked fine.
Cheers!
Thanks for taking apart the corroded part after replacing with the new one. Very helpful.
Thank you, thank you! I was ready to scrap my pancake compressor since a new manifold/regulator was half the price of a new compressor. That little spring loaded valve on mine was gummed up. Cleaned it and applied a little mineral oil and the thing runs better than ever!
My man! This was the fix for me. The spring was totally seized up and the parts around it corroded. I hit it all with some steel wool and now back in business. I just wish I would have found this video before I bought a new pressure switch. I guess I have a spare now in case one breaks, so no big deal.
Thanks!
Just took mine apart cleaned the parts you took out sanded all the parts with 400 grit lightly. Put o- ring lube on the o- rings works great. Thanks for the video!
Very useful info. Took me 17 mm wrench (adjustable will work too), few drops of WD40, fine sandpaper, and 15 minutes tops to fix the leaking regulator. Now it is working as on day one. Saved me at least $25 and time. Make sure that you pull out the round plastic piece and clean it and inside the regulator with WD40 or silicone lube soaked felt. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks! I was pretty close but after watching your video, I got it apart. I cleaned up the current valve/spring assembly, and regreased. Works perfect.
Thanks a bunch!! I was about to trash my exact model, but decided to see if a fine good citizen made a video about repairing it. And I found you!
Followed your instructions and now I have a perfectly good working tool. Thanks again!!!!
I didn’t have time to order the part so I removed the tiny rubber washer off the aluminum post under the brass fitting. I polished the post (had aluminum rust that was pushing out on the rubber washer). After that I replaced the rubber washer and the brass fitting and spring slid perfectly. Greased everything and put it back together and worked great.
Be sure to open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank when finished with the compressor. It will drain water built up from condensation.
Yes!
Thanks, mine was the exact same thing, been driving me crazy. Took it out, wire brushed it and put a little pneumatic oil on it. Good as new.
Hi thanks for including the sizes of tools required, well done, been looking for em
Thanks! I had to buy the rebuild kit because the plastic part inside was broken. Still much better than buying a new compressor.
Thanks for the video. Bought the kit and installed it. Works like a champ.
Thanks for the postmortem; I'm on my way out to (hopefully) repair mine without waiting for parts!
Thanks! Just what I was looking for and the Torx T10 was a big help couldn't find the right tool to fit!
Thanks, cleaned it up with a little steel wool and added a few drops of oil. worked like new
I re greased and it works great. Thanks for posting.
This is exactly the same problem I am having with mine. Thank you for posting!
Thanks a lot -- I fix my compressor based on your guidance.
after looking at your fix i took the old regulator apart cleaned it put it back together and now it works.
Glad to help!
thanks i used mine today and had to turn it down to 45 psi. the only trouble is when i did it went to zero and stayed there. set back scratching my head and it went back to working. and just before i was done it did it again never did work again. but after your video i cleaned it up and it seems to be working again. but still going to get a kit and keep it for a back up because we all know its going to di it again.
I think The big O ring should be shoved all the way far inside the big Black regulator twister (cap) before the final step to prevent air leakages.
Your video is most helpful thank you
However other failure points on a well used compressor
1.On/off switch failure
2.High pressure safety valve on manifold with pull ring corroded,not sealing
3.Gasket on cylinder head sealing aluminum output line broken-or missing
4.micro cracks in manifold assembly from harsh accidents
Otherwise,you'll get 15 years out of the older ones made in USA
Hello ty for the help finding repair kit help An video . i would like to add if you have that excat confirmation shown in video you may not need big o ring behind black disk if you put it in an then pull black disk back out you will notice it falls in opening in housing at back. an o ring seems to be to big for opening. In diagram there is a whole valve assembly in front of it. Where as I an video maker don't .we have a spring an a black screw on knob. I left o ring out an it works perfectly. I may be wrong but thought I would say something ty again for video
We have two! this is an amazing fix!
Ordered it. Nice to see it done right. Thanks 👍
Thank you for posting, I have the same problem!!! You are a big help, regards.
Thank you for this video! I have a very similar compressor and it's set up almost identical. This really helped
Great explanation I ordered the part
Safe to assume you checked afterwards and it did actually work?
I was taught in aviation especially with electro-mechanical hydraulic actuator to read continuity in the cannon plug pins that way you could tell if you had a bad actuator or if the wiring was bad. Changing a three hundred pound actuator to find out the there is nothing wrong with the actuator. Is it possible to read continuity on a pressure switch like E 108524 two wire two blade switch?
Should the pressure be backed off the spring when not in use to prevent spring from getting permanently compressed? I was thinking this may slow the wear on those parts.
I found one of these. It continues to run and the gages don't go up to build pressure. Is this the repair I need?
Thank you for making this video! Do you know if that large o-ring is something added to the kit. Did you have that o-ring before you purchased the kit? Do you know the purpose of that o-ring? Think I need it? I'm not going to buy the repair kit. I have the exact model No. and mine doesn't have that large o-ring. I got the same problem with the back part corroded and froze up so I'm going to work it loose. Got it soaking in vinegar right now. Thank you again for the video.
Mine didn't have it either. Porter-Cable C2006.
@dougjones5607 thanks for the reply
Best I’ve seeun
I took mine apart, cleaned everything per your instructions, my spring was not seized. Put it together, and it still runs even thou the tank pressure shows 120, and regulator gauge shows approx 60.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
I’m gonna try , I hope 🤞 save money thank you
Saludos cordiales desde Ecuador
Estoy buscando repuestos para reparar el compresor porter cable de 6 galones motor 2.6hp con el del Video.
Quiero repuestos como cilindro, pistón y sello del pistón? Puede ayudarme con link de tiendas para comprar repuestos
GREAT video...!
Well well. I just fix mine and no one of the videos help me. What I did was only with a pair of point players released the valve that is inside and oiled and come back to work the right way. But thanks for ideas and hope someone with same problem see my comment and try too
Bacon or. Sausage with it? I got one of these pos. It's like 10 years old and won't stop running.
Not Torx. 2.5mm Allen
What? You couldn't have used a flash light to show the inside of the regulator?
Would be nice see it’s Fixed You didn’t show us testing yet that’s not good
This compressor is 99 bucks new at lowes, do you know where to find the part for maybe 10 bucks? Else we should just buy another compressor.
Fair point, it makes me think of the razor conundrum, where razor blades cost 75%+ of what a new razor costs.
I had this problem too, what I was told is to not leave air in the tank for extended periods and the spring valve looses it ability to fully engage and you have leaks. It’s best to open the drain plug at the bottom to let all air and condensation out and leave it open until the next time you use it.
My compressor starts an stops within 20seconds
haha, the "knock test"? Never heard of that one. Something tells me that if you have soft spots in your tank you won't have to knock on them to find out...
throw this in trash mines brand new and leaks I'm bringing mine to 12 gauge target range