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How to build a Spridget Gearbox - Part 1 of 2 (Race or Street)
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- This is Part 1 of a 2 part series on how to assemble a Spridget Ribcase Gearbox. It will give you all the details you need to properly assembly the rotating assembly (the mains shaft and gear set) that goes inside the gearbox. I’ll show you the tools I use, as well as the detailed methods to handle this tricky assembly. Chapters are below so you can fast forward to any part of the assembly process to get you unstuck if you’re having an problem. Look for Part 2 that will cover all the details you need to install this rotating assembly in the case and complete a fully assembled functioning gearbox. Cheers…and I hope this video helped you!
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:20 Rotating Assembly overview
03:50 Step 1 - Installing 2nd Gear on the main shaft and the Tools you will need
15:08 Step 2 - Installing 3rd Gear on the main shaft
20:00 Step 3- The Synchronizer Hubs - Overview
20:44 Step 3A - 3rd/4th Gear Synchronizer Hub Assembly
28:25 Step 3B - 1st/2nd Gear Synchronizer Hub Assembly
35:20 Step 4 - Completing the Rotating Assembly
37:08 - What’s next
Thanks for Watching….and don’t forget to subscribe!
So very clear. Thank you!!
Excellent video and instructions. I am about to do this for the first time during winter. Easy to understand and follow. I truly appreciate the explanations. Thank you.
Excellent video, the best on youtube.
Thanks!
I really enjoyed watching your video, very thorough, and it helped me on my journey
Nice library.
Really excellent video, top effort 🤔 I’ll be sharing this with the Morris Minor and MASC groups 👍
Thanks! I appreciate the support…
Thank you for this very excellent and informative video, Steve! Maybe you cover it in the Part II video, but I've always wondered how you determine when a gear or synchro hub are too worn to use - I'm speaking specifically about the pointed gear that meshes with the synchro ring.
You often hear a vehicle seller say, "oh, it's just a $15 synchro" (never mind the R & R labor...). It's been my experience that when the synchro has failed, typically the gear and synchro hub are also worn to where I feel they should be replaced. Still, I would like to know the fine line of accept or reject on those parts.
Thanks again for your excellent video and all of the time you put into it!
My biggest fear has been tearing apart ANY transmission. But with your excellent camera work and the clear precise manor of your voice (Reminds me of Mr Rogers, especially with the background smooth jazz :) ) I feel like I can tackle this. Especially since my bugeye smooth case keeps popping out of second gear when downshifting. But I don't think you can get parts for those. But I have a spare ribcage I can inspect. Great video! Thanks so much.
Thanks for your kind comments and I’m so glad that maybe I can help just one fellow enthusiast…or encourage someone to just give it a go…because you never know what you might learn…
I have a solution for your 2nd gear problem coming up in Part 2. Sometimes it’s just a worn out synchro , and those are available. Sometimes it’s a worn shifter fork, sometimes you need a little washer on the shift rod…
More coming…and thanks again…
@@allthingsvintageracing8656 oh can't wait
Excellent. I have at least a dozen transmissions from two separate parts hoards, I need to give this a try! Really demystified it.
Have you published an engine rebuild video of the same type? Or a block in one video and a head in another?
Excellent video! Perfect mix of detail, verbal descriptions, fast motion, camera angles, and mentions of tips. I recently rebuilt a smooth case transmission for my street Bugeye, but have a ribbed case transmission with straight cut gears to rebuild. This video gives me inspiration to get at it!
Thanks for your kind words!
Best video yet Steve, please keep them coming! There’s plenty of info out there on the A-series motor but relatively little on these boxes. And yes, a disassembly video would be great. Take your time and go slow and detailed!
Thanks!
Did I miss where you showed folks how to get it apart? Especially those two pins on 2nd gear under the lock plate?
No, you didn’t miss that, as this video is about assembly. And yes, that’s a bit tricky to take 2nd gear apart. I’ll need to make a video on taking 2nd and 3rd gear off the main shaft…. Which I will do…
Thanks…your feedback helps…
Really enjoyed and appreciated how you covered all the steps I’m a complete newbie and I believe I could follow this.
Are you going to do this with a 1275 sprite engine, I believe would be hugely popular, I know I would appreciate it
Thanks! Yes.. 1275’s are in the works…
@@allthingsvintageracing8656 Fantastic can’t wait to see it, I’ll promote this to my local car club 👍
@@allthingsvintageracing8656 when is part 2 being released please
@@philsyratt7198 within the next week. I’ve just about got all the editing done….
Any tips for removing the main motion shaft? Mine won’t budge. I’ve pulled out the selector rods and forks, lay shaft and reverse shaft, and the main shaft circlip. Is it suppose to tap out now or is there something else retaining it?
Hi Ethan,
There is a circlip on the bearing on the first motion shaft on the bell-housing side. Once you have the main shaft and all it’s gears removed from the back of the case, I generally just remove the circlip from that first motion shaft bearing and the first motion shaft and it’s bearing fall into the case. It it’s tight, a little tap with a piece of wood and a mallet on the spigot end of the first motion shaft should pop it out.
Cheers….Steve
@@allthingsvintageracing8656 thanks Steve. I ended up taking an air hammer to the the inside of the bearing housing to ram it out. It seems the bearing housing was just an extremely tight fit into the bellhousing of my box