Your two-part video here on the ribcase gearbox rebuild is absolutely terrific! Just what I needed, and what a huge time saver. Thank you so very much for your painstaking attention to detail, both in your descriptions and for the clarity in the video detail.
OMG, this is the video I've been looking for. Thank you! As a fellow racer I can't express how much more confident I am to build up a spare box. Thank you again
OMG your videos are amazing! I have two of these ribcase gearboxes I need to rebuild and after watching your videos I feel much more confident. New Subscriber. Thank you.
First let me say that your video is fantastic! Very helpful in learning the details of overhauling these gearboxes. I sourced a brass washer as you suggested for the 1-2 shift rail and when I went to fit it, it interfered with the casting adjacent to 3-4 shift rail hole, so I could not get the washer to sit flat against the case and therefore, even after grinding the washer, it would prevent the fork from coming back to its proper position. One could grind the casting to make it flat, but I chose to leave the washer out. Just FYI.
Steve I have found it is easier to stand the trans housing up on the flyhousing end while fitting the correct thrust washers. You don’t have to wrestle with the small rod
Hi Steve, I have been following your page here, it is a great help, thank you very much! I have assembled the mainshaft and installed the output bearing plate, but: 1) The first gear assembly moves longitudinally a bit on the output shaft 2) I can slide 1st gear into engagement fine, but it will not slide back into 2nd gear without me applying pressure with a screwdriver. I am afraid to continue the assembly at this stage as I am certain something is wrong. I emailed a photo and a link to a 15 second video of what I am seeing to All Things Vintage Racing and hopefully you may be able to tell me what I have done wrong. Thank you again so very much for your help! Your videos are terrific!
Thanks so much for taking the time to share this! Can you help me? I rebuilt a ribcase several years ago - it’s perfect except the lockout detent for reverse on the remote control prevents me from selecting reverse - I’ve had to disable it. I’ve tried reducing spring pressure but it’s either locked out or not protecting from accidental reverse selection. Do you have any advice please? Cheers Todd
An excellent pair of videos on a ribbed case gearbox build, I really appreciate the work it must have taken to produce them 👍 A couple of Q’s if I may; I noticed the front oil seal appeared off centre… Do the front and rear gaskets figure when shimming, or is that unnecessary? These videos definitely boost confidence in having a go at repairing one. Top effort 🖖
Thanks for the kind words…and you are absolutely correct about compensating for the gasket thickness…I should have covered that in the video…I always add an extra 2 thousandth shim to both ends…just to ensure everything is nice and snug and tight…and I think I mention that in the video at some point… Thanks again…this is what these videos are all about…communication…so I’ll add a something to the description on that.. Cheers…and thanks for watching!
Great video set. About to do mine for my Austin A35. Q: What clutch set do you like? Can't quite see the part number on your disc. *Is there an accounting for the gasket thickness when determining the shim thicknesses?
Sorry to bother you yet again, but I have a question that I believe only your expertise could answer. When I disassembled my gearbox, my box did not have the interlock plunger parts (what you show at 40:25 in the video). It only had a short bolt covering the hole. In your video you spent considerable time installing and discussing them. I assembled my gearbox without them, and started looking for the parts here (Moss and others do not stock them). I eventually was able to locate them, however, I cannot install them as they just bind on the shaft and the interlock plunger will not fully seat. I also cannot discern any indent in the shaft where the ball would engage. Am I missing something here or perhaps there are different versions of the gearbox? After I assembled everything and tested it, it seemed to shift fine and work normally even without this interlock plunger. I am afraid of installing the gearbox back in the car (my '56 Lotus Eleven) if I must have the interlock as it is a great deal of work to remove gearbox from this particular car, and I have almost zero access to the gearbox once it is installed. Any wisdom, insights or recommendations you may have would be greatly appreciated. I also sent you an email with the parts diagram if that will help. Thank you again for your wonderful videos. I do not think I could have rebuilt it without your videos and your help.
Yes. Only the 1st/2nd rod. It prevents over shifting and getting stuck in 2nd gear…or in between 1st and 2nd … which is an inherent problem in the original design.
Thanks. I believe you can find brass washers from McMaster Carr. I have not tried nylon washers…but I suspect they would work…Other than being a bit soft.
Your two-part video here on the ribcase gearbox rebuild is absolutely terrific! Just what I needed, and what a huge time saver. Thank you so very much for your painstaking attention to detail, both in your descriptions and for the clarity in the video detail.
I am in the process of rebuilding my 1275 transmission. This is one of the best videos I have seen. Very well explained. Thank you.
Thank you for an amazing detailed 2 videos. Very helpful.
OMG, this is the video I've been looking for. Thank you! As a fellow racer I can't express how much more confident I am to build up a spare box. Thank you again
You’re quite welcome…😎
Wow, just wow! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise! An awesome video!
OMG your videos are amazing! I have two of these ribcase gearboxes I need to rebuild and after watching your videos I feel much more confident. New Subscriber. Thank you.
i cannot thank you enough. just brilliant
You’re quite welcome…
Awesome, keep it coming! Looking forward to a tear down video.
Me too....😀
First let me say that your video is fantastic! Very helpful in learning the details of overhauling these gearboxes. I sourced a brass washer as you suggested for the 1-2 shift rail and when I went to fit it, it interfered with the casting adjacent to 3-4 shift rail hole, so I could not get the washer to sit flat against the case and therefore, even after grinding the washer, it would prevent the fork from coming back to its proper position. One could grind the casting to make it flat, but I chose to leave the washer out. Just FYI.
I can do it; but after radiation therapy, handling small parts is difficult for me. Your videos will guide me. Thanks
Steve I have found it is easier to stand the trans housing up on the flyhousing end while fitting the correct thrust washers.
You don’t have to wrestle with the small rod
Hi Steve,
I have been following your page here, it is a great help, thank you very much!
I have assembled the mainshaft and installed the output bearing plate, but:
1) The first gear assembly moves longitudinally a bit on the output shaft
2) I can slide 1st gear into engagement fine, but it will not slide back into 2nd gear without me applying pressure with a screwdriver.
I am afraid to continue the assembly at this stage as I am certain something is wrong.
I emailed a photo and a link to a 15 second video of what I am seeing to All Things Vintage Racing and hopefully you may be able to tell me what I have done wrong.
Thank you again so very much for your help! Your videos are terrific!
Thanks! I got your email. I’m out of town, will be back tomorrow and send you a response. Cheers!
Thank you!
Great follow-up to video part 1. Love the detail you put into your videos.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share this!
Can you help me? I rebuilt a ribcase several years ago - it’s perfect except the lockout detent for reverse on the remote control prevents me from selecting reverse - I’ve had to disable it. I’ve tried reducing spring pressure but it’s either locked out or not protecting from accidental reverse selection. Do you have any advice please? Cheers Todd
An excellent pair of videos on a ribbed case gearbox build, I really appreciate the work it must have taken to produce them 👍
A couple of Q’s if I may; I noticed the front oil seal appeared off centre… Do the front and rear gaskets figure when shimming, or is that unnecessary?
These videos definitely boost confidence in having a go at repairing one. Top effort 🖖
Thanks for the kind words…and you are absolutely correct about compensating for the gasket thickness…I should have covered that in the video…I always add an extra 2 thousandth shim to both ends…just to ensure everything is nice and snug and tight…and I think I mention that in the video at some point…
Thanks again…this is what these videos are all about…communication…so I’ll add a something to the description on that..
Cheers…and thanks for watching!
Very informative series, well done. Do you know if the MGB gearbox is the same? I am about to tackle that job.
Very similar…most of the same things will apply…
@@allthingsvintageracing8656Thanks and thank you for providing such a detailed look into the gearbox. Cheers!
Great video set. About to do mine for my Austin A35. Q: What clutch set do you like? Can't quite see the part number on your disc. *Is there an accounting for the gasket thickness when determining the shim thicknesses?
Sorry to bother you yet again, but I have a question that I believe only your expertise could answer.
When I disassembled my gearbox, my box did not have the interlock plunger parts (what you show at 40:25 in the video). It only had a short bolt covering the hole. In your video you spent considerable time installing and discussing them.
I assembled my gearbox without them, and started looking for the parts here (Moss and others do not stock them). I eventually was able to locate them, however, I cannot install them as they just bind on the shaft and the interlock plunger will not fully seat. I also cannot discern any indent in the shaft where the ball would engage.
Am I missing something here or perhaps there are different versions of the gearbox? After I assembled everything and tested it, it seemed to shift fine and work normally even without this interlock plunger.
I am afraid of installing the gearbox back in the car (my '56 Lotus Eleven) if I must have the interlock as it is a great deal of work to remove gearbox from this particular car, and I have almost zero access to the gearbox once it is installed.
Any wisdom, insights or recommendations you may have would be greatly appreciated. I also sent you an email with the parts diagram if that will help.
Thank you again for your wonderful videos. I do not think I could have rebuilt it without your videos and your help.
For the trick brass washer on the selector rod, do you only do this for the 1st/2nd selector rod? Thank you again for your terrific video!
Yes. Only the 1st/2nd rod. It prevents over shifting and getting stuck in 2nd gear…or in between 1st and 2nd … which is an inherent problem in the original design.
@@allthingsvintageracing8656 Thank you!
Great Video, saved my but on my rebuild. Were do you source the 2mm washers from? having a hard time locating them. Have you tried Nylon spacers?
Thanks. I believe you can find brass washers from McMaster Carr. I have not tried nylon washers…but I suspect they would work…Other than being a bit soft.
Is this the 2mm washer from McMaster Carr ?: General Purpose Brass Washer for M2 Screw Size, 2.200 mm ID, 4.500 mm OD part# 98691A111
I believe this should be a good option, might need to be reamed a bit on the ID, but will fit snug on the 7/16" shaft and averages 2mm thick.
what are the OD and ID of the .080 waher?
Do you take customer transmissions for refresh?
@@JoseMartinez-k5u unfortunately, not at this time.
@@JoseMartinez-k5u there are some places that do, though.
@@JoseMartinez-k5u the shipping is also problematic and expensive.
i am refreshing my smooth case box. do i need that brass washer? if so, where can i get it?
@@JoseMartinez-k5u I would recommend it. Any hardware store should have them. Amazon too.