Ford C6 Teardown and Inspection (Full-length Version)
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- Опубліковано 1 січ 2024
- I tear down and inspect a 4x4 C6 out of a 1986 Bronco where I provide a brief history on the C6, cover points of inspection, perform a case air check and front end play measurement as well as many other aspects of this transmission.
Table of Contents: - Авто та транспорт
This guy is on point with his stuff. Made me feel like I could jump right in and rebuild mine!!!
Thanks, Daniel - appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for these videos! I’m about to rebuild the C6 in my 69 F100 and it’s my first trans rebuild…..Your detail and explanations help a lot.
You're welcome, JB and thank you for watching! check out my C6 reassembly video series if you haven't already as I go through step by step on reassembly. I also have valve body disassembly/reassembly videos as well and will be posting some topic-specific videos on the C6 starting tomorrow that will be helpful for you as well.
Only video I found actually tearing down the small block version. Very good video.
Thank you for watching and the kind words, fckyoutube!
Just started the tear down of my flooded C6 in my 78 F-150. This is my first time doing lots of things, especially a trans rebuild. Thank you for these videos, they are clear, concise, you obviously know what you're talking about and you explain things so they're understood and not just heard. Because of these videos i am more confident than ever that i can tackle this
Thank you for the kind words, Devin! I appreciate the feedback and glad my vids will help you in your rebuild. Feel free to ask questions as you go...One thing I'll recommend is to purchase a thrust washer kit...The kit contains all new thrust washers to replace your pre-existing ones and also comes with a few different thicknesses of selective pump stator washer, which you may need if your case travel is outside of the .008-.044 range.
I have another C6 video dedicated to measuring and adjusting case travel where I go into detail about this aspect of the process, in case you haven't seen it yet: ua-cam.com/video/CQrpw_ggL_8/v-deo.html
@@nickstransmissions thank you! My transmission is pretty messed up as it was a flood truck, so I'm probably in for some hard parts. But I will definitely do my best to make sure that end play is in a good range👍
You're welcome, man...Please sub if you haven't already as I'll be publishing more C6 videos over the next week, this way you'll be notified once they're available.
thanks for posting the full length version Nick!
You bet, Kevin!
Fantastic description of the full breakdown process. Just used this video as a reference while tearing into my c6. Time for rebuild!
Thanks for watching, STKshift - glad it was able to help you!
Though I finished mine with your previous videos, this was still really interesting to watch. Although the car hasn't finished yet, I was able to drive it a few feet forward and back no problem, and all the gear selections seemed to work correctly as well, so that's promising. Your video's and help were essential.
Thanks for watching, John! Glad my videos helped you navigate through your C6 rebuild.
@@nickstransmissions Meanwhile I've driven around 200 miles since the rebuild and everything works perfectly. No leaks, nothing. I do notice though when I check the fluid that it's already not as vibrant as it was fresh in the can. It's still pink-ish, but more muted in color. Is it normal for ATF to lose some of its color that quickly? If I could describe it in HEX colors, it went from #ffa2a2 to #edc4b9. It still smells good.
I don't remember the year, but the older C6 had an exhaust ball in the rear clutch piston that always faced the pan when installed correctly. The newer models had the exhaust in valve body. Somewhere in the mid seventies they switched from F fluid to Dexron/ Mercon fluid.. The C 6 was the worst trans for starting in 2nd gear. That governor, even if you breathed on it wrong would stick and start in 2nd gear. If you stopped and backed up a few inches, it would flush out the governor, then it would start in 1st. I learned later that if you put a 350 valve body check ball inside the governor valve, it would help with the 2nd gear starts.
Hi Peter, you're correct...Late 1976 was the change year to the low reverse hydraulic circuit where they updated the VB, gaskets and spacer plate to serve as exhaust/vent and eliminated the bleeder capsule in the low reverse piston. There was a whole slew of changes made to the C6 during that mid-lifecycle update that impacted nearly every area of the transmission...Folks working on a model year 1976 need to pay special attention to the date codes and parts they're working with in the event hard parts have to be replaced.
Great tip re the quarter-inch check ball to prevent governor sticking, thank you for sharing!
Good video tnx
Thank you for watching, Alberto!
Thanks for the videos, very informative and thorough. I have a question about my ailing transmission. I have a C6 in a 77 Ford F-250 with a 460. The truck has been sitting for about a year, it started right up and shifted into reverse. I backed out of my garage, stopped, moved the shifter into drive, and nothing happened. The tranny spun free as if it was in neutral. The fluid was full, there are no leaks, the vacuum line and kick down lever are fine. I shut the engine off, waited about 10 minutes and started it up again. I shifted it into drive and now it worked. I have first gear until I stop and shift it again into reverse, then nothing again. This behavior repeats. It works after sitting for awhile, but only for the first gear I shift it into, then nothing. I plan on rebuilding the tranny and I have a new engine ready to install. I don't want to drive it and cause more damage to the transmission. Any idea what I might find wrong with it?
Hi Michael, thank you for the kind words and view. I'd suspect the forward drum's lip seals are likely very worn and perhaps a bit hardened...No big deal if you're going to be going back through the unit, all those lip seals get replaced with new ones in your overhaul kit.
K code apply levers are a stock ford part E0TZ-7330-B. I think the ratio is 1.575, but I'm not positive.
Thanks, man - yea, that one was a stumper insofar as exactly where that lever comes from.
Hey Man, the sun shell I got on eBay was cut too short and it only comes haveway to the lugs of the 3rd/reverse drum… is this still usable?
Hi Jon, send it back if it's defective. Never knowingly install a bad part. Start an "item not a described" case if the seller wont voluntarily return/exchange it.
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Thank you for watching, Captainschannel!
@nickstransmissions My son bought a 88 Ford F-150 and the timing was off so we got that fixed. After that I needed to take it to get a new exhaust put on it, but when I stated it and put it in gear it started making a screeching sound, so of course I turned it off. I restarted it while he was there with me, and I watched while he put it in gear and it started smoking and then made a loud pop. I have never attempted to work on a trans but after watching your video's I decided to jump right in. I was wanting to know if I could send you a few pictures to see what your thoughts are on my next steps since I have it torn apart now. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi Daniel, film a short youtube video, publish it and reply back with the sharable link so I can take a look.
@nickstransmission
ua-cam.com/video/ssO6g2iCYr4/v-deo.htmlsi=vrKZTkTm6ANQ8IjC
@@nickstransmissions I have tried to post this several times and it keeps getting taken down. I hope this one stays up. ua-cam.com/video/ssO6g2iCYr4/v-deo.html
GM Daniel, I watched the video...The scratch marks inside the case are no big deal...The drums aren't out of balance but I cannot tell of those brownish stains are heat related or due to water contamination (they sort of resemble rust spots) as you were moving the camera way too fast over those areas. When filming, it's best to put the camera on a tripod, angle it so it faces down onto the bench then slowly display the parts you're wanting to film so that viewers can get a good look at everything.
If they are heat related, especially the areas on the forward drum and you can see heat soaking on a good majority of the surface, I'd prob replace the forward drum...The direct drum's band surface can be sanded down with 400 grit sand paper sheets. Just put the drum on a towel and work the sheet back and forth along the surface until you de-glaze it...Then take a small straight edge with a flashlight and place the straight edge across the band surface. Then shine the flashlight on the opposite side - determine if you can see light poking through underneath the straight edge. If you can, the drum surface is warped and would need to be turned (or replaced with a non-warped drum).
You also need to look at the crescent on the pump body - check to make sure it's not worn or damaged in any way...Then check the stator and pump body working surfaces for scoring or anything else unusual. Replace your flat steels with a new steel module along with your frictions, paper/rubber/gaskets, etc, bushings, vacuum modulator...Purchase the E4OD low roller clutch assembly and install that in place of the C6 roller assembly, which is located in the low-reverse clutch hub.
Hope this helps!
@@nickstransmissions in your video you stated that you could put the E40D clutches in to beef up your transmission. Do you mind throwing me a link for those parts so that I can get them?
Thank You, Sir ! Have 4R100 To Bring You ! Your Videos Help To Learn How Work & Take Care Of ...,
I Drive Hard From New 1999 F350 7.3 All UP //// On # 3 rd 4R100 One The Last Builder, Won't Sell Or Service The 4R100 Any More That Should Tell You WHO Build IT ...$$$ DiD Last The Longest ...Save My $$$ For Your Worked Unit I Have A Reman In The Truck Now Can't Live Much Longer Just Can Tell, The Set Up Is. SO Lose 3 sec To FloTo Next Gear Makes Me LOL From What It WAS...
Again, Thank You ! Nick
Thanks, man!
International idi diesels did not have the same bell pattern as the 385 series engines.
The diesels had a semi-circle cut out at the bottom of the bell housing...If i didnt specify that in the vid, it's a miss on my part.
@@nickstransmissions The bolt pattern is diffrent
Ok, thanks...I may just remove that section from the vid and clear / remove this comment so viewers aren't confused...Thanks, Kevin.
To much talking
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.. first transmission i ever rebuilt was a 1990 Ford C6 from an E350 Club Wagon with 5.8 .. Transtar Complete Kit ...blue plate clutches, kolene Steels, & a New Street/Strip Cheetah Valve Body not in the kit .. 🧰👨🔧💯
Sounds like a sweet build, William! Thank you for watching!
K lever is a late model factory lever, 1.575:1 ratio.
Thank you for the info, Greg. Appreciate it.