Ive watch hundreds of art videos and I gotta say, you not only are exceptionally knowledgeable of all things fine art, you also are one of the few that can explain and demonstrate it clearly. I get excited if a technique I am looking for comes up with your name!
This was so helpful. I've never been able to find a video that adequately explained the techniques for glazing. Thank you for this great video! PS- I will try to email you soon and show you the things I've been working on. Stay tuned!
Thank so much for the nice comment! I'm so glad it helped you!! I started to worry maybe I didn't explain it well enough so it's good to know I did. :)
I find your videos so helpful in a minefield of oil painting. Thank you sharing your knowledge and explaining in such a way that in understandable...love your videos 😍❤👍👍
As a young artist that started painting with oils about two weeks ago, I somehow found your channel and it's been a great help!! Although I just started, I'm a fast learner and you've helped me practically zoom through my novice stage. You're incredibly helpful.
Your videos are awesome. You explain those little details that others don't want to talk about. Most people out there wants to boast off their results or virtuoso skills. You are a real teacher! God Bless You
You have done so many wonderful demos that I have downloaded them and saved them in a folder on my PC called "Art School". I refer to them often, thanks so much for providing them, they have helped me really take my painting to the next level. Cheers and Much Love from New Mexico USA!
Just found this video and (like others have pointed out here) your explaining and way of demonstrating was the best I have found in my internet search. I subscribed & liked immediately. Looking forward to learning more from you.
Could you show some paintings with multiple layers of glazes in a layer by layer process in the future? Just started to use this method. Have used most suggestions you've shown, and all have been very helpful. You've made oils less intimidating for me. Thanks
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad my videos have helped you with your painting. :) I don't work in the method you mentioned with the multiple layers, so I don't have any examples to show, but I might be able to put together a few samples from other sources. I will look into it! :)
Walcott Fine Art You could do very simple examples in a “glazing” series. Glazing 102: Transparent Color Chart’s & Opaque “Glazing” Scumble Chart’s. Here you can prep a very simple (3 to 4 pigment plus a value range of neutral grey) chart’s and explain How & Why one should do this with all of their pigments. One for transparent pigments alone, one for opaque “glaze” Scumble‘ s over transparent, one for transparent over opaque, and a sample of experimental combo’s that one might want to do before putting their idea to the actual painting like making a color mix chart for a specific painting. Glazing 103: The Grisaille and Glaze Layers. Here you can make a simple Geometric Cube or other shape (or even a pear or apple) series on 1 canvas in it’s various stages of glaze layers that show’s the effectiveness of each layer. Glazing 104: Glazing and The Thin “Glaze” Scumble over “Standard” Painting’s. Here you could take a painted Landscape or other subject, show how one could change the overall temperature or mood with a glaze. On another one you can show how to create an extra depth and richness to water, etc., and on another (or the same) you could demonstrate an opaque glaze-like Scumble effect such as for smoke, haze, fog, or additional underlying texture effect for an upcoming transparent glaze layer. Remember your great lesson on the opaque and the transparent looking grapes? You could do a side by side comparison with the glaze technique’s. No matter what you decide to do (or not) we really appreciate your lessons even if they are not used by you in your paintings. You really do help us and make it interesting and fun!
It would be great if we could get a video with a work you’ve made, being glazed. To show like real-world “before and after” and maybe a few different ways it can be used. Like maybe to soften some things, or maybe to firm up a section of work? Or maybe taking the cool tone out of an area etc.
Jason, thank you so much for this video and all of the others I have watched. Its of very helpful tips and information throughout and you've inspired me to try new things. Thank you very much.
I want to glaze, I guess. It’s a lake- browns with trees reflected, going into a clear area where rocks show through. I have it done, and dry. So far it looks nice. Would glazing like this ad shine to the lake? It looks slightly reflective, but would like a little more shine, if possible. That’s to keep it “reflective-water like” which would be distinguished before I “oil over” and then later varnish the whole thing. I know to dry between layers. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching! Yes, glaze will add gloss to the area you are painting because of the extra medium in the layer. If you only varnish once everything is dry, then that difference will be maintained. Oiling out feeds the drier areas and evens everything out much more. Great question! :)
Thanks for watching! You can use other dark colors instead of black, like Burnt Umber, for example. The traditional old masters used a color called Verdaccio, which was like a green gray. :)
if you use liquin on the first layer, do you still employ fat over lean principle for subsequent layers?Or is the principle not used given the thinness of the layers . Thank you.
Again Jason, a great job. I like to use glazing for some of the fall colors in my paintings. Quick question. Have you a video on how you light your canvas when painting at night? Thanks again my friend.
In fact I just posted a video on studio lighting a few days ago! I keep the window in my studio covered so that the controlled lighting is the same for both day and night. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Jason very helpful as usual. I honestly think this is probably the best video about glazing I've seen on youtube. I have only one doubt though. I know liquin is good for glazing (and the fine detail version would be even better at that I suppose) but I've read pretty much everywhere you are not supposed to add too much of it to your paint (w&n says no more than 20% of total volume if I'm not mistaken). Is that enough to achieve a very subtle and transparent layer of colour? I doubt that even with the most transparent pigments. Do you think adding more liquin to the paint would cause problems? I see no reasons why it would, since some people use liquin even as a varnish with no problems (although it's not removable).
Thanks for the comment! To be honest, I am not sure about the 20% Liquin issue. I do know a lot of artists do use it to glaze, which would require you to use more than that. You can always go the route of using a traditional medium, which I prefer, but that's not always an option for everyone. The 20% might work if you were using a very transaprent color. You could also add in more linseed oil to make up the difference.
Thanks Jason. Yeah that's exactly what I thought. I don't really understand why adding more than 20% or so would be a problem. A more traditional medium would be "safer" for sure, but the shorter drying time with liquin is a big advantage. I'm going to experiment a bit, since I've never tried liquin for glazing.
Matur Heilans the real reason not to use more than 20% is to avoid to much dilution of a chromatic (especially opaque) pigment when you are trying to stretch out your expensive paint or make a thicker paint more creamy. For everyone else: Do not add a Drying Medium to any batch of paint that you don’t plan on using up in that painting session. Don’t put out to much medium either. You should not try to put unused “liquin” back in the jar since it has began it’s drying process while sitting in the open air.
Another great instructive video thanks . One question when doing layers is there a time limit between letting layers dry , can they be done to late and have dried to much . Hope that makes sense 😁
Thanks for watching! That is a great question! As far as I know, no, there is no time limit between layers. As long as the one underneath is dry then you can proceed to the next. I can't think of any reason why waiting an extra long time would make any difference. The only thing you'd want to be sure of is to remove any surface dust/dirt etc.
Susan Cook You can apply the next layer’s as soon as the previous layer is “dry” to the touch. You can actually avoid the “fat over lean” rule when using liquin type products. Liquin is designed to create a very flexible but strong layer that does not crack. If you have a painting that has been drying for a very long time and you don’t know what the “fat/lean” ratio’s were then you could run into problems with the traditional mediums since the lower layers will be very “thirsty”. With Liquin products this is not an issue however, if you go with traditional it should be as fatty as you can make it and lie the painting flat to avoid runs and wrinkles and using Stand Oil would be best.
Hi, awesome video! If I paint a landscape, can I use any tranparent paint for glazing? Or, for tree, I have to use a green paint? Or I can use blue? Can I use a transparent paint on the whole canvas when I do Glazing?
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can use glazing for any subject where you need it. Typically glazing is used for certain areas, but there is no reason technically you couldn't put it on the whole canvas. Try experimenting and see how you can get it to work for trees and other landscape elements.
Good video! What I don't understand is - if the top layer must dry slower than the lower layer, - and Liquin dies in 24 hours, - how come you don't get cracks?
I made the assumption that one is using the same glazing medium through out, in this case Liquin. There are certain circumstances where you might need to allow a layer to dry thoroughly for severla months before glazing though. Thanks for watching!
I was pleasantly surprised when I found this demo because you do talk about glazing quite a bit in the color tutorials so I was becoming curious how to go about this. I was wondering what your opinion was as to how long to wait before glazing and then between glazing with traditional mediums? One person says to wait a least a year for the original to dry, another says using fast drying top coats is a crack risk. I tend to value your opinions over others because you appear to speak from personal experience and a working knowledge rather than from a largely theoretical stand point. I also saw an "old timer" in a forum say that, "lean over lean and fat over fat do not violate the fat over lean rule." Does this seem like a sound observation? A quick afterthought: Is glazing with acrylics as effective and manageable as with oils?
Thanks for watching and great question! As far as I have always heard, you can glaze as soon as the layer underneath is dry enough to do so without disturbing it. As long as fat over lean is followed you shouldn't get cracking. "Fat over lean" really means the same or more, so I would say your "old timer" is more or less correct. Glazing is really best with oils...acrylics can be glazed for sure, but it just doesn't have the same luminosity and evenness that oils would have.
Great video like always! I have one question i you have time! I would like to try out glazing with liquin over one painting i finish already that i paint with lenseed oil and sansador like mediums. Can i do that? Will that crack once?
According to what I understand it should be OK, but one thing you can do is mix a little plain linseed oil into the Liquin and then use that as your glazing medium just to be sure. Thanks for watching! :)
Thanks for a great question! Although the technical answer is "yes", if you are going to do more than one layer of glazing it's probably best to go with a medium. Mediums contain some thinner so you can increase the oil in the layers as you go. Plus, if you get too much oil in a layer it can wrinkle as it dries.
Yes you can! Although traditionally for glazing that 3-part medium would use stand oil rather than regular linseed oil, but either will work. Thanks for watching!
A "thinner" is any material which makes the oil paint more fluid. Once used it typically evaporates away completely, It makes the paint easier to spread. You cannpt glaze with turpentine because it is just a thinner. Pure linseed oil isn't a good glazing medium either. You need a mix of the two for best results. The best glazing medium to use if you are unsure is Galkyd or Liquin. They can be used straight from the bottle. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you very much! So, mixed linseed oil and turpentine would do? It would be great for me, considering that of all possible oil mediums I currently have at my disposal only turpentine and linseed oil...
Hi. I was wondering if different mediums could be used in each layer? For example, first layer paint, next layer linseed glaze, next layer tinted alkyn? I would gather, the alkyn as final top layer always in multi medium layers?
Thanks for watching! That is actually a good question I had never thought of before. I guess I would say I can't think of a really good reason to do that. It seems like it would add a lot of complexity to the paint layers which could be a bad thing? I would stick with one medium, and maybe just add a tiny bit of either oil OR alkyd to the successive layers, but not both. Hope that helps!
Thanks for your input. Truthfully, I am not adept at using oils. I work with watercolors and was thinking about using oils in a way to create a luminous effect with multiple layers, like layerying transparencies. I haven't viewed your video on mediums yet. And will do so before asking silly questions. Thank you for all your efforts... your videos are very informative and help demystify the oil painting process :-)
Thanks for watching! You can glaze with whatever colors you need to! :) Using the same color would deepen it and make a rich tone, while using different colors can create optical mixing effects.
In most cases glazing will darken an area as you are adding another layer of color. There are instances where you can glaze with white (which is called scumbling) which will give the area a smoky look. But it doesn't really lighten it the same way as mixing wet color with white does. Scumbling is good for depicting smoke or mist, or very sheer fabric, etc... Great question! Thanks for watching :)
Technically yes, but it can take a long time to dry and might wrinkle if there is too much oil. It's best to use a glazing medium. Thanks for watching!
Peter Angel in the fat over lean rule, you should on purposely add more oil and less thinner. You should keep notes for each painting you are working on so that you know where you are at in this rule.
Ive watch hundreds of art videos and I gotta say, you not only are exceptionally knowledgeable of all things fine art, you also are one of the few that can explain and demonstrate it clearly. I get excited if a technique I am looking for comes up with your name!
Thanks so much for that very nice comment! I'm glad you've been enjoying my videos and finding them useful. :)
First video ever, ever, that would explain so much and so clearly how glazing works. Invaluable. Thank you sir, indeed. A precious lesson.
man I don't know how u do it but u have the gift to make complicated things look simple, thanks, very helpul
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video. :)
finial, a presenter that knows the difference between Glaze and Scumble. and how to apply it. Thank you Mr. Walcott.
This was so helpful. I've never been able to find a video that adequately explained the techniques for glazing. Thank you for this great video! PS- I will try to email you soon and show you the things I've been working on. Stay tuned!
Thank so much for the nice comment! I'm so glad it helped you!! I started to worry maybe I didn't explain it well enough so it's good to know I did. :)
Oh and do send me an email. I'd like to see what you've been working on!
I just got my own glazing medium. Thanks so much for the video.
Was thinking to make sunlight with it
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching :)
I find your videos so helpful in a minefield of oil painting. Thank you sharing your knowledge and explaining in such a way that in understandable...love your videos 😍❤👍👍
I'm so glad you found my videos helpful! Thanks for watching :)
As a young artist that started painting with oils about two weeks ago, I somehow found your channel and it's been a great help!! Although I just started, I'm a fast learner and you've helped me practically zoom through my novice stage. You're incredibly helpful.
Thank you so much for such a nice comment! I'm so glad that my videos have been helpful to you in your learning process. Have fun! :)
Your videos are awesome. You explain those little details that others don't want to talk about. Most people out there wants to boast off their results
or virtuoso skills. You are a real teacher! God Bless You
Thanks so much for watching and for the very nice comment! I'm so glad you have enjoyed my videos. :)
You have done so many wonderful demos that I have downloaded them and saved them in a folder on my PC called "Art School". I refer to them often, thanks so much for providing them, they have helped me really take my painting to the next level. Cheers and Much Love from New Mexico USA!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm so glad my videos have helped you :)
Just found this video and (like others have pointed out here) your explaining and way of demonstrating was the best I have found in my internet search. I subscribed & liked immediately. Looking forward to learning more from you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the nice comment and for watching :)
Great demonstration! Clear explanation. Extremely helpul. Thank you for this, Jason!
Thanks for watching! I'm so glad you enjoyed this tutorial. :)
Thank you Jason. You have explained this so well. I have learnt so much from your wonderful videos.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the nice comment and for watching :)
You have a great channel. May it continue to grow and cultivate likes.
Thank you so much for the nice comment! Glad you enjoy the videos. :)
I really like the way u explain...and can u refer me some books to learn about glazing sir..I don't know to use the glazing method in a correct way..
Love your videos Jason, these are very helpful
I'm so glad my videos have been helpful!! Thanks for watching :)
Great explanation, love your videos
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Also, thank you for stating the medium you used. I really like to know what mediums you use so I can try them myself
Great! If you are just getting familiar with the technique then Liquin is probably the best bet.
Could you show some paintings with multiple layers of glazes in a layer by layer process in the future? Just started to use this method. Have used most suggestions you've shown, and all have been very helpful. You've made oils less intimidating for me. Thanks
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad my videos have helped you with your painting. :) I don't work in the method you mentioned with the multiple layers, so I don't have any examples to show, but I might be able to put together a few samples from other sources. I will look into it! :)
Walcott Fine Art You could do very simple examples in a “glazing” series.
Glazing 102: Transparent Color Chart’s & Opaque “Glazing” Scumble Chart’s.
Here you can prep a very simple (3 to 4 pigment plus a value range of neutral grey) chart’s and explain How & Why one should do this with all of their pigments. One for transparent pigments alone, one for opaque “glaze” Scumble‘ s over transparent, one for transparent over opaque, and a sample of experimental combo’s that one might want to do before putting their idea to the actual painting like making a color mix chart for a specific painting.
Glazing 103: The Grisaille and Glaze Layers.
Here you can make a simple Geometric Cube or other shape (or even a pear or apple) series on 1 canvas in it’s various stages of glaze layers that show’s the effectiveness of each layer.
Glazing 104: Glazing and The Thin “Glaze” Scumble over “Standard” Painting’s.
Here you could take a painted Landscape or other subject, show how one could change the overall temperature or mood with a glaze. On another one you can show how to create an extra depth and richness to water, etc., and on another (or the same) you could demonstrate an opaque glaze-like Scumble effect such as for smoke, haze, fog, or additional underlying texture effect for an upcoming transparent glaze layer.
Remember your great lesson on the opaque and the transparent looking grapes? You could do a side by side comparison with the glaze technique’s.
No matter what you decide to do (or not) we really appreciate your lessons even if they are not used by you in your paintings. You really do help us and make it interesting and fun!
Another excellent and helpful video..............many thanks!
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it :)
It would be great if we could get a video with a work you’ve made, being glazed. To show like real-world “before and after” and maybe a few different ways it can be used. Like maybe to soften some things, or maybe to firm up a section of work? Or maybe taking the cool tone out of an area etc.
Great idea! I will add it to my list :) Thanks for watching!
Jason, thank you so much for this video and all of the others I have watched. Its of very helpful tips and information throughout and you've inspired me to try new things. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad you are enjoying the videos. :)
I want to glaze, I guess. It’s a lake- browns with trees reflected, going into a clear area where rocks show through. I have it done, and dry. So far it looks nice. Would glazing like this ad shine to the lake? It looks slightly reflective, but would like a little more shine, if possible. That’s to keep it “reflective-water like” which would be distinguished before I “oil over” and then later varnish the whole thing. I know to dry between layers. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching! Yes, glaze will add gloss to the area you are painting because of the extra medium in the layer. If you only varnish once everything is dry, then that difference will be maintained. Oiling out feeds the drier areas and evens everything out much more. Great question! :)
I never thought about painting in black and white and then glazing color over it, that's very interesting!
Thanks for watching! You can use other dark colors instead of black, like Burnt Umber, for example. The traditional old masters used a color called Verdaccio, which was like a green gray. :)
if you use liquin on the first layer, do you still employ fat over lean principle for subsequent layers?Or is the principle not used given the thinness of the layers . Thank you.
Again Jason, a great job. I like to use glazing for some of the fall colors in my paintings. Quick question. Have you a video on how you light your canvas when painting at night? Thanks again my friend.
In fact I just posted a video on studio lighting a few days ago! I keep the window in my studio covered so that the controlled lighting is the same for both day and night. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this Great Video!! Always was wondering about Glazing. This is succinct and explains the technique so well!!
Thanks so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Very nice and helpful explanation. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad you found my video useful! :) Thanks for watching and for the nice comment.
Thanks Jason very helpful as usual. I honestly think this is probably the best video about glazing I've seen on youtube. I have only one doubt though. I know liquin is good for glazing (and the fine detail version would be even better at that I suppose) but I've read pretty much everywhere you are not supposed to add too much of it to your paint (w&n says no more than 20% of total volume if I'm not mistaken). Is that enough to achieve a very subtle and transparent layer of colour? I doubt that even with the most transparent pigments. Do you think adding more liquin to the paint would cause problems? I see no reasons why it would, since some people use liquin even as a varnish with no problems (although it's not removable).
Thanks for the comment! To be honest, I am not sure about the 20% Liquin issue. I do know a lot of artists do use it to glaze, which would require you to use more than that. You can always go the route of using a traditional medium, which I prefer, but that's not always an option for everyone. The 20% might work if you were using a very transaprent color. You could also add in more linseed oil to make up the difference.
Thanks Jason. Yeah that's exactly what I thought. I don't really understand why adding more than 20% or so would be a problem. A more traditional medium would be "safer" for sure, but the shorter drying time with liquin is a big advantage. I'm going to experiment a bit, since I've never tried liquin for glazing.
Matur Heilans the real reason not to use more than 20% is to avoid to much dilution of a chromatic (especially opaque) pigment when you are trying to stretch out your expensive paint or make a thicker paint more creamy.
For everyone else: Do not add a Drying Medium to any batch of paint that you don’t plan on using up in that painting session. Don’t put out to much medium either. You should not try to put unused “liquin” back in the jar since it has began it’s drying process while sitting in the open air.
Thank you Jason. As usual, very informative.
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it. :)
thank you. keep it simple and direct.
I'm so glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching :)
Another great instructive video thanks . One question when doing layers is there a time limit between letting layers dry , can they be done to late and have dried to much . Hope that makes sense 😁
Thanks for watching! That is a great question! As far as I know, no, there is no time limit between layers. As long as the one underneath is dry then you can proceed to the next. I can't think of any reason why waiting an extra long time would make any difference. The only thing you'd want to be sure of is to remove any surface dust/dirt etc.
Susan Cook You can apply the next layer’s as soon as the previous layer is “dry” to the touch. You can actually avoid the “fat over lean” rule when using liquin type products. Liquin is designed to create a very flexible but strong layer that does not crack.
If you have a painting that has been drying for a very long time and you don’t know what the “fat/lean” ratio’s were then you could run into problems with the traditional mediums since the lower layers will be very “thirsty”. With Liquin products this is not an issue however, if you go with traditional it should be as fatty as you can make it and lie the painting flat to avoid runs and wrinkles and using Stand Oil would be best.
Thank you for sharing this very informative, and well done video !
Thanks for watching! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Hi, awesome video! If I paint a landscape, can I use any tranparent paint for glazing? Or, for tree, I have to use a green paint? Or I can use blue? Can I use a transparent paint on the whole canvas when I do Glazing?
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can use glazing for any subject where you need it. Typically glazing is used for certain areas, but there is no reason technically you couldn't put it on the whole canvas. Try experimenting and see how you can get it to work for trees and other landscape elements.
Thanks Jason mate, just what I was looking for.
Thanks for the nice comment! Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Great video, thank you! Does Liquin glaze dry glossy or matte?
Thanks for watching! Liquin will dry glossy when used as a glaze. :)
Good video! What I don't understand is - if the top layer must dry slower than the lower layer, - and Liquin dies in 24 hours, - how come you don't get cracks?
I made the assumption that one is using the same glazing medium through out, in this case Liquin. There are certain circumstances where you might need to allow a layer to dry thoroughly for severla months before glazing though. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks Jason, I'm quite new to painting and have never used liquin at all, (not alone from start to finish ). But I'm learning! 😊
I was pleasantly surprised when I found this demo because you do talk about glazing quite a bit in the color tutorials so I was becoming curious how to go about this. I was wondering what your opinion was as to how long to wait before glazing and then between glazing with traditional mediums? One person says to wait a least a year for the original to dry, another says using fast drying top coats is a crack risk. I tend to value your opinions over others because you appear to speak from personal experience and a working knowledge rather than from a largely theoretical stand point. I also saw an "old timer" in a forum say that, "lean over lean and fat over fat do not violate the fat over lean rule." Does this seem like a sound observation? A quick afterthought: Is glazing with acrylics as effective and manageable as with oils?
Thanks for watching and great question! As far as I have always heard, you can glaze as soon as the layer underneath is dry enough to do so without disturbing it. As long as fat over lean is followed you shouldn't get cracking. "Fat over lean" really means the same or more, so I would say your "old timer" is more or less correct. Glazing is really best with oils...acrylics can be glazed for sure, but it just doesn't have the same luminosity and evenness that oils would have.
So helpful, thank you!!
Thank you Sir! Great video. Learned something.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed this. :)
love your voice thanks
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
you are a great teacher I THANK YOU
Muy interesante. Gracias
Great video like always! I have one question i you have time! I would like to try out glazing with liquin over one painting i finish already that i paint with lenseed oil and sansador like mediums. Can i do that? Will that crack once?
According to what I understand it should be OK, but one thing you can do is mix a little plain linseed oil into the Liquin and then use that as your glazing medium just to be sure. Thanks for watching! :)
Wow! Thank You! 😃 Very helpful.
Great! Glad you enjoyed it :) Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this. Very concise.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Hi Jason! good video. Can linseed oil be used?
Thanks for a great question! Although the technical answer is "yes", if you are going to do more than one layer of glazing it's probably best to go with a medium. Mediums contain some thinner so you can increase the oil in the layers as you go. Plus, if you get too much oil in a layer it can wrinkle as it dries.
Can you use that 3-part custom oil/varnish/turpentine mix to do glazes?
Yes you can! Although traditionally for glazing that 3-part medium would use stand oil rather than regular linseed oil, but either will work. Thanks for watching!
Big thanks, to you Sir, very helpful
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching!
Very helpful thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching. :)
Ty very clear explanation
Thanks for watching! :)
so helpful thank you!!!!!!
I'm so glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching! :)
Always helpful
Can you glaze with basic linseed oil or turpentine? Because I'm not sure about what exactly do you mean by thinner..
A "thinner" is any material which makes the oil paint more fluid. Once used it typically evaporates away completely, It makes the paint easier to spread. You cannpt glaze with turpentine because it is just a thinner. Pure linseed oil isn't a good glazing medium either. You need a mix of the two for best results. The best glazing medium to use if you are unsure is Galkyd or Liquin. They can be used straight from the bottle. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you very much! So, mixed linseed oil and turpentine would do? It would be great for me, considering that of all possible oil mediums I currently have at my disposal only turpentine and linseed oil...
I glaze all the time😊
Awesome! It depends a lot on the style you work in. I tend to paint 99% of my stuff alla prima. :) Thanks for watching!
thank you
Hi. I was wondering if different mediums could be used in each layer? For example, first layer paint, next layer linseed glaze, next layer tinted alkyn? I would gather, the alkyn as final top layer always in multi medium layers?
Thanks for watching! That is actually a good question I had never thought of before. I guess I would say I can't think of a really good reason to do that. It seems like it would add a lot of complexity to the paint layers which could be a bad thing? I would stick with one medium, and maybe just add a tiny bit of either oil OR alkyd to the successive layers, but not both. Hope that helps!
Thanks for your input. Truthfully, I am not adept at using oils. I work with watercolors and was thinking about using oils in a way to create a luminous effect with multiple layers, like layerying transparencies. I haven't viewed your video on mediums yet. And will do so before asking silly questions. Thank you for all your efforts... your videos are very informative and help demystify the oil painting process :-)
Wonderful!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Tank you so Much Now i know bether
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Dear sir, you suggested that while glazing we put multiple layers. Are these layers of the same colour or different colours??
Thanks for watching! You can glaze with whatever colors you need to! :) Using the same color would deepen it and make a rich tone, while using different colors can create optical mixing effects.
Walcott Fine Art, Thanks for your reply sir.
Does glazing always darken, or is it possible to lighten an area with glazing?
In most cases glazing will darken an area as you are adding another layer of color. There are instances where you can glaze with white (which is called scumbling) which will give the area a smoky look. But it doesn't really lighten it the same way as mixing wet color with white does. Scumbling is good for depicting smoke or mist, or very sheer fabric, etc... Great question! Thanks for watching :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks Jason!
The best
Super
Thanks for watching!
can i use lindseed oil as a glazing medium ?
Technically yes, but it can take a long time to dry and might wrinkle if there is too much oil. It's best to use a glazing medium. Thanks for watching!
Is there a transparent yellow?
Yes, there are several. Look for either Hansa yellows or Diarylide yellows. WInsor Yellow is a good example. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you sir! And thank you for a great series of shows.
Thanks…
👍🏻
How come only one side of your mouth moves when you speak?
Thought this was a joke video at first, then realised this guy was serious
Jason, in the fat over lean law, can each layer have the same proportion of oil?
Well, it's hard to have exactly the same proportion of oil. So you will most likely have one layer with slightly more oil than another.
Peter Angel in the fat over lean rule, you should on purposely add more oil and less thinner. You should keep notes for each painting you are working on so that you know where you are at in this rule.
your background music is distracting, just letting you know.