Thanks for answering my spark plug question. I notice my chainsaw blade will move on its own a little when I unlock the operation to move the blue if that makes sense, is that nornal?
The chain should not move when the engine is running at idle. Make sure you have the idle speed set correctly, and turn the large idle adjustment screw counter-clockwise, to decrease the idle, if the engine is idling too fast. If the engine is actually idling correctly, (and the chain still moves), remove the side cover, chain, and bar, and inspect the clutch assembly for debris build up, and/or rust. Clean the assembly if need be, and you should be able to spin the clutch drum very freely once debris or rust is removed. I don't recommend starting a chainsaw with the chain brake engaged, because saws start at high rpm until the user squeezed the throttle trigger and cancels that function. While they are running at high rpm, the clutch has engaged the clutch drum, and is trying to power the chain, but the brake bad is engaged, and holding the drum stationary. This creates wear in the assemblies, and it's not uncommon for me to see side covers melted, and channels worn in the outer surface of the clutch drum, from the brake band, and the inner surface of the clutch drum, from the clutch shoes. If saws are started correctly with the saw turned at an angle, so that the pull starter rope handle points at the user's right shoulder socket, the rear handle clamped between the user's lower thigh area, and the left hand holding the apex of the curve, of the front handle on the saw, the saw can be safely started without worry of being hit by a spinning chain. In this style of starting procedure, the left hand pushes the saw downward as the right hand pulls up on the rope, and pulls that right hand toward the right shoulder socket. So the user benefits from the weight of the saw moving downward, and actually making it easier to pull the starter rope.
I am working on a cs310 here at the shop. It is in close to new condition. Works well at high rpm and no problem under load. I can not make it run correctly at lower rpm. I even put on a factory new Walbro carb. When it transitions down to lower rpm....still very high idle, it dies just as if you turned off the switch. I've worked on these saws for over 50 years now....and don't know what I'm missing. Already spent enough time on it to where I could have been better off just buyer the guy a new saw.lol. Any ideas?
I would do a crankcase vacuum test first, and then the pressure test (doing the pressure test first will push the crankshaft seals outward, and make them appear to be good). If it has good crankshaft seals, and good crankcase sealing/gaskets etc.....in other words, I prove it has an air tight bottom end... I would replace the coil (because you've tried 2 carburetors with the same result, of no change) under the assumption that the electronics in the coil have failed. Prior to ordering the coil, I'd pull the flywheel and confirm it wasn't damaged where the key (separate key on this saw) that sits in the crankshaft, engages the aluminum hub of the flywheel. These have an engine with an aluminum pan that is sealed to the upper cylinder, and it's not uncommon for that sealant to fail. Extremely common in all Stihl products. Sealant failure creates a crankcase leak, so they will run lean, which at idle will cause a high rpm, until they lean out and die. The leak isn't enough to affect the rest of the running range, because the carburetor is supplying sufficient oil in the fuel mix, to seal up the leak. They'll start fine cold, because the carburetor gets primed, and then the full-choke function "wets" the crankcase, and seals up the leaking sealant area of the pan, as well as the crankshaft seals(if they're leaking). So "you" wind up with a saw that may start and run fine, but either won't idle, or idles high and dies. Additionally, this saw uses a rubber boot as an intake duct, between carb and cylinder. Because it's a cheap saw, it simply has a plastic ring holding the boot onto the mounting hub on the cylinder. A failure in this area would create the running that you are experiencing. This is why I suggest proving the bottom end is air tight, as the first step of the diagnostics.
lt's very rare that I replace a spark plug, even on commercially used machines. It's also rare that I see a spark plug failure. As a general rule, they get replaced during a time of being serviced, along with the air filter, and fuel filter. I recommend only using original equipment NGK plugs, and never attempt to clean a spark plug, because using a metal brush or wire wheel on them transfers the metal from the brush, causing the spark to scatter on the spark plug, resulting in hard starting, misfires, backfires, rough running, and even non-starting.
It's a nice size for a home owner or small ranch operation where trimming and clearing each spring needs to be done, which is where this one lives. Echo builds nice products, and they are a popular brand here.
@@theaustralianconundrum Maruyama is excellent. I rarely see their machines here though, because no dealers are repping them. Stihl, Husqvarna, and Echo/Shindaiwa are what's popular in this area.
Thanks for answering my spark plug question. I notice my chainsaw blade will move on its own a little when I unlock the operation to move the blue if that makes sense, is that nornal?
The chain should not move when the engine is running at idle. Make sure you have the idle speed set correctly, and turn the large idle adjustment screw counter-clockwise, to decrease the idle, if the engine is idling too fast.
If the engine is actually idling correctly, (and the chain still moves), remove the side cover, chain, and bar, and inspect the clutch assembly for debris build up, and/or rust. Clean the assembly if need be, and you should be able to spin the clutch drum very freely once debris or rust is removed.
I don't recommend starting a chainsaw with the chain brake engaged, because saws start at high rpm until the user squeezed the throttle trigger and cancels that function. While they are running at high rpm, the clutch has engaged the clutch drum, and is trying to power the chain, but the brake bad is engaged, and holding the drum stationary. This creates wear in the assemblies, and it's not uncommon for me to see side covers melted, and channels worn in the outer surface of the clutch drum, from the brake band, and the inner surface of the clutch drum, from the clutch shoes.
If saws are started correctly with the saw turned at an angle, so that the pull starter rope handle points at the user's right shoulder socket, the rear handle clamped between the user's lower thigh area, and the left hand holding the apex of the curve, of the front handle on the saw, the saw can be safely started without worry of being hit by a spinning chain. In this style of starting procedure, the left hand pushes the saw downward as the right hand pulls up on the rope, and pulls that right hand toward the right shoulder socket. So the user benefits from the weight of the saw moving downward, and actually making it easier to pull the starter rope.
I am working on a cs310 here at the shop. It is in close to new condition. Works well at high rpm and no problem under load. I can not make it run correctly at lower rpm. I even put on a factory new Walbro carb. When it transitions down to lower rpm....still very high idle, it dies just as if you turned off the switch. I've worked on these saws for over 50 years now....and don't know what I'm missing. Already spent enough time on it to where I could have been better off just buyer the guy a new saw.lol.
Any ideas?
I would do a crankcase vacuum test first, and then the pressure test (doing the pressure test first will push the crankshaft seals outward, and make them appear to be good). If it has good crankshaft seals, and good crankcase sealing/gaskets etc.....in other words, I prove it has an air tight bottom end... I would replace the coil (because you've tried 2 carburetors with the same result, of no change) under the assumption that the electronics in the coil have failed. Prior to ordering the coil, I'd pull the flywheel and confirm it wasn't damaged where the key (separate key on this saw) that sits in the crankshaft, engages the aluminum hub of the flywheel.
These have an engine with an aluminum pan that is sealed to the upper cylinder, and it's not uncommon for that sealant to fail. Extremely common in all Stihl products. Sealant failure creates a crankcase leak, so they will run lean, which at idle will cause a high rpm, until they lean out and die. The leak isn't enough to affect the rest of the running range, because the carburetor is supplying sufficient oil in the fuel mix, to seal up the leak. They'll start fine cold, because the carburetor gets primed, and then the full-choke function "wets" the crankcase, and seals up the leaking sealant area of the pan, as well as the crankshaft seals(if they're leaking). So "you" wind up with a saw that may start and run fine, but either won't idle, or idles high and dies.
Additionally, this saw uses a rubber boot as an intake duct, between carb and cylinder. Because it's a cheap saw, it simply has a plastic ring holding the boot onto the mounting hub on the cylinder. A failure in this area would create the running that you are experiencing.
This is why I suggest proving the bottom end is air tight, as the first step of the diagnostics.
How often should the spark plug be replaced?
lt's very rare that I replace a spark plug, even on commercially used machines. It's also rare that I see a spark plug failure. As a general rule, they get replaced during a time of being serviced, along with the air filter, and fuel filter. I recommend only using original equipment NGK plugs, and never attempt to clean a spark plug, because using a metal brush or wire wheel on them transfers the metal from the brush, causing the spark to scatter on the spark plug, resulting in hard starting, misfires, backfires, rough running, and even non-starting.
These are very nice quality. I pick them up at yard sales and they all think they are cheap Chinese junk.
It's a nice size for a home owner or small ranch operation where trimming and clearing each spring needs to be done, which is where this one lives. Echo builds nice products, and they are a popular brand here.
@@austinado16 Hardly anyone knows Maruyama or Echo here. It's Stihl, Husqvarna or Chinese junk.
@@theaustralianconundrum Maruyama is excellent. I rarely see their machines here though, because no dealers are repping them. Stihl, Husqvarna, and Echo/Shindaiwa are what's popular in this area.
@@austinado16 Here's their factory assembly in Japan video called: The process by which Japanese chainsaws are made. An old chainsaw factory in Japan.