*Good video!* But let me add something very important - I have been in the Boy Scouts, in the US Navy, in Alaska for nine (9) years, and must say this wisdom and/or fact on: "THE SURVIVAL KNIFE" If you need a *"survival"* knife (that is a knife *"specially designed"* to be beefy/tougher/live threw a nuclear blast) to save your life then: You really need training, teaching on basic outdoorsmanship, or something cause you are lacking. All and most kinds knives can "help" you survive in a survival incident. The thing to remember with a knife or any tool is: "ITS NOT THE TOOL - ITS THE MAN/WOMAN". So the Finn Hawk, Fallkniven, Marttiini, Mora, or whatever you use (axe, saw, machete, garden shears, your mama's butcher cleaver, etc.), they are good to have but they are all second (2nd) to your: - survival *knowledge* - and *"skill"* using that knowledge Also - If you get into more than one (1) or two (2) real survival incident(s), you are a danger to yourself & all those with you, if they are relying on you. RANT MODE - *OFF*
Place your palm where your thumb meet up together on top of the sheath belt clip with your middle finger wrapped around the bird beak on the knife. With one movement pull with your middle finger and index finger next to it on the handle and it slides right out.....Yes weird instructions but it works perfect, it gives enough grip and motion to pull it past the grooves that lock it in the sheath. That thing was impossible to get out at first but once I figured it out I liked it, its a great carving knife but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND scandivexing that edge.
Mike Uman XHP doesn't have the edge stability to support a scandi edge, it would be very chippy. Also it would be very hard to sharpen. I'm not sure about 3V, that might work.
I did not know that about XHP. Thank you for the info! You just saved me a lot of time, and, effort. I was seriously considering taking one of my XHP Recon 1's down to a 15-17 degree bevel. I think I'll just keep it at 20 degrees, and, call it good. :)
Mike Uman 15-17 dps is fine, I use all my XHP knives around that, and didn't have any issues. Scandis however tend to be around the 11-13 range. That I wouldn't try with XHP. It might hold up but I wouldn't have much confidence in it.
Mátyás, what would be your opinion with regard to vulnerability to chipping between S30V and XHP on a slicey, thin-behind-the-edge Spyderco Chaparral in the CF laminate? I won a new-in-box, circa 2011-2012 original Chaparral at auction very recently. I went for the older S30V version for one reason, basically -- after agonizing over countless YT videos which were inconclusive because of many variables, I guessed that the S30V would present the brighter, more finished, less "grey", more dressy look between the two alloys 😦❓❓, since the Chaparral is to be my lightweight, more 'formal' gent's carry knife for EDC. However, having gotten in a "lightly used" [sic] Para 3 in S30V, I was kind of taken aback by *three* edge chips that failed the thumbnail test, and which I could see with my fairly aged naked eyes. So, of course, I am back to agonizing with augmented second thoughts about the Chaparral. I would have expected a bit better ultimate edge retention from the XHP; but in this case, looks really matter to me, despite my being a performance first, form follows function kind of guy (and retired design pro). I have to add, relative ease of maintenance -- or at least, consistency of results -- is also important, given that I approach the sharpening of fine knives as a late newcomer. Your advice (or anyone's, speaking from experience) would be greatly appreciated. I can still backtrack to XHP at *this* point at minimal transaction cost, etc., if there is really much in this at all. Thanks!
I've been thinking my videos were somewhat decent but then Every time you put out a video like this it stops me in my tracks and makes me realize the insane amount of work and effort and editing you put into this. I have a long way to go. Awesome video as always!
Great video, despite the dicks. A closer comparison to the Finn Hawk would be the the Mora Companion HD. Their blade thickness are about the same and they are also about the same price (in the US). I prefer the Finn Hawk due a more comfortable handle and a stouter tip.
Slightly harder to pull out? More like holy damn I had to nearly use half my strength to pull it out and was lucky to not slash straight through the sheath my first time pulling it out. lmao
Great review. I've got a few Mora Companions and they are hard to beat for the price. The carbon HD version has taken some serious punishment and come out unscathed.
My finger has hovered over the 'add to cart button', many a times with this knife. Thanks for the review. Edit:So im typing my comment annndddd I looked up ... Cardboard penis. Well played sir
O.K., steel nerds and backyard science steel nerd honcho Pete, here's my question: Putting aside the more specialized and rarer/pricier high nitrogen content options (H1, LC200N), what is the best remaining steel (trashable without regret, if necessary) for use in salt water environments -- aboard a sea kayak and small sailing craft, for example, and living along the coast? My guess from sketchy evidence: #1. 4116... #2. N690/680, a bit ahead of the rest of a small "softer" metal pack (P. Bos 420HC, e.g.). So is this Finn Hawk, or a Finn Bear, or another Cold Steel 4116 model the better choice then over the Moras, et.al.? I am, of course, assuming sensible renewal of protectants on the blade and a proper end of 'working' day flush out. Thanks, fellow Steel Nerd News addicts!
I've got both knives. The Cold Steel is a good knife but gor me the Mora handle is nicer, the sheath is better and its cheeper. It's just, for me, a nicer to use knife. Is there much in it? Not really but it's noticeable and Mora us cheeper. So no brained for me. Spine issue is sorted in 30 seconds with a file so that makes no odds to me either.
Say Heah Cedric Thanx You, I always thought 12c27 was much better than the 1.4116 Krupp. So was your wife disappointed when she caught you with your cardboard wish. heh heh heh. Dilly Dilly.,,.p
*Good video!* But let me add something very important -
I have been in the Boy Scouts, in the US Navy, in Alaska for nine (9) years, and must say this wisdom and/or fact on:
"THE SURVIVAL KNIFE"
If you need a *"survival"* knife (that is a knife *"specially designed"* to be beefy/tougher/live threw a nuclear blast)
to save your life then:
You really need training, teaching on basic outdoorsmanship, or something cause you are lacking.
All and most kinds knives can "help" you survive in a survival incident. The thing to remember with a knife or any tool is:
"ITS NOT THE TOOL - ITS THE MAN/WOMAN".
So the Finn Hawk, Fallkniven, Marttiini, Mora, or whatever you use (axe, saw, machete, garden shears, your mama's butcher cleaver, etc.),
they are good to have but they are all second (2nd) to your:
- survival *knowledge*
- and *"skill"* using that knowledge
Also - If you get into more than one (1) or two (2) real survival incident(s), you are a danger to yourself & all those with you, if they are relying on you.
RANT MODE - *OFF*
Good for CS! They're not my favorite but I do like to see a big company adapt and change to what the people want.
My biggest gripe about moras is the lack of lanyard hole which is why copped a finn hawk
Place your palm where your thumb meet up together on top of the sheath belt clip with your middle finger wrapped around the bird beak on the knife. With one movement pull with your middle finger and index finger next to it on the handle and it slides right out.....Yes weird instructions but it works perfect, it gives enough grip and motion to pull it past the grooves that lock it in the sheath. That thing was impossible to get out at first but once I figured it out I liked it, its a great carving knife but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND scandivexing that edge.
Your freaking hilarious love the channel!
I like this cheapo! Top of line Hultafor is my fav. Until you hit Garberg.
Can you imagine this knife in CTS-XHP? Or, maybe 3V?
I'd get in line to get one of those!
Mike Uman XHP doesn't have the edge stability to support a scandi edge, it would be very chippy. Also it would be very hard to sharpen.
I'm not sure about 3V, that might work.
I did not know that about XHP. Thank you for the info! You just saved me a lot of time, and, effort. I was seriously considering taking one of my XHP Recon 1's down to a 15-17 degree bevel. I think I'll just keep it at 20 degrees, and, call it good. :)
Mike Uman 15-17 dps is fine, I use all my XHP knives around that, and didn't have any issues. Scandis however tend to be around the 11-13 range. That I wouldn't try with XHP. It might hold up but I wouldn't have much confidence in it.
Mátyás, what would be your opinion with regard to vulnerability to chipping between S30V and XHP on a slicey, thin-behind-the-edge Spyderco Chaparral in the CF laminate? I won a new-in-box, circa 2011-2012 original Chaparral at auction very recently. I went for the older S30V version for one reason, basically -- after agonizing over countless YT videos which were inconclusive because of many variables, I guessed that the S30V would present the brighter, more finished, less "grey", more dressy look between the two alloys 😦❓❓, since the Chaparral is to be my lightweight, more 'formal' gent's carry knife for EDC.
However, having gotten in a "lightly used" [sic] Para 3 in S30V, I was kind of taken aback by *three* edge chips that failed the thumbnail test, and which I could see with my fairly aged naked eyes. So, of course, I am back to agonizing with augmented second thoughts about the Chaparral. I would have expected a bit better ultimate edge retention from the XHP; but in this case, looks really matter to me, despite my being a performance first, form follows function kind of guy (and retired design pro).
I have to add, relative ease of maintenance -- or at least, consistency of results -- is also important, given that I approach the sharpening of fine knives as a late newcomer. Your advice (or anyone's, speaking from experience) would be greatly appreciated. I can still backtrack to XHP at *this* point at minimal transaction cost, etc., if there is really much in this at all. Thanks!
Super stainless steels usually don't do good with Scandi grinds, 3V might work out though.
I've been thinking my videos were somewhat decent but then Every time you put out a video like this it stops me in my tracks and makes me realize the insane amount of work and effort and editing you put into this. I have a long way to go. Awesome video as always!
Where in Aus did you get one for 30 dorra? 50 was the cheapest i could find.
Great video, despite the dicks. A closer comparison to the Finn Hawk would be the the Mora Companion HD. Their blade thickness are about the same and they are also about the same price (in the US). I prefer the Finn Hawk due a more comfortable handle and a stouter tip.
It's Mora less a Hultifors HD knife...
Slightly harder to pull out? More like holy damn I had to nearly use half my strength to pull it out and was lucky to not slash straight through the sheath my first time pulling it out. lmao
Great review. I've got a few Mora Companions and they are hard to beat for the price. The carbon HD version has taken some serious punishment and come out unscathed.
My finger has hovered over the 'add to cart button', many a times with this knife.
Thanks for the review.
Edit:So im typing my comment annndddd I looked up
... Cardboard penis. Well played sir
good review and funny sh*t!! Thumbs up👍👍
Pete rocks!
O.K., steel nerds and backyard science steel nerd honcho Pete, here's my question:
Putting aside the more specialized and rarer/pricier high nitrogen content options (H1, LC200N), what is the best remaining steel (trashable without regret, if necessary) for use in salt water environments -- aboard a sea kayak and small sailing craft, for example, and living along the coast?
My guess from sketchy evidence: #1. 4116... #2. N690/680, a bit ahead of the rest of a small "softer" metal pack (P. Bos 420HC, e.g.). So is this Finn Hawk, or a Finn Bear, or another Cold Steel 4116 model the better choice then over the Moras, et.al.? I am, of course, assuming sensible renewal of protectants on the blade and a proper end of 'working' day flush out. Thanks, fellow Steel Nerd News addicts!
I've got both knives. The Cold Steel is a good knife but gor me the Mora handle is nicer, the sheath is better and its cheeper. It's just, for me, a nicer to use knife. Is there much in it? Not really but it's noticeable and Mora us cheeper. So no brained for me. Spine issue is sorted in 30 seconds with a file so that makes no odds to me either.
Is it full tang?
Others reported roughly a 3/4 tang.
I like the sheath better.
I don't own many knives, but I now have a giant collection of cardboard d*#ks.
Sod. You're looking for the word Sod.
He should have used a sodbuster
Sam I prefer "living lawn".
1:49 Mate you yust complited life.
Lol that hotdog(no DEMONETIZED peeps here Cough Cough stupid youtube)
I like turtles
Haaahaahaaa!!! Awesome!
funny review as ever, though useful also. pull-out game weak lol.
Say Heah Cedric Thanx You, I always thought 12c27 was much better than the 1.4116 Krupp. So was your wife disappointed when she caught you with your cardboard wish. heh heh heh. Dilly Dilly.,,.p
1:55 huge dik.
I miss the old intro :(
ThisIsAPrettyLongUserNameWhyTheFuckWouldHeDoThatSoThatEveryoneWouldThumbsUpIt same
I can put the intro back in if you like! Some folks dont like em, some do. Maybe a poll is in order
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors do a straw poll