Wow you've done a fucking brilliant job! If you showed that to someone who didn't see the interior before they would've thought it was new. Great Job!!!!! :)
That's awesome!! The topside paint I used (HMG) has a non-skid additive as do most other brands. It's a fine plastic granular that you just mix in. Since it's plastic and very light it suspends in the paint better than trying to mix in sand etc. and gives you a very even texture. So far I've fished the boat in bare feet and with boots and it works well and I always have lots of water and bait / blood on the deck. I wasn't sure that such a fine texture would work but it does.
Looks great... i just finished up one of my own except it's a 120 I/O so my transom had to have a lot of exact measurements. It started out as just a redeck, but like projects always seem to go it ended up a full resto. It's crazy how much resin and glass a boat will take. In the end it will be just how you want and 100x stronger and better bonded than the factory could ever do. Great job Jeff
I love it. It's better balanced and easy to fish solo. I fish from the James River which is 5 miles wide to the inshore coast off Virginia Beach and the Eastern Shore of VA. It takes 3-4' waves and chop better than any boat of it's size i've driven and has enough room to get around. When the conditions are calm (like a lake) the boat planes fast and runs 30+. Having the weight farther back and centered is the only way to go. I have my gas tank under my console too, for the same reason.
Beautiful job sir. You're fishing nice waters, too. The natural beauty nearby was the only good thing about being stationed out of Norfolk for 4 years, LOL. I Recently purchased two used Gheenoes, an LT25 and a 13. The 13 has a few dings and sketchy bits, all of them non-structural. The transom was "rebuilt" by the previous owner, who seemed to have followed an "if you can't tie a knot, tie a lot" philosophy. It's solid, but it ain't right, if you know what I mean. Videos like yours and others that share their hard-won knowledge give me the confidence to tackle those jobs instead of spending money I don't have to get it done by others. It helps that I'm a life-long woodworker, so a lot of the skills used in boatbuilding are in my wheelhouse (pun intended). Cool! Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to watch some more of your videos before I go make some sawdust. Cheers!
Hello. Thanks for you compliment. 1. I mix around 1/3rd acetone unless the resin is thicker than normal and yes, I use hardener - it drys pretty fast with the acetone. 2. It's not caulk, it's actually filler - a mix of resin and an agent called micro spheres, commonly called glass bubbles. Makes it work like bondo. You can add chop strand mat too for more support. Also called fairing compound. 3. non skid was a powder additive to the paint and I rolled it. Good luck on your project !
Thank you. It's been a lot of fun. I recently added a Tachometer, Voltmeter, electric horn, 12v socket and upgraded the wiring after installing a 70hp Evinrude 3cylinder.
That is exactly what I thought the moment I saw that hunk of mosquito larvae filled fiberglass. The flare is like a Carolina sportfishing boat and the hull is sporty like an Albemarle or SeaCraft but it's under 16'. Glasspar built some radical boats back in the day and this thing rides like you wouldn't believe - probably better than ever once I put the fuel tank in the middle. There are lots of old Avalon's out there in people's back yards rotting away - one is waiting for you!!
I'm down in FL.. I barley ever come across boats like this sadly. I been looking for something unique but also over 21' I could convert into a center console with a hull similar to this. Preferably an inboard. Everyone ask why I prefer inboards, I feel they are more reliable, especially diesels.
Look into older Grady's , Chris Crafts and Formulas. NC and SC are full of them that are good candidates for conversion ... Especially Gradys, well and the occasional Carolina Classic. Building one is also a good option.
I had a decent overlap of the two sections towards the bow and a little at the transom. I used liquid nails and wood screws to get it in place then fiberglassed the top and bottom sides in place. I used heavy biaxial cloth with mat attached to glass and support the underside of the gunwale to the sides of the hull - the top was a couple layers of 10oz over tiger-hair (resin, filler and chopped strand).
I used regular construction grade plywood BUT I saturated all sides of the wood (especially the edges) with diluted resin (mix'd with acetone). Next both sides of the deck including the anchor locker were laminated with cloth. I did the same with all the wood I used except the stringers which only got laminated on one side.
@tasmania105 - most of it is just glassed to the hull. The only place I put screws through the hull was back on the top of the transom where the boxes connect to it and around the gunwales where I added the new structure to what was left after I cut the old stuff out.
You're welcome. I've got a lot more done on it now - the stripes are gone, motor cleaned and painted, trailer rebuilt etc. I'll be posting a follow up or two and may re-do the video to include everything with a few comments about materials and techniques.
@KaizenUSA - in general it's called fairing compound. You can buy it (like Bondo) or you can make it yourself that way it's cheaper and you can control consistency. 3M makes a product called 'Glass Bubbles' - it's a fine white powder - you just add it to polyester resin to thicken it and make it spreadable. West Systems also has a similar product. You can use it with wax to make it sand easier.
@KAIZENUSA - I had to add a wood shim on each side to tighten it up - then it was just glued with construction adhesive. Later I glassed all around it. The glue just really holds the piece in place til the glass goes on.
I used the cheapest wood that Lowes had. I think the 2x2s were pine but not sure about the plywood - the deck and transom were higher end Lowes plywood but that's about all I can tell you. I had a lot of people tell me that I had to use marine grade wood but that was completely out of my budget for a project like this. Had it been a SeaCraft, Classic Mako or something that I planned to keep forever I would have probably used Fir.
Thank you. That's a question I get a lot and it's really hard to say exactly because I continue to add new features and make upgrades. I think the total cost for the build itself was around $2500, including hardware like hinges, rod holders etc. Add the motor and controls for another $500 and $500 in the trailer. By now with the VHF, trolling motor, 70hp motor and other tweaks probably $4000-$4250 total - or roughly the cost of buying a similar boat on Craigslist ;-)
@SeanMitchellCanada - I used good old fashioned polyester resin. I saturated all the wood (all sides) with a mix of acetone and resin to prevent it from ever soaking water if the shell of cloth and resin break down. Most all of the wood I used was covered with at least 1 layer of fiberglass cloth on each exposed side. Biaxial cloth for the transom - 2 layers, 1 layer to glass the underside of the gunwale to the hull. 2 layers of 10oz cloth on the deck, 1-2 layers of 6oz on the other stuff.
HMG (hmgmarine) is a UK product and not as widely available as brands like Interlux, Petit and Bluewater (which I've also used on this project). Any of them will work and I'm pretty sure they all offer a non-skid additive. There is also pre-mixed non-skid paint from people like Interlux. The non-skid additive will work in most any topside paint. I purchased all of my hardware, lights and electrical components from (wholesalemarine) - they also sell paints!!
@Kaizenusa - I built the console around the gas tank - it's an 11gallon portable. that was the reason the console was a little on the blocky side (for this version).
It took me more than a few weeks but I was working outside so I had weather to contend with. I wish I had tracked the number of hours but I didn't. Overall it took me over a year to complete but I was working a day or two a week and didn't do anything from late December to March.
There is a good chance I'm going to be doing another project boat here in the near future and I bought a video camera so that I could do exactly that. To be honest, the videos I've made about this boat were an afterthought once I'd already done most of the work on it and only had access to a standard digital camera. Keep an eye on UA-cam.
why only on one side of the stringers? i put 2 layers of chop strand and 2 layers of 7 1/2 oz on all stringers using marine grade wood, but i dont remember how many plys it is. but i cabosiled the stringers to the hull with epoxy and used polyester to go over the stringers. i can give you a link to see the rebuild if you like.
@tasmania105 - I may have posted a link to this video on a classic Glasspar forum but I didn't do any big postings. Most of the forums I visited were back when I was looking for ideas to start my project so postings were usually questions etc, rather than info on my project.
Brett - excellent job on the restoration!!! I'm doing the same and I have a couple of questions that were not addressed in earlier posts: 1) what was the ratio of resin to acetone for the sealing of the wood and did you use hardener when sealing? If not why? 2) I see alot of what looks like white caulk before you put the gel coat on.. can you tell me what kind of caulk can go inbetween the resine and gel coat and still get the proper bond? 3) how did you apply the skid additive? mix or spread?
Great job. I have seen in other comments that you used a lot of lowes lumber & ply. How do you treat the lumber? Do you cover it with fiberglass to protect it? Do you also fiberglass the bow & stern storage units to the hull? I am looking at getting a project boat, so I'm interested to find out how to approach these things.
hello & thanks for watching. I was working very low budget so I had to rely on wood that isnt marine grade. look for dry as possible. i went to a few stores. i pre treat the wood by painting it with resin with about 25 to 30 percent acetone or styrene. then i totally wrapped all the wood in fiberglass cloth. so all the wood has been pre treated then totally encapsulated. the only place ive had issues is where the glass cracked in a couple spots from stress and rough chopp conditions.
This is a fantastic piece of work! So impressive that im going to do the same thing with my glasspar, one question though, roughly how much money did you spend total on this restoration?
I think I may have answered you on another comment so excuse me if I'm repeating. Some is pine - the 2x2s and 1x2s are the cheapest stuff available at Lowes. The plywood isn't marine grade but I don't think it's pine - the deck and transom are a finish plywood and I believe it has a fir outer laminate but not positive. I would have loved to have the money to buy marine grade or better yet plastic composite but was working under a seriously tight budget.
Where can I get HMG? I checked online and couldn't find anything...also where did you get those lights that are in the front of the center console and in the bow. Thanks again!
Bret amazing rebuild. I'm in the process of doing the same. your videos have motivated me big time. I have a question regarding the pvc, is that for running cables? ty
Thank you very much. I did use a couple sections of PVC pipe for running various electrical wires etc. One section through the fish box going up to the bow and another larger one from the console to the stern - both under the deck. Good luck with your project.
how do you like the center console vs. standard as far as driving around the lake? I have a gramps ol 64' lonestar that is in progress... I almost started on the deck today until I saw a center console conversion, now I'm debating.
dam I wish I knew how to rebuild a boat, can you please make a video step by step, like saying what are you using and how to use it, I know im asking to much but I want to learn please
How much did this cost you? I'm looking to do the same with a 24ft sea junk sea craft side console inboard. But not sure if it would just be feasible to buy a shorter pre made center console fair condition out board. Since 24+ footers are well out of my price range.
The build cost around $2500 (not including outboard and trailer). I've wanted to do the same to a bigger boat like a SeaCraft - it would be an awesome project.
Hey mate how long did it take? I'm going to do it to my 5.3 meter runabout, being aluminium and having a boilermaker trade I'm hoping its not going to take me long , a couple of solid weekends I'm hoping .
because your boat and my boat were not built the same way to start with. In the stern of my boat where I had to rebuild the bilge area I did pretty much the same as you (minus the marine ply).
hi man I know it has been a while,but please I am nearly done with me boat and I would like to know if you used gelcoat with or without wax for the froor and everything in white color.thank and merry Christmas
I've done a couple things. The boat in this video I used liquid nails to bond the wood to the hull, then glassed over it. I had also bonded the 2 sheets of plywood together using liquid nails. The new boat I'm restoring I used resin to bond each layer like the factory did. Hull - layer of mat & resin - plywood sheet - mat & resin - plywood sheet and. Around the edges I mix chop strand mat (tiger hair) and use it to fill any voids and glass in the edges, then I use resin filler (bondo) to fill and round the corner so the cover layer of cloth will transition better - lastly I glassed over with 1708 biaxial.
I just looked at a lot of different consoles and then built one around the fuel tank - that was the primary factor in the console width. I started to build it a little taller but after looking at it in the boat cut it down a few inches.
It just a matter of design and fabrication. There's really no other answer because most boats are different. I spent a lot of time staring at it. I probably took the piece off and on the boat 10x as I was working on it
ok in watched this about 20 times bahaha, am currently doing this now on my quarter cab! how did you measure or determine where the centre cab goes? and was there a re-enforcement for that to sit on? or was it just glued in place? cheers love your work
Hello & thanks. It was pretty much just trying to evenly space out the console and seat with room between to stand and room behind to stand and fish. Most of them you see near the middle of the boat (from to back) - the farther back the better the ride but less room to fish. I did add a couple ribs under that part of the deck but I also have a fuel tank inside my console. It's bolted down, I have an access hatch between the console and seat that I can use to get under the deck.
I only had to repair the existing stringers on this project in the back near the transom. They are just fiberglassed to the hull on each side with 1708 biaxial cloth - the same type of heavy cloth I used on the transom and to laminate the gunwales to the hull.
Building a console for my project boat it’s a 16 foot, about what were you’re dimensions of your console I like design that you have also how wide is your boat mine where I intend to put the console is 5.5 feet
I measured everything today - the console is 26" wide and 23" deep about 34" tall. It ended up that width only because of the size of the 12 gallon fuel tank. That pretty much dominated the plans for the console. The boat is around 60" wide at the deck level where the console sits. 24" would have made it so much easier for the windshield.
Overall it's held up great but this year I decided to repair a section of deck under the seat and console. There were a few soft spots around fasteners. I sanded down the rest of the deck and added 2 layers of mat with vinylester resin and used marine grade plywood.
how did you become familiar with fiberglass/boat construction? i just purchased a 22' skiff with a soft floor behind seat to transom but the transom is solid.... its a rolled gunnel boat and i am considering gutting and replacing the entire floor and transom
Hi friend, nice work. I would like to share this to my friends but they can't see it because youtube is blocked in china. Do you mind sending me the pictures in the video ? Thanks no matter this is ok or not.
@KaizenUSA - in general it's called fairing compound. You can buy it (like Bondo) or you can make it yourself that way it's cheaper and you can control consistency. 3M makes a product called 'Glass Bubbles' - it's a fine white powder - you just add it to polyester resin to thicken it and make it spreadable. West Systems also has a similar product. You can use it with wax to make it sand easier.
Wow you've done a fucking brilliant job! If you showed that to someone who didn't see the interior before they would've thought it was new. Great Job!!!!! :)
That's a real nice vision meticulously rendered into reality...
WELL DONE
Thank you
That's awesome!! The topside paint I used (HMG) has a non-skid additive as do most other brands. It's a fine plastic granular that you just mix in. Since it's plastic and very light it suspends in the paint better than trying to mix in sand etc. and gives you a very even texture. So far I've fished the boat in bare feet and with boots and it works well and I always have lots of water and bait / blood on the deck. I wasn't sure that such a fine texture would work but it does.
Brett, I had to watch this video twice because I was so impressed with the rebuild. Awesome work, bro!!!
Looks great... i just finished up one of my own except it's a 120 I/O so my transom had to have a lot of exact measurements. It started out as just a redeck, but like projects always seem to go it ended up a full resto.
It's crazy how much resin and glass a boat will take. In the end it will be just how you want and 100x stronger and better bonded than the factory could ever do.
Great job
Jeff
Thank you. I know what you mean, from start to finish my project kept getting bigger and more involved.
I love it. It's better balanced and easy to fish solo. I fish from the James River which is 5 miles wide to the inshore coast off Virginia Beach and the Eastern Shore of VA. It takes 3-4' waves and chop better than any boat of it's size i've driven and has enough room to get around. When the conditions are calm (like a lake) the boat planes fast and runs 30+. Having the weight farther back and centered is the only way to go. I have my gas tank under my console too, for the same reason.
Beautiful job sir. You're fishing nice waters, too. The natural beauty nearby was the only good thing about being stationed out of Norfolk for 4 years, LOL.
I Recently purchased two used Gheenoes, an LT25 and a 13. The 13 has a few dings and sketchy bits, all of them non-structural. The transom was "rebuilt" by the previous owner, who seemed to have followed an "if you can't tie a knot, tie a lot" philosophy. It's solid, but it ain't right, if you know what I mean.
Videos like yours and others that share their hard-won knowledge give me the confidence to tackle those jobs instead of spending money I don't have to get it done by others. It helps that I'm a life-long woodworker, so a lot of the skills used in boatbuilding are in my wheelhouse (pun intended). Cool!
Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to watch some more of your videos before I go make some sawdust. Cheers!
Hello. Thanks for you compliment.
1. I mix around 1/3rd acetone unless the resin is thicker than normal and yes, I use hardener - it drys pretty fast with the acetone.
2. It's not caulk, it's actually filler - a mix of resin and an agent called micro spheres, commonly called glass bubbles. Makes it work like bondo. You can add chop strand mat too for more support. Also called fairing compound.
3. non skid was a powder additive to the paint and I rolled it.
Good luck on your project !
thank you - it's been a lot of fun planning, building and using.
Thank you. I live in Suffolk Virginia but this boat is pretty much done. I may start another one next year.
Thank you. It's been a lot of fun. I recently added a Tachometer, Voltmeter, electric horn, 12v socket and upgraded the wiring after installing a 70hp Evinrude 3cylinder.
Fantastic work my friend!
Think I'm in love! What an amazing hull design btw..
That is exactly what I thought the moment I saw that hunk of mosquito larvae filled fiberglass. The flare is like a Carolina sportfishing boat and the hull is sporty like an Albemarle or SeaCraft but it's under 16'. Glasspar built some radical boats back in the day and this thing rides like you wouldn't believe - probably better than ever once I put the fuel tank in the middle. There are lots of old Avalon's out there in people's back yards rotting away - one is waiting for you!!
I'm down in FL.. I barley ever come across boats like this sadly. I been looking for something unique but also over 21' I could convert into a center console with a hull similar to this. Preferably an inboard. Everyone ask why I prefer inboards, I feel they are more reliable, especially diesels.
Look into older Grady's , Chris Crafts and Formulas. NC and SC are full of them that are good candidates for conversion ... Especially Gradys, well and the occasional Carolina Classic. Building one is also a good option.
Nice work Buddy I do the same work in Pakistan...it's tutorial to watch your video Keep it up...
thank you - I wish you the best of luck with your project
I had a decent overlap of the two sections towards the bow and a little at the transom. I used liquid nails and wood screws to get it in place then fiberglassed the top and bottom sides in place. I used heavy biaxial cloth with mat attached to glass and support the underside of the gunwale to the sides of the hull - the top was a couple layers of 10oz over tiger-hair (resin, filler and chopped strand).
I enjoyed looking at you project. Good luck and maybe you can add an in the water shot of the finished boat.
Thank you for sharing your project.
I used regular construction grade plywood BUT I saturated all sides of the wood (especially the edges) with diluted resin (mix'd with acetone). Next both sides of the deck including the anchor locker were laminated with cloth. I did the same with all the wood I used except the stringers which only got laminated on one side.
Good job man looks great
thats still really good time for all that work
awesome will do. ty so much for your quick feedback.
@tasmania105 - most of it is just glassed to the hull. The only place I put screws through the hull was back on the top of the transom where the boxes connect to it and around the gunwales where I added the new structure to what was left after I cut the old stuff out.
You're welcome. I've got a lot more done on it now - the stripes are gone, motor cleaned and painted, trailer rebuilt etc. I'll be posting a follow up or two and may re-do the video to include everything with a few comments about materials and techniques.
Thank you, very nice job and very wellmade video. Félicitations!!!
it's a 60hp Evinrude, 1980. I picked it up from Craigslist for $500 and haven't done anything but clean it up!!!
@KaizenUSA - in general it's called fairing compound. You can buy it (like Bondo) or you can make it yourself that way it's cheaper and you can control consistency. 3M makes a product called 'Glass Bubbles' - it's a fine white powder - you just add it to polyester resin to thicken it and make it spreadable. West Systems also has a similar product. You can use it with wax to make it sand easier.
@KAIZENUSA - I had to add a wood shim on each side to tighten it up - then it was just glued with construction adhesive. Later I glassed all around it. The glue just really holds the piece in place til the glass goes on.
Wow, this is very fucking nice. I'm impressed.
Great work, I will be doing something similar to a bayliner capri 1985
Great job!
I used the cheapest wood that Lowes had. I think the 2x2s were pine but not sure about the plywood - the deck and transom were higher end Lowes plywood but that's about all I can tell you. I had a lot of people tell me that I had to use marine grade wood but that was completely out of my budget for a project like this. Had it been a SeaCraft, Classic Mako or something that I planned to keep forever I would have probably used Fir.
Thank you. That's a question I get a lot and it's really hard to say exactly because I continue to add new features and make upgrades. I think the total cost for the build itself was around $2500, including hardware like hinges, rod holders etc. Add the motor and controls for another $500 and $500 in the trailer. By now with the VHF, trolling motor, 70hp motor and other tweaks probably $4000-$4250 total - or roughly the cost of buying a similar boat on Craigslist ;-)
@SeanMitchellCanada - I used good old fashioned polyester resin. I saturated all the wood (all sides) with a mix of acetone and resin to prevent it from ever soaking water if the shell of cloth and resin break down. Most all of the wood I used was covered with at least 1 layer of fiberglass cloth on each exposed side. Biaxial cloth for the transom - 2 layers, 1 layer to glass the underside of the gunwale to the hull. 2 layers of 10oz cloth on the deck, 1-2 layers of 6oz on the other stuff.
Bravo, my first comment to a youtube vid, i was impressed
HMG (hmgmarine) is a UK product and not as widely available as brands like Interlux, Petit and Bluewater (which I've also used on this project). Any of them will work and I'm pretty sure they all offer a non-skid additive. There is also pre-mixed non-skid paint from people like Interlux. The non-skid additive will work in most any topside paint. I purchased all of my hardware, lights and electrical components from (wholesalemarine) - they also sell paints!!
@Kaizenusa - I built the console around the gas tank - it's an 11gallon portable. that was the reason the console was a little on the blocky side (for this version).
It took me more than a few weeks but I was working outside so I had weather to contend with. I wish I had tracked the number of hours but I didn't. Overall it took me over a year to complete but I was working a day or two a week and didn't do anything from late December to March.
There is a good chance I'm going to be doing another project boat here in the near future and I bought a video camera so that I could do exactly that. To be honest, the videos I've made about this boat were an afterthought once I'd already done most of the work on it and only had access to a standard digital camera. Keep an eye on UA-cam.
@KAIZENUSA - I kept the hull covered while I was working on it and the rope with a couple poles kept the cover up so water would run off.
Wow, amazing!
why only on one side of the stringers? i put 2 layers of chop strand and 2 layers of 7 1/2 oz on all stringers using marine grade wood, but i dont remember how many plys it is. but i cabosiled the stringers to the hull with epoxy and used polyester to go over the stringers. i can give you a link to see the rebuild if you like.
the mercury was a 50hp, no idea the year because as soon as I pulled it I junked it. It was probably from the early 70s - the boat's a 1973.
@tasmania105 - I may have posted a link to this video on a classic Glasspar forum but I didn't do any big postings. Most of the forums I visited were back when I was looking for ideas to start my project so postings were usually questions etc, rather than info on my project.
Brett - excellent job on the restoration!!! I'm doing the same and I have a couple of questions that were not addressed in earlier posts:
1) what was the ratio of resin to acetone for the sealing of the wood and did you use hardener when sealing? If not why?
2) I see alot of what looks like white caulk before you put the gel coat on.. can you tell me what kind of caulk can go inbetween the resine and gel coat and still get the proper bond?
3) how did you apply the skid additive? mix or spread?
What did you use to attach the wood to the boat's fiberglass hull? did you screw it in?
Great job. I have seen in other comments that you used a lot of lowes lumber & ply. How do you treat the lumber? Do you cover it with fiberglass to protect it? Do you also fiberglass the bow & stern storage units to the hull? I am looking at getting a project boat, so I'm interested to find out how to approach these things.
hello & thanks for watching. I was working very low budget so I had to rely on wood that isnt marine grade. look for dry as possible. i went to a few stores. i pre treat the wood by painting it with resin with about 25 to 30 percent acetone or styrene. then i totally wrapped all the wood in fiberglass cloth. so all the wood has been pre treated then totally encapsulated. the only place ive had issues is where the glass cracked in a couple spots from stress and rough chopp conditions.
all the boxes are glassed to the hull and glassed and screwed to the deck
This is a fantastic piece of work! So impressive that im going to do the same thing with my glasspar, one question though, roughly how much money did you spend total on this restoration?
I think I may have answered you on another comment so excuse me if I'm repeating. Some is pine - the 2x2s and 1x2s are the cheapest stuff available at Lowes. The plywood isn't marine grade but I don't think it's pine - the deck and transom are a finish plywood and I believe it has a fir outer laminate but not positive. I would have loved to have the money to buy marine grade or better yet plastic composite but was working under a seriously tight budget.
What kind of non skid paint did u use? thanks! I'm almost done with my restoration and only have very few things left to do.
hey mate, just wondering if you had more info on how you joined the gunwale and the new part of the gunwale?
looks great by the way, cheers
did you glass both sides of the deck? and what kind of plywood did you use during the rebuild? i'm rebuilding a 25' cc myself
Where can I get HMG? I checked online and couldn't find anything...also where did you get those lights that are in the front of the center console and in the bow. Thanks again!
Did you post this restoration on any online forums? If yes, can you please tell me where?
Bret amazing rebuild. I'm in the process of doing the same. your videos have motivated me big time. I have a question regarding the pvc, is that for running cables? ty
Thank you very much. I did use a couple sections of PVC pipe for running various electrical wires etc. One section through the fish box going up to the bow and another larger one from the console to the stern - both under the deck. Good luck with your project.
how do you like the center console vs. standard as far as driving around the lake? I have a gramps ol 64' lonestar that is in progress... I almost started on the deck today until I saw a center console conversion, now I'm debating.
dam I wish I knew how to rebuild a boat, can you please make a video step by step, like saying what are you using and how to use it, I know im asking to much but I want to learn please
boatworkstoday channel has alot of tips and stuff. I use it regularly for learning things
So is that PVC Piping for running the electrical from the center console to the transom?
How much did this cost you? I'm looking to do the same with a 24ft sea junk sea craft side console inboard.
But not sure if it would just be feasible to buy a shorter pre made center console fair condition out board. Since 24+ footers are well out of my price range.
The build cost around $2500 (not including outboard and trailer). I've wanted to do the same to a bigger boat like a SeaCraft - it would be an awesome project.
Hey mate how long did it take? I'm going to do it to my 5.3 meter runabout, being aluminium and having a boilermaker trade I'm hoping its not going to take me long , a couple of solid weekends I'm hoping .
because your boat and my boat were not built the same way to start with. In the stern of my boat where I had to rebuild the bilge area I did pretty much the same as you (minus the marine ply).
hi man I know it has been a while,but please I am nearly done with me boat and I would like to know if you used gelcoat with or without wax for the froor and everything in white color.thank and merry Christmas
Hey - Merry Christmas to you too. I didn't use any gelcoat for the white - that's just HMG and Bluewater topside paint and it's all rolled.
i wanna do the same thing to my 17ft spectrum aluminium. im putting a 90hp mariner on it.
where are you located, I would love to see how you do this in person, so I can make me a project boat, this boat looks nice nice
brett for the transom do I have to put a sealant i.e putty, 3m 4200, etc. to the hull. if so, what did you use? ty
I've done a couple things. The boat in this video I used liquid nails to bond the wood to the hull, then glassed over it. I had also bonded the 2 sheets of plywood together using liquid nails. The new boat I'm restoring I used resin to bond each layer like the factory did. Hull - layer of mat & resin - plywood sheet - mat & resin - plywood sheet and. Around the edges I mix chop strand mat (tiger hair) and use it to fill any voids and glass in the edges, then I use resin filler (bondo) to fill and round the corner so the cover layer of cloth will transition better - lastly I glassed over with 1708 biaxial.
I’m doing the same thing to an 13’6” 86 Bay liner how did you come up with the design for the center console?
I just looked at a lot of different consoles and then built one around the fuel tank - that was the primary factor in the console width. I started to build it a little taller but after looking at it in the boat cut it down a few inches.
I’m thinking about having a tank built to lay under the console. What do you think?
@@navidave95 - good idea but you can probably find one that will fit, rather than build a custom one.
what kind of wood do you use.. because it looks like pine????
Im thinking about doing the same modifications on a 14 footer....but how do i go about the flat top gunnels all around....how did you go about it
It just a matter of design and fabrication. There's really no other answer because most boats are different. I spent a lot of time staring at it. I probably took the piece off and on the boat 10x as I was working on it
ok in watched this about 20 times bahaha, am currently doing this now on my quarter cab! how did you measure or determine where the centre cab goes? and was there a re-enforcement for that to sit on? or was it just glued in place? cheers love your work
Hello & thanks. It was pretty much just trying to evenly space out the console and seat with room between to stand and room behind to stand and fish. Most of them you see near the middle of the boat (from to back) - the farther back the better the ride but less room to fish. I did add a couple ribs under that part of the deck but I also have a fuel tank inside my console. It's bolted down, I have an access hatch between the console and seat that I can use to get under the deck.
Brett, what did you use to bond the stringers to the hull?
I only had to repair the existing stringers on this project in the back near the transom. They are just fiberglassed to the hull on each side with 1708 biaxial cloth - the same type of heavy cloth I used on the transom and to laminate the gunwales to the hull.
Building a console for my project boat it’s a 16 foot, about what were you’re dimensions of your console I like design that you have also how wide is your boat mine where I intend to put the console is 5.5 feet
I measured everything today - the console is 26" wide and 23" deep about 34" tall. It ended up that width only because of the size of the 12 gallon fuel tank. That pretty much dominated the plans for the console. The boat is around 60" wide at the deck level where the console sits. 24" would have made it so much easier for the windshield.
what year and horsepower is that motor?
Way to save $10,000 NICE JOB!!!!
Thank you. I probably could have bought a boat for the same money I spent but it wouldn't have been exactly what I wanted.
i think i have the same motor but mine is a 1965 500 50 hp mercury
Nice but you forget to install a fuel tank.
how has this boat held up
Overall it's held up great but this year I decided to repair a section of deck under the seat and console. There were a few soft spots around fasteners. I sanded down the rest of the deck and added 2 layers of mat with vinylester resin and used marine grade plywood.
how did you become familiar with fiberglass/boat construction? i just purchased a 22' skiff with a soft floor behind seat to transom but the transom is solid.... its a rolled gunnel boat and i am considering gutting and replacing the entire floor and transom
Hi friend, nice work.
I would like to share this to my friends but they can't see it because youtube is blocked in china.
Do you mind sending me the pictures in the video ?
Thanks no matter this is ok or not.
How long was this boat?
16ft (15ft 10in)
I’ve been watching the utube channel on extending my boat 2-3 feet while I’m still tarring it apart. Just a shell now. What do you thing
K?
@@navidave95 - better really know what you're doing if you try that but it's possible.
i meant the mercury
@KaizenUSA - in general it's called fairing compound. You can buy it (like Bondo) or you can make it yourself that way it's cheaper and you can control consistency. 3M makes a product called 'Glass Bubbles' - it's a fine white powder - you just add it to polyester resin to thicken it and make it spreadable. West Systems also has a similar product. You can use it with wax to make it sand easier.