Always interesting to see the differences across the world. Have a look at "Fischer Dowels" for screwing into brick walls, at least that's what we use here, over in europe. Kinda like a high-tech version of the trimmer wire trick.
I'm from Latam and we use the Fischer Dowels for screws on brick, I was thinking why they weren't using them, but I guess they just don't have them there.
Try using a standard drill driver instead of the impact driver. It is the impact action that causes the concrete material to erode as the screw is driven forward. Without the impact action the material remains intact providing more purchase for the screw. Hope this helps!
Pro tip from an old guy, those wedge nails back in the day were hardened the same head to tip, a misaligned blow often sent shards flying, with liability concerns nowadays I would say the manufactures have tempered the head to remediate that problem. WE HOPE. Stay safe, learn.
Believe it or not but the screws transfer the sound. Big jobs I glue the Sheetrock down with no screws. Screw a few in just to hold it down then remove after the glue drys
Definitely going to use that trimmer line trick. I have always hated using Tapcon screws because no matter how I used them in hollow brick they never held and just figured they were a gimmick. Good tip!
You can definitely hear a big difference, from before you started putting up the insulation and drywall/plywood in the sound quality while you are speaking now in this video. Going to look and sound really awesome when you have it completed!!
That's so funny! I have the same issue with my Husqvarna Automower.. If you're on the lawn while it's out mowing it's ALWAYS trying to mowe exactly where you are.. Where ever and whatever you're doing 😂
I love having plywood walls in my garage it's the best especially when it comes to hanging stuff. Also spraying the wood down with tea tree oil will kill and prevent any mold and mildew growth in the future
I'm getting envious of your fantastic workshop, I really enjoy the progress you are making! I hope to see how you'll tackle the humidity problem. In my experience (and based on what you've shown in your videos), I find the biggest culprit is the land sloping towards your building. Exterior foundation waterproofing membrane, exterior perimeter french drains (at the foundation footing), gutters and sloping the landscape away from the building would take care of a big chunk of the humidity. I would not be surprised if your cinder block issue, as been caused by years of high humidity levels. Again, Great to see your progress and I can't wait to watch the next video segment!!!
When I graduated high school got a job as a framer. First day they had us new guys driving steel cut nails setting walls on concrete. Couldn't open my hand for a whole day. But i was smart enough to wear gloves. The other guys had blisters covering their whole hands. I was also the only one with a 22 oz framing hammer, they had 16 oz finishing hammers, lol. I still hate cut nails.
I usually put OSB or Plywood behind the drywall not the other way around. :) We do it for increased stability and instead for blocking, for light applications. Still put blocking for the heavy stuff.
Love the plywood walls, I do that in every garage and shop that I've built, a lot more durable and versatile than other wall coverings. I feel you on those Tapcons, I have nothing but problems with them, more often than not, I end up breaking the heads off of them. Good tip son the weed whip string, I'll have to try that. A lot going on, but I probably would have put a layer of Kilz on that block before the furring strip. Otherwise, good job, love the channel
if you have romex scraps some stripped copper wire works really well for the tapcons. Its tougher than plastic but still soft enough to conform to the threads.
A tip on anchoring in concrete or cement block when they will not grab the tapcons or screws is to take a piece of electrical wire one, two, or three pieces bend a little l-flagged end so it will stay in place, and place it in the hole of the block or concrete then place your wood 2x4 or whatever and then drive your screws in this will cause grab, you can also use a wood dowel or splinters of wood anything thing that will expand and cause grab. Just a tip from one tradesman to another.
Tapcons can be very finicky and almost never work in concrete blocks or brick like that. I like the string trick :) I ended up just using anchors everywhere in my garage with brick walls. They make them long enough to go through the wood and wall but I just drilled all the holes through the wood, move it and installed the anchors and then went back; it actually only added a couple of minutes per board and the connection felt like it was going straight into a stud.
Cutting drywall with a knife and a tape. Lock the tape off and turn it round so the body of the tape is facing backwards and the tape tab is sticking up. You then have a solid guide on the top- the body of the tape and the bottom, you can grip the tape tab and the knife easily.
Mold likes hardwood (especially maple) better than softwood for the same reason we drink maple syrup, not pine syrup - the sugars in the hardwood sap, and the terpenes in the pine sap.
LOVE this series! Cannot wait to see more! I have had the same issue with the tap cons in my 1930's house. The cinder blocks are so porous that it wont accept any tapcon that I have tried to use. I ended up having to use an anchor type plug to be able to fasten anything to my wall.
Great series and attitude facing such a tremendous task. Thanks for sharing the details so far. I'll be moving soon, and your example will definitely help me. Cheers-
I really hope you've started renovating the outside with regards to water intrusion, otherwise, all that wood is gonna rot and be covered in mold, in no time.
Likely more about dirt work for drainage than any changes to structure. It’s just a block unit outside at ground level? Second floor is all weird old plywood, barn style.
@@FearsomeWarrior entire 1st floor level is half-underground in the back, as shown in some of the first videos. He really needs a complete french drain system around it. Shouldn't take more than few days with a small excavator though..
Green glue works great but I've found that any type of caulking does quite a bit. Even more if you caulk all the joints. Even better is hat channel, that's what they use in lots of hotels
I have had a similar issue with my garage which is built with cinderblock and was made in 1940. For some reason concrete screws just don’t go in that well. They just spin around in the hole. I have found that tapcons weren’t working that well, but “Power Pro” screws worked better. You can get these screws I know at lowes and they seem to work really good for me.
@@remodz6385 I was about to say, i find that terracotta block breaks out bad with battery drills, and discovered that using the next size down bit, typically just 1/16th inch step down will give enough meat for the tapcon to grab. Would probably have worked here too.
As a European it's so weird to see Americans use an impact driver for everything lol. Those are the niche one here, with powered drills being the default. In the US/Canada it seems to be the opposite.
One time I bought a box of tap-cons and the drill bit that came with was a size too big, as per their own recommendations. Anyways, loving the shop series!
Not sure if you were or not. But when hanging furring strips I always go into the mortar line not the block itself. I did a ton in my old house I redid the drywall in and ended up switching. to cut nails from tapcons for the same reason
Green (acoustic) rockwool in the wall cavities will make a bigger difference than just Sheetrock behind the plywood. Also, half inch Sheetrock is far quieter than 3/8 due to a difference in composition. If you really want to go whole hog, add a layer of mass loaded vinyl against the studs to mechanically isolate the sheeting. Shop is coming along though - very envious of all that space!
My guess with the tapcons is it’s cinderblock, not concrete block. That’s been my issue in my house, and to fix it I just grind down the nubs on the masonry drill bit so it drills a slightly smaller diameter hole.
"This Thing finds me, wherever im at the shop"... They ALWAYS do. I've already lost 2 Vac-Robots due to the same movement you did... bend the Axis... well-deserved punishment^^
Bro can’t wait to see all the neat stuff you can start making when you’re all done! But as we all know, we’re never actually done with shop projects, haha
As the old Tradesmen slogan goes, Paint, Spackle, and chalk hide a multitude of sins. If Paint, spackle, and chalk don't hide it you've royally screwed the pouch.
Americans really don't seem to like plastic or metal anchor plugs...?! There are so many variations, even for hollow or not-so-dense bricks. But, the string line workaround was an interesting one to see.. and Eric wacking in the metal stakes was a sight to behold of...
Yup, I wouldn’t have done it if I didn’t have a bunch of material I’d salvaged from the old shop. Crazy expensive. This 1/2” BCX plywood was $45 a sheet 😩
Can someone explain why the wedged nail holds so well? I've seen them also for fence gate latches and never understood why that would hold. Wouldn't they just fall out?
The hammer drill is blowig out the inside of the old block. You could try drilling without the hammer drill. Just a regular drill. It will work better.
when i need to do something my roomba just HAS to sweep right where i am at that moment.. it will come in from another room and sweep in front of the door i need to be in and out of without fail
Catch up on the workshop renovation here : bit.ly/workshoprenovation // 👕Check out some Crafted plans and merch : craftedworkshop.com/store
The roomba will remember that kick.
Always interesting to see the differences across the world. Have a look at "Fischer Dowels" for screwing into brick walls, at least that's what we use here, over in europe. Kinda like a high-tech version of the trimmer wire trick.
I'm from Latam and we use the Fischer Dowels for screws on brick, I was thinking why they weren't using them, but I guess they just don't have them there.
They probably do have them since dowels are pretty well known and used and im from Canada(same environment as US)
2:07 Remember that when the robot overlords are mad at you 🤣
Kicking the poor little vacuum robot when all it wants to do is be near you because it loves you?!?!?! How dead inside are you?!
The only upside to these sad scammers is I have found some cool channels when they change the name and icon to a new fake.
Try using a standard drill driver instead of the impact driver. It is the impact action that causes the concrete material to erode as the screw is driven forward. Without the impact action the material remains intact providing more purchase for the screw. Hope this helps!
I love your guys friendship. And the way you guys work together. Good work!
I really enjoy your videos and the Perkins Crew's as well. cool to see yall working together.
Those plywood walls going up has has got me extra excited to see how this series turns out! Keep up the great content!
I found out about the Perkins Crew through your channel and I'm glad that I did. Such a fun crew to watch. Cheers from Asheville/Woodfin.
A piece of tie wire works just as well if you don't have any string line, but as a sparky I just use scrap offcuts of wire, works a charm!
Pro tip from an old guy, those wedge nails back in the day were hardened the same head to tip, a misaligned blow often sent shards flying, with liability concerns nowadays I would say the manufactures have tempered the head to remediate that problem. WE HOPE. Stay safe, learn.
Believe it or not but the screws transfer the sound. Big jobs I glue the Sheetrock down with no screws. Screw a few in just to hold it down then remove after the glue drys
Definitely going to use that trimmer line trick. I have always hated using Tapcon screws because no matter how I used them in hollow brick they never held and just figured they were a gimmick. Good tip!
You can definitely hear a big difference, from before you started putting up the insulation and drywall/plywood in the sound quality while you are speaking now in this video. Going to look and sound really awesome when you have it completed!!
Looking real good.
That's so funny!
I have the same issue with my Husqvarna Automower.. If you're on the lawn while it's out mowing it's ALWAYS trying to mowe exactly where you are.. Where ever and whatever you're doing 😂
Renovation Johnny and mountain bike Johnny (via Singletrack Sampler) content on the same day. Wuhoo!
There is a load extender you can get for your truck that mounts in your receiver I use one and it works great
I love having plywood walls in my garage it's the best especially when it comes to hanging stuff. Also spraying the wood down with tea tree oil will kill and prevent any mold and mildew growth in the future
I'm getting envious of your fantastic workshop, I really enjoy the progress you are making! I hope to see how you'll tackle the humidity problem. In my experience (and based on what you've shown in your videos), I find the biggest culprit is the land sloping towards your building. Exterior foundation waterproofing membrane, exterior perimeter french drains (at the foundation footing), gutters and sloping the landscape away from the building would take care of a big chunk of the humidity. I would not be surprised if your cinder block issue, as been caused by years of high humidity levels. Again, Great to see your progress and I can't wait to watch the next video segment!!!
When I graduated high school got a job as a framer. First day they had us new guys driving steel cut nails setting walls on concrete. Couldn't open my hand for a whole day. But i was smart enough to wear gloves. The other guys had blisters covering their whole hands. I was also the only one with a 22 oz framing hammer, they had 16 oz finishing hammers, lol. I still hate cut nails.
I usually put OSB or Plywood behind the drywall not the other way around. :) We do it for increased stability and instead for blocking, for light applications. Still put blocking for the heavy stuff.
Love the plywood walls, I do that in every garage and shop that I've built, a lot more durable and versatile than other wall coverings. I feel you on those Tapcons, I have nothing but problems with them, more often than not, I end up breaking the heads off of them. Good tip son the weed whip string, I'll have to try that. A lot going on, but I probably would have put a layer of Kilz on that block before the furring strip. Otherwise, good job, love the channel
If you’re looking to attenuate sound you should also try and air seal those room as best as you can. Any free air movement is going to transmit sound.
loving this series man! keep up the excellent work!
if you have romex scraps some stripped copper wire works really well for the tapcons. Its tougher than plastic but still soft enough to conform to the threads.
A tip on anchoring in concrete or cement block when they will not grab the tapcons or screws is to take a piece of electrical wire one, two, or three pieces bend a little l-flagged end so it will stay in place, and place it in the hole of the block or concrete then place your wood 2x4 or whatever and then drive your screws in this will cause grab, you can also use a wood dowel or splinters of wood anything thing that will expand and cause grab. Just a tip from one tradesman to another.
Zip ties also work nice in concrete block when the screw is loose
When Perk' doesn't release a video the official channel, seeing them on Johnnys channel is also dope.
We electricians use thin metal tie wire in the hole with the Tapcons, works great.
The shop is really starting to take shape! Good job
Looking good!!
Coming along nicely Johnny! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Tapcons can be very finicky and almost never work in concrete blocks or brick like that. I like the string trick :) I ended up just using anchors everywhere in my garage with brick walls. They make them long enough to go through the wood and wall but I just drilled all the holes through the wood, move it and installed the anchors and then went back; it actually only added a couple of minutes per board and the connection felt like it was going straight into a stud.
6:22 Sound transfers through every crack. So you really need to seal the bottom gab with something to make it air tight
Cutting drywall with a knife and a tape. Lock the tape off and turn it round so the body of the tape is facing backwards and the tape tab is sticking up. You then have a solid guide on the top- the body of the tape and the bottom, you can grip the tape tab and the knife easily.
Mold likes hardwood (especially maple) better than softwood for the same reason we drink maple syrup, not pine syrup - the sugars in the hardwood sap, and the terpenes in the pine sap.
Looking good buddy 👌
LOVE this series! Cannot wait to see more! I have had the same issue with the tap cons in my 1930's house. The cinder blocks are so porous that it wont accept any tapcon that I have tried to use. I ended up having to use an anchor type plug to be able to fasten anything to my wall.
Great series and attitude facing such a tremendous task. Thanks for sharing the details so far. I'll be moving soon, and your example will definitely help me. Cheers-
Brilliant work, Johnny! Nicely done! 😃
It's looking fantastic there already!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for sharing
Looking great and huge shop
Bailing wire is what I was taught to use with tapcons, same result, guess I'll throw trimmer string in the truck too
Also fill your block walls up with concrete, the water flows right through empty block walls
I really hope you've started renovating the outside with regards to water intrusion, otherwise, all that wood is gonna rot and be covered in mold, in no time.
Yeah, I am really interested in if there is additional mitigation happening out there.
Likely more about dirt work for drainage than any changes to structure. It’s just a block unit outside at ground level? Second floor is all weird old plywood, barn style.
@@FearsomeWarrior entire 1st floor level is half-underground in the back, as shown in some of the first videos. He really needs a complete french drain system around it. Shouldn't take more than few days with a small excavator though..
Well done!
Use a regular driver vs impact driver, it breaks that small amount of thread contact. Awesome shop man!
Green glue works great but I've found that any type of caulking does quite a bit. Even more if you caulk all the joints. Even better is hat channel, that's what they use in lots of hotels
I have had a similar issue with my garage which is built with cinderblock and was made in 1940. For some reason concrete screws just don’t go in that well. They just spin around in the hole. I have found that tapcons weren’t working that well, but “Power Pro” screws worked better. You can
get these screws I know at lowes and they seem to work really good for me.
I’ve heard that when installing tap-cons in block it’s best to drive them with a drill rather than an impact driver.
Correct. Also, when screwing into older blocking like this, you can drill the holes a size smaller OR drill them with the hammer drill function off.
@@remodz6385 I was about to say, i find that terracotta block breaks out bad with battery drills, and discovered that using the next size down bit, typically just 1/16th inch step down will give enough meat for the tapcon to grab. Would probably have worked here too.
As a European it's so weird to see Americans use an impact driver for everything lol. Those are the niche one here, with powered drills being the default. In the US/Canada it seems to be the opposite.
It's also better to screw into the mortar than the bricks. Don't recommend screwing into the bricks unless you really have to.
@@simplyengineering2350 . . .So right, the mortar is denser with more sand per sq inch them the air filled block.
One time I bought a box of tap-cons and the drill bit that came with was a size too big, as per their own recommendations. Anyways, loving the shop series!
You can use tie wire too if thats what you have on hand for you tapcon issue
really wish myself and most viewers had your million dollar budget
Loving the series
idk why, but i never quite warmed up to tap cons. i always use wall anchors.
Not sure if you were or not. But when hanging furring strips I always go into the mortar line not the block itself. I did a ton in my old house I redid the drywall in and ended up switching. to cut nails from tapcons for the same reason
Green (acoustic) rockwool in the wall cavities will make a bigger difference than just Sheetrock behind the plywood. Also, half inch Sheetrock is far quieter than 3/8 due to a difference in composition. If you really want to go whole hog, add a layer of mass loaded vinyl against the studs to mechanically isolate the sheeting.
Shop is coming along though - very envious of all that space!
And the sheetrock on the OUTSIDE. It´s less dense and doesn´t pick up (and transfer) sound as much
My guess with the tapcons is it’s cinderblock, not concrete block. That’s been my issue in my house, and to fix it I just grind down the nubs on the masonry drill bit so it drills a slightly smaller diameter hole.
I like the Finnegan shirt!
"This Thing finds me, wherever im at the shop"... They ALWAYS do. I've already lost 2 Vac-Robots due to the same movement you did... bend the Axis... well-deserved punishment^^
Please more an longer videos 😉
When drilling for screw installations into block walls, be mindful of blowout by using a just non-impact drill.
2:07 careful man, that's how the Matrix started. Haven't you seen The Second Renaissance?
Bro can’t wait to see all the neat stuff you can start making when you’re all done! But as we all know, we’re never actually done with shop projects, haha
Very true, hah!
Excelente trabajo 👊 💯
This is so entertaining even though I will never do this 🤣
Copper wire works well for stripped tapcons
not easy to make it perfect ... and look at that!!! It did work out ... HELLO PBB!
As the old Tradesmen slogan goes, Paint, Spackle, and chalk hide a multitude of sins. If Paint, spackle, and chalk don't hide it you've royally screwed the pouch.
Some cinder block will not take screws you have to go to tongle bolts
Americans really don't seem to like plastic or metal anchor plugs...?! There are so many variations, even for hollow or not-so-dense bricks. But, the string line workaround was an interesting one to see.. and Eric wacking in the metal stakes was a sight to behold of...
SDS drill blows out the backside of the drill hole in the hollow block. Use a high speed hammer drill.
Really like your channel!! Thanks for making videos for us all!!
I want to do plywood walls in my shop when its built but right now 3/4 in ply is about $80 a sheet in my town.
Yup, I wouldn’t have done it if I didn’t have a bunch of material I’d salvaged from the old shop. Crazy expensive. This 1/2” BCX plywood was $45 a sheet 😩
Content!
For the concrete blocks next time, try just nail spikes and wire! Thick nails, and thick wire. It creates a wedge. Won’t pull out.
Doh. Then I keep watching and realize you’re doing nails lol.
Instead of trimmer line, I have used mechanic's wire for the same purpose.
Just for interest: No vapour barrier needed? Nice Job!
No, the shopping at hardware stores in the mean time is just showing off.... including the "screw gun, SSd drill.......
Any update on the humidity issue?
Why did you use plywood for the walls instead of drywall?
What does the purple on the drywall indicate? Some kind of moisture resistance?
Bro you brutalized that poor roomba 😂
Are those cinder block wall filled with concrete or left hollow?
Would the plywood walls work or be recommended for a basement refinish?
Be nice to that robot! It will one day be our AI overlord and master!
Can someone explain why the wedged nail holds so well? I've seen them also for fence gate latches and never understood why that would hold. Wouldn't they just fall out?
The hammer drill is blowig out the inside of the old block. You could try drilling without the hammer drill. Just a regular drill. It will work better.
No riding Fire Mountain this day? 😂
when i need to do something my roomba just HAS to sweep right where i am at that moment.. it will come in from another room and sweep in front of the door i need to be in and out of without fail
Serious question. How do the cut nails not pull free from the cinder block. Especially in a wedge shape where the fat end is?
No clue, I was wondering the same thing! Guessing the friction is enough to keep them in place.
How do you pass a fire and safety inspection with plywood walls I don't understand why your city will allow it 🤔
Violence against robots! Skynet wants a word... ;-)
with a solid wall, plastic dowels are used
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Is there supposed to be no sound on this as I can't get sound?
Easier to use a 3# short handle sledge to install the wedge nails
Can you say how much the labor costs were?
Wall plugs