The real issue is resistor marked with an 821 above the fuel gauge. Poor solder joints and the flexing of the board connects and disconnects it connections. Disassemble the cluster and re-solder its joints. I have done a couple now and worked every time.
I recently got a F150 2007 the light will not go off, fluid was ok, parking switch ok. I researched an Yourtube video where they show a connector behind the instruments panel, that when you push it back or forth the light goes off! Apparently this seems to be a issue with older trucks, where the instruments surface mounts components loose connection. I resolder the connector and the surface mount resistors right under and that fix my issue. you need to remove the Iddels to acces circuit board to resorer. Need a 7 min socket, T15 Torxs, Solder Station Fine tip, Solder and Super Glue to complete repair approximately time is 1 hr.tops
I had the exact same problem. I watched this video and decided to just take my fist and give it a little bump at the top right where that connection was. It went out hasn't been back on. Turns out the clearance between the cover and that connection is so small that you can press in on it with just a bump of your fist.
It's not just the stupid light, it's the aural warning. I bought new a 2013 F-150 and it did this right off the lot, and it's been doing it off and on for 7+ years. The difference is in the 2013, the dash goes over the instrument cluster and it's not so easy to get at. So, whatta we do? Push the connector over and stuff well chewed bubble gum in there to hold it away from the instrument cluster?
Great video!! What did you do or how to replace emergency brake sensor? My EM brake warning light says still engaged but it’s not. Need to know how to replace before I get cheated if I can do it myself. Thanks
Sharing a fix... or a shortcut maybe. Vehicle was 2004 E250. Same issue, wiggle the plug, brake light goes out. I took the dash apart (much harder than the truck because it goes the whole way across and you need to pull the radio and the lighter socket cables). The issue seems to be within the plug itself. Wiggling just the wires gave no change. The fix: I put a sliver of paper in the end of the socket to reduce play. I then tied a cord to the bundled wires and dropped it down the back so it dangled under the dash. If the light comes on again I can pull the cord and seat the socket. I don't know what is causing the problem, but it seems if you replace the instrument cluster you could still have the same issue. I am not confident there is a long term fix. This should have been a recall matter. In my state a vehicle will not pass inspection with that light on. In that case it affects vehicle operation. But what are you going to do. I hope this helps someone.
@@kinseya7217 ~ I ended up having to solder the resistor. It was easy enough. One thing. Establish which end of the resistor is loose and solder it first or the resistor will float off its contacts. It was a bear to get back into place.
Thank you for sharing Jason. Somewhat off topic however I was curious if you have ever come acorss customer complaints referencing heat generating from under the steering wheel and or area behind the plastic panel you removed in the video. 2009 F-150 with 5.4....heat feels about like the heat you would feel coming from the vents if heater was on.
Good deal! I have not run into that issue but I have seen in other vehicles that the ac mixing flap servomotors fail and default on the “heat”setting. This can occur if there is a dual temperature feature in the vehicle. Secondly I would check to make sure the steering shaft boot is sealed correctly on the firewall. Hope this helps your diagnosis. Please share what you find in the comments for anyone else with your same issue, thanks!
Jason Burns I will certainly look into those suggestions. Will follow back up when I get back under there to check things out. Thanks for replying and for sharing the knowledge so others can learn.
Could you please do a video on no start no crank issues my solenoid wire shows no power, but yet everything checks out any advice is welcome, especially from a professional or someone who has gone through it. Thanks.
Good video... had the emergency brake warning light on.. for awhile now.. made appointment to take into garage to fix.. watched the video and went over to friends garage.. live in Minnesota.. my garage not heated good friends is.. did just what you showed warning light off... celebration.. not so fast.. later in day running errands.. and the pesky comes back on.... so am keeping appointment at garage this morning.. ..they will probably do same thing.. and so it goes.. peace..
I found the switch under the dash that the parking brake strikes when was not being shut off by the parking brake. Replaced the switch. Still have the problem periodically. Now have added small glue on tab to top of the brake pad under the dash. Works well.
2007 Ford F-150 XLT Extended Cab/Super Cab model... 💯 EXACTLY the problem! BIG THANK YOU for posting.... I've just did the same as, currently... Maybe, have to sorter a bit on the back, tho'🙄 depending if it continues 🫵🫰💪🫡🤗🥰😎😎🤙
Hello My problem is with the actual brake lights coming on intermittently which keeps draining my battery Can you please help? I already changed the brake switch twice! Thanks
My brake light come on sporadically, I've learned that the emergency brake switch is loose, so I just pulled up on the ebrake pedal and pulled the ebrake at the same time and the light goes out
I have a 2014 F 150 and my parking brake warning stays in after I release the brake. I think the cable is adjustable but can’t figure out how to release the fitting from the cable coming from the handle
Thanks , I had that same issue on my 60 f150. Also any ideas on a flashing 4x4 light. Its not the transfer case motor as I have swapped it. Resets when I unhook the battery overnight. Any ideas.
These instrument clusters have a slough of surface mount resistors that have cold or deteriorated solder joints. That’s where I fixed 2 issues, Park Break light and Cargo/Dome light. Not even 92.4 % sure on your issue. God speed friend, hope you fine an answer to your 4x4 light issue.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. My 04 expedition started doing this shortly after I replaced the stock stereo system (broken). I must have bumped it when I was doing it. I will check this out here soon.
Hey bro, good video!!! Question; how do you fix a 2010 Ford F150 brake lights plus, reverse lights , left or right indicator light that doesn't coming on when you turn the switch or power up the the truck? I got pulled over so many times to turn my switch on, but only the cab lights come on... Any advice or ideas?
Kat O Good deal! Unless you happen to be skilled at re-soldering circuit boards, you will have to replace the instrument cluster itself to fully correct the problem. Hope this helps! Good luck!
Take a normal sized envelope, fold it from one end about 1 to 1 1/4 inch and then keep folding it over till you reach the end. It should be folded so that when you squeeze it together, then let go, it starts to expand. Don't mash it or fold it too tight. You then refold it as before. Then YOU WEDGE ENVELOPE BETWEEN THE BACK OF INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. Reassemble panels and drive. Saved big $$..still works today...Mine is an '04 4X4 XLT w/180,000...cheap and ez fix.
What about a 03 buick lasabor custom the e brake is on the floor and the brake is all the way up and brakes are working great but the brake is still on and when in drive it dings like crazy what can I do to fix the problem
Hey Kenny sorry for such a late comment! I would look into your clockspring, it’s the link between your buttons on the steering wheel and the column itself. When you take the steering wheel off you can access it easily.
Got it a question this problem can drain my battery a soon notice that light was on brake light is been a week a go and next day is hard to start, ,,only the first time later star normal
chepa424 if I understand you correctly you may be seeing the results of an alternator going out causing several different lights to illuminate. Check to make sure you have sufficient charging.
Most likely the cluster issue or your parking brake pedal is slightly depressed (could be that sensor as well), let us all know what you end up finding!
@@nosajburns did this issue make the brake lights stay on?? My brake lights are staying on in my expedition..ive checked and changed multiple brake switches which lead me to believe it has to have some kind of bad ground or wiring somewhere...any thoughts??
I have wedged a piece of cable between the plastic frame and the harness plug to push it snag against the circuit board. Problem solved! Good luck to you all. That was a fucking annoying shit. “Ford- build for tough” 😎 or smart lol
I addressed this with an earlier comment as well to Jim S. The proper repair is to get the cluster re soldered or replaced. Just wedge a piece of cardboard between the connector and housing for a temporary fix. Thanks for the question, I could have addressed that more in depth for sure!
Jim Stafford -the proper repair is to re-solder or replace the instrument cluster entirely. This repair is a fix for those who are not able to solder or purchase an entire cluster. This customer did not want to spend the money on the labor nor the part.
The real issue is resistor marked with an 821 above the fuel gauge. Poor solder joints and the flexing of the board connects and disconnects it connections. Disassemble the cluster and re-solder its joints. I have done a couple now and worked every time.
This will help so many people! Thank you for sharing!!
I recently got a F150 2007
the light will not go off, fluid was ok, parking switch ok.
I researched an Yourtube video where they show a connector behind the instruments panel, that when you push it back or forth the light goes off! Apparently this seems to be a issue with older trucks, where the instruments surface mounts components loose connection.
I resolder the connector and the surface mount resistors right under and that fix my issue.
you need to remove the Iddels to acces circuit board to resorer.
Need a 7 min socket, T15 Torxs, Solder Station Fine tip, Solder and Super Glue to complete repair
approximately time is 1 hr.tops
Calvin roos good deal! This will help so many people!
Thanks Jason! Your video helped me find the source of my break light problem. I ended up soldering the 821 connection and that did the trick.
Man I've been looking for this for a while. VERY helpful. Thanks
I had the exact same problem. I watched this video and decided to just take my fist and give it a little bump at the top right where that connection was. It went out hasn't been back on. Turns out the clearance between the cover and that connection is so small that you can press in on it with just a bump of your fist.
You’re the goat! Fist bump worked for me
Thanks, Jason! I'm caravanning on a 3-day road trip and did not need another headache... Will fix at my next destination.
It's not just the stupid light, it's the aural warning. I bought new a 2013 F-150 and it did this right off the lot, and it's been doing it off and on for 7+ years. The difference is in the 2013, the dash goes over the instrument cluster and it's not so easy to get at.
So, whatta we do? Push the connector over and stuff well chewed bubble gum in there to hold it away from the instrument cluster?
Great video!! What did you do or how to replace emergency brake sensor? My EM brake warning light says still engaged but it’s not. Need to know how to replace before I get cheated if I can do it myself. Thanks
Sharing a fix... or a shortcut maybe. Vehicle was 2004 E250. Same issue, wiggle the plug, brake light goes out. I took the dash apart (much harder than the truck because it goes the whole way across and you need to pull the radio and the lighter socket cables). The issue seems to be within the plug itself. Wiggling just the wires gave no change.
The fix: I put a sliver of paper in the end of the socket to reduce play. I then tied a cord to the bundled wires and dropped it down the back so it dangled under the dash. If the light comes on again I can pull the cord and seat the socket.
I don't know what is causing the problem, but it seems if you replace the instrument cluster you could still have the same issue. I am not confident there is a long term fix.
This should have been a recall matter. In my state a vehicle will not pass inspection with that light on. In that case it affects vehicle operation. But what are you going to do.
I hope this helps someone.
Gonna try this early am tomorrow.
@@kinseya7217 ~ I ended up having to solder the resistor. It was easy enough. One thing. Establish which end of the resistor is loose and solder it first or the resistor will float off its contacts. It was a bear to get back into place.
Thank you for sharing Jason. Somewhat off topic however I was curious if you have ever come acorss customer complaints referencing heat generating from under the steering wheel and or area behind the plastic panel you removed in the video. 2009 F-150 with 5.4....heat feels about like the heat you would feel coming from the vents if heater was on.
Good deal! I have not run into that issue but I have seen in other vehicles that the ac mixing flap servomotors fail and default on the “heat”setting. This can occur if there is a dual temperature feature in the vehicle. Secondly I would check to make sure the steering shaft boot is sealed correctly on the firewall. Hope this helps your diagnosis. Please share what you find in the comments for anyone else with your same issue, thanks!
Jason Burns I will certainly look into those suggestions. Will follow back up when I get back under there to check things out. Thanks for replying and for sharing the knowledge so others can learn.
Could you please do a video on no start no crank issues my solenoid wire shows no power, but yet everything checks out any advice is welcome, especially from a professional or someone who has gone through it. Thanks.
Good video... had the emergency brake warning light on.. for awhile now.. made appointment to take into garage to fix.. watched the video and went over to friends garage.. live in Minnesota.. my garage not heated good friends is.. did just what you showed warning light off... celebration.. not so fast.. later in day running errands.. and the pesky comes back on.... so am keeping appointment at garage this morning.. ..they will probably do same thing.. and so it goes.. peace..
Thanks alot , I like honest and to the point, you got yourself a like
I found the switch under the dash that the parking brake strikes when was not being shut off by the parking brake. Replaced the switch. Still have the problem periodically. Now have added small glue on tab to top of the brake pad under the dash. Works well.
2008 f150 same problem I have the skills not the equipment so I will have to get me some equipment too repair it thanks for the heads up
Thank you, going to try this tomorrow I’ll let you know
Thanks for the video. Working on this problem now!
2007 Ford F-150 XLT Extended Cab/Super Cab model... 💯 EXACTLY the problem!
BIG THANK YOU for posting.... I've just did the same as, currently... Maybe, have to sorter a bit on the back, tho'🙄 depending if it continues 🫵🫰💪🫡🤗🥰😎😎🤙
Thank you, couldn’t figure it out until I seen your video.
Very helpful! Thank you!
What’s up bro? Nice vid! Ford 2004, E 150
My parking brake light flashes on and off when I’m towing my trailer any thoughts? Thank you
For the issue I posted about it could be the loose circuit board, make sure to inspect your brake light switch. Let us know what you find!
Hello
My problem is with the actual brake lights coming on intermittently which keeps draining my battery
Can you please help?
I already changed the brake switch twice!
Thanks
My brake light come on sporadically, I've learned that the emergency brake switch is loose, so I just pulled up on the ebrake pedal and pulled the ebrake at the same time and the light goes out
And I owe you a huge thank you for that reply. It saved me all kinds of time and worked like a charm. Cheers..!
I have a 2014 F 150 and my parking brake warning stays in after I release the brake. I think the cable is adjustable but can’t figure out how to release the fitting from the cable coming from the handle
Thanks , I had that same issue on my 60 f150. Also any ideas on a flashing 4x4 light. Its not the transfer case motor as I have swapped it. Resets when I unhook the battery overnight. Any ideas.
These instrument clusters have a slough of surface mount resistors that have cold or deteriorated solder joints. That’s where I fixed 2 issues, Park Break light and Cargo/Dome light. Not even 92.4 % sure on your issue. God speed friend, hope you fine an answer to your 4x4 light issue.
Im soldering mine next weekend…what could go wrong?
Thanks for the video, very helpful. My 04 expedition started doing this shortly after I replaced the stock stereo system (broken). I must have bumped it when I was doing it. I will check this out here soon.
Thank you man I was breaking my head on that now it is fix I just push it hard and never came back thank u for the tip
Hey bro, good video!!!
Question; how do you fix a 2010 Ford F150 brake lights plus, reverse lights , left or right indicator light that doesn't coming on when you turn the switch or power up the the truck?
I got pulled over so many times to turn my switch on, but only the cab lights come on...
Any advice or ideas?
What about an ABS light ? I have a 2005 STX 4.6 4x4
Thanks having the same issue. Haven’t torn into it yet.
Will this apply to a 2013 f150?
Where is the two sensors located you said one in the Break fluid reservoir in the other on emergency brake where approximately on emergency brake
It's why I search for!! I will give it a try tomorrow 👍
So it's just annoying,won't hurt anything ? My 05 is doing exactly that.Thanks.
How about taking off the rear anti lock break
Thank you... this was helpful confirming that this was my problem.
Thanks for the heads up, I have this problem now and will be working on it this weekend 👍
Fixes the light but does it really fix the problem?
yes, this light has been driving me crazy
Thank you, I had the same problem and it fixed it. But how do i fix the problem so it does not come back.
Kat O Good deal! Unless you happen to be skilled at re-soldering circuit boards, you will have to replace the instrument cluster itself to fully correct the problem. Hope this helps! Good luck!
Take a normal sized envelope, fold it from one end about 1 to 1 1/4 inch and then keep folding it over till you reach the end. It should be folded so that when you squeeze it together, then let go, it starts to expand. Don't mash it or fold it too tight. You then refold it as before. Then YOU WEDGE ENVELOPE BETWEEN THE BACK OF INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. Reassemble panels and drive. Saved big $$..still works today...Mine is an '04 4X4 XLT w/180,000...cheap and ez fix.
@@keithbassett4988 A picture may be helpful
What about a 03 buick lasabor custom the e brake is on the floor and the brake is all the way up and brakes are working great but the brake is still on and when in drive it dings like crazy what can I do to fix the problem
It's a solid light
I already pushed it and back and forward and the light still there and not even blink what’s next step if any you guys know thanks
I'll try this on my next day off
Hey I'm have a f150 2012 ebreak light on 24/7 how I'm turning off?
I will try this fix first!
Excellent, thank you!!!
Great info brother
I was the 100k liker!!
I have a f-150 2006 and the cruise control and horn is inop but when I lock my truck with the keyless the horn sounds and the fuse is good
Hey Kenny sorry for such a late comment! I would look into your clockspring, it’s the link between your buttons on the steering wheel and the column itself. When you take the steering wheel off you can access it easily.
Brake light is on as well as cruise control not working. Does that harness control both?
If your brake light is on the ECU will not allow the cruise control to operate
I will try it thank e
Thx for tip, will try
Thanks for the video,
My emergency brake will not release on f150 2012i did my break the other day
A peice of hard sponge rubber may help hold the harness plug in the right place if you don't want to take it all apart.
Thank you very helpful 👍👍👍😎
Thank You
I have same problems thanks I try now
Got it a question this problem can drain my battery a soon notice that light was on brake light is been a week a go and next day is hard to start, ,,only the first time later star normal
chepa424 if I understand you correctly you may be seeing the results of an alternator going out causing several different lights to illuminate. Check to make sure you have sufficient charging.
My brake light is on, but the cruise control works. Does that mean it's an actual brake issue?
Most likely the cluster issue or your parking brake pedal is slightly depressed (could be that sensor as well), let us all know what you end up finding!
any has the same problem with crown Victoria
just hitt left side od dashboard using your left hand will go
It was helpful
Awesome!!
On a 1987 Ford trk
you cant just replace it, has to be programmed....or truck wont start,,,,
Ty
Nice vid
Thanks! Hope it helped!
@@nosajburns did this issue make the brake lights stay on?? My brake lights are staying on in my expedition..ive checked and changed multiple brake switches which lead me to believe it has to have some kind of bad ground or wiring somewhere...any thoughts??
I would check your socket housings on each tail lamp assembly, many times they become burnt and short.
On a 1987 Ford
Hell yeah
My airbag light came in when I press down the harness lol
I have wedged a piece of cable between the plastic frame and the harness plug to push it snag against the circuit board. Problem solved! Good luck to you all. That was a fucking annoying shit. “Ford- build for tough” 😎 or smart lol
This doesn't fix anything. The light comes back on.
I addressed this with an earlier comment as well to Jim S. The proper repair is to get the cluster re soldered or replaced. Just wedge a piece of cardboard between the connector and housing for a temporary fix. Thanks for the question, I could have addressed that more in depth for sure!
👍
But you didn't fix it ???
Jim Stafford -the proper repair is to re-solder or replace the instrument cluster entirely. This repair is a fix for those who are not able to solder or purchase an entire cluster. This customer did not want to spend the money on the labor nor the part.
That didn't fix it. It just showed where the problem was.
Raymond Junk you may have a different issue. Let is all know what you find! It could help someone with your same issue.
INCREDIBLE
Hi ma'am