When you read amps with the multimeter you were shorting the power supply across the meter, to check current the leads need to go in series with the load.
actually, the best way to read current is with an amp clamp across one of the leads plugged into a true RMS meter....but I didn't wanna be too critical.....He aint workin on my mammas EKG, so screw it!
And you have to change lead on the multimeter so the reading was faulty too. But nice plating ;) From what I know current is more important for plating, you have to set it regarding to the surface to plate. Voltage is only the way to have desired current.
@@plextoob Yes he did it wrong. Shorting across the load like this will typically burn out the fuse in the ammeter making that function of the meter no longer usable until the fuse is replaced. The way it works when you put the meter in series is by a shunt resistor of very low and precise ohms. The very small voltage drop across the shunt is measured by an op amp which amplifies the small voltage drop allowing the meter to measure the current. The same method should be used for high accuracy at higher current, using a shunt resistor and measuring the voltage drop. It's always a good idea to have a pretty good ball park idea of the current that is flowing so that you don't exceed the rating of your fuse. For quick check you can use a clamp meter. They are less accurate, but are inherently safer since no wires need to be exposed. As such they are generally useful when dealing with high current or high voltage applications where an exact measurement is not required. One major disadvantage of the clamp meters is they only work when around a single wire, and so do not work when clamped over for example an extension cord, which has current flowing both directions, thus will measure as zero current.
Nice job RK. When I was 16 I worked in a plating factory. There were these baths there that were about 5ftx7ftx20ft. On the edges were baskets that held the nickel pellets. They gave me a box of pellets that weighed about 60lbs and told me to walk out on the edge of the baths (about 7 inches wide) and fill up the baskets. I nearly lost my balance and fell in. The guy instructing me says "FFS don't fall in there, you;ll be dead before you hit the bottom. It would be interesting to weigh and measure with a micrometer something perfectly round, before and after plating. cheers.
I just did three weeks worth of Nickel plating every fastener on a big heavy 1500lb Surface grinder restoration from 1946 - Hundreds of bolts, nuts. screws, etc - you stuff comes out real dark and black looking which usually means your running the volts or amps too high, and it's "Burning" - theres formulas for calculating your surface area, but next batch try turning it down about HALF what you were using, and perhaps run them longer- all my stuff came out looking much brighter and more shiny- I dont know if you ever check your facebook, but I put a pic and a link to all the pics on there........
So, I have about 7 high-end pistols and the all have stainless barrels. I bought #8 yesterday (Beretta 92FS) and put on some nickel plated grips. I then stripped down the barrel and polished it out, only to learn it isn't stainless, though high-end. Now I have to nickel it. I learned lots. Thank you, my friend.
I dont get it. I made the electrolyte the same way and tried myself. The problem was, yes the nickel was transferred but it just wiped off. I was told I needed boric acid to do it properly. Have you added something to your electrolyte other than white vinegar and salt?
Nice video sharing how we should plate our materials. Here to learn form you your methods and processes for nickel plating, we love your power supply it is a classic version similar to our newer one, nice one. No comment about the funny talk, though seriously, we do see our favorite can of penetration KANO oil that orange can that is the best of the best AEROKROIL it just gets thing loosened up every-time. Nice finish on the bolt compared to where you started, important if the fastener is as rare and labeled as the vintage machine or tool it came attached to originally. The centering tip between dual anodes is great sharing. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.
Nice work RK. I like nickel plating, it has a slightly yellow sheen and is warmer in tone than chrome. Its odd because traditional golf clubs are copper-nickel-chrome plated but everyone seems to say that copper doesn't plate to steel very well. Shows what I know!!
Neat one RK, and yeah, those bolts are well worth the effort. I have a friend plate a lot of bolts mostly because i don't want them rusting out in my shop, quite humid since our lands used to be a bog at some point.
Loved it Road. I never fail to learn something from you and the gang. After you finish the engine HEAD, Polish it and Lathe some shallow groves in it and paint the grooves black or that nice metallic blue, I think the Nickle plating would really make it pop. Either way it's going to be pretty cool. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
I got my nickel acetate brewing now, in my garage. It's not quite as green as yours, but tomorrow night it will be. Using a 14 V dewalt battery as a power source, and I got 100 brass .44 Rem Mag cases polished and ready. Very informative, thank you sir! Looking good!
Started to watch this, wanting to see how you personally do nickel plating... Saw the OHV Briggs that I haven't yet caught up on and had to stop it immediately. No spoilers for me! I'll catch up some time! Cheers.
As a viewer that caught something half-way through in the past on RK's channel, Gotta say, you made the right choice. Kinda like WEB Griffen novels.....it's best to start at the beginning.
I'll have to try this next month when I get paid. I have an old variable power supply I built that has a 2 amp fused max load. Adjustable from 1.5 volts to 18 volts. I'll be doing all the bolts and the carby for the Model 8 Briggs I have.
If i remember correctly steel items are usually Copper plat ed before Nickel plating, acts like a primer mkes the Nickel stick better. Saw the process on Wheeler Dealers with Mike Brewer and Ed China when they were restoring a classic car.
A buddy of mine has an acid bath that someone put a pennie in and ever since then anything that comes out of that acid comes out a nice pennie color. I'm thinking of having him rebuild a 650 Holley carb for me so I can tell people the carb cost me a pretty pennie. 😀
@@ethanross5919 I'm gonna v8 an s10 and I'm not sure if I'm even gonna use a carb or stick with the factory tbi setup. It has been sitting 9 years now so mice may have made the choice for me. Lol
You had your leads connected wrong when measuring the current. Voltage and current reading terminals on multimeter (except for low currents, like mA or uA) are usually separated; you have one for amps (probably the left one on your multimeter), and one for voltage/resistance, etc. (probably the one on the right) and of course, the common (in the middle, I'd say). So, the red lead goes to the left terminal if you want to measure the current - BUT; you measure the current by connecting the multimeter in series with the load and power supply, not by connecting multimeter in parallel with power supply - you'd probably blow the multimeter's fuse if you did have the leads connected properly (and the reading you were getting was just a result of interference, not an actual reading). It's like connecting the multimeter straight to the wall outlet in order to measure its current. Multimeter in current measuring mode is basically a short (it would be like shorting the outlet with a piece of wire, except the multimeter has a fuse, which protects it in case of something like that). So, voltage; parallel connection, current; series connection. BTW, all loads, connected in series, to the same power source, have the same current flowing through them (same with multimeter - if it shows 1 amp, you know your electrolysis cell will have 1 amp of current flowing through it - same with power supply - 1 amp. Voltage can be equal or different between components of the series circuit, but current is always the same). Nice video :)
Yeah we might try copper plating the head and carb first!! We gotta do a little research first, the carb is potmetal, don't know how that will react to plating!!☺
I'm gonna do this with brass rifle ammo cases prior to reloading! i've already copper coated stuff with coppersulfate, easy corrosion proof ammo! Thanks RK and Majic Mike!
@@texasrox2010 I'll find out as soon as I get a saturday off! I imagine so. If not, no loss really, the brass below won't be weaker from this process I'm sure.
@@texasrox2010 Going into the mag aint an issue with revlolver. I think the plating after 5 or 10 minutes will be in the millionth of an inch, I'll resize after I plate em. If it isn't easy to resize, I'll rethink, but I bet it's a pretty thin coat. I mean RK and Mike aint gonna use a different wrench on these bolts, right?? Of course ammo is tighter toleranced than bolts, we'll see. Ask me again in a few weeks, I'll get the alert and let you know.
@@texasrox2010 it does seem to survive a brass brush grinding wheel.....is firing, cleaning, tumbling and resizing harder on metal than that?? maybe repeated reloading might give me fits....we'll see. Maybe I should start a youtube channel.....They'd demonetize me because it'd all be gun related...lame!
@@texasrox2010 he gets support from outside groups that he mentions by name, Buds guns and the NRA....UA-cam has put him through the ringer I'm sure....pluss, he's a retired teacher (it shows, right). He aint doing it for the money.
tell mikey to buy a dehumidifier(summer) and insulate that shop of is....lol and maybe try to heat it just little. that rust and cold air is just to hard on the old machining equipment. can't wait to see the ohv briggs run. i'm going to guess it will run really smooth...…...looking good.
I've had no luck copper plating steel parts before, but I think that's because copper doesn't stick well to iron. Does this nickel plating work well as a base layer for copper plating on top of?
Yes, but you would need to regulate the current in some way. Otherwise, for smaller objects, you may get too much current and electrodeposition will be badly done.
Try it out. Add salt slowly to your mix until you get a steady but slow stream of bubbles. Basically you are making a resistor which lowers in resistance the more salt you add. Too much electrolyte (salt) will increase the current due to the higher voltage and can cause it to eat up your Anode material fast and produce heaps of hydrogen gas which can be explosive. Slow and steady for better results as a home gamer.
Amps is always important, that's current. Set it as low as you can and try it on a fused circuit....if you pop a breaker, try something else....if you're too scared, use a car battery, and disconnect the battery and recharge it as needed.
MissouriOldTimer Add a light dimmer switch to the input (AC side) and dial it in to what ever voltage you want. Turn off dimmer before unplugging charger to prevent damaging dimmer. Some of dimmers don't like a collapsing field from an inductive load.
thanks to everyone that commented on my question, it's looking like I better not try this, although I use electrolysis to remove rust and I've seemed to have success.
It doesn't really matter how strong the supply is - current is determined by the votage and the resistance of the circuit. As long as the power supply can provide the current the circuit wants to draw, you can use a 1A wall wart or a 1000A starting battery. If the power supply isn't strong enough to supply the current that the circuit wants to draw, the voltage will decrease until it balances out, but that means you're overworking the supply (and you need a certain voltage for the reaction to happen properly). If you only have a 12V charger and want to drop the current, put a headlight bulb in series with it.
Thank you so much for sharing this, I didn't know it was so simple to electroplate stuff. I'm guessing copper plating will need a different solution and anode but other than that it will be the same.
Would you consider doing a video on Zinc plating? Not sure how to do any of this and the difference between nickel/zinc plating, but I would like to clean up the hardware for my '67 Mustang before I put it all back together
Hey Roadking! Maybe you should have nickel plated the tail lights on your pickup instead of painting them! I love this! An old dog can learn old tricks!
probably not in my humble opinion......Add a 5K resisitor in line with one of the leads to be sure. if it blows, get a bigger 5K resisitor. and try again. Of course make sure your battery charger is plugged into a fused (maybe a GFCI) outlet, just to make you feel better about it. ya know....safety and all
Guess others already told you that to read amps, you have to get the meter in series, let "Little Dirt Bike" do the technical work. : ) Tanks for the videos, I really enjoy them. Carl
Very cool! When testing for current draw, shouldn't ya be in series with ground rather than parallel with + and - (like measuring voltage) I hate it when the comments try to correct... so beg my pard! Always enjoy the vids!
Wow didn't know it was that easy.... And no toxic stuff like chrome plating ........... A cookie for you Mon Ami ..... Plus Tard ........................
Oh, no, this is certainly toxic and carcinogenic. You have to be careful with nickel powder and nickel salts. Comparable to hexavalent chromium. Most common cancers are nasal and lung cancer. Typically 10-15 years after exposure.
It'd look like one of them steelies from 1943, my step son has one....they're collectible at about 9 bucks and change each. I'd love to find a copper penny from 43....those are really rare. I guess Uncle Sam had a better use than pennies for all the copper...Like bullet jackets for .30 cal rifles.
When you read amps with the multimeter you were shorting the power supply across the meter, to check current the leads need to go in series with the load.
actually, the best way to read current is with an amp clamp across one of the leads plugged into a true RMS meter....but I didn't wanna be too critical.....He aint workin on my mammas EKG, so screw it!
And you have to change lead on the multimeter so the reading was faulty too. But nice plating ;)
From what I know current is more important for plating, you have to set it regarding to the surface to plate. Voltage is only the way to have desired current.
@@plextoob Yes he did it wrong. Shorting across the load like this will typically burn out the fuse in the ammeter making that function of the meter no longer usable until the fuse is replaced. The way it works when you put the meter in series is by a shunt resistor of very low and precise ohms. The very small voltage drop across the shunt is measured by an op amp which amplifies the small voltage drop allowing the meter to measure the current. The same method should be used for high accuracy at higher current, using a shunt resistor and measuring the voltage drop. It's always a good idea to have a pretty good ball park idea of the current that is flowing so that you don't exceed the rating of your fuse. For quick check you can use a clamp meter. They are less accurate, but are inherently safer since no wires need to be exposed. As such they are generally useful when dealing with high current or high voltage applications where an exact measurement is not required. One major disadvantage of the clamp meters is they only work when around a single wire, and so do not work when clamped over for example an extension cord, which has current flowing both directions, thus will measure as zero current.
Nice job RK. When I was 16 I worked in a plating factory. There were these baths there that were about 5ftx7ftx20ft. On the edges were baskets that held the nickel pellets. They gave me a box of pellets that weighed about 60lbs and told me to walk out on the edge of the baths (about 7 inches wide) and fill up the baskets. I nearly lost my balance and fell in. The guy instructing me says "FFS don't fall in there, you;ll be dead before you hit the bottom.
It would be interesting to weigh and measure with a micrometer something perfectly round, before and after plating. cheers.
I just did three weeks worth of Nickel plating every fastener on a big heavy 1500lb Surface grinder restoration from 1946 - Hundreds of bolts, nuts. screws, etc - you stuff comes out real dark and black looking which usually means your running the volts or amps too high, and it's "Burning" - theres formulas for calculating your surface area, but next batch try turning it down about HALF what you were using, and perhaps run them longer- all my stuff came out looking much brighter and more shiny-
I dont know if you ever check your facebook, but I put a pic and a link to all the pics on there........
Nah I never look at that page but I just looked at all 289 pictures!! Well done Bud!!☺
@@805ROADKING Thanks Kiddo- Love your vids!~
So, I have about 7 high-end pistols and the all have stainless barrels. I bought #8 yesterday (Beretta 92FS) and put on some nickel plated grips. I then stripped down the barrel and polished it out, only to learn it isn't stainless, though high-end. Now I have to nickel it.
I learned lots. Thank you, my friend.
I dont get it. I made the electrolyte the same way and tried myself. The problem was, yes the nickel was transferred but it just wiped off. I was told I needed boric acid to do it properly. Have you added something to your electrolyte other than white vinegar and salt?
Just the head, and just for a minute.
Nice video sharing how we should plate our materials. Here to learn form you your methods and processes for nickel plating, we love your power supply it is a classic version similar to our newer one, nice one. No comment about the funny talk, though seriously, we do see our favorite can of penetration KANO oil that orange can that is the best of the best AEROKROIL it just gets thing loosened up every-time.
Nice finish on the bolt compared to where you started, important if the fastener is as rare and labeled as the vintage machine or tool it came attached to originally.
The centering tip between dual anodes is great sharing.
Thank you.
Lance & Patrick.
Nice job RoadKING and Mike. YOU guys are a real team. Not job to hard for you guys !!!
The nickel plating looks better than chrome to me. That works very well!
That's what they use in the old days!!☺
Nice work RK. I like nickel plating, it has a slightly yellow sheen and is warmer in tone than chrome. Its odd because traditional golf clubs are copper-nickel-chrome plated but everyone seems to say that copper doesn't plate to steel very well. Shows what I know!!
Neat one RK, and yeah, those bolts are well worth the effort. I have a friend plate a lot of bolts mostly because i don't want them rusting out in my shop, quite humid since our lands used to be a bog at some point.
Thanks Bud!!☺
If you think thats bad you want to come and live here in South Wales....
I didn't know i could take my raincoat off until i was 8 years old!! ;)
Thanks for the free shop class!
Pretty amazing, and it's not that difficult to do, Roadking. That blue and nickel are good go great together. Thanks, Bud!!
No worries. More than the head ALWAYS goes in, no matter how hard you try.
Loved it Road. I never fail to learn something from you and the gang. After you finish the engine HEAD, Polish it and Lathe some shallow groves in it and paint the grooves black or that nice metallic blue, I think the Nickle plating would really make it pop. Either way it's going to be pretty cool. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Keith!! Yeah we'd like to do something with the head and I like that idea!!☺
I got my nickel acetate brewing now, in my garage. It's not quite as green as yours, but tomorrow night it will be. Using a 14 V dewalt battery as a power source, and I got 100 brass .44 Rem Mag cases polished and ready. Very informative, thank you sir! Looking good!
Wow, those bolts came out great - really looking forward to seeing the carb and head get plated. "Just the head"....LOL!
yep...."just the head" jokes are right up there with "that's what she said" jokes.👌
Chris Holt
Sounds like one of biggest lies ever! Check is in the mail....
Pretty cool EJ. "Chrome" is only the clear coat over a nickel plating...if I recall correctly??? Fun stuff
Yeah Buddy!! Nickel is old school!!☺
Started to watch this, wanting to see how you personally do nickel plating... Saw the OHV Briggs that I haven't yet caught up on and had to stop it immediately. No spoilers for me! I'll catch up some time! Cheers.
As a viewer that caught something half-way through in the past on RK's channel, Gotta say, you made the right choice. Kinda like WEB Griffen novels.....it's best to start at the beginning.
It's gonna look good with the carb and head nickel plated!
Gonna look awesome, for sure.
I think that acid mixture will eat at the carb if it's a zinc alloy
Haven't tried my hand at plating but now I will!
Sorry but I think Amps needs be measured in series with the load and not sure pot-metal can be plated. Could be wrong.
he'll have better luck if he copper-plates the pot metal first, then Nickel
I'll have to try this next month when I get paid. I have an old variable power supply I built that has a 2 amp fused max load. Adjustable from 1.5 volts to 18 volts. I'll be doing all the bolts and the carby for the Model 8 Briggs I have.
I usually be stainless steel bolts if I'm going for the shiny look, but this is something I definitely want to try! Thanks for the how to!
Cool I’ll have to try this it doesn’t look as complicated as I thought it was
Thumbs up to you RK 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Learned something with these last two videos RK
Thanks 👍
Cool!!☺
Thanks nice vid, but what is the reason only 5 or 10 mins? Can I leave it in for longer and would it be better(thick) or worse?
If i remember correctly steel items are usually Copper plat ed before Nickel plating, acts like a primer mkes the Nickel stick better. Saw the process on Wheeler Dealers with Mike Brewer and Ed China when they were restoring a classic car.
Yeah we're gonna copper plate the head and carb first, then nickel it!!☺
It's quite a magical process :) Nice work!
Thanks Mate!!☺
A buddy of mine has an acid bath that someone put a pennie in and ever since then anything that comes out of that acid comes out a nice pennie color. I'm thinking of having him rebuild a 650 Holley carb for me so I can tell people the carb cost me a pretty pennie. 😀
Yeah i think a copper plated carb would be neat
@@ethanross5919 I'm gonna v8 an s10 and I'm not sure if I'm even gonna use a carb or stick with the factory tbi setup. It has been sitting 9 years now so mice may have made the choice for me. Lol
@@allenmckinney9533 yeah mice are harder on wiring then they are on carbs lol.
Love the pretty penny idea
Ahhh so that`s how it`s done. I`m going to try this out.
I have a few bolts too, that I`d like to protect and make look better too.
Thanks brother!
Pretty cool, I didn't realize how simple a process it was.
Those bolts were made from Rockford Screw Products.
I used to operate a header that made bolts. In my young days.
You had your leads connected wrong when measuring the current. Voltage and current reading terminals on multimeter (except for low currents, like mA or uA) are usually separated; you have one for amps (probably the left one on your multimeter), and one for voltage/resistance, etc. (probably the one on the right) and of course, the common (in the middle, I'd say). So, the red lead goes to the left terminal if you want to measure the current - BUT; you measure the current by connecting the multimeter in series with the load and power supply, not by connecting multimeter in parallel with power supply - you'd probably blow the multimeter's fuse if you did have the leads connected properly (and the reading you were getting was just a result of interference, not an actual reading). It's like connecting the multimeter straight to the wall outlet in order to measure its current. Multimeter in current measuring mode is basically a short (it would be like shorting the outlet with a piece of wire, except the multimeter has a fuse, which protects it in case of something like that). So, voltage; parallel connection, current; series connection. BTW, all loads, connected in series, to the same power source, have the same current flowing through them (same with multimeter - if it shows 1 amp, you know your electrolysis cell will have 1 amp of current flowing through it - same with power supply - 1 amp. Voltage can be equal or different between components of the series circuit, but current is always the same). Nice video :)
A lot of stainless parts with threads that I work on get the threads copper plated and then nickel over the copper. I guess it bonds better.
Yeah we might try copper plating the head and carb first!! We gotta do a little research first, the carb is potmetal, don't know how that will react to plating!!☺
I'm gonna do this with brass rifle ammo cases prior to reloading! i've already copper coated stuff with coppersulfate, easy corrosion proof ammo! Thanks RK and Majic Mike!
@@texasrox2010 I'll find out as soon as I get a saturday off! I imagine so. If not, no loss really, the brass below won't be weaker from this process I'm sure.
@@texasrox2010 Going into the mag aint an issue with revlolver. I think the plating after 5 or 10 minutes will be in the millionth of an inch, I'll resize after I plate em. If it isn't easy to resize, I'll rethink, but I bet it's a pretty thin coat. I mean RK and Mike aint gonna use a different wrench on these bolts, right?? Of course ammo is tighter toleranced than bolts, we'll see. Ask me again in a few weeks, I'll get the alert and let you know.
@@texasrox2010 it does seem to survive a brass brush grinding wheel.....is firing, cleaning, tumbling and resizing harder on metal than that?? maybe repeated reloading might give me fits....we'll see. Maybe I should start a youtube channel.....They'd demonetize me because it'd all be gun related...lame!
@@texasrox2010 he gets support from outside groups that he mentions by name, Buds guns and the NRA....UA-cam has put him through the ringer I'm sure....pluss, he's a retired teacher (it shows, right). He aint doing it for the money.
copper sulfate in water plates to steel on its own
Please do a video on restoring that buffing wheel setup, it sounds horrible...like the bearings are square Haha. Cheers, Mark
I keep it like that so nobody backs into it!!☺
Apart from the rough bearings, I so wanted to fit a belt tensioner to that setup.
That will be a nice touch for the engine. And ALSO for the future Hot Rod! Newk from Kentucky
I'm impressed, that doesn't look as involved as I thought it would be.
Thanks Lloyd!! I'm sure you could find a good use for it!!☺
I wonder if a person could polish the newly plated part with car polish by hand and get the same result?
tell mikey to buy a dehumidifier(summer) and insulate that shop of is....lol and maybe try to heat it just little. that rust and cold air is just to hard on the old machining equipment. can't wait to see the ohv briggs run. i'm going to guess it will run really smooth...…...looking good.
He's moving soon!!☺
Silly question: What do you use for liquid?
I've had no luck copper plating steel parts before, but I think that's because copper doesn't stick well to iron. Does this nickel plating work well as a base layer for copper plating on top of?
Don't know Bud!!☺
R K the mad Scientist . Nice low budget plating for the Garage Guru .
Dr. RoadKing's Mad Laboratory!! Have to try that out one day. Thanks for the lesson Buddy! See I avoided saying TIP...opps!
Could you use a small motorcycle battery for this process or even a car battery?
Yes, but you would need to regulate the current in some way.
Otherwise, for smaller objects, you may get too much current and electrodeposition will be badly done.
Great Job!
is a battery charger too strong? I have a 12 volt power supply but it might also be too strong, is the amps important?
Try it out. Add salt slowly to your mix until you get a steady but slow stream of bubbles. Basically you are making a resistor which lowers in resistance the more salt you add. Too much electrolyte (salt) will increase the current due to the higher voltage and can cause it to eat up your Anode material fast and produce heaps of hydrogen gas which can be explosive. Slow and steady for better results as a home gamer.
Amps is always important, that's current. Set it as low as you can and try it on a fused circuit....if you pop a breaker, try something else....if you're too scared, use a car battery, and disconnect the battery and recharge it as needed.
MissouriOldTimer
Add a light dimmer switch to the input (AC side) and dial it in to what ever voltage you want. Turn off dimmer before unplugging charger to prevent damaging dimmer. Some of dimmers don't like a collapsing field from an inductive load.
thanks to everyone that commented on my question, it's looking like I better not try this, although I use electrolysis to remove rust and I've seemed to have success.
It doesn't really matter how strong the supply is - current is determined by the votage and the resistance of the circuit. As long as the power supply can provide the current the circuit wants to draw, you can use a 1A wall wart or a 1000A starting battery. If the power supply isn't strong enough to supply the current that the circuit wants to draw, the voltage will decrease until it balances out, but that means you're overworking the supply (and you need a certain voltage for the reaction to happen properly). If you only have a 12V charger and want to drop the current, put a headlight bulb in series with it.
Ive had good luck with cold blue from the local gun store. Never did nickel or zinc, ill try it soon for sure.
I've never tried bluing, we'll have to give it a go!!☺
Ive always like the look of nickel over chrome
Yeah Buddy!! Nickel is old school!!☺
Nice job roadking big thumbs up 👍
Thanks Bud!!☺
Thank you so much for sharing this, I didn't know it was so simple to electroplate stuff. I'm guessing copper plating will need a different solution and anode but other than that it will be the same.
Yeah it's very similar!!☺
COIL BIND! Are you a buffing smith?
Another great one RK
Thanks Bud!!☺
Would you consider doing a video on Zinc plating? Not sure how to do any of this and the difference between nickel/zinc plating, but I would like to clean up the hardware for my '67 Mustang before I put it all back together
Nah we won't be doing any zinc plating but the process is very similar!!☺
The carb will be fun to see plated RK.
Yeah Buddy!! ☺
By darn .. I GOTTA TRY THAT !! .. ENJOYED .. Awesome King ..
Happy Tuesday👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍Nice Job Mr ROAD King
Thanks Bud!!☺
Hey Roadking! Maybe you should have nickel plated the tail lights on your pickup instead of painting them! I love this! An old dog can learn old tricks!
Would a battery charger on trickle be too much?
probably not in my humble opinion......Add a 5K resisitor in line with one of the leads to be sure. if it blows, get a bigger 5K resisitor. and try again. Of course make sure your battery charger is plugged into a fused (maybe a GFCI) outlet, just to make you feel better about it. ya know....safety and all
hi there.
what kind of Nickel solution you use _Nickel Acetate or Nickel sulfate..??
Could use a wheel under the polishing belt. make that machine more efficient.
Guess others already told you that to read amps, you have to get the meter in series, let "Little Dirt Bike" do the technical work. : ) Tanks for the videos, I really enjoy them. Carl
Yeah Buddy!! Don't believe anything you see on the internet!!☺
Question how much plate can you build up can u get to mm
Nice mate.
Thanks Mate!! Cheers!!☺
Any reason not to plate the bolts up to the threads, along the smooth part of the shank?
@@texasrox2010 Well, I mean everything but the threads.
plate all of it, hell. if you need to run the threads through a die to clean them uo, so be it. Why not, don't cost much
Very cool Great video big thumbs up
Thanks Bud!!☺
I shall have to give it a try. Thanks friend
Go for it Mate!!☺
I noticed sharp parts do burn easier
U need to copper plate the bolt first so the nickle will stick. I dont think u did much but polish the bolt
May i ask whats the green liquid?
Awesome video
Thanks Bud!!☺
Bit late commenting buddy but still not going to miss out 😊bolts looking good now
Thanks Bud!! It's never too late!!☺
whats the green liquid?
Very cool! When testing for current draw, shouldn't ya be in series with ground rather than parallel with + and - (like measuring voltage) I hate it when the comments try to correct... so beg my pard! Always enjoy the vids!
Don't believe anything you see on the internet!!☺
@@805ROADKING hahahaha...roger that! Most prob won't get that. Funny guy. Appreciate the vids...keep em comin
I believe that when they plate bumpers, they start with a copper plate, then a nickel plate and finally the chrome.
People couldn't wait to comment on the way you used the multimeter. Paragraphs, edited comments; even a link. Tough gig
Yeah definitely a tough crowd!!☺
Great video - well done!!
Thanks Bud!!☺
Where can I get one of those power boxes
I do enjoy me some nice nickel plating, and I may have to try some of this myself :)
Can you tell me what's in the water? salt or other?
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Anyone know how long the solution lasts? Does it need to be covered? Great informative video!
Thanks Bud!! I've heard it can last for years, I'd keep it covered to keep out contaminates!!☺
Dang. I need to try this.
You'll like it Bud!! Don't cost but a couple bucks!!☺
It would be interesting to mic the diameter of the copper tube before plating adn then again after to see the thickness of the plating.
I don't think it's measurable it's so thin!!☺
Great Video Sir.
Thanks Bud!!☺
That's pretty cool.
got a few things i wouldnt mind doing this too what is the solution ?
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Nickel plating should work great on the carburetor. Cap guns used to be nickel plated pot metal.
Wow didn't know it was that easy.... And no toxic stuff like chrome plating ........... A cookie for you Mon Ami .....
Plus Tard ........................
Everybody likes Shiny Booboo!!☺
Oh, no, this is certainly toxic and carcinogenic. You have to be careful with nickel powder and nickel salts. Comparable to hexavalent chromium. Most common cancers are nasal and lung cancer. Typically 10-15 years after exposure.
Just the tip...Archer!
You from Philly ?
Electroplating is fun...Shades on mate :)
you mite get a better finish if you copper plate then nickel plate
Lets not get crazy here!! Maybe for the head and carb though!!☺
nice bolts...Maybe nickel plate one of those new cheap copper coated pennies
It'd look like one of them steelies from 1943, my step son has one....they're collectible at about 9 bucks and change each. I'd love to find a copper penny from 43....those are really rare. I guess Uncle Sam had a better use than pennies for all the copper...Like bullet jackets for .30 cal rifles.
Even better, zinc coat it and bake in an oven until it turns into brass - then you've got a gold-looking penny.
Soooooo, just the tip but only for a minute? :P
You want a quickie, or the full three minutes?
reminds me of my teenage years. lol
He said head! LOL!!! Great work on the &#-!....
then said oh I put more than the head! I said that's what she said! ... Lol
Zinc nickel plating is the way to go, more hard wearing….Think that buffer needs new bearings…lol
You're not reading the current properly. Put the meter IN SERIES with the lead going to the bolt.
After you stick the head in there, you should shake it around, or your making bubbles 8{D
Enufa dat. Lol. Good stuff