Stihl MS170 chainsaw automatic oiler diagnosis
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- I bought a new bar and chain for my Stihl saw, and quickly found out what killed the last bar. The automatic oiler stopped working. I thought it was just a mistake I made during re-assembly after installing a new drive sprocket, but it's something more. I'll be posting a followup after the new parts come in.
Thanks for sharing. I just replaced my bar from the saw not cutting right. Now the new bar seems to be getting really hot and I had a hunch it wasn't oiling properly. Now I have a better understanding of the system!
I did the exact same thing when I changed the sprocket and ended up ruining the bar. Lesson learned as they say.
Stan, I always put my saws on my outside workbench and wind them up and look for a nice stripe of oil on the bench. You can also tell by putting the saw in bright sunlight and looking for a shiny chain. I break in my saws different from most folks - put them on an old bath at on my workbench and let them idle with an occasional run up to clean off the plug. I usually run them 15 minutes at a time. This gives me ample opportunity to check their jet settings with my EDT9. I generally limit my saws to 12,600 to 12,800 with an ample four cycle. The only saw I have that I cannot limit is my ms 261CM, and I am not a lover of the Mtronic system. I am a screw turner. My philosophy is to lean the low jet and richen up the high jet. I lean the low jet until I loose acceleration and then fatten it up until it returns with a slight shade to the lean side. High jet until I get a good four cycle. I check plugs pretty regularly, too.
Great video, thanks for posting. I did not know the oil was driven from the clutch. Pulled it apart, bent the rod/wire out a little and now the oiler working again. Thanks again.
Bought a 171 from an estate sale, practically brand new. It wasn't oiling. Checked the things and was just starting to cuss everything i buy as junk when i thought about priming it. Pumped some oil from a can into the oiler then spun the gear backward and it sucked it down. Repeated then spun it forward and presto, it was pumping oil.
Dude. You're awesome. Mine was the same thing and i bent it and shea back to screaming. Really appreciate it.
Excellent explanation, but you need to realize that viewers have to see what you're doing clearly. In most shots when you're taking things apart or showing us what a could be a problem, either your hands are in the way, or the area of a part you're describing is out of the video frame. You seem to have described the solution I need perfectly, but I'll have to figure out what I'm looking at when I'm trying your solution. If you can make those video adjustments in future presentations, I'd bet your videos and explanations would be better than any manufacturer's maintenance videos. Thanks for giving me a start for my diagnostics.
Yep, all in all a simple but good video with a few viewer mistakes.
I don't think this video was ment for a person who is NOT mechanically inclined. If you need a step by step video to remove the clutch on a saw, you should probly leave the repairs to a professional. Just sayin. I thought it was a great video, as I was unaware the oiler was driven from the clutch bell.
My thoughts exactly.
Three years later but I totally agree with Ron. The explanation in the video is good but the viewer needs to be able to actually see what’s going on. Camera angles were bad with hands blocking what’s going on, or the camera is not exempt aimed at the action.
Thanks Steve, exactly the answers I was looking for. Made my day!
Metaalhond how oil runs through a chain saw
OMG Thanks so much....my oiler stopped working but I didn't know that until I replaced the bar & chain plus the sprocket...didn't line it up with the sprocket with the metal bar so I wasn't spinning properly. Thanks very much
I didn't even went far with a video Steve solved my problem. thank you a lot, you getting my subscription.
Mine ended up being the tube from the tank came out of the housing on the saw body. Its a pressure fit and i can only assume that i may have blown it off while cleaning the saw with compressed air. Be mindful. Been a great saw for 5 years now. Just bought a 271 because iv needed a bigger saw for cutting up full size trees. I do 5-6 a year it seems. 170 has gotten me by so far but i dont let up on it. Its done it all in stride... albite slowly
That's exactly what happened to my chainsaw. Went to put a new bar and chain on it, found out the oiler was dead and that's why the bar and chain wore out so fast...
I thought i had it figured out but that wasnt it. im pretty sure it's the pump itself. ive ordered a repair kit.
Oil tank to hose tube problems near oil pump common dramas with shitty stihl chainsaws stihl dealers in australia dont wanna know my bar got very hot now it is blue top and bottom heat treated i suppose first bar on saw only ten hours new if that too hard for dealers probably buggered my clutch as everything got so hot thanks stihl i will purchase a husky from now on hopefully less slapped together mond u i will keep my 038 magnum it's a beut saw only twenty years old new ducati coil pack and exhaust goes hard stihl
Takes a big man to admit he F-ed up! Nice video Kermit... Now I need to check my oiler!
if your oiler worm gear was broken or stripping out it's because you put that extra washer on top of your needle bearings it doesn't belong there. The washer will push the clutch cover/sprocket out farther and won't engage the oiler properly. 2:50 watch the clip starting at 2 minutes and 50 seconds You should encourage your viewers to look at a parts diagram to make sure they're saw is put together right in the first place!
Thanks!...taking apart...again lol edit: Im not sure if an impact is the way to go...I stripped the otherside flywheel molded in keyway as the nut came loose(some how)...the rope in spark plug hole would save you 50 bucks lol
When you run a chainsaw without the chain and bar on it, do not full throttle it. The clutch could Fly apart along with the drum. Some of those Stihl chainsaws have a plug on the opposite side of the oiler hole, down on the left of the muffler. Sometimes that plug will fall out and cause The oiler not to work.
Could that plug hole be for an bar oil adjustment screw on some other model saw?
Well, thank you. Had the same problem.
so for anyone reading this down the road, i wanted to tell u what happened w/ my stihl chainsaw so maybe it would provide u with a clue. the local chainsaw repair "pro" got my chainsaw oil lube flowing again - all he did was take the oil cap off and put it on its side for 20 mins. said it was "air locked" which i guess happens when u take it all apart to figure out why it wasn't oiling the bar/chain in the 1st place. sounds like i fixed the original problem but in doing so, created this odd secondary "air lock" problem that none of the youtubers nor anyone online mentioned could happen when u introduce air into the oil's pathway. i'm a little confused why this wouldn't happen anytime u're out cutting wood and run out of oil in your reserve tank. maybe someone can explain that.....
This was a simple fix. You have a view froibles in the video view but all in all a very well done video. You would be a good person to do a more technical video.
Rope in spark plug hole. Seen piston stops damage piston before.
i drilll thos holes out to bigger size..but you need a really good drill bit and press cause thos bars are the hardest steel ive ever tried to drill
Good, but after my rebuilt still not working, do get oil from hole but does not feed the bar.
I have the same problem and tired of messing with it. Bought a husquvarna.
Excellent vid!!!! Thanks!!
Nice one, you must rotate the clutch cover/sprocket by hand 1 turn after removing to make sure it engages the oiler.
If your chain is smoking, it is not getting oil and or dull. Quit cutting and check it.
My ms170 hardly used and it's leaking all the oil from the tank. So im having the opposite problem. To much oil.
Check around the oil cap. The o-ring might be bad, or the cap itself might need replacement.
If it's leaking from the drive sprocket area, take the bar off and check it's clean on both sides, as well as the area where it attaches. If you have a poor seal here, the oil will pump out all over this area.
I got the same problem now on the wife`s STIHL !! How do I unblock the oilways?
my 021 had a crack or hole in the case around the pump and was sucking air
Is that pump self-priming? I cleaned the sift, was entangled. But I do not get oil from the slot.
I can not disassemble that oil pump (039) to see, greetings.
Thx dude.
Kindly make short video for oil gear change and reason for hardness while rotating in ms 170
I do have a video on my ms290 rebuild and near the end of that series I replace the oil pump gear. They are similar.
@@stevewatr thank you 🙏
Cleanliness is next to Godliness. Why would you not clean, it when its apart? 1speck, and the pump stops pumping. Tank air vents need to vent also.
care este poziția corecta a pompei de ulei la Stihl ms180 cea cu canalul spre iesire sau cea cu găurică mica pe rotund
This is part of this.
Mine oils when it’s not even running.
Pretty sure these saws are manufactured BROKE. I guess it's a real time saver...just assume the oiler is not engineered to work, because my buddy's brand new MS170 just ruined its first bar and chain due to insufficient oiling....
I beg to differ, I have a Stihl 017 purchased new in 2000 basically a MS170 saw and have NOT had oiling issues and still has the original bar on it. I replaced the sprocket and two chains and have a minor oil leak and will change both the fuel and oil lines next. They are a great saw if you look after them and know what you are doing.
"Like rat repair the pumkin"
Oohh yeahh..😊😊
What?
I have the 180. I have oil coming out from the clutch and none from my oiler hole. Any ideas how to diagnose this?
check to see if the little port on the saw body is blocked. Otherwise I'm not sure.