This was the first thing I’ve ever sewn and it came out perfectly on the first try. I used my measurements instead of the chart’s And the only correction I had to do was because I don’t have a hip ruler and eyeballed it. And then remembered I have a French curve with my technical drawing stuff 😂 At least I’m using my engineering degree for something 😅 I did have to translate your and the book’s notes to the kind of geometrical terms I’m used to but all was good
You have inspired me to actually start creating my own wardrobe like I have dreamed of. Thank you... Anxiously awaiting my pattern drafting book and my fashion fabric.
Thank you for this video! The skirt block is so important for designing a wardrobe overall. I remember making mine years ago and then forgot to add seam allowances when cutting out the pattern!! Those kinds of mistakes usually only happen once and they are remembered forever! Looking forward to next weeks video!
Thanks for these "basic" videos! I refer back to them over and over. Funny note: I have a practically identical shirt, which I made myself using what I have learned on this channel! The fabric similarity must just be because we both have impeccable taste. 😄
Ok......my daughter and I agree that you are both gorgeous and adorable. And we both love your pattern drafting videos and especially your vintage style. Keep up the wonderful tutorials, OK?
YESSSS! I've been searching through my library and online to find drafting instructions for a pencil skirt I actually like, and you've come through with exactly what I needed. Don't know if you have a patreon or venmo or something, but would love to throw some dollars at you for a more material thank you.
This is the best drafting video. You have factored in ease! Everyone else uses raw measurements and then you need to try and figure out how to add in ease. Thank you so much.
This is gold because nothing ever fits right at the store and it gives me a start to drafting a skirt. I'll have to try this after I put the kids to bed!
I absolutely love watching and listening to you! The fact that I can follow along and understand what you are doing (mostly), amazes me!🤓. You are extremely talented! I’m looking forward to the sewing part of the skirt now! By the way, you are beautiful in the intro! So colorful and bright! I love your hair and make-up too!🥰🤗💕
Thank you, I found this so very interesting, although I'm quite small I'm naturally VERY curvy and finding clothes to fit properly can be hard. Most of the time I buy them to big and just modify them. Yet I grew up in a time when women sewed I think I will bring my trusty machine out and make me some new things. Thank you again and God Bless you
Well done! I think this kind of work allowed me a leg up on high school geometry. I wonder if they can prove that looking over the shoulder of a super seamstress is the best way to numeracy! I shall recommend this to some of the young people worried about falling behind at home.
You are so talented and knowledgable where I am just learning I made 2 skirts that’s it, sometimes you are talking and may as well be speaking Swahili but still I love watching you make patterns it’s so interesting xx
Thank you so much for this! I bought Patternmaking for Fashion Design and have been following the block tutorials. I was very confused by the personal dart adjustments!! This video is a life saver :)
I used this method to draft and then make myself a pencil skirt and it fits perfectly!! Thank you so much for this. I have never owned a fitted skirt that actually fits me before since I am quite different to the standard block proportions. Really helped me feel brave enough to start drafting my own clothes, onto the bodice drafting next!
@@TheClosetHistorian Couldn't have done it without you ❤ Update: I now have an awesome bodice block too! Struggling with the sleeve at the moment but will persevere!
I suggest researching proper measuring methods for the bodice. I found it was most accurate with elastic around key measuring points, as well as little stick on dots to mark shoulder and neck points
A big like...and love! I love your practical and basic informational content. And also your more advanced sewing and all your other fun content. Love the variety!
Thank you so much for this video!!! I really can't express how much I appreciate you taking the time to go through the drafting process of both this and the other block pieces. I saw someone say pattern drafting helped their hs geometry, but I'm actually the other way around, my background with hs geometry combined with making 3d art, sometimes to scale, seriously helped me out. My biggest problem was my hip/french curve is different to yours and the graduations go in the other direction so it was really confusing. Anyway thank you!!!!
So, yeah, I totally agree, the top you are wearing is insanely beautiful. I recently modified a straight skirt, with some odd results. I wonder if the problem wasn't the top edge of the waistband. You know, size 5 shoes are tiny and perfect, too, but unless you're just going to carry them around -- what good are they. Love you, Love your work!! Stay well!
Hi Bianca!! Wonderful vlog.. Excellent tutorial on drafting & I deeply appreciate this.. Being plus size it helps me.. Absolutely love the dress/top your wearing, looks fabulous on you.... 💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you for the book rec! I managed to find an ebook copy, very useful for me. Thank you for your block drafting videos, I can't wait to start making my own. I have a short torso and I'm very petite; finding clothes and patterns that fit are a pain so making my own patterns will be a relief.
I wear a 10-12 in ready-made and 16-18 in sewing patterns. I find the whole thing a little crazy. I wore a size 4 as a young woman. Up to the age of about 40 when menopause struck and also thyroid problems where I gained about 50 lbs, So much fun. At 72 years old and 149 lbs. I am okay with my body {about time}. Having my own skirt block will be so nice.
I range from size 8 (hips) to size 18 (waist) by my measurements on the same pattern because I'm a nonstandard shape, learning to make my own clothing that fit hips less curvy than expected is still challenging as I've had to learn where I need positive ease (bust, or it pulls at the armpits) and where I need negative ease (waist, or my pants fall off), and gives me more options than just shopping in the mens' department...
How do you add curved style lines to a pencil skirt? I have a favorite skirt and took the slip out to take apart and use as a pattern but I guess the pieces were a bit distorted so I’m now trying to reengineer it. It’s tapered in to be narrow on the front, then has three panels on each side that curve at the hip then have swooshy flounce at the bottoms. I wish I could show it to you because it goes perfectly with the style of dresses you make. It is almost like fishtail in the back but each panel has a bit of swoosh. One set of the style lines come down from the darts. And the other maddening thing is it’s cut on the bias. It’s driving me crazy trying to sort out. What advice can you offer ❤️❤️❤️
Its fun to see how you work and do construction, which is different from how I do it. I learn from different styles and methods. I use a tough transparent 1/4" tracing paper ordered from a local office supply store. That is more of need to be extremely meticulous, which isn't OCD, but Autism. I have a set of patterns of the same garment that goes with my in three different sizes. Probably going to dump the largest one as I'm no longer overweight. Mine were made from a commercial pattern with a alterations done to them to flatter a rectangular figure and I cut 3/4" seam allowances to allow alterations throughout the years. My next pencil skirt will be 2-3 "below the knee and before pinning on the fold, I'll move the pattern about 1-1/2" to 2" on each peice to remove the wearing ease and then sew in a custom kick pleat into the back slit. I call it my wiggle skirt. For my rectangular figure, it gives the illusion of curves.
Thanks Bianca for this! I made my own pattern this week for a straight skirt minus a waistband and added a facing and lining. It worked out well but i only added in 2 darts front and back as there's isnt as much difference between my waist and hip as you ( middle-age bleugh!). I think next time i'll do a longer pencil skirt with a waistband and kick-pleat. If you could show how to do a kickpleat too that would be great!
I think this is the easiest pattern to draft out of them all . I drafted one myself but need to draft another due to weight gain . Th.ank you for showing how to do this
Thank you so much for this! I made mine up and it fits, but it was super tricky! My center front hip depth was 8.25 and the center back hip depth was 9.25. So the back dress pattern was one inch taller than the front pattern. I had to ease the back panels onto the front panel through the hip area. Can you think of an easier way to do this pattern, or any adjustments I could have made to the block pattern to make it less of a pain?
@@TheClosetHistorian thank you for responding! I think I am going to just purchase a pattern and adjust it to get my sloper, but thank you for being so thorough in your video! It was really easy to follow along!
I’m in a similar scenario. I’ve got a lot in the back and so my back hip is a full 2” taller than the front. Trying to figure out how to draft this pattern with that in mind.
If it helps any one the differences in the chart are all even, there's no weird maths involved. For example all Waist Measures are 2 inches difference and the Front Waist arc/BWA is .5 inches. So if you can figure out how many sizes up you are from size 18, you can math each size in-between. So for me I would be a size 22 in chart (38 waist, 48 hip), and I would be a Front Waist arc of 9 and 5/8 and BWA of 9 and 1/4. Hope that helps someone!
They don't teach you how to fit clothes on real people?! That's like a doctor only knowing how to treat a CPR Dummy!!! There is nothing like a well-fitted pencil skirt. The first time I made a skirt that didn't ride up in the back or squeezed my front thighs without falling off my waist, I vowed never to buy another skirt again. I recently made a skirt that had a ridiculous dart uptake with super long darts by 'fashion standards' but it just... fit so well over my butt! Also, making mistakes while pattern drafting is inevitable. I'm happy if I only make two that I can easily trace, instead of working back from a complicated dart manipulation included in a pleated seam... yikes
This book failed me on the skirt drafting. I have sway back and straighter hip shape, so I had to troubleshoot on my own what dart sizes and hip curves to make. I ended up doing single darts front and back. I also had to adjust the hip ratios. The seams were all crooked when I tried equal front and back measurements. I like varyform curves a lot more for skirts than the standard hip curve.
Do you have to do anything special to the pattern if you wanted to include a back slit in the bottom of the skirt? I don't tend to like them in ready to wear clothes because I find they're always too high for my comfort, but I'm wondering if I'd feel different if I customized the placement.
Because this particular pattern has a seam down the center back, where one would put in a zipper at the top waist, you can just use the seam allowance along the back as a slit also yes. You will be able to see me do this in the sewing video coming up this next week :)
Thanks so much for your videos ! I have a question how did you correct the fit issues ? I use the same book and as you i have way smaller waist and bigger hips. I used just liké you thé middle size but It was to Big a thé waist and too small at thé hips so i try to add and take away inches where it needed to and use a french ruler but now it's too big i'm Lost 😅 (I know you told you don't remember how you did but askint just in case you do now)
Not a silly question! I just revisited this video and got lost at that point for the second time! On the first page shown where the standard sizing chart is, there is a line toward the bottom for Dart Placement. I recorded all of my own measurements for the rest of the block, but pulled that number on my closest size. (You'll note that Bianca's highlighted column has her 3 15/16" that she mentioned.) Also, if you are using your own measurements including dart intake, you'll want to make sure each of your darts are the widths indicated in the book, and not necessarily the 1" they say in the step-by-step :)
Don't give up! When you get a chance buy old sheets at thrift stores and do your mock ups with those. Yes, you will make mistakes. Learn from them and go on! Our beloved Closet Historian just showed us her mistake which takes guts. Have fun with the basics and go on to the experimental! CHEERS!
Interesting finding: I have the same drafting text book that you are using with the exception that mine is copyrighted 1995. My "Standard Measurement Chart" has totally different measurements across the board. They are smaller. Also, it doesn't have the "Personal Dart Intake Chart" at all.
Great tool for those who haven't memorized their Fraction to Decimal yet! Like 7/8" = .875! see, The Geek Pub Arcade - Fraction to Decimal Conversion Chart. A great Bookmark for a faster than most Brain reaction!
I would love to attempt to draft my own basic block set but as a plus size woman, I'm very nervous! Your videos are so inspiring! Do you happen to know if there is a plus size standard measurement chart to use? I have been Googling but seem to just get size charts from pattern companies. I'm a UK 22-24. Do you think it would be possible to grade up the pattern from the 18 if I used the pattern drafting book you use? 🤔 Love your videos and your style! ❤
Thank you Gemma! While it should be possible to grade the 18 to whatever is needed, it may be a bit difficult if you are newer to pattern drafting (doesn't mean it's not worth a try of course!) The same people who made the charts in my book here do make other size charts, but they are oddly expensive? www.astm.org/Standards/D6960.htm Another option would be to find a similar dress pattern in the correct size and then modify that pattern into a sloper/block (I talk about this method in this video ua-cam.com/video/DUtyPPntBrQ/v-deo.html ) Like this one has 2 darts and would be a good base for the bodice perhaps, or this other one also somethingdelightful.com/m7861 It's possible Curvy Sewing Collective may have a size chart resource as well, as they are a great resource and can be found here curvysewingcollective.com/resources/plus-size-patterns/ I found them when looking up how to do full bust adjustments on my pattern :)
@@TheClosetHistorian that's so helpful, thank you! I bought a pattern drafting book and I am going to attempt the pencil skirt from scratch using my measurements (famous last words) x
Thanks for this video! Will definitely be using it to draft my own. Can you use this to draft an A line? Assuming you just continue the line out from the hip rather than squaring it off or tapering?
You can definitely use this to draft the A-line, but it is done by closing the darts actually, I made a video showing how very recently, which hopefully can be useful ua-cam.com/video/EgDpIq46nFI/v-deo.html
I was wondering how you would approach a peg skirt (??) without draping? I’d like to make one but I don’t have a dress form. I’d like to make a pencil skirt with some fullness/ pleats around the top to make a Vivienne Westwood inspired knee length tartan skirt. Tight at knees but loose at hips
There are many styles of peg skirt but none require a dress form so no worries there, try pinterest for some good drafting diagrams like these www.pinterest.com/pin/160440805449358882/ www.pinterest.com/pin/826129125417113175/
Question when you talk about the Dart intake chart, what if you have a difference larger than 14", say its 16" difference. Would I then have to do like a hip adjustment thing. Im still learning things like FBA etc for adjusting patterns for my larger hour glass shape.
I can image you could either have the side come in a little further at the top of the side seam, or try it with the suggested intake for 14" and then in the muslin stage pin/pinch the extra fullness needing to be removed and transfer that information back to the pattern. Hard to explain in text! I suppose for my 12" intake for example, the total 4 darts on the front are 5/8" each for 2.5 inches, then the back 4 with the suggested 1 1/8 each is another 4.5 inches for a grand total of 7 inches in the darts, which is just over half the initial 12" of actual difference between my hip and waist, so perhaps on could do the math to figure out what each dart would need to be for intakes higher than available on the chart. For 16" for example, I'd just guess the half plus 1 inch idea means 9" of total dart intake on the pattern. I'd probably leave the front darts 5/8" as that seems pretty consistent in the chart and then add the extra fullness divided between the two back darts. So 5/8" for each front dart (4 of them total on the garment, two on each side left and right) is 2.5 inches, then that leaves 6.5 inches for the 4 back darts, so 1.6 inches for each of the two back darts on the pattern may be a good start?! Goodness I hope that makes any sense!
Does anyone have any resources for where I can find the standard body measurements for bigger sizes? I literally need maybe 3 more sizes. I have tried searching everything I can think of but am not getting the measurements I need, they’re either just BHW or other unhelpful measurements. It’s *all* I’m missing to follow this tutorial.
It is kinda possible to scale up/down the charts a bit in a pinch! Using the numbers they give, subtract one size from the other to see how much they are adding each time they jump a size, then extrapolate outwards. Not perfect, but close enough for a mock up!
I'm only just under 7 minutes into the video, but I notice *you accidentally used the 11-inch Difference measurements on the Personal Dart Intake Chart!* I noticed this because I am re-sizing and modifying a 1980s pattern and actually an 11-inch waist/hip difference myself. I hope that 1/8" difference per dart didn't make a significant difference; at least I can rest assured that everything worked out all right in the end! God bless!
Welp, further proof that I'm shaped like a brick, this gave me darted rectangles... My side hip depth is the same as front and back centre depths, and I have more up front at the waist and more out back at the hip to the point where the waist arc M was on the other side of A, hahahaha! I moved my centre line over by half an inch just so that I wasn't trying to fit a convex curve to a concave on. I even measured myself multiple times using strings tied around myself and got the side seams on the shirt I was wearing nice and vertical right where they needed to be... I also need negative ease at the waist or my pants fall down, and I have to put my "waist" at my navel level, which is at the very short gap between my bottom rib and top of my hip, because that's where waisbands will inevitably slide down to anyways. My darted rectangles should at least be a good place to start for trying to drape this on myself. I mostly wanted to do this for using as peplum patterning. Thanks for the turorial! Always appreciate learning new things.
I think that’s pretty outrageous. Spending all that money and not being given some pretty basic information to make clothes in the real world. When I was at school home Economics wS Fashion and Fabric where I learnt to sew but not for many years) and Food and Nutrition. The latter was very useful. As the name suggests we were taught what a healthy diet was and how to make it. It turned into Food Trchnogy. Designing pizza boxes, pretty much like you examining fibres under the microscope, but not taught about the properties of a fabric
Today I watched a women promise to give you the best way to draft an armscye. She continued... "The standard high point shoulder to bust is 9 Inches. LOL What, am I eleven years old? Moving on!
This must be said. The top you’re wearing in the intro/outro is mesmerizing. I’m a sucker for a beautiful pattern.
Thank you! It's a full dress and way too fun and colorful for this sad year stuck inside, but one day I'll get to wear it out I hope!
This was the first thing I’ve ever sewn and it came out perfectly on the first try.
I used my measurements instead of the chart’s
And the only correction I had to do was because I don’t have a hip ruler and eyeballed it.
And then remembered I have a French curve with my technical drawing stuff 😂
At least I’m using my engineering degree for something 😅
I did have to translate your and the book’s notes to the kind of geometrical terms I’m used to but all was good
You have inspired me to actually start creating my own wardrobe like I have dreamed of. Thank you... Anxiously awaiting my pattern drafting book and my fashion fabric.
Thank you for this video! The skirt block is so important for designing a wardrobe overall. I remember making mine years ago and then forgot to add seam allowances when cutting out the pattern!! Those kinds of mistakes usually only happen once and they are remembered forever! Looking forward to next weeks video!
Thank you Peggy! Yes one learns quickly in sewing from the simplest of mistakes indeed, we've all done it!
I've been looking forward to this video so much. I also have an extreme hourglass and I've been intimidated by the adjustment process.
It can be gruelling... but it's worth it. Don't get discouraged. Took me four tries to get it right.
Thanks for these "basic" videos! I refer back to them over and over.
Funny note: I have a practically identical shirt, which I made myself using what I have learned on this channel! The fabric similarity must just be because we both have impeccable taste. 😄
Ok......my daughter and I agree that you are both gorgeous and adorable. And we both love your pattern drafting videos and especially your vintage style. Keep up the wonderful tutorials, OK?
Thank you Kat! (and Kat's daughter!)
YESSSS! I've been searching through my library and online to find drafting instructions for a pencil skirt I actually like, and you've come through with exactly what I needed. Don't know if you have a patreon or venmo or something, but would love to throw some dollars at you for a more material thank you.
Thank you! I do have a patreon but it feels so scandalous to say that somehow 😅 All of my links are always available in the description
This is the best drafting video. You have factored in ease! Everyone else uses raw measurements and then you need to try and figure out how to add in ease. Thank you so much.
This is gold because nothing ever fits right at the store and it gives me a start to drafting a skirt. I'll have to try this after I put the kids to bed!
I absolutely love watching and listening to you! The fact that I can follow along and understand what you are doing (mostly), amazes me!🤓. You are extremely talented! I’m looking forward to the sewing part of the skirt now! By the way, you are beautiful in the intro! So colorful and bright! I love your hair and make-up too!🥰🤗💕
Thank you Evelyn!
Hi, Bianca!! Oh, that skirt! **Chef's kiss**
Thank you, I found this so very interesting, although I'm quite small I'm naturally VERY curvy and finding clothes to fit properly can be hard. Most of the time I buy them to big and just modify them. Yet I grew up in a time when women sewed I think I will bring my trusty machine out and make me some new things.
Thank you again and God Bless you
Well done! I think this kind of work allowed me a leg up on high school geometry. I wonder if they can prove that looking over the shoulder of a super seamstress is the best way to numeracy! I shall recommend this to some of the young people worried about falling behind at home.
Ha thank you Susan!
You are so talented and knowledgable where I am just learning I made 2 skirts that’s it, sometimes you are talking and may as well be speaking Swahili but still I love watching you make patterns it’s so interesting xx
Thank you Beverley!
Thank you so much for this! I bought Patternmaking for Fashion Design and have been following the block tutorials. I was very confused by the personal dart adjustments!! This video is a life saver :)
I used this method to draft and then make myself a pencil skirt and it fits perfectly!! Thank you so much for this. I have never owned a fitted skirt that actually fits me before since I am quite different to the standard block proportions. Really helped me feel brave enough to start drafting my own clothes, onto the bodice drafting next!
This is awesome! Congrats on the skirt and pattern!
@@TheClosetHistorian Couldn't have done it without you ❤ Update: I now have an awesome bodice block too! Struggling with the sleeve at the moment but will persevere!
I suggest researching proper measuring methods for the bodice. I found it was most accurate with elastic around key measuring points, as well as little stick on dots to mark shoulder and neck points
Fantastic outfit Bianca! Love the hair flowers too! You make pattern drafting look a breeze! 📏📐✏️📒Cannot wait for the sewing tutorial 😘💋❤️
Love the top down view!! Also appreciate the advice “Don’t make mistakes.”
Have I learned how to do anything even remotely close to pattern-drafting? No. Did I watch this whole video anyway? Yes.
Ha well thank you! It becomes less scary...eventually! The beginning hurdle is large, but then it's not just smooth sailing but also fun!
Thanks for showing how to make a pencil skirt pattern, your hair looks great love the flowers,
A big like...and love! I love your practical and basic informational content. And also your more advanced sewing and all your other fun content. Love the variety!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video!!! I really can't express how much I appreciate you taking the time to go through the drafting process of both this and the other block pieces.
I saw someone say pattern drafting helped their hs geometry, but I'm actually the other way around, my background with hs geometry combined with making 3d art, sometimes to scale, seriously helped me out. My biggest problem was my hip/french curve is different to yours and the graduations go in the other direction so it was really confusing. Anyway thank you!!!!
just ordered the book, thank you for the helpful video and the reference (Lisa France).
So, yeah, I totally agree, the top you are wearing is insanely beautiful. I recently modified a straight skirt, with some odd results. I wonder if the problem wasn't the top edge of the waistband. You know, size 5 shoes are tiny and perfect, too, but unless you're just going to carry them around -- what good are they. Love you, Love your work!! Stay well!
Hi Bianca!! Wonderful vlog.. Excellent tutorial on drafting & I deeply appreciate this.. Being plus size it helps me.. Absolutely love the dress/top your wearing, looks fabulous on you.... 💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you Deana! It is indeed a dress, much too fun a dress for gloomy summer 2020
CH: They don’t teach you how to make clothes for real people.
Me: I feel vindicated!!
I'm so lucky we're the same size, I love these videos.
Thank you!
Thank you for the book rec! I managed to find an ebook copy, very useful for me. Thank you for your block drafting videos, I can't wait to start making my own. I have a short torso and I'm very petite; finding clothes and patterns that fit are a pain so making my own patterns will be a relief.
I wear a 10-12 in ready-made and 16-18 in sewing patterns. I find the whole thing a little crazy. I wore a size 4 as a young woman. Up to the age of about 40 when menopause struck and also thyroid problems where I gained about 50 lbs, So much fun. At 72 years old and 149 lbs. I am okay with my body {about time}. Having my own skirt block will be so nice.
I range from size 8 (hips) to size 18 (waist) by my measurements on the same pattern because I'm a nonstandard shape, learning to make my own clothing that fit hips less curvy than expected is still challenging as I've had to learn where I need positive ease (bust, or it pulls at the armpits) and where I need negative ease (waist, or my pants fall off), and gives me more options than just shopping in the mens' department...
Love the top in the intro and outro! So groovy and summery!
Thank you Charlie!
How do you add curved style lines to a pencil skirt? I have a favorite skirt and took the slip out to take apart and use as a pattern but I guess the pieces were a bit distorted so I’m now trying to reengineer it. It’s tapered in to be narrow on the front, then has three panels on each side that curve at the hip then have swooshy flounce at the bottoms. I wish I could show it to you because it goes perfectly with the style of dresses you make. It is almost like fishtail in the back but each panel has a bit of swoosh. One set of the style lines come down from the darts. And the other maddening thing is it’s cut on the bias. It’s driving me crazy trying to sort out. What advice can you offer ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for the video! I've been getting a bit more into drafting new/modifying patterns I already own, and this was really helpful!
Skirt length: "decide :)"
Very cute ^_^
Perfect and beautiful
Awww.lovely look..❤️❤️❤️
Its fun to see how you work and do construction, which is different from how I do it. I learn from different styles and methods.
I use a tough transparent 1/4" tracing paper ordered from a local office supply store. That is more of need to be extremely meticulous, which isn't OCD, but Autism.
I have a set of patterns of the same garment that goes with my in three different sizes. Probably going to dump the largest one as I'm no longer overweight. Mine were made from a commercial pattern with a alterations done to them to flatter a rectangular figure and I cut 3/4" seam allowances to allow alterations throughout the years.
My next pencil skirt will be 2-3 "below the knee and before pinning on the fold, I'll move the pattern about 1-1/2" to 2" on each peice to remove the wearing ease and then sew in a custom kick pleat into the back slit. I call it my wiggle skirt. For my rectangular figure, it gives the illusion of curves.
Thanks Bianca for this! I made my own pattern this week for a straight skirt minus a waistband and added a facing and lining. It worked out well but i only added in 2 darts front and back as there's isnt as much difference between my waist and hip as you ( middle-age bleugh!). I think next time i'll do a longer pencil skirt with a waistband and kick-pleat. If you could show how to do a kickpleat too that would be great!
I think this is the easiest pattern to draft out of them all . I drafted one myself but need to draft another due to weight gain . Th.ank you for showing how to do this
I agree!
Thank you so much for this! I made mine up and it fits, but it was super tricky! My center front hip depth was 8.25 and the center back hip depth was 9.25. So the back dress pattern was one inch taller than the front pattern. I had to ease the back panels onto the front panel through the hip area. Can you think of an easier way to do this pattern, or any adjustments I could have made to the block pattern to make it less of a pain?
Hmm! Honestly if it were me I would probably just shorten the back from the hem 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian thank you for responding! I think I am going to just purchase a pattern and adjust it to get my sloper, but thank you for being so thorough in your video! It was really easy to follow along!
I’m in a similar scenario. I’ve got a lot in the back and so my back hip is a full 2” taller than the front. Trying to figure out how to draft this pattern with that in mind.
Thank you so much for making a video for a skirt!
Thank you for sharing ❤
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video! Just the thing I needed 😁👍
So excited to try it myself!
If it helps any one the differences in the chart are all even, there's no weird maths involved. For example all Waist Measures are 2 inches difference and the Front Waist arc/BWA is .5 inches. So if you can figure out how many sizes up you are from size 18, you can math each size in-between. So for me I would be a size 22 in chart (38 waist, 48 hip), and I would be a Front Waist arc of 9 and 5/8 and BWA of 9 and 1/4.
Hope that helps someone!
They don't teach you how to fit clothes on real people?! That's like a doctor only knowing how to treat a CPR Dummy!!!
There is nothing like a well-fitted pencil skirt. The first time I made a skirt that didn't ride up in the back or squeezed my front thighs without falling off my waist, I vowed never to buy another skirt again. I recently made a skirt that had a ridiculous dart uptake with super long darts by 'fashion standards' but it just... fit so well over my butt!
Also, making mistakes while pattern drafting is inevitable. I'm happy if I only make two that I can easily trace, instead of working back from a complicated dart manipulation included in a pleated seam... yikes
This book failed me on the skirt drafting. I have sway back and straighter hip shape, so I had to troubleshoot on my own what dart sizes and hip curves to make. I ended up doing single darts front and back. I also had to adjust the hip ratios. The seams were all crooked when I tried equal front and back measurements. I like varyform curves a lot more for skirts than the standard hip curve.
Do you have to do anything special to the pattern if you wanted to include a back slit in the bottom of the skirt?
I don't tend to like them in ready to wear clothes because I find they're always too high for my comfort, but I'm wondering if I'd feel different if I customized the placement.
Because this particular pattern has a seam down the center back, where one would put in a zipper at the top waist, you can just use the seam allowance along the back as a slit also yes. You will be able to see me do this in the sewing video coming up this next week :)
Thanks so much for your videos ! I have a question how did you correct the fit issues ? I use the same book and as you i have way smaller waist and bigger hips. I used just liké you thé middle size but It was to Big a thé waist and too small at thé hips so i try to add and take away inches where it needed to and use a french ruler but now it's too big i'm Lost 😅
(I know you told you don't remember how you did but askint just in case you do now)
Ok silly question but how did you figure out where to place the first dart? The book is super vague.
Not a silly question! I just revisited this video and got lost at that point for the second time!
On the first page shown where the standard sizing chart is, there is a line toward the bottom for Dart Placement. I recorded all of my own measurements for the rest of the block, but pulled that number on my closest size. (You'll note that Bianca's highlighted column has her 3 15/16" that she mentioned.)
Also, if you are using your own measurements including dart intake, you'll want to make sure each of your darts are the widths indicated in the book, and not necessarily the 1" they say in the step-by-step :)
The Wes Anderson over-top view
Fabulous tutorial as usual!!!!! Are you planning on a pants pattern also?
Thank you! Not at this time because I have only done it from scratch once myself, and it was about 10 years ago...so I'm not really qualified!
Couldn’t relate more to the fashion schools training you to draft patterns for mannequin sizes. That’s why I’m lost, and I graduated this month!
Don't give up! When you get a chance buy old sheets at thrift stores and do your mock ups with those. Yes, you will make mistakes. Learn from them and go on! Our beloved Closet Historian just showed us her mistake which takes guts. Have fun with the basics and go on to the experimental! CHEERS!
Interesting finding: I have the same drafting text book that you are using with the exception that mine is copyrighted 1995. My "Standard Measurement Chart" has totally different measurements across the board. They are smaller. Also, it doesn't have the "Personal Dart Intake Chart" at all.
I wonder if the newest edition has changed again by now hmm! I do have some older drafting books, I should compare them!
Perhaps you might create a new and improved version for the pencil block for your catalog. It’ll live on YT ‘forever”.
Great tool for those who haven't memorized their Fraction to Decimal yet! Like 7/8" = .875!
see, The Geek Pub Arcade - Fraction to Decimal Conversion Chart.
A great Bookmark for a faster than most Brain reaction!
I would love to attempt to draft my own basic block set but as a plus size woman, I'm very nervous! Your videos are so inspiring! Do you happen to know if there is a plus size standard measurement chart to use? I have been Googling but seem to just get size charts from pattern companies. I'm a UK 22-24. Do you think it would be possible to grade up the pattern from the 18 if I used the pattern drafting book you use? 🤔 Love your videos and your style! ❤
Thank you Gemma! While it should be possible to grade the 18 to whatever is needed, it may be a bit difficult if you are newer to pattern drafting (doesn't mean it's not worth a try of course!) The same people who made the charts in my book here do make other size charts, but they are oddly expensive? www.astm.org/Standards/D6960.htm Another option would be to find a similar dress pattern in the correct size and then modify that pattern into a sloper/block (I talk about this method in this video ua-cam.com/video/DUtyPPntBrQ/v-deo.html ) Like this one has 2 darts and would be a good base for the bodice perhaps, or this other one also somethingdelightful.com/m7861 It's possible Curvy Sewing Collective may have a size chart resource as well, as they are a great resource and can be found here curvysewingcollective.com/resources/plus-size-patterns/ I found them when looking up how to do full bust adjustments on my pattern :)
@@TheClosetHistorian that's so helpful, thank you! I bought a pattern drafting book and I am going to attempt the pencil skirt from scratch using my measurements (famous last words) x
Thanks for this video! Will definitely be using it to draft my own. Can you use this to draft an A line? Assuming you just continue the line out from the hip rather than squaring it off or tapering?
You can definitely use this to draft the A-line, but it is done by closing the darts actually, I made a video showing how very recently, which hopefully can be useful ua-cam.com/video/EgDpIq46nFI/v-deo.html
@@TheClosetHistorian thanks so much!
I was wondering how you would approach a peg skirt (??) without draping? I’d like to make one but I don’t have a dress form. I’d like to make a pencil skirt with some fullness/ pleats around the top to make a Vivienne Westwood inspired knee length tartan skirt. Tight at knees but loose at hips
There are many styles of peg skirt but none require a dress form so no worries there, try pinterest for some good drafting diagrams like these www.pinterest.com/pin/160440805449358882/ www.pinterest.com/pin/826129125417113175/
@@TheClosetHistorian thank you so much, that’s amazing - really appreciate the reply 🙏 I just couldn’t picture it but it makes sense immediately
Thank you : )
I like your video
Question when you talk about the Dart intake chart, what if you have a difference larger than 14", say its 16" difference. Would I then have to do like a hip adjustment thing. Im still learning things like FBA etc for adjusting patterns for my larger hour glass shape.
I can image you could either have the side come in a little further at the top of the side seam, or try it with the suggested intake for 14" and then in the muslin stage pin/pinch the extra fullness needing to be removed and transfer that information back to the pattern. Hard to explain in text! I suppose for my 12" intake for example, the total 4 darts on the front are 5/8" each for 2.5 inches, then the back 4 with the suggested 1 1/8 each is another 4.5 inches for a grand total of 7 inches in the darts, which is just over half the initial 12" of actual difference between my hip and waist, so perhaps on could do the math to figure out what each dart would need to be for intakes higher than available on the chart. For 16" for example, I'd just guess the half plus 1 inch idea means 9" of total dart intake on the pattern. I'd probably leave the front darts 5/8" as that seems pretty consistent in the chart and then add the extra fullness divided between the two back darts. So 5/8" for each front dart (4 of them total on the garment, two on each side left and right) is 2.5 inches, then that leaves 6.5 inches for the 4 back darts, so 1.6 inches for each of the two back darts on the pattern may be a good start?! Goodness I hope that makes any sense!
Does anyone have any resources for where I can find the standard body measurements for bigger sizes? I literally need maybe 3 more sizes. I have tried searching everything I can think of but am not getting the measurements I need, they’re either just BHW or other unhelpful measurements. It’s *all* I’m missing to follow this tutorial.
It is kinda possible to scale up/down the charts a bit in a pinch! Using the numbers they give, subtract one size from the other to see how much they are adding each time they jump a size, then extrapolate outwards. Not perfect, but close enough for a mock up!
Tailor training in s basically in the job training. I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have. Professional tailor for 30yrs
Thank you Jennifer! I really want to try and make a proper suit jacket next fall!
Idk if you know this but you've used the dart measurements for an 11" difference.
I'm only just under 7 minutes into the video, but I notice *you accidentally used the 11-inch Difference measurements on the Personal Dart Intake Chart!* I noticed this because I am re-sizing and modifying a 1980s pattern and actually an 11-inch waist/hip difference myself. I hope that 1/8" difference per dart didn't make a significant difference; at least I can rest assured that everything worked out all right in the end! God bless!
I'd make more mistakes then you, but learning from you!
My hip width isn't even on the chart :(
eighth!
Welp, further proof that I'm shaped like a brick, this gave me darted rectangles... My side hip depth is the same as front and back centre depths, and I have more up front at the waist and more out back at the hip to the point where the waist arc M was on the other side of A, hahahaha! I moved my centre line over by half an inch just so that I wasn't trying to fit a convex curve to a concave on. I even measured myself multiple times using strings tied around myself and got the side seams on the shirt I was wearing nice and vertical right where they needed to be...
I also need negative ease at the waist or my pants fall down, and I have to put my "waist" at my navel level, which is at the very short gap between my bottom rib and top of my hip, because that's where waisbands will inevitably slide down to anyways.
My darted rectangles should at least be a good place to start for trying to drape this on myself. I mostly wanted to do this for using as peplum patterning.
Thanks for the turorial! Always appreciate learning new things.
I think that’s pretty outrageous. Spending all that money and not being given some pretty basic information to make clothes in the real world. When I was at school home Economics
wS Fashion and Fabric where I learnt to sew but not for many years) and Food and Nutrition. The latter was very useful. As the name suggests we were taught what a healthy diet was and how to make it. It turned into Food Trchnogy. Designing pizza boxes, pretty much like you examining fibres under the microscope, but not taught about the properties of a fabric
Today I watched a women promise to give you the best way to draft an armscye. She continued...
"The standard high point shoulder to bust is 9 Inches. LOL What, am I eleven years old? Moving on!