Making a Shirt Dress Bodice // How to Draft A Basic Collar
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- A much requested modification, or well, two of them! How to draft a basic fold over collar, and how to draft a shirt dress. Add any style of skirt onto a bodice like this one, you can use the same modifications with the regular bodice too of course and any style of sleeve. Feel free to play with patterns and design away!
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/P... (not sponsored)
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!
You could almost wear your mockup out and about it looks so good. You explain sewing so even non-sewers can understand.
Thank you Jade!
I agree with this. You could wear the mock-up just the way it is.
You’re serving invincible museum curator vibes today, honestly aspirational
Thank you! ✨
I would be SUPER interested in a vintage buttonholer attachment video, as a vintage machine/mechanical engineering enthusiast!
I come from a long line of engineers (men and women), yet that buttonholer blew my mind too.
I think this is the video that convinced me I need to fit a block pattern. I love shirt dresses, and have wanted to make a "camp shirt" for ages, [For anyone that doesn't know, a camp shirt is a button front short sleeve shirt with a convertible collar.] Now I know how! The collar is much easier than I feared.
The collar was easier than I remembered too, I had been putting them off for ages 😅
How cool.
The more I’m getting back into sewing (at 56) and I watch you the more I realize how much my grandmother taught me as a girl. She had babies during the depression. She didn’t have patterns, she had whatever fabric she had. She taught me to draw what I wanted and what the shapes looked like, taught me the attitude of of course I can do it. Unfortunately she also taught me sloppiness. That I’m unlearning. But I realize I’m very far ahead of the game. I actually just bought two treadle machines and have rehabbed them and am loving them, and I seem to have made shirts like this when I was maybe 9 or 10, this is very familiar!
You know what's fun? Watching your videos when not fully caffeinated. Because your voice somehow is just relaxing and familiar and even though I have no plans of making a shirt dress today (perhaps ever) it's just a nice compliment to my chai latte! Cheers!
Thank you Holly! I love a chai latte myself too ❤☕
Your videos are so informative, I feel like my drafting abilities have greatly increased since subscribing. Unrelated, but your voice is so soothing, I love listening to you speak
Edit: UA-cam says 1 view, 1 comment, so I believe I am, as the kids say, first
Thank you! ❤ First indeed!
I loved seeing your machine as I learned to sew on one just like that! Mom's black Singer in the fifties. Thank you for wonderful videos!
I think you are one of the best acts on UA-cam today. I look forward to your videos with anticipation knowing I will learn something during each and everyone of them. Thank you. Truly.
Thank you Debbie! ❤
I always loved the clickety-clackety sound the buttonholer makes. I agree it’s a magical device.
Searched forever for what I wanted and shouldve.just checked your channel first. You have the bets drafting methods, and you have EVERYTHING
Thank you Laura!
That buttonholer is GENIUS!
I'm making an all-in-one shirt right now, and I've been stuck on the collar for so long. I have such a difficult time following written instructions, so seeing it in video and hearing it explained in a simplified manner is just massively useful. I can finish my project now!!!
Thank you Kate! I'm glad it was helpful!
Talk about 2 birds with one stone. I am petrified of buttonholes as they are so unpredictable even with a machine that makes "automatic" ones (when there is a Z in the month) I have a 1919 hand crank Singer (Betsy as she is called) and a Buttonhole attachment. After watching you, I put them together and was DELIGHTED to say the very least . No longer do I hanker after a computerised machine. My dear Betsy has blown that idea out of the water. Why did I ever doubt her capabilities? Her buttonholes are sooooo much sturdier than the fancy ones on my other machine .
Plus, you have covered the very topic I was musing over Drafting a collar is not as intimidating as I had imagined . I can now tackle a button front bodice with a lot more confidence With a self drafted sloper and your tuition and inspiration I am going to disappear under a mountain of timeless style dresses and separates Thank you x 2
Thank you Valerie! I'm glad Betsy was up to the buttonholes! ✨🧵
I’ve used a brooch for the top button, that way the shirt is customized to your outfit or mood.
Two quick things
1. Hair looks fab! Love the undercut.
2. Yes, to seeing a video just on the buttonhole attachment! It looks so interesting.
3. Thank you for the informative vid.
Thank you Vanessa!
I'm extremely late but I would drool over a whole video of just your antique sewing attachments and other niche old things that I didn't know existed! That button holer thing is what dreams are made of
I've probably said it before but I can't thank you enough for your drafting videos. I have learned SO MUCH over the last couple of years!
Thank you Christy!
Quickly becoming one of my favorite channels. Your timing is perfect. I was looking into changing collars to be more consistent with the 1940s just today. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you SO much for this video!!! Attaching collars has completely stumped me, and I've tried following instructions in patterns. The written steps just didn't make sense and the other videos I've watched by other creators skimmed over the parts that confused me. Your overview was detailed and filled in the gaps for me. Really appreciate you making a video to demonstrate it, even though it's not your personal style.
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful ❤
You're going to be one of those people who can look back in their 90s and say hey, I helped people. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have the same buttonhole machine; I use it with my Singer 404, dated 1957. My father bought it new for my mother when they were first married. She sewed her own wardrobe with it in the sixties and seventies, including several gowns for formal events. She made many of my clothes as a child, and even ran up some mommy-daughter dress sets for us that were popular then. When I was a teen, I learned to sew on it. Eventually, she passed them along to me and I use them to this day. I love my 64-year old workhorse. Seeing you use the buttonhole machine brought a smile to my face. Thank you for a lovely video!
Thank you Catherine! Can't beat these old machines, I wish I had known earlier that they are the only way to go! I couldn't go back now 😅
First I was like "nah, I have done collars before", but I did get two aha-moments today and that was really useful. Thank you! Now I will struggle less with the seam allowance of the bodice that extends past the collar.
I think why you use the shoulder seam allowance in the drafting is because the curve you measure is the neckline with seam allowance and the neckline without a seam allowance (as it is curved) is bigger. But it is cool that the shoulder seam allowance is the right size to make up for that curve just like that. Seems much easier to measure it like that if it works as well.
Yes you are totally correct 😂 It took me several viewings of my own dang video while editing to notice that was what was happening with the neckline measurement!
Oh man, I have so many of those buttonholers with complete sets of cams that I've collected with various machines just sitting around. They really, really work a treat. Like I would pull my hair out if I had to use a modern machine button hole function ever again!
Excellent video. I could watch your channel all day. I have been sewing for 50 years but have never had the confidence to venture into pattern drafting before. The way you explain it gives me the confidence to have a go. It is a shame that I live in NZ as I have my mother's 1950's singer box with attachments and instruction booklet that you could have, if only I lived closer.
Thank you Sonia!
Such a good explanation and showing as you went along, thank you. I have been looking for a good pattern for a shirt with an open collar like this, but being heavily dyslexic I need something I can figure out with out having to read the instructions and a video showing what to do is always the best. I dress dapperly in suits and shirts most days and as much as I love a button up with a tie or a bow tie, the more open collar is just a bit more casual.
I’m gonna get started on a mock up of this immediately, thank you ❤️
Thank you Sara! I'm glad it was helpful ❤
I’ve been following you for about a year now, I am so enamored by your sewing and instructional abilities. I think this take on the shirt is probably my favorite (at least in the top 10). I feel like I can now take on a shirt dress project. Thank you.
Thank you! I've got another shirt style coming up soon hopefully!
I love listening to you talk, today was rough and you are soothing.
The bonus is the education I receive 🙂
Thank you Rebecca ❤
Oh, and I say "yes" to a video about the magical button making machine! :o)
Yes on the buttonhole video. My spouse found one for me with a bunch of the dies and they are the best buttonholes I've ever done. I also have doubles, most are the plastic ones but i do have the metal set that you showed.
Blessed day! Your sewing and drafting videos are one for the most informative things I’ve ever watched about sewing
Thank you Seth!
That buttonhole thingy is seriously cool. The buttonholes look very neat, too. Better in fact, then the ones my expensive computerized machine makes.
I think they are better than the ones my Bernette makes, so the old Singer is still winning in this sewing room 😅❤
Woot! Exactly the video I needed. Dreaming up a Halloween costume and I want a long, wide, 1970s would be envious pointy collar. And yes, do a video on the button holler. I had no idea it worked so easily!
I am loving this new set of drafting videos that are coming out! I’ve wanted to try this collar for so long but haven’t really understood how to sew it together so have just kept putting it off. Thank you for showing this in such a simple, easy to understand way! You’re videos are invaluable!
Thank you Carrie!
Timing on this is fantastic...I just bought a vintage sewing machine as a gift for my sister and it has a button hole attachment and I never used one....I sent her the link to this video....as I said perfect timing...
Hi from England. I have learnt to much from these set of videos. You have made things from actual patterns so much clearer as well the drafting lessons. Thank you doing theses.
Thank you Christine!
Thankyou for saying that about the collar length. I have had the same problem, but not the experience to know how to fix it…. Let alone use it as a given. My collar were always short. Thankyou.
The measurement for where the collar gets sewn to the neckline is actually 1/2" (or whatever the seam allowance is) down from the edge of the pattern, so measuring the cut edge of the pattern is still a good gauge for the length because it has the extra seam allowance from the shoulder seam and somehow it all works out 😅
Thank you so much for showing the collar/neckline attachment. I have constant anxiety about that point where the collar meets the front edge and this helps immensley.
Not planning to make anything like this any time soon, but I just like to watch you make and explain stuff. Inspiring and calming at the same time :)
Thank you!
I am so excited to perfect my block and start making things that actually fit!
That little jut out from the collar that would show the most would get me. You, however, manage to make it look smooth & easy. I know better!!!! Oh my mom had a button holer just like you have. I remember her using it. Your blouse looks great on you!!!
I love, love, love your undercut!!
I have one of these button hole machines! Never actually knew what it did until now. Thanks for educating me!
Yes, pleased make a attachment buttonholer tutorial in the future. Watching that lil thing work was so cool! I would enjoy learning more, if only because I love tiny mechanical devices.
SO helpful, thank you! P.S Watching your videos has resulted in me buying 'The Book'. Phew...it's a little scary but your videos help me go for it!
ohhh u have an undercut! it looks very cool!
Thank you!
You are crazy productive! If you ever happen to want some instruction examples from vintage shirt patterns feel free to hit me up. My current fave has an all in one collar that folds over which is nice. They definitely end up super bulky at the collar because the facings seem to be huge!
Thank you! My nemesis is shawl collars...I need to try again and master them!!
you look so beautiful and elegant even in mockups! I think part of it is because of how wonderfully the drafts fit you on first try, so thank you so much for teaching us how to do the same!
Thank you!
I've been trying to figure out how to sew these convertible collars! I've read through the drafting manual but couldn't figure out quite how it all got put together. Now I understand!
Now I'm off to sew a bunch more shirt dresses! Huzzah!
Happy I could help! Explaining how to move and flip and turn things in text is nooot easy
I am so glad I found your UA-cam channel.everything you do is explained so well making it great for beginners. Thank you so much for your videos.
Thank you Diane!
Great video as always. You have inspired me to get back to garment sewing. I just finished a summer dress from fabric that has been in my stash for 13 years! I have been downsizing and decided the time had come to use the pretty fabric. 💐
Thank you Julie! I just used a fabric recently that surely I'd had in the stash for at least 8 years or so myself 😅
Yes! Please do a buttonholer video! ❤️
Wow Wee that is a lovely collar. You are so good at drafting your own patterns to suit you I love it and I will continue to watch and learn how you draft and sew garments of your choice. Bravo and thank you for sharing Bianca XXX Happy Sewing
Thank you Sarah!
awesome, I'm going to use this to make some more shirts! thanks to you I've just started learning to draft- I made an all in one sleeve blouse with you're tutorial and I added an awesome shawl collar using a tutorial from someone else and it looks amazing!! thanks so much for your tutorials!!
OMG. Thank you so much! I have a lovely vintage shirt pattern that I like very much, but the instructions literally just say "finish the collar in the usual way". This has been an enormous help. Now I'm going to go back and make another version of that blouse with a collar and placket facing that actually works properly and doesn't look weird from my feeble attempts to figure it out on my own.
Also, I love the way you've cut your undercut to have spikes shaved into it. It's super cool.
Ah those vintage patterns with their" do it like it's supposed to be done, anyhow moving on..." 🤣
I try to avoid sewing complecated things like the collar. But you make this one look so nice
Ahhhhh I'm so excited!! I live in shirt dresses!
That buttonholer!! 🤯🤩
You are awesome! Thank you! I have watched loads of collar videos, yours made it crystal clear! (I didn’t understand the instruction in my dress pattern, but figured I don’t HAVE to follow it 😂)
I’m glad I could help! ❤️
I generally stay away from turn down collars as they always seemed to splay open to far and look overwhelming. I like stand up collars either band collars or turtleneck type stand up collars. Seeing this though made me think that 'just maybe' I could make a collar pattern myself that would look good on me! Thanks so much for the inspiration! I remember your discussion of the haircut experience and the bangs look great!
Thank you Peggy! I need to do a collar with a stand sometime too!
Your voice is the most effective sleep aid as a result this is my 3rd time watching this video and the first time making it all the way through.. anywho staying on topic! 1) I'm so jealous of how easy it is for you to switch out your bobbin 2) yes, thank you to demo/technique videos! Shirt dresses aren't really my thing but the ability to add a collar to a blouse is a useful skill!! 👌🏾
Thank you! I wish they were as effective a sleep aid for me, I get insomnia pretty bad 😂 I love the easy drop in bobbin on this machine indeed ❤
@@TheClosetHistorian godspeed in finding a TCH of your own. Here's to consistent sleep ;)
Dude! Your undercut is SO CUTE
Thank you! I love having it 😅
I find collars, buttons, and darts so intimidating, but you've made everything so accessible and easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you Kelli! So do I honestly, which is why forcing myself to make these videos is actually super helpful for me too to get over the fear!
I am OBSESSED with button holers! I have 2 singer ones, one like yours and one from the 60s (both purchased from a thrift store). I have had to stop my self from buying like 3 others.
I looooove and sewed a lot convertible collars in the past, now I know how to draft them and can put them on EVERY clothing item (besides pants and skirts...) muhahaha!!! * cough * thank you so much :)
Glad I could help! Collar away!
I loved this I know it's just a muslin and the bodice of a dress but using bias on the bottom hem it would make a really cute blouse too
Thank you Alexandra!
I have the same buttonholer. They are so much fun!
I have hem stitch attachment for my singer 66 as well as the buttonholer and I can confirm these things seem like magic. Cams are really cool little things. There is also a zigzag attachment out there but those can be harder to find
Another homerun bianca for those wanting to design your own blouse, shirt waist, button down floor length dress. Great talent.
Thank you Renee!
That button hole machine is super neat! Also, now I want to try to design an insert for it because that's the way my brain works...
I do believe folks have 3d printed them!
@@TheClosetHistorian that's probably how I would fabricate them as well
genius buttonholer, looks like it is more reliable than the automatic one with my modern machine, which is fussy.
Just brilliant.
Louise, Australia 🦘
Very nicely done, Bianca! This top could very easily be worn out and about. Since, you mentioned it, you should do an entire series on various shirt dress bodices and collars. This would be such an asset for beginner sewers.
I just love the old sewing machine attachments. I too marvel at the ingenuity that went into creating such masterful pieces.
Thank you!
@@TheClosetHistorian, You're welcome!
Those old attachments for sewing machines look terrifying but once you use them it’s very hard to go back. The engineering is amazing!
Thanks, Bianca! You break down the drafting process perfectly!
Thank you Erin!
Fascinating I think they are still ahead in buttonhole tech yippie 🧕🏿👌🏾🦹🏾♂️👍
that is the best button hole maker!!!! great video, must try it...tfs :)
Thank you!
Thank you so kindly, for so much. Because of you, I have the ability to sew practically anything I like and modify an existing pattern to better fit, or create my own. I so love vintage styles and quality fabrics. Your buttonholer demo encourages me to use my own (on my treadle). Thank you
I've heard about Cleo, I am sincerely so sorry your loss. They always carry a part of our hearts with them when it's their time to go.
Thank you Dian ❤ I'm so glad to hear you've been having a great time with sewing!
I know this is a mockup but it's so stinking cute!
Thank you!
Love the buttonholer. I bought one brand new in the early 80s for my secondhand Richard machine. Later on I Jerry rigged the machine to work as a treacle machine. Its the best buttonholer I've ever used. Got lost in all the moving over the years. Looking to buy another one.
That mock up looks wearable. I'm also fascinated with your buttonhole attachment. I've enjoyed your technical abilities as to showing how to do these tips and tricks of sewing. Love your hairstyle too. Thanks so much.
Thank you Diana!
Wow, even your mock up is lovely!
Thank you!
In the 80s, I had a blouse like that with large buttons below the open neckline, then a small button and button hole at the neck.
Oh, how I miss that shirt!
I am really enjoying your series on pattern drafting. It’s like magic watching you transform a paper drawing into a wearable garment (or mock up).
Thank you Jacqueline!
I am so in love with your undercut, the pattern reminds me of Japanese white makeup on the neck.
I am very chuffed you noticed that, because I showed my hairstylist images of geisha's makeup as inspiration when we first started doing this pattern!
@@TheClosetHistorian I also have an undercut style and am moderately obsessed with a retired Maiko (Kansai equivalent of a geisha). So I am sensitive to these type of things.
The execution is great, can I also try to get an undercut like this? It's your original idea after all.
@@AquilaROM Totally go for it! Mine never looks like this for very long sadly because my hair grows too fast and I can't do it by myself 😅
I'll go for it once I work up the courage to enter a salon. 🤣
My hair also grow fast, I think it'll last for a week. ┑( ̄Д  ̄)┍
@@TheClosetHistorian That's great!
I have the same button holer for my 1954 15J Singer. I loooove watching it do its thing, it's truly mesmerizing! I've had a hard time lining up the vertical button holes, though. If you have found a way to make that more consistent, I'd be very happy to know. And needless to say, I'd be on board for a button holer video!
Yeah it totally jumps around from buttonhole to buttonhole! Don't know what that's about! 😅
Thankyou, Bianca!
Bianca, you are a sewing genius! You make this look so easy and it so isn’t! You have a gift for teaching for sure!
Thank you Susan!
THANK YOU I have one of those singer button hole attachments... and Im going to try it.
That looks amazing and I’ve never seen that button hole attachment before brilliant 🤩
Beautiful! Sooo impressed. It's magic really how a piece of white fabric can be transformed.
Thank you Jill!
I have been sewing since I could thread a needle. When I was young, for my Barbies, as I got older for myself, and then for my children. The only guided instruction I got was when I took Home Economics in high school many moons ago. The rest I just picked up from practice and observation. I can remember making button holes with that same kind of button hole maker and with a sewing machine not much newer than yours.. They make such beautiful button holes. All this to say, that I really enjoy watching your videos and learning new tips from your expertise.
Thank you Connie!
That is a super nice look.
I love these drafting videos! And please do a video on your button hole attachment. I have a Singer 66 from 1913ish (straight stitch only) and am desperate to learn how I can modify it to do button holes so I don't have to :P
Thank you! This style of buttonholer may work actually, worth a deeper google for sure!
Just incredible. So helpful and inspiring.
Thank you Erica!
Okay, this video officially sold me on my making my own block pattern. I LOVE t-shirt dresses and am tired of having weird fits with patterns! Thank you!
I love this video I'm trying this out now.
I think the reason the length of the collar needs to include that shoulder seam is because you're actually sewing a little bit in from the collar line you measured not directly on the edge. As it's a curved line, it gets longer as you move inwards from the edge so it can't be the same length as the edge itself it has to be a bit longer.
Yes you are correct! I realized this only after my third or fourth viewing of my own dang video while editing 😅 Thank you!
Feeling super spoiled with all of the drafting videos! They've all been fantastic, and a smart shirt dress has been on my list for ages! (I have a black Rayon one I bought years ago, but now I could make them in all the colurs!)
Thank you! Dart manipulation is next ✨
Very timely! While I was watching this I was sewing my 4th mockup for a basic bodice block and my first real-project goal for it is to make a button up shirt. : )
Thanks.
This video is so useful.
Such an added treat to see you using the buttonhole attachment! I have one but have yet to use it, it looks so heavy to be attached to the presser bar. A very clever invention :)
They are fascinating and yet also a little scary yes!