We recently bought a property with a pool. Pool is a 90s installation. The guy who used to maintain the pool had placed a disc of rubber over the drain outlet to stop leakage due to "degradation of the 6 way valve for many years". This means i can't vacuum my pool or backwash the filter without getting my husband to open up the pipework and remove the bung. It's a real nuisance. Is this a gasket issue? Would renewing the gasket alone resolve this? If not we may just add in a valve post 6 way. Everything else seems to be fine. Thanks.
I replaced my spider gasket but the handle does not seem to want to move and i dont want to put alot of force on it. Am i missing something? do I have to grease this gasket ?
Seems like the top part (key/cover assembly) needs cleaned and lubricated. This video should help with that. The most important thing to note before disassembling it - is if the pointer on the handle is over the key opening or not ( some are not). Other than that it’s pretty much how this guy does it. Replacing the whole assembly is also an option if this job becomes too difficult. Best of luck. ua-cam.com/video/VCCYkn3g5BI/v-deo.html
I have an older (20+ years) Nautilus NS-48 D.E. Filter with an American Multiport Valve attached on the SIDE of the filter housing. I know I have to shut the pump off before opening the multiport valve to repalce the spider gasket - but do I need to drain the water level in the filter below the valve before opening the valve?
Not necessarily. Air has to be let into the filter in order for the water to come out and, because once you remove the top of the valve, the openings that would allow air into the filter are the same height (and water is always level) and so air can't get into the filter so it will stay full and not drain into your valve area. However, if the pool water temperature if much lower than the air temperature, or if the sun is shining on your filter, then as the temperature of the water in the filter rises it expands and will slowly fill your valve. This has happened to me several times and I was able to finish the job by removing the rising water by sucking on a small hose or tube like a straw. If I were to do your valve gasket - I would turn off all suction supply valves and open the air relief to drain it out first. With DE filters, any reverse flow though those filters can release DE into your work area making a real mess! Also the American multiport valves are some of the worst in gasket longevity. I think it is because the gasket does not fit snugly into the grooves and can be easily damaged. Best of luck!!
@@aliibrahim9683 if you open up a new valve, like this one, you will see that the ridge is up. (please post a picture if I’m wrong) The ridge is to provide a better seal and it wears down over time.
Yes, I've had to deal with that several times. It is a very slow process. I have a long narrow screwdriver that I use as a chisel (along with a hammer) to break out the super glue. Sometimes it so bad, with a service fee of $125 an hour, it's a less expensive (or a better use of money) to simply replace the valve.
I've found it easier to use needlenose pliers to grab and pull the gasket while using a small flathead screwdriver as a spatula to "easily remove" the gasket. Maybe not easily...but easier.
@@Sabrason So glad you found my video. You are precisely the folks i was hoping would see it. Hope it goes well for you. After 30 years of experience I estimate that approximately 60% of the pool people out there either don’t know what they’re doing or are deliberately over selling parts that aren’t needed. It’s a real shame that there is no national oversight /certification in this industry like there is for plumbers and electricians. Nor is there a training program like you could receive at a junior college like you can in another trades. Best advice I can give homeowners who don’t feel comfortable with their pool guy.… get four or five estimates for work needing done. You should find an honest answer among those.. The other would be to educate yourself as much as you can - . Unfortunately there’s a lot of bad information out there as well.
@@grapplerguy2007 if you open up a new valve, like this one, you will see that the ridge is up. (please post a picture if I’m wrong) The ridge is to provide a better seal and it wears down over time.
Don't recommend this video! Wrong glue, goop is actually too stretchy. Poorly cleaned, Forgot to lube. Do it this way and you'll be replacing the gasket again sooner rather than later. 25 years with many follow ups for this type of installation.
Thanks for your feedback, Don. Could you please share what kind of glue you recommend? I prefer Goop because of it's stretchiness. The few times I have had to replace a gasket I have installed it has been because of chlorine damage due to a chlorinator installed too close to the backwash valve. The stretchiness is helpful because it will, with some effort, pull out cleanly from the valve body making replacement much more easy than silicone sealant or super glue. I have been servicing pools for over 30 years (some for 20 years straight) and have replaced quite a few of these gaskets but have never had to replace one due to glue failure nor from not cleaning the valve body enough. As far as lube, the manufacturer does not recommend lubricating the gasket, key, or the valve cover o-ring - nor are they lubed when it comes from the factory.
3M Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive 847 RTV and other gasket maker type products don’t adhere to Buna-N rubber. Hence the ease at rubbing it off, 😂. These sealants also have a tendency to peel and cleave quite easily. While this is great for cleaning up a mess where a mess shouldn’t be, it’s not the correct product based on the materials involved. The manufacturer recommends an cyanoacrylate type glue. Basically super glue. It’s really difficult to use since it sets immediately. The manufacturer also suggests the alternative I listed above, 847. 847 is the perfect solution. Its set time allows for proper working time and it actually bonds to rubber and the plastic (PVC) housing. Not much is needed, a very thin bead. 847 will require some effort to remove, but it’s not overly difficult and it’s better to do the job with respect to permanently securing the gasket and not wholly with ease of replacement in mind. Hey, do what you think is best though!
Thanks for the video. I am just getting ready to replace the gasket from my pool and this gives me some idea of how to go about it. Appreciated.
Really interesting tip about using a file on the bottom. Cheers.
Love the Goop products. I would put the Goop in the grooves rather than on the gasket, then press it in.
We recently bought a property with a pool. Pool is a 90s installation. The guy who used to maintain the pool had placed a disc of rubber over the drain outlet to stop leakage due to "degradation of the 6 way valve for many years".
This means i can't vacuum my pool or backwash the filter without getting my husband to open up the pipework and remove the bung. It's a real nuisance. Is this a gasket issue? Would renewing the gasket alone resolve this? If not we may just add in a valve post 6 way. Everything else seems to be fine. Thanks.
Yes, that is from a bad spider gasket.
I replaced my spider gasket but the handle does not seem to want to move and i dont want to put alot of force on it. Am i missing something? do I have to grease this gasket ?
Seems like the top part (key/cover assembly) needs cleaned and lubricated. This video should help with that. The most important thing to note before disassembling it - is if the pointer on the handle is over the key opening or not ( some are not). Other than that it’s pretty much how this guy does it. Replacing the whole assembly is also an option if this job becomes too difficult. Best of luck.
ua-cam.com/video/VCCYkn3g5BI/v-deo.html
I have an older (20+ years) Nautilus NS-48 D.E. Filter with an American Multiport Valve attached on the SIDE of the filter housing. I know I have to shut the pump off before opening the multiport valve to repalce the spider gasket - but do I need to drain the water level in the filter below the valve before opening the valve?
Not necessarily. Air has to be let into the filter in order for the water to come out and, because once you remove the top of the valve, the openings that would allow air into the filter are the same height (and water is always level) and so air can't get into the filter so it will stay full and not drain into your valve area.
However, if the pool water temperature if much lower than the air temperature, or if the sun is shining on your filter, then as the temperature of the water in the filter rises it expands and will slowly fill your valve. This has happened to me several times and I was able to finish the job by removing the rising water by sucking on a small hose or tube like a straw.
If I were to do your valve gasket - I would turn off all suction supply valves and open the air relief to drain it out first. With DE filters, any reverse flow though those filters can release DE into your work area making a real mess! Also the American multiport valves are some of the worst in gasket longevity. I think it is because the gasket does not fit snugly into the grooves and can be easily damaged. Best of luck!!
I thought the gasket goes in with the ridges down? Or is it flat side down?
Yeah he put it in upside down… bad instruction
@@aliibrahim9683 if you open up a new valve, like this one, you will see that the ridge is up. (please post a picture if I’m wrong) The ridge is to provide a better seal and it wears down over time.
Ridge side goes up - just like in a new valve.
he put in correctly but i was expecting he will glue up the entire bottom which he did not ..
Flat
How did you get the gasket off? Mine is crazy glued in. I've been at it for 2 hours
Yes, I've had to deal with that several times. It is a very slow process. I have a long narrow screwdriver that I use as a chisel (along with a hammer) to break out the super glue. Sometimes it so bad, with a service fee of $125 an hour, it's a less expensive (or a better use of money) to simply replace the valve.
I've found it easier to use needlenose pliers to grab and pull the gasket while using a small flathead screwdriver as a spatula to "easily remove" the gasket. Maybe not easily...but easier.
@@Sabrason So glad you found my video. You are precisely the folks i was hoping would see it. Hope it goes well for you.
After 30 years of experience I estimate that approximately 60% of the pool people out there either don’t know what they’re doing or are deliberately over selling parts that aren’t needed. It’s a real shame that there is no national oversight /certification in this industry like there is for plumbers and electricians. Nor is there a training program like you could receive at a junior college like you can in another trades.
Best advice I can give homeowners who don’t feel comfortable with their pool guy.… get four or five estimates for work needing done. You should find an honest answer among those.. The other would be to educate yourself as much as you can - . Unfortunately there’s a lot of bad information out there as well.
@@AlliancePoolWorksInc you put in upside down
@@grapplerguy2007 if you open up a new valve, like this one, you will see that the ridge is up. (please post a picture if I’m wrong) The ridge is to provide a better seal and it wears down over time.
E-6000 glue at Home Depot
One he not telling are showing you how long it took him to clean and straping that glue you do not have to glue it the gasket 14$ 10 MIN WORTH WORK
Any tips on removing the old gasket? I am struggling and have been able to remove all but the outer circle which is not budging.
I thought it was straight forward and had a tip.
Don't recommend this video! Wrong glue, goop is actually too stretchy. Poorly cleaned, Forgot to lube. Do it this way and you'll be replacing the gasket again sooner rather than later. 25 years with many follow ups for this type of installation.
Thanks for your feedback, Don. Could you please share what kind of glue you recommend? I prefer Goop because of it's stretchiness. The few times I have had to replace a gasket I have installed it has been because of chlorine damage due to a chlorinator installed too close to the backwash valve. The stretchiness is helpful because it will, with some effort, pull out cleanly from the valve body making replacement much more easy than silicone sealant or super glue. I have been servicing pools for over 30 years (some for 20 years straight) and have replaced quite a few of these gaskets but have never had to replace one due to glue failure nor from not cleaning the valve body enough.
As far as lube, the manufacturer does not recommend lubricating the gasket, key, or the valve cover o-ring - nor are they lubed when it comes from the factory.
3M Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive 847
RTV and other gasket maker type products don’t adhere to Buna-N rubber. Hence the ease at rubbing it off, 😂.
These sealants also have a tendency to peel and cleave quite easily. While this is great for cleaning up a mess where a mess shouldn’t be, it’s not the correct product based on the materials involved.
The manufacturer recommends an cyanoacrylate type glue. Basically super glue. It’s really difficult to use since it sets immediately. The manufacturer also suggests the alternative I listed above, 847. 847 is the perfect solution. Its set time allows for proper working time and it actually bonds to rubber and the plastic (PVC) housing. Not much is needed, a very thin bead. 847 will require some effort to remove, but it’s not overly difficult and it’s better to do the job with respect to permanently securing the gasket and not wholly with ease of replacement in mind.
Hey, do what you think is best though!