HOW TO: Sync Throttle Body on 2021 MT09
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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If he still has the short small clear hose that comes with the carbtune, it's supposed to cut that into four individual pieces. Then, cut each of the black carbtune lines 4in from the ends. Install the 1in clear plastic line into each of the carbtune lines and the 4in black lines you cut from the carbtune go over the end of the clear inserts. That will keep the readings steady and be easy to read.
Appreciate that. We figured it out and made the corrections. But again, I appreciate the advice.
OK thanks for info.. I will be doing sync tomorrow with the Morgan Carbtune pro.. Just wondering did you get all bars to level out evenly after sync.. Or did the master ecu screw with white dot do not touch.. still sit higher than the other 2 bars.. Sophie who also does video had trouble with this.. Doing some research Gen one to Gen 3 have different throttle bodies vaccume settings.. This may be why.. Thanks again
I got the TBs to sync with master. I forgot to put resistors in during the recording of video. I did that post video. But it's synced to master.
OK thanks for all your input.. 👍
Np. Hopefully it was helpful
I know oyu have said that the master is the "one on the left" but as far as i know it is cylinder 3. cylinders are always numbered left to right, making master the furthest to the right. cylinders 1 and 2 are adjusted to 3. also, another thing i noted was the mmhg! if you notice your carbtune pro readings, you'll see that you have gone from ~24 to ~28 (240mmhg to 280mmhg) making the vacuum way to high. you have closed all the pilots shut.. you have added 40mmhg too much vacuum. throttle body sync is about more than just "even". and yeah, the white paint should be on cylinder 3 when "sitting on bike" view. far right.
Hope this helps.
All the best.
If this were the case, would it have thrown some sort of CEL to let me know?
@@YantoSP what do you mean by "cel"? do you mean code error light? if so, no it wont. i will not agree to cyl 1 being the master as it differs from what i know. however, i would contact yamaha in your country and ask them about the master pilot air cylinder number. Although it WILL have white paint on it. so... having verified your pilot air master cylinder, turn other pilot air screws out, till they show correct vacuum readings t be in spec. this should also lower the reading on master without touching it. worth noting that the master is most often found to be seated as far in as it will go.
"mmhg" stands for mm of mercury.
turning the screw in will close the pilot air channel causing the vacuum to increase, turning out will cause the vacuum reading to decrease (lower) as you are letting more air in via the pilot air channel for that cylinder.
This will allow you to reset intakes to the correct values. Take your time on this and always always have the engine well warmed up when doing this. its good to have a fan blowing the front of the bike while doing this too.
The carbtune is a great tool but you will need to see the numbers not as cm but as mm, as thats the normal manual measurement. though other values may be used, simply convert them.
Hope this halps
Have fun making it perfect, you will.
@davidbribie CEL check engine light. Is what I meant. But that sucks it won't throw a code if done incorrectly. Well, I'll have to do some research now.
I've found the this post.. It's long but may help all..
the factory. Recreating fully closed is pretty damn easy, if you ask me. There is no magic, or ECU requirements going on here.
Minimizing the bypass air through these air screw passages became important in 3rd Gens when Fly by wire was introduced. With that change, the cold start high idle mechanism and the warm idle speed adjustment screw were eliminated. All idle speed (both cold and warm) is now a function of the ECU opening the main throttle plates more or less to achieve the required cold or warm idle speed. So minimizing leakage air around them means the throttle plates will be open more at warm idle and allow it to regulate properly."
We did a survey of 3rd Gen bikes, and in every case the white painted screw was the one that was left fully closed by the factory. Recreating fully closed is pretty damn easy, if you ask me. There is no magic, or ECU requirements going on here.
Minimizing the bypass air through these air screw passages became important in 3rd Gens when Fly by wire was introduced. With that change, the cold start high idle mechanism and the warm idle speed adjustment screw were eliminated. All idle speed (both cold and warm) is now a function of the ECU opening the main throttle plates more or less to achieve the required cold or warm idle speed. So minimizing leakage air around them means the throttle plates will be open more at warm idle and allow it to regulate properly."
glad i could help!
Thanks again for helping!
Today I tried to sync my mt 09 2022 plate.. My master screw was left side as if sat on the bike painted white.. I never touched it.. But odd thing is my middle screw was seized
Right side would turn.. Now the odd thing is reading latest comments.. There is another thread buy Sophia social moto.. Doing throttle body sync on 2021 mt sp.. Same as yanto sp 2021. so for Sophia mt the middle screw painted white..
It's all getting a bit confusing.. As yanto I will be looking into this.. 🤔
The right screw is the master screw. It has a white marking on it. I would sync it again ASAP.
the master was the one all the way to left. it had the white paint on it and I did not touch the master screw.
Hi what is your set up for your mt - exhaust Full System - O2 sensor - decat - baffle in or out.. Or all stock set up... Ecu remap.. For Example. I have 22 plate decat 02 delete.. Mail in flash.. I have hunting idle with full exhaust system baffle in - o2 delete - decat - flash..
I was told doing throttle bodies sync would fix it.. But I'm still unsure unless it goes on the dyno.. Thanks for any info..
MT has full yoshi system - o2 sensor still intact for cruise control - no baffle - decat - Vcyclenut ecu flash - KN drop in air filter. No idle issues on my bike. hope that helps
OK thanks for info.. Possibly O2 sensor causing my issues probably should have left it on for my flash .. My ecu flash guy in UK told me to do throttle bodies sync.. Hence watching your video.. I'm on the fence as to sync or costly dyno to fix It .. On top of the flash cost. 😢.. Thanks for info anyway..
@chipwood67 The sync is easy to do. But getting down there can be tough, especially if you're like me and not a master bike mechanic. Just takes time and perseverance. You will need that protune tool for the actual sync job though.
You are missing the restrictors in the carbtune
Yea. I figured that out and put them in. It was much better afterward! Lol
6:14 Camera Boi!😂😂😂😂
Stupid Hero....I swear dude....
Yeah boi!
What are you doing to my comments section! 😆 🤣
I don’t understand any of this, maybe I’ll get there someday!
I still don't get it, but im going through the motions. Lol
Moore Mafia flash
Gonna go with Vcyclenut flash on this bike.
Dang I’m really late on this one🥲
Smh
And third!
They didn’t need doing
Second
'Promosm'