We use these all of the time as they are awesome - however yesterday we were working outside in -1 conditions and one shattered in half - we can only assume because it was so cold 🤷🏽♂️
Oval conduit set the wall chaser up to the same diameter as the conduit also use the ones with multiple blades saves knocking out the chase then the conduit just press fits into the chase then bang over with pva and multi finish or filler. Works every time no need to fix conduits
Hello from America, I'm an electrician for 30 yrs and enjoy watching your videos to see how things are done elsewhere. I am amazed how different we are when it comes to electricity and installation.
I ALWAYS suggest a non maintened E/L if the customer wants a light in the fuseboard cupboard. Theyre hilariously cheap these days compared to how they used to be
When you stand back, look and think how these/ our houses are plumbed, wired and modified in the process of home improvement it all looks so primitive.... and you don't know what lurks underneath. I knocked back the entire inside of my house back to brick, ripped out and put new floors in, insulated and re wired (found a figure of 8 loop in the process) and filled a mini skip with the debris that was underneath. Do it once....Do it right.
Now you see, I have a real internal conflict on box sizes. The sparks in me wants largest box possible for the working space, the structural engineer in me wants to minimize the amount of supporting structure being removed from the wall!
Use oval practically every day. Large head clout nails every time. If the brick / gobbo is hard then drill, red plug then nail into plug. your method will be way slower and more expensive (penny washers cost a bomb for what they are). Also, many people crack up the floor boards that have already been lifted thinking it is easier. but then you are dancing around the pipes as you found. I always try to get a fresh run up. Plenty of room then. It is a good effort but you can tell the team don't do rewires often.
Yes often you end up trying to do a bodge job to use 'already lifted' floorboards. Takes more time and more cable and is less efficient. We usually get out the circular saw as one of the first tools used on a rewire, to cut the T&G floorboards. If you're just adding one or 2 extra sockets sometimes pre-lifted boards can be easier. But for a full rewire, new route every time
@@DavidNelson1990 that's right. but if the customer doesn't want to rewire one room what do you do? convince them? refuse the job or rewire it at your expanse? you have to junction the feed to the room.
A great team Cory especially.Great to know the profit that can be made with a little help from UA-cam. Question the rewire doesn't look that big to many electricians that's why you were shy not under estimating. Good all round.
2 points on oval we always took the oval into the box,we usually had chases exact to oval size so no fixings were required as they just pinched in tight, no chance of rust spots either ,but if not Tc2 clips. Another old tip that might come in handy at some time,if you get plaster of Paris and mix a small amount with top coat plaster it will harden very very quickly. But for small chases ,box fixing etc can be done and repaired in less than a hour.We use to soak wall paper,peel back use the previous method ,then re stick wall paper
Never seen oval tube fixed like that, I always find good old plasterboard nails work just as good, and faster. Also if you squeeze the end of 20mm oval it will go in the box, no need for a grommet, plus if you need to pull the cables out at any point you won't damage the plaster.
@@mrgfromoxford8644 some of us get repeat business, then when we return to the property we have wired, it makes the job easier, and means you may not need to use joint boxes.
Yeah I dislike them, but they're quite common in the UK still. Our bathroom has a normal light switch (it's big enough that the switch is outside the zones) and the shower isolator is a wall switch high up in the same area
Two or even Three way bedroom lighting can be solved with Quinetic switches. I wish they were cheaper though so you simply had a wiring centre for each level of the house like a mini DB up near the loft hatch. Much easier than fecking about in roofs with the EVIL fibreglass.
I totally agree with you about the bosch flat wood bits. They go through the joists as if you're just drilling through air. They work well with a Dewalt Cordless drill.
Try irwins stubby wood auger bits. Well good to get a straight hole in the joists. My ones lasted about 4 years with just sharpening up if I end up hitting a nail. Just got new set. Loving it! All the best.
If you start doing higher end properties/developments you’ll find two way light switching by the bedsides commonplace (same idea as the pullcord all those years ago)! Must admit I avoid rewires these days, certainly occupied anyway. Much easier ways to earn your money!
Alternately, when it comes to fitting USB mains sockets, you just fit a 10mm socket spacer frame. Provided they have the same outline profile as the socket, they work pretty well.
Cool tip for a £10k 4 bedroom rewire I picked up when I first started in this game: Do a full rewire for the money. Don’t cut corners by reusing old cables 🤣🤣
I'm not hating.... I just can't see the logic when you could easily pull them down the couple of inches they're off the floor... mentioned about rewiring the in and out legs... just do the lot! it's 3 or 4 drops that total about 1m... hardly the need the plaster the whole room again... not hating or anything just something that doesn't make sense
Nice, thanks for the update and top quality work as always! Customer is always right and all that, but it seems nuts to me that they want to reuse some old cabling upstairs just to save on the cost of a bit of plastering - particularly given the decomposed state of the other similar cable. Some people want to save costs in the strangest places. Fantastic tip about the emergency light in the cupboard though, I may steal that idea...
I am on an a aprentership and a tool you shout get is a Makita 230v angled drill they are epic for drilling joist and paired with them drill bits is a Mach made in heaven 😀😍
Just a suggestion would you not consider repositioning the consumer unit to above where you are installing the trunking.(Semi recess in the new stud) This would remove the consumer unit from under the staircase. We would always try to move the consumer unit from the main escape area. I understand the DNO is still there but at least you have removed the main fire issue on your side. Lot handier bringing your cables back.
Nice job been using oval conduit for a long time now a lot easier. . Also I cone cut the holes in the back boxes a bit bigger then gives you more movement to play with when fixing the box with washers . 👍👍
The only tip I've found really helpful lately, that's not really to do with rewires, but more to do with adding downlights.... get yourself a stack of powerful neodymium magnets... ebay is a good source. wrap them in polythene or insulation tape to stop them marking ceilings or walls... you can literally map out the joist locations with them (sticking to the screws/nails). Also has located a hidden RSJ on more than one occasion!
From what I saw of the pipe it's a 22mm now unused gas pipe with a compression cap end on it so it probably could of come out, batten mounted in it's place, trunking run diagonally following the stairs making pulling cables in future easier. Especially if they decided to plaster over the boxing in and make it look like a flush wall from kitchen units to stairs with a set-back doorway. Always plan for the next job at a property which would make your life easier.
I use a laser level also takes 2 mins to set up if you know how. The problem with using a pre marked long spirit level is if the floor level is uneven around the room, so will be your sockets.😀
Oval conduit - generous blob of Gripfill every 30-40cm Marking out boxes - metal box with a small magnetic level inside Kitchen top cupboards should just unhook (if there is no cornice/plinth) 👌🏻
Do you just stop the conduit just before the backbox and have the cable unprotected between them with a rubber grommet in the box or do it some other way?
@@casecurityandelec if your chase is deep enough and you haven’t oversunk your back box you should be able to run in right to the knock out (assuming you went down the left/right and not directly in the middle). Conduit doesn’t protect the cable though and that is fine in the prescribed area. Having the conduit run right to the box though means a damage free rewire next time so that should be the aim in my book.
@@casecurityandelec plastic conduit buried in plaster will provide no protection against mechanical damage (drills, screws, nails). Neither does the metal capping really as it is so thin. This is why cables should only be run in the permitted zones. You can get protective conduit which is prohibitively expensive and may require chases that’ll be too deep on single skin walls. My preference would be the plastic stuff. It is easier to slide cables in and out in the future.
Hi Jordan great video as always, I had a similar thing with cable routes as your video, I decided to run the cables directly from under the the stairs to the floorboards above in the walls but outside of zones, covered with 3mm steel I think it was, it's in my next video on UA-cam
I Detest Pull Cord Switches! have you thought of using PIRs in Bathrooms and Toilets? Shower Isolatiors Pull switch should be nowhere near a Bathroom Door Preferably the isolator would be a normal switch outside of the zones obviously at apropret distance
Jordan.....you charged £10’400.00 mate. You paid all materials, all the blokes.....you paid yourself AND made an additional £1000.00 profit for your company. You then went on in a previous video to say you don’t feel that these jobs are worth it (like your high day rate and £1k company profit over 10 days isn’t enough), so you won’t be doing many more. And then in this video, you explain it was actually only a partial rewire. Ie: you reused some of the old cabling. A partial rewire to a standard 4 bedroom house: £10’400.00 😳 Come on mate....this must be a joke at this point?? 😂😂😂. Are you on a wind up or what? 😂 Company pricing policy: work out going rate for electrical work.....then double it. 🤣
Can anyone tell me why home oven ccts are 32A /6mm when the typical fan oven itself has a tiny connector block on the back that you can barely get 3 round red crimps on with 2.5mm cable if you are lucky.
What a bargain 10k and you get a emergency light and junction boxes in the floor.. oh I forgot you get 35mm back boxes And a pull switch in the bathroom. Must be Artisan quality then.
Little help with site lights if wanna invest then buy Makita dml810. Just got one for myself ( Plumber) for that late nights fixs no more hire after site lights. 👍
Been to quite a few houses and the sparkies shad run cables next to hot water pipes, one large house, you could sell a burning smel when we lifted the boards, and the cable was almost melted onto a very hot water pipe, went down to get the elderley home owner who said hed smelt burning for a few days, luckily he had an electrician booked to do some work next day and got him to sort out the cable runs. Another house, they had deep cut slots for pipes and cables almost half way through the ceiling joists,only realised as i stepped on it while laying loft flooring, so run cables and pipes seperately and use the smallest hole. slot required.
that's the problem if you can fill out certs keep all your records, niceic is happy that all car about, why checkatrade and all part p orgs are bit joke
Very nice with the penny washers do that myself though I tend to use regular conduit rather than oval. The cable run is quite sensible too though hopefully they don't plaster the route from under the stairs to the floor void in or pity the poor sod that has to pull new cables at any point, probably would of gone diagonal myself following the stairs given you can provide photographs with certification now. I was right when I thought it could do with re-plumbing, that heating system is dated with added odds n sods (would of been nice if someone had marked the gas pipe with gas tape, not big enough to require it but even so).
Looking good, as usual great content (Not watched fully yet). That chaser they gave you definitely wasn't good enough, I'd ask for a refund on the rental
Im no professional but having a room above and below on a circuit doesnt seem right to me especially with the price your demanding . Upstairs circuit and downstairs circuit. If you came and done my house for the money your demanding and starting saying things like its easier then id tell you no and if you insisted id give you money for what you had done and wished you well on your way .
There's absolutely nothing wrong with wiring houses that way, what a strange thing to get 'hung up' on. you would simply never know the difference under general use, the Consumer unit would be labelled to reflect that this had been done.
It doesn't fall foul of any wiring Reg(s) that I'm aware of, which is why it seems so strange to me that anyone would make such a point of objecting to it.
Good practice to have upstairs and downstairs on one circuit, image if downstairs circuit tripped you would be running extensions from upstairs to power essential sockets downstairs if a major fault occurred whereas the way Artisan has done it you only have to run an extension from next room
It uses less copper and less resistance I guess. No chance of the cable runners mixing up the circuits too! 😜 Fault finding must be a little more painful though I guess
10 grand for a fucking basic rewire and they wont pay to get one room plastered so you re use old wiring even though you keep pointing out evidence that the cabling is breaking down? lol 10 fucking grand and you cant be arsed to take kitchen cabinets of the wall? fucking hell 10 grand and you wont replace the two way pull switches with a switch at the bed? hahaha great comedy channel
Tool of the day! Bosch Speed Bit Set amzn.to/2Y0SSrE
We use these all of the time as they are awesome - however yesterday we were working outside in -1 conditions and one shattered in half - we can only assume because it was so cold 🤷🏽♂️
Chuck them in a Milwaukee hole hawg and it makes routes a breeze.
Oval conduit set the wall chaser up to the same diameter as the conduit also use the ones with multiple blades saves knocking out the chase then the conduit just press fits into the chase then bang over with pva and multi finish or filler.
Works every time no need to fix conduits
YES, tip right here worth knowing!
Friction fit. Good idea
In the old days we used a long scotch eyed auger and shot the stairs into the cupboard through the top stair joist.
Hello from America, I'm an electrician for 30 yrs and enjoy watching your videos to see how things are done elsewhere. I am amazed how different we are when it comes to electricity and installation.
This is uk 🇬🇧
Loving the emergency light, great idea and attention to detail.
Thanks!
Bundy used to do it
Lots of electricians do it. And have done for years. It common place in commercial and industrial installs
I ALWAYS suggest a non maintened E/L if the customer wants a light in the fuseboard cupboard. Theyre hilariously cheap these days compared to how they used to be
@@Spark101. Same here & I also fit a smoke alarm, here I have interlinked Aico fitted,gives me peace of mind..
When you stand back, look and think how these/ our houses are plumbed, wired and modified in the process of home improvement it all looks so primitive.... and you don't know what lurks underneath.
I knocked back the entire inside of my house back to brick, ripped out and put new floors in, insulated and re wired (found a figure of 8 loop in the process) and filled a mini skip with the debris that was underneath.
Do it once....Do it right.
Hoping you ran conduit for data ? :) (to upgrade to fibre in the future lol)
Have never bother with 25mm boxes, always prefer 35mm,even for light switches, gives you a bit more wiggle room.
I agree!
I fully agree stop using the 25mm boxes and with more space taken up by smart switches it’s the way to go.
Bit more chopping out ⚒️⚒️⚒️⚒️
@Ellis The DJ never seen them out of stock
Now you see, I have a real internal conflict on box sizes. The sparks in me wants largest box possible for the working space, the structural engineer in me wants to minimize the amount of supporting structure being removed from the wall!
Use oval practically every day. Large head clout nails every time. If the brick / gobbo is hard then drill, red plug then nail into plug. your method will be way slower and more expensive (penny washers cost a bomb for what they are).
Also, many people crack up the floor boards that have already been lifted thinking it is easier. but then you are dancing around the pipes as you found. I always try to get a fresh run up. Plenty of room then.
It is a good effort but you can tell the team don't do rewires often.
Hahaha you must be as old as me 😂😂😂
Yes often you end up trying to do a bodge job to use 'already lifted' floorboards. Takes more time and more cable and is less efficient. We usually get out the circular saw as one of the first tools used on a rewire, to cut the T&G floorboards.
If you're just adding one or 2 extra sockets sometimes pre-lifted boards can be easier. But for a full rewire, new route every time
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk You 38 too? Although the back and knees recon I'm about 60 🤣
@@notbadforasparky4791 55 in june my old china 🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳😂😂😂😂
If any of my lads tried using a junction box on a rewire they’d be gone!
Sounds like your heads up your arse
I wouldn’t expect junction boxes, or any old cable after rewires. Shouldn’t be having a customer telling you to reuse cable🤦🏻♂️
@@Wilkkid1 carry on playing the drums you bad virgin 🤦🏻♂️
@@BrandonTonner nah mate, you do sound like it.
@@DavidNelson1990 that's right. but if the customer doesn't want to rewire one room what do you do? convince them? refuse the job or rewire it at your expanse? you have to junction the feed to the room.
Screw and washer seems a bit labour intensive to hold in the oval conduit, I've use two or 3 D clips on a run like that.
A great team Cory especially.Great to know the profit that can be made with a little help from UA-cam.
Question the rewire doesn't look that big to many electricians that's why you were shy not under estimating.
Good all round.
Nice to see im not the only one with the 35mm boxes. I always insist on them for future proofing. Alot of people use the25s tho
2 points on oval we always took the oval into the box,we usually had chases exact to oval size so no fixings were required as they just pinched in tight, no chance of rust spots either ,but if not Tc2 clips.
Another old tip that might come in handy at some time,if you get plaster of Paris and mix a small amount with top coat plaster it will harden very very quickly. But for small chases ,box fixing etc can be done and repaired in less than a hour.We use to soak wall paper,peel back use the previous method ,then re stick wall paper
Never seen oval tube fixed like that, I always find good old plasterboard nails work just as good, and faster. Also if you squeeze the end of 20mm oval it will go in the box, no need for a grommet, plus if you need to pull the cables out at any point you won't damage the plaster.
Yeah because when doing a first fix on a house I’m always thinking of ways to make it easier when I come 50 years later 🙄
Great tip!
@@mrgfromoxford8644 some of us get repeat business, then when we return to the property we have wired, it makes the job easier, and means you may not need to use joint boxes.
Use to get pvc saddle clips for oval conduit years ago, tend to use fixed washered (15mm washer) head masonry nails
Clip the cable direct why do owt else ??
Interesting you still favor pull switches, they’re considered so 1950 where I am .
Yeah they are the logical choice in some situations where there’s not much space for a wall switch
Quinetic, much nicer than pull switch next to shower.
Yeah I dislike them, but they're quite common in the UK still. Our bathroom has a normal light switch (it's big enough that the switch is outside the zones) and the shower isolator is a wall switch high up in the same area
Great idea with the emergency light near the consumer unit👍👍, will have to remember that one
Two or even Three way bedroom lighting can be solved with Quinetic switches. I wish they were cheaper though so you simply had a wiring centre for each level of the house like a mini DB up near the loft hatch.
Much easier than fecking about in roofs with the EVIL fibreglass.
Love Quinetic switches
they'll get cheaper over time so maybe in 10 years it'll be the norm
@@stuartandrews4344 do they remain paired after a power cut? I've a customer asking me about their practically.
@@hedleywilliams392 Pairing mode is unaffected in a power cut. See this: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Quinetic/Quinetic_FAQ.pdf
Got to love old buildings and the challenges they throw up... also Awesome little tip for the back box, I'll give that a go next time, 👍
Thanks!
I totally agree with you about the bosch flat wood bits. They go through the joists as if you're just drilling through air.
They work well with a Dewalt Cordless drill.
Try irwins stubby wood auger bits. Well good to get a straight hole in the joists. My ones lasted about 4 years with just sharpening up if I end up hitting a nail. Just got new set. Loving it! All the best.
Good bits,Bosch also do stubby version of their speed bits, but hard to source here now.
Was talking about the back boxes the other day. Said the same about a bit more work but more room
If you start doing higher end properties/developments you’ll find two way light switching by the bedsides commonplace (same idea as the pullcord all those years ago)!
Must admit I avoid rewires these days, certainly occupied anyway. Much easier ways to earn your money!
What are these easier ways you speak of?
@@AllStarNES Jobs that don’t involve spending endless days chasing out walls and lifting floorboards to be honest, speaking from experience 😂
2 way intermediate one switch by each bed. With bedside lamps etc
@@davecowan9466 i wont do rewires unless the property is empty and gutted.just not worth the stress in my opinion
Alternately, when it comes to fitting USB mains sockets, you just fit a 10mm socket spacer frame. Provided they have the same outline profile as the socket, they work pretty well.
You can also use 16mm T+E clips to hold the oval in place.
Old school tip, or use galv band as is now the most common way!
I wouldn't chase the utility cupboard I would have used trucking
Cool tip for a £10k 4 bedroom rewire I picked up when I first started in this game: Do a full rewire for the money. Don’t cut corners by reusing old cables 🤣🤣
I'm not hating.... I just can't see the logic when you could easily pull them down the couple of inches they're off the floor... mentioned about rewiring the in and out legs... just do the lot! it's 3 or 4 drops that total about 1m... hardly the need the plaster the whole room again... not hating or anything just something that doesn't make sense
Does the overall height of sockets have to be within 120 cm on top of the kitchen top?
How much work would you estimate it would take to rewire a 2 bed flat? Second floor
For the oval trunking, why not just put a screw through the back of it into the wall. Or is it just a solid tube?
Its a solid tube, dont wanna screw through the cables!
Nice, thanks for the update and top quality work as always! Customer is always right and all that, but it seems nuts to me that they want to reuse some old cabling upstairs just to save on the cost of a bit of plastering - particularly given the decomposed state of the other similar cable. Some people want to save costs in the strangest places.
Fantastic tip about the emergency light in the cupboard though, I may steal that idea...
I am on an a aprentership and a tool you shout get is a Makita 230v angled drill they are epic for drilling joist and paired with them drill bits is a Mach made in heaven 😀😍
Gas ane electrical services separated ? (looking at that route under the stairs). Of course it will be fine when in trunking
Love the penny washer fix for the oval conduit. I will do that next week. Thanks very much for sharing.
Thanks glad you liked it!
Your crew is doing a great job !!
Thanks me Bear!
He wants them to work a bit quicker though 😂
Would you not move the board from under the stairs to the Kitchen ?
Use 11x22 clips for oval conduit, and a lot easier to drill joists with Auger bits, especially stubby ones and right angled drill.
Nice tips
Just a suggestion would you not consider repositioning the consumer unit to above where you are installing the trunking.(Semi recess in the new stud)
This would remove the consumer unit from under the staircase.
We would always try to move the consumer unit from the main escape area.
I understand the DNO is still there but at least you have removed the main fire issue on your side.
Lot handier bringing your cables back.
and should use pasterboard scrows, or galvanised ones to fix your capping, otherwise will rust and can leak through plastering ...
These Bosh drill bits kept breaking my arm when used with my drill. Then i found they were brilliant with my impact screwdriver.
I hate using an impact driver for drilling, it’s one of my pet hates
@@artisanelectrics Why?
Nice job been using oval conduit for a long time now a lot easier. . Also I cone cut the holes in the back boxes a bit bigger then gives you more movement to play with when fixing the box with washers . 👍👍
Great tip!
love the socket marker
We'd like to leave the floorboards exposed to sand them down if that's okay?
😳🤦♂️
Why remove a perfectly functional and cleaver bedroom pull switch 😱
I've no idea why these are now considered "old school", I have them in every bedroom in my house. But maybe that's because I'm also "old school".
@@davidfaraday3085 I'm adding them to my house. My 11yr old daughter thinks it's a brilliant idea.
Glad other people think the same. I added one in our bedroom. What do you do instead? Get out of bed?
More work but if the customer wants one I put a 2 way wall switch at a slightly lower level by the side of the bed
The only tip I've found really helpful lately, that's not really to do with rewires, but more to do with adding downlights.... get yourself a stack of powerful neodymium magnets... ebay is a good source. wrap them in polythene or insulation tape to stop them marking ceilings or walls... you can literally map out the joist locations with them (sticking to the screws/nails). Also has located a hidden RSJ on more than one occasion!
Might of been best to run cables in trunking next to pipe,would of just meant a small boxing 👍
Thanks
exactly
Yes, that's what I was thinking.
Yep. Super large white square trunking at an angle.
From what I saw of the pipe it's a 22mm now unused gas pipe with a compression cap end on it so it probably could of come out, batten mounted in it's place, trunking run diagonally following the stairs making pulling cables in future easier. Especially if they decided to plaster over the boxing in and make it look like a flush wall from kitchen units to stairs with a set-back doorway. Always plan for the next job at a property which would make your life easier.
Long spirit level with heights for sockets n switched pre marked on go round with level and mark without using tape measure- just one of my tips ;)
Try a laser level, you’ll love it!
@@davecowan9466 yes used for kitchens. By the time you set the level up I’ve already marked up the whole plot up buddy. Poor you 😂😂😂
@@Madman-ge2eb No need to feel sorry for me, you’ll get the hang of newer technology if you keep at it buddy 😂👍🏼
@@davecowan9466 thanks 😂😂😂😂
I use a laser level also takes 2 mins to set up if you know how. The problem with using a pre marked long spirit level is if the floor level is uneven around the room, so will be your sockets.😀
Oval conduit - generous blob of Gripfill every 30-40cm
Marking out boxes - metal box with a small magnetic level inside
Kitchen top cupboards should just unhook (if there is no cornice/plinth)
👌🏻
Nice tip thanks!
Do you just stop the conduit just before the backbox and have the cable unprotected between them with a rubber grommet in the box or do it some other way?
@@casecurityandelec if your chase is deep enough and you haven’t oversunk your back box you should be able to run in right to the knock out (assuming you went down the left/right and not directly in the middle).
Conduit doesn’t protect the cable though and that is fine in the prescribed area. Having the conduit run right to the box though means a damage free rewire next time so that should be the aim in my book.
@@kieranmccreedy271 nice one thanks for the reply, how does conduit not protect the cable though what do you mean?
@@casecurityandelec plastic conduit buried in plaster will provide no protection against mechanical damage (drills, screws, nails). Neither does the metal capping really as it is so thin. This is why cables should only be run in the permitted zones. You can get protective conduit which is prohibitively expensive and may require chases that’ll be too deep on single skin walls.
My preference would be the plastic stuff. It is easier to slide cables in and out in the future.
My latest rewire video had the exact same issue with how to get cables from under the stairs up to the top 😩 nightmare !
Hi can we see how you get your floorboard up with out damaging them please..
It’s a secret! Haha no it’s called pry bars
Cory loved them bedside light pulls, he’ll be sad to see them go 🤨😝. Nice walk around Jordan
Thanks 🙏
Great tips there mate, we normally use steel draw tape in a similar manner that you use the penny washers. Each to there own I guess
Hi Jordan great video as always, I had a similar thing with cable routes as your video, I decided to run the cables directly from under the the stairs to the floorboards above in the walls but outside of zones, covered with 3mm steel I think it was, it's in my next video on UA-cam
Thanks!
I Detest Pull Cord Switches! have you thought of using PIRs in Bathrooms and Toilets? Shower Isolatiors Pull switch should be nowhere near a Bathroom Door Preferably the isolator would be a normal switch outside of the zones obviously at apropret distance
Really useful series! Thank you
Use glav band around oval wavin another good way great video as alway
Nice tip thanks!
excellent backbox tip....
Another great video Jordan👍👍 ..will you be posting a part 2 of the job where the CU went on fire ?
Try doing Luke's trick don't chase into the box but drill behind then you can second fix
Jordan.....you charged £10’400.00 mate. You paid all materials, all the blokes.....you paid yourself AND made an additional £1000.00 profit for your company.
You then went on in a previous video to say you don’t feel that these jobs are worth it (like your high day rate and £1k company profit over 10 days isn’t enough), so you won’t be doing many more. And then in this video, you explain it was actually only a partial rewire. Ie: you reused some of the old cabling.
A partial rewire to a standard 4 bedroom house: £10’400.00 😳
Come on mate....this must be a joke at this point?? 😂😂😂. Are you on a wind up or what? 😂
Company pricing policy: work out going rate for electrical work.....then double it. 🤣
Can anyone tell me why home oven ccts are 32A /6mm when the typical fan oven itself has a tiny connector block on the back that you can barely get 3 round red crimps on with 2.5mm cable if you are lucky.
If they want an electric hob . With a oven I put a single socket instead of a cooker outlet under the worktop and plug in the oven
and I thought I was the only one installing emergency light by the CU at people houses
Several of us do,... i wish more would do it. It's convenient for the next spark too!
What a bargain
10k and you get a emergency light and junction boxes in the floor.. oh I forgot you get 35mm back boxes
And a pull switch in the bathroom.
Must be Artisan quality then.
is that how much he charged them? jesus
Wow You had hard work.. Thumb up!! Cheer!
minut 2..if trunking covered with a box, cables not run in safe zone anymore!
Would a smart system have been cheaper than chasing for switches Labour wise? Bungalows are so much easier
Little help with site lights if wanna invest then buy Makita dml810. Just got one for myself ( Plumber) for that late nights fixs no more hire after site lights. 👍
Been to quite a few houses and the sparkies shad run cables next to hot water pipes, one large house, you could sell a burning smel when we lifted the boards, and the cable was almost melted onto a very hot water pipe, went down to get the elderley home owner who said hed smelt burning for a few days, luckily he had an electrician booked to do some work next day and got him to sort out the cable runs.
Another house, they had deep cut slots for pipes and cables almost half way through the ceiling joists,only realised as i stepped on it while laying loft flooring, so run cables and pipes seperately and use the smallest hole. slot required.
Must be a very hot pipe! I see central heating pipes up against cables all time poor practice but with no damage.
Yeah sounds like they need to turn their water temperature down! 😂
@@lewis94uk Probably about 1 plus diameter along with a few other pipes, very old large hall
Galvanized clout nails don't rust that's the reason we use them
Surprised as a sparky you don’t have your own chaser and hoover as I’d imagine hiring one in is expensive regularly
We literally only do one or two rewires a year so it has never been worth buying one, but I did get one this week! Video to come! 😁
Also pull cords over beds could be quite dangerous if in child’s bedroom which is why blind cords come with warnings to tie up.
True
Your chasing looks not very deep for the conduit, the plaster will have a game bonding and skimming up to to level of the wall... Lol
The amount you're charging and you reusing old cables. You never cease to amaze me.
How much?
@@satsahota1765 12k I think
that's the problem if you can fill out certs keep all your records, niceic is happy that all car about, why checkatrade and all part p orgs are bit joke
@@markshaw1413 noooooo way!!!
@@satsahota1765 yes mate. Watch video one. Just a basic rewire
All that manpower £50k rewire 😂😂😂⚒️⚒️⚒️
We're all different i use rawplugs and large head galv clout nails either side of the oval just to pinch it in place 👍👍👍⚒️⚒️⚒️⚒️ jobs a goodun
Great video👍
Thanks!
Very nice with the penny washers do that myself though I tend to use regular conduit rather than oval. The cable run is quite sensible too though hopefully they don't plaster the route from under the stairs to the floor void in or pity the poor sod that has to pull new cables at any point, probably would of gone diagonal myself following the stairs given you can provide photographs with certification now. I was right when I thought it could do with re-plumbing, that heating system is dated with added odds n sods (would of been nice if someone had marked the gas pipe with gas tape, not big enough to require it but even so).
Looking good, as usual great content (Not watched fully yet). That chaser they gave you definitely wasn't good enough, I'd ask for a refund on the rental
same
Yeah I should have. I’ve got a new one now tho and it’s a beast! Video coming soon...
@@artisanelectrics Hmmm metabo triple wheel🤔
no no no when you do drops only use 20 mm 0r 25 mm tube and allround band
make more informative videos like this
Nice
Part 2 was pretty much the same as part 1.
Seen nothing yet that adds complexity or time to the usual house bash rewire ....
Why don't you run the cables along the pipe under the stairs? Instead of trunking 🤮
3_4k
Personally would rather watch more working than shirking!!!
bro
Best £13,500
bro I am job me
Im no professional but having a room above and below on a circuit doesnt seem right to me especially with the price your demanding .
Upstairs circuit and downstairs circuit. If you came and done my house for the money your demanding and starting saying things like its easier then id tell you no and if you insisted id give you money for what you had done and wished you well on your way .
There's absolutely nothing wrong with wiring houses that way, what a strange thing to get 'hung up' on. you would simply never know the difference under general use, the Consumer unit would be labelled to reflect that this had been done.
Absolutely nothing wrong with it and quite common around our area in existing installations. What Wiring Reg(s) does it fall foul of?
It doesn't fall foul of any wiring Reg(s) that I'm aware of, which is why it seems so strange to me that anyone would make such a point of objecting to it.
Good practice to have upstairs and downstairs on one circuit, image if downstairs circuit tripped you would be running extensions from upstairs to power essential sockets downstairs if a major fault occurred whereas the way Artisan has done it you only have to run an extension from next room
It uses less copper and less resistance I guess. No chance of the cable runners mixing up the circuits too! 😜 Fault finding must be a little more painful though I guess
10 grand for a fucking basic rewire and they wont pay to get one room plastered so you re use old wiring even though you keep pointing out evidence that the cabling is breaking down? lol
10 fucking grand and you cant be arsed to take kitchen cabinets of the wall? fucking hell
10 grand and you wont replace the two way pull switches with a switch at the bed? hahaha great comedy channel
Boy does he "rabbit on". Just get on with thd work for god's sake!!