VEVOR - Foredom Style Flex Shaft Grinder - In-Depth Look & Disassembly
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2023
- Get our very own VEVOR flex shaft grinder AND support me by using the links below. Use Promo Code VVSALE5 for 5% off.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The 230W unit, with the gold tool, is the one I have. Some of the other units DO NOT have the removable (Foredom Style) quick change tool. The one I have offers lots of power, it has the quick change end and the chuck will fit 1/8 and 1/4 bits. Availability varies.
As of Nov 2023, it appears the quick change (Foredom Style) tool is only available in Canada.
Canada - s.vevor.com/bfQzgB
USA - s.vevor.com/bfQzgF
NL - s.vevor.com/bfQzgO
EU - s.vevor.com/bfQB21
UK - Not Available
AU - s.vevor.com/bfQcxd
MX - Not Available
JP - Not Available
If you would like to support me and my projects, I have created a Patreon account. Regardless of the amount, every bit helps, will be put to use and is awesome motivation. Thank you so much !! / joel_a
I now have some awesome merch available here. spark-bolt-city.creator-sprin...
The Joel Arseneault UA-cam channel where I do mostly jetski stuff that is much more edited. / @loweredexpectations4927
Actual description: In this video I take a close look at the VEVOR hanging flex shaft grinder, talk about some tooling AND take it apart and look inside. At the time of posting this video, I have two videos showing this tool being used for porting and polishing. For a video of the tool in use, feel free to check these out. • ZXi 1100 Porting - Cyl... • KRASH KV997 Port & Pol... - Авто та транспорт
Thought I'd let you know. I've had the Vevor SR for about 5 years. Never had a problem. I service mine (lube, etc) as the manual says. I use Foredom flex shaft grease on the shaft. It was originally purchased for doing silver work but I have used it for everything including carbide burrs on steel. The silver handpiece (#30) is smaller than the 1/4 inch gold. Any foredom style handpiece made for the USA (flag or key they are called) can be used. I have quick release, hammer, engraving, etc. Do not buy Euro style, different connection. Look for the band with the ball bearing. If there is a clip it is Euro. The chuck style handpiece will come apart(unscrew). Check it before each use. It will screw back together. I put mild threadlock on mine.
Hope this helps. If not, I just bored a lot of people.
Love your YT vids. Keep it up!
Thanks for the detailed comment. It is appreciated.
I have had mine between 2 and 3 years... and also never had a problem. I have heard of people breaking them and I have to think that the are not using them properly, or they just happen to be defective.
I have seen the silver hand piece and considered getting one, but am always surprised at how well the gold one works. I have a 90º tool, but it is good to know you can also get engravers.
Thanks for the heads up about the Euro style. Mine has never come apart... other than me taking it apart out of curiosity, haha. Thanks again for the details.
I like the story about you and your dad porting engines on the kitchen table 👍
Haha... yeah. Fun times. My mother would be like "Not until you are finished eating" 🤣
Thank you. I was concerned about the price to quality, but you have destroyed that fear. I am looking forward to ordering one of these; which I will use your link to do so.
Hey, sorry I missed your comment !! I hope it has worked out for you, if you got one. I have heard a LOT of good things.
Thanks for this video!!! Helped me set mine up
Thank you for the wonderfully detailed review of the Vevor Flex Shaft Grinder. I've been wanting more information on this tool and you certainly supplied it! Finally, I know what type of connection the shaft has to the tools!!! If the hammer handpiece I'm looking at is compatible I'll be buying it through your link.
They just came back in stock for the US and Canada and Vevor is sending me another one for another video.
Thanks for the 'Heads Up' on your upcoming video. I'll be watching for it.
I love my new Vevor. I use all the Foredom handpieces.
Awesome. It's a great little tool. Many uses around the shop.
Thank you, Looks a lot like a direct copy of the Foredom SR, even down to the name...
I haven't bought 1 yet, I have a Foredom from a kit coming from mom...lol (88 and still taking care of me!)
I had a very similar if not exactly the same foot switch for a scroll saw. If you mount it to a piece of wood, or better a 1/4" chunk of steel. It will feel a lot better. Add a piece of grip foam for stabilizing wood you are routing or better, the thinner shelf foam for cabinets or toolboxes and it won't move around.
Sorry I missed your comment ! I have had a few people tell me that they like this better than the Foredom... but I can't say that it would last longer... that seems like a big ask.
I like to carry my foot pedal all around the shop. If that wasn't the case, then I would 100% fasten it to a block of wood. I almost did that a few months back, but then decided not to.
Good review!
Thanks mark !
My Canadian Tire-branded rotary tool started doing the "speeding up" thing last year. Nice to know that the genuine Dremel tools do the same thing. There must be a common defect in the circuit design.
Yeah. It's pretty annoying, but mine did it from day one and hasn't died yet, haha. I would guess that it has something to do with the type of circuit they use, yes.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have my Dremel 300 for 20 years and since day one it has always been finicky on speed 1, sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't and its speed can fluctuate when using it. For some reason all rotary tools have this issue because their speed control is based on frequency manipulation that is very hard to perfect it for any manufacturer. I bought the Dremel version of the Vevor which is 1.4 amps plus it comes with the flex shaft, I also have as in this video the Rotary Grinder 780W and I have the 780W die grinder too and they all costed me in total 135 ish? I mean even their Dremel version feels strong but the 780W tools are like 5 Dremels combined on steroids, whilst the Dremel 4300 only can cost just as much I paid for the 3 tools from Vevor... Back in the days 20 years a go it was Dremel only and I didnt even knew about larger version like Foredom and such so the Dremel was the only option. In india they are still producing and using the more industrial induction engine flexhaft and they are very reasonably priced, but I have not seen them importing them here, what a shame.
It looks like you could mount the foot switch to a 2x6 block of wood which should give it some heft. And the surface your foot contacts also looks kind of slippery. Maybe there is something you could spray on it to make it rubberized to prevent this?
As for the smaller handheld Dremel. . . I went through several of them (corded and cordless) and found them to be crap. What I eventually settled on was the Milwaukee M12 cordless rotary tool -- The on/off switch and speed dial are separate and not combined. It has great heft, variable speeds, balance and ergonomics. Yeah. It's a beast and I used mine all the time.
I use my foot pedal on top of a milk crate as I'm sitting on a stool when I use it, and I don't have too much troubles with it moving. As for it being slippery, I don't actually put my foot on it, I just put my toes on it as I feel that causes a lot less fatigue.
I have a TIG welder, and the pedal for that has a grippy top. Most of the time I put my whole foot on it... not sure why. I guess probably the shape of each.
Milwaukee makes some good stuff for sure !! I have used a lot of different tools, but never a cordless one, for porting or the type of work I do. I had one of those pencil air grinders for a while and it was very compact, but had no power at all.
With this tool, I still use a file, sandpaper and some other specialty tools for some stuff, but it is pretty versatile. One thing for sure is that you can never have too many different tools, haha. Options are always good.
i took the cable out of the dremel flexi shaft and coverd it in hight temp white lithium grease now it doesnt get so hot. so far its lasted 15 years. mind you im not porting metal cylinder heads Im building radio control model boats.
They are 100% better than using a file and sandpaper ! I did manage to port an engine with mine. Much better suited for wood, plastic and lighter materials, like you say.
My first porting job, with the dremel, I literally used it every day for a month, probably 8 hours a day or more.
@ oojimmyflip
😆 sounds like the intended purpose, they built it for 😁
Did that too, no problems with my clones.
Then i used it in the shop for planing welds in tight spots with tungsten cutters - oh, surprise, needed one shaft after the other 🤣
@@werner.x Interesting... so they don't like that much hard work.
Thanks for the great video. I’ve had a Foredom on my wish list for several years, but have decided to opt for the Vevor instead. Just made the purchase using your coupon code.
Fantastic video dude! Sooooo.. as for the pedal, I dropped a clutch drum on mine and it exploded. I then spent about a week learning more about 3d modeling, designed and printed a new one, installed all the springs and switch, and it didn't work. Found out that the switch must have also broke in the smashing. So went online to buy a new switch and they simply don't exist. It's part of a drill button switch, but not the same. Anyway, I just had to re order a new pedal off Amazon. I might still install the switch in the pedal that I designed as I did improve the leverage on the button to give me more detailed control. If it works well, I'll print you one too! I'm so happy with mine!
Oooh one other thing, my 90° thingy, only fits my long bits. I need to figure out how to get the short bits in there for the transfers on my scooter cylinders. But the collet is super hard..
Off to your other channel to see your porting on the X2!
HAHA.... Oh no... Note to self ... don't drop things on foot pedal. That totally sounds like the luck that I would have, but I haven't dropped anything on mine ...yet.
I'm confused... It only fits the long bits ? They are a different size shank ? Thanks for stopping by... see you on the JA channel, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 they all say they're the 1/8th size, but the short ones and all my sanding ones don't fit. I haven't actually accurately measured any of them, but I need to. New pedal shows up this week, and I'll get to porting my scooters! :)
@@dustinwild I'm guessing that some are metric and some are really 1/8. Mine fit well... but I'm not sure what they are or aren't, haha.
Good video. Did the right angle drill work for you? Do you know if it has metal or plastic gears?
The right angle tool works well. I have taken it apart and it has metal gears.
I just got the 780w version using your link,and am wishing I didn't just buy a new Dremmel two weeks ago. On a side note,Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner Gel is very good at removing rust in the Vevor ultrasonic cleaner,and is very inexpensive.
Awesome ! I hope you saw my note in the description about the larger version ? I don't think it has the quick change ends ...It seems to have a very heavy duty shaft, but I'm not sure that you can get quick change tools for it.
Oh man, haha... can you return the Dremel ?
I have heard that about toilet bowl cleaner and was going to try it... I thought I had some extra from costco, but apparently I use a lot of toilet bowl cleaner, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927just got the 780W version. does come with a quick change handle
The cables break on flex shaft tools if you’re using carbide bits and the suddenly get stopped, flex shaft tools are excellent for cartridge roll sanding, this has been my experience.
Yeah... snagging bits is very hard on any flex shaft. I have done at least 3 porting jobs and cut up lots of carbon fiber and fiberglass without any shaft issues.
I have heard of people breaking these, so maybe it am just much more gentle than the average person. I had a Dremel flex shaft before this, and even though it is much smaller of a shaft, it lasted for years without failing.
I use a old sewing machine on my Dremel for variable speed.
Right on ! Any variable pedal should do the trick.
Do you know where I can buy the a inter flex shaft cable for a 780w vevor flex shaft rotary tool. Have the 780w on the way and want to know just in case I break one. Can not get an answer from Vevor. Thank You Richard PS Good vido thanks for info.
I'm sorry, but I don't know. I have never actually seen the 780w version in person. I had a friend get the 780W version and he ended up returning it, because the tool is not the same quick change as the one I have... apparently.
Foredom do sell a metal foot speed control. It would put the kit , beyond the price for many users.
My plastic foot peddle works great.😅
I agree... I have not had a single issue with the foot pedal, other than it feeling a little cheap and sometimes it moves around because it's so light, and I don't fasten it to anything.
@@loweredexpectations4927 , there are two holes on the base plate for screws. One can screw on a piece of wood. Best to make it big enough for your heel.
Is the footswitch a true variable switch (press from low to high revs)?
Don't want on & out switch rev.
Yes, it is infinitely variable from zero to top speed, and is quite smooth. That is one of the nicest thing about this tool compared to my old dremel.
@@loweredexpectations4927 You stated you got 230W. I decided/ordered the 780W & used your promo code.
I think more power is better than less power. Strange, the 230W costs more than 780W from Vevor.
Thank you for your reply & thank you for your honest reviews.
Thanks great vid and stories, re Dremel I'm in Australia and have had 2, the last one only about 3yo and very little work. My view is they trade on an undeserved reputation of trusty tool or is it just the marketing? Very much for the amateur/light work hobbyist. I'm looking to buy a flex drive myself and just found the same brand as yours for $80A not sure of its features, but I'll check it out.
RIght on... I think you are right... The Dremel brand has made a name for itself but just makes stuff for light occasional wood working or very light metal work. I have not used my dermel since getting my new tool... and the new one gets a fair amount of use.
I just got foredom sr damn chuck fell out 10 seconds to the first touch to wood
I have heard of this happening to a few people with both this tool and the actual Foredom unit... I have been told it is a taper lock and you can just smack it back on 🤷♂️ Hasn't happened to me yet.
What's the wording to look for to find the burrs for cutting softer materials?
Great question. "burr set for aluminum" or "aluminum cutting burrs" You should be able to see form the photos of the tool that the spacing between cutting edges is at least twice as far apart as for steel.
I have exactly the same unit bought before you were affiliated with Vevor or ever talked about it. So far I have broken 2 flex shafts with it but cheap replacements can be found on ebay for as little as $10 if you don't mind waiting for it to come from china... I hate the foot pedal also and replaced it with an ordinary router variable speed control since I normally just set it to a particular speed and use it without having to control my foot to maintain a speed. For me, I find this works out much better. I noticed you said you made your own mandrel for the cone sanders, are they even available to purchase with the extended length shaft like yours? Totally invaluable for smoothing out porting work and I've yet to get any. So far the only thing I used mine for (mostly) was to drastically clean up my pump stator which resulted in a substantially noticeable improvement. You can fill far less vibration. Coming from the pump area as there is far less cavitation.
Wow... you must be using it a lot, haha. Mostly porting or just random stuff ?
I know the whole idea of the flex shaft is to give you freedom of movement, but I try to be really aware of not bending the shaft too much in operation ...I have noticed a few times that it will start ... oscillating inside of the shaft if the bend on the cable is sharp and the load on the tool is high.... I immediately stop and reposition. I have heard others talk about shafts breaking as well and almost bought a few as spares when I got mine. Maybe I should.
I have heard others say they hate the pedal as well. Personally I really like it. I rarely keep the same speed. Recently I have started to place my foot on the rung ( is that a word) of my stool, and put the pedal on a milk crate so my foot rocks on the stool. Hope that makes sense.
I made the longer mandrel because I couldn't find a long one for a reasonable price and delivery time... I think I found a few while deep into a search.
Oh yes.... I had totally forgotten that I also ported one of my pumps as well, haha... I've used it for a lot of stuff already. It does make a big difference.
@Lowered Expectations I really don't use my wannabe Foredom that much. The pump was the only big project and beyond that it was just random things on a case by case basis. I guess I'm just hard in stuff... but both times the failure point was where the braided steel cable gets crimped into the aluminum feral (the part that clamps onto the "D" shaft of the motor. If I were you I would pick yourself up a spare flex shaft to keep on hand, It is cheap enough and from my experiences you will likely need it at some point. As for the foot pedal sounds like you got a system that is working for you and I can see in some situations it would be nice to have the. Variable control on the fly. For me I found setting it to a rpm that is the right speed while under load it is easier to "set it and forget it" - just a matter of personal taste there.
@@AtimatikArmy Right on... good info. It's nice to hear it from someone like you instead of just a random internet comment. I will see what I can do about getting a replacement shaft.
I can also see your side of it, wanting to set a speed and leave it there... I just find that when using burrs, I tend to run at a pretty low speed for skimming out casting marks, but if I get to a spot where there's a lump or seam, something that requires more material removal, I will go at that more aggressively, and like to speed it up a bit. I can totally see it being a preference thing.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I did break some shafts also, but it was on these Dremel clones, whilst planing welds on steel parts.
When the cutter binds suddenly, even if it just slows down at overload, the motor twists the shaft and if this happens several times, it finally breaks.
Don't know, if this is a thing with this stronger tool, but stocking up with a replacement on occasion isn't wrong.
@@werner.x I guess I am just a gentle soul, haha. I have had the binding issue with my Dremel a few times, but this new tool seems a lot better. I can totally see how they would fail ... due to the way they are wound, there is a weak point... I'm hoping mine stays together !!
Hey man I been following your channel on the used motor oil stuff, also I left the comment about you running out of your buddies life last week....you should check out "Merlins old school garage" and "Fab Rats" channels, they are taking a bunch of old 80s and 90s jet skies and are going to try to ride them 300 miles from Kansas city to St Louis on the Missouri River what could go wrong right.....just wanted to share this with you knowing your into the watercraft stuff. Keep up the good work and don't let your fingers poke thru the paper lol
HAHA... that sounds like an awesome trip !! I will have to check it out some time... not sure that I will have time as I'm currently running two YT channels and starting up my summer business... trying to figure out how I'm going to manage this all summer ! haha.
What is the part number, or name for the right-angle attachment? I bought this tool based off your review and I am quite pleased with it but I do not like the supplied handle. I was doing some hoggin out of some aluminum and the whole chuck just fell out. I thought it broke but upon closer inspection I noticed that it is a compression type connection, so I removed the bit and took my 1lb dead blow hammer to it and it seems to hold fast. I need a right-angle attachment for doing fret polishing and other Lutherie jobs. Please respond, thank you.
The 90º tool that I purchased is from Amazon Canada and is listed as "currently unavailable" however, there are many others listed as something like "Gralara Elbow 90 Degree Handpiece Kit Rotary"
I have actually heard of that happening to one other person recently, the chuck falling off. Typically jacobs chucks are pressed onto a taper. If seated properly they stay on quite well, so hopefully your dead blow solved this.
The right angle comes in very handy, for sure. It would be nice if Vevor sold accessories, or offered this as an extra.
Aliexpress, 90 degree flext shaft
I have the same 90 & it’s not bad for the price.
The mechanical nerd part of me doesn't like the way it sounds and I'm guessing that the gears aren't very high quality... My plan is to never try a really high end one, so that I can continue to use this one, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 ya I agree. I dropped some gear oil into mine but ya the gears sound So so.
@@loweredexpectations4927 What is he talking about? 90?
@@werner.x The 90º angle attachment.
@@werner.x shown @ 20:54
I'm leaving this comment to increase engagement on your latest video, but also to request a diesel heater with nichrome wire in the burn chamber video for diesel alternatives.. or running at lower hz than typically possible stable (what I'm interested in lol). You need an adjustable controller though :)
Haha... Thanks for the comment and the diesel heater suggestion.
As far as i get out of my diesel heater experience of countless hours of continuous running, i'd say, the factory lowest setting is the lowest one you feel kind of warmth coming out.
Any less and you don't need a heater, then two candles will do the job.
Also - there has to be some generated heat for the whole thing to be warm enough to operate properly.
No use to have condensation inside the heat exchanger going on.
The setting, i lost my smaller dog with, was lowest setting, stupidly enough with exhaust turned to the top side and then letting it run for weeks.
Only in lowest setting you get fuel dripping out then.
And that slowly evaporating diesel did poison us, me and two dogs, undetected all winter long, caused liver inflammation and death to the smallest one.
A little more heat and nothing happens, when you install it the wrong way. That fooled me a long time with several heaters.
But aside from that problem, seriously, a 5KW chinese heater at lowest stock setting doesn't overheat anything, as long as it's cold enough for heating at all.
@@werner.x I remember you mentioning your dog before and the toxic fumes... that's rough.
I feel like I have a long way to go with the diesel heater testing. I may end up making a completely custom unit next winter.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam
I did mention it here for Mark Davis. Somehow his name/link doesn't show in the answer, don't know yet, why this sometimes works and sometimes not.
Because i wanted to tell him, that it's no use to try to let a heater as cool as possible, but maintain the flame burning at any costs.
There simply are some physical reasons not to do that.
So, there is some wrong challenge in his request.
I'd suggest these boxed tent heaters with candles and heat exchanger for lesser heat. They are all over youtube.
He could use oil lamps instead of candles and fill their reservoir with his old engine oil. Using waste oil or old fat for heat and lighting by burning it with a wick is a prooven concept for 1000s of years. But the wicks do need maintainance too - of course. The dirtier the oil, the more often.
Looking forward to a specialized real waste oil shop heater. Go for it - this Diesel heater conversion for real use is a dead end street, demanded or not.
I'm planning myself to build one.
One, that get's cool enough exhaust gas, that i can suck it through a fan and blow it through the wall with my 25mm diesel heater exhaust hole.
Landlord don't like it, if i turn his double brick wall into swiss cheese - and fire insurance plus building codes doesn't allow a proper chimney here too.
But there are some unclear private things ahead, i may not be able to do so, we'll see.
@@werner.x Yes, I realize the comment was for Mark, but I thought I would chime in anyway, haha.
I have had a few others recommend boxed tent heaters and have seen a few videos. They are quite interesting. When I was young we had Kerosene lanterns for when the power went out, but we had a wood furnace and stove, so we had some heat even if the power went out.
I like the idea of experimenting with my current diesel heater, but it has some pretty obvious limitations, so we will see what happens.
Hopefully you are creative enough to find a way around your problems... I think so.
Do you recommend lubricating the flex shaft?
I haven't lubed mine and haven't had any issues. I lubed the on on my old Dremel and it would make a huge mess.
If you are constantly running it at really high speeds... I would recommend some very light sewing machine type oil... otherwise I say no.
@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks. I saw one of the posts here that someone used high temp white grease. And another content creator said they used graphite powder. I won't be using mine every day, and mainly for sanding and carving wood and etching stones.
@@jerrysrockinphotos The reason I say to use a thing oil is because even oil causes some drag. Over a few feet, lithium grease or a thick oil may have enough drag to cause an issue.
Graphite is better on flat bearings surfaces, from what I understand. Something with a constant contact patch, and this is not the case between the cable and housing. I may work fine. I don't know.
A thin oil won't cause a lot of drag and will always be present between the contact areas, where it is needed, in this case. This isn't something that you want to pour down the cable or spray on. You would drip soeme on, give it a wipe with a rag and assemble it.
I, of course, could be wrong. These are just my thoughts.
I want it
Then COME AND GET IT ... haha. They are only like $70 in the US... crazy. They are $98 here.
I lost my chuck key. How can I find a new one? Because I don't know how many inches :(
That sucks ! Search "Foredom style chuck key" I was able to find them on aliexpress as well as amazon.
@@loweredexpectations4927 oh thank you very much.
hey man how do u know what handpiece fits the rotary tool from vevor?
Hey, Julian.
Vevor sells a bunch of different tools, and only a few of them had the quick change tool on the end. When I posted this video, they were available from all of the places listed in the description, but as of now, it appears the only Canada has the quick change style.
Vevor does not advertise this feature / interchangeability, so I only know because my unit (Canadian 230W) has the quick change, and a buddy of mine got a 750W and the end wouldn't come off.
If you have one of the quick change tools, (the tool just pulls off), this is the Foredom Style tool. You can search for that.
If you have one of the other types, you may have to do a lot of research to find something. I'm not even sure if they make them.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I noticed the tool u had on the vid had a keyway to the handpiece. and another guy on youtube said the foredom had a square.
@@julianlaustsen1991 Perhaps when he said it had a square, he meant it had a key / keyway. I just found a Foredom cable on amazon and it has the same cable end as my tool. I will send the link in another response as sometimes UA-cam blocks comments with links.
@@julianlaustsen1991 If you haven't figured it out, I responded accidentally logged into my other account.
I just bought one and the first time trying it the chuck flew off(came out of the orange handle) and could've hurt somebody. Is it suppose to come off and is there a way I'm suppose to tighten it, or is it defective?
That sounds defective to me. I took mine apart shortly after purchasing it, but that was over two years ago, so I don't recall the exact assembly.
I would contact them right away and tell them it is broken.
That's wha tI thought. Thank you for responding so quickly! I'm going to get a replacement and give it another shot! @@loweredexpectations4927
Isn't it a taper fit chuck? Just clean the taper and give it a solid thwack and it should seat?
@@scod3908 I believe this is the case, but I'm not sure. All jacobs chucks that I have seen are taper fit, but mine has never come off, so I don't know. If it came off, there is a chance that the taper is damaged / out of spec.
The EU-Model shows the silver handpiece too. Only the 750W-Version shows the golden one. But i'm wondering, if the 750W isn't too bulky and the shaft too stiff to be versatile.
One don't need a whole horsepower for delicate detailing, even if it's steely stuff.
And if, how stiff will the shaft have to be not to snap when it comes to deliver that horse?
Silver and golden handpiece connector area both show the same ball and spring design.
Therefore to me both seem to function likewise.
I'm so tempted to buy one, but i just ordered other useful tools and have to stop there.
Do you get more perfomance out of these jet ski engines with porting work?
I'm not sure if you can go by the photos or if the color means it is quick change or not. My friend, Dustin, got the wrong one and returned it for the one he wanted, without issue.
I think the 750 watt one is overkill, but I suppose it depends on what you are doing with it. I personally didn't need more power and like the flexibility of the one I have.
The 750W one Dustin got had the same ball detent and it would come housing would come off (from what I remember) but the inner shaft did not just slide out like on mine.
Perhaps you can post a question on the site asking if the specific one has the Foredom style quick detach tool. I'm not sure if they are the same country to country.
There is a LOT to be gained from porting a jetski engine. Some of the performance comes from allowing for better flow (smoothening the ports) and some of the power comes from slightly altering the engine timing by changing the port height and shape.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I see. Didn't think about the timing at all.
@@werner.x Yes... with two cycle engines the placement of the ports is what determines the timing. The more you raise the exhaust port, the more you can / must rev the engine to make power. Of course, all of this has to work within the limits of the design of the exhaust. The exhaust will be tuned to a specific RPM, and if your engine is tuned too far above or below that point, you will actually lose power.
Very cool vevor ... Wink wink 😉
This is a special Vevor cool tool.
Can’t find 90 degree handle on Amazon
I suppose it depends where you live. I just found one in Amazon Canada and another at a place called phyhootool ... $60
Wondering if can shoot me a price
Hello. I'm not sure what you mean. Price varies by country. I have links for some countries in the description, below the video. You can also visit Vevor.com and then choose your country.
It’s now $52. I’ve got a Fordom. It cost about $365. I bought one of these simply because it was so cheap and looked just like my Fordom. Frankly, this is better. The Fordom is 18,000 rpm. This is 25,000. But as it’s 50Hz, it’s actually about 28,000 max. This is also about three times as powerful at a stated 780 watts. There is no switch on mine, so no reverse. It just comes with the floor pedal switch. So far, little vibration from the 1/4” chuck handle.
Yeah, the higher the speed the better. I use a lot of diamond tools and with diamond (and carbide!) the higher the speed the better. I use small air grinders at 80,000 and even that isn’t always enough, so I have a dentist air turbine at 300,000 rpm. That’s the only tool that allows you to work without having to press down on the work. So yes, the higher the speed the better.
Overall, this is crazy. A friend bought one after I did, and he’s very happy with it. I may buy another so that I can have these things in all three shops. I do have the small shafted Dremel, and have had that for over 10 years with no problems. By the way, the case is cast zinc alloy, likely some sort of Zamak alloy. Zinc is used for this as it’s stiffer than aluminum and melts at a lower temp.
About the foot switch. The standard one that comes with the Fordom is about as cheap and chintzy as the one from the Vevor. I haven’t taken any of them apart, so maybe the speed control on the Fordom is better, but maybe not. You can buy a cast iron one from Fordom for a lot more money, if it seems worthwhile.
I thought that I had responded to this comment already... Oops.
Thank you for sharing such a detailed experience ! I still use mine frequently and love it more and more every time.
Haha... how many of these does one man need ?! I did notice that the case had a ring to it that sounds different than aluminum. It being zinc explains that.
If I ever have an issue with my foot pedal, I will replace it... but it is holding in there and does exactly what I need it to ... I am very pleased.
I dont understand why their 230W version is actually bit more expensive than their 780W flexshaft version that looks even more beefier than this one...
Yes, it doesn't seem to make sense. A buddy of mine purchase the 780W unit and said that it did not have a removable tool... He returned it and got the 230W version.
@@loweredexpectations4927 thats strange because I can see from the pictures on their website that the handpiece is exactly the same as the 230W version and it has the same US connector as the 230W version
Are the vevor and foredom handpieces interchangeable, and can they be connected to a dremel ?
Vevor has some Foredom style grinders.
The exact one that I have, is interchangeable with the Foredom tools.
They sell some that are similar to mine, but not the same. I can not say if those are Foredom compatible or not.
The Dremels that I know if are not compatible. You may be able to purchase or make an adapter, but I am fairly certain that there is no direct swapping of handpieces.
@@loweredexpectations4927 can I assume the tabletop base made by foredom will work with the vevor unit?
@@metal75801 I can't see any reason why it wouldn't. The hangers look identical.
that cast aluminium isn't solid though, drop it on a concrete floor from 1.5m and it's prolly gonna crack.
Plastic is generally more impact resistant than aluminum... definitely not a good idea to be dropping this on a concrete floor at all.
That being said, I'm not sure where you get the idea that this isn't solid. Did you see that I took it apart. It is built pretty solid. Way more so than any modern tool I have ever seen. I have also had at least 3 Foredom owners tell me that this is actually built better than the Foredom... My guess is that this is for the drive assy and not the shaft and tools.
Looks like the dentist's tool!😂
It does... That's a horrible thought, haha.
230 W is 1.5 times more expensive than 780 W version, wth - is that a commercial fee? :)
HAHA ! ... I have noticed that the pricing doesn't make a lot of sense. Tool availability changes by region / country, so I'm not sure about your example. My buddy Dustin got one of the larger ones thinking it would be better, and it didn't have the quick change tool. He ended up returning it and getting the same one I got.
Both of us purchased these tools before I was affiliated with VEVOR in any way and just got them because they are great tools for the money.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Less is more - Vevor took it seriously ;)