I just recently got the magician x, and I love it... It just works. All of the same design aspects of this model that you're reviewing but just in a smaller size. I haven't had to deal with customer service yet, but pre-sales conversations through the chat online we're very timely and helpful.
I've been running a Magician X for MONTHS without any trouble. Zero failed prints. Auto leveled ONCE and never touched it again. The Ender 3 I had for a couple of years was a non-stop nuisance that almost put me off the hobby. The Magician X print quality is literally beyond belief for its price ($230). No tuning or tinkering was needed. Now I'm considering getting a Mingda Max for bigger prints.
The 5-pin header next to the CPU labelled "SWD" is the software debugging/programming port. The 2x4 connector, although unlabelled, is probably for an ESP-based Wifi module.
Mingdas customer service is very good - slow due to the time difference and the fact they ask you to through step by step trouble shooting = 1 day at a time (even if you know the issue). But they stand by the product and have replaced a couple items on my Magician X printer (which is an amazing first printer).
I actually really liked the ribbon cable setup. I know some folk have it out for ribbons of any kind, but it's a creative way to solve a common problem, and I think it's way more elegant than the much more common cablechain.
I don't have one of these but I have two Geeetech Chinese printers have received first class customer support including a free replacement glass bed when I couldn't get it levelled, and a free BLTouch. Too many people disparage Chinese manufacturers without any experience of them.
I bet rep rap firmware can handle that hall effect probe. They have support for pretty much any type of probe, and hall effects function very similar to strain gauges. Personally I don't see a point in screwing with marlin anymore. My reprap devices are just so much easier to manipulate.
This printer had been great thus far for me. There is a lot of stringing though. I eliminate most of it by lowering temp but i am not there all the time to do it. What settings have you used to deal with the stringing besides the temp?
5:12 Looks like a wifi connection. The motherboard is a STM32407ZET6, 512KB flash, 168MHz. It's supported by Marlin, but you will need to figure out the pinout.
I haven't had the Anycubic in my hands. I can't say. Because you are a noob I think you should start with the lowest cost best performing printer. It's the least risk to you wasting your hard earned money. Unless you really need the volume of these large format printers just get an Ender3. Apparently Microcenter is selling for $99 right now. Also the standard version sells for ~$180 on the official Creality website.
Had nothing but issues with 3D printer warrantees. My first printer was a Monoprice Select Mini Pro (Which happens to be a rebranded Malyan M200 v3). No parts support from Monoprice and they don't even sell it anymore. It just collects dust now because it is impossible to level. Second printer is an Anycubic MegaX. Have had nothing but issues with it randomly stopping prints. While it was still in the warranty period I had the parts cooling fan die, they refused to respond to my emails, so I replaced it myself. A few weeks ago, I had the cable going to the hotend literally burn up, THIS time my email to support got a response, to which they told me that the printer is out of warranty, and they sent me a link to the replacement parts I needed to buy. The tone felt like they were telling me to 'go forth and procreate' - to put it nicely. Ordered the parts they linked on Feb 24th - today is March 13th and it hasn't even SHIPPED yet. My 3rd printer in an FLSUN Q5. Works great. No issues. If I could trade my POS MegaX for a Magician Pro, I would do so in a heartbeat. As it is, I don't even feel comfortable selling or giving it away. Same with the MPSMP, the cheapest Ender 3 clone would be better - at least there are parts out there to fix/upgrade those.
I have the same problem with mingda D2, its a very good printer and customer support is responding but there in no information on which motherboard firmware should I use or marlin configuration as my wiw filament sensor is not working and the reviews I saw had a port for bltouch, mine does not, its a completely different motherboard, I cant even do babystepping.The customer support is responding but its not helping me solve a basic issue. And the port you were talking about is for an ESP-01 wifi modult, just check esp 3d and you "MIGHT" be able to get that working, its the same one as btt uses sometimes.
If you let the bed cool down I think your prints will come off somewhat reasonably using a sharpened single bevel flexible putty knife. Depending on the filament type you are using there are bed adhesion products which will make this more or less easier. If you really find that you are struggling, you can purchase a large flex plate like I showed in the video and just install it over the top of the glass.
@ 5:11 in the video, I'm shouting: WIFI i.e., a connector for an ESP8266 module. If the case is metal, then I assume an external antenna would be a must (ok, the box is plastic, but the module would still be sandwiched between a metal plate at the bottom and the bed above - not ideal) and even then the functionality of such a WIFI extension isn't great because of the slow link with the main board (and hence the SD-card storage). @18:48 in the video, I cannot believe what I'm hearing... using a PTFE-lined hotend up to 265C? You want to get neurotoxin poisoning? Sure, the amount of toxin being released will be limited (it needs to get outside of the hotend first) and will not immediately make you ill and it will be very hard to trace or proof the cause of any effects that might show up afterwards, but why take the risk?
so, lets say you are loading filament into the printer while it is off, and you push down on the gantry, what do you think would happen without the belt at the top?
Mingda always spanks the the rest. I've been waiting for this review. I'm waiting for Sam to get this thing on Amazon cus it's over 300 bucks in shipping alone....so I'm waiting lol
The white box around that header suggests to be that it’s a WiFi module port for one of those esp32 or whatever that thing is. Too lazy to look that module up 🤣
I don't usually comment on videos. But I have to in this case. How is this a great printer, considering it's 800$? The entire thing is full of plastic parts, and the most concerning location is at the bed v-slot wheels. There are MUCH better alternatives out there for close to half the price. No way this is worth 800 USD. And you also mention that this printer doesn't rely on cloned components. Did you take a closer look to the print head? Or the touchscreen interface? Or the ribbon cable setup? Let's be honest here :)
Many proprietary parts, very cheap looking plastic in positions where it shouldn‘t be, releveling before every print because of the not tensionable z stepper belt connector (you can just delete the belt), dual motors and connected z axis which are fixed at the top have the tendency to wobble (china leadscews are not straight), no anti backslash nuts, a freaking 400x400 glass plate with over 1,5kg, a leveling system where the whole gantry is put under pressure (even if its minimal) and a cooling fan with 5mm air puffer behind it? And this for over 800$?! You can buy 5 (five!!) standard Ender 3 for this and these are still good designed and usable with a wide variety of parts. I know, they have a smaller build plate. But this Mingda machine IS NOT WELL DESIGNED in any case.
I will never forgive the Prusa fanboys/sockpuppets/whatever-they-are for the 4 years of hate they have visited upon me. Even if these attacks were orgainic (I doubt it) and weren't directed by Prusa, Prusa could have stopped it at any time by releasing a simple statement such as: "Please don't attack DPT on our account. With a media presence roughly six times as large as his, and many allies who can come to our aid should the need arise, we are more than capable of defending our company against any untruth he is spreading. As a critic in this space he is entitled to his opinions. We will continue to make the best printers for all the Makers out there." The company masquerades as the savior of open source hardware all the while swallowing up every open source project with any value and renaming it "Prusa" eg Slic3r is now Prusa Slicer. "But it's open source. Anyone can use it." Oh, yeah? Go ahead and try. You will be murdered by the hoard of internet sentiment accusing you of copying Prusa. If you touch Prusa's technology your brand will suffer a fate similar to my channel. No other company can use any open source project once Prusa claims it as his/their own. But I'm supposed to capitulate to your desire that I leave the poor 3DPrinterCompany/Man alone or else you will remove compliments. After the depths of trolling I've endured what makes you think your conditional "compliment" has one iota of value? You are insulting. Go back to the Prusa forums. I don't want you on my channel.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Yeah, well, OK then. You missed the whole thing. My compliment was sincere. Your content is much more enjoyable when you stick to the topic, and aren't playing the marter. And you haven't just singled out Prusa, in your attacks. When you pointed out my generous oversight, what was I supposed to do? My retraction was tongue in cheek. You then took it to a whole new level. I was actually thinking you might have turned a corner, and was looking forward to more content that stuck to the point, but I guess the joke was really on me. So I will oblidge, and cease to give the rantings of a mad man any further consideration.
Fair enough... Wait, no it's not. After 4 years of abuse, I AM fixated on Prusa. These wounds will never fully heal, and this still feels like a battle to the death with me facing an army of ill behaved cheaters. They are pretty quiet at the moment because I'm winning. I'm winning because I'm right. You want me to just let it go. How about some restitution. Then maybe I'll think about it. Prusa's army of trolls taints everything related to 3D Printing on the internet. They are pervasive. They have set that company up as the company to which all other 3D printers must be compared. I don't hear you saying they should stop. You are just here trying to get me to stop criticizing Prusa even for one tiny moment. You own a Prusa and you are here trying to silence my criticisms about that company. Can you honestly look me in the face and tell me you aren't my enemy. I will criticize Prusa whenever I feel like it just like I do to China, and people who think Patents are evil etc. I am a critic FFS. Beyond that I am more than justified in shining a light on Prusa, and you know it. Now stop trying to silence me. "IM jUst TRyinG tO HelP yoU MakE BETteR cONtenT." Nope! You just don't want me to criticize your darling 3D Printer company. My joke made the video better and more entertaining. Like I said, go back to the Prusa forums. I don't want you on my channel.
This machine is an absolutely TERRIBLE value. It is slow as hell and it is insanely expensive. It's not worth anywhere NEAR $800. You didn't even print anything tall on it!! You printed a 1/4" tall print and 2 little calibration cubes at a snail's pace 20-25 mm/s and then declared it the best value in 3D printing today?! WTF?! On what planet is this a good value? And even after the auto-levelling, you STILL had to manually adjust it!! This was really disappointing to watch...
www.gearbest.com/with-lock-folding-knives/pp_3004254942802376.html?wid=2000001 It's kind of cool. The quality could be better. Not sure it's worth $25.
Found better for less: www.aliexpress.com/item/32885907445.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.62f93109hVRani&algo_pvid=c7ca695e-6f97-4479-bf92-ec58e6b920fb&algo_exp_id=c7ca695e-6f97-4479-bf92-ec58e6b920fb-6&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265711900772%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B13.43%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch
Mingda are super shady. I was bought a d2 as a gift and the bed was severely warped out of the box and had no intention of sending me a new one. I had to fight with them for a reimbursement for a glass surface. I done 2 test prints then promptly sold it. Their hotends and extruders are ass backwards and unrepairable.
That's subjective. It's also twice the price. S1 is always available too. For the same money spent I could turn my Ender into a switchwire or build a Voron. I'd rather get an Ender and extender kit.
$800 for an innovated version of a Creality clone from a manufacturer that will not stand behind its products in the way Western companies would for that price (Prusa, bondtech, slice, etc)
I'm sorry to hear that. I will take this data point into consideration for the future. We reviewers often get cherry-picked units that are guaranteed to work.
I just recently got the magician x, and I love it... It just works. All of the same design aspects of this model that you're reviewing but just in a smaller size. I haven't had to deal with customer service yet, but pre-sales conversations through the chat online we're very timely and helpful.
I've been running a Magician X for MONTHS without any trouble. Zero failed prints. Auto leveled ONCE and never touched it again. The Ender 3 I had for a couple of years was a non-stop nuisance that almost put me off the hobby. The Magician X print quality is literally beyond belief for its price ($230). No tuning or tinkering was needed. Now I'm considering getting a Mingda Max for bigger prints.
The 5-pin header next to the CPU labelled "SWD" is the software debugging/programming port. The 2x4 connector, although unlabelled, is probably for an ESP-based Wifi module.
Mingdas customer service is very good - slow due to the time difference and the fact they ask you to through step by step trouble shooting = 1 day at a time (even if you know the issue). But they stand by the product and have replaced a couple items on my Magician X printer (which is an amazing first printer).
Good to hear. I really want to love this company, and so far I'm not seeing any warning signs.
I actually really liked the ribbon cable setup. I know some folk have it out for ribbons of any kind, but it's a creative way to solve a common problem, and I think it's way more elegant than the much more common cablechain.
I don't have one of these but I have two Geeetech Chinese printers have received first class customer support including a free replacement glass bed when I couldn't get it levelled, and a free BLTouch.
Too many people disparage Chinese manufacturers without any experience of them.
I now have 2 magician x and they out perform my upgraded ender 3 pro by far
woohoo, love your videos. Thanks for uploading i always learn something.
$800 though? For that price, I’m probably getting a Voron kit.
$800 for a voron kit? where can i get one xD
I have the Magician X and love it. Now I wish I had gotten the bigger pro version. Looks like same exact hardware except for bed size.
looks like a nice machine. Good job on the review! Hows your Sapphire Holding up with the enclosure? I still need to enclose mine.
The header looks like it would fit an nRF chip so I would guess at wifi too. Some very interesting things going on with that design!
Really nice review... Looks like i need to check out this printer .
Super excited to get into 3D printing. I talked to Mark W about what to buy and he said go to your channel. Love the content!
FWIW, I've had extremely good customer support from SainSmart so there are some Chinese 3D printer companies doing a good job on warranty coverage.
Thank you! Great video.
I bet rep rap firmware can handle that hall effect probe. They have support for pretty much any type of probe, and hall effects function very similar to strain gauges.
Personally I don't see a point in screwing with marlin anymore. My reprap devices are just so much easier to manipulate.
This printer had been great thus far for me. There is a lot of stringing though. I eliminate most of it by lowering temp but i am not there all the time to do it. What settings have you used to deal with the stringing besides the temp?
I am also having a bunch of trouble with stringing on this printer.
I would really like to see more about their nozzle load sensor. I would love to be able to add that technology to my current printers.
5:12 Looks like a wifi connection. The motherboard is a STM32407ZET6, 512KB flash, 168MHz. It's supported by Marlin, but you will need to figure out the pinout.
I agree the glass bed is not great, but it you liet it cool down the print will almost come off on its own.
Looking at this and the Anycubic Kobra Max. Can you advise as to which is a better choice and why? I am a 3D printing noob.
I haven't had the Anycubic in my hands. I can't say. Because you are a noob I think you should start with the lowest cost best performing printer. It's the least risk to you wasting your hard earned money. Unless you really need the volume of these large format printers just get an Ender3. Apparently Microcenter is selling for $99 right now. Also the standard version sells for ~$180 on the official Creality website.
Had nothing but issues with 3D printer warrantees.
My first printer was a Monoprice Select Mini Pro (Which happens to be a rebranded Malyan M200 v3). No parts support from Monoprice and they don't even sell it anymore. It just collects dust now because it is impossible to level.
Second printer is an Anycubic MegaX. Have had nothing but issues with it randomly stopping prints. While it was still in the warranty period I had the parts cooling fan die, they refused to respond to my emails, so I replaced it myself. A few weeks ago, I had the cable going to the hotend literally burn up, THIS time my email to support got a response, to which they told me that the printer is out of warranty, and they sent me a link to the replacement parts I needed to buy. The tone felt like they were telling me to 'go forth and procreate' - to put it nicely. Ordered the parts they linked on Feb 24th - today is March 13th and it hasn't even SHIPPED yet.
My 3rd printer in an FLSUN Q5. Works great. No issues.
If I could trade my POS MegaX for a Magician Pro, I would do so in a heartbeat. As it is, I don't even feel comfortable selling or giving it away. Same with the MPSMP, the cheapest Ender 3 clone would be better - at least there are parts out there to fix/upgrade those.
My guess for the "not a bed level sensor" header would be a wireless serial interface aka "WiFi" module. 🤷♀
I have the same problem with mingda D2, its a very good printer and customer support is responding but there in no information on which motherboard firmware should I use or marlin configuration as my wiw filament sensor is not working and the reviews I saw had a port for bltouch, mine does not, its a completely different motherboard, I cant even do babystepping.The customer support is responding but its not helping me solve a basic issue. And the port you were talking about is for an ESP-01 wifi modult, just check esp 3d and you "MIGHT" be able to get that working, its the same one as btt uses sometimes.
I print large flat things. You think removing such prints from the bed will be a problem? Thanks for the review.
If you let the bed cool down I think your prints will come off somewhat reasonably using a sharpened single bevel flexible putty knife. Depending on the filament type you are using there are bed adhesion products which will make this more or less easier. If you really find that you are struggling, you can purchase a large flex plate like I showed in the video and just install it over the top of the glass.
that plug on the control board is probably, actually for a wireless card
I bet the header is for an ESP01 for potential WIFI
@ 5:11 in the video, I'm shouting: WIFI i.e., a connector for an ESP8266 module. If the case is metal, then I assume an external antenna would be a must (ok, the box is plastic, but the module would still be sandwiched between a metal plate at the bottom and the bed above - not ideal) and even then the functionality of such a WIFI extension isn't great because of the slow link with the main board (and hence the SD-card storage).
@18:48 in the video, I cannot believe what I'm hearing... using a PTFE-lined hotend up to 265C? You want to get neurotoxin poisoning? Sure, the amount of toxin being released will be limited (it needs to get outside of the hotend first) and will not immediately make you ill and it will be very hard to trace or proof the cause of any effects that might show up afterwards, but why take the risk?
so, lets say you are loading filament into the printer while it is off, and you push down on the gantry, what do you think would happen without the belt at the top?
all my flsun printers came with the wood sheet over top the printers in the packaging.
Mingda always spanks the the rest. I've been waiting for this review. I'm waiting for Sam to get this thing on Amazon cus it's over 300 bucks in shipping alone....so I'm waiting lol
The white box around that header suggests to be that it’s a WiFi module port for one of those esp32 or whatever that thing is. Too lazy to look that module up 🤣
I don't usually comment on videos. But I have to in this case.
How is this a great printer, considering it's 800$?
The entire thing is full of plastic parts, and the most concerning location is at the bed v-slot wheels.
There are MUCH better alternatives out there for close to half the price. No way this is worth 800 USD.
And you also mention that this printer doesn't rely on cloned components. Did you take a closer look to the print head? Or the touchscreen interface? Or the ribbon cable setup?
Let's be honest here :)
I totally agree. Not worth $800.
Would you please suggest a few worthy models (with ≥ 400mm*400mm beds) to investigate instead? :)
Many proprietary parts, very cheap looking plastic in positions where it shouldn‘t be, releveling before every print because of the not tensionable z stepper belt connector (you can just delete the belt), dual motors and connected z axis which are fixed at the top have the tendency to wobble (china leadscews are not straight), no anti backslash nuts, a freaking 400x400 glass plate with over 1,5kg, a leveling system where the whole gantry is put under pressure (even if its minimal) and a cooling fan with 5mm air puffer behind it? And this for over 800$?! You can buy 5 (five!!) standard Ender 3 for this and these are still good designed and usable with a wide variety of parts. I know, they have a smaller build plate. But this Mingda machine IS NOT WELL DESIGNED in any case.
And not a single Prusa reference. Kudos.
Hmm....what am I talking about at 24:36 ?
@@DesignPrototypeTest compliment retracted.
I will never forgive the Prusa fanboys/sockpuppets/whatever-they-are for the 4 years of hate they have visited upon me. Even if these attacks were orgainic (I doubt it) and weren't directed by Prusa, Prusa could have stopped it at any time by releasing a simple statement such as: "Please don't attack DPT on our account. With a media presence roughly six times as large as his, and many allies who can come to our aid should the need arise, we are more than capable of defending our company against any untruth he is spreading. As a critic in this space he is entitled to his opinions. We will continue to make the best printers for all the Makers out there." The company masquerades as the savior of open source hardware all the while swallowing up every open source project with any value and renaming it "Prusa" eg Slic3r is now Prusa Slicer. "But it's open source. Anyone can use it." Oh, yeah? Go ahead and try. You will be murdered by the hoard of internet sentiment accusing you of copying Prusa. If you touch Prusa's technology your brand will suffer a fate similar to my channel. No other company can use any open source project once Prusa claims it as his/their own. But I'm supposed to capitulate to your desire that I leave the poor 3DPrinterCompany/Man alone or else you will remove compliments. After the depths of trolling I've endured what makes you think your conditional "compliment" has one iota of value? You are insulting. Go back to the Prusa forums. I don't want you on my channel.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Yeah, well, OK then. You missed the whole thing. My compliment was sincere. Your content is much more enjoyable when you stick to the topic, and aren't playing the marter. And you haven't just singled out Prusa, in your attacks. When you pointed out my generous oversight, what was I supposed to do? My retraction was tongue in cheek. You then took it to a whole new level. I was actually thinking you might have turned a corner, and was looking forward to more content that stuck to the point, but I guess the joke was really on me. So I will oblidge, and cease to give the rantings of a mad man any further consideration.
Fair enough... Wait, no it's not. After 4 years of abuse, I AM fixated on Prusa. These wounds will never fully heal, and this still feels like a battle to the death with me facing an army of ill behaved cheaters. They are pretty quiet at the moment because I'm winning. I'm winning because I'm right. You want me to just let it go. How about some restitution. Then maybe I'll think about it. Prusa's army of trolls taints everything related to 3D Printing on the internet. They are pervasive. They have set that company up as the company to which all other 3D printers must be compared. I don't hear you saying they should stop. You are just here trying to get me to stop criticizing Prusa even for one tiny moment. You own a Prusa and you are here trying to silence my criticisms about that company. Can you honestly look me in the face and tell me you aren't my enemy. I will criticize Prusa whenever I feel like it just like I do to China, and people who think Patents are evil etc. I am a critic FFS. Beyond that I am more than justified in shining a light on Prusa, and you know it. Now stop trying to silence me. "IM jUst TRyinG tO HelP yoU MakE BETteR cONtenT." Nope! You just don't want me to criticize your darling 3D Printer company. My joke made the video better and more entertaining. Like I said, go back to the Prusa forums. I don't want you on my channel.
This machine is an absolutely TERRIBLE value. It is slow as hell and it is insanely expensive. It's not worth anywhere NEAR $800. You didn't even print anything tall on it!! You printed a 1/4" tall print and 2 little calibration cubes at a snail's pace 20-25 mm/s and then declared it the best value in 3D printing today?! WTF?! On what planet is this a good value? And even after the auto-levelling, you STILL had to manually adjust it!! This was really disappointing to watch...
lol in britain, that solunds like, minger, its a slang word for nasty
What brand wrench is that at roughly 20.20?
www.gearbest.com/with-lock-folding-knives/pp_3004254942802376.html?wid=2000001 It's kind of cool. The quality could be better. Not sure it's worth $25.
Found better for less: www.aliexpress.com/item/32885907445.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.62f93109hVRani&algo_pvid=c7ca695e-6f97-4479-bf92-ec58e6b920fb&algo_exp_id=c7ca695e-6f97-4479-bf92-ec58e6b920fb-6&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265711900772%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B13.43%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch
and the next review of a bedslinger...wheres the fun in review the 20th bedslinger?
Mingda are super shady. I was bought a d2 as a gift and the bed was severely warped out of the box and had no intention of sending me a new one. I had to fight with them for a reimbursement for a glass surface. I done 2 test prints then promptly sold it. Their hotends and extruders are ass backwards and unrepairable.
way better design than Ender S1 with bigger vol.
That's subjective. It's also twice the price. S1 is always available too.
For the same money spent I could turn my Ender into a switchwire or build a Voron.
I'd rather get an Ender and extender kit.
@@dangerous8333 I thought that mingda was $300?? build a Voron, that's good
But don‘t forget the thingiverse-Link ;-)
It's there now. Thanks for the reminder. :)
$800 for an innovated version of a Creality clone from a manufacturer that will not stand behind its products in the way Western companies would for that price (Prusa, bondtech, slice, etc)
Would you please suggest a few worthy models with the capability of printing ≥ 400mm x 400mm? :)
@@FathomSoundProAudioThe Kobra Max and Neptune 3 Max?
Hi, This is Alissa from WEEDO 3D. Can we cooperate, I think our printer are very suited you.
Original lmao
Absolutely cannot recommend this brand of printer. My personal experience has been poor on quality and customer service £600 down the drain.
I'm sorry to hear that. I will take this data point into consideration for the future. We reviewers often get cherry-picked units that are guaranteed to work.