10:32, Just one of many reasons why I love your videos. You're not just spouting marketing gimmicks but sharing your actual experience. I for one have this issue but funny enough, it's with the new version of the printer. The revision doesn't fully address it but they did widen the plastic a little bit more.
I completely and utterly hate glass beds. I just bought several 3D printers for my work and bought flexible build plates at time of purchase. All the glass build plates go directly into the recycling bin. So, I think you should have the option when purchasing. There are some high end machines for special materials that I accept whatever they come with but they are the exception to the rule. Outwith those machines that cost several thousand to buy, I'd say all vendors should offer the option. If you can't get the print off or you have to use goo, glue or tape to get prints to stick then it's directly to the bin as far as I am concerned. With that all said, interesting printer. Price is pretty good. Nice feature set and looks simple to use. Cura slicer so definitely a plus. I'd be interested to see how easy spares are to get I a couple years. Good video, thanks.
I bought one of these an did a number of prints on it and then started getting bed adhesion issues. Turns out that the back left wheel for the bed plate "wore in" and was allowing slop into the system so the build plate was always high in that corner and nothing would stick. Took me longer than I would like to admit to figure it out. All in all this has been a good first printer for my needs... but I am already looking at at another one to tinker with.
So a little update to this in case anyone else has problem. It appears that Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) was not kicking in on the first layer, at least that is where I noticed it the most. I ended up have 2 things not quite right. 1. The back left wheel on the y carriage was looser then it should have been. So just a quick turn of the eccentric nut fixed that. 2. The right side lead screw "holder" with the 2 screws going through the top and into the bottom part were loose. It would twist ever so slightly when the z motor attempted to compensate for the bed being out of level. The twisting ended up making it so that the z axis was not compensated enough on the right hand side and the nozzle was getting too close to the bed and not printing worth a crap. It only took me so long to find this one as I had mostly been printing smaller things in the middle of the bed and had not done a full first layer type test... stupid me. I added a nylon washer to the top of each screw and fastened it back into place and everything is moving and working as expected now. Have completed 2 first layer prints (playing with z offset now) and things are looking much better. Anyway, hope this helps anyone having this sort of an issue.
Hi, love your videos! I just wanted to share my experience with that printer. The first one I received from Amazon had a damaged extruder from the poor packing that it comes in, it had been dropped at some point. The next one they sent me is working great, BUT, I had the same problem with that ribbon cable! They sent me a new cable but I’m really disappointed in the way they cable managed that cable! Scary! Mine almost worn down to the metal wires! Also I had the same problem with the optical sensor. And the other problem I have now is that the fan in the cheap power supply is going out and sounds like it trying to eat a cat for the first 5 minutes. I also noticed that you didn’t say anything about the duel motors on the Z-axis and you left out the built in filament run out sensor. FYI. Your content is awesome and I love leaning, together!
Soo glad I found your Chanel 🙏 I have just ordered one of these printers. Quick question : In the slicer software , is the heat bed and nozzle temp defined? Reason I ask is will it override the temperature you have preset on the unit? Todah Raba Eli
Hi Irv, do you do any pay phone calls? I'm having a problem setting up a filament sensor. I'm very new at this stuff and just cant get it to work. Its on an Ender 3 pro with a skr and TFT 35 screen. The sensor is connected to the screen. Let me know if it is something you do and maybe can help. Thank you
I recommend people read the comments about the printer in Amazon. In the Canadian Amazon it got a 3.5 stars in the American 3.7. Not what I would consider buying. I find it hard to believe, with all the complaints about the problems and low ratings, you would recommend people buying it.
@mike blaze. My reviews are based on my experience with a single printer. I think your suggestion to check reviews at retail sites is excellent and should be used in conjunction with my experience.
Nice Video 👌 since Mingda´s have alot problems with z axis. I used your g-code for a while THANKS. Now i have trouble after Auto Bed Level z axis is 5-6mm above print surface & cannot be corrected with Z Offset!!!! Tried other Firmwares for that Magican Max.....same problem. At moment i have no Idea what to do. All rails & Screws are ok. Do you have an idea?
I have this printer. Everything is fine except one side of a print is always very uneven, it has small holes overall looks horrible. Any idea how to fix that? Fan is working fine
Hello, I bought the Magician X after watching your review. After performing the ABL I pursued to setup the babystep to -0.3mm. For some reason, the babystep don't seem to save, it would reset itself on every new print. Is there a way to overcome this and save the baby step permanently? Thanks in advance.
I love this printer by far one of the best ones when it comes to auto leveling, as mentioned you still have to adjust the nozzle but you only have to do it once and never again…
Wow - Seems like a nice printer. Creality has indeed released the new Ender 3 S1 witch also has auto bed leveling and a direct drive, silent stepper drivers and things like belt tension knobs on both axes, full size SD drive, USB-C connector, new display and some more improvements. It's more expensive though. Still - It's going to be a hard choice between this printer and the new Creality one... I think Mingda is a good entry point printer for those that does not want to tinker much. Creality has the name that their printers are highly modifiable (although this gets definitely less so with the Ender 6 and 7 printers for having closed source firmware). I have no idea if the Ender 3 S1will live up on that legacy, because I have not seen a tear down to construction and software level (yet).
@@MakeWithTech Completely agree. It was not my intention to tone down the excellent properties of the Mingda Magician x by any means. Its a great starting point for anyone that wants to start 3D printing. There is no doubt about that.
@@MakeWithTech first of all LOVE YIUR CHANNEL. Been a big help as I ramp up my 3d printing capabilities. Question if you’ve had success connecting directly to a Mac computer. I wanted to plug in and send G-code to begin dialing in the printer. I’ve tried both usb-c and usb-a connections and neither seems to pick up the printer (don’t even see it in finder). Others have mentioned needing a driver in order to get the Mac to recognize but I’m having trouble finding an official driver download. Most I find are either very old or seem to be a risky download from an unknown source. Curious if you have any guidance or expertise around this. Thanks again for All the great content!
Irv, I just recently picked up a Magician X and so far I feel like it really is a cheaply well-made unit. It works pretty well, but I'm struggling with the retraction settings. No matter what I try, I can't seem to get rid of the stringing. I noticed the prints in your video look really nice, no stringing really. I am curious what retraction settings were you using with this printer?? I print with PLA that prints really well on the MMX at 180c, and 195c on my Ender 3 Pros. I can print with basically no stringing on my Enders with this same filament, so I feel like I'm the problem in this equation. Any help you can give me would be GREATLY appreciated. To be honest, a lot of what I know about 3D printing, I learned from watching your videos. Thank you for all that you do for the community, we owe a lot to your sharing of knowledge.
Hi. Maybe you are forgetting something very important and this is that this printer has direct drive extrusion unlike the Ender 3. Otherwise you will have a lot of stringing. Also is very important to have the right temperature for the filament you are using. When you are using a direct drive extrusion the retractions should be much shorter than with the Bowden system. Geetings from Santiago de Chile, South America. John.
Got one and tried it; the hot end fell off during the first print. not sure if it broke, or just came undone, but there is no way for me to put it back on. sending it back to amazon. time to look for yet another 3d printer that will more than likely be garbage or broken right out of the box.
Did you need to adjust your Z offset ? I'm printing from OctoPrint, and that's what it's called. And once I do that, will that be the same value forever ?
Most 3d printers with ABL, including the Minga, allow you to adjust the z-offset from the front panel of the printer. Yes you need to tune this to get optimal prints.
Looks like just the thing. Unfortunately, I bought an earlier, cheaper Mingda. Fortunately, I haven't really opened the box yet. WIth luck, somebody will buy it as new opened box. This seems to have many more capabilities for the noob.
The fact that removing a print is not straightforward nor instant as on a flexible sheet makes me think, what were they thinking. Were they thinking? Apparently not. Thanks for the warning/showstopper.
After seeing the freeform print I have a question. Helped a neighbor with a Hanukkah display. We built 9 led candles that each night one comes on progressivly in a blue color. (Using WLED). Only problem is that we could not find anything we could print to be a flame on top. Need something hollw so that it could be stuffed with an led flame pattern. Any links you could possibly provide for a "flame"
@@MakeWithTech Yes I did. But after thinking about it maybe I could modify the rocket to look like a flame and print it in a very thin translucent filament. Thank you for the help.
I’d look at battery powered tea lights. They simulate burning flames very well and have a molded translucent flame shape. I’d open it up, replace the LED with a pre wired blue one, and run the wires to the menorah base.
Several reviewers have focused on how this printer is "perfect for new users." Maybe that's true, but a good printer is a good printer, and so it seems too coincidental that numerous reviewers would "notice" this particular use. This makes me doubt the veracity of these reviews.
Not sure how support for Mingda, but Creality's support is so bad. I purchased the S1 from Amazon only to return it a week later. A buddy of mine purchased an Ender 3 v2 from Creality's website. They refuse their own return policy (just keep asking him for videos so they can improve future products).
It's a decent, quiet printer right out of the box the firmware and support leaves a lot to be desired, I ended up sending it back And it definitely could be built better with the plastic also took me a while to find the 110/220 switch like stated earlier inside toolbox back right had trouble getting good prints even after adjusting settings in different slicers I'll stick with my Anycubic vyper it smokes the magi in my opinion best printer I have owned so far.
I exchange a number of emails with Mingda and they were very responsive, but as a reviewer, I do not know if my experiences were typical. There is a parts section for the Magician on the Mingda website. 3dmingdaofficial.com/
This is a Creality CR-6 SE clone with and improved extruder design (unfortunately they went for an bit outdated BMG clone instead of an Orbiter or LGX large gear style extruder or even a Hemera style extruder). I was less than impressed with the print quality, my CR-6 is definitely better than that (especially the layer lines on the cat are really poor - could be due to poor filament). I do like the 4020 extrusion X-axis that is a significant improvement over the CR-6. The strain gauge design of the CR-6 could be improved too. How does it look on this one? There is no mention of the hotend type. Since the max temperature is 260 °C I fear its still a PTFE tube pushed against the nozzle with all the issues that brings. With Creality moving to all metal designs on their newer printers other brands seem again to fish behind the net.
Perhaps your nozzle is too close to the bed. In fact, most recently I have using using Dinamax and just a small fan and find my prints release in about 5 minutes, just with the fan.
This is BS...plug in,turn on...BINGO..I get this ..ERROR: RESET MINT EMP:E1....what is it and how do I reset it....no instructions, no help screen ..nothing
@@MakeWithTech After several prints and a few hours of use (approx 500 to 600h), carriage and bed wheels, get loose. The same happens to the housing of the glass bed. As a result, new users get disappointed and quit 3D printing activities, especially kids that can not make correct adjustments to the machine. From the price perspective, there is lots of room to improve the product by adding linear rails to the bed and the X-axis plus they have to improve the stability of the Z-axis.
@@iamasgroup Do you have an example of what you describe at this price point? 3D printers are a machine and machines need maintenance periodically. The parts you mentioned are all normal wear items, even on much more expensive printers. As far as being Chinese made, what isn't at this price point? Not everyone can afford a commercial grade printer.
10:32, Just one of many reasons why I love your videos. You're not just spouting marketing gimmicks but sharing your actual experience. I for one have this issue but funny enough, it's with the new version of the printer. The revision doesn't fully address it but they did widen the plastic a little bit more.
I completely and utterly hate glass beds. I just bought several 3D printers for my work and bought flexible build plates at time of purchase. All the glass build plates go directly into the recycling bin. So, I think you should have the option when purchasing.
There are some high end machines for special materials that I accept whatever they come with but they are the exception to the rule. Outwith those machines that cost several thousand to buy, I'd say all vendors should offer the option.
If you can't get the print off or you have to use goo, glue or tape to get prints to stick then it's directly to the bin as far as I am concerned.
With that all said, interesting printer. Price is pretty good. Nice feature set and looks simple to use. Cura slicer so definitely a plus. I'd be interested to see how easy spares are to get I a couple years.
Good video, thanks.
I bought one of these an did a number of prints on it and then started getting bed adhesion issues. Turns out that the back left wheel for the bed plate "wore in" and was allowing slop into the system so the build plate was always high in that corner and nothing would stick. Took me longer than I would like to admit to figure it out. All in all this has been a good first printer for my needs... but I am already looking at at another one to tinker with.
So a little update to this in case anyone else has problem. It appears that Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) was not kicking in on the first layer, at least that is where I noticed it the most. I ended up have 2 things not quite right.
1. The back left wheel on the y carriage was looser then it should have been. So just a quick turn of the eccentric nut fixed that.
2. The right side lead screw "holder" with the 2 screws going through the top and into the bottom part were loose. It would twist ever so slightly when the z motor attempted to compensate for the bed being out of level. The twisting ended up making it so that the z axis was not compensated enough on the right hand side and the nozzle was getting too close to the bed and not printing worth a crap. It only took me so long to find this one as I had mostly been printing smaller things in the middle of the bed and had not done a full first layer type test... stupid me. I added a nylon washer to the top of each screw and fastened it back into place and everything is moving and working as expected now.
Have completed 2 first layer prints (playing with z offset now) and things are looking much better.
Anyway, hope this helps anyone having this sort of an issue.
Great review. Thank youuu
Mine comes this week, and yes this was super useful.
I have a highly modified Ender 3 v2 and just bought this printer for my second printer. Comes tomorrow. I'm pretty excited to test out myself
How is it?
@@SibzelChebst it's fantastic. Perfect first layers every time
The ABL on this printer is identical to the ABL on the Creality CR6 SE, and it worked properly straight out of the box.
Hi, love your videos! I just wanted to share my experience with that printer.
The first one I received from Amazon had a damaged extruder from the poor packing that it comes in, it had been dropped at some point.
The next one they sent me is working great, BUT, I had the same problem with that ribbon cable! They sent me a new cable but I’m really disappointed in the way they cable managed that cable! Scary! Mine almost worn down to the metal wires!
Also I had the same problem with the optical sensor. And the other problem I have now is that the fan in the cheap power supply is going out and sounds like it trying to eat a cat for the first 5 minutes.
I also noticed that you didn’t say anything about the duel motors on the Z-axis and you left out the built in filament run out sensor. FYI.
Your content is awesome and I love leaning, together!
Sugar water is so simple for adhesion and release. When it’s warm, it’s sticky, when it cools, not do much.
Very interesting idea. Thanks for sharing.
Soo glad I found your Chanel 🙏
I have just ordered one of these printers.
Quick question :
In the slicer software , is the heat bed and nozzle temp defined?
Reason I ask is will it override the temperature you have preset on the unit?
Todah Raba
Eli
Yes. You specify both temperatures in the slicer.
Hi Irv, do you do any pay phone calls? I'm having a problem setting up a filament sensor. I'm very new at this stuff and just cant get it to work. Its on an Ender 3 pro with a skr and TFT 35 screen. The sensor is connected to the screen. Let me know if it is something you do and maybe can help. Thank you
I recommend people read the comments about the printer in Amazon. In the Canadian Amazon it got a 3.5 stars in the American 3.7. Not what I would consider buying. I find it hard to believe, with all the complaints about the problems and low ratings, you would recommend people buying it.
@mike blaze. My reviews are based on my experience with a single printer. I think your suggestion to check reviews at retail sites is excellent and should be used in conjunction with my experience.
How sturdy is the plastic base? I guess this is how they saved money. Thanks.
Mingda Magician x vs Anycubic Vyper, what is the best?
Chep has done a nice video on ABL and pre-heating. For bed temperatures up to 60C it seems a waste of energy.
Nice Video 👌 since Mingda´s have alot problems with z axis. I used your g-code for a while THANKS. Now i have trouble after Auto Bed Level z axis is 5-6mm above print surface & cannot be corrected with Z Offset!!!! Tried other Firmwares for that Magican Max.....same problem. At moment i have no Idea what to do. All rails & Screws are ok. Do you have an idea?
I have this printer. Everything is fine except one side of a print is always very uneven, it has small holes overall looks horrible. Any idea how to fix that? Fan is working fine
Thank you, great reveiw!
Hello, I bought the Magician X after watching your review. After performing the ABL I pursued to setup the babystep to -0.3mm. For some reason, the babystep don't seem to save, it would reset itself on every new print. Is there a way to overcome this and save the baby step permanently? Thanks in advance.
I love this printer by far one of the best ones when it comes to auto leveling, as mentioned you still have to adjust the nozzle but you only have to do it once and never again…
Do you still like this printer for someone getting started?
Wow - Seems like a nice printer. Creality has indeed released the new Ender 3 S1 witch also has auto bed leveling and a direct drive, silent stepper drivers and things like belt tension knobs on both axes, full size SD drive, USB-C connector, new display and some more improvements. It's more expensive though. Still - It's going to be a hard choice between this printer and the new Creality one...
I think Mingda is a good entry point printer for those that does not want to tinker much. Creality has the name that their printers are highly modifiable (although this gets definitely less so with the Ender 6 and 7 printers for having closed source firmware). I have no idea if the Ender 3 S1will live up on that legacy, because I have not seen a tear down to construction and software level (yet).
I'm a Creality fan but the S1 is $100 more. This printer is an excellent value.
@@MakeWithTech Completely agree. It was not my intention to tone down the excellent properties of the Mingda Magician x by any means. Its a great starting point for anyone that wants to start 3D printing. There is no doubt about that.
@@MakeWithTech Irv, why you didn´t mention that *the whole shell is plastic* in this printer !
I think this is a big handicap. Greetings, John.
@@MakeWithTech first of all LOVE YIUR CHANNEL. Been a big help as I ramp up my 3d printing capabilities. Question if you’ve had success connecting directly to a Mac computer. I wanted to plug in and send G-code to begin dialing in the printer. I’ve tried both usb-c and usb-a connections and neither seems to pick up the printer (don’t even see it in finder). Others have mentioned needing a driver in order to get the Mac to recognize but I’m having trouble finding an official driver download. Most I find are either very old or seem to be a risky download from an unknown source. Curious if you have any guidance or expertise around this. Thanks again for All the great content!
Irv, I just recently picked up a Magician X and so far I feel like it really is a cheaply well-made unit. It works pretty well, but I'm struggling with the retraction settings. No matter what I try, I can't seem to get rid of the stringing. I noticed the prints in your video look really nice, no stringing really. I am curious what retraction settings were you using with this printer?? I print with PLA that prints really well on the MMX at 180c, and 195c on my Ender 3 Pros. I can print with basically no stringing on my Enders with this same filament, so I feel like I'm the problem in this equation. Any help you can give me would be GREATLY appreciated. To be honest, a lot of what I know about 3D printing, I learned from watching your videos. Thank you for all that you do for the community, we owe a lot to your sharing of knowledge.
Hi. Maybe you are forgetting something very important and this is that this printer has direct drive extrusion unlike the Ender 3. Otherwise you will have a lot of stringing. Also is very important to have the right temperature for the filament you are using.
When you are using a direct drive extrusion the retractions should be much shorter than with the Bowden system.
Geetings from Santiago de Chile, South America. John.
Great review video as always 👍
Fair points
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Got one and tried it; the hot end fell off during the first print.
not sure if it broke, or just came undone, but there is no way for me to put it back on.
sending it back to amazon.
time to look for yet another 3d printer that will more than likely be garbage or broken right out of the box.
The problem with optical position sensors in that there’s always a grey point where it’s neither on or off. I bet that has to do with the issue.
What do o do if I do not have a sd card reader
i am curious about that test print yous says is from kickstarter because that is actually from fusion 360
Did you get a good printer profile for cura? The profile I received from Minga has made my prints look like lace and not walls
Sometimes the freezer route causes glass to be ripped up with the print.... I prefer to put the print in the fridge (not freezer)
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I gave not had this experience. When I am not in a rush I just use a fan.
@@MakeWithTech most of the time, I just let it cool normally and the print releases.... I use 3DLAC for adhesion on glass
What is the point of having to deal with the z-offset, if the nozzle is the used in bed leveling?
quick question,if you belive its good printer so why Amazon buyer rate is too low?
Looks like a nice printer. Is the firmware opensource?
Clearly marlin. I have not verified the released the source. Their UI is unique, the best I have seen.
A $400 "Beginner" printer. Yeah.... No.
Did you need to adjust your Z offset ? I'm printing from OctoPrint, and that's what it's called. And once I do that, will that be the same value forever ?
Most 3d printers with ABL, including the Minga, allow you to adjust the z-offset from the front panel of the printer. Yes you need to tune this to get optimal prints.
Outstanding video, the only problem though is there is no upgrade paths. But for plug and play it seems good.
8:48 those eccentric bolts aren’t in line; was this by design?
Looks like just the thing. Unfortunately, I bought an earlier, cheaper Mingda. Fortunately, I haven't really opened the box yet. WIth luck, somebody will buy it as new opened box. This seems to have many more capabilities for the noob.
Still uses ANDCIV firmware?
Check out the Ender 3 S1, its a pretty good choice...
Will this printer do nylon carbon filiment @ 250c?
Probably no.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you for the reply. I thought by the temp stats listed it might be capable.
Currently unavailable om Amazon
The fact that removing a print is not straightforward nor instant as on a flexible sheet makes me think, what were they thinking. Were they thinking? Apparently not. Thanks for the warning/showstopper.
After seeing the freeform print I have a question. Helped a neighbor with a Hanukkah display. We built 9 led candles that each night one comes on progressivly in a blue color. (Using WLED). Only problem is that we could not find anything we could print to be a flame on top. Need something hollw so that it could be stuffed with an led flame pattern. Any links you could possibly provide for a "flame"
Don’t know of one. Did you try Thingiverse.
@@MakeWithTech Yes I did. But after thinking about it maybe I could modify the rocket to look like a flame and print it in a very thin translucent filament. Thank you for the help.
I’d look at battery powered tea lights. They simulate burning flames very well and have a molded translucent flame shape. I’d open it up, replace the LED with a pre wired blue one, and run the wires to the menorah base.
Several reviewers have focused on how this printer is "perfect for new users." Maybe that's true, but a good printer is a good printer, and so it seems too coincidental that numerous reviewers would "notice" this particular use. This makes me doubt the veracity of these reviews.
This one or the Ender3 S1?
I have not reviewed the S1 but this is 100 dollars less and I think their firmware front panel implementation is excellent.
Not sure how support for Mingda, but Creality's support is so bad. I purchased the S1 from Amazon only to return it a week later. A buddy of mine purchased an Ender 3 v2 from Creality's website. They refuse their own return policy (just keep asking him for videos so they can improve future products).
It's a decent, quiet printer right out of the box the firmware and support leaves a lot to be desired, I ended up sending it back
And it definitely could be built better with the plastic also took me a while to find the 110/220 switch like stated earlier inside toolbox back right had trouble getting good prints even after adjusting settings in different slicers I'll stick with my Anycubic vyper it smokes the magi in my opinion best printer I have owned so far.
Parts and support ??
I exchange a number of emails with Mingda and they were very responsive, but as a reviewer, I do not know if my experiences were typical.
There is a parts section for the Magician on the Mingda website.
3dmingdaofficial.com/
@tradde11 I get support from facebook and all parts are readily available on amazon
This is a Creality CR-6 SE clone with and improved extruder design (unfortunately they went for an bit outdated BMG clone instead of an Orbiter or LGX large gear style extruder or even a Hemera style extruder). I was less than impressed with the print quality, my CR-6 is definitely better than that (especially the layer lines on the cat are really poor - could be due to poor filament).
I do like the 4020 extrusion X-axis that is a significant improvement over the CR-6.
The strain gauge design of the CR-6 could be improved too. How does it look on this one?
There is no mention of the hotend type. Since the max temperature is 260 °C I fear its still a PTFE tube pushed against the nozzle with all the issues that brings. With Creality moving to all metal designs on their newer printers other brands seem again to fish behind the net.
A lot of Bad Reviews on AMAZON
That is all good and nice, but shipping to Australia is US$264. So, that makes this a nearly AU$900 printer. Thanks but no thanks.
have put many prints in the freezer to have them pop off. Sorry but 5 minutes will not do it. 30 minutes is more realistic.
Perhaps your nozzle is too close to the bed. In fact, most recently I have using using Dinamax and just a small fan and find my prints release in about 5 minutes, just with the fan.
This is BS...plug in,turn on...BINGO..I get this ..ERROR: RESET MINT EMP:E1....what is it and how do I reset it....no instructions, no help screen ..nothing
Hello,dear Terry, may I kindly know did you contact our suport team via support@3dmingda.com?
Please invest in a better mic & Sound rec System…
Another overpriced Chinese crap for our collection!
Interesting comment. I thought this printer was a good value for the price.
@@MakeWithTech After several prints and a few hours of use (approx 500 to 600h), carriage and bed wheels, get loose.
The same happens to the housing of the glass bed.
As a result, new users get disappointed and quit 3D printing activities, especially kids that can not make correct adjustments to the machine.
From the price perspective, there is lots of room to improve the product by adding linear rails to the bed and the X-axis plus they have to improve the stability of the Z-axis.
@@iamasgroup Do you have an example of what you describe at this price point? 3D printers are a machine and machines need maintenance periodically. The parts you mentioned are all normal wear items, even on much more expensive printers. As far as being Chinese made, what isn't at this price point? Not everyone can afford a commercial grade printer.