MFJJ, I really appreciate the time you put in for this video. I learned a lot. It would be greatly appreciated if you could do the same thing for your hunting set up this season. Also I have a quick question for you. How much of a difference have you seen it make between left versus right helical?
I went with Easton Sonic 6.0 with 3 Bohning Heat vanes to maximize speed and minimize the effects of wind. The Victory RIP XV were even lighter, but more expensive. In the end, I went with the less expensive option because it hurts less to miss at TAC. Will a TAC specific setup make a huge difference, IDK, but that flatter trajectory is a requirement for the longer shots. I like using hot melt because you can't really make a mistake and you can always redo it. With super glues, you better be quick because it will bond quickly and it's nearly impossible to get it back out again without damaging the arrow or the insert. I weighed everything to attempt to get matching arrows. Even the vanes would vary and I was grouping them by weight. Am I good enough to tell downrange, not even close, but it can only help.
Thanks to content you put out, I made target arrows; RIP XV 390 gr TAW. 1.2 grains difference from heaviest to lightest. Weighed/ sorted each component. Shooting a G tape on my CBE sight at 75#. Was shooting an L tape for VAP TKO hunting arrows. "Laser beams" hitting 4" groups at 60 yd! This channel educated me quickly ramping up my learning curve
Your great! Can we get an arrow length video?! I'm shooting a v3x 33 with C mods (30.5dl) and want to know what length my arrows should be cut carbon to carbon, appreciate the help!!!
Another awesome video!! I am curious if you have ever thought of selling “packages”? For instance putting everything you used in this video in a “MFJJ tac arrow package” or a Dan from Elk Shape tac arrow or Elk hunting arrow package? I would like to try this arrow setup and would have definitely purchase it in a package link from the video. I am purchasing them regardless, it would just make it a little easier. I’m putting a list together for other items I need to order and will be doing that soon. Anyway just a thought. Thanks again for the great videos and content.
Hey Josh. Love the video. My friends and I watch all your stuff. Question. Do you try to cut your arrows as short as possible. I have a 30 inch draw length, 70 lb, VXR, Hamskee Epsilon. How short would you cut the arrow if clearance wasn’t an issue? Thanks again!
I did a similar process with my hunting arrows this year, but with a couple of tweaks. My arrow setup included a separate insert and collar system, so I weighed the arrows, then the inserts, then the collars, then the points. I put the components into a fishing lure box that had 12 separate boxes to keep track of the "numbering" for each, then plugged them all into a spreadsheet on a computer so I could balance everything out as much as possible. It took a little time, but at the end I could grab arrow 4, insert 10, collar 3 and tip 9 (for example) and had everything end up within about .3 grains of each other. With using cheap field points, I was pretty happy with that, and I'm sure the arrows shoot better than I do.
I thought Victory marked the strongest part of the spine, not the weakest? I don’t quite understand why they would do it that way since the weakest part of the spine wouldn’t necessarily be 180° from the hardest part. It could be 90° or 32° from the hardest part. Can anyone explain this?
Thanks for the video. Those arrows came from the factory spine tested, but wouldn't the spine change once the arrow is cut to length? This would require you to find the spine again, correct?
One of the most knowledgeable videos in the fact that you show you doing it vs just talking the whole time. Really learned a ton from watching you do every step. I’m going to buy that arrow jig and stuff off your sight.
Love you videos. You definitely put in the time and can tell you really love archery and are passionate about your job. I have one quick question. What glue do you use to glue in you SS insets on your carbon arrows.
So you have found the static spine to be accurate for shooting? Static and dynamic can be different in a bow. I haven't tried victory arrows since there HV standard shafts. I wasn't impressed with durability. Thanks for showing your build.
Mr MFJJ, you said you’re shooting a 350 spine? At 30 inches DL and 70-75 pounds I thought that sounded a little weak, but then again I’m not near as experienced. Love the content though!
Might have been a long video, but that's how long it takes to do the job right. I do the same thing and end up with arrows very close in weight. One thing I like to do as well is check all my shafts for spine consistency. I normally will get 3-4 dozen shafts, then run them through the RAM carbon spine tester and make sure I get 1-2 dozen that are exactly the same as each other. Then I move to what you did above. The only difference for me is I might sort by point weight and match them up, then glue the point in, then shoot the bareshaft through paper to verify weak plane, then mark that in case it is different than the spine alignment mark on the Victory shafts. Then I weigh my fletchings and batch them out per shaft and glue them up from there. So is it tedious? Absolutely, but putting together the absolute best shafts you can that you have 100% confidence in is key. When your arrow is off it's mark, if you have shafts like these then you know it was you. That feeling is priceless and worth the time it takes to make up super awesome arrows.
What arrows would you suggest for someone who's just really getting into archery and not trying to break the bank but not scared to spend money on quality? Looking to hunt this year or next whitetail in Texas. Still new but pretty accurate out to 50-60 yards 5 inch groups at 60 with trash arrows basically. Not losing arrows anymore and wanting to build my own. My brother and I have loved our journey over the last couple of months and you and the other guys have been a huge help and inspiration. 27inch draw 62lb currently shooting a pse drive nxt
Thank you for putting this out with TAC being just around the corner. I might have to pick me up a dozen, i just picked up RIP TKOs, so maybe not. lol P.S. Happy Early Birthday!
What a FANTASTIC video! I could have watched you for another hour! Man I learned so much about this process. Every minute counted in this one. Thank you MFJJ. Purchased a true fletching jig! 🤜🤛
Great video appreciate you for sharing your knowledge and expertise on building a perfect arrow it just makes sense appreciate all your content you share ❤
I've found that cleaning the carbon dust from inside the shafts with 91%+ alcohol and q-tips really improves the adhesion. I also wipe down the shafts and the base of every vane- no matter what vane company.
@@rileymod6541 SO THE STUFF IN THE PAINTING SECTION ? , is better than the alcohol we use for cuts and stuff . wow , i never gave it more thoughts . same thing with acetone , i have seen people use the dollar tree version that has vitamin E added lol .
I don’t get why people change their setup for TAC. Use what your going to hunt with. If you can’t hit a fake animal that’s not moving then. Don’t even think about trying to kill a real animal.
Always interested to see what people build, but may I suggest that’s far too much vane and too much helical for a long range arrow. 2” long and 0.35” approx vane with slight offset and the groups will be much better at long range. Better still, drop the 5mm XVs and shoot a 4mm with higher GPI for a better balanced (for target) arrows.
I’m guessing you hoard all the yellow nocks? Bought a dozen from Lancaster they came with yellow nocks, bought a dozen from you all at podium and they came orange 😂😂😂
Josh. I realize these are target arrows but thought I would get a suggestion from you. I like Victory .166 arrows but cannot seem to build a light enough arrow. They come with 50 gr.. Inserts, I shoot 100 grain broadness and a 350 spine weight. My arrows are 27.5 inches with three TAC vanes. Most arrows are coming in just shy of 450 grains. I would love to find a combination that is 425 or less… any suggestions???
Wow awesome Josh! I’m learning so much off your videos. Thanks a million. These guys are the best, I’ve dealt with there pro shop they’ve taken care of me with everything I’ve purchased buy from them guys! They have helped me a ton on everything and is newbie and I’m learning a ton from them there the best guys really truly are. 🙏🏽
Hey can you give me a suggestion for a arrow and broadleaf combo for southern whitetail deer my bow is a 29 draw and 60 lb of draw weight shooting 40 yards and under be specific,i have been a fan of gold tip arrows but open to anything thanks
.1s of gr are far less of a consideration than wind, and how you shoot shot from shot. That's not to mention the fact your using a scale that is accurate to +- .1 gr. That .1 is truly only a reflection of its accuracy in a specific temp and humidity range, and covered from any air flow in the room. That's not mentioning it being perfectly level is a concern. All that is to say that with some straight forward math you're chasing less than a .1% off total weight. That will not be measurable in any meaningful way. Getting better at reading wind conditions and overall shooting ability is far more of a concern than chasing that weight. It is quite literally an utter waste of time. Honestly the thing you spend the least amount of time and concern on (fletching the arrow) is 10+ times the importance of chasing those couple .1s your not truly capable of measuring in any meaningful way. If that process makes you feel better go for it, but to say it makes a measurable difference is just not true. Do you measure and adjust nock tension? That would be further still more important. When you set the arrows on the scale are they set on in the same way across all arrows on the same spot in the scale? No, that effects weight readings.
so I have what may seem like a silly question, but if you're using a nock insert, and you break off a nock having it get hit by another arrow, is there still enough left to pull the nock out and re-nock the arrow? Would a nock pin insert accomplish the same thing and be easier to re-nock the arrow? Or is there not any difference?
VIDEO IDEA - how true or accurate is the "spine align" on the vaps? have a shop near me that says with their expensive spine checking tool (just a hunter here mind the inaccurate verbiage) that the spine align logo is or CAN be inaccurate......just a thought from a fan in south Florida. happy hunting
Hey Josh, just watched a vid with Dan, ranch fairy and iron will bill. They were taking about arrow weight and velocity down range at 60yds. The consensus was heavier arrow is better for kinetic energy and impact was does make sense. Bit do believe in lighter is good as well in certain applications. Would love to see a UA-cam vid by mfjj on his recommendation on arrow weight for elk hunting.
Thank you for leaving in all the bits where you may not be talking but you're working. I have taught myself quite a bit through UA-cam, including rebuilding the 289 in my 65 mustang and replacing transmission. Research becomes a deep dive because content is cut out or "assumed we know that." You can tell me I need to glue the veins on, but how many strokes you use of the glue, at what angle and pressure you apply to the vein as you sintall it is important information i can get by watching.
Does it help to bare shaft tune target arrows before fletching? I have no experience building any arrows so I hope you don't mind if I asked a dumb question. Thank You!
Spine align or knock tune. If you knock tune there is no point in spine aligning other then a staring point. Inside out Precision does a video about this I think.
I'm looking for arrow advice , I currently have RIP TKO 300, 50gr insert, 100 gr tip, I'm new to deer hunting but people are telling me I need to be heavier ? I shoot a phase 4 33, with a 31" draw at 70# .
Just giving you my experience on the subject. I'm 47 and have been shooting a bow since I was about six years old and bow hunted since I was about 14. I went down the rabbit hole with .166 and "adult arrows" weighing from 600 to 754 grains. I'm 30.5 draw at 70 lb. Practicing at known distances on stationary targets had me very confident. Ended up mis-judging my target Buck by a couple yards and gave him a shave. Absolutely no need for the extra arrow Mass especially at our DL and poundage on whitetail. My opinion is try to be between 425 and 525 grains and no more than 150 total up front. Also found out that micro diameter was not stabilizing nearly as well as 204 or 244 arrows even at extra-heavy spine. I'm back to 244 and 472 grain arrow.
MFJJ how do you keep the insert from being pushed out, even a little, if you have already glued in the bushing? Wont the pressure inside the shaft push back against the insert? I always remove my nocks when putting in inserts for this reason. As meticulous as your arrow build is I cant see you making that mistake.
How are you able to shoot up to a 100 and past while keeping the same anchor point and not having to either anchor lower or lift your head up and not have your nose touching the string? I can get to 90 but once it’s pasted that the bottom half of my sight is out of my peep. My bow is shooting a 285 FPS sigh tape from black gold. I also use a nose button and a hamskea peep 5/32.
sitting here watching you fletch arrows while i break in a new shooting glove...i asked hows your day going expecting a response kinda rude of you to not respond
MFJJ, I really appreciate the time you put in for this video. I learned a lot. It would be greatly appreciated if you could do the same thing for your hunting set up this season. Also I have a quick question for you. How much of a difference have you seen it make between left versus right helical?
I went with Easton Sonic 6.0 with 3 Bohning Heat vanes to maximize speed and minimize the effects of wind. The Victory RIP XV were even lighter, but more expensive. In the end, I went with the less expensive option because it hurts less to miss at TAC. Will a TAC specific setup make a huge difference, IDK, but that flatter trajectory is a requirement for the longer shots.
I like using hot melt because you can't really make a mistake and you can always redo it. With super glues, you better be quick because it will bond quickly and it's nearly impossible to get it back out again without damaging the arrow or the insert.
I weighed everything to attempt to get matching arrows. Even the vanes would vary and I was grouping them by weight. Am I good enough to tell downrange, not even close, but it can only help.
How you liking the Sonic 6?
Thanks to content you put out, I made target arrows; RIP XV 390 gr TAW. 1.2 grains difference from heaviest to lightest. Weighed/ sorted each component. Shooting a G tape on my CBE sight at 75#. Was shooting an L tape for VAP TKO hunting arrows. "Laser beams" hitting 4" groups at 60 yd!
This channel educated me quickly ramping up my learning curve
Your great! Can we get an arrow length video?! I'm shooting a v3x 33 with C mods (30.5dl) and want to know what length my arrows should be cut carbon to carbon, appreciate the help!!!
Why superglue your bushings?
I then assume you're going to super glue your points too... why not hot melt?
Same thoughts.
I hot melt my bushings in. You will at one point get a bent pin nock and you will need to change it out. Much easier with hot melt
Another awesome video!! I am curious if you have ever thought of selling “packages”? For instance putting everything you used in this video in a “MFJJ tac arrow package” or a Dan from Elk Shape tac arrow or Elk hunting arrow package? I would like to try this arrow setup and would have definitely purchase it in a package link from the video. I am purchasing them regardless, it would just make it a little easier. I’m putting a list together for other items I need to order and will be doing that soon. Anyway just a thought. Thanks again for the great videos and content.
Hey Josh. Love the video. My friends and I watch all your stuff. Question. Do you try to cut your arrows as short as possible. I have a 30 inch draw length, 70 lb, VXR, Hamskee Epsilon. How short would you cut the arrow if clearance wasn’t an issue? Thanks again!
Headphone users beware at like 27:00 😂 bout lost my ear drums
I did a similar process with my hunting arrows this year, but with a couple of tweaks. My arrow setup included a separate insert and collar system, so I weighed the arrows, then the inserts, then the collars, then the points. I put the components into a fishing lure box that had 12 separate boxes to keep track of the "numbering" for each, then plugged them all into a spreadsheet on a computer so I could balance everything out as much as possible. It took a little time, but at the end I could grab arrow 4, insert 10, collar 3 and tip 9 (for example) and had everything end up within about .3 grains of each other. With using cheap field points, I was pretty happy with that, and I'm sure the arrows shoot better than I do.
I thought Victory marked the strongest part of the spine, not the weakest? I don’t quite understand why they would do it that way since the weakest part of the spine wouldn’t necessarily be 180° from the hardest part. It could be 90° or 32° from the hardest part. Can anyone explain this?
Thanks for the video. Those arrows came from the factory spine tested, but wouldn't the spine change once the arrow is cut to length? This would require you to find the spine again, correct?
One of the most knowledgeable videos in the fact that you show you doing it vs just talking the whole time. Really learned a ton from watching you do every step. I’m going to buy that arrow jig and stuff off your sight.
I literally do this same process but I also weight out my vanes, why not, but not good enough to tell the difference. Some day.....
Love you videos. You definitely put in the time and can tell you really love archery and are passionate about your job. I have one quick question. What glue do you use to glue in you SS insets on your carbon arrows.
So you have found the static spine to be accurate for shooting? Static and dynamic can be different in a bow. I haven't tried victory arrows since there HV standard shafts. I wasn't impressed with durability.
Thanks for showing your build.
With 3DHV Sports, I find about 2-4 out of 12 need the nocks rotating during paper tuning as bare shafts so they all tear the same
What will be your TAC setup your going with this year? For these arrows?
Would you really see that big of a change with accuracy or durability when it comes to arrow squaring?
You can’t shoot these into a bag, I just fletched these bad boys and now they are hanging out the backside. 😂😂 good and bad problem.
Wouldn't those 3 50s be under spined.... If you were shooting over 60 pounds.
Mr MFJJ, you said you’re shooting a 350 spine? At 30 inches DL and 70-75 pounds I thought that sounded a little weak, but then again I’m not near as experienced. Love the content though!
Probably cut the arrow way shorter than 30”
New thumb nail @ 3:17. Be sure to pause it before going to it
Might have been a long video, but that's how long it takes to do the job right. I do the same thing and end up with arrows very close in weight. One thing I like to do as well is check all my shafts for spine consistency. I normally will get 3-4 dozen shafts, then run them through the RAM carbon spine tester and make sure I get 1-2 dozen that are exactly the same as each other. Then I move to what you did above. The only difference for me is I might sort by point weight and match them up, then glue the point in, then shoot the bareshaft through paper to verify weak plane, then mark that in case it is different than the spine alignment mark on the Victory shafts. Then I weigh my fletchings and batch them out per shaft and glue them up from there. So is it tedious? Absolutely, but putting together the absolute best shafts you can that you have 100% confidence in is key. When your arrow is off it's mark, if you have shafts like these then you know it was you. That feeling is priceless and worth the time it takes to make up super awesome arrows.
What arrows would you suggest for someone who's just really getting into archery and not trying to break the bank but not scared to spend money on quality? Looking to hunt this year or next whitetail in Texas. Still new but pretty accurate out to 50-60 yards 5 inch groups at 60 with trash arrows basically. Not losing arrows anymore and wanting to build my own. My brother and I have loved our journey over the last couple of months and you and the other guys have been a huge help and inspiration. 27inch draw 62lb currently shooting a pse drive nxt
Thank you for putting this out with TAC being just around the corner. I might have to pick me up a dozen, i just picked up RIP TKOs, so maybe not. lol
P.S. Happy Early Birthday!
Just got done building a new dozen RIP TKO's like this, finished w/ 4/10th of a grain split. Appreciate what you do.
I thought that super glue dried when you have lack of air
What a FANTASTIC video! I could have watched you for another hour! Man I learned so much about this process. Every minute counted in this one. Thank you MFJJ. Purchased a true fletching jig! 🤜🤛
I’m gonna purchase these arrows you said these are for targets yes?
What was the total arrow weight and FOC? I think I missed it
This was such an educational video thank you!
Great video appreciate you for sharing your knowledge and expertise on building a perfect arrow it just makes sense appreciate all your content you share ❤
I've found that cleaning the carbon dust from inside the shafts with 91%+ alcohol and q-tips really improves the adhesion. I also wipe down the shafts and the base of every vane- no matter what vane company.
use denatured alcohol or it will leave a residue
@@rileymod6541 SO THE STUFF IN THE PAINTING SECTION ? , is better than the alcohol we use for cuts and stuff . wow , i never gave it more thoughts . same thing with acetone , i have seen people use the dollar tree version that has vitamin E added lol .
I don’t get why people change their setup for TAC. Use what your going to hunt with. If you can’t hit a fake animal that’s not moving then. Don’t even think about trying to kill a real animal.
because most peoples hunting setup is meant for 20-40yds not 60-120
TAC isn’t the same as hunting and so people often want to shoot rigs that will perform better than a typical hunting set up might.
Always interested to see what people build, but may I suggest that’s far too much vane and too much helical for a long range arrow. 2” long and 0.35” approx vane with slight offset and the groups will be much better at long range. Better still, drop the 5mm XVs and shoot a 4mm with higher GPI for a better balanced (for target) arrows.
I’m guessing you hoard all the yellow nocks? Bought a dozen from Lancaster they came with yellow nocks, bought a dozen from you all at podium and they came orange 😂😂😂
I love how real this video is! Keep hustling!
Josh. I realize these are target arrows but thought I would get a suggestion from you. I like Victory .166 arrows but cannot seem to build a light enough arrow. They come with 50 gr.. Inserts, I shoot 100 grain broadness and a 350 spine weight. My arrows are 27.5 inches with three TAC vanes. Most arrows are coming in just shy of 450 grains. I would love to find a combination that is 425 or less… any suggestions???
Awesome thanks! I’ve bought everything you just used from you thank you.
Wow awesome Josh! I’m learning so much off your videos. Thanks a million. These guys are the best, I’ve dealt with there pro shop they’ve taken care of me with everything I’ve purchased buy from them guys! They have helped me a ton on everything and is newbie and I’m learning a ton from them there the best guys really truly are. 🙏🏽
Hey can you give me a suggestion for a arrow and broadleaf combo for southern whitetail deer my bow is a 29 draw and 60 lb of draw weight shooting 40 yards and under be specific,i have been a fan of gold tip arrows but open to anything thanks
.1s of gr are far less of a consideration than wind, and how you shoot shot from shot. That's not to mention the fact your using a scale that is accurate to +- .1 gr. That .1 is truly only a reflection of its accuracy in a specific temp and humidity range, and covered from any air flow in the room. That's not mentioning it being perfectly level is a concern. All that is to say that with some straight forward math you're chasing less than a .1% off total weight. That will not be measurable in any meaningful way. Getting better at reading wind conditions and overall shooting ability is far more of a concern than chasing that weight. It is quite literally an utter waste of time. Honestly the thing you spend the least amount of time and concern on (fletching the arrow) is 10+ times the importance of chasing those couple .1s your not truly capable of measuring in any meaningful way. If that process makes you feel better go for it, but to say it makes a measurable difference is just not true.
Do you measure and adjust nock tension? That would be further still more important. When you set the arrows on the scale are they set on in the same way across all arrows on the same spot in the scale? No, that effects weight readings.
so I have what may seem like a silly question, but if you're using a nock insert, and you break off a nock having it get hit by another arrow, is there still enough left to pull the nock out and re-nock the arrow? Would a nock pin insert accomplish the same thing and be easier to re-nock the arrow? Or is there not any difference?
Zwolnij kamerzystę i zatrudnij takiego, który potrafi operować zoom'em. Z takiej odległości nic nie widać co robisz. Łapa w dół 👎
VIDEO IDEA - how true or accurate is the "spine align" on the vaps? have a shop near me that says with their expensive spine checking tool (just a hunter here mind the inaccurate verbiage) that the spine align logo is or CAN be inaccurate......just a thought from a fan in south Florida. happy hunting
Hey Josh, just watched a vid with Dan, ranch fairy and iron will bill. They were taking about arrow weight and velocity down range at 60yds. The consensus was heavier arrow is better for kinetic energy and impact was does make sense. Bit do believe in lighter is good as well in certain applications. Would love to see a UA-cam vid by mfjj on his recommendation on arrow weight for elk hunting.
Thank you for leaving in all the bits where you may not be talking but you're working. I have taught myself quite a bit through UA-cam, including rebuilding the 289 in my 65 mustang and replacing transmission. Research becomes a deep dive because content is cut out or "assumed we know that."
You can tell me I need to glue the veins on, but how many strokes you use of the glue, at what angle and pressure you apply to the vein as you sintall it is important information i can get by watching.
Does it help to bare shaft tune target arrows before fletching? I have no experience building any arrows so I hope you don't mind if I asked a dumb question. Thank You!
What was the total weight of the arrow and what poundage are you shooting at TAC?
I’m no mathematician but ~207gr arrow with ~120gr point makes ~337gr total arrow weight
Yes at 5 grains per vane 5 grains for the nock 2 grains for the bushing maybe 3 grains in glue
120gr out front with 6.4gpi in the XV 350… how’s he getting 15% or better FOC?
MFJJ just want you to know someone is using your channel to scam people according to your channel I just won a new bow.
Do you have an arrow building kit put together that you sell . ? New to this . This looks like something I would really enjoy doing
On Victory arrows the line is supposed to represent the stiff side of the arrow not the weak side.
No way - Lightweight arrows !!!! Thought everyone shoots shovel handles these days ???
The one time I really wish there was a “spec” scene shot at the end of a video!!! Or at least links in the description for buying all these parts…
Have you tried rubbing a very small amount of string wax to the shank of the nock to ease the insert into the bushing?
Spine align or knock tune. If you knock tune there is no point in spine aligning other then a staring point. Inside out Precision does a video about this I think.
A plastic reloading block/tray would tame those pesky points and inserts from rolling around
I just want to confirm that you didn't add any glue or hot melt on the points to keep them in the arrow?
I'm looking for arrow advice , I currently have RIP TKO 300, 50gr insert, 100 gr tip, I'm new to deer hunting but people are telling me I need to be heavier ? I shoot a phase 4 33, with a 31" draw at 70# .
Just giving you my experience on the subject. I'm 47 and have been shooting a bow since I was about six years old and bow hunted since I was about 14. I went down the rabbit hole with .166 and "adult arrows" weighing from 600 to 754 grains. I'm 30.5 draw at 70 lb. Practicing at known distances on stationary targets had me very confident. Ended up mis-judging my target Buck by a couple yards and gave him a shave. Absolutely no need for the extra arrow Mass especially at our DL and poundage on whitetail. My opinion is try to be between 425 and 525 grains and no more than 150 total up front. Also found out that micro diameter was not stabilizing nearly as well as 204 or 244 arrows even at extra-heavy spine. I'm back to 244 and 472 grain arrow.
Building arrows like this is similar to the way I build golf clubs. Nice job MFJJ.
MFJJ how do you keep the insert from being pushed out, even a little, if you have already glued in the bushing? Wont the pressure inside the shaft push back against the insert? I always remove my nocks when putting in inserts for this reason. As meticulous as your arrow build is I cant see you making that mistake.
Same question. It doesn’t always happen, but enough to make me comment here.
Great video. What is the helical you put on those arrows. Left or Right???
I'm gonna be going through all this on the tko shafts I ordered from you yesterday once they come in
What draw weight and length are you using the 350
Awesome video As usual.
Which arrows were these again? The tko elites or ?
What specific nocks and nock adapters are you using?
I gotta get these tools. So I can try this thanks. 🙏
Great video very informative as usual.👍🏻✌🏻
Put a swipe of string wax on the nicks they go in those bushings a lot easier
You explained everything when you make a video keep up the great work
How are you able to shoot up to a 100 and past while keeping the same anchor point and not having to either anchor lower or lift your head up and not have your nose touching the string? I can get to 90 but once it’s pasted that the bottom half of my sight is out of my peep. My bow is shooting a 285 FPS sigh tape from black gold. I also use a nose button and a hamskea peep 5/32.
Set your peep at 40 when you setup your bow. Will keep you at the same anchor at 100 or more
Sorry if I missed it, but which nocks did you use?
Would you hunt with the same arrows? Or just for TAC
Hi Jason, I made up some of the same arrows, how do you over come the difficulty of getting them out of foam 3D targets? Thanks, Wes
Arrow Lube
Could you please write #TDD on all your tac arrows lol
Why can’t i find a left helical jig?
Do you have a link to the inserts you used?
Very helpful, thank you.
What are those veins and specs plz?
Great video Thank you
Thanks for showing us what you do and to help us all shoot our best.
What helical do you do on 3 fletch?
A complete tool list would be solid
Now for hunting arrows :D
What poundage did you shoot for tac ? Why did you go with the 350?
Was wondering the same thing…
That was a literal speed build
What vanes are those?
I learned a ton thanks
What glue was that?
Why do you glue in your nock bushings?
And a little string wax really helps get the nocks in..,,
Lots of good info, thank you. How are these going to handle cross wind? Will the lighter arrow be more susceptible to wind drift?
sitting here watching you fletch arrows while i break in a new shooting glove...i asked hows your day going expecting a response
kinda rude of you to not respond
Thank you for taking the time to make such a thorough video. I learned a ton!
Thank you