Honestly was my first time doing this today…didnt have the money for a mechanic and i do mostly all my own work anyway…you my friend need to be teaching classes…followed this video…torqued everything to spec…did it in a little under two hrs…thanks my man..keep putting out quality content
My last car had a wheel bearing go bad right before I got rid of it. Took me two days of hell to replace it. Bought a 12 Malibu and within 10K miles I had to replace it's wheel bearing. The part was way more expensive than the previous car. But I found your video with the part link, and this video helped me get everything done in less than 40 minutes (air hammer really helps for the stuck bearings). Way easier than my Ford. Thanks, my friend!
You should PUMP the brake pedal before driving to take up the gap between the pads and the rotor, otherwise the first time you apply the brakes your pedal will sink to the floor and ( possibly ) not stop the car. PUMP THE PEDAL BEFORE DRIVING !!!!!!
@@All4HimRacingVideos proud to say this one only took me 4 hours. 2 hours of which were beating on the old bearing. Works good. I was quoted $500 for parts and labor. Spent $165 on a hub. Paid myself $75 an hour to fix it myself.. Thanks!
Great video. Helped me thru the entire process. Side note, you really need to beat the piss out of the old bearing to break it free. It’s completely rusted and corroded into the knuckle.
This is the first video I found on replacing the wheel bearing for my Malibu. It is the BEST video I have come across for car repair. Thank you very much for your detailed explanation.
Great video. I would suggest you probably don’t even have to take the caliper apart. You could just loosen the caliber bracket bolts and take the entire assembly with the rotor off. Just make the job a bit more simple
Thank you for getting me through a difficult job. I wouldn’t have wanted to do it without your help. I wish the torque measurements, when putting things back together, would have been in the video.
I had to laugh a little when you showed the replacement part. It was the exact same one I ordered online. It made me very happy to know I made a good choice. It earned you a new subscriber.
All4HimRacingVideos It went pretty well. Driver's side hub was a bit stubborn coming out and that top bolt on the hub is a pain in the ass but otherwise, all went smoothly.
Very informative, Thank you those wanting torque specs. Caliper bracket bolts 85 FT lbs hub bearing bolts 55 Ft lbs caliper bolts 35 Ft lbs lug nuts 100 ft lbs Axel nut 159- 160 Ft lbs.
Thank you for your help!!!! You made it easy on me 2 1/2 hours later and I'm done with both sides. Right side was the culprit but I did them both. Hell ya...
Thank you for this clear and concise video. I had to obliterate my old one w a mini sledge to get it off. But thanks to your video the car is much quieter. Definitely subscribing.
Thanks a lot for the time and effort you put into this video. Great camera work making sure your steps were viewable. Very helpful and much appreciated.
Congratulation for a job well done , the video is crystal clear , no music so we are able to understand all the details perfectly. Thanks many many Times for your help and I hope to see another video from you .
OK I just bought the AllData subscription for this vehicle to get the proper torque spec for brakes and wheel bearing repacement. Most of the bolts are TTY and can't be re-used. Here are the specs: Hub assembly bolts(do not re-use): 74 ft/lb + 75* Drive shaft nut: Tighten in three passes: 111 ft/lb; back off 45*; 184 ft/lb.(intructions that came with parts stated 159 ft/lb). Brake caliper bracket bolt, front(do not re-use); Tighten in three passes: 110 ft/lb + 45* + 15* Brake caliper bracket bolt rear(do not re-use): Tighten in two passes: 74 ft/lb + 60* Brake caliper pin, front and rear: 20 ft/lb
@@All4HimRacingVideos LOL I just called the Chevy dealer and they barely even stock these bolts. Then I spoke to the service advisor, and he told me he used to be a tech and never replaced them! So probably you could torque them to the initial values before the additional degreed turns and be fine.
I second that it is very important to properly torque the axle/ CV shaft nut as close to what the service manual states, but you'd be hard pressed to find ANY tech that replaces caliper bracket bolts, and probably even hub bolts. You'd need new bolts every time you replace brake rotors in the case of the caliper bracket. Not happening in any shop. You'd be lucky if they used some blue loc tite, if anything, but I guarantee you there are tens of thousands of these GM vehicles running around with bolts that were run down with an impact gun without a second thought. You'll be fine.
@@doug960 The GM manual does state that, but none of the dealer techs actually do it. What I did was just to torque them to the initial values without the additional degreed turns.
I am a teacher on small engines and I am very very thorough and care about other people that can't catch on. I sometimes have to go three or four different routes with them to get them to understand.. I'll have to say that you are great on what you're doing and teaching I'm impressed.
@@All4HimRacingVideos if you're still on the line with me then I would like to tell you the problem I got with my 2011 Malibu. Completely got me stumped.
Thanks for posting - very helpful!!!! Allowed us to successfully complete a front driver side wheel bearing replacement (our first ever effort) which removed a noticeable humming noise.
Good job and good video I watched another video prior to this one and the guy went out of his way to disconnect the tie rod end the strut in the lower ball joint he removed the whole knuckle unfinished installing the bearing on the bench He has to leave a comment so I did I told him that disconnecting all of that was unnecessary show good video and nice job
Best vid out. The one i did was seized but easily came out due to an other mechanic 1yr ago and not properly sanding or even greasing the area. You helped alot thanks
*** 7th Gen Malibu. 2008-2012*** (I notice someone posted questionable specs and partially incorrect specs.) Follow these specs and you will be golden. No bolts for this task are TTY or TY listed on their bolt heads on numerous 7th gen's I've done, if your bolts have TY on them, replace them. You may use a small amount of medium loctite if you desire; it's not required but I always use it on everything except the hub nuts, especially brake\suspension control arm bolts get cleaned then smothered. Hub assembly to knuckle bolts: 85 ft/lb. Axle drive shaft hub nut: 159 ft/lb. (squeeze brake, on ground.) Intermediate cv axle shaft bracket to engine passenger side: 44 ft\lb. Brake caliper bracket to knuckle bolts: - 2007 and Earlier: 85 ft/lb. - 2008 and later: 96 ft/lb. Brake caliper pin 'mounting' bolts front and rear: 26 ft/lb. Brake hose banjo fitting bolt for drum\disc both: 37 ft/lb. Lug nuts: hand tight for centering then torque: 100 ft/lb If anyone has questions about 7th gen Malibu torque specs, feel free to ask.
@Dev jb torque specs were much needed just purchase a brand new husky torque wrench from homeDepot will finally get to use it, and theTYBOLTS what bolts do i use in its place 🤔 added loctite to my list thanks for sharing👍👍
@@orionsimerl6539 1997 to 2012 Malibu is "M24 X 2.0" 32mm. If you have a 35mm on the front axles of 2012 Malibu, i would make sure it's the correct one. "M24 X 2.0". Either 32mm or 35mm, the Spec is 159 ft/lb. for 2008-2012.
@@DevJB. I do. Changed wheel hub for 4th time on car yesterday. (Cheap parts get about 75k miles out em ($45)) Fits the threads. Didnt change axle on driver's side. I don't what the explanation is. Since it's a big nut it might work with a 35 or a 36.
@@All4HimRacingVideos Yes sir i got all the best parts from Advance because I didn't want to buy cheap ones that would go bad quick. I went on an did both sides even though one side was the problem, Damn side was seized so I spent a hour an half using a sledge hammer an Penetrating oil, finally was able to gently use a flat head to pry it back. The second side was a piece of cake , found out the car had a cheap part with junk yard number on it. Slapped the best brakes an new rotors while I was there. After the last couple weeks studying your video I got this done bro, i just want to say Thank You so much, I learned a lot growing up about working on cars but never did this before.Now I will never forget it I truly will always appreciate it. Car runs and sounds brand new. Take care;)
Thank you for this video. Although I had to call for back up to get the actual wheel bearing off because I'm not strong enough to knock it loose....I did get all the way to that point by myself. Great video. You're awesome.
*_Replaced on my extra 4x4 and 10,000 miles of gmc tough terrain along with our heavy snowDyson-Cyclone where 4x4 is always in need and they are performing great.will buy again and purchased same 4 my friend's Olds aurora and perfect fit and price is great.recommend that you try when u need wheel bearing's replaced._*
Great info only thing I would have done differently would be taking the brake bracket and cylinder off ass one piece. This video humbled me a lot I have A much bigger appreciation for air tools and power tools. Great job great detail 👌🏾
Will this procedure fix the traction control/abs maintenance light/symbol that shows up on my dash??? If so I save some money doing this myself... thanks for the video 😁👍
Ive been looking for a video as such for 2 weeks, which i will use as reference...if i can first figure out my '12 malibus timing issue, which I'm replacing solenoids in the a.m.
Great tutorial so far. I got as far as getting ready to remove the 35 mm nut but bearing keeps spinning. If anyone has any idea how to keep it still while trying to remove the nut, it would be much appreciated.
What a great video..... clear, great verbal instruction, and camera work! Curious why the choice to use lower cost assembly, rather than Moog or similar?..in your opinions, is there a great difference between a $50 dollar assembly and one costing twice as much...I have to replace mine with 145k and need advice on the assembly to use...
This particular customer wanted the lowest cost option because funds were tight. The ACdelco or like is the best option for long term if you have the funds to purchase.
Don’t have the tools to do mine at the house so I’m having to pay $1300 for both front bearings to get replaced. My car sounds like mud tires are on it when driving. Very loud humming. Almost like a master flow exhausted got installed lol. Great video, wish I could do this myself.
Very good tutorial and timely because I have one to replace so thank you for the info. I am curious why you discontinued recommending Detroit Axle parts?
You should check the plug mate up before you tighten the 3 rear bolts. Some aftermarket ( multi fit ) hubs have wrong plugs..you need to find this out before you put it all back together. You might have to do it all again !!!
Thanks for the great video. This made it so much easier considering I've never done this before. Wasn't too hard actually. Took about 2 hours ( everything was rusted on 😂)
If I may chime in on the cheap out.. if you can afford the $200 ones. Like Moog or AcDelco, buy them. I've gotten cheap hubs for my Malibu and my explorer I previously owned and both, within 6 -12 months, were howling again. I just bought moogs for my '12 Malibu that I have to put in this weekend. They're warranty is like 3 years. Reviews saying they last even longer
I’m doing this for the second time. Replacement hubs I got from Detroit axle are grinding after only almost 10k miles. Piece of information I picked up the first time was to let the weight of the car down on the wheel and then tighten the axle nut.
Thanks for the feedback on these axles! I've personally driven over 20K so far with no issue, but I intend to do follow up on them if they start to fail me.
For some reason I didn’t get notifications from your reply. I have a 2011 Malibu ltz. I just got back from harbor freight with a 3 way puller. I heard from mechanic about ruining the joints in the shaft so I’ve tried steering clear of knocking on the spline with a hammer.
Hey there isn't a part of you torquin down the axle nut lol I'm going to change a bearing for a friend of mine. On his 2010 malibu.. I have a wheel hub puller that mounts to the bearing / lug nut splines that you hit with a maul or big ass hammer lol.... I've done 20+ bearings in my life an finally invested in one of these. I live in WI so ever wheel bearing is seized an molded to to the mount. How many pounds of torque for the axle nut. Also awesome video man!!!! The only torque specs you really need to worry about is that axle nut.
Drive shaft nut: Tighten in three passes: 111 ft/lb; back off 45*; 184 ft/lb.(intructions that came with parts stated 159 ft/lb). Use the part manufacturer specs.
Did u take it apart,reassemble,then film this? Because both of mine needed hub remover with slide hammer with at least 40-50 slides to finally break it loose.It just doesnt seem logical that this came off so easy for you.Either way,thanks for posting.Very useful video.
@@All4HimRacingVideos oh ok lol.it might be a good idea to let people know that so they know what to expect.That way they dont get discouraged.because the video makes it look so quick and easy.I thought maybe there was a hidden cotter key and worried id break something.
So this is something I could do by myself ? That video broke everything down to a tee. My question is though, should order new bolts or just reuse them ? Also is is different in the back ?
Yes the back if different but in my opinion easier because there is no acle shaft. The bolts could be replaced of you want but is typically unnecessary
try this instead... before you remove the brakes... put a thick flat blade screwdriver into a vent slot.. now loosen the axle nut.. once the axle nut is looen.. then remove the brake parts.. and remove the hub.. to tighten the nut.. put the car on the ground
I was looking for that part too... Understandable now... It's important to torque to the bearing manufacturers specification as it is linked to the pre-load on the bearing...In other words if the factory original states 159 but the bearing manufacturer states 125 ... torque it to 125... Excellent video clearly spoken and good camera angles !
This is the humming noise that gets louder with acceleration? My wife noticed something in her car and that is what I can head . Pretty loud. I changed the tires and it is still there . Quites some when turning right. Im trying to get an idea of what it could be.
Yes! Humming that gets worst with speed, and get get better when turning becuase it transfers the motions sideway. Wheel bearing is a very possible cause
Here is what I found. For some reason these values are different all over the web so I recommend you also do your own research. Caliper Mount - 30FT/LBS Caliper Bracket - 38 - 45FT/LBS Hub Assm to Steering Knuckle - 80FT/LBS Axle Nut - 159FT/LBS
What about service esc it's been to the mechanic can't find the problem gages go Christmas and loss of all gages Trac control off and loss of pwr steering and engine power till it hits 35 mph also the security light or car with lines stays on but the event don't happen all the time I'm thinking a wire short in harness .also I ck the info on the steering wheel said max speed was 29 mph I had my malibu over 40 to go to work it's a mystery any help on this would be appreciated btw it's a 2012 model
Great video!! Question: The bearing part number you shared belongs to any side of the car? (Left or right) or should be a different part number for each side?
Thread lock is usually fine but I personally dont use it in these parts. Some foreign makes though (such as BMW) do require threadlocker, but that is by design and the only time I used it. Good rule of thumb is only use if the bolt removed had it, otherwise it just makes the next change that much harder.
@@All4HimRacingVideos very. It shows that this procedure can be completed in 30mn if nothing is stuck on the way. I watched it to do it 2 years ago nd the other bearing starts humming so i needed your refresher course
Man, this has got to be one of the most detailed and well done vids I've seen! I wish I could give two thumbs up!
👍👍👍👍👍👍agreed ill give thumbs up for both.
SUBSCRIBED
Yes, I was going to say the same thing. What an awesome well detailed video. Thanks!!!!!
Honestly was my first time doing this today…didnt have the money for a mechanic and i do mostly all my own work anyway…you my friend need to be teaching classes…followed this video…torqued everything to spec…did it in a little under two hrs…thanks my man..keep putting out quality content
Very glad it was helpful!
My last car had a wheel bearing go bad right before I got rid of it. Took me two days of hell to replace it. Bought a 12 Malibu and within 10K miles I had to replace it's wheel bearing. The part was way more expensive than the previous car. But I found your video with the part link, and this video helped me get everything done in less than 40 minutes (air hammer really helps for the stuck bearings). Way easier than my Ford. Thanks, my friend!
Very glad to hear we could help you out!
You should PUMP the brake pedal before driving to take up the gap between the pads and the rotor, otherwise the first time you apply the brakes your pedal will sink to the floor and ( possibly ) not stop the car. PUMP THE PEDAL BEFORE DRIVING !!!!!!
Yes yes!
Yea u right that would b catastrophic
Back again, one bearing went out a year ago and now the other went out.... Helping me yet again my friend.
Hope it goes as well as the last one for you!
@@All4HimRacingVideos proud to say this one only took me 4 hours. 2 hours of which were beating on the old bearing. Works good. I was quoted $500 for parts and labor. Spent $165 on a hub. Paid myself $75 an hour to fix it myself.. Thanks!
Very informative step by step procedure. Creator spoke in clear and concise voice and was very knowledgeable.
This is by far the best how to car repair video I have ever seen ! 5 stars brother!
Thanks Joseph!
All4HimRacingVideos you’re welcome
Great video. Helped me thru the entire process.
Side note, you really need to beat the piss out of the old bearing to break it free. It’s completely rusted and corroded into the knuckle.
Thank you....excellent job making this video. Much appreciated!
This is the first video I found on replacing the wheel bearing for my Malibu. It is the BEST video I have come across for car repair. Thank you very much for your detailed explanation.
So glad it was helpful to you Fred! Just curious, how did your repair go?
Great video. I would suggest you probably don’t even have to take the caliper apart. You could just loosen the caliber bracket bolts and take the entire assembly with the rotor off. Just make the job a bit more simple
Good suggestion. Perhaps others may find that helpful.
Thank you for getting me through a difficult job. I wouldn’t have wanted to do it without your help. I wish the torque measurements, when putting things back together, would have been in the video.
Im sorry for that, and sadly youtube wouldnt let me add later. But glad the rest of it was helpful!
Just go online and spend 1-min and look it up...no big deal and doesn't require real work.
"All for Him racing" he's a man of God💪🏾💯
The core of why we do what we do!
This is by far the best how to video I've seen here on UA-cam. If he was close by I would buy him a beer and say THANK YOU.
I had to laugh a little when you showed the replacement part. It was the exact same one I ordered online. It made me very happy to know I made a good choice. It earned you a new subscriber.
Now that's funny! Hope the project went well for you!
All4HimRacingVideos It went pretty well. Driver's side hub was a bit stubborn coming out and that top bolt on the hub is a pain in the ass but otherwise, all went smoothly.
Glad to hear it!
Very informative, Thank you
those wanting torque specs.
Caliper bracket bolts 85 FT lbs
hub bearing bolts 55 Ft lbs
caliper bolts 35 Ft lbs
lug nuts 100 ft lbs
Axel nut 159- 160 Ft lbs.
How dare people to dislike this video, this video is perfect
I just can't believe I needed a 13mm, 14mm & 15mm to work on this project. VERY good video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for your help!!!! You made it easy on me 2 1/2 hours later and I'm done with both sides. Right side was the culprit but I did them both. Hell ya...
So glad it was helpful!
Man I wana tell u I'm not very experienced working on cars so I watched this video while doing it and it got me threw every step thank u
Very glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this clear and concise video. I had to obliterate my old one w a mini sledge to get it off. But thanks to your video the car is much quieter. Definitely subscribing.
Very glad it was helpful for you Will!
Great video getting ready to change out the hubs on my grandsons malibu 2011LT YOU MADE IT LOOK so easy thanks for sharing👍
Good luck with your project!
@@All4HimRacingVideos 👍👍
Thanks a lot for the time and effort you put into this video. Great camera work making sure your steps were viewable. Very helpful and much appreciated.
You're very welcome, happy to help!
Congratulation for a job well done , the video is crystal clear , no music so we are able to understand all the details perfectly. Thanks many many Times for your help and I hope to see another video from you .
Thanks Sylvain! Good luck with your repair!
@@All4HimRacingVideos Merci beaucoup !!
OK I just bought the AllData subscription for this vehicle to get the proper torque spec for brakes and wheel bearing repacement. Most of the bolts are TTY and can't be re-used. Here are the specs:
Hub assembly bolts(do not re-use): 74 ft/lb + 75*
Drive shaft nut: Tighten in three passes: 111 ft/lb; back off 45*; 184 ft/lb.(intructions that came with parts stated 159 ft/lb).
Brake caliper bracket bolt, front(do not re-use); Tighten in three passes: 110 ft/lb + 45* + 15*
Brake caliper bracket bolt rear(do not re-use): Tighten in two passes: 74 ft/lb + 60*
Brake caliper pin, front and rear: 20 ft/lb
Awesome! Thanks for the specs, pinning this to the top to help others out!
@@All4HimRacingVideos LOL I just called the Chevy dealer and they barely even stock these bolts. Then I spoke to the service advisor, and he told me he used to be a tech and never replaced them! So probably you could torque them to the initial values before the additional degreed turns and be fine.
Really important to torque axle bolt to specs for sure. Thanks
I second that it is very important to properly torque the axle/ CV shaft nut as close to what the service manual states, but you'd be hard pressed to find ANY tech that replaces caliper bracket bolts, and probably even hub bolts. You'd need new bolts every time you replace brake rotors in the case of the caliper bracket. Not happening in any shop. You'd be lucky if they used some blue loc tite, if anything, but I guarantee you there are tens of thousands of these GM vehicles running around with bolts that were run down with an impact gun without a second thought. You'll be fine.
@@doug960 The GM manual does state that, but none of the dealer techs actually do it. What I did was just to torque them to the initial values without the additional degreed turns.
I am a teacher on small engines and I am very very thorough and care about other people that can't catch on. I sometimes have to go three or four different routes with them to get them to understand.. I'll have to say that you are great on what you're doing and teaching I'm impressed.
Thank you very much, that really means a lot!
@@All4HimRacingVideos if you're still on the line with me then I would like to tell you the problem I got with my 2011 Malibu. Completely got me stumped.
Sure what are you having issues with?
Great job with the video. I really appreciate u passing knowledge off to the public. Thanks a lot again bro!
Thanks for posting - very helpful!!!!
Allowed us to successfully complete a front driver side wheel bearing replacement (our first ever effort) which removed a noticeable humming noise.
Very glad this was helpful!!
Good job and good video I watched another video prior to this one and the guy went out of his way to disconnect the tie rod end the strut in the lower ball joint he removed the whole knuckle unfinished installing the bearing on the bench
He has to leave a comment so I did I told him that disconnecting all of that was unnecessary show good video and nice job
Thank you! Good luck with your repair!
Best vid out. The one i did was seized but easily came out due to an other mechanic 1yr ago and not properly sanding or even greasing the area. You helped alot thanks
Just replace the wheel bearings on my 2012 Malibu less than an hour thanks to your video
I need to do this now and this is such a great demonstration! So easy to follow! Thank you so much!
*** 7th Gen Malibu. 2008-2012*** (I notice someone posted questionable specs and partially incorrect specs.)
Follow these specs and you will be golden. No bolts for this task are TTY or TY listed on their bolt heads on numerous 7th gen's I've done, if your bolts have TY on them, replace them.
You may use a small amount of medium loctite if you desire; it's not required but I always use it on everything except the hub nuts, especially brake\suspension control arm bolts get cleaned then smothered.
Hub assembly to knuckle bolts: 85 ft/lb.
Axle drive shaft hub nut: 159 ft/lb. (squeeze brake, on ground.)
Intermediate cv axle shaft bracket to engine passenger side: 44 ft\lb.
Brake caliper bracket to knuckle bolts:
- 2007 and Earlier: 85 ft/lb.
- 2008 and later: 96 ft/lb.
Brake caliper pin 'mounting' bolts front and rear: 26 ft/lb.
Brake hose banjo fitting bolt for drum\disc both: 37 ft/lb.
Lug nuts: hand tight for centering then torque: 100 ft/lb
If anyone has questions about 7th gen Malibu torque specs, feel free to ask.
@Dev jb torque specs were much needed just purchase a brand new husky torque wrench from homeDepot will finally get to use it, and theTYBOLTS what bolts do i use in its place 🤔 added loctite to my list thanks for sharing👍👍
Ŵw
There are different axel nuts. Mine is 35 2012.
@@orionsimerl6539 1997 to 2012 Malibu is "M24 X 2.0" 32mm.
If you have a 35mm on the front axles of 2012 Malibu, i would make sure it's the correct one. "M24 X 2.0". Either 32mm or 35mm, the Spec is 159 ft/lb. for 2008-2012.
@@DevJB. I do. Changed wheel hub for 4th time on car yesterday. (Cheap parts get about 75k miles out em ($45)) Fits the threads. Didnt change axle on driver's side. I don't what the explanation is. Since it's a big nut it might work with a 35 or a 36.
Great vid! Have a feeling this will make tomorrow a helluva lot easier, appreciate ya
Good luck with your repair!
Got everything ordered tonight. Been studying this video for a week or 2 now...I'll let you know how it goes..wish me luck;)
Good luck! Hope the videos helps you out!
@@All4HimRacingVideos Yes sir i got all the best parts from Advance because I didn't want to buy cheap ones that would go bad quick. I went on an did both sides even though one side was the problem, Damn side was seized so I spent a hour an half using a sledge hammer an Penetrating oil, finally was able to gently use a flat head to pry it back. The second side was a piece of cake , found out the car had a cheap part with junk yard number on it. Slapped the best brakes an new rotors while I was there. After the last couple weeks studying your video I got this done bro, i just want to say Thank You so much, I learned a lot growing up about working on cars but never did this before.Now I will never forget it I truly will always appreciate it. Car runs and sounds brand new. Take care;)
@@vvannaplayagam3292 Awesome! Glad to hear it!
You couldn't ask for a better video thank you my friend
You're welcome! Good luck with your project!
Thank you for this video. Although I had to call for back up to get the actual wheel bearing off because I'm not strong enough to knock it loose....I did get all the way to that point by myself. Great video. You're awesome.
Excellent details. I'm a woman and will try to change the hub myself. I'll let you know how it goes.😊
*_Replaced on my extra 4x4 and 10,000 miles of gmc tough terrain along with our heavy snowDyson-Cyclone where 4x4 is always in need and they are performing great.will buy again and purchased same 4 my friend's Olds aurora and perfect fit and price is great.recommend that you try when u need wheel bearing's replaced._*
Great video! You saved me hundreds! Replaced the rear and front wheel hub. Thank you. Passed the knowledge on.
Awesome! Very glad to hear it was helpful for you!
@@All4HimRacingVideos Thank you! I am FOREVER grateful!
@@victorjohnson4000 you're welcome!
Happy you didn’t skip any steps
Hope it was helpful to you!
Thanks a lot buddy
Video helped me change the wheel bearings in my wife’s car….. she loves me again lol
Perfect video
Glad it helped Robert! Happy wife happy life!
This video was extremely helpful and a great way to help save money
Great info only thing I would have done differently would be taking the brake bracket and cylinder off ass one piece. This video humbled me a lot I have A much bigger appreciation for air tools and power tools. Great job great detail 👌🏾
Glad it was helpful! Yes, wanted to show how to do with everyday tools to help more people out.
Great video, thank you so very much for being clear & precise I’m gonna need to do this in the morning to my daughter’ car. God bless
Good luck with your project!
Very well detailed and exact. Need more videos like this!
Outstanding step by step video! Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful
Will this procedure fix the traction control/abs maintenance light/symbol that shows up on my dash??? If so I save some money doing this myself... thanks for the video 😁👍
Great job on explaining the procedure. The info was very useful.
Good clean instruction video,well done sir
Thanks jaybird!
great job! Gives me the confidence to do this in my driveway :)
Thankfully pretty straight forward. Hardest part is getting the old hub out. I edited to keep it moving but was not super quick
Thank you that was soo helpful keep posting new videos like this
Sir, Thank you so much , you video is so great and esay to follow. God Bless.
You're welcome!
Great step by step video.. Thank you for the info and the lesson on how to DIY
Glad it was helpful!
Ive been looking for a video as such for 2 weeks, which i will use as reference...if i can first figure out my '12 malibus timing issue, which I'm replacing solenoids in the a.m.
Very well detailed vid. You may need a bigger hammer to get the bearing out.
Thanks for this! I'll be doing this job later this month. Its nice that you don't need to pop ball joints to do it.
Good luck with it! Not too bad compared to others I've done.
Great tutorial so far. I got as far as getting ready to remove the 35 mm nut but bearing keeps spinning. If anyone has any idea how to keep it still while trying to remove the nut, it would be much appreciated.
Is the car in park? If its in park the CV shaft should not rotate.
see my post above
What a great video..... clear, great verbal instruction, and camera work! Curious why the choice to use lower cost assembly, rather than Moog or similar?..in your opinions, is there a great difference between a $50 dollar assembly and one costing twice as much...I have to replace mine with 145k and need advice on the assembly to use...
This particular customer wanted the lowest cost option because funds were tight. The ACdelco or like is the best option for long term if you have the funds to purchase.
Great easy to follow video. Thanks, dude!
You're welcome!
Don’t have the tools to do mine at the house so I’m having to pay $1300 for both front bearings to get replaced. My car sounds like mud tires are on it when driving. Very loud humming. Almost like a master flow exhausted got installed lol. Great video, wish I could do this myself.
Many auto part stores will rent you the tools you need. You can try to ask about pricing, usually very reasonable
Very good tutorial and timely because I have one to replace so thank you for the info. I am curious why you discontinued recommending Detroit Axle parts?
You should check the plug mate up before you tighten the 3 rear bolts. Some aftermarket ( multi fit ) hubs have wrong plugs..you need to find this out before you put it all back together. You might have to do it all again !!!
Good suggestions
thanks it really help a lot. did it in my 2009 Pontiac G6.
Glad it was helpful!
Great informative video, thank you so much!
Thanks for the great video. This made it so much easier considering I've never done this before. Wasn't too hard actually. Took about 2 hours ( everything was rusted on 😂)
Glad it was helpful!
Doing this on Friday, thanks a lot bud
Thanks a million your video really help me out today appreciate it keep up the great work!!
Glad it was helpful!
Good job👏👏. How would I know that the wheel bearing are bad?
I stated how the one in video was bad. There are a few good videos on youtube explaining how to determine if a wheel bearing was bad
If I may chime in on the cheap out.. if you can afford the $200 ones. Like Moog or AcDelco, buy them. I've gotten cheap hubs for my Malibu and my explorer I previously owned and both, within 6 -12 months, were howling again. I just bought moogs for my '12 Malibu that I have to put in this weekend. They're warranty is like 3 years. Reviews saying they last even longer
Great information Nick!
I’m doing this for the second time. Replacement hubs I got from Detroit axle are grinding after only almost 10k miles. Piece of information I picked up the first time was to let the weight of the car down on the wheel and then tighten the axle nut.
Thanks for the feedback on these axles! I've personally driven over 20K so far with no issue, but I intend to do follow up on them if they start to fail me.
To help others, what was the make, model and year of your car?
For some reason I didn’t get notifications from your reply.
I have a 2011 Malibu ltz. I just got back from harbor freight with a 3 way puller.
I heard from mechanic about ruining the joints in the shaft so I’ve tried steering clear of knocking on the spline with a hammer.
Very good video helps alot thanks so much
You're welcome! Good luck with your repair!
Just finished fixing my car, thanks. I will admit, the old hub took me two hours to get off. Lots of hitting and torching.
Not going to lie, editing was my friend. Glad you got it fixed!
Hey there isn't a part of you torquin down the axle nut lol I'm going to change a bearing for a friend of mine. On his 2010 malibu.. I have a wheel hub puller that mounts to the bearing / lug nut splines that you hit with a maul or big ass hammer lol.... I've done 20+ bearings in my life an finally invested in one of these. I live in WI so ever wheel bearing is seized an molded to to the mount. How many pounds of torque for the axle nut. Also awesome video man!!!! The only torque specs you really need to worry about is that axle nut.
Totally missed it when filming somehow, but I pinned a comment with the torque specs, should help you out!
Drive shaft nut: Tighten in three passes: 111 ft/lb; back off 45*; 184 ft/lb.(intructions that came with parts stated 159 ft/lb).
Use the part manufacturer specs.
Many thanks for this video. I’m dealing with this problem with the same model car. You also just saved me a ton with the ACdelco link.
Did u take it apart,reassemble,then film this? Because both of mine needed hub remover with slide hammer with at least 40-50 slides to finally break it loose.It just doesnt seem logical that this came off so easy for you.Either way,thanks for posting.Very useful video.
Actually no, I just edited out A LOT of hammering to help keep the video moving along. Thankfully they came apart!
@@All4HimRacingVideos oh ok lol.it might be a good idea to let people know that so they know what to expect.That way they dont get discouraged.because the video makes it look so quick and easy.I thought maybe there was a hidden cotter key and worried id break something.
@@All4HimRacingVideos by the way,what kind of camera did u use to film this? Im thinking of making a few videos as well
im watching this 100 times over
Hey great job very detailed step by step
Thanks Glen! Hope it helped you out!
So this is something I could do by myself ? That video broke everything down to a tee. My question is though, should order new bolts or just reuse them ? Also is is different in the back ?
Yes the back if different but in my opinion easier because there is no acle shaft. The bolts could be replaced of you want but is typically unnecessary
Very good job thanks again for sharing we are
Good luck with your project!
try this instead... before you remove the brakes... put a thick flat blade screwdriver into a vent slot.. now loosen the axle nut.. once the axle nut is looen.. then remove the brake parts.. and remove the hub.. to tighten the nut.. put the car on the ground
How many mile were on the car before you had to replace?
So i did this quite easily but for some reason it has a grinding sound idk what it is i already took it apart twice
That's nice just simple
Thank you so much you !!!!! And the part in that website is cheaper too thank you
I was told to preload the bearing? I'm not sure what that means. any idea?
does the car automatically recognize the new abs sensor? or is there a relearn process to help the ecu recognize the abs sensor?
Use a torque wrench on the axle nut?? Nice video!! Looks like the same on 1997-2003 Malibus, too!!
Somehow I missed that in the video. They suggest you tighten the axle nut to 159 ft. lbs. (215 Nm).
I was looking for that part too... Understandable now... It's important to torque to the bearing manufacturers specification as it is linked to the pre-load on the bearing...In other words if the factory original states 159 but the bearing manufacturer states 125 ... torque it to 125... Excellent video clearly spoken and good camera angles !
This is the humming noise that gets louder with acceleration? My wife noticed something in her car and that is what I can head . Pretty loud. I changed the tires and it is still there . Quites some when turning right. Im trying to get an idea of what it could be.
Yes! Humming that gets worst with speed, and get get better when turning becuase it transfers the motions sideway. Wheel bearing is a very possible cause
Do you know the torque specs for each of the bolts the bearing hub, and the caliper mount bolts? And also for the 35 mm nut too
Here is what I found. For some reason these values are different all over the web so I recommend you also do your own research. Caliper Mount - 30FT/LBS
Caliper Bracket - 38 - 45FT/LBS
Hub Assm to Steering Knuckle - 80FT/LBS
Axle Nut - 159FT/LBS
Why did you write: Low Cost Bearing Replacement: no longer preferred?
What about service esc it's been to the mechanic can't find the problem gages go Christmas and loss of all gages Trac control off and loss of pwr steering and engine power till it hits 35 mph also the security light or car with lines stays on but the event don't happen all the time I'm thinking a wire short in harness .also I ck the info on the steering wheel said max speed was 29 mph I had my malibu over 40 to go to work it's a mystery any help on this would be appreciated btw it's a 2012 model
Great video!!
Question: The bearing part number you shared belongs to any side of the car? (Left or right)
or should be a different part number for each side?
Been a little while since I worked on this model car but I believe they were universal side to side.
It's a 36mm. A 35mm is to small. Mine is a 2009 Chevy Malibu LTZ
thank you! 10/10...no stress now :)
This is a GREAT video 👍🏿
Would you recommend using anti lock on any of the bolts to prevent vibrations loosening bolts? If so which ones....?
Thread lock is usually fine but I personally dont use it in these parts. Some foreign makes though (such as BMW) do require threadlocker, but that is by design and the only time I used it. Good rule of thumb is only use if the bolt removed had it, otherwise it just makes the next change that much harder.
Very good video.
Best of all
Thank you! Hope it was helpful
@@All4HimRacingVideos very. It shows that this procedure can be completed in 30mn if nothing is stuck on the way. I watched it to do it 2 years ago nd the other bearing starts humming so i needed your refresher course
Awesome! Glad we could help