Put the jaw with the groove on top on the back fixed master jaw. When you put a stop there it''ll be more repeatable than when it is on the front moving master jaw.
I am a huge fan of thin double sided tape. It works with countless work holding applications other than just keeping parallels. I am a big fan of light duty springs for keeping parallels. I have one drawer in my top box, dedicated just for various length springs. Ive been using those since I was a teenager. I really like the banding idea. That is resourceful! There are a few excellent aerosols we use at Boeing that lube/protect steel sufaces. 1) Balistol Multi-Purpose Gun Lube: It is a thicker lube, but a great protectant. So many uses! 2) LPS: Thats your every day lubricant and rust inhibitor. 3)Tri-Flow: This stuff is amazing! In my opinion, I have not used a better lubricant. It puts down a thin layer of PTFE (Teflon) that lubricates and protects like none other. It smells so sweet, very dististinctive. Of course, that is my opinion, but we cannot keep it stocked! Everyone has a stash of that in their box. Im not sure if any of these are what you are talking about, being there is no standard among what is kept in each Dept's flame cabinet, but out of those three, you would be hard pressed to find much better.
@@ViceChief I wish I could share pics. I use several different styles of double sided tape. Tape in my opinion, is such an under rated tool, whether in the home shop, or in an industrial environment, tapes have so many valuable uses. The double-sided tape I use the most, Polyken Double-Sided P/N 105C, is manufactured by Berry Plastics. It is used mostly by Conventions for carpet adhesion, and generally used in Aircraft Manufacturing. On Berry's website, you can see the different kinds, and even request samples. I have been using this tape the whole time Ive spent in a machine shop. I grew up in my Grandfathers machine shop, and cannot, not remember using it. We would use the thick DS tape for general purpose, but the thin, cloth type is great for the work holding of small parts and thin parts. I can grind or mill aluminum or non-ferrous part that are 1/16 or smaller, even at 12 inches long. After using it enough, you learn its flattening characteristics, and can use it while achieving tight tolerance work. Like I said before, this is just my humble opinion. Hope thus works, and I hope it can be used as a topic soon. I see its been a few months since you put out anything new. I watched a few videos, good content! Ill subscribe. There are a few good 'tubers that have left comments here, and I have found a few Im subscribing to. Hope this helps!
I picked up (I am a hobbyist machinist, so no expert) magnetic parallel keepers, can be had on amazon or ebay for little money, set of 4 is like 15 bucks. But as some have said already, having vise jaws with a shoulder pre-machined in is probably the most efficient, albeit less adjustable way.
Has anyone ever measured the fixed jaw deflection on the DX4 / DX6? I can't find any published data on this. There is published data for the higher end vices but not on their entry level vices. Other brands publish this and other information for their vices. FYI, here in New Zealand a DX4 costs about $1,000 and a DX6 about $1,150, an HD690 about $1,300 and VersatileLock about $1,500 after you take the exchange rate and shipping into account.
I have a few tips to add when using a machine vice. Put lower parallels between the ones you are using and the jaws. This creates a channel for chips to fall into, it is far easier to clean them off. Move your finished part side to side before removing from the vice, it automatically cleans the tops of the parallels. I always use springs between parallels, there are several other methods mentioned. I like that they take out any backlash in the vice screw, immediately releasing the part. Always position a stop in the centre of the datum face to eliminate any taper errors. I also use a cordless drill with a socket to open / close my vice quickly. Here are a couple of links that show some of the tips. ua-cam.com/video/TGEJUwJ09tI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/YRbcjwqMcBM/v-deo.html
I just use large rubber bands to hold parallels. Big box of a couple hundred bands. They wear out after about a week due to coolant and oils, but who cares because they're so cheap!
I prefer to eliminate parallels. Too many chances for chips. Use soft jaws and mill a step in both jaws and zero off the fixed. Also drill/tap on side of fixed to mount a stop. This is always the zero. Very repeatable and never a chance of chips under your parallel.
thats what I always do. And nice thing about soft jaws with a milled step is even if your vise is off your milled "parallel" is always true to your machine
Put the jaw with the groove on top on the back fixed master jaw. When you put a stop there it''ll be more repeatable than when it is on the front moving master jaw.
natedawg003 thanks buddy. I have never used the stop before. Actually 99% of the time I keep aluminum jaws installed so I can hold on to round stock.
I use Magkeepers to keep parallels in place
wilkoslavakia I 2nd this. Cheaper, no adjusting needed, and smaller. The obvious downside is the magnets and machine ferrous metals.
Rubber bands here lol
I am a huge fan of thin double sided tape. It works with countless work holding applications other than just keeping parallels. I am a big fan of light duty springs for keeping parallels. I have one drawer in my top box, dedicated just for various length springs. Ive been using those since I was a teenager. I really like the banding idea. That is resourceful!
There are a few excellent aerosols we use at Boeing that lube/protect steel sufaces.
1) Balistol Multi-Purpose Gun Lube: It is a thicker lube, but a great protectant. So many uses!
2) LPS: Thats your every day lubricant and rust inhibitor.
3)Tri-Flow: This stuff is amazing! In my opinion, I have not used a better lubricant. It puts down a thin layer of PTFE (Teflon) that lubricates and protects like none other. It smells so sweet, very dististinctive. Of course, that is my opinion, but we cannot keep it stocked! Everyone has a stash of that in their box. Im not sure if any of these are what you are talking about, being there is no standard among what is kept in each Dept's flame cabinet, but out of those three, you would be hard pressed to find much better.
Hi Chuck, do you have a brand/part number for your favorite double stick tape?
@@ViceChief I wish I could share pics. I use several different styles of double sided tape. Tape in my opinion, is such an under rated tool, whether in the home shop, or in an industrial environment, tapes have so many valuable uses.
The double-sided tape I use the most, Polyken Double-Sided P/N 105C,
is manufactured by Berry Plastics. It is used mostly by Conventions for carpet adhesion, and generally used in Aircraft Manufacturing. On Berry's website, you can see the different kinds, and even request samples.
I have been using this tape the whole time Ive spent in a machine shop. I grew up in my Grandfathers machine shop, and cannot, not remember using it. We would use the thick DS tape for general purpose, but the thin, cloth type is great for the work holding of small parts and thin parts. I can grind or mill aluminum or non-ferrous part that are 1/16 or smaller, even at 12 inches long.
After using it enough, you learn its flattening characteristics, and can use it while achieving tight tolerance work. Like I said before, this is just my humble opinion. Hope thus works, and I hope it can be used as a topic soon. I see its been a few months since you put out anything new. I watched a few videos, good content! Ill subscribe. There are a few good 'tubers that have left comments here, and I have found a few Im subscribing to. Hope this helps!
@@milkyfishh very helpful, thank you very much!
I fill your pain on all that😂 great video and a lot of help. Thanks
You can also keep the parallels in place with thick rubber bands.
Thin bungee cord works even better and lasts longer.
Yep, we use the rubber bands too.. but the coolant eats into them after awhile
@@antman-uc9hh your coworkers will use them as a gun well before then
I picked up (I am a hobbyist machinist, so no expert) magnetic parallel keepers, can be had on amazon or ebay for little money, set of 4 is like 15 bucks. But as some have said already, having vise jaws with a shoulder pre-machined in is probably the most efficient, albeit less adjustable way.
Question: my vise is 7 inches long, but there’s only 6 or 8 inches parallel on the market. Which one should I use?…
Why not Orange vise? I make a choice between Kurt and Orange. How much do the Orange vise lift a part when clamping? Please any information. Thank!
Has anyone ever measured the fixed jaw deflection on the DX4 / DX6? I can't find any published data on this. There is published data for the higher end vices but not on their entry level vices. Other brands publish this and other information for their vices. FYI, here in New Zealand a DX4 costs about $1,000 and a DX6 about $1,150, an HD690 about $1,300 and VersatileLock about $1,500 after you take the exchange rate and shipping into account.
Tôi ở vietnam.Làm sao tôi có thể mua được sản phẩm?
I use rubber hose.
I have a few tips to add when using a machine vice.
Put lower parallels between the ones you are using and the jaws. This creates a channel for chips to fall into, it is far easier to clean them off.
Move your finished part side to side before removing from the vice, it automatically cleans the tops of the parallels.
I always use springs between parallels, there are several other methods mentioned. I like that they take out any backlash in the vice screw, immediately releasing the part.
Always position a stop in the centre of the datum face to eliminate any taper errors.
I also use a cordless drill with a socket to open / close my vice quickly.
Here are a couple of links that show some of the tips.
ua-cam.com/video/TGEJUwJ09tI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/YRbcjwqMcBM/v-deo.html
Where to buy that speed handle?:)
Niklas Karlsson HHIP 3900-2107 Single Quickie Vise Handle www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW770CF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u5.8BbX5Z2JWX
Or just use soft jaws and mill a step in and not have to deal with parallels. For first op stuff, get Mitee Bite Talons or some MMM jaws....
I just use large rubber bands to hold parallels. Big box of a couple hundred bands. They wear out after about a week due to coolant and oils, but who cares because they're so cheap!
Instead of a speed handle I use a drill with a Gator Grip socket. Super fast!
That’s slick. Love the idea. But I’d have to move the bed far away to get drill in there.
I’m dying to find out how find out how the Syil is treating you.
I prefer to eliminate parallels. Too many chances for chips. Use soft jaws and mill a step in both jaws and zero off the fixed. Also drill/tap on side of fixed to mount a stop. This is always the zero. Very repeatable and never a chance of chips under your parallel.
thats what I always do. And nice thing about soft jaws with a milled step is even if your vise is off your milled "parallel" is always true to your machine
Put oil on your parallels and they will not rust and they will stick to your jaws.
That's what I do.
LPS3
2:53 Borderline! you are way past that.
Good tips Jason, but I constantly wanted to stop the vid and yell "Swap the vice jaws, the groove goes at the back!" Guess I am OCD too.
Nick Martin ha ha noted :)
lps3
First ;-)
NIL