The mass hysteria cracks me up. I honestly don't know much of the plumbing codes - that is why I hire a licensed plumber in good standing with the county building department. We have been rounds with the inspectors in the past over small details and everything we do is based on the inspectors interpretation of the code. The inspectors spot check the lines with a level for slope and are generally very happy with this plumbing contractor. Over the years, I've been a part of almost 100 homes that his plumber has helped construct and have had the opportunity to talk with many of the homeowners who have never had any problems. Every State, County, and City is different. We all know that in the end you do what passes inspections, meets budget, and produces a quality product - but that does not look the same on every build. I appreciate all the conversation this has stirred up and hope that overall it is making us all better at what we do. That is the whole point of community collaboration and discussion
Daniel Heap , I want to have a bathroom put into my basement, the house is 10 years old, I'm learning listening to people talk that it is not a simple job. I didn't even know there were pumps involved, I guess I will keep taking breaks and going upstairs and using one of the two bathrooms I already have, plus it sounds pretty pricey, great video.
A couple of comments. Slope on a drain line is very important. 1/4" per foot is ideal when flushing solids. Too little slope and you have sludge building up in your lines. Too much slope and you reduce the drainage capacity of the pipe. This is where your code comes in. If your overall slope exceeds the inside diameter of your pipe, you create a syphon that will suck all the water out of a nearby trap, or make your toilets/sinks gurgle. If you have a 4" ID at 1/4" slope, the max distance you can go without a vent to allow air in is 16'. An 1 1/4" ID is good for 5', a 2" ID is good for 8' etc. I don't have a fancy level like yours, I just tape a 1/2" block of plywood under my 2' level. From the looks of your basement from your main stack to your sump pit, I would say you might be pushing it a bit without an extra vent in that long run.
James Beaty well you drainage leading towards the municipal system doesn't carry a went the sewer injector already carries a vent , that why on the shower line is wrong
Agree not enough air in your system. Also if you consider from your toilet to sump that is your main drain, any Y connected there needs to have the branch higher then main. So 2” needs to be rotated up so it’s drops into main…Y’s are too flat. You wet vent the shower but toilet has no air.
I agree on the slope and vent issues… experience speaks louder than comments on an upload but for sure too much and it sounds like someone is gurgling water… too little and better have the clean out accessible and a snake handy! I tie a vent pipe in all trap areas even if they only vent out of a single stack accept the toilet. Works every time and always aim for 1/4 or just a little more for insurance and haven’t had a problem in 20 yrs
Nice video. I was surprised how much you actually knew about the plumbing. I am a Journeyman Plumber and our Jurisdiction code is based on the UPC. Uniform Plumbing Code. I heard that the IRC code has a lot less venting requirements.
Every state is different, but in my area of Texas this would be against code. Water closet too far from vent and water closet would need 4x3 90 with 4 inch stubbed up. Flanged should be installed after concrete pour. But Ive worked in other states where this would be pass no problems and would work no problems. Plumbers who post on youtube videos need to keep in mind that whats going on in a video might be 100 percent up to code in their area.
That’s what I was going to say. I would think you’d have to vent the toilet directly out of the toilet line and wet vent it with the lav. Then maybe stack the shower or put it separately in a wall. There’s also no trap primer on the floor drain
Thanks. This helps me as I'm adding a bathroom by using an existing room that's on a concrete slab. I know code is a little different everywhere you go. So the basics are what I'm looking for. My local code is 1/8" grade, but 1/4 sounds like a good idea, if I can make it work.
Some people know how to read drawings and elevations, when you grow up you'll be able to read them too, and then you can set your flange before the pour.
Kinton K as a 45 year old remodeler, the finished height of the flange depends on the height of the finished floor, there is variances in thickness of tile thin set, etc. I also like to anchor my flanges in the concrete and tile after the tile is set. Why don’t you read up on how to have “friendly” debates.
I've been in the plumbing/pipefitting business for 43 years. I see 3 corrections there. The 2" should be 3" with a full size clean out. The trap arm for the lavy can only be 3'-6" on 1-1/2" otherwise it has to be 2" at 5'-0". Also the floor drain needs a separate vent. In a basement system you'll need a backwater valve to provent flooding.
*I am thinking to use a 5 inches schedule 80 for underground plumbing under the basement floor. So that I would, hopefully, never have to dig the basement floor to deal with broken or narrow pipes. Cost doesn't bother me. Are there any other drawbacks to this idea?* *We originally had 3 inches iron pipe under the basement floor and had a nightmare with the kitchen drain that clogged it with grease and all under the basement floor. I don't wanna deal with it again.*
here in louisiana you can vent a toilet with 2", but when you introduce a shower, lavatory, or floor drain you have to run a 3" vent. the floor drain definitely needs a vent added, as well as a mechanical trap primer. your allowed to make a change of direction with a 45 but your second 45 should have been a wye with a cleanout out the back. we follow a different code than the yankee states. hopefully your plumbing works. its been two years...any problems?
Thanks for this video it answer an outstanding question I had about my rough ins for a bathroom in my basement. I thought I had to break up the concrete to add a drain for the sink vanity, you explained it at around 2:19. My rough in has the 3 same pipes coming up through the concrete. Thanks.
In Kentucky this would be completely wrong, as Kentucky follows it's own plumbing code rather than international code, and is generally considered the strictest state in terms of plumbing code. Here, you have to have an independent vent for each fixture, and no wet vents or flat venting under fixture level rim is allowed at all. Also each fixture had a set trap branch length and fixture unit. (so a shower is considered 1 1/2 fixture unit with a trap size of 1 1/2 minimal, and can only be 3 foot 6 inches of linear pipe between the trap and the vent because a fixture has to hit a vent before it hits a drain.).Also the means of putting pipe underground or under a slab is much stricter (so All the plumbing underground has to be fortified with gravel, so you have to pour gravel all the way around the pipe to stop settling.That doesn't include if you run a pipe under a drive way, in which, it must be concreted around the pipe or it must be cast iron) It's much stricter for plumbers in Kentucky. We have to use much more pipe and fitting than other states, and therefore much more work.
Ten foot of head pressure on all waste and vent piping. Under ground, release air gaps and us gem caps. Should hold all day but 15 minutes is code in my area.,or until the inspection is done
That is a horizontal wet vent system. See it all the time in Oregon. For this system, everything looks ok except for the lav trap arm...sounds too far away. What about a primer valve for the floor drain? Not sure if the floor drain needs a vent and not sure if an ejector pump system needs a back water valve.
New home basement rough ins for tube, sink and toilet is venting not needed? I don't have a vent rough in. Is it not needed being these rough ins are last in the system with a low level drain to septic system?
How far away is your longest run?? Did you have to measure down from the footer to get how far down the injectore pit has to go down?? In other words if the run is 40 feet, the top of your pipe at the injector pit has to be 10 inches down from footer?. Are you bushing down 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee for your lav and run 1 1/2 vent to tie into your vent going out the house???
In NC all houses used to have a 4" main vent, which is ridiculous. Now we only have to have one 2" vent and the rest of the house can be on studor vents
Steven King Exactly! Back in the 50s in the southeast a one bath house had a 4" cast iron vent on the bathroom. Now you see 2 1/2 bath houses with washer box on a 2" vent.
See!!? This is exactly what I spoke of. Most of the items mentioned here dance around the UPC. But each municipal contingent has their own idiosyncrasies they feel need updating at further attention. Remember, the code is nothing more than industry MINIMUMS... Some jurisdictions address things further. They are the people you need to make happy. Not these blow hard plumbers prowling UA-cam dispensing their worthless knowledge.
1. Cleanout required every 40ft if there is more than a 45degree change? 2. Size of vents? 3. Cleanouts at branches over 5ft of main sewer? 4. Long sweeps not hard 45s? 5. Minimum cover? I dig the efforts.
Erick Becerril I'm honestly not sure on the details about vents and lengths and minimum cover. That is whey I hire a licensed plumber in the area and have the job inspected. this is all flowing to an ejector pit in the basement that pumps to the private septic system.
that is a wet vent system although the center line of the 3by 2 wye is a bit far from the toilet here In Fla 5 ft from CL of toilet to CL of wye it's vented. and will work just fine for all 3 fixtures
It's a huge problem with the shower drain joining the toilet drain horizontally, a portion of toilet waste will overflow into the shower drain. While I'm plumbing my house, I opted to have the shower drain coming into waste drain from above. I don't live in US, so I'm glad not bounding by your country's code
this is a horizontal wet vent for a bathroom group which I s legal, one thing I noticed is the 3x2 wye is incorrect, should be 3 inch wye and 3 inch pipe to headed tword the shower and use a 3x2 wye to catch the vent pipe and a 3x2 bushing to catch the shower drain
its not a horizontal wet vent. the vertical 2" is a vent only which makes this all wrong. If a lav was pouring into the vertical 2" it would be better.
They allow a vent horizontal below the slab/flood level? And 2" at that. What code is this? Big mistake putting the flanges on now. That's 1/4" per foot. No more, no less. Oh boy! You're in for a treat with an injector pump inside the building! Where's the protection(foam wrap) around all pipes going through concrete? PVC doesn't expand and contract? What's with the vanity drain. Where I come from.. maximum 42" from centerline of vent to weir of trap on 1 1/2" drain. This system is dumping 3 f.u.'s into a 2" vent for a toilet? Ah...no. While I'm at it,. What kind of 1/4 bend is that for the toilet? Not a vent ell is it? Sooo many questions!
They way the plumbers roughed it out is very wrong and illegal here in Texas. Vent should be 3" and has to be above the plumbing fixtures thats considered a low vent
1. THIS WAY IS ILLEGAL IN NEW MEXICO. 2. THE PIPE WAS NOT LABELLED AS PRESSURE PIPE. MOST PIPE I RUN IS NOT FOR PRESSURE SO YOU CAN NO PUT IT ON AIR TEST. HAS TO BE WATER TESTED.
That is a horizontal wet vent system. It's funky as shit and I don't really like it but I've done it on multistory buildings. It. Ugh me every time I see it but we're all just used to conventional plumbing. Technically it's right though. As for traditional plumbing, technically the shower is fine. If your trap arm is twice the size as required then you don't need a vent (which technically I think it needs a 4" arm and trap)🤔. 2% required on all pipe less than 4" though and it's not permitted to test plastic pipe with air.
This ground-work,should be laid on a bed of gravel,and not on the dirt! if the ground gets wet below the concrete-slab it could sink causing the piping to sag and clog up over time,there should be at least 3-inches of gravel below the ground work plumbing
That's why people don't hire license plumber anymore because of this type of videos people think it easy and tried to do themselves but when the inspector inspect the job it have to be redone
Good video but I would add that your measurements are "to center", for instance your closet, the 12in should be "to center" not just "12 inches from the finished wall" because some people might take that as the edge closest to the wall should be 12 inches and then you would be off when do your top out. I'm learning to be a plumber also so I don't know everything but I do know that.
vent cannot be ran flat or dry, the venting is illegal, and the floor drain must have a vent within 16 feet on 3" which i don't see that either, 3" pipe 1/8" per foot grade is required, anything below 3" is 1/4" per foot anything above 6" is 1/16" per foot
You need to roll those fittings for proper venting. F/D not vented why??? its not 3" F/D off a 4" pipe that terminates to open air. And installing w/c flange now is not a good ideal
Missouri my area has no code , I have owned 2 homes , the last home I redid the plumbing 2001 in and out to the septic , no vets the only vent was from the laundry room drain pipe 1-1/2 for the washer, kitchen and bath room, 3 sinks tub shower toilet all off the 1 vent 50 foot away i could smell crap in the laundry room , the septic had 1 lateral 100 foot long . House 2 . has" 2 AAV vents" on the 4 inch main #1 is at the footing on a 2 inch vent pipe with a T off the 4" main only 2 inch long . #2 five foot behind the toilet from kitchen 2 inch line tied into the main with a stack of reducers 2"to 4" , kitchen sink not vented at all not even a aav vent sink vapor locks and they had a dishwasher hooked up , under the sink 2 P traps and between them a pipe cut 3 inch short with a no hub band not even enough to tie the ends in. I had my Journeyman in plumbing 20 years ago in Michigan so I still plum to codes that are from 1987 to 2001 . I have seen garden hose hooked up to hot water tank run to a kitchen 100 foot behind walls . and you all are saying his is bad lmao im redoing this house looking up new codes see how much stuff has changed in 20 years. The Hardware is so far behind the times they still have stuff from 1952 on the shelfs , when you ask for something they have to order it . home depot is 100 miles away . they do not carry any Y at all they only have T to get a 90 you have to tie to 45 together they never seen it done they just use a 90 on 4 inch main ask for a long 90 they look at you like your dumb .
I don't know how the heck I got here, and I know this video is 4 years old now, but I don't like the job this plumber did at all. I read some of the comments from my peers, and I agree with them, it's just weird to see how others do Plumbing across the country.
Old video but this is correct plumbing in Michigan. Master plumber myself and I understand codes vary geographically and I've done this 100's of times I'm sure it works 100% I've plumbed in Kentucky and this wouldn't pass inspection. The codes their are insanely overkill!
Same in Texas. That would get a redtag (code rejection) here. Water closet too far from vent and water closet would need 4x3 90 with 4 inch stubbed up. Flanged should be installed after concrete pour.
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All these know it all prima donnas drive me crazy... None of them bother to ask where you are geographically or what code is enforced in your area. I am a master plumber with 20 years in the trade. And no, his is not code correct via UPC guidelines. Find out the particulars of your area code wise and make sure your inspectors are adhering to these guidelines...
***** Thanks Jeff. I've talked to a few plumbers in my area about a couple of these issues and they have all told me that the 3 jurisdictions we work in do not require gravel bedding due to the natural soil conditions. I can't speak for the exact plumbing layout but I do know that I've been involved with over 60 houses plumbed by this company in this area over the last 10 years. I'm no plumber but I know they are passing inspections on a regular basis.
Wolverine Scorpion Sir I wish I had a better answer for you. I live in Montana. In a 20 mile radius a from where I am now I personally know of places you can find good sources of water no more than 20 feet below the ground. I the SAME geographical are people are needing to drill down 900 feet plus finding a marginal source at best. And at a cost of $30 a foot that is daunting I know. There is no way to answer what you ask. My advice is two fold... 1... Go talk to people who have drilled and found water in as close proximity to your property as possible. Talk to as many of them as you can. Simply ask them how far down did they need to go to find water. Is it good water?? 2... Contact the drilling contractors who do this specialized work and see if they have any information about the area you are wanting to drill. They might very well have worked in your area and might have some insight. I wish I had more solid information for you. Drilling for water is a crap shoot. You could be in an area where you could dig down with a shovel and hit water. Or you could be looking at hundreds of feet of shale rock to bore through before find an ounce of water. I hope I have helped a little. Let me know how you make out. Good luck...
In the US all houses are cheap stick-frame box with carpet because permit and engineer cost 20k to 30k and plumbers charge like dentists. Anal retentiveness add nothing to the house.
The mass hysteria cracks me up. I honestly don't know much of the plumbing codes - that is why I hire a licensed plumber in good standing with the county building department. We have been rounds with the inspectors in the past over small details and everything we do is based on the inspectors interpretation of the code. The inspectors spot check the lines with a level for slope and are generally very happy with this plumbing contractor. Over the years, I've been a part of almost 100 homes that his plumber has helped construct and have had the opportunity to talk with many of the homeowners who have never had any problems. Every State, County, and City is different. We all know that in the end you do what passes inspections, meets budget, and produces a quality product - but that does not look the same on every build.
I appreciate all the conversation this has stirred up and hope that overall it is making us all better at what we do. That is the whole point of community collaboration and discussion
Daniel Heap , I want to have a bathroom put into my basement, the house is 10 years old, I'm learning listening to people talk that it is not a simple job. I didn't even know there were pumps involved, I guess I will keep taking breaks and going upstairs and using one of the two bathrooms I already have, plus it sounds pretty pricey, great video.
Is supostube a 1/8 pitch on 3" and 1/4 on 2" pipe!
all of the crocks r 'connected'... Not to do job but to rob u of your money.
richard ortiz
That's at minimum, you can have a greater pitch, like 3/8" Which is much BETTER
In my area (Central New York) a home owner can pull out ANY permit on a single family dwelling. No matter how large that residential building may be.
most definately helpful. having never seen a real layout, it simplifies it so much vs diagrams.
A couple of comments. Slope on a drain line is very important. 1/4" per foot is ideal when flushing solids. Too little slope and you have sludge building up in your lines. Too much slope and you reduce the drainage capacity of the pipe. This is where your code comes in. If your overall slope exceeds the inside diameter of your pipe, you create a syphon that will suck all the water out of a nearby trap, or make your toilets/sinks gurgle. If you have a 4" ID at 1/4" slope, the max distance you can go without a vent to allow air in is 16'. An 1 1/4" ID is good for 5', a 2" ID is good for 8' etc. I don't have a fancy level like yours, I just tape a 1/2" block of plywood under my 2' level. From the looks of your basement from your main stack to your sump pit, I would say you might be pushing it a bit without an extra vent in that long run.
you do not even know what your talking about not even close
James Beaty well you drainage leading towards the municipal system doesn't carry a went the sewer injector already carries a vent , that why on the shower line is wrong
Agree not enough air in your system. Also if you consider from your toilet to sump that is your main drain, any Y connected there needs to have the branch higher then main. So 2” needs to be rotated up so it’s drops into main…Y’s are too flat. You wet vent the shower but toilet has no air.
I agree on the slope and vent issues… experience speaks louder than comments on an upload but for sure too much and it sounds like someone is gurgling water… too little and better have the clean out accessible and a snake handy! I tie a vent pipe in all trap areas even if they only vent out of a single stack accept the toilet. Works every time and always aim for 1/4 or just a little more for insurance and haven’t had a problem in 20 yrs
It's 1/8" per foot by code.. 1/4" per foot on 2" pipe and below
I’m no pro plumber but what about back filling with pea gravel instead of dirt ?
Nice video. I was surprised how much you actually knew about the plumbing. I am a Journeyman Plumber and our Jurisdiction code is based on the UPC. Uniform Plumbing Code. I heard that the IRC code has a lot less venting requirements.
Thank you Daniel, very helpful to make the real things in the field accessible and intelligently explained.
Every state is different, but in my area of Texas this would be against code. Water
closet too far from vent and water closet would need 4x3 90 with 4 inch
stubbed up. Flanged should be installed after concrete pour. But Ive worked in other states where this would be pass no problems and would work no problems. Plumbers who post on youtube videos need to keep in mind that whats going on in a video might be 100 percent up to code in their area.
That’s what I was going to say. I would think you’d have to vent the toilet directly out of the toilet line and wet vent it with the lav. Then maybe stack the shower or put it separately in a wall. There’s also no trap primer on the floor drain
Excellent thanks for the upload
Thanks. This helps me as I'm adding a bathroom by using an existing room that's on a concrete slab. I know code is a little different everywhere you go. So the basics are what I'm looking for. My local code is 1/8" grade, but 1/4 sounds like a good idea, if I can make it work.
Why is there a toilet flange glued on already, would have stubbed up my 4" with a cap and cut it off later after cement.
woohunter1 state code says you can pull vent to 12 ‘ away from toilet trap
woohunter1 he used it as a cap 😂
woohunter1 Late to the party but yeah, you stub up and add your flange after the floor is complete.
Some people know how to read drawings and elevations, when you grow up you'll be able to read them too, and then you can set your flange before the pour.
Kinton K as a 45 year old remodeler, the finished height of the flange depends on the height of the finished floor, there is variances in thickness of tile thin set, etc. I also like to anchor my flanges in the concrete and tile after the tile is set. Why don’t you read up on how to have “friendly” debates.
I've been in the plumbing/pipefitting business for 43 years. I see 3 corrections there. The 2" should be 3" with a full size clean out. The trap arm for the lavy can only be 3'-6" on 1-1/2" otherwise it has to be 2" at 5'-0". Also the floor drain needs a separate vent. In a basement system you'll need a backwater valve to provent flooding.
Emergency floor drains don't need a separate vent and you can go 6' on 1 1/2
@@Danfromthenorth84
Some codes maybe but not in the UPC. The UPC is the only code I know.
*I am thinking to use a 5 inches schedule 80 for underground plumbing under the basement floor. So that I would, hopefully, never have to dig the basement floor to deal with broken or narrow pipes. Cost doesn't bother me. Are there any other drawbacks to this idea?*
*We originally had 3 inches iron pipe under the basement floor and had a nightmare with the kitchen drain that clogged it with grease and all under the basement floor. I don't wanna deal with it again.*
use a vibratory compactor, NOT a jumping jack! Unless you want to bust your plumbing connections
Awesome job!
wow, an objector pit sounds like a good idea! never heard of one before you mentioned it hear Daniel.
Ejector....
here in louisiana you can vent a toilet with 2", but when you introduce a shower, lavatory, or floor drain you have to run a 3" vent. the floor drain definitely needs a vent added, as well as a mechanical trap primer. your allowed to make a change of direction with a 45 but your second 45 should have been a wye with a cleanout out the back. we follow a different code than the yankee states. hopefully your plumbing works. its been two years...any problems?
Thanks for this video it answer an outstanding question I had about my rough ins for a bathroom in my basement. I thought I had to break up the concrete to add a drain for the sink vanity, you explained it at around 2:19. My rough in has the 3 same pipes coming up through the concrete. Thanks.
In Kentucky this would be completely wrong, as Kentucky follows it's own plumbing code rather than international code, and is generally considered the strictest state in terms of plumbing code. Here, you have to have an independent vent for each fixture, and no wet vents or flat venting under fixture level rim is allowed at all. Also each fixture had a set trap branch length and fixture unit. (so a shower is considered 1 1/2 fixture unit with a trap size of 1 1/2 minimal, and can only be 3 foot 6 inches of linear pipe between the trap and the vent because a fixture has to hit a vent before it hits a drain.).Also the means of putting pipe underground or under a slab is much stricter (so All the plumbing underground has to be fortified with gravel, so you have to pour gravel all the way around the pipe to stop settling.That doesn't include if you run a pipe under a drive way, in which, it must be concreted around the pipe or it must be cast iron) It's much stricter for plumbers in Kentucky. We have to use much more pipe and fitting than other states, and therefore much more work.
flowable fill for any pipe conduit included. ;) under road or driveway
Ten foot of head pressure on all waste and vent piping. Under ground, release air gaps and us gem caps. Should hold all day but 15 minutes is code in my area.,or until the inspection is done
How come you did not put that 3x3x2 wye so much closer to that 90° off the w.c. you could have saved on so much pipe material?
I am a self employed plumber with 32 years experience. I still HATE doing Slab work!!! Nothing to measure off 😒😒
Great video
Important question why isnt the toilet vented?
That is a horizontal wet vent system. See it all the time in Oregon. For this system, everything looks ok except for the lav trap arm...sounds too far away. What about a primer valve for the floor drain? Not sure if the floor drain needs a vent and not sure if an ejector pump system needs a back water valve.
Thanks so much for your video.
New home basement rough ins for tube, sink and toilet is venting not needed? I don't have a vent rough in. Is it not needed being these rough ins are last in the system with a low level drain to septic system?
How far away is your longest run?? Did you have to measure down from the footer to get how far down the injectore pit has to go down?? In other words if the run is 40 feet, the top of your pipe at the injector pit has to be 10 inches down from footer?. Are you bushing down 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee for your lav and run 1 1/2 vent to tie into your vent going out the house???
Here in Houston testing pvc with air is a MAJOR NONO!!
I thought that every individual fixture has to have its own vent? Another thing, why isn’t that vent rolled on a 45? Again, I’m just asking
Hi.Good work.And why 2 bars?A little bit of this?We have a sewer pipe not tested.
nice job, one question
If you have a drain and trap under the water heater in case it fails the p trap is dry. Wont sewer gas come up in to the room?
just fill it up no problem
My question? If install new fitting ppr water line bathroom ..how much pressuer .do u require to cheak leakge ...???? How much( psi or baar)
So simple to understand, thanks.
where is the cleanout? if it is clugged up,
Thank you good information may God and Jesus bless you
In NC all houses used to have a 4" main vent, which is ridiculous. Now we only have to have one 2" vent and the rest of the house can be on studor vents
Steven King studor vents?? hacks!!
Possibly the plumbing inspectors know about HOARFROST and know 4" vent will not suffer from this condition
Steven King Exactly! Back in the 50s in the southeast a one bath house had a 4" cast iron vent on the bathroom. Now you see 2 1/2 bath houses with washer box on a 2" vent.
Very helpful, thank you.
Nice work. new sub Where is the cleanout
Vert Nice work
How to vent in kitchen waste sink? Independent or together bathroom?
This video is awesome. Thanks for sharing.
See!!? This is exactly what I spoke of. Most of the items mentioned here dance around the UPC. But each municipal contingent has their own idiosyncrasies they feel need updating at further attention. Remember, the code is nothing more than industry MINIMUMS... Some jurisdictions address things further. They are the people you need to make happy. Not these blow hard plumbers prowling UA-cam dispensing their worthless knowledge.
Jeff Legg a lot of these licensed journeyman plumbers don't know their ass from a hole in the wall
Both of you are correct!
1. Cleanout required every 40ft if there is more than a 45degree change?
2. Size of vents?
3. Cleanouts at branches over 5ft of main sewer?
4. Long sweeps not hard 45s?
5. Minimum cover?
I dig the efforts.
Erick Becerril I'm honestly not sure on the details about vents and lengths and minimum cover. That is whey I hire a licensed plumber in the area and have the job inspected. this is all flowing to an ejector pit in the basement that pumps to the private septic system.
I guess the floor drain doesn’t need a vent? Or the toilet?
Where are the vents ?
i didnt notice a clean out either
Can anyone share their professional opinion, is it wise idea to build a basement in a sandy area?
Nice size bathroom.
Success in work.
Very good
nice awesome idea
Why is there no gravel in the basement and no sump and sump pmp. to control the basement water.
that is a wet vent system although the center line of the 3by 2 wye is a bit far from the toilet here In Fla 5 ft from CL of toilet to CL of wye it's vented. and will work just fine for all 3 fixtures
Glenn Manchester i belive it is 6 foot
Its not a wet vent. He said in the video that the vertical 2" pipe is a vent only.
It's a huge problem with the shower drain joining the toilet drain horizontally, a portion of toilet waste will overflow into the shower drain. While I'm plumbing my house, I opted to have the shower drain coming into waste drain from above. I don't live in US, so I'm glad not bounding by your country's code
That is a good idea
Vents need to roll up with 22 1/2 min & no vent on floor drain
this is a horizontal wet vent for a bathroom group which I s legal, one thing I noticed is the 3x2 wye is incorrect, should be 3 inch wye and 3 inch pipe to headed tword the shower and use a 3x2 wye to catch the vent pipe and a 3x2 bushing to catch the shower drain
its not a horizontal wet vent. the vertical 2" is a vent only which makes this all wrong. If a lav was pouring into the vertical 2" it would be better.
Water closets are trapped but you can either closet 90 or long sweep 90 hope the sewer gas isn’t to bad inside your home
thanks Daniel
what is the best easy way to make a house
Why doesn't the floor drain have a vent?
Really helpful. Thanks!
They allow a vent horizontal below the slab/flood level? And 2" at that. What code is this? Big mistake putting the flanges on now. That's 1/4" per foot. No more, no less. Oh boy! You're in for a treat with an injector pump inside the building! Where's the protection(foam wrap) around all pipes going through concrete? PVC doesn't expand and contract? What's with the vanity drain. Where I come from.. maximum 42" from centerline of vent to weir of trap on 1 1/2" drain. This system is dumping 3 f.u.'s into a 2" vent for a toilet? Ah...no. While I'm at it,. What kind of 1/4 bend is that for the toilet? Not a vent ell is it? Sooo many questions!
They way the plumbers roughed it out is very wrong and illegal here in Texas. Vent should be 3" and has to be above the plumbing fixtures thats considered a low vent
here in Nevada UPC, I'd wet vent the toilet with the sink, but even then still looks to far.
1. THIS WAY IS ILLEGAL IN NEW MEXICO. 2. THE PIPE WAS NOT LABELLED AS PRESSURE PIPE. MOST PIPE I RUN IS NOT FOR PRESSURE SO YOU CAN NO PUT IT ON AIR TEST. HAS TO BE WATER TESTED.
thank you, nice video.
That is a horizontal wet vent system. It's funky as shit and I don't really like it but I've done it on multistory buildings. It. Ugh me every time I see it but we're all just used to conventional plumbing. Technically it's right though. As for traditional plumbing, technically the shower is fine. If your trap arm is twice the size as required then you don't need a vent (which technically I think it needs a 4" arm and trap)🤔. 2% required on all pipe less than 4" though and it's not permitted to test plastic pipe with air.
Now that I think about it though that vent is supposed to be larger. And have a clean out on it. So it is wrong. The concept is legal but.
How do you know how deep to dig your trench
This ground-work,should be laid on a bed of gravel,and not on the dirt! if the ground gets wet below the concrete-slab it could sink causing the piping to sag and clog up over time,there should be at least 3-inches of gravel below the ground work plumbing
Thanks for the info
That's why people don't hire license plumber anymore because of this type of videos people think it easy and tried to do themselves but when the inspector inspect the job it have to be redone
Or the inspector pass it because he or she doesn't know what there talking about ether lol
its supposed to be an eighth inch of fall for 3 and 4 inch pipe and a quarter inch of fall for 2 inch and 1 and a half pipe..
Pvc test with air? 🤔
It's in the code
Thanks
Toilet is no vented and the vent for the shower need to be put on a 45 degree minimum
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Good video but I would add that your measurements are "to center", for instance your closet, the 12in should be "to center" not just "12 inches from the finished wall" because some people might take that as the edge closest to the wall should be 12 inches and then you would be off when do your top out. I'm learning to be a plumber also so I don't know everything but I do know that.
A handy Andy will think like that.
vent cannot be ran flat or dry, the venting is illegal, and the floor drain must have a vent within 16 feet on 3" which i don't see that either, 3" pipe 1/8" per foot grade is required, anything below 3" is 1/4" per foot anything above 6" is 1/16" per foot
if that were a wet vent tying into a lavatory it would be legal, but you just said vent, but im assuming thats for a vanity
You need to roll those fittings for proper venting. F/D not vented why??? its not 3" F/D off a 4" pipe that terminates to open air. And installing w/c flange now is not a good ideal
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Missouri my area has no code , I have owned 2 homes , the last home I redid the plumbing 2001 in and out to the septic , no vets the only vent was from the laundry room drain pipe 1-1/2 for the washer, kitchen and bath room, 3 sinks tub shower toilet all off the 1 vent 50 foot away i could smell crap in the laundry room , the septic had 1 lateral 100 foot long . House 2 . has" 2 AAV vents" on the 4 inch main #1 is at the footing on a 2 inch vent pipe with a T off the 4" main only 2 inch long . #2 five foot behind the toilet from kitchen 2 inch line tied into the main with a stack of reducers 2"to 4" , kitchen sink not vented at all not even a aav vent sink vapor locks and they had a dishwasher hooked up , under the sink 2 P traps and between them a pipe cut 3 inch short with a no hub band not even enough to tie the ends in. I had my Journeyman in plumbing 20 years ago in Michigan so I still plum to codes that are from 1987 to 2001 . I have seen garden hose hooked up to hot water tank run to a kitchen 100 foot behind walls . and you all are saying his is bad lmao im redoing this house looking up new codes see how much stuff has changed in 20 years. The Hardware is so far behind the times they still have stuff from 1952 on the shelfs , when you ask for something they have to order it . home depot is 100 miles away . they do not carry any Y at all they only have T to get a 90 you have to tie to 45 together they never seen it done they just use a 90 on 4 inch main ask for a long 90 they look at you like your dumb .
I don't know how the heck I got here, and I know this video is 4 years old now, but I don't like the job this plumber did at all. I read some of the comments from my peers, and I agree with them, it's just weird to see how others do Plumbing across the country.
Not sure how I'd feel about pressurized shit pumped through the floor joists.
In Texas you have to roll that vent on a 45 and a sweep for the toilet!! Also, every fixture has to have its own vent!!
here in canada, that flat vent is not allowed unless is a wet vent, big no, no
Te faltaron muchos repiraderos y mas importanta el del toile
nice! thank you.
Old video but this is correct plumbing in Michigan. Master plumber myself and I understand codes vary geographically and I've done this 100's of times I'm sure it works 100% I've plumbed in Kentucky and this wouldn't pass inspection. The codes their are insanely overkill!
Same in Texas. That would get a redtag (code rejection) here. Water closet too far from vent and water closet would need 4x3 90 with 4 inch stubbed up. Flanged should be installed after concrete pour.
In AZ its not even close to a green tag haha
James Hudson i live in south Florida we used to be under the south Florida building code but now we are under the national code
Raymond Allen UPC or national code book ..all the same . That shitter is not vented correctly .. End of story
Sure am glad I live where there are no inspections of residential plumbing...if it works it is OK
Nothing is vented except the lav at this point...bad layout as well, why drain all the way across the house just to pump it all they way back again?
No cleanouts?
Man that looks so simple but it will never pass inspection in California.
no Cleanout?
you have to put concrete under under the p traps and those bent coming up
your vent connection it way too far from the toilet flange......
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Minimum. 4. Feet. He. Is not. A plumber.
Toilet u idiot self priming trap can 8 feet if not more.
Floor drain needs to vent also
this is typical in NC, minus the floor cleanouts. I would think of at least 2 being required in that long run.
All these know it all prima donnas drive me crazy... None of them bother to ask where you are geographically or what code is enforced in your area. I am a master plumber with 20 years in the trade. And no, his is not code correct via UPC guidelines. Find out the particulars of your area code wise and make sure your inspectors are adhering to these guidelines...
***** Thanks Jeff. I've talked to a few plumbers in my area about a couple of these issues and they have all told me that the 3 jurisdictions we work in do not require gravel bedding due to the natural soil conditions. I can't speak for the exact plumbing layout but I do know that I've been involved with over 60 houses plumbed by this company in this area over the last 10 years. I'm no plumber but I know they are passing inspections on a regular basis.
Wolverine Scorpion Sir I wish I had a better answer for you. I live in Montana. In a 20 mile radius a from where I am now I personally know of places you can find good sources of water no more than 20 feet below the ground. I the SAME geographical are people are needing to drill down 900 feet plus finding a marginal source at best. And at a cost of $30 a foot that is daunting I know. There is no way to answer what you ask. My advice is two fold...
1... Go talk to people who have drilled and found water in as close proximity to your property as possible. Talk to as many of them as you can. Simply ask them how far down did they need to go to find water. Is it good water??
2... Contact the drilling contractors who do this specialized work and see if they have any information about the area you are wanting to drill. They might very well have worked in your area and might have some insight.
I wish I had more solid information for you. Drilling for water is a crap shoot. You could be in an area where you could dig down with a shovel and hit water. Or you could be looking at hundreds of feet of shale rock to bore through before find an ounce of water. I hope I have helped a little. Let me know how you make out. Good luck...
Would not pass inspection in Los Angeles.
thank you for the video, it is exactly what I'm trying to do. one question....the pump are you putting concrete over it?
Exactly. Licensed plumbers get on youtube and trash other plumbers even though what they're doing is to code in their area.
In the US all houses are cheap stick-frame box with carpet because permit and engineer cost 20k to 30k and plumbers charge like dentists. Anal retentiveness add nothing to the house.
That's right. Inspectors are crooks and overpriced, and it's the builder that makes all the money, he has you by the balls before you bid the house.
Plz send under ground pipes lekage,in,pipes coaching
Your codes are so different then around here
Wash sink drain?