We need to figure out what's wrong with the engine, so we can figure out if it's repair or replace. Time to get the head off and have a look what's going on.
I could probably fill a 2 sides of an A4 sheet of paper with my 'thoughts' but at the end of the day you are a professional mechanic who has a pretty good idea what you are looking at so I will try not to patronise or advise. The thing that really strikes me about these engines is how long and narrow they seem. If like me you'd spent a good part of your life knocking big lumps out of blocks and bars of metal with heavy cutting equipment you be all too aware of metal distortion on progressively 'narrowing parts' caused by extreme force and temperature changes. I'd be willing to bet that under inspection that head is not unlike a banana which might go some way to explaining a snapped camshaft.. As for the oil restrictor valve I too would probably go along with eliminating it altogether at the rebuild.. but there is a 'nagging myth' that this can cause significantly low oil pressure in the bottom end and thus big end / main bearing wear.?! However.. With such a narrow oil way (looks about 7mm diameter) Id be willing to bet that any extra bottom end wear would be pretty negligible.. The machine tools I use at work are far too heavy, old fashioned and basically 'dogged' for fairly delicate aluminium skimming.. but if you could get access to a half decent Bridgeport (or something of the like) milling machine I'd be quite happy to help you with some machining. For things like crank grinding and and line boring you obviously need access and training on some pretty dedicated equipment but you'd be amazed what you can actually achieve yourself with a good light duty lathe & milling machine.! Your timing of this 2600 endeavour couldn't have been better from my point of view. The Notts. guy who's doing the grinding and boring on my spare engine block & parts is frighteningly well respected by locals in the know and between my part of Nott's & your part of Derby's. We could practically have our own 2600 cottage industry.!
use a straight edge and a feeler gauge around the area where the oil return is where the gasket blew mine warped there on the head and block good job that six is a good engine once sorted good luck
@@Classic_and_Retro either, though longer is better. Those red dot laser pens also work against the straight edge get it right up close lights off block any difussing of light and lights of and check for escape light simple. Head and the block same places. If it's all warped you can fix with chemical metal molten led hard resin mix, use a smaller or high mileage coil to weaken the spark to keep the temperature low and use no thermostat repaired head's need to run lower temp slightly, I made mine do 60 k miles then it does it again. Skim expensive for repair and must stress stretch bolts must be new on rebuild, otherwise it'll blow again really quick.
I am of a simiar opinion - i'd have a skim but nothing else - pulling the engine for it to be decked is too much. Problem is finding a 2.6 motor without issues?
@@Classic_and_Retro Yes Annables are good for parts, they've got several SD1 breaker cars. Across from them in the mill yard is also Nelson Auto Electrical, Richard I believe still has the proper BL/AR diagnostic computer equipment. I'd also recommend Manx engines on Alfreton Rd, they're also very familiar with old British engines. Did my TD5 head for me.
Going to watch with interest. 6 cylinder SD1's are very rare now.
I could probably fill a 2 sides of an A4 sheet of paper with my 'thoughts' but at the end of the day you are a professional mechanic who has a pretty good idea what you are looking at so I will try not to patronise or advise. The thing that really strikes me about these engines is how long and narrow they seem. If like me you'd spent a good part of your life knocking big lumps out of blocks and bars of metal with heavy cutting equipment you be all too aware of metal distortion on progressively 'narrowing parts' caused by extreme force and temperature changes. I'd be willing to bet that under inspection that head is not unlike a banana which might go some way to explaining a snapped camshaft.. As for the oil restrictor valve I too would probably go along with eliminating it altogether at the rebuild.. but there is a 'nagging myth' that this can cause significantly low oil pressure in the bottom end and thus big end / main bearing wear.?! However.. With such a narrow oil way (looks about 7mm diameter) Id be willing to bet that any extra bottom end wear would be pretty negligible..
The machine tools I use at work are far too heavy, old fashioned and basically 'dogged' for fairly delicate aluminium skimming.. but if you could get access to a half decent Bridgeport (or something of the like) milling machine I'd be quite happy to help you with some machining. For things like crank grinding and and line boring you obviously need access and training on some pretty dedicated equipment but you'd be amazed what you can actually achieve yourself with a good light duty lathe & milling machine.!
Your timing of this 2600 endeavour couldn't have been better from my point of view. The Notts. guy who's doing the grinding and boring on my spare engine block & parts is frighteningly well respected by locals in the know and between my part of Nott's & your part of Derby's. We could practically have our own 2600 cottage industry.!
I think its good to go again ive done a fair few of these six cylinder engines and seen worse..
Oh and try and get a payen head gasket set
@@Classic_and_Retro V8 👍
use a straight edge and a feeler gauge around the area where the oil return is where the gasket blew mine warped there on the head and block good job that six is a good engine once sorted good luck
@@Classic_and_Retro either, though longer is better. Those red dot laser pens also work against the straight edge get it right up close lights off block any difussing of light and lights of and check for escape light simple. Head and the block same places. If it's all warped you can fix with chemical metal molten led hard resin mix, use a smaller or high mileage coil to weaken the spark to keep the temperature low and use no thermostat repaired head's need to run lower temp slightly, I made mine do 60 k miles then it does it again. Skim expensive for repair and must stress stretch bolts must be new on rebuild, otherwise it'll blow again really quick.
I am of a simiar opinion - i'd have a skim but nothing else - pulling the engine for it to be decked is too much. Problem is finding a 2.6 motor without issues?
That's the valve!! See part 1 comments.
Where abouts are you based? There are a couple of specialists I know round Derby way, one being a P6/SD1 garage.
@@Classic_and_Retro Yes Annables are good for parts, they've got several SD1 breaker cars. Across from them in the mill yard is also Nelson Auto Electrical, Richard I believe still has the proper BL/AR diagnostic computer equipment. I'd also recommend Manx engines on Alfreton Rd, they're also very familiar with old British engines. Did my TD5 head for me.