Volantex Phoenix 2400 RC glider unbox and assembly
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 вер 2021
- Volantex Phoenix 2400 RC glider unbox and assembly...
www.volantexrc.eu/volantex-rc...
Volantex RC Phoenix 2400 6-CH Glider with 2400 mm wings 759-3 PNP
Glider in the PNP version, the set includes the model, engine, regulator and servos. You need to buy a battery, charger, transmitter and receiver on your own.
Key Features:
- The 2.4M wingspan provides stable performance and makes you enjoy long glider flights. - A rugged plastic hull provides flexibility and durability to prevent aircraft damage.
- The model has been equipped with a wheel to facilitate landing.
- Engine size 4023 / 1050KV
- Model 6 CH version
Description:
The new Phoenix 2400 glider from the renowned Volantex RC company. The hull is made of plastic thanks to which it is extremely resistant to falls and impacts. The robust design makes the model behave well during the flight. The model is easy to assemble and does not require a lot of time to assemble. - Розваги
Some advice gleaned from various reviews. Take hem as you will
Required:
3S 11.1V 2200~3300mAh LiPo Battery
6 Channel Transmitter and Receiver
Buy a spare prop and wing clips
Beef up the firewall with fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
Change the servos to stronger metal gear ones
Replace all pushrods
Insert a small section of hollow carbon fiber rod at the point of attachment of the control horn on the rudder.
The plastic clevises on Two of the control rods could slip over the threaded ends making them unusable. Replace on ALL control surfaces with a screw type nipple clevises.
Change the 4023/1050KV motor to a 25 Gram heavier 3542/800 kV Motor with an alloy turbo spinner. Using an 13/8 Aeronaut folding prop in combination with 2200-3000 3S batteries. That gives me 32Amps peak current and a good climbing rate with less power consumption. In 15 seconds I am over 100 meters. With a 12x6 folding prop you have beetween 32-35A on full trottle with a 3S 2200mAh Lipo. The original Volantex 40 ESC upgrade works OK with it when you mount it right behind the air cooling hole on one side in front of the fuselage.
Mix a little rudder with the ailerons and a tiny bit of down elevator with the flaps.
When fitting the wings fit one side with the tubular joiners half through, connect the 4 servo leads and push these inside the fuselage. Then slide the other wing half on the joiner tubes and repeat before pushing the wing halves together onto the neat plastic catches. I suggest the servo leads in the wing and fuselage are colour coded to make for glitch free joining.
With a 'Gliders G-Power' 3S 3300mah LiPo, the model balanced correctly (for my liking) and gained height rapidly under power.
With the power off, it's definitely not a 'floater', covering the ground quite rapidly and needing to be actively flown rather than being left to just 'drift around'. It does also tend to 'keep going' on the landing approach, so my next job will be to to swap out the aileron 'Y' leads and use an extra channel, thus allowing 'crow braking' to be programmed in.
beefy aluminum spars are heavy, causing fast landings. Split the aileron wires, and program some Crow/Butterfly to slow it down
I use a 5Ah 3s 20c and with some power off careful gliding can regularly achieve 40mins from flat field. Or 20mins powered with moderate throttle use.
. I changed my ASW28 with about 1.5mm of packing pieces under the trailing edge of the tailplane ( horiz stab) and it made it a much better floater, really, much better. Though a mod like that will be more complex to achieve on the Phoenix.
Happy wings!
Great advice thanks 🙏
Thnx i get one tomorrow
Great vid. Tnx a lot.
Thanks for watching 👍
Good video. Many thanks. Any thoughts on the stock servos - I am quite concerned about their quality - or suitability. Much appreciated. Mark
Thanks. I’ve not had any issues although I don’t fly it that often 👍🏻
I am wondering about the Y adapters for the servo.. there's 2 of them which look identical to me, shouldn't one of them for the ailerons be inverted? Could you please check how did you wire it up? one is labeled H2 and the other one is H5. is the basic channel configuration TAER? it's a pity they didn't include this in the manual, it would definitely speed things up :D thanks for any help
I’m pretty sure H2 is for the aileron as flaps are on channel 5. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
4s is the way to go, just change the ESC to 50amp
Nice 👍🏻
Hello! I have a question. Phoenix 2400 does have a special serial number? Thanks for the answer. Best regards: Béla
I’m not sure sorry 😔
will the two big rods stay within the fuselage or within one of the wings? i have troubles to put in the long big rod into both wings, as the squared metal profile in the wing is slightly squeezed
I keep them in the fuselage 👍
@@tdogrc why are the servos for the ailerons on a Y splitter cable? I don't want to move them simultaneously in the same direction.
Dummy me. Its OK to have them on a Y cable as long as the corresponding servos are placed correctly (symmetric). In contrast the flaps are also on a Y cable and should move in the same direction and simultaneously, which can be achieved if the servos on each wing are facing in the same direction.
@@unclealig yes that’s correct. I did the same thing on my PC6 porter build. I had the flaps on a Y but just flipped the servos round so they both moved in the same direction.
Ciao, puoi dirmi se' il motore Volantex 1050kv può andare a 4s? Grazie
Following
Not good video for begginer. Not help me to build my Phoenix. You miss on video a lot of important details.
I’m very sorry to hear that. I will try much harder next time.