I love the two new friends you made on that project, the sable and the liver Cocker Spaniels. Very timely information as I will be using that battening technique on a project this spring😁
Excellent video Robin, I am a building inspector and you are right cladding can be a minefield. Essentially if within 1m of boundary the cladding needs to be 0class spread of flame. Cavity barriers are only really 100% needed where a cavity is shared between two differently owned buildings I.e flats and this is only scratching the surface. Essentially ask building control if in doubt.
Hi James, Thank you for commenting in your professional capacity!! It is great to know we do have some building inspectors contributing, the funny thing is I see so many quite substantial garden buildings when I am up on a roof and so many are well within the 1m, does this only comply when the structure is over 30m2 or is this for all structures?
Excellent video Robin, safes time making a storey rod very efficient, Looked cold there today Thank goodness for the Hot drinks, I always go the extra mile when you have clients like that 😊, Cant wait for the cladding video.happy
Love the vid bro. The regs and rules are a proper mine field. Good to keep up but I also screen shot everything I see to back my up for any questions but all good in the past 🎉
Great video Robin, I've just subscribed. I would say the main point of reference for Building Regs would be the LABC Technical Manual page 166: 'Cavity barriers are also required behind decorative cladding such as timber boarding which is constructed on the outside of an external cavity masonry wall.' Therefore, open-state intumescent cavity barriers are required horizontally at the top and bottom of the cavity (and at door/window openings). This is not dependent on distance to boundary or storey height.
Neat work as always. I’d be very tempted to align the top runs with the doorframes and window, it’s a couple fewer cuts and fittings, and you have more full-length timbers steadying everything. I know, minute detail.
He mentioned the required ventilation gap so I imagine that would be maintained. He is yet to address that specific detail on camera but he did say there would be some flashing welded to the flat roof allowing for said air movement.
Most interesting was the dog standing at the table saw as you made the cuts with the saw dust landing him. That either means trust or love of the the person. (or he wants to be your apprentice)
Great job 👍🏻I’ll be following these tips in the distant future when my mrs lets me build a workshop in the garden 🙏 . I’m aware of a detail being added, where people put a fall on top of the horizontal battens to stop water pooling and causing rot. I’ve been on a few jobs now where I’ve seen rotted battens behind cladding. Is this something you’ve come across ?
Hey Rob. Love your content. Do you backseal the windows with PEF rod and silicon or is that outdated or too slow a detail. You mentioned I think expanding foam and the Tyveck tape over to the gap.
Thanks for another great video! I've found some of the comments really useful too. I noticed that above the doors and windows you double battened, which from memory at 38mm (or 50mm) is an approved fire barrier, but does this not need to be vented as well? Or is there enough air flow with counter batten to negate this.
Question: Do you have to include the dimensions for the exterior cladding, for a building application ? (overall building footprint) and do you have to be exact to plans ? Thnx
Good question, i suppose that to be to the letter... then the external building dimensions should indeed include for the cladding however in many cases from my experience the given dimensions are normally the structural elements only and the cladding is then added, in percentage terms its only a tiny difference in the overall building measurements
It's kind-of hard to see the pencil-lines on that blue timber...🤔 A white chinagraph pencil would give you a fine white line, but I don't know if it would stand-up to wear on the timber...? 🤔
Fire rating is based on how long it takes to burn . Its not the fact it does or doesn't burn. Take steel it doesn't burn but you still need to protect from heat in a fire.
@cliveramsbotty6077 yes it is to do with the spread of fire and also how the materials react under heat. So timber burns at a know rate and is extremely predictable in a fire where steel is less predictable and buckle and twist causes a building to collapse.. in timber cladding you will also have the chimney stack effect. So by introducing a fire break you slow down the spread of fire
when you read alot of the manufacturers instructions, like James Hardie, when running cladding horizontal they spec more than 25mm airflow, so the 2x1 batten is not suitable, however everybody just uses that. Annoys me when manufacturers don't consider what product are available!
I love the two new friends you made on that project, the sable and the liver Cocker Spaniels. Very timely information as I will be using that battening technique on a project this spring😁
Excellent video Robin, I am a building inspector and you are right cladding can be a minefield. Essentially if within 1m of boundary the cladding needs to be 0class spread of flame. Cavity barriers are only really 100% needed where a cavity is shared between two differently owned buildings I.e flats and this is only scratching the surface. Essentially ask building control if in doubt.
Hi James, Thank you for commenting in your professional capacity!! It is great to know we do have some building inspectors contributing, the funny thing is I see so many quite substantial garden buildings when I am up on a roof and so many are well within the 1m, does this only comply when the structure is over 30m2 or is this for all structures?
Excellent video Robin, safes time making a storey rod very efficient, Looked cold there today Thank goodness for the Hot drinks, I always go the extra mile when you have clients like that 😊, Cant wait for the cladding video.happy
Nice work Robin and Ed!
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the vid bro. The regs and rules are a proper mine field. Good to keep up but I also screen shot everything I see to back my up for any questions but all good in the past 🎉
Did you have dust extraction on the mitre saw? If not the dogs will have put on a few pounds!
Great work Robin!
Cheers Sam, hope your well bro
Great video Robin, I've just subscribed.
I would say the main point of reference for Building Regs would be the LABC Technical Manual page 166:
'Cavity barriers are also required behind decorative cladding such as timber boarding which is constructed on the outside of an external cavity masonry wall.'
Therefore, open-state intumescent cavity barriers are required horizontally at the top and bottom of the cavity (and at door/window openings). This is not dependent on distance to boundary or storey height.
Neat work as always. I’d be very tempted to align the top runs with the doorframes and window, it’s a couple fewer cuts and fittings, and you have more full-length timbers steadying everything. I know, minute detail.
Thank you Ed & Robin. Happy New Year!
Extremely informative video !
Great, informative video. Thank you
Hi Robin. Your just showing off now with clients that bring you out cups of tea 😂😂
Another cracking job Robin, just 1 question tho, the top vent detail what gap did you leave to the soffit ? we didnt see a close up.
He mentioned the required ventilation gap so I imagine that would be maintained. He is yet to address that specific detail on camera but he did say there would be some flashing welded to the flat roof allowing for said air movement.
Most interesting was the dog standing at the table saw as you made the cuts with the saw dust landing him. That either means trust or love of the the person. (or he wants to be your apprentice)
That'll be the 'Bench-dog'..😊
What video is it where u show how to fit the battens to the corner posts ?
Great job 👍🏻I’ll be following these tips in the distant future when my mrs lets me build a workshop in the garden 🙏 . I’m aware of a detail being added, where people put a fall on top of the horizontal battens to stop water pooling and causing rot. I’ve been on a few jobs now where I’ve seen rotted battens behind cladding. Is this something you’ve come across ?
If your looking for your balls there in your wife's handbag! 🙄
Hey Rob. Love your content. Do you backseal the windows with PEF rod and silicon or is that outdated or too slow a detail. You mentioned I think expanding foam and the Tyveck tape over to the gap.
Thanks for another great video! I've found some of the comments really useful too. I noticed that above the doors and windows you double battened, which from memory at 38mm (or 50mm) is an approved fire barrier, but does this not need to be vented as well? Or is there enough air flow with counter batten to negate this.
Plenty of Airflow as you guessed with the counter batten, thanks for watching
Thanks Robin, this will make my detailing much nicer/simpler!
Watched it again (with my glasses on) and saw that there is a vent gap above the sliding doors....
Question: Do you have to include the dimensions for the exterior cladding, for a building application ? (overall building footprint) and do you have to be exact to plans ? Thnx
Good question, i suppose that to be to the letter... then the external building dimensions should indeed include for the cladding however in many cases from my experience the given dimensions are normally the structural elements only and the cladding is then added, in percentage terms its only a tiny difference in the overall building measurements
@@ukconstruction Thnx matey !
thanks!
question: with that type of ventilation, or space, how do you avoid plagues like ants or certein types of insects to nest inside ?
The strong plastic section we use has insect proof holes
@@ukconstruction i might have miss it, thank you
I can't wait for you to reveal the reveals.
It's kind-of hard to see the pencil-lines on that blue timber...🤔 A white chinagraph pencil would give you a fine white line, but I don't know if it would stand-up to wear on the timber...? 🤔
Yep that would work well I reckon, good suggestion
great video.......................but why pilot drill the batton when using SPAX screws ? I thought they were self drilling/cutting screws ?
Fire rating is based on how long it takes to burn . Its not the fact it does or doesn't burn. Take steel it doesn't burn but you still need to protect from heat in a fire.
i thought it's more about how long it can contain a fire for in order to limit the spread?
@cliveramsbotty6077 yes it is to do with the spread of fire and also how the materials react under heat. So timber burns at a know rate and is extremely predictable in a fire where steel is less predictable and buckle and twist causes a building to collapse.. in timber cladding you will also have the chimney stack effect. So by introducing a fire break you slow down the spread of fire
Metabo, milwaukee, hilti, you would need 2 vans for all those batteries and chargers 😂😂 nice video
why didnt you treat all the cut ends?
It's pressure treated
why didnt you treat all the cut ends
when you read alot of the manufacturers instructions, like James Hardie, when running cladding horizontal they spec more than 25mm airflow, so the 2x1 batten is not suitable, however everybody just uses that. Annoys me when manufacturers don't consider what product are available!
That’s a tall extension, I saw Edd on a step up! 😂
We’re having to put these intumescent strips all round the tops and bottoms, notching our batten over it
What type of buildings? Are they terraced dwellings or flats??
This is a re-upload, right?
no its a new video
@@ukconstruction oh, sorry, you're doing the horizontal ones in this video. I recognized the corner and thought "I've already seen this..."
💪👍
6:22 dog needs some anti-dandruff shampoo
Spaniel dust extraction😂
I think you have to throw the dogbone toy based on the looks of the dogs 🙃
All the time!!
Better music - but not much!!!
No need for music.