Many thanks for the video (All of them), there has to be a way to consistently set the needle bar bushing, I figure if it was done in a high paced factory, there must be a gauge, measurement, or block that is placed somewhere in or on the body to quickly put into correct position (Just food or thought). Once again, Many thanks.
I wonder would it be worth it to gently grind down a heavy needle to 1/6" above the eye, and keep it in the tool kit as a gauge? I have 7 vintage singers to restore, if that's the height for all of them then why not. I have class 66 /115/99/and 15
Thankyou for this video, exactly what I needed! 💚💚
You're so welcome!
Thank you for this very informative video and warning us not to remove certain things. Keep showing these videos.
I have used my blue taped needle sooooo many times. Thanks for the great useful tip and tool. 🦋
Glad it was helpful!
You had a stroke of genius there with the masking tape Bob! I'm going to use an old needle to do it and keep it set aside to use over and over. :-)
Not sure about genius, but I did go through quite a few failed ideas before the masking tape...
Many thanks for the video (All of them), there has to be a way to consistently set the needle bar bushing, I figure if it was done in a high paced factory, there must be a gauge, measurement, or block that is placed somewhere in or on the body to quickly put into correct position (Just food or thought). Once again, Many thanks.
Great! Now I want to pick up a 221 😈
Thanks Bob!
Don't blame me! :-)
Thank you - that really helped!
You clever cookie, Bob
Great info! Thanks Bob!
Thanks Mary!
ty for all your tips!
You are so welcome!
Any difference with timing on the white featherweight?
No, it's the same.
I wonder would it be worth it to gently grind down a heavy needle to 1/6" above the eye, and keep it in the tool kit as a gauge? I have 7 vintage singers to restore, if that's the height for all of them then why not. I have class 66 /115/99/and 15
I don't see why not!