Yes, I use limit straps on my rc rock crawlers so that they can climb steeper angles without flipping over backward. They also help put down traction on the front tires while climbing. Same on the rear for descending. We put them in a way that doesn't affect articulation. Usually in the center of the axle and chassis.
In 1/10 and 1/8 off-road racing, the purpose of adjusting droop is to change the handling of the vehicle. Droop screws make it convenient and easy; they are not primarily a protective measure against pulling forces on the shock. Not many 1/10 buggies have droop screws so we use internal limiters instead. Also, there are different length shock eyelets for coarse adjustments, and a number of adjustments affect droop as a side effect: changes to the inner hinge pin pills, axle height, and shock mounting locations. Droop screws can be used to limit how much the rear of the chassis rises when braking or the front lifts when accelerating. Springs and the kick-up/anti-squat geometries provide elastic means to change this behavior as well but droop screws give you a hard stop. They also affect body roll when cornering.
Great and simple explanation of suspension droop. I noticed on my very first Traxxas 4-Tec 2.0 steering A arms, that there were set screw holes provided near the hinges, with a small platform directly beneath for the set screw to mount against. I disassembled the steering and threaded the holes to accommodate the set screws, and voilà! I had droop control. Thanks for sharing this info with us!
Yes works good on little 1/18 scale truck ASSC when I changed motors from 5600kv to 9000kv glued the diff’s making them spools crazy fast maybe 30 mph. I was hooked on RC cars trucks looking at Armma 1/7 now
What about the idea that droop screws help with not breaking off a shocks rod end when the a-arm over extends during a cartwheel or bad crash? Although they adjust ride height, which I’ve actually seen myself from adjusting my own droop screws, I’ve always heard that they prevent the shocks from over extending, simply by setting the droop screws to where you have to slightly compress the shock before installing it to the shock stand off.
I set the droop screws with the body supported and the wheels not touching the ground to see the full extension of the struts. Once set, I load the car with all components to set the spring loading.
“Internal Suspension Limiters” don’t do anything to prevent damage to the internals of your shocks. The piston is still slamming down onto a new position within the dampener itself. Now “Droop Screws” and “ Suspension Limit Straps” actually do help with droop and protect you internals within the dampeners preventing them from damage. 👍💯
Interesting. Never heard of sag screws before. I looked up sag screws and not one accurate result shows up? If someone mentioned sag in Canada, it would often refer to a problem where the car is overloaded or the suspension is under performing causing the suspension to sag.
@RCexplained ”sag” is a mountainbiking term that refers to the amount the suspension compresses under the weight of the rider. To adjust sag, we adjust the air pressure in the shock or preload collar if it’s a coil spring. So it’s more like the preload adjustment on our shocks: how much the suspension ”sags” when it carries the weight of the car ready to go. Droop and sag are different in the sense that droop is how much we restrict downtravel when the chassis is unweighed and sag is how much we allow the suspension to compress when the chassis is ”not unweighed”. The adjustments meet when both of them are at zero. If you did that by limiting how far the suspension extends, you set the droop to zero. If you made the suspension harder or added preload to the point that it doesn’t compress under the weight of the vehicle (or rider, if biking), you set the sag to zero.
Yes, I use limit straps on my rc rock crawlers so that they can climb steeper angles without flipping over backward. They also help put down traction on the front tires while climbing. Same on the rear for descending. We put them in a way that doesn't affect articulation. Usually in the center of the axle and chassis.
In 1/10 and 1/8 off-road racing, the purpose of adjusting droop is to change the handling of the vehicle. Droop screws make it convenient and easy; they are not primarily a protective measure against pulling forces on the shock.
Not many 1/10 buggies have droop screws so we use internal limiters instead. Also, there are different length shock eyelets for coarse adjustments, and a number of adjustments affect droop as a side effect: changes to the inner hinge pin pills, axle height, and shock mounting locations.
Droop screws can be used to limit how much the rear of the chassis rises when braking or the front lifts when accelerating. Springs and the kick-up/anti-squat geometries provide elastic means to change this behavior as well but droop screws give you a hard stop. They also affect body roll when cornering.
Finally a video without screaming loud music at the beginning good on you mate thank you very much for your information well done
Great and simple explanation of suspension droop.
I noticed on my very first Traxxas 4-Tec 2.0 steering A arms, that there were set screw holes provided near the hinges, with a small platform directly beneath for the set screw to mount against.
I disassembled the steering and threaded the holes to accommodate the set screws, and voilà! I had droop control.
Thanks for sharing this info with us!
Thanks for the comment Casey!
Thanks for teaching me something new ryan
Glad you enjoyed!
Yes works good on little 1/18 scale truck ASSC when I changed motors from 5600kv to 9000kv glued the diff’s making them spools crazy fast maybe 30 mph. I was hooked on RC cars trucks looking at Armma 1/7 now
What about the idea that droop screws help with not breaking off a shocks rod end when the a-arm over extends during a cartwheel or bad crash? Although they adjust ride height, which I’ve actually seen myself from adjusting my own droop screws, I’ve always heard that they prevent the shocks from over extending, simply by setting the droop screws to where you have to slightly compress the shock before installing it to the shock stand off.
Droop screws do prevent over extension.
Do you set the droop screws with the car in running conditions fully loaded with batteries and body on?
I set the droop screws with the body supported and the wheels not touching the ground to see the full extension of the struts. Once set, I load the car with all components to set the spring loading.
“Internal Suspension Limiters” don’t do anything to prevent damage to the internals of your shocks. The piston is still slamming down onto a new position within the dampener itself. Now “Droop Screws” and “ Suspension Limit Straps” actually do help with droop and protect you internals within the dampeners preventing them from damage. 👍💯
Yep, you got it!
If droop screws weren't screwed In evenly on both sides, could that cause it to pull to one side on hard acceleration?
Yes, it would be ”tweaked”.
Hello..can you tell me where's the droop screw on a Losi 22 drag? Thanks
Hi I build a new buggy and u set droop and after few jumps the shocks was spongy and slow rebound. Do you know why please, is it I need harder shocks
Did you say you don’t use rear droop?
reducing droop in the front of an offroad vehicle can help fight the tendency to wheelie
For sure and a more aggressive stance!
Stop telling people droop screws set ride height. That's what the spring collars are for.
Droop ? wtf lol I’m the uk we call it sag
Interesting. Never heard of sag screws before. I looked up sag screws and not one accurate result shows up? If someone mentioned sag in Canada, it would often refer to a problem where the car is overloaded or the suspension is under performing causing the suspension to sag.
@RCexplained ”sag” is a mountainbiking term that refers to the amount the suspension compresses under the weight of the rider.
To adjust sag, we adjust the air pressure in the shock or preload collar if it’s a coil spring.
So it’s more like the preload adjustment on our shocks: how much the suspension ”sags” when it carries the weight of the car ready to go.
Droop and sag are different in the sense that droop is how much we restrict downtravel when the chassis is unweighed and sag is how much we allow the suspension to compress when the chassis is ”not unweighed”.
The adjustments meet when both of them are at zero. If you did that by limiting how far the suspension extends, you set the droop to zero. If you made the suspension harder or added preload to the point that it doesn’t compress under the weight of the vehicle (or rider, if biking), you set the sag to zero.