Be careful! Using a RED FILTER for High Contrast Scenes in my Black & White Photographs.
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Filters for Back & White Photography.
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Mamiya RZ67
FILM - Ilford XP2
DEVELOPER - 510 PYRO
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER - ILFORD MG RESIN
DEVELOPER - ILFORD MG
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, Gopro 10 Black, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS, Valoi 360 Film Holder System for scanes, Zeapon Micro 2 Motor Slider,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MUSIC CREDITING
UA-cam Studio Music
This is awesome, I am a total nerd for the red filter! 15 years of shooting has revealed to me that I love contrast, so while i didn't learn anything new from this, I absolutely love your process in this video. You've got a new subscriber in me, and i think that spiky guy is a rake or windrower that sets up the rows for the bailers.
Right for me !!
Not watched one of your videos for a while Roger
You are the boss ! It's 3 years now since I went back to film photography and boy did I pig out on your videos when I started
It's a great thing you do !
Thanks Austen and welcome back!
Left, number 1. It’s wow!
Fantastic again, l love a red filter and the high contrast it gives, especially on bright blue skys and a sunny sea scape to pull the cloud structure out. Oh and the red spiky thing is a hay bob. It rakes the cut loose grass into piled lines ready for the bailer to pick it up. Another great vid
Hay Bob! Thanks Matt.
4:49, I think it's called a tedder in English I believe. To turn around mown grass in order to dry to become silage or (if you do it more often) hay.
Hay Bob?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss they do more or less the same, but a haybob is quite small and works different. Today I only see those in use by hobby farmers that have 1 hectare maximum or to turn swaths of straw.
I hope I don't bother you with the long stories. But if you give me a chance to talk about farm equipment I'll grab it 😜
Thanks Roger
Great use of the Red filter. 👍
May I ad, the humble Polarizing filter, it gives apparent sharpness to an image, nice on its own or with Red or Orange filters. Also the Polarizer filter may give a darker tone to Reds that you were concerned about. Plus your skies go dark as with a colour filters.
Thanks Peter. I have a few polarisers and hardly use them! I should really as there has been times where I've taken photos and reflections in windows or on the lake can be a pain
What a great video! I appreciate your insights. I just started using an rb67 for landscape photography. I'm sure your videos are going to make me a better photographer. Thanks 🙏🏼
I never get tyred of your content Roger 👍
Thanks Yorkie!
I was right about the tractor on Facebook, also the piece of equipment is called a Tedder
Two in a row, A couple of days ago I read an article on using a red filter, now you with a great video on red filters ? I think I'm being told to order one :-)
I'm on the 6 seconds shot, I like the tyre shine on the 6 seconds much more that on the other one.
You'll enjoy the results with blue sky/fluffy cloud days
Ansel Adams for some of his most dramatic photos often used a red filter. I like the effects of the red filter when there is a blue sky or especially when there is a blue sky with white clouds.
I didn't know Ansel Adams used such filters. Interesting. Cheers.
I would say the a print at 5 seconds. 4 sec was too light, 6 is a touch on the dark side. But that is just me expressing my personal opinion. I'm looking at the difference between the detail in the lightest part of the tyre tread & the sky. Bottom rh quarter of the print.
I agree. 5 second could be interesting.
You can achieve an even stronger effect with infrared film. I can recommend trying it out while infrared film is still available. But the best time to try it is spring or summer. By the way: I also used to have the Mamiya RZ67. It's such a heavy camera and definitely something to put on a tripod in my opinion. I think it's even heavier than my Toyo View 45a 4x5 large format camera 😅
Hi Roger. Great adventure and a great subject to learn for people who want to do serious B&W photography. It is a fascinating world. I would suggest that if at all possible, you should use a Yellow filter equivalent to the old Kodak wratten #12 or as it was known when I was young, a minus blue. It has the same effect as the Red filter on the sky, foliage and the shadows ( usually illuminated by blue portion of the light spectrum ), but is much less harsh than a Red filter. A light Orange filter is also very useful, but the effect of an Orange filter is very tricky to read. The problem is finidng #12 Yellow these days. Most of the stuff avilable are the equivalent of #6 and #8 Wratten. I have three yellow Nikon filters, one is equivalent to #12. I also have some Tiffin and Heliopan #12 & #15 filters in 77 and 82mm ( they cost me an arm, a leg and a few fingers ) for when I really want to push the Blue back. You should also try and overexpose and underdevelop the film if possible to comensate for the loss of shadow density. Those underexposed shots looked quite ' digital ' like.
Thanks Lensman. I have some various yellow filters that cam with some of the older cameras I have. No numbers on them though. They look less yellow than my Cokin Filter.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss They are probably #6 or thereabout. the K2 is about #8.
Thanks for the video Roger. I learned I’m in error about how filters work. More experiments needed.
6 Second - more imposing. Great fun, thanks Roger. I quite liked the white tractor :)
Glad you enjoyed it. I'd like to see the farmers reaction if I showed him his red tractor in white.
I like the one on the right
Ilford actually advertises that you can develop XP2 in B/W chemistry. This and the fact that you can shoot at any iso 50-800 all on the same roll, even mixing ISO’s on the same roll, with no special processing, makes this the most versatile film you can buy.
I'm not sure you can mix various speeds in BW chems. Maybe C41.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I’ve done it successfully. I’d love to see you try it to see if you get the same results.
How about a polarizer filter? Does it have effects in B&W photography? Normally it is used in colour photography to increase contrast and darken the blue sky. A red filter + polarizer could turn the sky to black.
Bit late but that implement you played with I think its a tedder or a hay bob, used for flipping cut grass over for drying in a field before foraging it.
That 6s tyre picture is possibly my fave, its so punchy and interesting. Like candid shots of older people shows their wrinkle, the texture you captured in the tyre grabs the eye's attention.
Thanks. Yes you're right 👍
Great video, Roger! That GB weather report really made me laugh! Very inspiring and great tips on using red filters. And, I'm gonna go out and shoot with my RB67 one day soon.
I won't make a BBC weather man
For anyone who wants to get an idea of what different filters have, open a colour image in Photoshop/GIMP or whatever.
Red filter=red channel
Green filter=green channel
Blue filter=blue channel
Orange filter is a less extreme version of red filter.
Yellow filter pretty much just darkens blues (including shadows, which are illuminated by blue sky).
Personally, I don’t tend to use coloured filters for overall scenes; rather, I use them to accentuate specific elements that are essential to the photo. For example, I shot one photo with light blue graffiti on light concrete; a yellow filter darkened the paint, making it readable. It also darkened the blue sky and sea, but I could live with that.
I shall have to give that a try Stephen!
Wow wow wow. Amazing job!
I’ve tried developing XP2 with D76 with good results !
Well done - sometimes I tend to forget what (colored) filters can do for my BW photography on film...
(And throwing XP2super in BW developer works just fine - done that at times too...)
you're shady shots will need more compensation because your indirect light source has a blue bias coming from the higher colour temp - an extra stop or 2 at least :0 (expose for shadows - process for highlights) - cheers from australia :)
ps RZ's were notorious for wind on problems there so much tension in the system because you're moving film and re cocking the shutter - hence the auto firing, if I remember rightly if there are battery probs the leaf shutter will default to 1/400th - i used to work in a pro lab in sydney 90's (owned by alan ward ex joes basement - london) this camera caught out many pro's. the RB is heavier and slower and less plastic (seperate film wind and shutter reset) but much, much more reliable,
as long as you remember to wind on - lol ! sorry for the verbosity
Number 1 print Ilike most. Thanks for this video.
Excellent video sir!
Thankyou
Under expose and over develop . Higher contrast filters in printing . Use ortho chromatic film . Use a red filter on your camera . All in combination .
Awesome photos. Enjoying your darkroom stuff too.
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Roger, as strange as it sounds, I had weird things happen to my RZ67 when I over tightened my tri-pod to the camera. It pressed on the focus rail and created pressure on the electrical bundle in the bottom of the camera.
When I reduced the pressure, it worked fine.
Who knows, try it.
Cheers mate!
Thanks Gord. I'll keep that in mind!
I call it a red spinny thing!!! Love the shots with the red filter ... i need to do that more myself!!! I also didn't realize there was a 645 back!!! I do prefer number 2 for the drama!!!
Thanks Brian. I only have a 465 back for that camera which suits me. They are expensive.
Tried a red filter on my Bronica ETR. I didn't give it enough shutter. The shy popped, but the old building was very dark. Not so much a fail, but a learning experience. Looking forward to trying again.
Great video. Thanks.
It's not too good I'm shade hence why I used subjects in sunlight (with blue sky)
#1! Excellent exercise about the sense and nonsense using a "Red" filter 🙂
That was fun Roger. Loved the humour. Both tyre prints good. Matter of taste, but think the left one is more ‘correct’. How about 5 seconds? I know, yet another sheet of paper gone!
I use an infrared filter (with red sensitive film) and simply meter with the filter in place.
Thanks Henline. I won't go back on it now. I chose that one lol. Must shoot some IR at some point. Never tried!
The darker one wins for me. Great photo too!
I just got my first roll of Ilford SP2 from the lab yesterday. I am happy with the film quality but the light is getting low here up north in Iceland and ISO 400 is not enough even though I am shooting in the middle of the day so now I think it is time for Ilford 3200.
Roger ..best episode so far ..well done ..
Thanks Nicholas.
I quite like the unnaturally white tractor. and the tyre is just beautiful in its simplicity. It is sharp. Love the background blur. Love the contrast and detail. I love the more dramatic 6 second, but agree the clouds are a lot. I liked the original 5 second you were going for. Why did you go either side of that, instead of with the original 5 second idea?
I totally agree! Not sure why I did that. I think I felt I could have a bit more or a bit less time I suppose.
Totally with you saying it's film, go out and have fun. I've been using BW negative film and making them positives (slides) with BW reversal chemicals. As they recommend, only use a clear film base film for that process. I developed Ilford Delta 100 with Fomapan R100 reversal kit and it looks horrible. Maybe I could get a better results if I over exposed maybe 2-4 stops but it's not worth the money to see that film as a direct positive.
All photos taken in sunlight have more contrast because there are shadows. The red filter is red because it lets red light through. The red filter is red because it blocks blue light from passing through. If there are no red things and blue things in the scene a red filter will have `no' effect on contrast. It will do something. It doesn't let only pure red light pass through but some orange yellow etc. and at the other end blocks a little cyan purple too.
May I ask why didn't you consider yellow or orange filter instead of using the red one? People tends to forget about the orange one and others live with the yellow on the lens... I use the red filter (dark red actually) only when I really need a dark sky. Generally, when there are no clouds and I want a strong contrast between ground (rocks) and the sky. Or if the clouds are everywhere, high and dark. The dark red filter separates very well dark clouds from the free sky below and the sky from ground. I have some terrific holga shots with these these three "layers".
I prefer orange to red usually to be dramatic and I pick the yellow just when the contrast is low and often in the streets. I check with the spot meter to see how a surface change with the filter... Don't know if you do the same. Spot meters are powerful tools.
Also, sometimes I choose the polarizer instead... Depending on the fog.
Of course the development and the process play their role.
I just took the red out for a play as it was blue sky and white cloud. I use orange and yellow also. More so orange and red. And more often than not I shoot without filters.
I have never tried xp2 in b/w chemistry before. Tried some c200 back when it was cheap. It was very poor, no contrast, in rodinal. I have a bunch of xp2 in the freezer, I've avoided using it, as I don't develop colour film & I refuse to pay the current dev costs. Thanks a lot for this, I will thaw some xp2 out and give it a go.
XP2 Super is magical @iso 100 in HC110.
@@lensman5762 also in 510 Pyro 😜
LOL!
Great video roger
Orange #21 is my go to
6sec for sure, contrast is great
I like #1.
The machine might be a hay tedder (rotary tedder), from the glimpse I got. But I might be wrong, of course. English ist not my first language either. Best ask the farmer, next time.
I prefer the tire at 4 seconds. Lighter shadows let the image breath a little bit.
Thanks! I learned a lot and think I will stay to my orange filter. By the way, if I had had your camera, I wouldn’t dare to put any filter on it, for fear it would be the straw that would break my back. 😇
ha ha, it's a lump!
Prefer the one on the right. Lovely print.
Me too!
Hello!! Could you please tell me your top 3 favorite film cameras? Thank you so much! Love your channel!
Done Wes. On FB
Spikey thing looks like it could be a cultivator.
I liked the extra darkroom video for members. I am new to silver gelatin printing and find your videos very instructive. Just a question on spotting prints. It seems that you can no longer buy the dyes as they are not being manufactured. What are printers going to do in the future? I am having some issues with holes in my negatives, especially 4x5 which is probably a handling issue. I preferred the darker print. Love your work Roger. Thanks
Thanks Andrew. Have a look for Marshalls Spot-All. Thats what I use.
I've had shutter issues on my ETRSi. It's a huge pain in the ass cause it had to happen to my best lens. $250 repair
I will change the batteries and run an old expired roll through Dane. Hope its the issue!
Quick question. Might sound stupid. Instead of metering at 400 iso and compensating 3 stops could'nt you just meter as a iso 50?
That is compensating 3 stops.
It's not stupid question at all. I could have Marcos. I'd have got the same result. Others may well have done. I like to set my meter to what ever my film speed is. Habit I suppose.
You can develope in b&w learnt that in college
ty for the content
If you process the XP2 in C-41 chemistry, the developer will replace the silver grain by some dye blobs and make the film completely grainless. I've used it once and the only downside to it is that focusing the images under the enlarger becomes a real nightmare!
510 Pyro does a similar thing via the stain filling up the gaps between grain :)
.this comment made me smile 😁 ..is that pixel offset ..on the latest digital cameras ..I mentioned this to the boss before ....dye transfusion v pixel off set
I liked right 😮
Number 1
And I thoght my choice of subjects to shoot were bad .
Although I like both prints....No 2 draws your eye to the detail and scratches of the tyre.....No1 doesn't
Cheers mate.
Have you tested if the filter is actually 3 stops? You could take a light reading with the external meter and then just take another one through the filter. I would do that with each filter to see how much they actually cut light.
The way the correct filter factor is calculated is very different to just putting the filter on top of a light meter. The filter factor is usually determined by the effect it has on the spectral sensitivity of an emulsion and densitometric measurements. This is one of the reasons different types of emulsions react differently to filters plus the fact that filters alter the effective sensitivity of the emulsion. The 3 stops filter factor is usually for a panchromatic emulsion under average overcast skies or about 8000 Kelvin.
Yes Janne, I have tested these Cokin ones. The only one that throws me is the Green Filter. Never had a good result with it!.
...one more question - where did the page with the film sensitivity graphs come from?
I made those myself using screen shots of the films data sheets years ago as a reference.
What would an Orange filter do at the farm?
Just less intense.
5 seconds ;-). Surprised you didn't give the hubcap a mild dodge.
There was nothing there Richard. It would have been a washy looking black. But I did have a glance at it!
I will try this red filter, because i like results, is very contrasted for the sky, but with lightmeter of Nikon F5 i need underexposed of 3 stops with hp5 ?
Your F5 will decide the exposure for you once the filter is on. I'd suggest using the Exposure Lock and meter on the subject rather than the sky or you may get dark shadows. Depends how bright your subject is.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok Roger I will try tomorrow
In my opinion the best place for a Red filter in in the Trash.
Surely not. Could make a great cup coaster.
6 second tire for me. But then I'm a contrast monster. Don't care how unnatural it looks as long as it pops.
(13:43) 5sec? 😇
I think your showing your feminine side there, one moment you are saying you prefer the 4 second exposure and just like that it is the 6 second exposure.😂
Can't make me mind up Steve! LOL