I would like to say thank you for making these videos!! You gave me the confidence to tackle the rebuild on my yfz450r. Just got her running!! What break-in procedure do you recommend? Thank you!!
Anytime man. So i do a couple heat cycles then first ride for the first 15-20 minutes i try and stay off the rev limiter after that its full send time. Change the oil afterwards and your good.
Great video! I picked up a 2010 Yfz450r and the engine was in boxes all apart. The buckets that hold the cam shims were all separated. Any idea what the stock shims would be for intake and exhaust?
I run a race cut harness so i actually don’t have the connection for that along with some other stuff i eliminate. As far as the machine goes i don’t think you gain anything w the delete.
Thanks for the video bro really helpful. One thing i need help with, the shim sizes you use for hot cam stage 2 if you have. Or maybe the specs. Thanks in advance brother
So the best thing ti do is grab the hot cams shim kit then just check the valve clearances and adjust accordingly. A good micrometer is a must have and there are websites online that can do the math for you to find the correct shim size.
Awesome video John! One question for you, I have a small drippy oil leak from my rebuilt motor, at one of the bottom end case bolt nearest the brake pedal. In your opinion What could be a temporary solution for this leak as an engine builder without tearing the engine apart to chase a leak? Some sort of rtv? Thanks in advance.
@@ononewheel7 I just took your advice and rechecked case bolts, they are tight and not loose. Looks like seeping out of two bottom case bolts, closest to bottom motor mount. not center cases at all, center looks to be nice and dry.
My 2020 yfz450r ran just fine took out and rode it again it was high idle until I floors throttle and then it came back down when you put in gear it go by it self without hitting throttle now it will only turn over but won’t crank
So my 1/4” one is a huskey (home depot) then my 3/8” one is a Kobalt (Lowes) i actually just replaced them both today with a new 3/8” digital one from lowes a kobalt and it goes from 5 ft lbs - 100 ft lbs it was 176.00 which i don’t think is horrible considering it will replace my previous two. I am excited to start using it. Thank you man put a lot of work in this one glad you liked it.
Would you be able to tell me how to verify oil pressure/feed going to the top end on these? I just did a full rebuild and want to make sure as the oil pump looks a bit worn (new one ordered) should I just run it for a minute and check if the cams are soaked popping the cover off?
@ononewheel7 should there be alot coming out or just a dribble from the top? I'm not sure if my starter is spinning it fast enough to pump all the way up to the head.
@ononewheel7 I guess there's a check bolt on the backside of on the cylinder #8 bolt near the intake boot. Once started it streams out of there pretty good. Thank you again for your videos and replies. Thanks to you I feel like I know these motors in and out now😀
hello, I have a problem with yfz450r. Currently I have sharp camshaft and an hc piston. The engine has no strength to turn, there is too much compression. Valve clearances are 0.20 exhaust and 0.10 intake After blocking the decompressor, it turns the same, and he sees a defect in it. Is it possible that the valve is not extending enough? how to adjust it and is it possible?
You need to double check your timing. You need to set top dead center on the compression stroke this is when the piston is traveling up when turning the engine over by hand counter clockwise. Your cams may be 180 degrees out of time. Check that and let me know.
@@ononewheel7 So here's how: I checked the timing three times and it's OK each time. Turning the engine with a socket wrench is no harder than in other engines. The problem occurs only when trying to start it with the starter - before the TDC it slows down a lot during the compression stroke and as soon as it passes it accelerates and then slows down again. One person suggested setting the valve clearances tighter (0.15 exhaust), (0.05 intake) and setting the decompression clearance, whatever that means.
@QuadGarageATV you can’t really know by turning it over by hand its normally hard as it builds compression. How old is the battery and starter? One or both could be weak. If you have a compression tester you could check compression. And the decompression spring is intact right. I run 14:1 compression and mine starts fine .
I don’t think changing valve clearances will change anything. If you go tighter it will make it harder to start. Looser won’t make too much of a difference except for some valve noise.
@@ononewheel7 Hi! I dealt with the problem of difficult starting and basically the inability to start. It turned out that the error was in the rollers made by the company. The decompressor pin did not extend as much as it should, I put a different exhaust shaft and everything returned to normal. The exhaust shaft went for repairs where they previously wanted money for supposedly adjusting the decompressor clearance lol! Thank you for your willingness to help, sorry for my English but I use a translator :)
Def #1 engine build tutorial for yfz450r on youtube period.! Saved me countless amount of $ and time.. appreciate ur time and dedication..
Thanks man
thank you so much you made this process easy. I am more confident when knowing everything I need to know is easily accessible in one video.
Anytime thank you
Great video best one by far
Thanks man.
absolutely love your video i am rebuilding a wr450f 2003 love these bikes thanks Mel from UK
Thank you. Good luck with your build
I would like to say thank you for making these videos!! You gave me the confidence to tackle the rebuild on my yfz450r. Just got her running!! What break-in procedure do you recommend? Thank you!!
Anytime man. So i do a couple heat cycles then first ride for the first 15-20 minutes i try and stay off the rev limiter after that its full send time. Change the oil afterwards and your good.
FIRST! 👍 congrats on the fresh build, looks great man
Awesome vid makes me want to build a Yfz
Thank you
🔥🔥🔥 video thank you for sharing your knowledge and trying to help the quad community
Anytime thanks for watching
Hell yeah! Super helpful. Looking at doing a similar build. Thank you!
Glad to hear it thank you
Wow great video🙂👍
Thanks man
best one yet
Thank you
Awesome video and very helpful thank you
Thank you for watching
nice solid build!
Thanks man
Love the video! I have 2011 yfz450x, the rod bearing wiped out. Do you recommend oem crank or aftermarket?
Thanks. 2014+ Oem cranks is what i always run.
Epic video! Thank you
Thanks for watching
great vid!
Thank you
Great video! I picked up a 2010 Yfz450r and the engine was in boxes all apart. The buckets that hold the cam shims were all separated. Any idea what the stock shims would be for intake and exhaust?
Thanks man. You would really need to assemble it on a bench then bench shim it to see where it’s at then adjust as needed.
@@ononewheel7 that’s what I was thinking. Figured it was worth a try to ask. Thanks again for the awesome video, helped me out a lot!!👍👍
Awesome video, whats the benefit on doing the speed semsor delete
I run a race cut harness so i actually don’t have the connection for that along with some other stuff i eliminate. As far as the machine goes i don’t think you gain anything w the delete.
Thanks for the video bro really helpful. One thing i need help with, the shim sizes you use for hot cam stage 2 if you have. Or maybe the specs. Thanks in advance brother
So the best thing ti do is grab the hot cams shim kit then just check the valve clearances and adjust accordingly. A good micrometer is a must have and there are websites online that can do the math for you to find the correct shim size.
Awesome!!
Thank you
Awesome video John!
One question for you, I have a small drippy oil leak from my rebuilt motor, at one of the bottom end case bolt nearest the brake pedal.
In your opinion What could be a temporary solution for this leak as an engine builder without tearing the engine apart to chase a leak? Some sort of rtv? Thanks in advance.
Thank you.
Have you tried just re torquing the case bolts? Is it coming from the case half’s?
@@ononewheel7 I just took your advice and rechecked case bolts, they are tight and not loose. Looks like seeping out of two bottom case bolts, closest to bottom motor mount. not center cases at all, center looks to be nice and dry.
Thanks!! What Brand do you use un torque wrenches, and what 1/4 and 1/2 models ?
I have a lowes brand ( kobalt ) digital torque wrench now it goes from 5-100ftlbs then i have have a lager manual craftsman that does 250 ftlb
@@ononewheel7 you Can share a text with the corresponding torque for engine bolts? Thanks!
This video has all the specs for the entire engine.
My 2020 yfz450r ran just fine took out and rode it again it was high idle until I floors throttle and then it came back down when you put in gear it go by it self without hitting throttle now it will only turn over but won’t crank
So it turns over but does not start?
Air
Fuel
Spark
Check those 3 and let me know what you find.
@@ononewheel7 yes it turns over but will not fire the last time it fire up it was start also
Hard start
Need to check compression if you can
Is it Turing over slowly?
@@ononewheel7 no it turn over fast
Can you show how to do a leak down test on this 450r
Ill try and make a video soon on that.
@@ononewheel7 nice
Great video!! Could you rebuild my motor ?
I do build engines for people on the side email me if your serious.
where can i get your torque wrench?
btw epic video :)
So my 1/4” one is a huskey (home depot) then my 3/8” one is a Kobalt (Lowes) i actually just replaced them both today with a new 3/8” digital one from lowes a kobalt and it goes from 5 ft lbs - 100 ft lbs it was 176.00 which i don’t think is horrible considering it will replace my previous two. I am excited to start using it. Thank you man put a lot of work in this one glad you liked it.
Is the counter shaft bearing supposed to be harder to spin? Or is it supposed to spin freely?
If its new it should spin freely
@@ononewheel7 thanks Josh! I’ll reorder the bearing
you have service manual to yfz 450r 2019?
Yes everything in this video is per the service manual.
Would you be able to tell me how to verify oil pressure/feed going to the top end on these? I just did a full rebuild and want to make sure as the oil pump looks a bit worn (new one ordered) should I just run it for a minute and check if the cams are soaked popping the cover off?
Remove the valve cover and pull the spark plug wire and turn it over and check for oil coming out on the top end
@ononewheel7 should there be alot coming out or just a dribble from the top? I'm not sure if my starter is spinning it fast enough to pump all the way up to the head.
It should be a decent stream of oil
@ononewheel7 I guess there's a check bolt on the backside of on the cylinder #8 bolt near the intake boot. Once started it streams out of there pretty good. Thank you again for your videos and replies. Thanks to you I feel like I know these motors in and out now😀
Also I trust you.
Thanks 😎
Hey brother, do you happen to have some gears laying around? I need a 3rd gear for my 2017 YFZ450R
I dont sorry
@@ononewheel7 thank you for replying back!
@@abimaeltorresvalle7185anytime man
What part of NY are you in
Im in Rhode Island
🤩🤩🤩🤩👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching
hello, I have a problem with yfz450r.
Currently I have sharp camshaft and an hc piston.
The engine has no strength to turn, there is too much compression.
Valve clearances are 0.20 exhaust and 0.10 intake
After blocking the decompressor, it turns the same, and he sees a defect in it.
Is it possible that the valve is not extending enough? how to adjust it and is it possible?
You need to double check your timing. You need to set top dead center on the compression stroke this is when the piston is traveling up when turning the engine over by hand counter clockwise. Your cams may be 180 degrees out of time. Check that and let me know.
@@ononewheel7 So here's how: I checked the timing three times and it's OK each time. Turning the engine with a socket wrench is no harder than in other engines. The problem occurs only when trying to start it with the starter - before the TDC it slows down a lot during the compression stroke and as soon as it passes it accelerates and then slows down again. One person suggested setting the valve clearances tighter (0.15 exhaust), (0.05 intake) and setting the decompression clearance, whatever that means.
@QuadGarageATV you can’t really know by turning it over by hand its normally hard as it builds compression. How old is the battery and starter? One or both could be weak. If you have a compression tester you could check compression. And the decompression spring is intact right. I run 14:1 compression and mine starts fine .
I don’t think changing valve clearances will change anything. If you go tighter it will make it harder to start. Looser won’t make too much of a difference except for some valve noise.
@@ononewheel7 Hi! I dealt with the problem of difficult starting and basically the inability to start. It turned out that the error was in the rollers made by the company. The decompressor pin did not extend as much as it should, I put a different exhaust shaft and everything returned to normal. The exhaust shaft went for repairs where they previously wanted money for supposedly adjusting the decompressor clearance lol! Thank you for your willingness to help, sorry for my English but I use a translator :)
How much hp???
Should be mid 50s hopefully i can get it dynoed in the summer
Yea it should be around there its a good setup