Kitchen Fitting Pt14, Worktop fitting, cutting the Mason Mitre
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- I'm fitting an off the shelf kitchen, making & spraying some doors to fit on, a few other jobs around the house & some preparation for the kitchen fit, This video is about cutting the Mason's mitre with a worktop jig & a router, using a 12.7mm ½" cutter & a 30mm collet template guide.
I don't make these videos to make money, I make them to share the tips I've learnt over 36yrs as a joiner, but filming, editing, exporting, reviewing & uploading does take a lot of time so if you have gained anything from any of videos & would like to help me out & donate pls click the PayPal link below, every little helps & will be much appreciated. Thankyou.
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So good! No blarney or ego, just clear, coherent information. Watched and absorbed while making nettle pasta!
Thanks Pamela 👍 glad you appreciate that, after watching other's vids with long intro & the person stood in front of the camera waffling about nothing interesting i decided my vids would be eyes on the job start to finish with as much info & thoughts i can share , no promotions & as little useless talk as poss 👍
Great video Gid !!! thanks
Never knew we can use a jigsaw upside-down like that. Thank you.
So pleased that I found you and I've spent 4 hours watching and learning. I am.self taught. I designed, cut and built my 2400 x 2300mm wardrobe 3 years ago. I taught myself furniture paint techniques using 10cm foam rollers and perfected it (not all rollers are made equally as good); The wardrobe with shaker doors and drawers, it was my biggest hand-made project.
Today, I am fitting my first kitchen and I feel even more confident after watching you.
I found you to be calm and inspiring and I thank you.
A beathe of fresh air you are. Too many on youtube are egotistic and fail to demonstrate fully.
Thank you. I will now subscribe. 🪓🪵🔨🪚
Did a good job of filming it on the fly. Very usefull tutorial
And nice job
Thanks, it's not easy filming & trying to work so i'm glad you enjoyed it & found it useful 😊👍
Excellent job
a big thank you from a beginner kitchen fitter
Thanks Sander, you're welcome 👍
Hi and thanks for thanking the time to make and upload your vid. I'm a sparky by trade, but having just bought a house requiring a full refurb, and that i have decided to take on majority of the work myself, I have really found your video useful.
Hi, sorry for the very late reply 🤦♂️😁 Thanks & you're more than welcome, I hope the house refurb went well I my videos were useful in the end 👍
Wow great video this how I was fitting kitchens years ago when I was learning 👍
Thanks 👍 Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Enjoying the series Gid!!!!
Good 👍
nearly finished with this never ending job 😂
Your vids are so helpful gid, hope you get chance to upload more in the future 👍🏻
Hi, thanks 👍 Yep i'll be back, 2020 has been a bit of a rubbish yr for all of us but back to filming & uploading in a little while 😉👍
Hello mate. You videos are excellent and I wanted to say thanks. I'm doing level two C and J and evening college at the rip old age of 43. 20 years in I.T and I hate it, hope to slowly move away from the corporate bullshit into something I enjoy. Your videos are straight forward and really enjoyable. Cheers mate
Thanks Willy 😁 yep , I hope it works out for you, I've been doing this since i left school, 35yrs ago but i commented with Peter Millard, he's only been doing this for 18yrs so he must have come into it late, It's never too late & life's too short to be doing something you hate . I hope my vids will be helpful to you 😉
Good for you. I'm ~20 years in IT and would love to get out. Can't pay the bills any other way for now, but hoping I might be able to build up some skills to semi-retire into in time.
I realise this video is before your got your DeWalt Router, but if that came with dust extraction cover etc it’s worth trying. I used mine to join a worktop a few weeks ago and was amazed how good a job it did. Not perfect, but amazingly better than without. Didn’t take too long to set up either and I just stuck an ordinary hoover on the end (since that’s what I’d be hoovering up afterwards with anyway).
This router is over 25yrs old, it's my old 110v that i used on site, if it had a dust extractor piece it's long gone, I use the extractor on the new Dewalt when i can.
I've been a carpenter now just over 31 years, mostly kitchen fitting. I hate work top day! Always end up with trouser pockets full of chipboard dust from using routers.. my Mrs moans like shit when I come home..
Bit like when I'm cutting in roofs in the summer and end up with sawdust in my socks
Ive been watching videos all weekend getting guidance and advice for a kitchen im doing monday ive been fitting council kitchens for years so never needed to mitre worktops but this video is by far the most informative video you have made my nerves ease cheers mate!
Good thanks 👍👍 the mitre, the angle bit in the corner is the important bit, not much different to mitring beading, the cut along the worktop itself is just a straight line, 😬😁
If u go backwards with the plunge saw it stops the chip on the laminated edge then go forwards again if u get me
Tip for you when cutting male and female joint in a worktop set up the worktop as usual and all clampdown do one pass with the router only this will show the finish 8.5 mm cut line in the top of the worktop next cut into the Post form edge of the worktop on the 8.5 mm line with your jigsaw till you get to the straight part of the line stop then you can use your Makita plunge saw the rest of the way along the worktop taking out all the excess material you are left with a little bit of the material left of the worktop which you then use the router to finish it off cutting the male and female joint in the worktops this way is so fast and easy it's unbelievable
I hope this little tip is useful for everyone take care and all the best
Nice work
I use the trend offset scribe so give the correct clearance for the collet.
But seen as you were cutting the worktop to length at the other end couldn’t you have just set the jig to the line.
Nice to see some one else who knows about using the opposite side of the jig guide slot for the initial cuts too you obviously know your job.
Hi, probably could have just gone to the line in this case, habit I guess working to the mark I made,
Not sure what you mean by the opposite side but letting the collet run along the guide in the jig then a final clean up cut makes for a better finishing cut if that is what you're referring to? 👍 Thanks
Gid joiner yes that’s it running the collet on the waste side of the jig then on the good side for a final pass that’s why the slot is slightly wider so I’m told
Yep thought that's what you meant, 👍
collcolin you've just taught me something! Thank you.
Great video I’m fitting my work tops this weekend any tips on that router bits to get have to make 6 cuts would u recommend trend bits ..?
Thanks 👍 I don't think the bits are that much different nowadays as far as initial sharpness, straightness & spin quality, I buy a new one for each job, some brands might stay sharper longer but I'd just buy Erbauer & consider it disposable at the end of the job. .To be honest I don't consider Trend as a Pro product or at the very least it isn't high in the list of Pro brands. A lot of my router cutters come from Axminster but as I'm forgetful or lazy I forget to order one, so I just end up going to Screwfix & buying the Erbauer one. If I wanted to spend a bit more I'd get a Freud one, www.axminstertools.com/axcaliber-kitchen-worktop-cutter-107254
Bless you gid, please wear a dust mask.
😷🤧😁👍
Good to see you back at kitchen job Gid. Good to hear your thought process on getting top installed before the mason mitre and allowing for not being exactly 90 degrees. Screws for that end panel Gid what size were they ? Guessing 30 mm size 4
Hi, I haven't been off that job 😆
did that drawing last Mon, Tues-Fri made those doors, I got primer finished Fri but went to do worktops Sat-Sun, I just put a couple of top coats on the back side of those doors today, Plumber tomorrow Tues, then here to put top coat on the doors Wed, electricians coming Thurs,
I've got grey edging strip to put on the cabinets, the oven unit back to remove n fix the oven in place & the fridge freezer, extractor to fix to the wall, screw the worktops down, sink to plumb back in, drawers to put back in, doors, end panels n plinths to fit, I haven't made n sprayed the cornice for the tall cupboard yet .....................It'll be done one day 😐
Yep 30mm x 4's 😉
You should always have a square on the female cut and adjust The mail cut for fit
Nope, or the radius on the corner doesn't match up
Correct
@@Gidjoiner That makes sense
That was really good, thank you. I've been reading other comments on why you cut the female joint out of square when necessary. I get that bit, but was wondering about the male cut, as you pointed out the pins don't allow you to pivot correctly. Could you set up, take out the pin nearest the cut, then tap the back of the jig over to your line before clamping it down? Or would this throw the joint out again? I have a jig with an adjustable fence especially for out of square joints and I think that's basically what it does, though I'm not keen on testing my theory on a new worktop!
Good n thanks, yes basically 👍 it doesn't pivot quite right, the nearest pin is too far back from the corner, ignore the long straight cuts on the top, they are just long straight cuts, so if you image you cut everything off except the round bit on the front of the top, (the first 50mm-ish in from the round edge), that then would be like a piece of quadrant beading, that inside corner is then just a mitre, the hardest bit is the curve from the mitre to the straight cut, the jig needs to pivot right on that inside corner of the mitre, Someone will tell me i'm wrong but if you mark the joint without any moving or pivoting using the pins, masking tape & a pencil at 90º, then mark the inside of the jig where the router runs at the corner point you can then take the pins out and eyeball it, measure the distance you pivot around at the far end of the straight cut so you can mirror it on the female cut, I know this sounds a bit like guess work but if you mark it & measure clearly & correctly, you'll be able to trust your measurements, remember whatever you pivot it by is half the amount for each cut, i use the 600mm roofing sq because it gives me a good idea of how much it's out of sq, if the square is off by 10mm at the end, i pivot the jig around & cut 5mm off each joint, the male & female, You've just got to try an image that cut, in my head it's a bit like a bent pair of clock hands that are exactly the same on top of each other pivoting in the centre, it doesn't matter if both hands are at 3pm or 8pm.. they'll match when on top of each other, it's that very inside corner that's important & both cuts pivot from there, .....the prob is though, because of the offset between collet & router cutter the router cuts about 9mm in from the edge of the jig, i would consider making a cut on scrap, then using a 9mm piece of wood to temp extend the inside of the jig to be able to mark the corner point, Set it up on scrap ply, like i say the long cuts are just straight so you could set it up using a piece 200mm-ish wide & as long as it needs to be to use the pins for the female cut, the curve n mitre is what you need, 👍👍👍 yeah always scary cutting into a new top🤸♂️ best of luck😁👍
@@Gidjoiner Thank you for the detailed reply and ideas. Tricky stuff!
"I am gonna have a cup of tea first" ))))))
☕👍😀
Great series so far! Also when ripping through the worktop with the plunge saw, what setting is the plunge saw set too? The red dial 1-5? I have makita plunge as well but yours seemed to piss through the worktop with ease. I’ve still got the makita blade on mine but it’s only had light use. Cheers gid
Hi, just had to go n have a look, I never change it, it's set at the max 6, 😄
I've had two Makita blades in this so far, they were OK, can't remember how they did cutting worktops, they lasted a while but tried this Freud blade n it seems OK, not sure if it gives such a clean cut, the teath are square cut, the Makita ones have a finer cut, they have every other tooth chamfered which helps with splintering the surface, don't know if that makes the difference to what you refer to,
Thanks 👍
I was just about to comment the same. I've got a DeWalt tracksaw and I literally cut a few mm a second. I'm sure i coukd push it through faster, but not as fast as in this vid. I'm trying to preserve blade in mine, but maybe I'm going slower than I need to.
@@andrewmason4004 been looking at the Makita efficut blade for laminates looks like it gets not bad reviews and the blade is quite thin
Really enjoying your videos Gid 🙏
If you were fitting a free-standing w/m between units, would you leave a gap either side to allow for the w/m to vibrate, and if so, how much? (This isn't a hypothetical, I'm doing my kitchen now [I've got concrete floors btw]). Also, would you put an end panel either side of it (assuming it won't throw out the alignment of the wall units with the base units) so that the plinth has something to run into other than the ugly white side of the w/m? Cheers!
Hi, Thanks 👍, Not the easiest to answer, if it was my kitchen n i had the machine & units i would test them in place to see how much the wm wobbled, 10mm either side maybe, depends how much your machine wobbles, sometimes the different loads in a machine can make it wobble more or less & a concrete floor will help reduce that, I remember fitting a kitchen with a 600mm gap for an inbuilt wm with a kitchen door on the front, it was a tight squeeze getting the machine in, you could leave a bit of a gap to allow the machine to wobble but is that just going to allow the machine to wobble n bang against the units, Free standing machines inevitably need to come in n out so they don't want to be squeezed in too tight & every manufacturer will make there machines slightly different size, eg - 597mm - 605mm 🤷♂️ so a little bit of leeway on the width of the gap for the machine is prob a good thing, Side panels i always discuss with my clients, sometimes it's cost, all these little extras can add to the final price, sometimes it's aesthetics, i personally don't mind the kick boards running up to the machine, i would however return the kickboards at least half the depth to the back leg, this covers any gap so you def can't see under the units either side & gives some stiffness to the front kickboard to stop it moving, Whatever you decide, try to seal any exposed wood around this area as it is a damp prone area, Sorry this is a bit vague, 👍👍
@@Gidjoiner that's actually really helpful Gid, thankyou for taking the time to write such a full answer (early on a Sunday morning! 😀) 🙏
great work mate.love your videos, very informative, and its great you are letting us in to your trade secrets, which is brilliant for us DIYers out there. i have learnt more from your videos than most on youtube, i found your channel by accident, and im glad i did.
can i ask you, when you painted the kitchen doors was it solvent based paints?
do you think you could get a similar finish with water based paints as my wife dont get on with the VOCs in the solvent paint. i see you had a gravity fed sprayer, what size compressor do you have? as i already said mate love your work and keep filming, love your work
kevin.
Hi, Yep that's the plan, some of the other vids on YT show next to nowt as far as teaching is concerned. In mine there's no long intro, no sponsors ads n I try to keep the bull down to a very bare minimum if there's any at all, I've been a joiner for 34yrs, worked for some good firms n now have 'stuff' to share, The best way i find to do that is simply show my work n try to describe why i do something in a certain way as i do it, often i have to get a job done with-in a time scale, within a budget & to an acceptable standard to get paid, I often take too long on a job tho because it deserves it,
The compressor is a 50ltr Bostitch machine & yes you can pretty much spray anything that you can dilute enough, it should give an even spray quality finish, I spray water based primer now n again, that's what went on the gate & i sprayed Farrow n Ball, that's water based but took way too long to dry so now i only use the colour-matched solvent based paints, There are water based spray paints, Vernites, i haven't used them but if you're interested the firm that supplies me would help you out, they're a good firm. Thanks kevin, you're welcome👍😊
symphonycoatings.co.uk/?v=79cba1185463
You’re making life so much harder than it needs to be! Cut your female true, when cutting the male, put the board on top of the female joint, mark the underside.
If it’s a RH female, measure 9mm back from your pencil line parallel to the joint and align your jig to that line.
If it’s a LH female, just transfer the measurement to the topside and do the same. You can’t go wrong! watching this video and seeing your methods is painful, you’d save yourself 30mins easily on a set of tops!!
Also while marking the male joint, you can’t mark the hob at the same time
But he’s saying that the corner of the joint will be slightly out depending on how much the wall is out I suppose
nice tips but where's your dust extraction matey your filling everything up with dust including yourself
He's old skool, he's filled with asbestos and all sorts of other nasties from years of being a grafter. Bit of dust aint going to bother him.
Does it make much difference if a 12mm bit is used?
How's she cutting bud hope all's well worktops can be a rite pain in the hole when your on your own and I wood say that heat don't make it any easier. The joys lol
And hard to beat goin to do a job and there's still dirty dishes in the sink drives me fuckin mad lol
Hi, yeah it's not getting easier, they're not getting lighter n I'm not getting younger, 50 this yr 😂
It's the coolest part of the house but still warm in there when there's heavy graft to do,
I'm trying not to get frustrated with the dishes etc.. I normally set a day to fit the worktops, if i get anything else done in that day then that's a good day but when things are out of sync like this, tidying, removing drawers .. just adds time 🤔
How can you scribe the side panel to the wall and the skirting board if you are then going to move the panel further down after you cut off the bottom? Why not cut off at the top of the side panel?
I forgot to film & say that i took a bit more off the top of the skirting scribe when i scribed it to the floor, but i wanted to get the panel scribed back against the wall first so i could scribe it down to very dodgy shaped very unlevel floor, if i hadn't & i had just cut the top as you suggest, the end panel would have had a wedge shaped gap at the bottom,
After scribing to floor ,did u have to cut more out of side to fit back over skirting?
Yep, I forgot at first when i scribed to the floor, thinking of filming instead of the job 😏
I adjusted the calipers minus the 10mm I'd added for the floor,
Hi gid can you reccomend a good set of scribers please got the trend one but think point of compass is more accurate for small deveations of wall
Hi, Yeah those trend ones with the flat point are no good for detail, sorry I've had many scribers over the yrs but none have been quite right, i can't remember what i use in this vid but the ones i end up using most of the time are Steadler comfort 551 compasses with the pencil attachment because you can accurately adjust with one hand & they don't alter if knocked or dropped, the ones i have i made a point with an old jigsaw blade, the problem with those tho is the adjustment thread sticks out both sides & can get in the way, i want a pair of compass/scribers with the threaded bit on one side, I did buy another pair that have nice thick arms but the adjustment knob is a bit weird & the pencil holder is on the wrong side 😒 i'm going to see if i can 'alter' those. a lot of the scribers are thin n skinny, i think I'd bend them when they got stood on or thrown in the van,
@@Gidjoiner cheers pal really helps looks like ill be putting them on xmas list to the mrs. I did my first mason mitre other day wasnt too bad just hard work moving them 3m worktops. Your videos are really helping i was meant to go college for carpentry but will be doing next year as didnt want to do it this year due to covid but picking up loads on youtube. Shame u wasnt at maker central last year would of said hello
Sorry gid, can you explain the maths on cutting the male worktop, I will be doing mine on the weekend, so I'll cut my female first ,then lay the male section on top and mark where I need to cut (my wall isn't square) and then was it 8mm back from the mark line you set you're jig?? I'm using the same size bit and collet
Hi, it's not easy to explain in writing but basically it's the mitre on the 2"-ish curved part at the front of the worktop that's important, , I wrote this a while ago on a previous comment -
Gid Joiner
• 1 month ago
The angle on this worktop was obtuse i think, only a little bit, cant remember without watching again, anything but 90º and these jigs using the setting pins are out a bit on post-formed tops because of the curved front edge, the mitre on the inside edge, where the curve is needs to bisect the angle of the two just like mitring an inside beading/skirting joint, (i scribe inside skirting joints 😉) hard explain but for this I decided to keep the male cut on the end of the long board at 90º & move the female in to suite, If the corner isn't 90º like this then it's prob better to spilt the difference & set the jig off a bit on each cut. Imagine the joint when the male & female are glued together, imagine being able to move those like a clock hand with them pivoting at the front corner where the two tops meet, the male & female will always be cut to the same shape because your following a jig but it's where/what position you want the cut/joint to be. Or imagine cutting off the front round edge of the tops so you've got like two pieces of quadrant beading, then cutting a mitre on the ends to go in the corner, if it was 90º these cuts would be 45º but it's not so the cuts need to be 46º or 47º or whatever to make a 90º+ corner, the rest of the cut is just a straight butt joint that can land anywhere,
The hardest thing about this is the jig doesn't pivot using the pins at the inside mitre point but a few inch away where the pin is so there's a little guess work involved, that why i cut one at 90º then adjusted the other to suit, this one was only a little out so any imperfection didn't show.
30mm template guide - 12mm cutter = 18mm ÷ 2 = 9mm, There's a bit of wobble in the cutter & some cutters are ½" which is 12.7mm so I opt to make it 8mm instead of 9mm.
Hi gid, on an out of square joint either closing in or opening up, you obviously scribe the male side to match female, but do you have to adjust the female side slightly? The trend instructions for my jig say just leave the female at 90' what's your thoughts on this?
Yep both male and female have to be adjusted or the curved part of the mitre doesn't fit well, the long part of the cut is just a straight cut it's the mitre in the corner, the 2" before it curves & the curve that's important, almost ignore the long straight cut, concentrate on the 2" in the corner & treat it like a normal mitre, if you were mitring beading in a corner @ 90º you'd cut the two pieces @ 45º 👍 if the corner wasn't 90º you'd alter the mitre saw & cut the two pieces @ the angle required, it's the same when you set the jig on the worktop, if that makes sense
@@Gidjoiner yeah totally understand what your saying, I suppose it's just experience knowing how far to angle the jig on the female cut, or is there any set measurements you could share
Nope sorry, hardest bit is the jig needs to pivot from the point of the mitre where the two boards meet on the front edge, prob is the dowels in the jig don't pivot from that point, so there's a little bit of guesswork there, i think in this i sat the boards in place n offered up a sq, then you divide the amount it's more than 90º & set each cut male/female back by that,
What’s the dust bag you have on your makita track saw mate? Can’t seem to find one available online for mine?
Hi, it prob just came with another machine, I use another i got with the Bosch 18v planer, it's the same as one i'd bought online for my 110v planer www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-2605411035-Dust-Bag-Planers/dp/B0014GSSOE/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/261-7077765-3323542?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0014GSSOE&pd_rd_r=e26781e9-2a14-4ab5-b891-e9a2226836a9&pd_rd_w=ZQRfg&pd_rd_wg=Wl8pl&pf_rd_p=2304238d-df78-4b25-a9a0-b27dc7bd722e&pf_rd_r=A89WJPHBD0GA7P5EWP8R&psc=1&refRID=A89WJPHBD0GA7P5EWP8R
@@Gidjoiner legend cheers mate!
Hi gid what are using to scribe the side panel please any specific brand
Hi, they're just a pair of scribers, not the best quality unfortunately that i need to replace, I've had a few different ones over the yrs, a compass would do, sorry can't really advise n no specific brand,
Do you cut upside down to prevent chipping?
Yep, also i can see the line better & the base of the jigsaw doesn't mark the face, BOSCH T144D blades are quite thick, you don't get much drift of the blade so easier to control
Hi. What kind of blade you use for biscuit joints
Hi, the one for this router I've had it for yrs so can't give the details, it's like this but mines ¼ shank,
www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-biscuit-jointing-cutter-952567
Where are your scribers from? Cheers Sam
Hi, sorry i can't remember I've had them a while , poss from here -
www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-square-leg-divider-compass-118472?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvezZBRDkARIsADKQyPlgl23xMeD-qZcT5Oxtx0xvV873llevaanOneBlxgVXX9NsREAsp-UaAuhWEALw_wcB
I not happy about the little locking thumb knob, It's a bit small, It might be my clumsy fingers but i live with them so not sure if I'd recommend them,
what kind of cutting for router do you used?
I think for this it was an Erbauer 12.7mm (½") x 50mm straight cutter i used, they seem like ok bits but i don't have a favourite brand
What router did you use in this vid?
I'm picking up a rp1801 tonight I think it's a similar model just with fixed speed. It's only being used for worktops.
Hi Gib have never used a biscuit bit with router,was wondering what depth you set the biscuits at.On a 40mm worktop would they be set at 20mm or is the depth different any help appreciated
Hi James, there's 3 sizes of biscuits, No 0, No 10 & No 20, there's a setting on the side of the biscuit machine, I only buy No 10 because they can be used with 18mm board from either/both sides without touching in the middle too much, they need a little trimming off but basically No 10 can be used for almost everything where as No 0 are a bit small & No 20 are a bit big 👍 www.toolstation.com/trend-jointing-biscuit/p22589 If you buy a biscuit router cutter it comes with 3 different sized bearings for the 3 sizes of biscuits www.toolstation.com/trend-biscuit-jointer-router-set/p24301
Wow what a great explained reply thanks M8
Where did you get your compose from?
The compass in this vid was rubbish, it felt nice & sturdy but was very hard to undo the knob & hard to fine tune/adjust, the bit that holds the pencil fell off in the end, My good old reliable compass came back out