Robert im a carpenter i had a accident i fell off the trusses 70 ft though the building and now im disabled broken my back watching you it gets me though the day take care gary
@@fidelcastro9579 the site we are on atm, the lads that do the skimming piss in the corner of the rooms, obviously can’t be assed to walk 40yards to the tardis so when we go to fit the kitchen it stinks of piss.
Hi, re floors under units . Always is a good rule of thumb as if you do get any water leaks they are apparent fairly quickly as apposed to creeping silently for weeks down under the flooring . I've been to trashed kitchens where the first sign of anything wrong was the smell, even with tiled floors if you don't cover the whole floor and something does go wrong you have a water feature moat under your units hidden by the plinth :p (retired bespoke fitter with 30yrs under his festools :) )
Welcom in the club of 150% is what my colleagues always say. I want everything to be as accurate as possible, then I'm satisfied. My colleagues always roll their eyes when they see me coming, but you get paid well for the job and then it has to be good as possible, right. Keep it up and greetings from a colleague from Germany.
That tip at 14:30 is awesome. So obvious in hindsight. I’ve had to drill holes previously and whilst you might get the first few with spot on, eventually, you get bored/cocky and rush it.
Isn't it great as you get older and more experienced, being able to concentrate on quality rather than struggling to overcome problems that could have been avoided with a little forward planning! Great video, I only wish I had access to this level of knowledge when I was an apprentice, you make it look easy, But what happened to all the cardboard packaging that kitchens come with? I swear that there's more packaging than kitchen from every supplier these days!?!!
this is a absolute master carpenter tradesman this should be used as training for young kitchen fitters / carpenters as standard training video across the trade.
When you fasten your lat to the wall then put the base units in and fasten them to the lat to create your void for services ect ,great idea ,but does this then stop you buying ready made worktops ? As they won't be wide enough ????
I’ll come and work with you, first tool - vacuum cleaner, spare proper bags and back up filters. On a job for a very high end client in London, no dust policy all the way! Great vids! Thanks! 😀
Appreciate the video uploads, really opens the eyes to the DIY er trying to save a few quid trying to do things without paying for skilled people. I did notice that the electrical accessories, sockets etc had masking tape round to probably protect from paint or builders work...i would suggest using MK Dimensions accessories. This kit comes with a clear temporary top plate allowing for painting and finishing off the space, but enable use of the socket during the build. Then popping off and fitting the final top plate of varying finish. Beauty of this is the if the home owner breaks the the top plate, but doesn't need and electrician to replace the complete socket just replace the top plate. Also allows a relatively easy change of face plate should the home owner want to change things without replacing the electrical socket. Yep long winded but hopefully can see the point I'm suggesting. Again great videos thanks I've learned alot benefitting from your experience.
A word of warning. The fitting of a batten behind base units only works for custom work surfaces. If you purchase a store / diy kitchen, your work surfaces will not allow for this.
This system is similar to the new IKEA u nits which register off a steel rail along the back which does make it very easy to ensure the worktops are level irrespective of the floor. I bet few floors are as true as Robin's- but he did say his client was a nightmare to work with!
I worked In the joinery shop at Sealine international for 10 years and we used Blum hinges & draw runners etc on all the furniture & I found them really good for the amount of adjustment you get on them.If your slightly off when you put a cupboard door on you can always tweak one of the screws. A couple of twiddles here and there and hey presto! 😁 still lovin the videos 😁😁
What program do you use to design your kitchens if you are sending all the spec to cutrights? Do you have to tell them all the pre drilling positions for your drawer runners?
I'd be interested to know this too... and if he uses a cam and dowel system, can you specify the material thickness and cabinet dimensions in the software and it automatically positions them? As that way it would save headaches when you accidentally miss specifying a hole and have to faff around drilling the cam and dowels by hand!
I second this.. would love to know the specifics of how you go about designing the carcass layout to send to cutwrights. Ive been wanting to use those guys for a while
You can use SketchUp or anything similar. If just ordering cutting and edging then you can do this online but if you need any CNC work you will need to email them drawings.
I believe Cutrights use a piece of software called Cabinet Vision an extremely powerfully program used by bespoke kitchen / bespoke cabinet manufacturing. It allows you to use cam systems like Raffix and automatically does all the placement of these based on pre set parameters. It then outputs the code straight to CNC ready files to cut the parts.
Here's a tutorial on SketchUp from a fitted furniture maker who used to use CabinetVision. ua-cam.com/video/beA6VuchBkU/v-deo.html It would be interesting to know what Cutwrights will accept.
Hi. Thanks for making the video. Im a self employed kitchen fitter in London and looking for more work, where and what would you recommend me to do? Thanks in advance
Great work Robin. Looks lovely. Your work in progress is 100x better than our finished kitchen 😂 I try to not be around if having any work done cos I’m too fussy - now I’ll stick around and say Robin wouldn’t put up with anything out by more than 1mm - nor any mess
Love Robin and his professionalism. A joy to watch. Makes me laugh when he says his floor is no more than 3mm out. No joke I have seen kitchen floors have a crown or run out by 50mm never mind 3mm. Some so called tradesmen don’t give one, and that’s been polite.
The mdf backboard...Is that 18mm mdf attached to 2"x1" batterns? Then giving a dab size of 26mm with 12mm board? Trying to figure out how you fixed mdf to wall and matched plaster board around it? And my 2nd question, If ordering off the shelf worktops, guessing can't fit cupboards to batterns as per video as won't have the overhang at front of each unit, is that right? Great video again, I'm nearly at this stage with my build. Thank you
0:26 almost 4 years of furniture installation/fitting , gotta say the floor was LEVEL 2 times .... Walls were a bit better with plum but some , we hat to shim the cabinets both on bottom or on top by 2-3 cm . Switched to electrical right now for about 5 months and gotta say, level is tossed around much loosely here haha , love it.
one of the worst jobs to get the kitchen SOMEWHAT level, was when in the old city center (Croatia) and the laminate flooring was installed on "boat floor" (that's direct translation) it's basically wooden beams that hold up the whole appartment. The whole kitchen would literally move as you walked around it , it was U shaped, with 2 parts of that U being not on the wall so the door's spacings would move as you walked by hahah. The wall section was good cause we anchored all of it to the wall.
I really enjoyed this video Robin, thanks. Have you used any suppliers other than Cutwrights & Blum for the kitchen? I would like to follow suit when I do our extension.
Hi Robin, Just fitted my own Kitchen last month and on my last few fiddly bits to finish off. Right at the end of your video, the draw you built is exactly what I've got.(Im guessing its a full size pull out door (500 or 600mm) where the draw comes out with it?) However, Im not sure how to fit the door on to the Draw! I have a base draw like yours, then above 3 internal draws which will be behind the door. Hope that makes sense! Any advice would be much appreciated or even kindly show how to do this in your next Kitchen build series :-)
Robin, on the subject of water possibly being present under the cupboards and potentially swelling up the plinths, I always use a plinth sealer strip from Hafele. Might not be the look your going for but it's a clear plastic trim with a gasket on the front, that keeps the bottom of the plinth out of direct contact with the floor and also contours to your floor level in case of any discrepencies in the levels ( not that you will have this issue ) it's works well for people who mop their floors and avoids direct contact with the raw edge.
Dave Rogers Firstly...I’m sure you can assume he knows what it is. Secondly..they are awful,they hold all the crap (and in my opinion)are a complete waste of time.They also make the installation look amateur. I’ve been a kitchen and bathroom fitter for over 20 years and the first place I would put those strips would be in the skip.
Robin, are these from cut rights again? Do need to supply them with all the pre-drilling info or do they have the mounting positions of all the Blum products?
hi Robin on another podcast you mentioned an excel spreadsheet you use for estimating and planning work - to save me reinventing the wheel any chance you could post a link to it please ?
Just finished my Kitchen. Sad that I forgot to add a Wine Fridge! Robin, do you have recommendations to share on supplies to fill out a Wine Fridge? ; )
Anstiss Limited exactly mate. Stainless sinks come with a tool to cut the hole and then some come with instructions to use a hammer and flat head to gently knock the hole through 😂 waste kits are shit as well I think
I haven't found this a problem. I bring all the stubs through the back or the base and it is then very easy to make the final connections inside the cupboard. With a little care you can keep most of the pipe work at the back of the cupboard leaving space for storage at the front.
Hi Richard,why did you refer to a flooring as “engineered” ? Is it the way it’s installed? Always on previous videos I’ve heard you say “mechanical fixing” what is this? Great upload by the way.
He is called robin. And engineered means that is a board/plank etc that is made up in a factory from many bits of wood (like plywood). Non engineered is as it comes from the tree. Mechanical fixing means a screw or nail not just a friction fit or free standing.
As an Electrician i was wondering about some of the sockets ... @ 7.10 you have switched sockets, for appliances i presume. They can be unswitched under the worktop with an Isolator above the worktop (which is a regulation, somewhere accessable within 2m of appliance) but i was also wondering when it comes to doing an Electrical test in 10 years time the poor guy doing it will struggle to get to those sockets. I wish all trades worked together better so that guys (and Gals) coming back later can work easily and not have to struggle because some other trade has made it impossible to get access just cos it made their life easy at the time. Anyway, enough of my pedantry. Im always impressed with the very high standard of workmanship and skil that you put into your work Robin. It shows you care and have pride in your craft. It keeps me watching. Look forward to seeing more. All the best.
peter puchalski Yes but when I do EICR’s I still take an r1&r2 reading from the socket and not the Isolator above the worktop, so wouldn’t make a difference to me. There’s not many limitations on my EICR’s.
But does the worktop protrude beyond the tall larder unit,, it's an absolute thing of mine,, everything has to have a shopfitting profile,, so no worktops sticking out beyond any cabinet it finishes to,, I can't stand to see that ❤️😉👍
Interesting idea, doesn't that mean the larder doors wouldn't be in line with the rest of the cabinets or would you just have no overhang on your worktop?
That's what I do. Level a structural base for all cabinets, then scribe and trim it out. After that, its a matter of setting the boxes and maybe just a very little shimming if at all.
Awesome insight into the correct way to approach a project, hope it inspires others to plan further than the next hole to be drilled. The fact you feel the need to justify clearing up immediately, and being picky about getting things just so, reveals one of the reasons the UK will be in shit order soon enough. That's not an "awkward client" that's the minimum standard any competent person should be demonstrating. The fact that there's cohorts of "trades" 🤠 prepared to cut corners and rip people off also goes some way to explain why there are so many diyers (and old horses learning new tricks) trying to benefit from Robin's and Roger's collective experience. A large proportion of the public have lost faith and trust. Unfortunately the good guys are not going to slow this race to the bottom but never stop trying please.👍 I can only assume anybody disliking this video must be feeling jealous and exposed in varying proportions. Funny we never their how-to videos.🤡
It’s a brilliant product and if one plank is damaged it’s easy to replace the one without damaging any surrounding there are also cheaper yet still highly quality products like fusion
Please Robin can you next time emphasise to the less experienced carpenters/joiners out there to never use impact drivers when assembling kitchen units...not everyone is as skilled as you mate 😁👍🏾. Thankyou
A lot of the newer impact drivers have precision settings where the impact function doesn't kick in. They are ideal for kitchen fitting and all kinds of delicate work. The trouble is that many builders set the impact drive at maximum speed and never see that it is suitable for these other jobs.
Excellent video.... I picked up a lot of useful insight. One question.... how are you securing your island to what I assume is a concrete floor under your wood flooring?
In the video I talk about how the island is formed and that I am using a floor covering that is not floating so I can fit the island on top of the floor covering, the island is not actually fixed down as it weighs about 300kg
I've just gone thru the same with a massive refurb here as you and your units + bin from another manufacturer. I did my mark-up the hard way though :-( But thanks for the tip - I'll prob be doing another 2 kitchens in the next few years in our 2 other accommodations.
Because of the empty kitchen it is difficult to understand everything you say, but could you please spell out the material that you used for the four corners of your Island......it sounded like Tricoya to me but I would much rather be sure.
Thank you for the very quick reply, now that I know how to spell the word I can investigate further as I have never heard of it before now, mind you, I am old school and nearly 68 years old so perhaps I need to catch up a bit....thanks for making and posting your videos and please keep them coming as they certainly brighten my day during these trying times.@@SkillBuilder
Instead of a temporary spacer for your washer space why not cut a bridge panel and either pocket hole or screw from both sides if you can This Will hold them in place and keep the space.
I remember the very first type of that soft close drawers I'm sure they were called innotech that's going back about 25 year's ago and they cost an arm and a leg about 120 for a pack of 3 which was more than I got paid in a week 🤦♂️🔨
Not much space between the open drawer and the units behind, Robin! Looks like the island should have been a bit further offshore. Also, I'm intrigued by the choice of name - Capel build - when it is your own ? I always appreciate the accuracy and skillful method mind; nothing anal about it.
Capel House is the name of the former manor house in which this house is now sited (also called Capel Manor House) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capel_Manor_House
I believe that hitachi/hikoki has a mode where it only drives in the screw by rotation, so no impacts 'destroying' the wood fibres. Makita and milwaukee have similar modes, although festool might have been first.
Great design but those twin sockets are way too high. Have fun plugging in a kettle or such. I don't know your upstand height but the sockets are way too high.
I've never installed one of those Knock Down cabinets assemblies...I've built dozens of kitchens too, I think it's less expensive to buy mill built cabinets, Labor wise; overall... Although this sounds like it's in Europe so maybe it's a specialty trade; cabinet building...
Sounds like its in Europe! Hahaha!! Its an English-speaking English man in England with an English accent, Europe doesn't have its own language! You joker hahaha
@@4D1989 Well, unlike you; I'm a bit more polite; in that; I noticed his accent was English; but I didn't automatically ASSUME that he was from Britain/U.K ...He could have been raised in India or the myriad of other ENGLISH enclaves around the world...Now piss off ya jabroni!
I was very shocked when Robin said his his kitchen makers worked to 0.1 of a mm and he worked to 1mm tolerance. I thought that all carpenters and joiners worked to spot on.
You should make a visit to the National Physics Laboratory where they will show you there is no such thing as 'spot on'. It is all about acceptable tolerances. Mind you that is not such a good name as yours.
Fuse protected Radial Circuits existed well before Rings were allowed. The ring was invented post WW2 because of the cost and shortage of copper. A ring run in 2.5m2 cable is usually protected with a 32amp fuse/MCB while the cable is only rated to a maximum draw of 24amps. Cost over safety should be discouraged.....Robin hasn't saved money on any items on his build..... why skimp on radials with no doubt vacant fuse ways in his consumer unit? Why they still get a mention in the 18th edition is maybe because of all the post war housing. Is there another country in the world that uses them?
I like Robin's style but on this I have to say I would complain if I came behind him years later to replace that flooring and found it ran under everything.
You’ve got the luxury of your house not being built by knuckle dragging, window licking, speed merchants who haven’t a clue what a ruler is used for. The success of your build started before the first sod was turned and will carry on until the day you and your family finally move out. Time and time again you prove why builders, carpenters, electricians, plumbers etc. should be properly qualified (by time and a successful demonstration of ability). That in turn should permit them to charge properly for their skill and ability. Society has to be shot of the ignoramuses of the type who work on student accommodation and HMO’s.
Blame the Government and House Builders for that Trevor, there is a few good chippis in the UK but it’s a needle in a haystack, reason being no one wants to pay for a good job unless you live down south working on high end stuff.
It's so much better working in a clean tidy kitchen, the work becomes a super standered Why can't trades understand clean up instead of just leave it for someone else to clean up dose my nut in cleaning up after trades lifting floorboards and the like rant over
Robert im a carpenter i had a accident i fell off the trusses 70 ft though the building and now im disabled broken my back watching you it gets me though the day take care gary
Hope your coping mate God bless you.
Bless your soul mate hope you're doing alright
You fell from 20 meters and survived? Were you falling on branches or something to "dampen" the fall ?
On the subject of cleaning up as you go. All for it, sawdust from chipboard on laminated flooring makes for a good skating rink!
With you on the vacuuming. Hate pulling kickboards and finding dust and debris left under units.
Great series.
regmac64 and cable offcuts, cigarette butts, sandwich wrapping and drinks bottles to name but a few. Bellway new builds in particular. 😡
@@fidelcastro9579 I always sprinkle Boric Acid. Looks like sugar but kills any insect (not that I'm expecting any) and is food safe.
@@fidelcastro9579 the site we are on atm, the lads that do the skimming piss in the corner of the rooms, obviously can’t be assed to walk 40yards to the tardis so when we go to fit the kitchen it stinks of piss.
@@OGfreed wow ....
Hi, re floors under units . Always is a good rule of thumb as if you do get any water leaks they are apparent fairly quickly as apposed to creeping silently for weeks down under the flooring . I've been to trashed kitchens where the first sign of anything wrong was the smell, even with tiled floors if you don't cover the whole floor and something does go wrong you have a water feature moat under your units hidden by the plinth :p (retired bespoke fitter with 30yrs under his festools :) )
Welcom in the club of 150% is what my colleagues always say.
I want everything to be as accurate as possible, then I'm satisfied. My colleagues always roll their eyes when they see me coming, but you get paid well for the job and then it has to be good as possible, right.
Keep it up and greetings from a colleague from Germany.
We are twins!!!
What a time to be carpenter hoovering up every second
That tip at 14:30 is awesome. So obvious in hindsight. I’ve had to drill holes previously and whilst you might get the first few with spot on, eventually, you get bored/cocky and rush it.
Isn't it great as you get older and more experienced, being able to concentrate on quality rather than struggling to overcome problems that could have been avoided with a little forward planning!
Great video, I only wish I had access to this level of knowledge when I was an apprentice, you make it look easy,
But what happened to all the cardboard packaging that kitchens come with? I swear that there's more packaging than kitchen from every supplier these days!?!!
this is a absolute master carpenter tradesman this should be used as training for young kitchen fitters / carpenters as standard training video across the trade.
OCD on the next level - I admire you’re passion!!
Regarding flooring running under the whole, what options do you have if you which to remove floor other than remove whole floor?
I Robert would you lay the laminate flooring before fitting a kitchen..cheers mate
When you fasten your lat to the wall then put the base units in and fasten them to the lat to create your void for services ect ,great idea ,but does this then stop you buying ready made worktops ? As they won't be wide enough ????
I’ll come and work with you, first tool - vacuum cleaner, spare proper bags and back up filters. On a job for a very high end client in London, no dust policy all the way! Great vids! Thanks! 😀
Appreciate the video uploads, really opens the eyes to the DIY er trying to save a few quid trying to do things without paying for skilled people.
I did notice that the electrical accessories, sockets etc had masking tape round to probably protect from paint or builders work...i would suggest using MK Dimensions accessories. This kit comes with a clear temporary top plate allowing for painting and finishing off the space, but enable use of the socket during the build. Then popping off and fitting the final top plate of varying finish. Beauty of this is the if the home owner breaks the the top plate, but doesn't need and electrician to replace the complete socket just replace the top plate. Also allows a relatively easy change of face plate should the home owner want to change things without replacing the electrical socket. Yep long winded but hopefully can see the point I'm suggesting. Again great videos thanks I've learned alot benefitting from your experience.
A word of warning. The fitting of a batten behind base units only works for custom work surfaces. If you purchase a store / diy kitchen, your work surfaces will not allow for this.
Plus the end panels might not fit in that tall boy 👍
You can notch the unit for the batten then you don’t loose any overhang.
his will work I think he accommodated for that. 500mm slides are not standard. usually 550 are standard so he shortened the box by one inch.
This system is similar to the new IKEA u nits which register off a steel rail along the back which does make it very easy to ensure the worktops are level irrespective of the floor. I bet few floors are as true as Robin's- but he did say his client was a nightmare to work with!
I found that out the hard way - breakfast bar work tops all the way round woohooo 😂😂😂😂
I worked In the joinery shop at Sealine international for 10 years and we used Blum hinges & draw runners etc on all the furniture & I found them really good for the amount of adjustment you get on them.If your slightly off when you put a cupboard door on you can always tweak one of the screws. A couple of twiddles here and there and hey presto! 😁 still lovin the videos 😁😁
After a while the hinges need some adjustment as the constant use does throw them off.
Thank you. Love that type of slider draw. I bought a home with them in each room. Wonderful.
A clean site is a happy site 👍😀👏
Robin, great tips and advice - thanks! I think I'd need to watch this about 20 times to suck it all in though!!
We sometimes put the dishwasher on a bit of worktop, or something similar to go over the finished floor level.
What program do you use to design your kitchens if you are sending all the spec to cutrights? Do you have to tell them all the pre drilling positions for your drawer runners?
I'd be interested to know this too... and if he uses a cam and dowel system, can you specify the material thickness and cabinet dimensions in the software and it automatically positions them? As that way it would save headaches when you accidentally miss specifying a hole and have to faff around drilling the cam and dowels by hand!
I second this.. would love to know the specifics of how you go about designing the carcass layout to send to cutwrights. Ive been wanting to use those guys for a while
You can use SketchUp or anything similar. If just ordering cutting and edging then you can do this online but if you need any CNC work you will need to email them drawings.
I believe Cutrights use a piece of software called Cabinet Vision an extremely powerfully program used by bespoke kitchen / bespoke cabinet manufacturing. It allows you to use cam systems like Raffix and automatically does all the placement of these based on pre set parameters. It then outputs the code straight to CNC ready files to cut the parts.
Here's a tutorial on SketchUp from a fitted furniture maker who used to use CabinetVision.
ua-cam.com/video/beA6VuchBkU/v-deo.html
It would be interesting to know what Cutwrights will accept.
What’s the batten along the wall for? Is it to make it easier to attach the units to instead of drilling in to the wall continuously?
Excellent work Robin ,get urself a set of saw horses and spare ur knees , can't wait to see what colour worktop you picked 😀
Lookin good. Looking forward to the next video. Good luck!
Hi. Thanks for making the video. Im a self employed kitchen fitter in London and looking for more work, where and what would you recommend me to do? Thanks in advance
definitely good shout on the no dust.. not healthy long term as well breathing in
Lovely job Robin!
Gorgeous looking kitchen, I'm secretly a massive joinery nerd too, love those Blum legraboxes.
Great work Robin. Looks lovely. Your work in progress is 100x better than our finished kitchen 😂 I try to not be around if having any work done cos I’m too fussy - now I’ll stick around and say Robin wouldn’t put up with anything out by more than 1mm - nor any mess
Why don’t you do it yourself then
Love Robin and his professionalism. A joy to watch. Makes me laugh when he says his floor is no more than 3mm out. No joke I have seen kitchen floors have a crown or run out by 50mm never mind 3mm. Some so called tradesmen don’t give one, and that’s been polite.
Hi Robin, great video as usual! keep up the work. Who is the supplier for your kitchen? thanks.
The mdf backboard...Is that 18mm mdf attached to 2"x1" batterns? Then giving a dab size of 26mm with 12mm board? Trying to figure out how you fixed mdf to wall and matched plaster board around it? And my 2nd question, If ordering off the shelf worktops, guessing can't fit cupboards to batterns as per video as won't have the overhang at front of each unit, is that right? Great video again, I'm nearly at this stage with my build. Thank you
Its all on another Video Rich
0:26 almost 4 years of furniture installation/fitting , gotta say the floor was LEVEL 2 times .... Walls were a bit better with plum but some , we hat to shim the cabinets both on bottom or on top by 2-3 cm . Switched to electrical right now for about 5 months and gotta say, level is tossed around much loosely here haha , love it.
one of the worst jobs to get the kitchen SOMEWHAT level, was when in the old city center (Croatia) and the laminate flooring was installed on "boat floor" (that's direct translation) it's basically wooden beams that hold up the whole appartment. The whole kitchen would literally move as you walked around it , it was U shaped, with 2 parts of that U being not on the wall so the door's spacings would move as you walked by hahah. The wall section was good cause we anchored all of it to the wall.
I admire you’re passion
I always put a couple of pocket holes under each draw bottom on anything wider than 600 especially when a Center pull handle in being used
Working on a Finnish floor is lovely, try fitting on an Irish one. It’s like a field of Taytos. 🥔
In Finland on this job was he?
Can you send a link to the Antinox floor protector. Is it sheets or on a roll ?
I really enjoyed this video Robin, thanks. Have you used any suppliers other than Cutwrights & Blum for the kitchen? I would like to follow suit when I do our extension.
Hi Robin,
Just fitted my own Kitchen last month and on my last few fiddly bits to finish off.
Right at the end of your video, the draw you built is exactly what I've got.(Im guessing its a full size pull out door (500 or 600mm) where the draw comes out with it?) However, Im not sure how to fit the door on to the Draw! I have a base draw like yours, then above 3 internal draws which will be behind the door. Hope that makes sense! Any advice would be much appreciated or even kindly show how to do this in your next Kitchen build series :-)
Robin, on the subject of water possibly being present under the cupboards and potentially swelling up the plinths, I always use a plinth sealer strip from Hafele. Might not be the look your going for but it's a clear plastic trim with a gasket on the front, that keeps the bottom of the plinth out of direct contact with the floor and also contours to your floor level in case of any discrepencies in the levels ( not that you will have this issue ) it's works well for people who mop their floors and avoids direct contact with the raw edge.
Dave Rogers
Firstly...I’m sure you can assume he knows what it is.
Secondly..they are awful,they hold all the crap (and in my opinion)are a complete waste of time.They also make the installation look amateur.
I’ve been a kitchen and bathroom fitter for over 20 years and the first place I would put those strips would be in the skip.
Great video lads, your doing a fantastic job Robbin
Robin, are these from cut rights again? Do need to supply them with all the pre-drilling info or do they have the mounting positions of all the Blum products?
hi Robin on another podcast you mentioned an excel spreadsheet you use for estimating and planning work - to save me reinventing the wheel any chance you could post a link to it please ?
Amazing skill.
Just finished my Kitchen. Sad that I forgot to add a Wine Fridge! Robin, do you have recommendations to share on supplies to fill out a Wine Fridge? ; )
I just love this guy
It would be good to see how you install integrated appliances get fitted.
I’ve been asked to do the plumbing on a few Ikea kitchens lately... no void space behind units. End up spending the day on site re routing pipes etc.
When asked to fit IKEA the price goes up 😂.
I hate them with a passion so many things that just are unique to them.
re-routing them where?
Anstiss Limited exactly mate. Stainless sinks come with a tool to cut the hole and then some come with instructions to use a hammer and flat head to gently knock the hole through 😂 waste kits are shit as well I think
lame duck normally have to re route them all under the units which is a pain when you have hot , cold , flow , return and a condense pipe there
I haven't found this a problem. I bring all the stubs through the back or the base and it is then very easy to make the final connections inside the cupboard. With a little care you can keep most of the pipe work at the back of the cupboard leaving space for storage at the front.
Hi Richard,why did you refer to a flooring as “engineered” ? Is it the way it’s installed? Always on previous videos I’ve heard you say “mechanical fixing” what is this? Great upload by the way.
He is called robin.
And engineered means that is a board/plank etc that is made up in a factory from many bits of wood (like plywood).
Non engineered is as it comes from the tree.
Mechanical fixing means a screw or nail not just a friction fit or free standing.
Is the karndean flooring in the background a herringbone or chevron design and what size planks have been used?
Thank you
Recognizable, kitchen and wooden floors
Full of knowledge!
As an Electrician i was wondering about some of the sockets ... @ 7.10 you have switched sockets, for appliances i presume. They can be unswitched under the worktop with an Isolator above the worktop (which is a regulation, somewhere accessable within 2m of appliance) but i was also wondering when it comes to doing an Electrical test in 10 years time the poor guy doing it will struggle to get to those sockets. I wish all trades worked together better so that guys (and Gals) coming back later can work easily and not have to struggle because some other trade has made it impossible to get access just cos it made their life easy at the time.
Anyway, enough of my pedantry. Im always impressed with the very high standard of workmanship and skil that you put into your work Robin. It shows you care and have pride in your craft. It keeps me watching. Look forward to seeing more. All the best.
peter puchalski Yes but when I do EICR’s I still take an r1&r2 reading from the socket and not the Isolator above the worktop, so wouldn’t make a difference to me. There’s not many limitations on my EICR’s.
But does the worktop protrude beyond the tall larder unit,, it's an absolute thing of mine,, everything has to have a shopfitting profile,, so no worktops sticking out beyond any cabinet it finishes to,, I can't stand to see that ❤️😉👍
Interesting idea, doesn't that mean the larder doors wouldn't be in line with the rest of the cabinets or would you just have no overhang on your worktop?
Good tips as usual! Thanks. What is the name of the material used for the feet at 10:00 please? I could not hear the name.
Tricoya
what heights are your sockets we normally do them at 1150 centre for a kitchen from floor level they look high
High sockets won't get obstructed by the bits of kit you are plugging into them.
Have you considered using a common base (full length, toe kick height, framed separately/level and set first)?
Most of the time/trouble disappear...
That's what I do. Level a structural base for all cabinets, then scribe and trim it out. After that, its a matter of setting the boxes and maybe just a very little shimming if at all.
Awesome insight into the correct way to approach a project, hope it inspires others to plan further than the next hole to be drilled.
The fact you feel the need to justify clearing up immediately, and being picky about getting things just so, reveals one of the reasons the UK will be in shit order soon enough. That's not an "awkward client" that's the minimum standard any competent person should be demonstrating.
The fact that there's cohorts of "trades" 🤠 prepared to cut corners and rip people off also goes some way to explain why there are so many diyers (and old horses learning new tricks) trying to benefit from Robin's and Roger's collective experience. A large proportion of the public have lost faith and trust. Unfortunately the good guys are not going to slow this race to the bottom but never stop trying please.👍
I can only assume anybody disliking this video must be feeling jealous and exposed in varying proportions. Funny we never their how-to videos.🤡
Thank you kindly for your comment
Amazing job- Saludos from Chile !!!
Why did you choose kardeen (sp??) as opposed to porcelain tiles? Was it an aesthetic consideration or practical?
Think he addressed that question in his karndeen flooring video!
It’s a brilliant product and if one plank is damaged it’s easy to replace the one without damaging any surrounding there are also cheaper yet still highly quality products like fusion
It’s also used a lot in commercial environments and takes lots of foot traffic without showing it.
I think it’s fair to say this fella got a few quid rightly so never seen guy like him
Where can the kitchen be obtained from?
Lovely. Are they walnut carcasses?
Who’s your carcass supplier
On draw runners rather than using a scrap piece they do a jig for less than £50 which does draw runners and hinges
Please Robin can you next time emphasise to the less experienced carpenters/joiners out there to never use impact drivers when assembling kitchen units...not everyone is as skilled as you mate 😁👍🏾. Thankyou
A lot of the newer impact drivers have precision settings where the impact function doesn't kick in. They are ideal for kitchen fitting and all kinds of delicate work. The trouble is that many builders set the impact drive at maximum speed and never see that it is suitable for these other jobs.
@@SkillBuilder No. Just in future use a combi with the clutch set accordingly please. Thankyou
Excellent video.... I picked up a lot of useful insight. One question.... how are you securing your island to what I assume is a concrete floor under your wood flooring?
In the video I talk about how the island is formed and that I am using a floor covering that is not floating so I can fit the island on top of the floor covering, the island is not actually fixed down as it weighs about 300kg
Customer pays you- working from a customer perspective is best regarding clean as you go as well as the HVAC aspect.
very nice. but u need to glue the cabinets together for lifetime strength
I've just gone thru the same with a massive refurb here as you and your units + bin from another manufacturer. I did my mark-up the hard way though :-( But thanks for the tip - I'll prob be doing another 2 kitchens in the next few years in our 2 other accommodations.
Roger get this man a few bacon sandwiches, all this works making him disappear
Agree Robin is looking a bit thin !
Brilliant.
No capillary motion is the expression,, for the totally waterproof breakfast bar feet, leading to the mdf😉
Perfect mate perfect
Because of the empty kitchen it is difficult to understand everything you say, but could you please spell out the material that you used for the four corners of your Island......it sounded like Tricoya to me but I would much rather be sure.
yes it is Tricoya from Medite
Thank you for the very quick reply, now that I know how to spell the word I can investigate further as I have never heard of it before now, mind you, I am old school and nearly 68 years old so perhaps I need to catch up a bit....thanks for making and posting your videos and please keep them coming as they certainly brighten my day during these trying times.@@SkillBuilder
Instead of a temporary spacer for your washer space why not cut a bridge panel and either pocket hole or screw from both sides if you can This Will hold them in place and keep the space.
I remember the very first type of that soft close drawers I'm sure they were called innotech that's going back about 25 year's ago and they cost an arm and a leg about 120 for a pack of 3 which was more than I got paid in a week 🤦♂️🔨
Not much space between the open drawer and the units behind, Robin!
Looks like the island should have been a bit further offshore.
Also, I'm intrigued by the choice of name - Capel build - when it is your own ?
I always appreciate the accuracy and skillful method mind; nothing anal about it.
Capel is the area
What's the alternative...'Robins new house build'. Catchy.
Capel House is the name of the former manor house in which this house is now sited (also called Capel Manor House) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capel_Manor_House
Impact drills are far to powerful for kitchens. Use the little festool drill it’s perfect for kitchens.
I believe that hitachi/hikoki has a mode where it only drives in the screw by rotation, so no impacts 'destroying' the wood fibres. Makita and milwaukee have similar modes, although festool might have been first.
The festool drill is very very light and small with right angle attachments aswel. That’s why I would recommend that drill for kitchens.
jp k however there is certain jobs I find it struggles with such as integrated dish washer doors or fixing into wall /stud impact is handy to have
Great design but those twin sockets are way too high. Have fun plugging in a kettle or such. I don't know your upstand height but the sockets are way too high.
More of this.
There is more on its way
What was the name of the draw boxes, Robin?
Legrabox by Blum :)
You’ve been to Aldi I see robin
Is that the finished floor😱
I've never installed one of those Knock Down cabinets assemblies...I've built dozens of kitchens too, I think it's less expensive to buy mill built cabinets, Labor wise; overall... Although this sounds like it's in Europe so maybe it's a specialty trade; cabinet building...
Sounds like its in Europe! Hahaha!!
Its an English-speaking English man in England with an English accent, Europe doesn't have its own language! You joker hahaha
@@4D1989 Well, unlike you; I'm a bit more polite; in that; I noticed his accent was English; but I didn't automatically ASSUME that he was from Britain/U.K ...He could have been raised in India or the myriad of other ENGLISH enclaves around the world...Now piss off ya jabroni!
ROB-IN-PHILLY How’s the colony doing?.....don’t forget your roots mate...we have toilets older than your history
I was very shocked when Robin said his his kitchen makers worked to 0.1 of a mm and he worked to 1mm tolerance. I thought that all carpenters and joiners worked to spot on.
spotoncarpentry is this an advertisement for spot on carpentry?
You should make a visit to the National Physics Laboratory where they will show you there is no such thing as 'spot on'.
It is all about acceptable tolerances. Mind you that is not such a good name as yours.
Spotoncarpentry.
Id say you are fine at roughwork and rough at finework.
What width is that kitchen
What's a datum?
Feeling totally inadequate !
Neil Rafferty I know what you mean and I’ve been building for 20yrs!
A ring circuit in a new build kitchen..?
What's the alternative? We know you're dying to tell us.
radial circuits are the modern fad but they aren't better.
Fuse protected Radial Circuits existed well before Rings were allowed. The ring was invented post WW2 because of the cost and shortage of copper. A ring run in 2.5m2 cable is usually protected with a 32amp fuse/MCB while the cable is only rated to a maximum draw of 24amps. Cost over safety should be discouraged.....Robin hasn't saved money on any items on his build..... why skimp on radials with no doubt vacant fuse ways in his consumer unit? Why they still get a mention in the 18th edition is maybe because of all the post war housing. Is there another country in the world that uses them?
Socket height is a bit questionable 🤔
I like Robin's style but on this I have to say I would complain if I came behind him years later to replace that flooring and found it ran under everything.
You’ve got the luxury of your house not being built by knuckle dragging, window licking, speed merchants who haven’t a clue what a ruler is used for. The success of your build started before the first sod was turned and will carry on until the day you and your family finally move out. Time and time again you prove why builders, carpenters, electricians, plumbers etc. should be properly qualified (by time and a successful demonstration of ability). That in turn should permit them to charge properly for their skill and ability. Society has to be shot of the ignoramuses of the type who work on student accommodation and HMO’s.
Blame the Government and House Builders for that Trevor, there is a few good chippis in the UK but it’s a needle in a haystack, reason being no one wants to pay for a good job unless you live down south working on high end stuff.
I think your biggest problem is that you do everything perfectly
Your a good chippy and so am I and I like your vid but a few things ain’t right
Hi Patrick, is that an example of a chippy Haiku ?
honey i shrunk the kitchen
I’m fitting my kitchen and there isn’t a flat wall or a level floor and even the ceiling isn’t level.
Don’t make any soup or gravy mate ! 🤣🤣
Imagine actually disliking this video 🤷🏻
It's so much better working in a clean tidy kitchen, the work becomes a super standered Why can't trades understand clean up instead of just leave it for someone else to clean up dose my nut in cleaning up after trades lifting floorboards and the like rant over
Well said