We started using this design back in the early 2000's when the gallon feeders really became available on the market at a decent price. We've made thousands of nucs using this method.
Do you have any trouble with water getting in on the long sides? I always have to put 4 strips on all edges of the lid, or water always gets in if they don't seal it all. I use nuc boxes as swarm traps too, which doesn't help for them being empty and no seals being built.
A cut list would be great in the information. Thanks so much Jeff! I'm going to try this design. I've got a couple of frame feeders that I'm not using and it's awesome to get to use them in a nuc colony that needs extra feed.
Bee space is 5/16" of an inch more or less. If the space is less then 1/4" bees will propolize it. If it is more then 3/8" he will get burr comb. My critique of the nuc would be the gaps of the square frame rest. It looks like an easy place for SHB to hide or wax moths to lay. But all in all I like it. I don't like that I need to pull two frames when I put 1 gallon feeders in my d. coates nuc boxes. I think the frame feeder is superior to the mason jar on the top which always seems to leak and draws ants. Thanks for sharing your design.
All, Something to consider if we go off dimension. Please read. Traditional hive parts are made from wood. The design and dimension of hive parts are based on the concept of bee space. Bee space was first recognized and promoted by the Philadelphia minister Lorenzo Langstroth in 1851, when he introduced what is commonly known as the Langstroth hive. He discovered that bees build excess comb in a space larger than 3/8 inch. Bees will fill any space less than 1/4 inch with propolis. Therefore, a space between 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch is in a range of acceptable bee space, with 5/16 inch an average that is most acceptable by beekeepers. A Langstroth hive would have a 5/16- or 3/8-inch space separating each frame and the frames from all other hive parts. -John Skinner, University of Tennessee
Jeff seen your video liked it enough to go out and build one, got tung oil on it and will order the frames and feeder Monday. Do they winter good in it? Thanks
Like the design but couple of comments - the cracks around the frame rest will be a great place for small hive beetles (bad around here) and need 3/4" tall entrance to allow for mite treatment (vaporized oxalic acid). Will use this design for swam traps with the flat sides but no entrance opening - drill 1-1/2 hole. Thanks
Was getting ready to build some and noted there will be about a 2" space from the bottom board to bottom of frames. Am I missing something? That's just to much space which they will fill with burr comb just to get up to the frame.
CoyoteLight Thanks for your reply and for sharing this. Really like this design and will be making 4 tomorrow. Appreciate your help and information. THANKS..
Stick 3 of these side by side,all touching . Now put ten frame Queen Excluders on top splitting box on middle Nuc,add two ten frame boxes side by side on top,now these probably work to make honey also like 6 frame nucs will
go eith the coates nuc design on beesource. if u have space under the frame rests they will build brood comb on the side of the frames under it. making it kind of a bummer pulling frames out....i know from experience.
We started using this design back in the early 2000's when the gallon feeders really became available on the market at a decent price. We've made thousands of nucs using this method.
Thanks - like this design a lot. The feeder inside will help a robbing problem a lot. Going to make some of these and try this out.
Do you have any trouble with water getting in on the long sides? I always have to put 4 strips on all edges of the lid, or water always gets in if they don't seal it all. I use nuc boxes as swarm traps too, which doesn't help for them being empty and no seals being built.
A cut list would be great in the information. Thanks so much Jeff! I'm going to try this design. I've got a couple of frame feeders that I'm not using and it's awesome to get to use them in a nuc colony that needs extra feed.
Thanks Jef! Very good Nucleus!
Bee space is 5/16" of an inch more or less. If the space is less then 1/4" bees will propolize it. If it is more then 3/8" he will get burr comb. My critique of the nuc would be the gaps of the square frame rest. It looks like an easy place for SHB to hide or wax moths to lay. But all in all I like it. I don't like that I need to pull two frames when I put 1 gallon feeders in my d. coates nuc boxes. I think the frame feeder is superior to the mason jar on the top which always seems to leak and draws ants. Thanks for sharing your design.
Can we use to start bee keeping in these type of small hives
All, Something to consider if we go off dimension. Please read.
Traditional hive parts are made from wood. The design and dimension of hive parts are based on the concept of bee space. Bee space was first recognized and promoted by the Philadelphia minister Lorenzo Langstroth in 1851, when he introduced what is commonly known as the Langstroth hive. He discovered that bees build excess comb in a space larger than 3/8 inch. Bees will fill any space less than 1/4 inch with propolis. Therefore, a space between 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch is in a range of acceptable bee space, with 5/16 inch an average that is most acceptable by beekeepers. A Langstroth hive would have a 5/16- or 3/8-inch space separating each frame and the frames from all other hive parts. -John Skinner, University of Tennessee
That was wonderful!! Thanks ad
Jeff seen your video liked it enough to go out and build one, got tung oil on it and will order the frames and feeder Monday.
Do they winter good in it?
Thanks
Like the design but couple of comments - the cracks around the frame rest will be a great place for small hive beetles (bad around here) and need 3/4" tall entrance to allow for mite treatment (vaporized oxalic acid). Will use this design for swam traps with the flat sides but no entrance opening - drill 1-1/2 hole. Thanks
going to build one today thanks for the video
nice design I made one and It is nice
thanks
Was getting ready to build some and noted there will be about a 2" space from the bottom board to bottom of frames. Am I missing something? That's just to much space which they will fill with burr comb just to get up to the frame.
CoyoteLight Thanks for your reply and for sharing this. Really like this design and will be making 4 tomorrow. Appreciate your help and information. THANKS..
Stick 3 of these side by side,all touching . Now put ten frame Queen Excluders on top splitting box on middle Nuc,add two ten frame boxes side by side on top,now these probably work to make honey also like 6 frame nucs will
did you do your own frame feeder?if so,how?
tks
go eith the coates nuc design on beesource. if u have space under the frame rests they will build brood comb on the side of the frames under it. making it kind of a bummer pulling frames out....i know from experience.
did you us the 805 or 505 feeder from Mann Lake
that's really nice .
cut the frame rest to fit tight if you build one of these. it will make a rabbit joint that way and the box will last forever
where can I order the frames for this nuk and the 1 gallon feeder and also what size are they thank,s
The frames are standard deep frames. Both the frames and the feeder may be purchased at www.MannLakeLtd.com
Do use a vent hole?
Thanks for the vid. liked it but you need an entrance reducer and ventilation.
Thanks. In later versions I've cut hole in the bottom and screened it for ventilation.
D how many seasons did these boxes end up getting through
Great video good idea
I like it
Is this Langstroth?
Why is it call "Bread and Butter Nuc" ?
Your dog is beautiful by chance is it a Swiss mountain dog?
Yup. Good eye!
stay on track Mark. Bees...bees...bees. :)
what do you sell them for
We don't sell them. Use them for our own apiary. They cost about $20 in materials.
Using a Rabbit Joint is easy and provides much more durability and strength in the long run.
Wthe frames?hat is that beside of
HUH???