Very nice job. I've been a machinist since 1973, and I am impressed how well you translated your actions. It is quite hard to show someone how machinists do quick fixes On-The-Fly. Some of your viewers seem to think it's a natural thing and why don't you just say "blah blah", but I don't see thier version on UA-cam. Very few people understand what it takes to get a point across. Pun not intended.
Really superb tutorial by old school guy that knows his stuff. As a carpenter for 43 years I have learned to sharpen all manner of tools, all by hand and eye. This guy is spot on about using your hands and eyes as guides. Gimmick sharpening devices are actually detrimental to developing 'feel' so necessary for sharpening. Great vid. Thumb WAY up.
my father was a master tool & die maker .....he taught me how to sharpen drill bits in the shop at 16 years old much the same technique as you are doing now........he started his apprenticeship at age 14 and worked until age 65 at a machine shop then taught at trades school until he was 74 and his eyesight was not so good ......he was so skilled he never had to use the measuring tools himself to check the angles or lengths when sharpening bits or tools ......the other tradesmen used to call him Peter Perfect ........great video !
+Wilbert Michielsen With lots of experience it can be done "bye eye" and be close. Especially on little drills. Personally it is harder for me to do larger ones or tiny ones that way. Plus keeping in mind if you want to go deep improper sharpening can have problems and some probs on diam. even with thin material. It only takes a second to use a protractor n scale or even dial caliper. I throw away babies like up to1/8 or so with the time vs cost and quote for the job in mind plus with a replacement supply of course.
I've been a machinist for 40 + years....I don't do everything exactly as Tom does.......but what he is showing you.....will certainly work. Watch, listen and learn. This man does know what he is talking about.
Dear Tom, I need to add to my previous comment. You have not only saved me loads of money (that I don't have) you have saved my sanity. I have been struggling with blunt drills for about 25 years. I was very good at making real hard work out of drilling into steel, until now. I stopped trying to sharpen the drills, because I only made them worse. You explained it so well I found it easy, at long last. Instead of dreading the thought of drilling into steel, I can't wait to do some more.Thanks for kindly sharing your wisdom. Janette
Once you get the hang of it, it's kind of fun sharpening them and as you say, you also save a lot of money doing it. Glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out my website, tomstechniques.com. Tom
THAT"S what I like to hear Tom! The whole point of making these videos is to hear that someone actually got their hands dirty, applied some of this stuff and learned something while doing it. Good job. Tom
I've sharpened my own drills by eye for at least 20 years now and they work 'ok' I've just resharpened one of my drills using this method and oh my, what a difference, they cut better now than my shop bought drills, I have a lot of drills to resharpen now. Thank you for posting this, I only wish I'd seen it 9 years ago 😊
Have a stockpile of old dull bits in my basement. Just tried this and right off the bat the first bit drills through steel like butter! Thanks for saving me hundreds of dollars worth of old bits!!! Couldnt have been easier!
Tom im a machinist well over 30years that was a perfect demo. faster then some mechanical grinders ive used which can burn the edge an soften it, i know used them for drills waste unless your in the business and have lots of resharps of the same sizes to do.
The ammount of videos there are on UA-cam telling you how to make jigs to re-grind drill bits is unbelievable. I feel obliged to sit there and write "you don't need a jig!........" Well done that man for showing people how easy and quick it is to sharpen a drill bit, just by hand on the wheel.Apart from the fact that I tend to rock the bit to get a continuous clearance ramp, not just a flat angle, That's EXACTLY how I do it.
It's a great technic no argument there and a very nice tutorial👍 but, I built a very simple drill bit sharpening jig, and boy it made my life easier the design is so simple, I have the tutorial in my channel if anyone intrested
Thanks Tom, I have a drill doctor and got pissed off at it because the grinding wheel wears out so quick so I looked up sharpening a drill bit on youtube and after watching a few good ones I found yours to be the cats ass thanks I was drinking some wine and watching this and had to go to the bench grinder right away to play. I promise I will get good at this because of good people like you sharing your trade
I got taught when I was an apprentice mechanic 50 years ago. My boss taught me to slightly roll the drill bit from the cutting edge, the main thing is practice. I can still do it today, keep at it.
Conical clearance will work fine (that's the way I learned as well), but faceted clearance angles are a bit easier to grind and generate less heat. Thanks for watching.
It's good to hear that the trades are still being taught in high school. It's definitely not as common as it was when I was teaching in the 70's. I'm glad you liked the video.
very good....what i use to get the angel instead of a protractor is 2 hex nuts pushed together..you push the tip of the bit between them ...it also gives you a guide if you have got both sides the same as the 2 nuts will sit wonky if you have not,,so no need to use a ruler
Excellent instructions! Went through my entire working career as a motor mechanic and never sharpened a drill bit properly till now. Had a great afternoon sharpening about 20 dull bits after viewing your video. Cheers
Hello. I just found your Channel. I been machining for over 20 years as a trade. Of the videos I personally have seen on how to sharpen a drill, you Sir, are at the top of that list. Excellent work.
Thanks for the great instructional video Tom , you just saved me 100.00+ as I was thinking about purchasing a bit sharpener. I have never had the opportunity to see anyone sharpen a drill bit , you just saved me a lot of $ and taught me a very valued skill to have. For that Sir I thank you , just found your channel . I am now a subscriber !
Many thanks , as a 65 year old, ive never been able to sharpen a drill bit, after watching your video ive just been in the workshop and in under a hour ive back to life a box full of bits that I'd saved for a rainy day!!! Many thanks again and best regards, Andy
@@TomsTechniques Hi Tom, thanks for the reply, I never really had an engineering background, though my 20!s and up to 40 I was a coal miner, at 40 the coal mine closed and I went into the diving trade until a major injury I received whilst coal mining took its toll, nowadays ive found a passion in making stuff from metal and wood. Your video has been to me the answer of black magic art !!! Thanks again and best regards always, Andy
Im in a trade school for half of my day every day in high school. Im learning to become a metal machinist, so I watched this video to try and get a head start in my class. Thanks for the video, it definately gives me a good idea of what I'll be doing
Nice work Tom my grandfather taught me this same technique I have over 300 bits some of his and mine and its nice to have bits to get the job done right! Glad to see people teaching good technique and by hand which works better. Anyone can go buy a machine to sharpen bits, my wife got me a craftsman and what a piece of JUNK!!! Hand sharp all the way!!
I recently taught myself how to do this as I got tired of having to get new drill bits all the time. I was surprised at how easy it is to sharpen a drill bit successfully. As Tom has illustrated here, the critical thing is to pay attention to the angles and keep them consistent. This is an excellent video!
Perfection in motion, skilled craftsmanship, not forced just fluid from years of experience these are the things that are slowly disappearing, thank the lord for UA-cam and thank you sir for sharing..
THANK YOU FOR THIS, you make it look so easy, and then you tell us the trick, keep hold of the drill, turn it over while keeping the same grip and you can put it back again, simple but genius.
This is exactly how I've been doing it for 40 years. Self taught, my Dad always doubted me, but couldn't argue with the results. Single curled chip even on hard metals.... Excellent demonstration...
Thanks, but out of 8.7 million views, that's only .03%, pretty much on par with other videos. Some people just have to have something to complain about.
Thanks Tom for this video. I am 31 and have just become a fitter/machinist apprentice here in Australia. I have been working CNC machines for nearly a decade but videos like this are truly great. I have been trying to master this for a while and after seeing your vid I think I have now. Thank you for making my training a bit easier. ;o)
An old engineer taught me how to sharpen drill bits when i was 16. Several decades on and guys in the workshop still ask me to sharpen drills for them. I can also resharpen rotary cutter bits for mag-drills. i.e. Rotorbroach, Jancy Slugger etc, etc.
I liked your presentation. I have sharpened my own bits for years. I was taught by an elderly (I use that term with the deepest respect. I wish I knew half of what he knew and be able to recall a quarter of what he taught me). one of the first th I ngs he taught me was the easy way to check to check the angle. take two he's nuts and hold two flats together. there's your 120 degrees. put the bit in with the Web parallel with apex of the angle. bring one cutting edge into contact with the wheel with the center of the bit just ever so slightly below 90 degrees. contact the wheel at the center line of the wheel and the cutting edge level. as soon as you contact the wheel start to move the shank of the bit own and to the left at the same time. not too much relief behind the cutting edge. to much relief makes the bit feed too fast causing grabbing and also results in a weak cutting edge. when you add those two things together it is easy to break the bit. you can check the length of the cutting edges seeing how much of the flats of the nuts are showing. pick nuts that have flats as close to the size of the cutting edges as you can. if you did it right when you are done it will look and cut like a new bit fresh out of the package. as for the Web not cutting, he also taught me that on bits much above 5/16 in thicker material use a pilot bit that is one size smaller than the web. my grandfather also taught me to always keep the bit cutting. he said "if you let the bit idle in the hole you will dull even a new it. I am now 60 and have discovered that if us young pups would listen and pay attention first to these wealth of information before we assume we have all the answers. how can we have all the answers when those guys had not yet heard all the questions.
I’m just BARELY starting to think about maybe possibly tinkering with some machine tools and I have been binging your vids as I prep for my first little project. You experience and willingness to put it out for other to benefit from is appreciated.
LOVE your video, brought a huge smile to my face. I saw my Dad do this hundreds of times as he was a machinist at Burgess Norton, Geneva, IL for 2 years followed by 43 years at Van Dee Mfg in Batavia, IL. I just called him on the phone and told him about your video and asked him if he used the square and he chuckled, that he could get it right by eye only and then after asking him how close to tolerance he could get it by eye and he laughed even harder said "within around .005"'! He ran three multiple spindle bar machines until they replaced them in the '90's? with single bar Mazaks. I actually worked with him at VD for a few months until I told myself I couldn't do it for 40 years and joined the USAF and retired at 25 years, 44 years old and he was still working at VD for another 5-7 years. I really felt/feel bad about that too but I had to retire as I broke my back or I'd still be working somewhere. Enough of flappin my gums. Thanks Please comment if you would as he'd like to hear from you.
Truthfully, I don't use the protractor either. I just used it in the video because it's a good idea to start with one until you develop the necessary skill to go without it. Once you get it down, it only takes seconds to sharpen a drill that will work like new. Thanks for watching. Tom
Not at all. I just include a lot more steps and information in my videos than I use myself, so someone trying it for the first time has all the tools they need to get it right. Glad you like the vids. Tom
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I learned how to do this about 15 years ago and haven't practices. I needed a good refresher course. Thanks!
I was taught the old school way and later learned the facet method. Both are good to know as larger bits 1 1/4 + lend them selves to the conical method especially in a job shop environment. Two things I recommend get yourself a drill point gauge w/6"scale 4R preferred. It's just handy as hell and the angle 118° is set and the most common. These are not expensive . Secondly do as Tom says and practice practice practice. People do things differently it's natural but most machinist sharpen drills the same way as shown.
I was very successful with using Toms techniques. I also found his teaching instructions very easy to understand and duplicate. I can't stand all you You tube hot heads that criticize a good man sharing knowledge.
I am not a machinist by any stretch,the reason for sharping bits is I watched a friend try to drill out exhaust studs and now this is what I am doing to learn the art of drill bit sharpening ,thanks for all the help and I am retired dozer operator.
excellent! Been doing it that way for decades, only tip I might add, because I work with some pretty large drills that often get really mangled, is remeind folks not to overheat the tip while grinding, tuning it blue or gold, thus softening up, annealing the tool steel. Thanks for that
The ability to hand sharpen a drill bit is a basic skill, and one of the first skills I learned as a machinist. I make it look easy because I've been doing it for so long. The faceted clearance angles demonstrated in the video is much easier for the beginner to master than the rolled clearance commonly taught. Get your hands dirty and try it out, it's the only way to learn. Tom
Tom, anyone ever told you that you sound like Kevin Costner ? anyhow, ignore the trolls that have nothing better to do than leave a negative or facetious remark on the interestingly put together tutorials you have taken the time and consideration to educate those that have boxes of twist drill bits that accumulate and never see a wheel stone. Keep up the good work and enjoy what your doing. Ignore the pods.
Very good, thanks for the effort and instruction. I have always struggled with this and I even get inconsistent results from my Drill Doctor. Now that I understand the concepts and goals we're trying to achieve, I can make it happen.
This video is why I never throw away dull bits, in the hopes that one day I would be able to do this without ruining the bit for good! I have tried over the years with limited success and this video just crossed my "t's" and dotted my "i's"! I think I can do this now! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
This guy has done 22X10 power 100,000, yeah it looks easy. I’m 73, engineering degree with honors, had a toolmaker give me a one hour lesson on drill sharpening and I still reduce a 6” long bit to 3” long before I get it right! He discounts his years of experience and knowledge. If you ever have to recreate our civilization make sure you have at least 1000 tool and die makers. They are use to working 7-12s so that should be enough, don’t forget donuts on payday!
Love it! I have been sharpening drills for over 40 years - but always good to see someone else's approach. I feel despite my old age, never too old to see another approach. Good stuff Tom - I enjoyed that. Now -- get yourself to my old shop - I have dozens of drills waiting to be done LOL. :)
Good tips showing how easy it is for beginners. I tend to roll the drill rather than taking it in two stages which also works well with practice. Using a bench sander works well too in upright position. An overhead spotlight looking directly down helps to get precise angle each time you repeat action along with using permenant marker to draw line on base plate showing correct angle On a really knackered drill bit be careful to go in stages to avoid overheating or drill cutting edge will become soft and will quickly become blunt.
Thanks. Splitting the point definitely makes for a better working drill and the skill required to make one will always be of benefit to a machinist. To do a good job, you need a fine wheel with a nice sharp corner. The wheel in the video is a bit coarser than I like and has been replaced with one that is 100 grit. Tom
I've been trying to sharpen bits for years with mixed results and have never been confident I'm doing it right. Thanks for the indepth instruction of all the important angles. Now I'm going to dig out a box of rusty old bits I've collected over the years and do lots of practice because I'll be more confident. Justin
Tom....got my practice in today and would give myself a grade of B+.... One thing I found helpful was to blue the tip with a marking pen, this helped me see where I was grinding as I progressed.
I learned to sharpen twist drills when I was an engineering apprentice in a Textile Machinery Manufacturer. I did it a little bit different:- rather than create a series of individual 'flat' angles, I would have an upward and slight rotating motion that created the clearances. Whatever works is good. Thanks for sharing
That's the way we were all taught in shop class, but this technique is actually more efficient. Do a little research on multi-faceted drill point geometry to see why I do it this way instead. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Drilling brass as well as plastic does require a special grind on the drill. You can grind the angle on the cutting edge to zero as you did, or just dull the edge slightly. Either way will prevent the drill from screwing into the work and ruining your day.
im glad i saw your comment. you know more than me, surely, and whenever i see someone working with stuff like table and band saws, grinders, anything like that with leather gloves for "protection" it has only made me thing "wouldn't the glove catch and pull your hand into the saw/grinder/whatever?" and you just proved my point.
Your grinding technique is nearly identical to mine, I've done thousands in 40 years. Here's a tip. To get that last fraction of a degree, the last few thousandths of lip, I shut the wheel off and touch the drill as it slows down. Lots of control, easier to get the results I want. Great finish, too. I often do the same thing when thinning the web, for the same reason
What I like about it is things are happening just like they normally would, only slower. Mistakes are more easily avoided. Too much coffee can make my hands shake, slowing the wheel helps.
Hello, Very informative. My dad was a tool & die maker, he sharpened all our bits. Now its my turn and your video really helped me to recall how its done. Many thanks! Bob R.
After watching several videos comparing various drill bit sharpening machines and the prices for them, the bench grinder seems the most practical by far since it can be used for other things, not just sharpening drill bits. So it will take some practice but from what I've seen the results are at least as good with the bench grinder and the most cost effective. Nice work on your video and explaining how to do sharpen bits.
Thank you Tom for this straightforward technique. Dull and improperly sharpened bits cost many hours of work over time with less than desirable results. I told the boss to stop buying so many new drill bits. I can save us some cash and get back in production faster if I don't have to struggle with a repair. Subscribed!
I've been grinding drills for 30 years, some as large as 2" in diameter. How you know you've done them right is the drill will cut the hole to size. If one side is longer, the hole will be larger which is good if you want slightly bigger. It's best to learn how to roll the clearance and count for each side to get them even. Using the side of the wheel is also a nice place to roll. You can rough the clearance on the front and roll on the side to finish.
I used to grind my drills with conical clearance as well, until I discovered the benefits of multi-faceted technology. Check out the following article by Joseph Mazoff: www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html
Nice, clear and concise video. A little tip for those starting out sharpening their own drills; it can help to scribe a line at 59 degrees on the grinder rest. It makes it easier to get the included 118 degree angle correct.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. That's also a very good tip. It can be difficult to keep the angle the same on both flutes until you get some practice under your belt. Tom
Thank you for this tutorial. I work in a stainless sheet metal shop, and we are forever dulling bits, as you can imagine. I've been shown a couple times, but never thoroughly, and there's only one guy in the shop that can do it predictably well. Now I need to practice, and since I do my art in stainless at home, I've dulled plenty of bits there as well. I appreciated the tips on hand positioning and bit position on the wheel. That's what I was trying to figure out today! I was trying to do a couple at work, and for the life of me couldn't figure out how I somehow kept putting the wrong ramp on the grind, with the back side of it being level or even higher than the front edge. I'm sure I had the bit held too low on the wheel.
+GARRY BASHAM Thanks Garry. I've always felt that an explanation for a thumbs down should be required. What good is criticism without justification? Is it because there is something in the video that the viewer disagreed with or didn't understand, or is it just someone doing it because they can without fear of recourse? No where in real life can you get away with that. Only on UA-cam. Tom
Very useful video, didn't know you can sharpen bits like that, thought I need a special tool. As for the angle, I just eyeballed it and it worked fine. Had to resharpen it a few times because I drilled two stainless steel knives and they were tough af.
+Thomas Pasqualone I just do it as needed. If the face starts cupping or I need a nice sharp corner on the wheel, I'll clean it up with a star wheel dresser for coarse wheels or a silicon carbide dressing stick for the fine ones. Tom
I learned many years ago how to sharpen...I just found a 5 gal bucket full of drill bits..every size there is...most of them are made in USA old stuff, but good brands..millerfalls etc. So far I have 50 good as new bits....most people just toss drill bits...
I always freehand sharpened my bits. I went by the angle the bit originally had and sometimes I did change it some. I didn’t use a protractor or ruler but I wasn’t a machinist. I was a diesel mechanic. I did have a machinist teach me how to notch the bit so it cut faster and lasted longer. It worked great when working on frame rails. You called it thinning the web.
I don't use a ruler or protractor either, but I've been hand sharpening drills since the 60's. However, I do recommend using them for those developing their skills.
Nice to see a craftsman do a real job this is how I was told to sharpen a drill over 38 years but I reduce the chisel point with a rad still sharpening drills I must have done hundreds over the years
I definitely becomes second nature after a while. I check every drill before I use it and if necessary, take a few seconds to give it a quick touch-up. Tom
This is one of several videos I've watched to work out how to improve my technique for sharpening twist drills. This is the best. I have a $30 jig which is really awkward to use, and you've inspired me to chuck it out (I inherited it from my Father, whom I don't think ever used it!) and try to use old-fashioned quality craftsmanship instead of gadgets. I don't have a protractor though, and I haven't noticed them here in the UK in DIY stores. Next challenge for me is to find one! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to explain so well. Jim
Thanks for the video,My dad did this always for me he was a welder for 30 years he sharped the drill's on the eye. And they where sharp as a stanley knife :-) He died 10-2-2016 Miss him a lot my best friend! Greetings Roy
Take two nuts put them flat side to flare side, the angle they make is 60 degrees, hold them together put the point of the bit in that space, thatvis a quick way to check your work, no gap and no separating the nuts , As you look down.
Watched a few videos and looked at a few guides.. this is the best. You explain what you're doing and why, and are able to show it with good camera technique (the light catches the freshly ground areas very well, and the relief areas are easy to distinguish). A lot of guides say " just rotate the bit a little" but for a beginner its hard to know how much. This seems like a better, more deliberate and consistent technique.
alexmckee1 Thanks Alex, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I started using this technique years ago when I started noticing that commercial bits were using faceted clearances rather than radial clearances we were all used to. They seemed to cut better and were easier and quicker to grind and I've done it that way ever since. I am planning to re-shoot this video. It was an early attempt for me and there are a few out of focus shots and some that would be easier to see with closer camera angles. The only problem with that is that I would lose all of these wonderful comments, but I guess that life. Thanks for watching. Tom
Thanks. I debated on whether to add include the part about thinning the web, but it makes a much better performing drill bit. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
Well Tom I never ground one like that. I was taught to grind the relief in while it was being ground and in a sweeping motion. Also never saw you check the tip angle, as it should also be 59 degrees when done correct.
The type of relief you describing is called conical relief and is the one we all learned in shop class (even mine). The type of relief I show in the video is called multi-faceted relief. Both methods work very well, but the one I use is easier to grind and cuts a little more efficiently. If you watch the video, I'm pretty sure you'll see me discuss drill point angles and check the one I was grinding with a protractor.
@@TomsTechniquesmaybe I missed it, but I didn't see you show them how to check the point angle as would be fone on a drill gauge. I know it would be pretty difficult to do with a protractor because I've tried it myself. I realize the way you showed them is much easier to learn to grind because the drill isn't really in movement. However it would be better than some of the drills that I've seen come out of some machines. I myself have been a machinist since 1978. I also have more than one way to thin the point, and the way that I like best is a chip breaker, however if done wrong can mess the drill up and take away from the land and change the length of one side. Done right it will run thousands of parts, done wrong and it can burn the drill up or make it walk off center.
Only thing I would say is not go so high up with second relief cut. Need to keep material behind cutting edge for heat distribution when drill is cutting. Last years running screw machines I would grind drills with similar grind using surface grinder and 5C collet index fixture. Then thin point by hand, and for soft metals put chip breaker. On soft metal such as brass, the chip breaker keeps the drill from getting sucked into spot drill hole. Had drills break from not putting chip breaker on drill. Also works to help drill from getting sucked thru hole when drilling flat stock. Made alot of drills into step drills, sheet metal style drills for different parts we made on Davenports.
@@danielcarlson9231 we ground everything like that, even turbo flutes, only thing we never ground like that was straight flutes or half rounds, by the way half rounds were our worst to grind by hand.lol
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Very nice job. I've been a machinist since 1973, and I am impressed how well you translated your actions. It is quite hard to show someone how machinists do quick fixes On-The-Fly. Some of your viewers seem to think it's a natural thing and why don't you just say "blah blah", but I don't see thier version on UA-cam. Very few people understand what it takes to get a point across. Pun not intended.
p
Really superb tutorial by old school guy that knows his stuff. As a carpenter for 43 years I have learned to sharpen all manner of tools, all by hand and eye. This guy is spot on about using your hands and eyes as guides. Gimmick sharpening devices are actually detrimental to developing 'feel' so necessary for sharpening. Great vid. Thumb WAY up.
Thanks Robert.
Well said about "developing the feel".
Tom
my father was a master tool & die maker .....he taught me how to sharpen drill bits in the shop at 16 years old much the same technique as you are doing now........he started his apprenticeship at age 14 and worked until age 65 at a machine shop then taught at trades school until he was 74 and his eyesight was not so good ......he was so skilled he never had to use the measuring tools himself to check the angles or lengths when sharpening bits or tools ......the other tradesmen used to call him Peter Perfect ........great video !
+Wilbert Michielsen With lots of experience it can be done "bye eye" and be close. Especially on little drills. Personally it is harder for me to do larger ones or tiny ones that way. Plus keeping in mind if you want to go deep improper sharpening can have problems and some probs on diam. even with thin material. It only takes a second to use a protractor n scale or even dial caliper. I throw away babies like up to1/8 or so with the time vs cost and quote for the job in mind plus with a replacement supply of course.
This is why I do these videos. To hear that someone actually applied what they learned in them is great to hear.
Thanks!
Tom
I've been a machinist for 40 + years....I don't do everything exactly as Tom does.......but what he is showing you.....will certainly work. Watch, listen and learn. This man does know what he is talking about.
Dear Tom, I need to add to my previous comment. You have not only saved me loads of money (that I don't have) you have saved my sanity. I have been struggling with blunt drills for about 25 years. I was very good at making real hard work out of drilling into steel, until now. I stopped trying to sharpen the drills, because I only made them worse. You explained it so well I found it easy, at long last. Instead of dreading the thought of drilling into steel, I can't wait to do some more.Thanks for kindly sharing your wisdom. Janette
Once you get the hang of it, it's kind of fun sharpening them and as you say, you also save a lot of money doing it. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Be sure to check out my website, tomstechniques.com.
Tom
THAT"S what I like to hear Tom! The whole point of making these videos is to hear that someone actually got their hands dirty, applied some of this stuff and learned something while doing it.
Good job.
Tom
I've sharpened my own drills by eye for at least 20 years now and they work 'ok'
I've just resharpened one of my drills using this method and oh my, what a difference, they cut better now than my shop bought drills, I have a lot of drills to resharpen now.
Thank you for posting this, I only wish I'd seen it 9 years ago 😊
Have a stockpile of old dull bits in my basement. Just tried this and right off the bat the first bit drills through steel like butter! Thanks for saving me hundreds of dollars worth of old bits!!! Couldnt have been easier!
It's good to hear that a video I made nine years ago is still being used!
It definitely is. I just used your technique to sharpen some old bits of mine. Thank goodness for the Internet and people like you 👍.
Your old drill bits are probably made from decent HSS material
Tom im a machinist well over 30years that was a perfect demo. faster then some mechanical grinders ive used which can burn the edge an soften it, i know used them for drills waste unless your in the business and have lots of resharps of the same sizes to do.
I have no idea why anyone gave this video a thumbs down. This was an outstanding explanation of how to sharpen a drill bit effectively.
😢v,
Thanks Tom. I hadn't sharpened a drill bit in over 10 years so I needed a refresher.
Thanks for watching!
The ammount of videos there are on UA-cam telling you how to make jigs to re-grind drill bits is unbelievable. I feel obliged to sit there and write "you don't need a jig!........" Well done that man for showing people how easy and quick it is to sharpen a drill bit, just by hand on the wheel.Apart from the fact that I tend to rock the bit to get a continuous clearance ramp, not just a flat angle, That's EXACTLY how I do it.
It's a great technic no argument there and a very nice tutorial👍 but, I built a very simple drill bit sharpening jig, and boy it made my life easier the design is so simple, I have the tutorial in my channel if anyone intrested
Thanks Tom, I have a drill doctor and got pissed off at it because the grinding wheel wears out so quick so I looked up sharpening a drill bit on youtube and after watching a few good ones I found yours to be the cats ass thanks I was drinking some wine and watching this and had to go to the bench grinder right away to play. I promise I will get good at this because of good people like you sharing your trade
Thanks. It's always good to hear that the videos are being used.
Tom
I got taught when I was an apprentice mechanic 50 years ago. My boss taught me to slightly roll the drill bit from the cutting edge, the main thing is practice. I can still do it today, keep at it.
Conical clearance will work fine (that's the way I learned as well), but faceted clearance angles are a bit easier to grind and generate less heat.
Thanks for watching.
It's good to hear that the trades are still being taught in high school. It's definitely not as common as it was when I was teaching in the 70's. I'm glad you liked the video.
very good....what i use to get the angel instead of a protractor is 2 hex nuts pushed together..you push the tip of the bit between them ...it also gives you a guide if you have got both sides the same as the 2 nuts will sit wonky if you have not,,so no need to use a ruler
+david appleton Good idea
Excellent instructions! Went through my entire working career as a motor mechanic and never sharpened a drill bit properly till now. Had a great afternoon sharpening about 20 dull bits after viewing your video.
Cheers
This is the first video I found that talked about the clearance angle which I found to be the most important part. Finally got my lug drilled out
Hello. I just found your Channel. I been machining for over 20 years as a trade. Of the videos I personally have seen on how to sharpen a drill, you Sir, are at the top of that list. Excellent work.
+Stacy Simon
Thanks! Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel.
Tom
Thanks for the great instructional video Tom , you just saved me 100.00+ as I was thinking about purchasing a bit sharpener. I have never had the opportunity to see anyone sharpen a drill bit , you just saved me a lot of $ and taught me a very valued skill to have. For that Sir I thank you , just found your channel . I am now a subscriber !
Many thanks , as a 65 year old, ive never been able to sharpen a drill bit, after watching your video ive just been in the workshop and in under a hour ive back to life a box full of bits that I'd saved for a rainy day!!! Many thanks again and best regards, Andy
Thanks Andy, It's good to hear the video was of use to you.
@@TomsTechniques Hi Tom, thanks for the reply, I never really had an engineering background, though my 20!s and up to 40 I was a coal miner, at 40 the coal mine closed and I went into the diving trade until a major injury I received whilst coal mining took its toll, nowadays ive found a passion in making stuff from metal and wood. Your video has been to me the answer of black magic art !!! Thanks again and best regards always, Andy
Now first of all, Thank You! I tried this technique and it worked like a charm. I wish my teachers showed it to me when I started. Amazing!
Probably the best video online that I've seen, making it look easier than it is, but covering all aspect thoroughly
Thanks Adam.
How could anyone find anything wrong with this tutorial-best I've ever seen on how to sharpen-natural born teacher-thank you sir
Wrong to most negative responders is simply anything other than the way they do it. It's sad to see how many people are not receptive to new ideas.
@@TomsTechniques it's always nice on paper...know what I mean.
Im in a trade school for half of my day every day in high school. Im learning to become a metal machinist, so I watched this video to try and get a head start in my class. Thanks for the video, it definately gives me a good idea of what I'll be doing
Nice work Tom my grandfather taught me this same technique I have over 300 bits some of his and mine and its nice to have bits to get the job done right! Glad to see people teaching good technique and by hand which works better. Anyone can go buy a machine to sharpen bits, my wife got me a craftsman and what a piece of JUNK!!! Hand sharp all the way!!
Thanks MAN!
Completely agree. The way I was taught and the way I teach. Cheers.
I recently taught myself how to do this as I got tired of having to get new drill bits all the time. I was surprised at how easy it is to sharpen a drill bit successfully. As Tom has illustrated here, the critical thing is to pay attention to the angles and keep them consistent.
This is an excellent video!
+Mark Lochala
Thanks for watching Mark.
Tom
Perfection in motion, skilled craftsmanship, not forced just fluid from years of experience these are the things that are slowly disappearing, thank the lord for UA-cam and thank you sir for sharing..
Thank you for watching
THANK YOU FOR THIS, you make it look so easy, and then you tell us the trick, keep hold of the drill, turn it over while keeping the same grip and you can put it back again, simple but genius.
Thanks. It's always good to heat from those who benefit from the videos.
Tom
Hi if you hold two hex nuts together they have an angle of 120 degrees if you don't have your protractor handy and its only 2 degrees out!
This is exactly how I've been doing it for 40 years. Self taught, my Dad always doubted me, but couldn't argue with the results. Single curled chip even on hard metals.... Excellent demonstration...
Thanks.
There have been a few "doubting dad's" on here as well, but as you say, you can't argue with the results.
Glad you enjoyed the demo.
Tom
How can there be 2.1k dislikes of this?! I'd say it is one of the better hand grinding tutorials here.
Thanks, but out of 8.7 million views, that's only .03%, pretty much on par with other videos. Some people just have to have something to complain about.
Thanks Tom for this video. I am 31 and have just become a fitter/machinist apprentice here in Australia. I have been working CNC machines for nearly a decade but videos like this are truly great. I have been trying to master this for a while and after seeing your vid I think I have now. Thank you for making my training a bit easier. ;o)
Glad I could be of assistance, this a very useful skill to master.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
An old engineer taught me how to sharpen drill bits when i was 16. Several decades on and guys in the workshop still ask me to sharpen drills for them. I can also resharpen rotary cutter bits for mag-drills. i.e. Rotorbroach, Jancy Slugger etc, etc.
Yes, brass and plastic require either zero back rake or a slightly blunted cutting edge so they don't screw into the work.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
I liked your presentation. I have sharpened my own bits for years. I was taught by an elderly (I use that term with the deepest respect. I wish I knew half of what he knew and be able to recall a quarter of what he taught me). one of the first th I ngs he taught me was the easy way to check to check the angle. take two he's nuts and hold two flats together. there's your 120 degrees. put the bit in with the Web parallel with apex of the angle. bring one cutting edge into contact with the wheel with the center of the bit just ever so slightly below 90 degrees. contact the wheel at the center line of the wheel and the cutting edge level. as soon as you contact the wheel start to move the shank of the bit own and to the left at the same time. not too much relief behind the cutting edge. to much relief makes the bit feed too fast causing grabbing and also results in a weak cutting edge. when you add those two things together it is easy to break the bit. you can check the length of the cutting edges seeing how much of the flats of the nuts are showing. pick nuts that have flats as close to the size of the cutting edges as you can. if you did it right when you are done it will look and cut like a new bit fresh out of the package. as for the Web not cutting, he also taught me that on bits much above 5/16 in thicker material use a pilot bit that is one size smaller than the web. my grandfather also taught me to always keep the bit cutting. he said "if you let the bit idle in the hole you will dull even a new it. I am now 60 and have discovered that if us young pups would listen and pay attention first to these wealth of information before we assume we have all the answers. how can we have all the answers when those guys had not yet heard all the questions.
I’m just BARELY starting to think about maybe possibly tinkering with some machine tools and I have been binging your vids as I prep for my first little project. You experience and willingness to put it out for other to benefit from is appreciated.
Thanks Tom. Very clear. Appreciate the time and effort put into this. Going to practice this weekend.
LOVE your video, brought a huge smile to my face. I saw my Dad do this hundreds of times as he was a machinist at Burgess Norton, Geneva, IL for 2 years followed by 43 years at Van Dee Mfg in Batavia, IL. I just called him on the phone and told him about your video and asked him if he used the square and he chuckled, that he could get it right by eye only and then after asking him how close to tolerance he could get it by eye and he laughed even harder said "within around .005"'! He ran three multiple spindle bar machines until they replaced them in the '90's? with single bar Mazaks. I actually worked with him at VD for a few months until I told myself I couldn't do it for 40 years and joined the USAF and retired at 25 years, 44 years old and he was still working at VD for another 5-7 years. I really felt/feel bad about that too but I had to retire as I broke my back or I'd still be working somewhere. Enough of flappin my gums. Thanks Please comment if you would as he'd like to hear from you.
Truthfully, I don't use the protractor either. I just used it in the video because it's a good idea to start with one until you develop the necessary skill to go without it. Once you get it down, it only takes seconds to sharpen a drill that will work like new.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Tom's Techniques I hope you don't think I was disrespecting you, I wasn't just wanted to share my experience. Like your other vids too.
Not at all. I just include a lot more steps and information in my videos than I use myself, so someone trying it for the first time has all the tools they need to get it right.
Glad you like the vids.
Tom
Most videos don't make or speak about that secondary cut or the third. Thank you for covering those.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I learned how to do this about 15 years ago and haven't practices. I needed a good refresher course. Thanks!
Yes, you need to practice to keep the skills current.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
I was taught the old school way and later learned the facet method. Both are good to know as larger bits 1 1/4 + lend them selves to the conical method especially in a job shop environment.
Two things I recommend get yourself a drill point gauge w/6"scale 4R preferred. It's just handy as hell and the angle 118° is set and the most common. These are not expensive .
Secondly do as Tom says and practice practice practice.
People do things differently it's natural but most machinist sharpen drills the same way as shown.
.
Excellent teaching. This is a good basic skill to learn and master. Thanks Tom. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks for watching them!
I was very successful with using Toms techniques. I also found his teaching instructions very easy to understand and duplicate. I can't stand all you You tube hot heads that criticize a good man sharing knowledge.
True, true, every once in a while I see someone do a proper job and some idiots can't do it, but critique the shit out of it.
I am having trouble getting the 58 degree angle min looks like a permid.am I getting the bit off center need some advise
I am not a machinist by any stretch,the reason for sharping bits is I watched a friend try to drill out exhaust studs and now this is what I am doing to learn the art of drill bit sharpening ,thanks for all the help and I am retired dozer operator.
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excellent! Been doing it that way for decades, only tip I might add, because I work with some pretty large drills that often get really mangled, is remeind folks not to overheat the tip while grinding, tuning it blue or gold, thus softening up, annealing the tool steel.
Thanks for that
Toms, that is a good video. No many mechanics today do this kind of sharpening.
The ability to hand sharpen a drill bit is a basic skill, and one of the first skills I learned as a machinist. I make it look easy because I've been doing it for so long. The faceted clearance angles demonstrated in the video is much easier for the beginner to master than the rolled clearance commonly taught. Get your hands dirty and try it out, it's the only way to learn.
Tom
Tom, anyone ever told you that you sound like Kevin Costner ? anyhow, ignore the trolls that have nothing better to do than leave a negative or facetious remark on the interestingly put together tutorials you have taken the time and consideration to educate those that have boxes of twist drill bits that accumulate and never see a wheel stone. Keep up the good work and enjoy what your doing. Ignore the pods.
Thanks Glen
Thanks.
The ability to hand sharpen a tool is definitely a plus for any machinist.
Tom
Very good, thanks for the effort and instruction. I have always struggled with this and I even get inconsistent results from my Drill Doctor. Now that I understand the concepts and goals we're trying to achieve, I can make it happen.
Thanks Brantley, glad I could help.
Tom
This video is why I never throw away dull bits, in the hopes that one day I would be able to do this without ruining the bit for good! I have tried over the years with limited success and this video just crossed my "t's" and dotted my "i's"! I think I can do this now! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
It's good to hear that the video helped out.
Thanks for watching.
This guy has done 22X10 power 100,000, yeah it looks easy. I’m 73, engineering degree with honors, had a toolmaker give me a one hour lesson on drill sharpening and I still reduce a 6” long bit to 3” long before I get it right! He discounts his years of experience and knowledge. If you ever have to recreate our civilization make sure you have at least 1000 tool and die makers. They are use to working 7-12s so that should be enough, don’t forget donuts on payday!
Love it! I have been sharpening drills for over 40 years - but always good to see someone else's approach. I feel despite my old age, never too old to see another approach. Good stuff Tom - I enjoyed that. Now -- get yourself to my old shop - I have dozens of drills waiting to be done LOL. :)
Good tips showing how easy it is for beginners. I tend to roll the drill rather than taking it in two stages which also works well with practice. Using a bench sander works well too in upright position. An overhead spotlight looking directly down helps to get precise angle each time you repeat action along with using permenant marker to draw line on base plate showing correct angle
On a really knackered drill bit be careful to go in stages to avoid overheating or drill cutting edge will become soft and will quickly become blunt.
Thanks. Splitting the point definitely makes for a better working drill and the skill required to make one will always be of benefit to a machinist. To do a good job, you need a fine wheel with a nice sharp corner. The wheel in the video is a bit coarser than I like and has been replaced with one that is 100 grit.
Tom
If in a bind, placing two nuts flat to flat, gives a 120° angle for reference.
Thank you! A nice trick to remember.
I've been trying to sharpen bits for years with mixed results and have never been confident I'm doing it right. Thanks for the indepth instruction of all the important angles. Now I'm going to dig out a box of rusty old bits I've collected over the years and do lots of practice because I'll be more confident.
Justin
That's the nice thing about drills, there are always plenty of dull ones around to practice on. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Tom
I just guessed and it worked brilliantly. I sharpened a broken drill bit and it was better than new.
Tom....got my practice in today and would give myself a grade of B+.... One thing I found helpful was to blue the tip with a marking pen, this helped me see where I was grinding as I progressed.
Awesome, it helps so much when teaching anything to explain WHY you're doing what you're doing! A+
Exactly. Knowing "Why" definitely adds validity to learning "how". Thanks for watching.
Thanks Chris, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I have a few boxes of old drills around myself that could use some sprucing up.
Tom
I learned to sharpen twist drills when I was an engineering apprentice in a Textile Machinery Manufacturer. I did it a little bit different:- rather than create a series of individual 'flat' angles, I would have an upward and slight rotating motion that created the clearances. Whatever works is good.
Thanks for sharing
That's the way we were all taught in shop class, but this technique is actually more efficient. Do a little research on multi-faceted drill point geometry to see why I do it this way instead.
Thanks for watching.
I have been buying new drill bits every time i needed a sharp one for years ,, I will certainly give this a try THANKS
Thanks for actually calling it a "bit."
+GrammarNazi0000
Am I missing something???
Toms Techniques Of course !
GrammarNazi0000 No problem !
It was my first job out of school in a fabrication shop.
But I had forgotten...thanks for the refresher..😊
Thanks for watching.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Drilling brass as well as plastic does require a special grind on the drill. You can grind the angle on the cutting edge to zero as you did, or just dull the edge slightly. Either way will prevent the drill from screwing into the work and ruining your day.
Great video, thanks! I’ve quickly learned it requires lots of practice and much PATIENCE sharpening bits
im glad i saw your comment. you know more than me, surely, and whenever i see someone working with stuff like table and band saws, grinders, anything like that with leather gloves for "protection" it has only made me thing "wouldn't the glove catch and pull your hand into the saw/grinder/whatever?" and you just proved my point.
Your grinding technique is nearly identical to mine, I've done thousands in 40 years. Here's a tip. To get that last fraction of a degree, the last few thousandths of lip, I shut the wheel off and touch the drill as it slows down. Lots of control, easier to get the results I want. Great finish, too. I often do the same thing when thinning the web, for the same reason
Thanks. I'll have to give that a try.
What I like about it is things are happening just like they normally would, only slower. Mistakes are more easily avoided. Too much coffee can make my hands shake, slowing the wheel helps.
Hello, Very informative. My dad was a tool & die maker, he sharpened all our bits. Now its my turn and your video really helped me to recall how its done. Many thanks! Bob R.
Thanks for watching, Bob.
Tom, I learned how to do this in 1966 my Grandfather taught me. Nice to relearn. Great Video - only add start with eye protection.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thinning the web definitely improves the performance of a drill.
Excellent demonstration. Thank-you Tom.
After watching several videos comparing various drill bit sharpening machines and the prices for them, the bench grinder seems the most practical by far since it can be used for other things, not just sharpening drill bits. So it will take some practice but from what I've seen the results are at least as good with the bench grinder and the most cost effective. Nice work on your video and explaining how to do sharpen bits.
Very good video................clear and concise.................ty
Thanks for watching.
Thank you Tom for this straightforward technique. Dull and improperly sharpened bits cost many hours of work over time with less than desirable results. I told the boss to stop buying so many new drill bits. I can save us some cash and get back in production faster if I don't have to struggle with a repair. Subscribed!
Thanks for watching.
I've been grinding drills for 30 years, some as large as 2" in diameter. How you know you've done them right is the drill will cut the hole to size. If one side is longer, the hole will be larger which is good if you want slightly bigger. It's best to learn how to roll the clearance and count for each side to get them even. Using the side of the wheel is also a nice place to roll. You can rough the clearance on the front and roll on the side to finish.
I used to grind my drills with conical clearance as well, until I discovered the benefits of multi-faceted technology. Check out the following article by Joseph Mazoff:
www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html
Best instructions I've seen, I just sharpened a 5/16 drill bit and it cut like new. Thanks
nice job, I have to try this method
Nice, clear and concise video. A little tip for those starting out sharpening their own drills; it can help to scribe a line at 59 degrees on the grinder rest. It makes it easier to get the included 118 degree angle correct.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. That's also a very good tip. It can be difficult to keep the angle the same on both flutes until you get some practice under your belt.
Tom
Thank you for this tutorial. I work in a stainless sheet metal shop, and we are forever dulling bits, as you can imagine. I've been shown a couple times, but never thoroughly, and there's only one guy in the shop that can do it predictably well. Now I need to practice, and since I do my art in stainless at home, I've dulled plenty of bits there as well. I appreciated the tips on hand positioning and bit position on the wheel. That's what I was trying to figure out today! I was trying to do a couple at work, and for the life of me couldn't figure out how I somehow kept putting the wrong ramp on the grind, with the back side of it being level or even higher than the front edge. I'm sure I had the bit held too low on the wheel.
Thanks Tom.
Drill sharpening takes good hand/eye coordination, but that comes with practice.
Tom
Very well explained Tom, I have no idea why some people have given you a thumbs down, you get a BIG thumbs up from us.....!
+GARRY BASHAM
Thanks Garry.
I've always felt that an explanation for a thumbs down should be required. What good is criticism without justification? Is it because there is something in the video that the viewer disagreed with or didn't understand, or is it just someone doing it because they can without fear of recourse? No where in real life can you get away with that. Only on UA-cam.
Tom
Very useful video, didn't know you can sharpen bits like that, thought I need a special tool.
As for the angle, I just eyeballed it and it worked fine.
Had to resharpen it a few times because I drilled two stainless steel knives and they were tough af.
Excellent presentation. Thorough, concise, illuminating. Thank you.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Tom
Great video. Just wondering though, you made no mention of truing up the face of the grinding wheel. Your thoughts please?
+Thomas Pasqualone
I just do it as needed. If the face starts cupping or I need a nice sharp corner on the wheel, I'll clean it up with a star wheel dresser for coarse wheels or a silicon carbide dressing stick for the fine ones.
Tom
I tried this last week while drilling through a lot of steel - worked great - thank you for posting!
I learned many years ago how to sharpen...I just found a 5 gal bucket full of drill bits..every size there is...most of them are made in USA old stuff, but good brands..millerfalls etc. So far I have 50 good as new bits....most people just toss drill bits...
To date that was the best drill sharpening video I've seen. Thanks Tom
Thanks for watching
I always freehand sharpened my bits. I went by the angle the bit originally had and sometimes I did change it some. I didn’t use a protractor or ruler but I wasn’t a machinist. I was a diesel mechanic. I did have a machinist teach me how to notch the bit so it cut faster and lasted longer. It worked great when working on frame rails. You called it thinning the web.
I don't use a ruler or protractor either, but I've been hand sharpening drills since the 60's. However, I do recommend using them for those developing their skills.
@@TomsTechniques I agree, it takes time to develop the eye and feel.
Nice to see a craftsman do a real job this is how I was told to sharpen a drill over 38 years but I reduce the chisel point with a rad still sharpening drills I must have done hundreds over the years
I definitely becomes second nature after a while. I check every drill before I use it and if necessary, take a few seconds to give it a quick touch-up.
Tom
The best explanation I've seen...good job
.
This is one of several videos I've watched to work out how to improve my technique for sharpening twist drills. This is the best. I have a $30 jig which is really awkward to use, and you've inspired me to chuck it out (I inherited it from my Father, whom I don't think ever used it!) and try to use old-fashioned quality craftsmanship instead of gadgets. I don't have a protractor though, and I haven't noticed them here in the UK in DIY stores. Next challenge for me is to find one!
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to explain so well.
Jim
Jim,
Old fashioned quality craftsmanship gets my vote every time. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Tom
Amazing. Easily the best video on the topic
Thanks for the video,My dad did this always for me he was a welder for 30 years he sharped the drill's on the eye. And they where sharp as a stanley knife :-) He died 10-2-2016 Miss him a lot my best friend! Greetings Roy
Thanks Roy. Sorry to hear about your dad.
Tom
Same here, my dad was my best friend too and a hell of a mechanic !
Stephan Craenen :-( same pain men. stay strong m8
Take two nuts put them flat side to flare side, the angle they make is 60 degrees, hold them together put the point of the bit in that space, thatvis a quick way to check your work, no gap and no separating the nuts , As you look down.
Hi Mike. I took my two nuts and put them side by side. Just going to get the wife to check the angle between them.
Doctor Boy how did you have them before Mike recommended you keeping them side by side?
Watched a few videos and looked at a few guides.. this is the best. You explain what you're doing and why, and are able to show it with good camera technique (the light catches the freshly ground areas very well, and the relief areas are easy to distinguish). A lot of guides say " just rotate the bit a little" but for a beginner its hard to know how much. This seems like a better, more deliberate and consistent technique.
alexmckee1
Thanks Alex, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
I started using this technique years ago when I started noticing that commercial bits were using faceted clearances rather than radial clearances we were all used to. They seemed to cut better and were easier and quicker to grind and I've done it that way ever since.
I am planning to re-shoot this video. It was an early attempt for me and there are a few out of focus shots and some that would be easier to see with closer camera angles. The only problem with that is that I would lose all of these wonderful comments, but I guess that life.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Very nice explanation thank you!!
Thanks. I debated on whether to add include the part about thinning the web, but it makes a much better performing drill bit. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
Well Tom I never ground one like that. I was taught to grind the relief in while it was being ground and in a sweeping motion. Also never saw you check the tip angle, as it should also be 59 degrees when done correct.
The type of relief you describing is called conical relief and is the one we all learned in shop class (even mine). The type of relief I show in the video is called multi-faceted relief. Both methods work very well, but the one I use is easier to grind and cuts a little more efficiently. If you watch the video, I'm pretty sure you'll see me discuss drill point angles and check the one I was grinding with a protractor.
@@TomsTechniquesmaybe I missed it, but I didn't see you show them how to check the point angle as would be fone on a drill gauge. I know it would be pretty difficult to do with a protractor because I've tried it myself. I realize the way you showed them is much easier to learn to grind because the drill isn't really in movement. However it would be better than some of the drills that I've seen come out of some machines. I myself have been a machinist since 1978. I also have more than one way to thin the point, and the way that I like best is a chip breaker, however if done wrong can mess the drill up and take away from the land and change the length of one side. Done right it will run thousands of parts, done wrong and it can burn the drill up or make it walk off center.
Only thing I would say is not go so high up with second relief cut. Need to keep material behind cutting edge for heat distribution when drill is cutting. Last years running screw machines I would grind drills with similar grind using surface grinder and 5C collet index fixture. Then thin point by hand, and for soft metals put chip breaker. On soft metal such as brass, the chip breaker keeps the drill from getting sucked into spot drill hole. Had drills break from not putting chip breaker on drill. Also works to help drill from getting sucked thru hole when drilling flat stock. Made alot of drills into step drills, sheet metal style drills for different parts we made on Davenports.
@@danielcarlson9231 we ground everything like that, even turbo flutes, only thing we never ground like that was straight flutes or half rounds, by the way half rounds were our worst to grind by hand.lol
I have to admit that was a really great video on how to sharpen a drill bit. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Tom