I learned to sharpen bits at the age of 10. The neighbor that had a machine shop in his garage had lost the use of one eye and had lost his depth perception so my first job every morning I was there was to sharpen the bits that were dull from the day before.. I learned so much from that man that I still use today 59 years later.
@Siddharth Singh I'd say he is if your math is like mine and on top of that, that's 59 years of experience taught and ingrained at 10yrs old. Point out to me, any 10 year old kid today that would be willing to do anything "labour" like @Gray Beard. Don't worry, I won't stay and wait. I know the answer. PS: I'm not that far behind Gray Beard.... LOL
I always went to older people for ANY experience in what they were doing. Mister So and So building a house from the ground up? I'll be there. Lesson learned from that job: I can do concrete from scratch using sand, water, and cement; I can raise and set plumb walls finding the crown of wood to make sure I have the best chance of a straight wall; I can fish wires for electrical through wall studs, same goes for plumbing; I can install asphalt shingles on any pitch roof. Joe Blow has a farm and needs someone to operate the rakes before they harvest the hay? I'll be there. Lesson learned here from that job: I can operate any standard farm tractors which also helped me in driving standard cars; I can milk a cow and take care of the rest that a farm requires each day. From shovelling cow shit to feeding chicks, I've done it all. Speaking of done it all, also did some grave digging as I sometimes helped the local grave digger. I was about 14-15 LOL. I made friends with older people that taught me woodworking, furniture building, welding, house building, and especially a good friend of mine that taught me electronics. This is where you get REAL experience. What you read in books (in my days you went to libraries, no UA-cam stuff) gives you the general idea of how things will work. Hands on is where it really clicks. School shows you the basic idea, life experience teaches you lessons. I'm sure you are the same type of person as I. Jack of all trades yet master of none. Doesn't stop people always asking you for your opinion on stuff they are building. ☺
Ironically I am uploading a video now from some of my experiences with a welder at the place I used to work. Learned a lot from him, but he was definitely an eccentric price, lol.
@@danyf3116 ,,,,,,,I grew up with knowlege from the industrial age.........When men were tuff............New generations of kids daydream with digital toys......To most ,,they are lost in the world of Mechanical common sense........[I'm 71]..............Fuk em...........
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. It's perplexing to read all the negative comments below that only want to pick it apart. Too bad we can't all be perfect as they are. Please pay no attention to those guys. Lots of great content, keep up the good work.
Old toolmaker here, good information. I would suggest buying the right wheel and also a wheel dresser to straighten a worn wheel and resharpen the wheel. Kind of like riding a bike, it gets automatic with practice and you won’t need the gauge. It was common to freehand drills from 1/8”-3/4”. Pilot holes help as well.
That is how I was taught. It works. In one shop I worked in, they would have a coffee can full of drill bits of every size. All of them dull. Every other day, I was the guy who sharpened all those drill bits. You get real good at it after awhile.
I did my apprenticeship in a very good, old school machine shop over 20 years ago. Learned all of that in the first year, before you actually learned how to use the machine we had to learn how to sharpen the tooling. Testing of your drill should always be in a drill press, cutting the material you sharpened the drill for, and the hole size drilled should be tested with plug gauges for accuracy. Was part of our trade test. As was dressing and radiusing grinding wheels for crankshafts. And lathe and mill tooling.
Eu am 60 de ani și acum pot ascuți burghiului pentru materialul și cuțite pt.stung,rebotezat etc..fără ajutor .Din mănă poți cu mult drag de lucrul bine efectuat ,așa știam și ce fel de oțel este prin scânteia de la polizor.
In case you didn’t know the angle on the grinder stand that you use gives you the 118° that you want. If you just laid your drill bit on the stand inside of that V groove and ease did to your grinding stone with a slight twist when applying pressure you’ll get better results than trying to freehand it and match it up to a glorified protractor. Just want to make your life easier.
The old men I trained under showed me how to do this. They also showed me how to pick locks, split nuts with a torch, and work with focus, and a swiftness. I really went nuts with my own Lefty Sidearm swing on this drill sharpening. I've got several different techniques that give many options when sharpening all kinds of stuff. The old man I hunted with taught me how to turn a clip knife into a razor with a flat stone. If I don't pass some of it on, it will be lost. Talk to my Son in 20 years when I'm gone. I've been working with him for his whole life. When I'm gone, he will be the only one who learned this stuff from me. I call my evolution in metal work the Cambodian Builder. After a lifetime of practicing all of our building skills that are available at this current time , I conclude that the best way to do everything is "out of the dirt". Greatness is achieved by providing the same result without the proper equipment. Some day soon when the electric stops flowing, this world will need to learn how to do it by the Hand and Eye again. An art that is being lost at a very rapid rate.
I just saw this and see that it was posted in May 2018. In any case, I'm a DIY'er, and fabricate metal and wood things. I've found many useful things on doing things myself on UA-cam. One was how to spray paint a larger gas tank on my bike that turned out really nice. I also found out how to heat treat metal parts using a small charcoal grill, a window fan to force air into the bottom vent, and submerge the parts in used motor oil that left a blackened rust proof finish. Since the original seat didn't fit, I made a solo seat for myself, and heat treated the new gas tank mounts, the hinge for the seat and the cross bar for the springs under the rear of my seat. Thank you for the tip on how to sharpen drill bits.
Great stuff - thank you!! Given what is happening to the supply chain and what drill bits cost WHEN you can get them, throwing them away when they get dull really is NOT an option.
It's actually a 59 degree as you showed in the first minute. The included angle is when considering both angles and you have to use the movable guide to get that angle.
You have demonstrated & explained very well ; professionals won’t have an issue to follow ur demo ; but new comers who don’t know the basics of twist drill application n cutting-edge importance to drill bits , will need a lot of practice to perfect their skills in Re grinding to restore the cutting edge
As an engineer I've been grinding drills freehand for over 50 years but I struggle to understand the purpose of grinding this extra relief after you've already ground the drill with front rake clearance? Seems to me that drilling a pilot hole first of the same diameter as the drill web thickness is a more sensible way to go in order to to lighten the drilling pressure and increase accuracy. I've seen this, and tried it myself, and apart from it looking impressive, I can't say that it drills any easier or better than a standard ground drill.
i worked as toolmaker for 20yy and never drilled witho io t the pilot hole precision comes from proven techique wirhout pilothole the drillbit bends and overheat creating problems in the long run. if the shopmaster saw anyone drilling directly with a drillbit larger then 3/16 he would fire him as fast as you think that 2+2=4, i was the smaster the tools are v expencive and i show them that a 10 dollars drill performs as ab5 dollars if not used right.
I would like to congratulate you on being the first person I've seen to PROPERLY sharpen a drill. The only thing I would like to recommend is to finish with a little finer stone to get a finer finish. My dad taught me to hand sharpen drills when I was about 12 years old, that was 60 years ago. I have sharpened them down to 1/16" and ground split points down to 1/8" and you can notice the difference in how they cut if you have a good sense of feel. I've got a lot of free drills over the years by asking for drills guys are going to throw away! Also, if you drill stainless, copper or brass you might want to get familiar with grinding a negative rake on your drills. The average guy isn't going to get into exotic metals, but for stainless a low rpm with a negative rake drill, good coolant and quite a bit of pressure you can drill stainless all day! In your softer metals like copper and brass a negative rake will keep it from grabbing and pulling into the work.
We have quite a few 2” and 3” dia drills that are 3 and 4 fluted they are abit trickier to grind . Also a good tip if your drilling brass after grinding the drill as normal , then rub an oil stone along the sharp cutting edges to dull them otherwise the drill can grab . Good video .
If you sharp cutting edges from inside ,chip will not makes too long it will cut near the job .it is very usefull for production job like me here.I am drilling here tractor wheel shaft in 242 mm pcd and 17mm hss drill with 8 hole and after that second function is remer of 17.5mm . 450 pcs lot that means 450×8 holes. And drilling machine is mas vr2 radill drill.
Very nice followup. I'm glad you didn't get into adding a negative rake cutting point in the web when thinning. That would probably make too much of a challange for learning this skill. By the way when working in exotic metals like stainless, monel, inconel, etc. it is important to thin the web and add a negative point rake to releive pressure and cut with all drills. It increases tool life and keeps the drill cutting straight and narrow. Pecking and coolant in any material will increase tool life. Great job, I am suscribing. Your video with Justin was the first time I've seen you. 40 years of machining and I learn somthing all the time!
Thank you very much for the kind words, I appreciate it. I was fortunate in my machining career to not have to cut many exotic materials outside of some bronze alloys! Sooner or later I'll get the NC back together and make some chips!
This guy is right! This does work VERY well! However. Some 15ish years ago I bought a drill doctor, and once I learned the technique, that is far better than even my old man could ever do! It takes some skill ,and some learning, and this video will explain what the goal with the Drill Doc is better than the Drill Doc instructions! If you want back cut drills in "smaller" sizes, the drill doc can do it. This video is awesome! It does give all the info you need for doing it just right, but machine perfect is as good as brand new! You can get this with this video technique, but it's more luck than skill.
I was doing this technique at 6 years old! My Dad was n elevator installer in the local union! His days were spent drilling through 2 inch steel! He would critique my drills as his days went. I'm good!!!!!!!
until this C-19 fiasco there weren't a lot of kids working with and learning from dad. These days they think they arrived smarter than dad, like by osmosis or something.
@@palewriter1856 My granddad had some good remedies for when I displayed symptoms of acute knowitallitis. I remember trying for hours to get a left hand threaded nut off a tractor after telling him "I know" when he said "You know what the L stamped on the stud means?" I was 10 and he'd chuckle and walk away until I either hurt myself or had the good sense to crawl back and ask what I was doing wrong after just hours earlier proclaiming "I know". It didn't take a long time to realize he was the teacher and I was the student.
@@jimmartin7881 Well, at least you DID finally finger it out! Youngsters these days seem not to have ever gotten that "memo," so they continue in their "brilliance." I've often told my kids (and my grandkids): consider this: I've been your age. When you've been mine, come back and we'll talk.
@@jimmartin7881 No charge. So while I'm "on a roll," allow me to share what I harvested about 30 years ago at the Ca St Fair - on a T-shirt of a doof with a small herd of offspring (who undoubtedly bought the shirt for him): "The OLDER I get --- ...the BETTER I WAS!
Did tool sharpening for many years I know own some drill bit grinding machine but I really like the drill doctor machine it’s awesome easy to use and inexpensive works great on 3/4 bits and under
Used to build Tire molds for kelly springfield back in the day, after blue printing the vents had to be drilled through and a open brass bushing inserted into the inner wall of the aluminum cast, the cast rings were very thick 10" and better to withstand the pressure of the forced rubber, these all had to be drilled by hand, 3/32nd 12" bits spun with a straight handle 2600 rpm pneumatic drill, these bits were flexible to say the least and could not be used without hanging on to them, a light oil on where your fingerprints used to be was how you would start the cut, the back sides of these bits were not cut out stock, these bits when new would cut well, for about ten holes and then noticeable heat and powdered DUST instead of shavings would be noticeable and get worse from there, breaking a tip off in that mold really slows things down, re routing and banging aluminum rods into old holes and all that would need to be done. These bits were expensive and working on these high dollar molds was a great paying job but you had to be good at what you were doing to keep it. I experimented with my bits, half the job was being able to put a new tip on that bit QUICK, by taking that back side off ( I cut one side of my wheel to be able to take that inner back side off ) I could keep that bit shredding for 30 to 40 holes in a row,I mean like confetti flying out of that mold. By doing that one thing I would double my piece work ( twice as many molds per week with less defect) than was required. i am sure on some other metals and or things that a person would be working on other than this buttery thick aluminum it might not be helpful but there is GREAT reasons that a person might want to cu that backside out on a smaller bit. I have to use reading glasses to hit those marks now LOL we didn't get to have gauges in that shop. I'd like to get one just to see how my old eyes are doing.
Did that drill grab and twist your arm when it broke thru the Aluminum? Drill bits are sharpened differently taking into consideration material to be cut and speed of drill. After sharpening so many drill bits you won't need that angle tool. Dressing the wheel and keeping you drill bit cool while sharpening is extremely important. You know you are good when you can sharpen broken taps, a well dressed wheel is most important for a good cutting edge. once you know how a cutting edge works you can sharpen anything.
Drills are usually made of high speed steel ( HSS) so they don't soften if they get red hot. Cheaper carbon steel drills will soften with excess heat. Always a good skill to perfect, saves you time and money, for any machinist/diy it is a must have skill.
That is totally not true. You should never overheat your drillbits...always cool them down when sharpening...plus you can handle them better...Do you even metal?
Excellent technique! A couple of tidbits if I may. Dress the wheel and sharpen. Do not turn grinder off until you are done. If you turn the grinder off, the wheel is no longer in balance. Then you must redress. If possible, always use cutting oil, and drill press if you have. Use a center drill for starting the hole after center punching it. Many years drilling tool steel to build dies & fixtures. Nice video!
What most people don't understand is that a drill bit must be ground on each face as a helix. Just getting the cutting edge at the correct angle often will only produce a conical point. Only a helical point (think barber"s pole or screw thread) will present the leading cutting edge to the metal without metal behind it contacting (much). This is relief behind the edge. Some people lift the bit as it is ground, others roll it and increase pressure. Either way is possible. Not sure why the jig in the video was not referred to or used? Mostly this is one of the better videos, many are just wrong!
Not sure why not split pointing small bits? Forcing low grade, brittle high tensile bits in hardened steel and high tensile metals will increase bit chipping, as dry drilling also does with too much friction. I've always ground split points on every bit my eyesight can determine the point clearly, down to 3/32. But I only use toughest, highest drill grade bits. Using light pressure and good lube, split pointed bits stay sharp for many use cycles. Touch up on slightly dulled points goes quick and is well worth the time. If in a production shop, expense the best quality bits off on the piece price. Customers worth their salt appreciate good craftsmanship and pay the 'freight.' Just my two pennies. Good presentation. Thank you
Good video but somewhat confused? What part was taught by the old machinist? The ones I saw, mostly just eyeballed their sharpening. Granted that was just a few of the many there are. .
Those gages are a necessity. I also installed an articulated magnifying florescent light to really see grinding action. I think you're right about split point, better to drill pilot hole. Also how about video on grinding chipbreaker on cutting edge of large dia drills? Nice camera work!
The problem is the same with the cheap drill sharpening tools one can buy at many stores. If one sees the expensive drill sharpening tools one will see something different. One must grind two reliefs/clearances in the flank of a drill. One relief/clearance for the circular motion and another clearance for the vertical/longitudinal motion. One might get away with not having both clearances on soft material but on hard material one will burn up the drill for it will not dig into the material. One has to move the drill in two directions to get the right clearance. One needs a downward motion and a very little outward motion.
Good video. But you didn't adequately describe "twisting" the drill clockwise through the first face grind. Also as an earlier comment stated, it's GOOD to have a jar of water on your bench to quench or cool your bit between grinds.
From an old machinist- yes, dress flat, measure with a protractor. My tip: the last few passes of the drill on the wheel, start the grinder, then shut off. As it slows, make last grinding passes on each side. This makes a very slow change in the shape being ground so any inaccuracy is minimized and easily corrected. Do the same thing when thinning the web. I've ground thousands of drills in 40 years, and this is the only "trick" I stuck with. A lot of what I saw you do is nearly identical to what I do. Using the correct method just means lots of practice gets us drills that cut as well and last as long as off the shelf drills. Thin the web so that the remaining chisel edge is about 10% of the diameter of the drill to aid centering the cut and relieving walking and pressure. Some days all I do is sharpen tools by hand. Those are the days I drink less coffee, now that I am old and my hands shake more than they used to.
An Old guy taught me to use a couple of nuts held together (120 degrees so 2 degrees out ;0) ) If you are sharpening to within a couple of degrees you are usually good to go!
And old machinist showed me how to sharpen a drill bit about 30 years ago...I have never used a gauge. It's all by eye. When you're drilling, the moment you notice the drill cutting badly, stop and resharpen...it should be a 1 minute operation to sharpen a drill. If you use coolant your drill will stay sharper longer. Plus when sharpening don't let the drill bit heat up too much...always have water by your grinder. I never use oil as coolant...only water with soluble oil or the synthetic coolant.
What would you say is the smallest drill that you could sharpen by hand? What would you guess is the smallest someone learning could do? Thank you for the video.
It just needs to be flat not necessarilly parallel to the motor shaft. If the face is ground angularly like you might have when form grinding you have to adjust how you hold the cutting edge so your angle in relationship to the wheel is right.
Very expert I used to sharpen them this way for many years got out of practice got old. Now I got a bunch of drills that I paid good money for that are dull and broken. Time to get that diamond wheel on the old grinder and get to work!
Good video, did you dip the bit to cool it...didnt see that on your technique. Also I would suggest that you cover your lap top with a towel when you dress your wheels. Oh man that could be nasty.
yes you can, all that you need to do it to grind the bit off center. The more off center, that the tip of the bit is, the larger that the finished hole will be. Just make sure that if you are drilling holes for tapping, that you either sharpen your bits exactly, or use new bits. Good luck and have fun
a common fault when hand grinding drills is to back it off too much. To prevent a drill from "GRABBING" when drilling Brass - Lightly grind a slight flat on the cutting edges. Around 5 to 10 thou' @ 45 deg' will do you. (this can also be done with a hand stone or a diamond coated file if you don't have a grinding machine) You can buy a set of 8 Diamond coated files for under £10 GBP.
i learned by trying something sharpening drill,then drilling with it....try something else and drill again...see which one cuts better...how long they last,how much they grab,what hole looks like,how much burr you get...different materials need different angles ,relief
My dad taught me how to freehand sharpening never had a problem and saved a lot of money on bits. Now I use the Drill Doctor for many years and works fine for 50 bucks.
After 20 yrs. as as machinist I found that thinning the point with a thin rounded wheel gave a better cutting edge. Also by angling the cut at the point to leave enough web strength helps with harder metals. If done well it works with smaller drills.
I almost never post safety type comments but I can not resist pointing out how harmful breathing in that stone dust is. Please consider wearing some kind of protective mask when dressing the wheel. Unfortunately lung damage from this sort of thing only shows up years after it"s too late. Thanks for the video. I'm new to your channel but looking forward to it.
I appreciate this comment because I just spent the last 1.5 years watching a family member die a slow agonizing death while attached to a ventilator. Take care of your lungs people.
ferkemall Just to clarify, on a BENCH GRINDER (Tycially unless grinder is specifically set up to run it "wet") you do NOT run the GRINDING WHEEL /STONE "WET" like you would do when cutting CURB STONES...unless you want to lose your eyesight /teeth, be disfigured from the grinding wheel EXPLODING.
ferkemall Q: On cutting curb stones, is a bench grinder used? You are talking about 2 totally different machines.On a bench grinder you tyically run it DRY, the curb stone cutter running it WET. (Curb Stone cutter, part of tile cutter / Concrete cutter family, tyically having a connection to attach a water hose so it can be run WET.)
TheCharles007777777 I'm sorry, but that is very incorrect and is a very common mistake. You never turn the drill when sharpening. It needs to be a straight down motion
The drill would not necessarily be useless if the wheel was irregular and cut an irregular edge. It probably would be less effective, but not useless. You can make your own drill gauge with a piece of cardboard with a few marks along one edge to keep the point in the center.
Dont lift the bit while sharpening. There is enough rake if held at the correct angle. By lifting you are weakening the support of the cutting edge which also adds heat to the bit causing you to resharpen more often because of lost temper and or breakage. I was or am a machinist just now it's a hobby instead of a job. That grove in your tool rest will help you more than that fancy angle tool. The angle isn't quite as critical as both sides being equal. Keep in mind an end mill bit is pretty much a drill bit just different geometry. Same concept.
I checked out the Amazon link to get this General precision guide. There are many complaints that the General guide listed is no longer made in USA, and the quality of the guide has plummeted! I say this only as an FYI to make sure you are getting the guide endorsed in the video!
I'm a retired machinist and one of the things that should be pointed out to drill buying/sharpening neophytes is when you buy new drills be sure you are buying the 118 degree drills and not the 135 degree drills. ALL of the 135s will be ground with a split point they are engineered with a much thicker web that MUST be resharpened with the web-thinning split-point grind so they will drill without a ton of drill pressure. Where as with the 118s you have a choice of the standard grind point or a split point grind. Also you should not put a 135 degree point on a drill that has the 118 degree geometry and vice-versa don't put a 118 degree point on a 135 degree geometry drill. In the manufacturing process the flutes of the two different types of drills are ground to very different profiles and the degree-angles of the points are not interchangeable. For the past 15 or 20 years drills offered at retail stores seem to be the 135s. I believe that is a planned marketing ploy by retailers to sell drills that are more difficult for the public at large to resharpen. You can of course bet that they want to sell you a NEW drill for every 10 to 20 times you could successfully resharpen the drills you already own.
After 20 yrs. as as machinist I found that thinning the point with a thin rounded wheel gave a better cutting edge. Also by angling the cut at the point to leave enough web strength helps with harder metals. If done well it works with smaller drills.
A white stone: fine in other words is a beter stone to use as your not grinding away metal, you are only sharpening the metal. In fact a cheap 6 inch grinder with a dedicated white stone kept square is the solution to keeping drill bits sharp.
I have learned sharpning and drilling with used drills in metal work to deburr the drill aftet sharpning. The drill will stay sharp and last a lot longer for you
Sharpening cutting tools work best at with a 1650 grinder. A 3450 grinder simply produces excessive heat quickly. You never want to turn a drill blue. I have never seen a downside to slower speed.
you goto an autobody supply shop and ask for spotweld drillers. they work better with airpowerd drills that you can finesse a little better. they can grab a little bit so wear leather gloves. other than that its pretty easy.
Really sorry to disagree but web thinning is never done from the relief side of a twist drill. The flat face you grind on the relief side is totally useless. The relief angle is gained by the twisting of the drill up the wheel after grinding the cutting surface on the centre. By grinding a huge flat you reduce the drills stability, reduce ifs ability to conduct heat and increase the probability of chatter and instability when cutting. I’ve been in production engineering for 45 years and seen this process creep into DIY drill sharpening. Please understand this is a lazy mans way of producing the relief angle and is not an engineering process for correctly sharpening a drill. You need very little relief to produce clearance from the cutting edge. Web thinning is used by some engineers who think certain materials of hardness require less pressure to drill. I believe Webb thinning is only needed when you reach the later stages of a drills life when the Webb starts to thicken the farther you go up the shaft. It’s also a method to avoid web clearance drilling on certain processes where you only want to drill one whole using larger drill sizes and can’t be bothered to drill a first hole to clear the web thickness before drilling the final size hole.
Ok, professionals, time to have a meeting and produce a high quality video, explaining all the cuts a need for them. Otherwise, we, the mortals, won't be able to grow on this ancient skill.
I learned to sharpen bits at the age of 10. The neighbor that had a machine shop in his garage had lost the use of one eye and had lost his depth perception so my first job every morning I was there was to sharpen the bits that were dull from the day before..
I learned so much from that man that I still use today 59 years later.
@Siddharth Singh I'd say he is if your math is like mine and on top of that, that's 59 years of experience taught and ingrained at 10yrs old. Point out to me, any 10 year old kid today that would be willing to do anything "labour" like @Gray Beard. Don't worry, I won't stay and wait. I know the answer.
PS: I'm not that far behind Gray Beard.... LOL
I always went to older people for ANY experience in what they were doing.
Mister So and So building a house from the ground up? I'll be there.
Lesson learned from that job: I can do concrete from scratch using sand, water, and cement; I can raise and set plumb walls finding the crown of wood to make sure I have the best chance of a straight wall; I can fish wires for electrical through wall studs, same goes for plumbing; I can install asphalt shingles on any pitch roof.
Joe Blow has a farm and needs someone to operate the rakes before they harvest the hay? I'll be there.
Lesson learned here from that job: I can operate any standard farm tractors which also helped me in driving standard cars; I can milk a cow and take care of the rest that a farm requires each day. From shovelling cow shit to feeding chicks, I've done it all.
Speaking of done it all, also did some grave digging as I sometimes helped the local grave digger. I was about 14-15 LOL.
I made friends with older people that taught me woodworking, furniture building, welding, house building, and especially a good friend of mine that taught me electronics.
This is where you get REAL experience. What you read in books (in my days you went to libraries, no UA-cam stuff) gives you the general idea of how things will work. Hands on is where it really clicks. School shows you the basic idea, life experience teaches you lessons.
I'm sure you are the same type of person as I. Jack of all trades yet master of none. Doesn't stop people always asking you for your opinion on stuff they are building. ☺
Ironically I am uploading a video now from some of my experiences with a welder at the place I used to work. Learned a lot from him, but he was definitely an eccentric price, lol.
@@danyf3116 ,,,,,,,I grew up with knowlege from the industrial age.........When men were tuff............New generations of kids daydream with digital toys......To most ,,they are lost in the world of Mechanical common sense........[I'm 71]..............Fuk em...........
Unlike many of the machinists below, I sure appreciated this content, thank you sir!
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. It's perplexing to read all the negative comments below that only want to pick it apart. Too bad we can't all be perfect as they are. Please pay no attention to those guys. Lots of great content, keep up the good work.
Most people commenting negatively are probably good tradesmen with many years under their belt.
Notice that none of them are referring anyone to go see THEIR video, as if it's superior - because they've not made any!
Old toolmaker here, good information. I would suggest buying the right wheel and also a wheel dresser to straighten a worn wheel and resharpen the wheel. Kind of like riding a bike, it gets automatic with practice and you won’t need the gauge. It was common to freehand drills from 1/8”-3/4”. Pilot holes help as well.
That is how I was taught. It works. In one shop I worked in, they would have a coffee can full of drill bits of every size. All of them dull. Every other day, I was the guy who sharpened all those drill bits. You get real good at it after awhile.
very nice tips especially for the newcomer,,,we have to keep the hobby going,after us oldtimers fade away.
When I was an apprentice 21 years ago I was given a box of drills and I sat there all day sharpening on bench grinder till I got them all good
I did my apprenticeship in a very good, old school machine shop over 20 years ago. Learned all of that in the first year, before you actually learned how to use the machine we had to learn how to sharpen the tooling.
Testing of your drill should always be in a drill press, cutting the material you sharpened the drill for, and the hole size drilled should be tested with plug gauges for accuracy. Was part of our trade test. As was dressing and radiusing grinding wheels for crankshafts. And lathe and mill tooling.
Eu am 60 de ani și acum pot ascuți burghiului pentru materialul și cuțite pt.stung,rebotezat etc..fără ajutor .Din mănă poți cu mult drag de lucrul bine efectuat ,așa știam și ce fel de oțel este prin scânteia de la polizor.
In case you didn’t know the angle on the grinder stand that you use gives you the 118° that you want. If you just laid your drill bit on the stand inside of that V groove and ease did to your grinding stone with a slight twist when applying pressure you’ll get better results than trying to freehand it and match it up to a glorified protractor. Just want to make your life easier.
I noticed that too and was going to point it out if no one else did!
That's the way I learned it too.
When I was in high school 60 years ago, one of the things we had to make in machine shop was a drill bit gauge. I never knew you could buy them.
The old men I trained under showed me how to do this. They also showed me how to pick locks, split nuts with a torch, and work with focus, and a swiftness. I really went nuts with my own Lefty Sidearm swing on this drill sharpening. I've got several different techniques that give many options when sharpening all kinds of stuff. The old man I hunted with taught me how to turn a clip knife into a razor with a flat stone. If I don't pass some of it on, it will be lost. Talk to my Son in 20 years when I'm gone. I've been working with him for his whole life. When I'm gone, he will be the only one who learned this stuff from me. I call my evolution in metal work the Cambodian Builder. After a lifetime of practicing all of our building skills that are available at this current time , I conclude that the best way to do everything is "out of the dirt". Greatness is achieved by providing the same result without the proper equipment. Some day soon when the electric stops flowing, this world will need to learn how to do it by the Hand and Eye again. An art that is being lost at a very rapid rate.
I just saw this and see that it was posted in May 2018. In any case, I'm a DIY'er, and fabricate metal and wood things. I've found many useful things on doing things myself on UA-cam. One was how to spray paint a larger gas tank on my bike that turned out really nice. I also found out how to heat treat metal parts using a small charcoal grill, a window fan to force air into the bottom vent, and submerge the parts in used motor oil that left a blackened rust proof finish. Since the original seat didn't fit, I made a solo seat for myself, and heat treated the new gas tank mounts, the hinge for the seat and the cross bar for the springs under the rear of my seat. Thank you for the tip on how to sharpen drill bits.
I wish you had demo’d the bit putting hole in a piece of mild steel. Thanks for showing all that you did.
Very useful info. Thank you for sharing your insight by posting this video!
Great stuff - thank you!! Given what is happening to the supply chain and what drill bits cost WHEN you can get them, throwing them away when they get dull really is NOT an option.
It's actually a 59 degree as you showed in the first minute. The included angle is when considering both angles and you have to use the movable guide to get that angle.
You have demonstrated & explained very well ; professionals won’t have an issue to follow ur demo ; but new comers who don’t know the basics of twist drill application n cutting-edge importance to drill bits , will need a lot of practice to perfect their skills in Re grinding to restore the cutting edge
Thanks for a great and informative video Johnny B.
As an engineer I've been grinding drills freehand for over 50 years but I struggle to understand the purpose of grinding this extra relief after you've already ground the drill with front rake clearance? Seems to me that drilling a pilot hole first of the same diameter as the drill web thickness is a more sensible way to go in order to to lighten the drilling pressure and increase accuracy.
I've seen this, and tried it myself, and apart from it looking impressive, I can't say that it drills any easier or better than a standard ground drill.
i worked as toolmaker for 20yy and never drilled witho io t the pilot hole precision comes from proven techique wirhout pilothole the drillbit bends and overheat creating problems in the long run. if the shopmaster saw anyone drilling directly with a drillbit larger then 3/16 he would fire him as fast as you think that 2+2=4, i was the smaster the tools are v expencive and i show them that a 10 dollars drill performs as ab5 dollars if not used right.
Making chip-breaking bits is even more fun!
Thanks for using that dressing stick to dress the grinding wheel. Thats the key to offhand grinding.
I would like to congratulate you on being the first person I've seen to PROPERLY sharpen a drill. The only thing I would like to recommend is to finish with a little finer stone to get a finer finish.
My dad taught me to hand sharpen drills when I was about 12 years old, that was 60 years ago. I have sharpened them down to 1/16" and ground split points down to 1/8" and you can notice the difference in how they cut if you have a good sense of feel. I've got a lot of free drills over the years by asking for drills guys are going to throw away! Also, if you drill stainless, copper or brass you might want to get familiar with grinding a negative rake on your drills. The average guy isn't going to get into exotic metals, but for stainless a low rpm with a negative rake drill, good coolant and quite a bit of pressure you can drill stainless all day! In your softer metals like copper and brass a negative rake will keep it from grabbing and pulling into the work.
Like you I learned as a preteen. 60 years later I can sharpen a drill without the drill gauge to drill a hole less than ten thousandths oversize
steve gale ???????
We have quite a few 2” and 3” dia drills that are 3 and 4 fluted they are abit trickier to grind . Also a good tip if your drilling brass after grinding the drill as normal , then rub an oil stone along the sharp cutting edges to dull them otherwise the drill can grab . Good video .
If you sharp cutting edges from inside ,chip will not makes too long it will cut near the job .it is very usefull for production job like me here.I am drilling here tractor wheel shaft in 242 mm pcd and 17mm hss drill with 8 hole and after that second function is remer of 17.5mm . 450 pcs lot that means 450×8 holes. And drilling machine is mas vr2 radill drill.
Very nice followup. I'm glad you didn't get into adding a negative rake cutting point in the web when thinning. That would probably make too much of a challange for learning this skill. By the way when working in exotic metals like stainless, monel, inconel, etc. it is important to thin the web and add a negative point rake to releive pressure and cut with all drills. It increases tool life and keeps the drill cutting straight and narrow. Pecking and coolant in any material will increase tool life. Great job, I am suscribing. Your video with Justin was the first time I've seen you. 40 years of machining and I learn somthing all the time!
Thank you very much for the kind words, I appreciate it. I was fortunate in my machining career to not have to cut many exotic materials outside of some bronze alloys! Sooner or later I'll get the NC back together and make some chips!
when working in exotic metals like stainless, monel, inconel, it also helps to have a shallower angle 135-160 degrees to aid in cutting
28cruzin A%
You said it so much clearer than I did, Thanks.
Good video it's getting easier every time and I have a gauge 👍
Machinist ready reference handbook is a great book of knowledge if you want to learn.
I still have the one my dad gave me when I was barely a teenager, back in the 60s.
This guy is right! This does work VERY well! However. Some 15ish years ago I bought a drill doctor, and once I learned the technique, that is far better than even my old man could ever do! It takes some skill ,and some learning, and this video will explain what the goal with the Drill Doc is better than the Drill Doc instructions! If you want back cut drills in "smaller" sizes, the drill doc can do it. This video is awesome! It does give all the info you need for doing it just right, but machine perfect is as good as brand new! You can get this with this video technique, but it's more luck than skill.
I was doing this technique at 6 years old! My Dad was n elevator installer in the local union! His days were spent drilling through 2 inch steel! He would critique my drills as his days went. I'm good!!!!!!!
until this C-19 fiasco there weren't a lot of kids working with and learning from dad. These days they think they arrived smarter than dad, like by osmosis or something.
@@palewriter1856 My granddad had some good remedies for when I displayed symptoms of acute knowitallitis. I remember trying for hours to get a left hand threaded nut off a tractor after telling him "I know" when he said "You know what the L stamped on the stud means?" I was 10 and he'd chuckle and walk away until I either hurt myself or had the good sense to crawl back and ask what I was doing wrong after just hours earlier proclaiming "I know". It didn't take a long time to realize he was the teacher and I was the student.
@@jimmartin7881 Well, at least you DID finally finger it out! Youngsters these days seem not to have ever gotten that "memo," so they continue in their "brilliance." I've often told my kids (and my grandkids): consider this: I've been your age. When you've been mine, come back and we'll talk.
@@palewriter1856 Hahaa, that's great!! If you don't mind I shall add that to my middle aged man's arsenal of barbs. Stay safe.
@@jimmartin7881 No charge.
So while I'm "on a roll," allow me to share what I harvested about 30 years ago at the Ca St Fair - on a T-shirt of a doof with a small herd of offspring (who undoubtedly bought the shirt for him):
"The OLDER I get ---
...the BETTER I WAS!
How would it work if you “split the point” first, and then shaped the cutting edge?
Used this method for years on drills up to 3" works great once you understand the geometry of the drill.
Did tool sharpening for many years I know own some drill bit grinding machine but I really like the drill doctor machine it’s awesome easy to use and inexpensive works great on 3/4 bits and under
Used to build Tire molds for kelly springfield back in the day, after blue printing the vents had to be drilled through and a open brass bushing inserted into the inner wall of the aluminum cast, the cast rings were very thick 10" and better to withstand the pressure of the forced rubber, these all had to be drilled by hand, 3/32nd 12" bits spun with a straight handle 2600 rpm pneumatic drill, these bits were flexible to say the least and could not be used without hanging on to them, a light oil on where your fingerprints used to be was how you would start the cut, the back sides of these bits were not cut out stock, these bits when new would cut well, for about ten holes and then noticeable heat and powdered DUST instead of shavings would be noticeable and get worse from there, breaking a tip off in that mold really slows things down, re routing and banging aluminum rods into old holes and all that would need to be done. These bits were expensive and working on these high dollar molds was a great paying job but you had to be good at what you were doing to keep it. I experimented with my bits, half the job was being able to put a new tip on that bit QUICK, by taking that back side off ( I cut one side of my wheel to be able to take that inner back side off ) I could keep that bit shredding for 30 to 40 holes in a row,I mean like confetti flying out of that mold. By doing that one thing I would double my piece work ( twice as many molds per week with less defect) than was required.
i am sure on some other metals and or things that a person would be working on other than this buttery thick aluminum it might not be helpful but there is GREAT reasons that a person might want to cu that backside out on a smaller bit. I have to use reading glasses to hit those marks now LOL we didn't get to have gauges in that shop. I'd like to get one just to see how my old eyes are doing.
Wish you had pictures . I could understand you a lot better. It's that 1000 word thing.
@@daved3549 lol
good showing
Thank you very informative I learnt off an older person 60 years ago but he never explained why thanks again
if you don,t have a guage you can take 2 nuts and get the same angle of the gage and check em like that
Did that drill grab and twist your arm when it broke thru the Aluminum? Drill bits are sharpened differently taking into consideration material to be cut and speed of drill. After sharpening so many drill bits you won't need that angle tool. Dressing the wheel and keeping you drill bit cool while sharpening is extremely important. You know you are good when you can sharpen broken taps, a well dressed wheel is most important for a good cutting edge. once you know how a cutting edge works you can sharpen anything.
Great lesson on what should be a basic shop skill.
Thanks for sharing Brooks.
Thank you for the kind words, Wayne!
Wayne Crews Great channel right!?
The Good of the Land
Yes it is. I need to binge watch some older videos now.
Thanks for explaining the gauge. I bought one some time ago and never really knew how to use it.
You're welcome! If you look on the back of the guage, it also shows a few other things yp u can use it for!
Drills are usually made of high speed steel ( HSS) so they don't soften if they get red hot. Cheaper carbon steel drills will soften with excess heat.
Always a good skill to perfect, saves you time and money, for any machinist/diy it is a must have skill.
If you get them red hot they will become brittle
That is totally not true. You should never overheat your drillbits...always cool them down when sharpening...plus you can handle them better...Do you even metal?
I did learned from your video ...just now ... tks
Excellent technique! A couple of tidbits if I may.
Dress the wheel and sharpen. Do not turn grinder off until you are done. If you turn the grinder off, the wheel is no longer in balance. Then you must redress.
If possible, always use cutting oil, and drill press if you have. Use a center drill for starting the hole after center punching it. Many years drilling tool steel to build dies & fixtures.
Nice video!
I think that you should mention that different materials being drilled, require different angles. Good show
What most people don't understand is that a drill bit must be ground on each face as a helix. Just getting the cutting edge at the correct angle often will only produce a conical point. Only a helical point (think barber"s pole or screw thread) will present the leading cutting edge to the metal without metal behind it contacting (much). This is relief behind the edge. Some people lift the bit as it is ground, others roll it and increase pressure. Either way is possible. Not sure why the jig in the video was not referred to or used?
Mostly this is one of the better videos, many are just wrong!
Not sure why not split pointing small bits? Forcing low grade, brittle high tensile bits in hardened steel and high tensile metals will increase bit chipping, as dry drilling also does with too much friction.
I've always ground split points on every bit my eyesight can determine the point clearly, down to 3/32. But I only use toughest, highest drill grade bits.
Using light pressure and good lube, split pointed bits stay sharp for many use cycles.
Touch up on slightly dulled points goes quick and is well worth the time.
If in a production shop, expense the best quality bits off on the piece price. Customers worth their salt appreciate good craftsmanship and pay the 'freight.'
Just my two pennies.
Good presentation. Thank you
@malkooth always a smart ass....
anybody seen my glasses???
If you have never used a good thread cutting oil while drilling your metal you don't know what your missing. I know it is obvious to some but not all.
I use a flat belt sander. Grinding with a round wheel against a curved drill bit is difficult.
Not at all especially if you know what you're doing. I will take the bench grinder any day.
Am an English engineer 45 years in the game nice job it's all common sense just some folk haven't got it lol
Good video but somewhat confused? What part was taught by the old machinist? The ones I saw, mostly just eyeballed their sharpening. Granted that was just a few of the many there are. .
Those gages are a necessity. I also installed an articulated magnifying florescent light to really see grinding action. I think you're right about split point, better to drill pilot hole. Also how about video on grinding chipbreaker on cutting edge of large dia drills? Nice camera work!
The problem is the same with the cheap drill sharpening tools one can buy at many stores. If one sees the expensive drill sharpening tools one will see something different. One must grind two reliefs/clearances in the flank of a drill. One relief/clearance for the circular motion and another clearance for the vertical/longitudinal motion. One might get away with not having both clearances on soft material but on hard material one will burn up the drill for it will not dig into the material. One has to move the drill in two directions to get the right clearance. One needs a downward motion and a very little outward motion.
Good video. But you didn't adequately describe "twisting" the drill clockwise through the first face grind. Also as an earlier comment stated, it's GOOD to have a jar of water on your bench to quench or cool your bit between grinds.
From an old machinist- yes, dress flat, measure with a protractor. My tip: the last few passes of the drill on the wheel, start the grinder, then shut off. As it slows, make last grinding passes on each side. This makes a very slow change in the shape being ground so any inaccuracy is minimized and easily corrected. Do the same thing when thinning the web. I've ground thousands of drills in 40 years, and this is the only "trick" I stuck with. A lot of what I saw you do is nearly identical to what I do. Using the correct method just means lots of practice gets us drills that cut as well and last as long as off the shelf drills. Thin the web so that the remaining chisel edge is about 10% of the diameter of the drill to aid centering the cut and relieving walking and pressure. Some days all I do is sharpen tools by hand. Those are the days I drink less coffee, now that I am old and my hands shake more than they used to.
Splitting is to make it self centre especially on bigger bits
And always cool your bits while grinding
An Old guy taught me to use a couple of nuts held together (120 degrees so 2 degrees out ;0) ) If you are sharpening to within a couple of degrees you are usually good to go!
And old machinist showed me how to sharpen a drill bit about 30 years ago...I have never used a gauge. It's all by eye. When you're drilling, the moment you notice the drill cutting badly, stop and resharpen...it should be a 1 minute operation to sharpen a drill. If you use coolant your drill will stay sharper longer. Plus when sharpening don't let the drill bit heat up too much...always have water by your grinder. I never use oil as coolant...only water with soluble oil or the synthetic coolant.
What would you say is the smallest drill that you could sharpen by hand? What would you guess is the smallest someone learning could do? Thank you for the video.
ef2b smallest I’ve sharpened by hand is .75mm , largest is 4” dia.
Great video
great demo - thanks.
can a masonry bit be reshaped for a regular bit?
Got learned by an old hand that worked at Hanson back in the day. Get all my bits for little or no money from folks that tear them up.
Got learned? Do you even grammar?
My collection of drill bits is bigger than my collection of porn.
@@eduardosampoia5480 My grammer was a fine woman, TYVM.
When dressing the wheel, how do you ensure that the face of the wheel is parallel with the motor shaft? Or is that not important?
It just needs to be flat not necessarilly parallel to the motor shaft. If the face is ground angularly like you might have when form grinding you have to adjust how you hold the cutting edge so your angle in relationship to the wheel is right.
Very expert I used to sharpen them this way for many years got out of practice got old. Now I got a bunch of drills that I paid good money for that are dull and broken. Time to get that diamond wheel on the old grinder and get to work!
Good video, did you dip the bit to cool it...didnt see that on your technique. Also I would suggest that you cover your lap top with a towel when you dress your wheels. Oh man that could be nasty.
Great video - thank you !
you can make the bit drill a hole larger than the bit for clearance if you don't want to use a larger bit by making one side a little longer
In fact, you can use a drill bit as a boring bar on a lathe if you mount it in the tool post and cut using only one flute. I do it all the time.
yes you can, all that you need to do it to grind the bit off center. The more off center, that the tip of the bit is, the larger that the finished hole will be. Just make sure that if you are drilling holes for tapping, that you either sharpen your bits exactly, or use new bits. Good luck and have fun
Outstanding. Thank you kindly.
a common fault when hand grinding drills is to back it off too much.
To prevent a drill from "GRABBING" when drilling Brass - Lightly grind a slight flat on the cutting edges. Around 5 to 10 thou' @ 45 deg' will do you. (this can also be done with a hand stone or a diamond coated file if you don't have a grinding machine) You can buy a set of 8 Diamond coated files for under £10 GBP.
i learned by trying something sharpening drill,then drilling with it....try something else and drill again...see which one cuts better...how long they last,how much they grab,what hole looks like,how much burr you get...different materials need different angles ,relief
Thanks for sharing. Really helpful.
My dad taught me how to freehand sharpening never had a problem and saved a lot of money on bits. Now I use the Drill Doctor for many years and works fine for 50 bucks.
Drill Doctor 500X Unit UK 3-Pin Plug
£149.95
After 20 yrs. as as machinist I found that thinning the point with a thin rounded wheel gave a better cutting edge. Also by angling the cut at the point to leave enough web strength helps with harder metals. If done well it works with smaller drills.
What dressing tool was that?
I almost never post safety type comments but I can not resist pointing out how harmful breathing in that stone dust is. Please consider wearing some kind of protective mask when dressing the wheel. Unfortunately lung damage from this sort of thing only shows up years after it"s too late. Thanks for the video. I'm new to your channel but looking forward to it.
I appreciate this comment because I just spent the last 1.5 years watching a family member die a slow agonizing death while attached to a ventilator. Take care of your lungs people.
ferkemall Just to clarify, on a BENCH GRINDER (Tycially unless grinder is specifically set up to run it "wet") you do NOT run the GRINDING WHEEL /STONE "WET" like you would do when cutting CURB STONES...unless you want to lose your eyesight /teeth, be disfigured from the grinding wheel EXPLODING.
ferkemall Q: On cutting curb stones, is a bench grinder used?
You are talking about 2 totally different machines.On a bench grinder you tyically run it DRY, the curb stone cutter running it WET.
(Curb Stone cutter, part of tile cutter / Concrete cutter family, tyically having a connection to attach a water hose so it can be run WET.)
One of the reasons I quit machining!
@@WeAreNotAlone69 Wow, what make /grade was that wheel?
You are supposed to turn the drill as you are sharpening it, and don't let it change color because you will lose some the hardening.
TheCharles007777777 I'm sorry, but that is very incorrect and is a very common mistake. You never turn the drill when sharpening. It needs to be a straight down motion
rubbish. been sharpening drills for over 50 years and should always turn when sharpening as takes out the radius of the grinding wheel.
The drill would not necessarily be useless if the wheel was irregular and cut an irregular edge. It probably would be less effective, but not useless. You can make your own drill gauge with a piece of cardboard with a few marks along one edge to keep the point in the center.
So if i heard you right,pilot drilling should obviate the need for split points ?
Dont lift the bit while sharpening. There is enough rake if held at the correct angle. By lifting you are weakening the support of the cutting edge which also adds heat to the bit causing you to resharpen more often because of lost temper and or breakage. I was or am a machinist just now it's a hobby instead of a job. That grove in your tool rest will help you more than that fancy angle tool. The angle isn't quite as critical as both sides being equal. Keep in mind an end mill bit is pretty much a drill bit just different geometry. Same concept.
I was wondering about that groove in the rest, thanks.
if you take 2 nuts(3/4 bolts type) this will give your 118 degrees. we always break the point to take a lot of the drill pressure off.
I checked out the Amazon link to get this General precision guide. There are many complaints that the General guide listed is no longer made in USA, and the quality of the guide has plummeted!
I say this only as an FYI to make sure you are getting the guide endorsed in the video!
Well I always just sharpened them until they looked right!
I'm a retired machinist and one of the things that should be pointed out to drill buying/sharpening neophytes is when you buy new drills be sure you are buying the 118 degree drills and not the 135 degree drills. ALL of the 135s will be ground with a split point they are engineered with a much thicker web that MUST be resharpened with the web-thinning split-point grind so they will drill without a ton of drill pressure. Where as with the 118s you have a choice of the standard grind point or a split point grind.
Also you should not put a 135 degree point on a drill that has the 118 degree geometry and vice-versa don't put a 118 degree point on a 135 degree geometry drill. In the manufacturing process the flutes of the two different types of drills are ground to very different profiles and the degree-angles of the points are not interchangeable.
For the past 15 or 20 years drills offered at retail stores seem to be the 135s. I believe that is a planned marketing ploy by retailers to sell drills that are more difficult for the public at large to resharpen. You can of course bet that they want to sell you a NEW drill for every 10 to 20 times you could successfully resharpen the drills you already own.
John Robinson Thanks for that information!
That's good to know about the angles and flutes, thank you.
After 20 yrs. as as machinist I found that thinning the point with a thin rounded wheel gave a better cutting edge. Also by angling the cut at the point to leave enough web strength helps with harder metals. If done well it works with smaller drills.
Having 0 years as a machinist I know they are called drill bits not drills. A drill is what Spins the bits to drill a hole.
Apparently you missed the point of the video, no doubt it was caused by the use of a dull bit in your home lobotomy kit.
A white stone: fine in other words is a beter stone to use as your not grinding away metal, you are only sharpening the metal. In fact a cheap 6 inch grinder with a dedicated white stone kept square is the solution to keeping drill bits sharp.
Very informative,Thanks.
I have learned sharpning and drilling with used drills in metal work to deburr the drill aftet sharpning. The drill will stay sharp and last a lot longer for you
Like with a file?
@@wesman7837 no i use a smooth stone, but watch your angle or you will dull it again. Be safe snd go slow
First video thats shows the rigth way how to do it been machinist for 15 years
Sharpening cutting tools work best at with a 1650 grinder. A 3450 grinder simply produces excessive heat quickly. You never want to turn a drill blue. I have never seen a downside to slower speed.
Why that big water heater?
Is there a reason you repeat everything 3 or more times?
Yes, because I can.
Wow the grinding dust.
great video. both part 1 and 2. Hint - don't zoom cos it's never in focus.
Great lesson thankyou for sharing your knowledge 👍
So what did the old machinist show you ?
Nothing
there is some kind of interesting artifact at 6:51 i would really like to know what that is
How do you sharpen a drill bit for drilling out spot welds in automotive sheet metal? Im assuming a different angle is used?
No
you goto an autobody supply shop and ask for spotweld drillers. they work better with airpowerd drills that you can finesse a little better. they can grab a little bit so wear leather gloves. other than that its pretty easy.
Really sorry to disagree but web thinning is never done from the relief side
of a twist drill. The flat face you grind on the relief side is totally useless.
The relief angle is gained by the twisting of the drill up the wheel after
grinding the cutting surface on the centre. By grinding a huge flat you
reduce the drills stability, reduce ifs ability to conduct heat and increase
the probability of chatter and instability when cutting. I’ve been in
production engineering for 45 years and seen this process creep into
DIY drill sharpening. Please understand this is a lazy mans way of
producing the relief angle and is not an engineering process for
correctly sharpening a drill. You need very little relief to produce
clearance from the cutting edge. Web thinning is used by some
engineers who think certain materials of hardness require less
pressure to drill. I believe Webb thinning is only needed when
you reach the later stages of a drills life when the Webb starts to
thicken the farther you go up the shaft. It’s also a method to avoid
web clearance drilling on certain processes where you only want
to drill one whole using larger drill sizes and can’t be bothered
to drill a first hole to clear the web thickness before drilling
the final size hole.
Ok, professionals, time to have a meeting and produce a high quality video, explaining all the cuts a need for them. Otherwise, we, the mortals, won't be able to grow on this ancient skill.
Thumb up!
Cheers chief
I don't get it. You're just sharpening the tip of the bit. What about the rest of the twist?
You don't need the twist. you can even make a drill bit out of a concrete or masonry nail, a flat wood drill bit, no twist.
Satisfying chips
Good info an explanation, thank you! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱