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Installing a Bondtech DDX on the CR-10S Pro v2
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2022
- Today I am showing you how to upgrade your Creality CR-10S Pro v2 by installing the Bondtech DDX v3 Direct Drive System! I cover it all, from disassembly, installing the components, the software, firmware and some gotchas I ran into along the way. I hope this helps with your future upgrade!
Links & Resources
Sources for Bondtech DDX v3
Want to purchase the Bondtech DDX v3 and/or the Slice Engineering Copperhead hot end? Check out the Slice Webstore!
www.sliceengin...?p=SkdmIVou2
Firmware
Github
github.com/Ins...
Bondtech
www.bondtech.s...
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ok thank you i am just about to install the ddx onto my cr10s pro i printed out the spacer OD of m7 and length of m10 considering only 5mm is protruding i thought i should not need it as well thanks again great tutorial ))
Let me know how you like it. It’s made my CR-10S Pro much more reliable
Thanks very much for the video; it's nice to see the CR10-S_Pro get a bit of love occasionally. It's still a _very_ underrated and capable printer.
I've had my V1 for three years now, and I have a BL-Touch, along with an e3d V6 sitting in a box underneath it. They have been patiently waiting to replace their failed counterparts... for the last two and a half years! It's been a hugely solid printer, and only in January did I grab a resin jobbie to do the highly-detailed prints that it's unable to do.
I converted this v1 to a v2 using the BL upgrade kit from Tiny Machines. Thanks for your comment
what is the video you were following when doing pid changes?
Oh I don’t think I recorded it. I just used the Teaching Tech Calibration wiki and the Auto PID part. It’s super easy.
@@WhereNerdyisCool ah gotcha Thank you!
Did you change the motherboard in your reality V2 pro mine has a problem looking for something that's good
how come you have not mentioned the hot end spacer that also needs to be printed this is so the Capricorn tube stays central
I don’t recall needing it
I really liked your video, I have just completed my upgrade. I am having trouble finding where or how to change the parameter for now having the higher temp thermistor. Can you give some pointers? Thanks
Did you swap out to the Slice Thermosistor? I’m still using the stock one from Creality but upgraded to the Slice 50w heater. Slice support is very good, ask them?
I have the V2 and I'm upgrading to the bl touch now. I printed the one below the one you highlighted that's for the CR10S pro. Should I have printed the other one instead?
I have the mosquito and ddx combo on a cr10s pro.
Also, why did you not use the BLT_MC version?
That’s what Tiny Machines said to use.
I’d check to see how everything lined up on the mount you printed. When I’m doing, Bondtech Support is great
Got mine all figured out -- I had mine laying on its back and forgot to re-connect the ribbon cable! Hence it showed a bad thermistor reading .. duh! BUT, noticing my print fan is super loud, even louder now somehow! What did you end up replacing yours with? Any quieter?
I bought this but have t had a chance to install it
amzn.to/3Wcour0
@@WhereNerdyisCool thank you so much! I’ll give it a try!
Did you have your swap wires on the jumper harness?
To the extruder motor? No!
@@WhereNerdyisCool ok cause the instructions say to verify wire termination points on the jumper and I don’t want to mess anything up. Hoping to have this thing back up and running soon. Hoping I can just change settings in slicer to compensate for the new extruder setup. Running the stock heater and thermistor. Ddx and mosquito hotend
@justinbeehler188 this worked pretty much just like their instructions laid out. On another video, I put an LGX extruder / Slice Mosquito upgrade kit on a Newereal machine. I did have a lot of issues rearranging the motor wires / pins correctly to move the motor.
Just installed a Bondtech DDX v3 with Mosquito ... and first broke off a trimmer potentiometer on the board when adjusting the VREF .. :( Unfortunately didn't see this video first! But, since I have another CR-10S Pro V2, I swapped out the board and now the thermistor hookup on the board is faulty. Can't freakin' win :( :( :( :(
Oh no. And those boards are hard to get
did you have to change any settings in the slicer?
Yes. Being direct drive I’m using a retraction distance between of 0.8mm and the suggested retraction speed of 35mm. As always I’d suggest Teaching Tech’s Calibration wiki for esteps, slicer flow, PID and such.
Not gonna lie. Did this a while back and I absolutely hated it. The ddx desig is horrible in terms of clogs. Had to tear it apart multiple times to clear clogs which resulted in me breaking parts sometimes. Word of advice use a 1.75mm rod to clear your clogs rather than tearing it apart. Wish I knew that ahead of time.
Good to know. So far no clogs
did you try that on ender 3 too ?
I don’t have any Ender printers to try it on.